Re: Airbox Removal
Does it give you better performance, did you change something else, what a bout fuell consumption. On my former XJ900S I also had to change the jetting. Fred Schneider Holland Fuel tank removal is not necessary. Relocation of the intake air temp sensor the crankcase vent are required, as well as a filter for the crankcase vent. Be careful not to locate the crankcase vent where it will blow oil onto your back tire. I also fashioned a heat/moisture barrier going from the triple clamp to the bottom of the throttle bodies. You'll think you've got a tiger in your tank when you've finished, cause the growl is awesome! At a recent track day, several people commented enthusiastically about the sound. - Original Message - From: "Hugh Hamilton" [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "Multiple recipients of list" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 7:35 PM Subject: Airbox Removal I'm going to undertake removing the airbox and stock air filters and go with KN's. Looking at the service manual they say to remove the fuel tank before hand so I can remove the front fuel tank mount. Is that step really necessary. I've opened the airbox in the past to replace the OEM filters, but is removing the fuel tank and all that other crap necessary? Thanks Hugh
Re: Octane of Gas you use
I use 95 ( we don't have lower here in holland but I think it will be like your 87, (shall be the same like with inches and miles)) , no problems. But it is not very hot here. My Moto Guzzi Quota needs in the summer 98 but in the winter has no problems with 95. Fred Schneider GTS 1000 mega comete sidecar (96) HD WLA (42) Thruimph Speedtwin 5T (54) Moto Guzzi Quota (92) Honda Goldwing GL1000 (80) I have always used 93 octane gas in my GTS. Does anybody use something less (cheaper) with success ?
for the owner of the HD WLA
Last week someone wrote he had a WLA 45. This mail is for him. Mabey you can help me. I have one too but have troubles getting it running. The bike starts and then runs for 20 seconds and then dies suddenly. The carburator is not good I think. There is an adjustable high speed needle (home made) and I don't know the setting, Does is go in al the way or does there stay an opening at the bottom. The main fixet jet is not there but They put a small bolt in it. (I bored a 1,5 mm hole in it, before this he onley ran with full shoke (also for 20 seconds.) but then it got to much fuel. It is hard to start. I have to make 4 strokes with full choke and full trottle. The contact open and a strong kick. Most times it backfires from the carb and when I'm lucky it runs bad and fast for about 20 sec. The ignitiontiming is set according the book but it starts easier and runs better when I put it later. Can you help me with the fixed high speed needle and fixed jet setting. Thanks Fred Schneider Holland
Re: MRA photo request; rear brake gremlin
They were on my bike when I bought it. I think they are a part of the sidecar kit from side-bike.For the Goldwing of my wife I bought the lines in the local motorshop and bought also the connecting parts and assembled the lines (very simple). Then simley mount them. Goodridge makes the on demand. I know there are countrys you are not allowed to make them yourself. Fred - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 6:14 PM Subject: Re: MRA photo request; rear brake gremlin In your message dated: Fri, 08 Sep 2000 07:49:43 EDT, your pithy ruminations on Re: MRA photo request; rear brake gremlin were: = = = Could it be air comming trough the rubber hoses. The advise is to change = them after some years. I have teflon/steel lines and never have to bleed. Where did you get the steel lines? Were they pre-made for the GTS, or did you specify the lengths fitting types yourself? Mark = = Fred Schneider = = My rear brake loses pressure over about a two week span. I can find no = apparent leaks in the system and the level in the rear master cylinder = does = not dimininsh over that period. I get a small amount of air upon = bleeding = at = the rear caliper and this cures the problem for a couple fo weeks. = Mine does this also but it takes longer to require bleeding again usually = every couple months. I have had the HPU replaced under warranty to try and = cure the problem and two shops could not figure out the problem so I just = decided to live with it and flush out the system every couple months. = = Bob = = = -- Mark BergmanBiker, IATSE #1 Stagehand, Rock Climber, Unix mechanic '94 Yamaha GTS1000A [EMAIL PROTECTED] I want a newsgroup with a infinite S/N ratio! Now taking CFV on: rec.motorcycles.stagehands.pet-bird-owners.pinballers.unix-supporters 5+ So Far--Want to join? Check out: http://www.panix.com/~bergman
Injection and eath
I have read an article about altering the injection of a Moto Guzzi quota (my other bike). This is an older injection system (1992) but the GTS is from the same period. The writer knows a lot about car-injections and altered his quota to moderner standards. He did a lot more as discribed below but those things are quota specific. I don't know how the system is on a GTS but on a car the injectionpressure is regulated on the pressureregulator by the vacuum of the intakemanifold. The Quota has a fixed pressure. I see no vacuum hose on the GTS so maby here it is the same (or the ECU alters pressure) He connected the intakemanifolts to the regulator (it already had a connection what was not in use) Second he removed a seal of the regulator and under that was a regulatorscrew to alter the pressure. I don't know if the GTS has a regultor because I have no book. Until now I onley experimented with the TPS and ECU screws and mine runs fine now. But I think it is worth the trouble looking for the above mentioned because this are easy and cheap things to try. But there are plenty of people on this list who realy know what they are talking about. I'm just an amateur without any technical education. Fred Schneider About the earthconnection problems. When a wire is broken it is possible to measure no resistance because there is still contact. But when there is a heavy current over it the resistance can become to high and the voltage drops. The second thing is that you measure no resistance and then you begin th fold or strech the wire and suddenly on a point there becomes a resistance. So first it seemed the wire is good. You see that sometimes on Gituarcables. You play and when you move the cable it distorts but when you messure the cable it's OK. Most times it has an internal fracture.
Re: gear (not for the archives--fluff)
I, myself alway use protective clothing and in general don't think it should be a law to wear it because I think the freedom we have becomes less and less. If every risk is arranged by law, in a couple off years we are not allowed to sport, drive or come outside anymore. But on the other hand the fools riding without the right clothing are making a lot of costs when it goes wrong and the dutch people have to pay for that. Last summer I spoke a guy wearing onley a helmet and swimtrousers and he said I: I know it's dangerous but today I drive carefull. I said: Yeah that's true,later you put on you protective gear because you know then you're gonna smash your bike into a car. Fred Schneider In the Netherlands there's talk about legislation about wearing protective clothing on a bike. This protection will have to be approved bij some standard, (iso). Reading the last few stories on this subject, I feel our government is willing to do the right thing. If people are stupid enough to ride without protective gear, the law might help them. This summe I saw several bright guys riding at very high speeds (+ 200km/h) in just a pair of shorts, a T-shirt and open slippers.Penalties are to be quite severe.
Re: MRA photo request; rear brake gremlin
Could it be air comming trough the rubber hoses. The advise is to change them after some years. I have teflon/steel lines and never have to bleed. Fred Schneider My rear brake loses pressure over about a two week span. I can find no apparent leaks in the system and the level in the rear master cylinder does not dimininsh over that period. I get a small amount of air upon bleeding at the rear caliper and this cures the problem for a couple fo weeks. Mine does this also but it takes longer to require bleeding again usually every couple months. I have had the HPU replaced under warranty to try and cure the problem and two shops could not figure out the problem so I just decided to live with it and flush out the system every couple months. Bob
Re: Medic !!!!
What is an FI and what are gauges? Excuse me for my not knowing Humble Fred It seems that there really are two RPM ranges @ which most GTSs surge, around 2,500 RPM around 4,500RPM. I can just about adjust the surge out of one of two ranges but not both. Glad to hear Fred that your adjustment has been successful, my next step is to balance the FI with gaugesif only time was abundantly available. George looking for time in all the wrong places =
Re: Medic !!!!
Fred, When you say you "first put it on at 0.625V" what was the bike doing Rpm's etc? and how were you measuring this voltage? 1000 RPM, Measuring at the ECU (third ,top connectorhole from the small connector) Knowing that my Bike sat for 2 years in a dealers, I cannot be sure that the TPS was set up correctly to start with. Is there "Factory setting I can work to? Don't know (mine was at 11 o'clock and 0,650V) But most times european bikes have different setting because of the climate and hight) But the 1 O'clock setting I read in a motormogazine test. Fred Schneider Holland
Re: Medic !!!!
Hi I once had a Goldwing, It was onley running strong with the lights on. As soon as I switched the lights off (we can do that in europe) the bike lost a lot of power. I measured everything, excanged components and could not find a thing. I brought the bike to two shops and they couldn't find a thing. Then I brought it to a company specialised in rerpairing and installing (and rewirering) car electronics and they found a bad earth connection (half broken wire) Problem solved. Second case: A BMW R100GS. The bike was not running normal and the blinkers worked well, later we changed the sparkplugcaps and then the bike run even better but the blinkers then stopped working. We tried everything but no solution to find. Then the same company found out the sparkplugcaps where without resistance and therefor sending out signals witch jammed the electronics from the blinkers. (as far as i understood his theory) You see, the problem is not always what you think. Good luck finding Fred Schneider - Original Message - From: Steve Baglien [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 12:24 PM Subject: Re: Medic paramithas wrote: Also, did you check the sensor coming out the cat before you ordered the TPS? It could also be a culprit. last time I check my cats, they had no electronics sticking out of them. What are you talking about? Bottom line - the sensor is on order and is due to arrive. The sensor when adjusted would give the discontinuity error - I check the continuity of the power supply and the return and they were good. So, when the TPS arrives, I'm going to give it a shot to see if it clears up the problem - I've tested the bike every way I know how (on and off) for a couple of months now and am getting no closer to the cause.
Re: Medic !!!!
This weekend I experimented with the TPS. I first put it on 0.625 V and put the ECU pots at 1 o'clock. The bike surged now not at low RPM's any more but a little at 3-400 RPM. Not a problem but I wanted better. Now I put the TPS at 0,644 and the surging is now completly gone. I just did a riding course and no surging at all. I also made a pemanent vacuumconnection. The hoses end above the airfilter so I don't have to remove the tank anymore to synchronise. Fred Schneider Holland I think he turned the TPS the wrong direction. George and I found if you followed the instructions from Robert Wilson's site, the bike is almost unridable. Rotating the TPS counter clockwise improves the low RPM surge. If you are in question, crank it all the counter clock wise, or anti clock wise if you are in Europe, and see if it rides better.
Re: spam: Winter is coming. Was: Heated Vest or 'stich + layers
Sorry Mike don't get pissed Telling some one that it is dangerous to be tied to a bike is one thing but look at your facts before you try to convince them to not use heated gear and to use hand covers. we even developed a new plug that reduces the extraction force to about 2 pounds and yet gives a better contact than the current plug. Now if you say that you have heard of people pulling there bike over using the plug on heated clothing, it was not one of our products! You completely misunderstood me. I never told it is dangerous, becouse I know it isn't. I onley don't like it becouse of reasons you don't know because you don't know how I use my bike. I drive a GTS with Side-Bike Megacomete (French) and I drive it every day for work. I have a radio/intercom in it with is connected to my helmet. I don't use this on daily basis too. I find it to much work to connect and forget it when I get of for tanking or opening the gates or let my collega in and out of the side car, (have to put my gloves out to connect). The Mofs work for me. The opening is big I can't get stuck and they are connected with velcro. I can rip them of with no power at all. The thin gloves let enough warmt go in the glove. As for heated hand grips, since the outside of the hands are getting the exposure, I have never understood the love affair people have with heated grips. Don't forget the steer is as cold as the outside temp so you cool hands from out and inside. I agree heatgrips alone are just for emergency heating but in that case handy to have. If I onley drove long distance I would buy electrical gloves (although I don't like the fitting of the ones I tried, becouse i felt the resitantwires) I am buy a goretex jack every two years (daynese) and then after two years of everyday use it starts to leak. The gloves idem. I drive in my jeans in sommer (not on one of my solobikes, then I wear Leather and I don't drink or smoke, but very many (most?) dutch people don't wear protective clothing)) and wear a thermotrousers and Down inner jacket in winter. Fred Schneider
Re: records..(fluff)
Ia far as I know you then float feet down and because the hat is above your mouth you also drown. We use the shoes to float up-right. as you noticed they look like little boats. Kid learn here at school how to keep theire balance. Fred Schneider Holland I never understood the thing about wooden shoes. When the dike breaks, you'll float feet up! Wouldn't wooden hats make more sense?
Re: It's a GTS world record!!
Correct, in that case you're right - Original Message - From: Michael Weaver [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 7:44 PM Subject: Re: It's a GTS world record!! On Fri, 18 Aug 2000, fred schneider wrote: Right and wrong, no clutch alway use the rearbrake while turning that way Learned this on several riding courses. (The rolling to the inside does not work on my GTS , I suspect the side-car to be the reason but I'm not sure. But jamming the rearbrake and a sharp turn left makes very short turns) Can't use the rear brake if you are going at speeds below the stall speed of the motor. Have to feather the clutch to stop it from stalling (and dumping you over). Rear brake is great for higher speed turns. Mike -- Michael Weaver (706)542-6468 [EMAIL PROTECTED] UCNS Network Specialist LAN Support Group University of Georgia, Athens Ga. )O( Public PGP key: http://www.arches.uga.edu/~weaver/pgp.html
Re: It's a GTS world record!!
Just leee the bike. It'll turn much tighter than its steering locks. Stand on the pegs and roll the bike to the inside while feathering the clutch to keep it upright. Right and wrong, no clutch alway use the rearbrake while turning that way Learned this on several riding courses. (The rolling to the inside does not work on my GTS , I suspect the side-car to be the reason but I'm not sure. But jamming the rearbrake and a sharp turn left makes very short turns) Fred Schneider
Re: brake lines
Sorry to interupt, In holland you can buy them in parts and make the line yourself on the right length. As far as I know Goodridge (in the town: Leiden I think) makes them on order. In germany you're not allowed to make and place the lines yourself. It's a teflon hose with SS outer. Fred Schneider - Original Message - From: Kevin Harrington [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2000 5:37 AM Subject: Re: brake lines --- Michel Bijl [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Chuck, According to the manual, brake lines should be replaced every 2 years or whenever they are cracked or worn out. Should you decide to replace them, It might be an idea to replace them with steel covered lines. To the best of my knowledge, these steel covered lines will last longer than your bike. Michel Bijl '94 GTS The Netherlands Michel, These s.s. covered brake lines--are you aware of a specific brand or are these custom? If pre-manufactured, are these the ones from Germany? Also, do you know if they replace the entire run of the brakelines or just the rubber hose parts? Sorry for all the questions, just curious as I think these hoses may be more resistant to moisture intrusion. Thanks, Fl Kev __ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/
Re: Yamaha's warranty VS Normal wear.
I also think it is most likely to be the seals to be worn. My GL1100 (1980) used a lot of oil but the valves and guides were still OK (after 120.000 KM) but the seals were very hard and broke when I was removing them. My guzzi didn't use oil after 116.000 MILES. I don't know enough about petrol but I suspect the modern unleaded fuels to harden the rubber to fast. A friend of mine works for a gas/petrol company and says there are big differences between the brands and between the USA and Europe. I Once cleaned brake rubbers with petrol and they became about the double size. And after they changed here to unleaded fuel my BMW began to use more fuel and within two months the carburatorrubbers were gone. They just desintagrated. That's also I think the reason not everybody suffers the same problems. Not everyone uses the same fuel. If the guides realy are worn I think you should use better oil (In europe we have oil made specialy for bikes) or warm your bike up carefully before riding fast. Fred Schneider - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 4:14 AM Subject: Re: Yamaha's warranty VS "Normal" wear. In a message dated 8/9/2000 5:53:17 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: So according to them, we have to open the engine every 20,000 miles Talk about reliability. For the first time I am considering selling my GTS, one thing is for sure, it's my last Yamaha. Richard; There is a way to replace the seals without taking off the head. You just need to find a mechanic willing to do it this way. Get the cylinder your working on to TDC so the intake and exhaust valves are closed and use an attachment for checking compression leak down and attach to a compressor and pressurize the cylinder so the valves wont drop when you remove and replace the seals. Of course you have already removed the cams and other related components to get access to the keepers, springs and seals. The Yamaha valve guides are very hard and tough and rarely wear. It is usually the valve that wears before the guide. Bob
Re: Hi/low bars (was Re: GTS handlebars needed)
I have tried the stock bars and it was terrible. I had no control and my neck, back and wrists hurt after 30 minutes. I now have a sort of heli steer witch is a product of side-bike (france, I have a GTS with side-bike megacomete see www.side-bike.de and a picture of the bars http://home.planet.nl/~dreuning/) I am 1.70 m long (5 foot 5?)and the side-bike steer works well for me. I still have to reach for the steer a bit so my body leans a bit over to the front and that's good. No pain in the underback. Fred Schneider Holland OK, so Fred agrees with me to some degree. Anyone else LIKE the stock GTS arrangement? Phil
Re: manual
Ik woon in rosmalen bij Den Bosch maar ik wil het wel komen halen en dan stuur of breng ik het wel weer terug na het copieren Kan ik je bellen om iets af te spreken. Fred, - Original Message - From: Korterik, M.P. - SPLXO [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 10:55 AM Subject: RE: manual Fred als je in de omgeving van Amsterdam woont of er regelmatig in de buurt komt kun je mij manual wel lenen en zie ik het wel weer terug. Hoor / lees van je, vr.gr. Michel -- From: fred schneider[SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Reply To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 8:54 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: manual Hoi michel, Zelfs bij Yamaha NL zeggen ze dat er geen manual is. Ik doe normaal alle onderhoud aan mijn motoren zelf omdat ik niet zo'n groot vertrouwen in dealers heb (doen altijd maar de helft) en omdat ik het leuk vindt. Zou jij mij aan een copie of het adres van de leverancier kunnen helpen. wil er graag voor betalen. Wil nu zelf de injectie gaan afstellen maar ik weet nu niet eens waar die zit. Fred ** This e-mail and any attachment may contain confidential and privileged material intended for the addressee only. If you are not the addressee, you are notified that no part of the e-mail or any attachment may be disclosed, copied or distributed, and that any other action related to this e-mail or attachment is strictly prohibited, and may be unlawful. If you have received this e-mail by error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail, and delete this message. Koninklijke Luchtvaart Maatschappij NV (KLM), its subsidiaries and/or its employees shall not be liable for the incorrect or incomplete transmission of this e-mail or any attachments, nor responsible for any delay in receipt. **
Re: Big bore kit
A dutch mechanic/tuner told me to mount the carburators, camshafts and exhoustsystem of an FZR 1000 should give 145 HP Fred Schneider Holland - Original Message - From: Crisler, Jon [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 10:45 PM Subject: RE: Big bore kit This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --_=_NextPart_001_01BFFBF8.CC8534AA Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I too am looking for ways to make more power on the GTS. If anybody has any suggestions, please let me know (other than getting another bike !) -Original Message- From: Lanouette, Richard [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 3:52 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Big bore kit Does anyone have any experience/ opinion with installing a big bore kit on a GTS ? Thanks, Richard --_=_NextPart_001_01BFFBF8.CC8534AA Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN" HTML HEAD META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1" META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version = 5.5.2650.12" TITLERE: Big bore kit/TITLE /HEAD BODY PFONT SIZE=3D2I too am looking for ways to make more power on the = GTS.nbsp; If anybody has any suggestions, please let me know (other = than getting another bike !)/FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2-Original Message-/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2From: Lanouette, Richard [A = HREF=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"mailto:Richard.Lanouett= [EMAIL PROTECTED]/A]/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 3:52 PM/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2To: Multiple recipients of list/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Subject: Big bore kit/FONT /P BR BR PFONT SIZE=3D2Does anyone have any experience/ opinionnbsp; with = installing a big bore kit on/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2a GTS ?/FONT /P PFONT SIZE=3D2Thanks,/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Richardnbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; = /FONT /P /BODY /HTML --_=_NextPart_001_01BFFBF8.CC8534AA--
Re: Big bore kit
I like mine GTS and don't need more power, it's already difficult enough to handel in the wet(rain) because of the 185/50-14 tire. I'm thinking about mounting the smaller sprocket of the FZR 750. But tat's not important. About the 145HP FZR, mabey I'm wrong about the HP number but I often hear that the bikes in the USA are less powerfull then the fullpower versions here. (german bikes also often have less power because of taxes.) But ther are also different ways of measuring HP's.Italians always give higher numbers. It depents off measuring with genarators and gearboxes or without and that sort of things. A GTS here has 100 Din PK (should be 100 HP) Fred Schneider Holland - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 5:20 PM Subject: Re: Big bore kit On Wed, 2 Aug 2000, fred schneider wrote: A dutch mechanic/tuner told me to mount the carburators, camshafts and exhoustsystem of an FZR 1000 should give 145 HP I think this mechanic is a bit optimistic. I had an FZR 1000 for a while, and it was something like 125-127 hp. Changing those components on a GTS would give you an FZR motor essentially, and any other minor differences won't give you 145 hp. Installing a mill from a Hyabusa will though. :) Phil
manual
Hoi michel, Zelfs bij Yamaha NL zeggen ze dat er geen manual is. Ik doe normaal alle onderhoud aan mijn motoren zelf omdat ik niet zo'n groot vertrouwen in dealers heb (doen altijd maar de helft) en omdat ik het leuk vindt. Zou jij mij aan een copie of het adres van de leverancier kunnen helpen. wil er graag voor betalen. Wil nu zelf de injectie gaan afstellen maar ik weet nu niet eens waar die zit. Fred
Re: ECU Failure (was Atlanta)
Hi I'm Fred Schneider from Holland and I'm new on this list. I have a 1996 GTS with Sidebike Mega-comete. I have two problems and that are the very fine vibrating what becomes worse and the fuelconsumption that does the same (not to speak off the on-off gas at low RPM's) but for the rest a great bike. I assume the problem is to solve with some adjusting of the injection but that is the biggest problem. Yamaha holland does not sell a workshop manual and I don't trust shop mechanics. Fred Schneider GTS1000/GL1100/Quota/BMWF650S/Triumph speedtwin(1954) - Original Message - From: paramithas [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 4:05 AM Subject: Re: ECU Failure (was Atlanta) Steve, you are welcome to come up to my place but my weekends are next to impossible 'till August 27, since I will be out of town for the most part of August. I still think you ought to call me some evening this week, we may be able to isolate the problem over the phone. Your condition very much sounds like you may be activating via faulty electronics and/or other intermittent failure your GTS's rev limiter. So, make sure it's not a wiring harness/connector that's causing the break down and further look into the rev limiter's operation in the manual (and corresponding ECU failure codes). Secondly, measure at the TPS the voltages at different RPMs (digital voltmeter and a needle at the top of the connector does the job), it's a very straight forward thing to record voltage values @ different RPMs for comparison. BTW have you set the ECU pots to the 1:00 o' clock position? This would be a good starting point for your measurements if we were to compare readings. Thirdly, remove the IPS sensor from the air box make sure it works properly. If this thing is an airflow sensor and I've never done this so I am just guessing, you can create a stationary test set by using a fan, hair dryer or what ever else to try and simulate as close to real life conditions as possible. I assume you can at least measure the IPS's changing resistance and voltage output, (it's nothing more than a transducer, may even be replaceable with a variable resistor for testing purposes after you've established max/min values). BTW you could also connect your volt meter leads semi-permanently to the IPS and ride the GTS like that 'till you isolate the failure condition. Also, check both sensor connectors/wires for burned marks or broken wire strands within their insulation, your failure may be related to heat causing an imperfect component to fail. I would not recommend you replacing the ECU or the sensors yet since the failure may not be passive thus inducing the same failure to the new parts due to high voltage, reverse polarity, etc. You may even want to go looking into the ECU since it can very well be a partially seated component on the PC board (the intermittence of your condition points to such failure). Has anyone out there opened the ECU box for more precise guidance for doing this? One last thing and I know this sounds simplistic but for the record check your battery for soundability and for tight connections, including your voltage regulator to make sure it's not overjuicing the system. Not much else I can think off right now. George scratching his back side NetZero Free Internet Access and Email_ Download Now http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633 ___
