FW: FW: Oil
This is a response from my dealer on George's question concerning the Amsoil's engine flush. Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD == Don't use the engine flush in engines with wet clutch. Just using the synthetic will clean stuff out, though it will take a bit longer.
RE: Oil
I've sent it to my dealer. I'm sure he'll have an answer for you. ASAP. Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD Good job Henry, great info to pass on. Now for my question, Amsoil makes an engine flush product which supposedly removes varnish and other dyno crap
Warranty, was Re: My oil/vibration issue
Guys lets get ahold of ourselves here Yamaha did not say they would not honor a warranty if synthetic oil is used. As someone pointed out, there is nothing saying not to use synthetics. The dealer said Yamaha said that.. This is a key difference. I submit that there is a breakdown in communication here. The warranty does not have to be honored if the cause of the failure can be attributed to the oil. Is that the case here? Probably not. As so many have cited, the probability of one cylinder glazing and three not glazing is low. What is high probability in this case is human error in reassembly. As far as oil related failures go, generally it is a lack thereof oil causing the failure, or infrequent oil changes. Maintenance issues that the manufacturer can not control. They suggest proper maintenance and that is all they can do. Further more, remember that this is not Yamaha's warranty. Kelly is into his extended warranty, and it is an aftermarket warranty, not a YAMAHA extended warranty. Attempt to maintain some objectivity here, and not jump to the conclusion that Yamaha is at fault here. They are not. Kelly may have a problem with the dealer or the extended warranty company, but that is the extent of it. Ironically, the reason Kelly had to have his bike in the shop in the first place is a sticking starter clutch. This failure is often associated with people that run synthetic oil and do not change it as frequently as people change petroleum oils. Flame as you will, more times than not, when this failure occurs, there is synthetic oil in the engine.
Fluff To KevinH was Re: Oil
Easy big boy, I was confident it was presented to us as it was written.
My oil/vibration issue
Thanks to all who've sent me info about their oil consumption, and to those who've sent comments of things I should be aware of, etc. Current situation: They did a leak-down test on the motor, found that one cyl is 150 pounds, whereas the others are 200. They think there's some glazing which is causing both the compression and oil rings to not make good contact, therefore oil will burn. I reiterated that it didn't do it before they tore the motor apart, and that common sense and logic dictate that they're grasping at straws. (and they also said that Yamaha wouldn't honor a factory warranty if fully-synthetic oil was used, but this is a Western Service warranty) What they want to do now is to drain the oil, shoot a LOT of contact cleaner into the cylinders, and rotate the engine by hand to break the glazing. Then flush it out with oil a few times. I asked how this would affect the bearings, and the owner didn't feel it'd hurt them. It's not a technique I've ever heard of. Does this raise any red flags? Should I call them and tell them NOT to do this? Will it shorten the life of the bearings or anything else? Thanks, -K == Kelly Cash Direct: 408-845-5762 Sr. Systems Engineer Main: 408-845-5700 Solid Data Systems FAX: 408-727-5496 2945 Oakmead Village Court [EMAIL PROTECTED] Santa Clara, CA 95051 www.soliddata.com ==
RE: My oil/vibration issue
Bullshit! This is highly illegal! Full synthetic motor oil exceeds ALL specifications as dictated in the owners manual. There is NOTHING in the manual about NOT USING synthetics, and they cannot require the exclusive use of Yamaha ONLY products. They're wrong, you are right. They're grasping at straws guessing that the ONE cylinder glazed. Why would ONE cylinder glaze and NOT the others. Based upon pure likelyhood, it is MUCH MORE likely that they screwed up a ring during reassembly than a single cylinder glazed AFTER RE-ASSEMBLY, AFTER number miles had already been put on the bike! This is insanity! Bottom line is that they don't want to have to tear down the engine again and they'll try everything else first. Meanwhile, contact cleaner makes its way into the engine case causing residual damage that may not rear it's ugly head for thousands of miles. By then, it's impossible to lay blame upon them. Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.geocities.com/~raddboy Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha GTS1000 -Original Message- From: Kelly Cash [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 1:08 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: My oil/vibration issue (and they also said that Yamaha wouldn't honor a factory warranty if fully-synthetic oil was used, but this is a Western Service warranty) == Kelly Cash Direct: 408-845-5762 Sr. Systems Engineer Main: 408-845-5700 Solid Data Systems FAX: 408-727-5496 2945 Oakmead Village Court [EMAIL PROTECTED] Santa Clara, CA 95051 www.soliddata.com ==
Re: My oil/vibration issue
Kelly, my nephew is a BMW mechanic and he has told me several stories about engines coming in that use oil and that have uneven compression between cylinders. He said they put some sort of cleaner made by GM into the injector system until the engine dies. Then they fill the cylinders with this stuff via the spark plug holes and let it sit for a day . He claims the results are often miraculous. The oil consumption drops and the compression equals out . He said he had to see it to believe it. This works mostly on motors that have glazed cylinder walls or that are choked with carbon. Sincerely, Alan Terrain
RE: My oil/vibration issue
I reiterated that it didn't do it before they tore the motor apart, and that common sense and logic dictate that they're grasping at straws. (and they also said that Yamaha wouldn't honor a factory warranty if fully-synthetic oil was used, but this is a Western Service warranty) Kelly, I think you ought to make them show you in the warranty where it says that Yamaha won't cover damage if full synthetic oil is used. If it doesn't say anything specific, perhaps you should start murmuring about seeing your lawyer, and asking to talk to Yamaha's zone rep. You might also want to call YMC's customer service department and find out who your zone rep is. Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD
Re: My oil/vibration issue
Kelly; I find it hard to believe that spraying the cylinder walls with contact cleaner will make the rings seat. If it was oil caused why did the other three seat? I think they screwed up and are afraid that they will be told that it is their problem. Did they do a leak down test to determine if the problem is valve or rings? Bob
RE: My oil/vibration issue
I am sure that the maker of synthetic will gladly supply lawyers for your claim against Yamaha and or your dealer. Richard -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Hawkins, Kevin Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 10:43 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: RE: My oil/vibration issue Bullshit! This is highly illegal! Full synthetic motor oil exceeds ALL specifications as dictated in the owners manual. There is NOTHING in the manual about NOT USING synthetics, and they cannot require the exclusive use of Yamaha ONLY products. They're wrong, you are right. They're grasping at straws guessing that the ONE cylinder glazed. Why would ONE cylinder glaze and NOT the others. Based upon pure likelyhood, it is MUCH MORE likely that they screwed up a ring during reassembly than a single cylinder glazed AFTER RE-ASSEMBLY, AFTER number miles had already been put on the bike! This is insanity! Bottom line is that they don't want to have to tear down the engine again and they'll try everything else first. Meanwhile, contact cleaner makes its way into the engine case causing residual damage that may not rear it's ugly head for thousands of miles. By then, it's impossible to lay blame upon them. Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.geocities.com/~raddboy Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha GTS1000 -Original Message- From: Kelly Cash [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 1:08 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: My oil/vibration issue (and they also said that Yamaha wouldn't honor a factory warranty if fully-synthetic oil was used, but this is a Western Service warranty) == Kelly Cash Direct: 408-845-5762 Sr. Systems Engineer Main: 408-845-5700 Solid Data Systems FAX: 408-727-5496 2945 Oakmead Village Court [EMAIL PROTECTED] Santa Clara, CA 95051 www.soliddata.com ==
Re: Oil
To play the devil's advocate here. The article is lacking details. It talks of extreme heat. This is an ambiguous term. What are its parameters of extreme? Relative to believable temperatures achieved in a stock engine? In our engine? It doesn't say. I do not believe anyone questions whether synthetics are better lubricants. I believe most people question the necessity and expense in our application. Further, it said the Honda oils performed poorly. Again, this is relative. As most of you already knew, I am no Honda fan, so it is not them I am defending. However, they may have performed poorly in the arena tested, but may perform perfectly well in what they are designed to be exposed to. Stock engines in normal use. Also, MCN being the BEST publication, is also opinion and not fact. I am basing my opinion on what Henry said, I did not read it, and although the article is interesting reading material, and somewhat informative, but seems to lack hard data that is quantitative.
RE: Oil
First you say that the article is lacking details and then admit to not reading it? Take the time to read it. The article, IN FACT, does present HARD DATA that is quantitative! It is clearly the most comprehensive oil test I've ever read and once again proves that motorcycle specific oils are nothing more than snakeoil! As far as opinions go, I too believe that MCN is the best motorcycle publication I've ever read. Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.geocities.com/~raddboy Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha GTS1000 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 8:33 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Oil To play the devil's advocate here. The article is lacking details. It talks of extreme heat. This is an ambiguous term. What are its parameters of extreme? Relative to believable temperatures achieved in a stock engine? In our engine? It doesn't say. I do not believe anyone questions whether synthetics are better lubricants. I believe most people question the necessity and expense in our application. Further, it said the Honda oils performed poorly. Again, this is relative. As most of you already knew, I am no Honda fan, so it is not them I am defending. However, they may have performed poorly in the arena tested, but may perform perfectly well in what they are designed to be exposed to. Stock engines in normal use. Also, MCN being the BEST publication, is also opinion and not fact. I am basing my opinion on what Henry said, I did not read it, and although the article is interesting reading material, and somewhat informative, but seems to lack hard data that is quantitative.
Re: Oil
Whether you like the publication or not, it's the ONLY one in America that doesn't kowtow to advertisers (since it has none). It's the only one that does and then publishes REAL tests without fudging to make sure the "desired" choice comes out on top. I'm in the magazine business and I know how these things work. MCN works with a fraction of the budget of the others, yet still ends up doing a more thorough job. The more I read most of the others, the more disdain I have for them. I will admit to liking the graphics and layout better of the others, but as for editorial quality and honesty, MCN is -by far- the best. And I'm not stating just my opinion there. This is a carefully considered expert evaluation. Kind of like saying, it's my "opinion" that a GTS1000 handles better than a 1977 Harley Sportster. Jay (A proud MCN contributor and the only client I work for that pays such peanuts) In a message dated 10/12/00 5:37:50 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Also, MCN being the BEST publication, is also opinion and not fact. I am basing my opinion on what Henry said, I did not read it, and although the article is interesting reading material, and somewhat informative, but seems to lack hard data that is quantitative. Orange County, California Park Ranger R-115 1993-1998
RE: Oil
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --_=_NextPart_001_01C0345C.3981B9D4 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Henry, thanks for the info !! -Original Message- From: Henry S. Winokur [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 11:19 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Oil I have just finished closely reading the article in the October issue of Motorcycle Consumer News regarding oil, and there were some very interesting points, which I though I'd share for those of you who don't get this mag (why don't you? It is the BEST one out there) or who missed the article. One of the items declared the following: "The evaporative loss data was an eye opener for us." I'm wondering how many of us that have reported significant losses of oil volume at high speed are actually seeing large evaporative losses?...that is some part of the oil is evaporating due to high internal operating temperatures of the engine. Also interesting was a sidebar entitled "The Synthetic Question": "The most glaring difference in synthetic-versus-petroleum oils can be seen in Chart F, Evaporative Losses. Because synthetic uses a manufactured base stock, its molecules tend to be more consistent in configuration. As a result, it is less inclined to lose mass when exposed to extreme heat. Of the top 8 oils in this test, the ones that lost the least to heating were all full synthetic. The 9 oils that lost the most were either petroleum based or a blend. THERE COULD NOT BE A MORE CLEAR DISTINCTION IN PERFORMANCE." (italics mine). And under CONCLUSIONS: "there are some trends worth highlighting. Both of the Mobil 1 oils (Tri-synthetic (auto) and MX4T) and the Amsoil (standard 10w-40) performed well in most of our tests and deserve your consideration. Redline oil also turned in strong results. At the, UM (italics, theirs), other end of the scale, we were surprised by the low results of the Honda oils." I think I am on safe ground here saying that if you are losing large volumes of oil during high speed riding, you pretty much owe it to yourself to try a synthetic. Personally I prefer Amsoil, but that is partly because I'm a dealer, and partly because I like dealing with the "little guy" as opposed to some faceless conglomerate like Mobil. It would also appear from the article that whether the oil is motorcycle specific or not is of little importance. Enjoy, and Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD p.s. No I have no relationship with MCN, other than being a very satisfied subscriber. MCN is only available by subscription, and is not cheap. On the other hand, like Consumer Reports it accepts no advertising. But it is worth it. See www.mcnews.com. --_=_NextPart_001_01C0345C.3981B9D4 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN" HTML HEAD META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" META NAME="Generator" CONTENT="MS Exchange Server version 5.5.2650.12" TITLERE: Oil/TITLE /HEAD BODY PFONT SIZE=2Henry, thanks for the info !!/FONT /P PFONT SIZE=2-Original Message-/FONT BRFONT SIZE=2From: Henry S. Winokur [A HREF="mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]/A]/FONT BRFONT SIZE=2Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 11:19 PM/FONT BRFONT SIZE=2To: Multiple recipients of list/FONT BRFONT SIZE=2Subject: Oil/FONT /P BR PFONT SIZE=2I have just finished closely reading the article in the October issue of/FONT BRFONT SIZE=2Motorcycle Consumer News regarding oil, and there were some very interesting/FONT BRFONT SIZE=2points, which I though I'd share for those of you who don't get this mag/FONT BRFONT SIZE=2(why don't you?nbsp; It is the BEST one out there) or who missed the article./FONT BRFONT SIZE=2One of the items declared the following:nbsp; quot;The evaporative loss data was an/FONT BRFONT SIZE=2eye opener for us.quot; I'm wondering how many of us that have reported/FONT BRFONT SIZE=2significant losses of oil volume at high speed are actually seeing large/FONT BRFONT SIZE=2evaporative losses?...that is some part of the oil is evaporating due to/FONT BRFONT SIZE=2high internal operating temperatures of the engine./FONT /P PFONT SIZE=2Also interesting was a sidebar entitled quot;The Synthetic Questionquot;:nbsp; quot;The most/FONT BRFONT SIZE=2glaring difference in synthetic-versus-petroleum oils can be seen in Chart/FONT BRFONT SIZE=2F, Evaporative Losses.nbsp; Because synthetic uses a manufactured base stock,/FONT BRFONT SIZE=2its molecules tend to be more consistent in configuration.nbsp; As a result, it/FONT BRFONT SIZE=2is less inclined to lose mass when exposed to extreme hea
RE: Oil
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --_=_NextPart_001_01C0345D.307BF2EA Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" How can I get a copy of the article ? --_=_NextPart_001_01C0345D.307BF2EA Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN" HTML HEAD META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" META NAME="Generator" CONTENT="MS Exchange Server version 5.5.2650.12" TITLERE: Oil/TITLE /HEAD BODY PFONT SIZE=2How can I get a copy of the article ?/FONT /P /BODY /HTML --_=_NextPart_001_01C0345D.307BF2EA--
Re: Oil
You can subscribe or request back issues. Info available at: http://www.MCNews.com/ In a message dated 10/12/00 8:11:10 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: How can I get a copy of the article ? Orange County, California Park Ranger R-115 1993-1998
RE: Oil
To play the devil's advocate here. The article is lacking details. It talks of extreme heat. This is an ambiguous term. What are its parameters of extreme? Relative to believable temperatures achieved in a stock engine? In our engine? It doesn't say. I do Well, actually, Bob, it does say what is meant by 'extreme heat'. "As mentioned before, the NOACK test raises oil to 250 degrees C. Unless you make a habit of day long idling in Death Valley in August, you are unlikely to see temperatures this high in your crankcase. But this is not to say that your oil never sees temperatures this high. While the bulk of the oil in the crankcase (or oil tank for you dry sump guys) should not be heated to these levels, parts of your engine ARE (their italics). Oil comes into contact with the underside of the piston, and it lubricates the exhaust valve guides. Both these surfaces and others can run at temps well above 250 degrees C. When the oil contacts these surfaces, it may get heated to these temperatures and beyond. The light ends of the oil will evaporate in this situation, and be routed via the PCV valve into the engine for burning. As we said in Oil 101, oil is needed to carry heat away from these critical areas, and it does that best when it does not evaporate away." So to me, "extreme heat" is classified as the heat in the hottest parts of the engine, and those parts can easily reach 250 degrees C and more. The stock engine for the test were late-model Wing engines--44 of them in fact. Further, it said the Honda oils performed poorly. Again, this is relative. Not really. I think it stands to reason that what was meant was that the Honda oils performed poorly in these tests. What is interesting is that if the synthetics performed well, and the Honda oils performed poorly in these tests, you'd have to believe that in these tests the synthetics did a better job. engines in normal use. Also, MCN being the BEST publication, is also opinion You are certainly correct on that score. I (Henry) think it is the most unbiased mag out there because they have no advertising, so they can do, test, and say whatever they please without worry of pissing off one of their advertisers. and not fact. I am basing my opinion on what Henry said, I did not read it, and although the article is interesting reading material, and somewhat informative, but seems to lack hard data that is quantitative. If you didn't read it then I suggest you (editorial YOU--that is everyone who is interested in this subject) do. I think you'll find it very informative. I can't reprint the whole thing, so I selected just those parts which support things I've said or come to know over the years--especially where oil and motorcycles are related. Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD
RE: Oil
How can I get a copy of the article ? If you go to MCN's web page: www.mcnews.com and then click on [article reprints] Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD
Oil
I have just finished closely reading the article in the October issue of Motorcycle Consumer News regarding oil, and there were some very interesting points, which I though I'd share for those of you who don't get this mag (why don't you? It is the BEST one out there) or who missed the article. One of the items declared the following: "The evaporative loss data was an eye opener for us." I'm wondering how many of us that have reported significant losses of oil volume at high speed are actually seeing large evaporative losses?...that is some part of the oil is evaporating due to high internal operating temperatures of the engine. Also interesting was a sidebar entitled "The Synthetic Question": "The most glaring difference in synthetic-versus-petroleum oils can be seen in Chart F, Evaporative Losses. Because synthetic uses a manufactured base stock, its molecules tend to be more consistent in configuration. As a result, it is less inclined to lose mass when exposed to extreme heat. Of the top 8 oils in this test, the ones that lost the least to heating were all full synthetic. The 9 oils that lost the most were either petroleum based or a blend. THERE COULD NOT BE A MORE CLEAR DISTINCTION IN PERFORMANCE." (italics mine). And under CONCLUSIONS: "there are some trends worth highlighting. Both of the Mobil 1 oils (Tri-synthetic (auto) and MX4T) and the Amsoil (standard 10w-40) performed well in most of our tests and deserve your consideration. Redline oil also turned in strong results. At the, UM (italics, theirs), other end of the scale, we were surprised by the low results of the Honda oils." I think I am on safe ground here saying that if you are losing large volumes of oil during high speed riding, you pretty much owe it to yourself to try a synthetic. Personally I prefer Amsoil, but that is partly because I'm a dealer, and partly because I like dealing with the "little guy" as opposed to some faceless conglomerate like Mobil. It would also appear from the article that whether the oil is motorcycle specific or not is of little importance. Enjoy, and Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD p.s. No I have no relationship with MCN, other than being a very satisfied subscriber. MCN is only available by subscription, and is not cheap. On the other hand, like Consumer Reports it accepts no advertising. But it is worth it. See www.mcnews.com.
Re: Oil
I read the same article with much interest. Out of all the rally's I did this year, that is the biggest complaint I have about the GTS. In the Utah 1088 (28 hr) in June I ran Quaker State 10-40 blend and went thru a little more than 2 quarts in ~3400 miles. For the Northwest Passage (3 days/ 3000 mi) I used Quaker State 20-50 blend. With the vacation ride with Sandy on the way home all told was about 6400 miles and over 3 quarts. For the Rattlesnake 2000 (36 hr) I tried Golden Spectro 20-50 blend and used about 1 1/2 qts in 2800 mi. a slight improvement in consumption and the bike shifted much better. So now its on to one of the Synthetics, however rally season is over until next spring, so won't know till then to really test it. -- Dave Biasotti // Fremont, CA "Henry S. Winokur" wrote: I have just finished closely reading the article in the October issue of Motorcycle Consumer News regarding oil, and there were some very interesting points, which I though I'd share for those of you who don't get this mag (why don't you? It is the BEST one out there) or who missed the article. One of the items declared the following: "The evaporative loss data was an eye opener for us." I'm wondering how many of us that have reported significant losses of oil volume at high speed are actually seeing large evaporative losses?...that is some part of the oil is evaporating due to high internal operating temperatures of the engine. Also interesting was a sidebar entitled "The Synthetic Question": "The most glaring difference in synthetic-versus-petroleum oils can be seen in Chart F, Evaporative Losses. Because synthetic uses a manufactured base stock, its molecules tend to be more consistent in configuration. As a result, it is less inclined to lose mass when exposed to extreme heat. Of the top 8 oils in this test, the ones that lost the least to heating were all full synthetic. The 9 oils that lost the most were either petroleum based or a blend. THERE COULD NOT BE A MORE CLEAR DISTINCTION IN PERFORMANCE." (italics mine). And under CONCLUSIONS: "there are some trends worth highlighting. Both of the Mobil 1 oils (Tri-synthetic (auto) and MX4T) and the Amsoil (standard 10w-40) performed well in most of our tests and deserve your consideration. Redline oil also turned in strong results. At the, UM (italics, theirs), other end of the scale, we were surprised by the low results of the Honda oils." I think I am on safe ground here saying that if you are losing large volumes of oil during high speed riding, you pretty much owe it to yourself to try a synthetic. Personally I prefer Amsoil, but that is partly because I'm a dealer, and partly because I like dealing with the "little guy" as opposed to some faceless conglomerate like Mobil. It would also appear from the article that whether the oil is motorcycle specific or not is of little importance. Enjoy, and Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD p.s. No I have no relationship with MCN, other than being a very satisfied subscriber. MCN is only available by subscription, and is not cheap. On the other hand, like Consumer Reports it accepts no advertising. But it is worth it. See www.mcnews.com.
Re: S Hemisphere oil info..fluff
Good one! I nearly fell off my chair laughing at that one! BTW, it's a good thing that our bikes have chain drive. You know, of course, that in the Southern Hemisphere, you can't pull wheelies with a shaft drive. You know...counter-rotation of the shaft and all... Brandon ;^) --original message--- Rob Chapman wrote: I'm sure this is true in the S Hemisphere. In Oz we have an oil called "LIOSMA", but it is rarely used, as not many people have heard of it. More usual is KANGA oil, which is organic rather than synthetic, and eases the jumping/surging tendency of GTS's that have not been one-o'-clocked.
S Hemisphere oil info..fluff
I'm sure this is true in the S Hemisphere. In Oz we have an oil called "LIOSMA", but it is rarely used, as not many people have heard of it. More usual is KANGA oil, which is organic rather than synthetic, and eases the jumping/surging tendency of GTS's that have not been one-o'-clocked. Regards, Rob Chapman - Original Message - From: "Henry S. Winokur" [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "Multiple recipients of list" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 2:46 AM Subject: RE: Desperately need your immediate help! = FYI - I have heard that if you run Synthetic oil and then change back to = standard type oil it can/will cause damage to the engine. Not sure if anyone Only in the southern hemisphere. Most oil manufacturers have issued technical bulletins (I know you can find them on Mobil's web site somewhere) stating that in that scenario, you've got to use a left-threaded magnetic coupling to attach Are you BeeEssing (BS) us or do you really believe this?
RE: oil usage
if you are only using 4 oz in 3000 miles then can you tell me the speed you are traveling at? If I stay at 65 or 70mph I hardly use any oil in any of may bikes. but in France you will get passed by old ladies and that is on the side streets. Mike Coan www.warmnsafe.com Home of the Heat-troller www.ttg-global.com Motorcycle Travel Site -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Crisler, Jon Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2000 10:23 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: oil usage This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --_=_NextPart_001_01C02F09.3305A816 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I have used Amsoil 20w-50 since my GTS-1000 had 9k miles on it, previously using Mobil 1. It now has 26k miles. I burn about 4 ounces over 3000 miles, in other words my oil check window is about 2/3's low when I am due for an oil change. It has been that way since new, I was told by a bike mechanic I respect that some slight oil use is normal. I have a 94 Honda Civic with 103k miles that has NO perceptable oil burn, and has used Mobil 1 since new (I just got the car from my brother). I have an 85 Camaro with 150k miles that has no perceptable oil burn, having Mobil 1 since new and Amsoil since abuot 110k miles. Jon Crisler Oracle DBA, Unix Admin CORVIS Corporation --_=_NextPart_001_01C02F09.3305A816 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN" HTML HEAD META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1" META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version = 5.5.2650.12" TITLEoil usage/TITLE /HEAD BODY PFONT SIZE=3D2I have used Amsoil 20w-50 since my GTS-1000 had 9k = miles on it, previously using Mobil 1.nbsp; It now has 26k = miles.nbsp; I burn about 4 ounces over 3000 miles, in other words my = oil check window is about 2/3's low when I am due for an oil = change.nbsp; It has been that way since new, I was told by a bike = mechanic I respect that some slight oil use is normal./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2I have a 94 Honda Civic with 103k miles that has NO = perceptable oil burn, and has used Mobil 1 since new (I just got the = car from my brother).nbsp; I have an 85 Camaro with 150k miles that = has no perceptable oil burn, having Mobil 1 since new and Amsoil since = abuot 110k miles./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2Jon Crisler/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Oracle DBA, Unix Admin/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2CORVIS Corporation /FONT /P /BODY /HTML --_=_NextPart_001_01C02F09.3305A816--
RE: oil usage
In my experience, the GTS burns quite a bit of oil at high speed (+150km/h)on the highway. This at longer trips with an hot engine of course. My dealer tells me that it's a typical Yamaha-problem, and that every Yamaha burns oil. Since my last oil-change, I use semi-synthetic oil, and it seems to me that this type of oil is better to (partly) solve the problem. Best greetings, karl -Original Message- From: Motorcycle [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: vrijdag 6 oktober 2000 9:51 To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: RE: oil usage if you are only using 4 oz in 3000 miles then can you tell me the speed you are traveling at? If I stay at 65 or 70mph I hardly use any oil in any of may bikes. but in France you will get passed by old ladies and that is on the side streets. Mike Coan www.warmnsafe.com Home of the Heat-troller www.ttg-global.com Motorcycle Travel Site -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Crisler, Jon Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2000 10:23 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: oil usage This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --_=_NextPart_001_01C02F09.3305A816 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I have used Amsoil 20w-50 since my GTS-1000 had 9k miles on it, previously using Mobil 1. It now has 26k miles. I burn about 4 ounces over 3000 miles, in other words my oil check window is about 2/3's low when I am due for an oil change. It has been that way since new, I was told by a bike mechanic I respect that some slight oil use is normal. I have a 94 Honda Civic with 103k miles that has NO perceptable oil burn, and has used Mobil 1 since new (I just got the car from my brother). I have an 85 Camaro with 150k miles that has no perceptable oil burn, having Mobil 1 since new and Amsoil since abuot 110k miles. Jon Crisler Oracle DBA, Unix Admin CORVIS Corporation --_=_NextPart_001_01C02F09.3305A816 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN" HTML HEAD META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1" META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version = 5.5.2650.12" TITLEoil usage/TITLE /HEAD BODY PFONT SIZE=3D2I have used Amsoil 20w-50 since my GTS-1000 had 9k = miles on it, previously using Mobil 1.nbsp; It now has 26k = miles.nbsp; I burn about 4 ounces over 3000 miles, in other words my = oil check window is about 2/3's low when I am due for an oil = change.nbsp; It has been that way since new, I was told by a bike = mechanic I respect that some slight oil use is normal./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2I have a 94 Honda Civic with 103k miles that has NO = perceptable oil burn, and has used Mobil 1 since new (I just got the = car from my brother).nbsp; I have an 85 Camaro with 150k miles that = has no perceptable oil burn, having Mobil 1 since new and Amsoil since = abuot 110k miles./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2Jon Crisler/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Oracle DBA, Unix Admin/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2CORVIS Corporation /FONT /P /BODY /HTML --_=_NextPart_001_01C02F09.3305A816--
Re: Synthetic Oil RE: oil usage
Not mine! Dry clutch - transmission has it's own oil and the engine oil sits in the right 1/2 of the gas tank (that is, the oil tank) "Hawkins, Kevin" wrote: Harley's have wet clutches that shear the engine the oil? Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.geocities.com/~raddboy Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha GTS1000 -Original Message- From: Crisler, Jon [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 12:23 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Synthetic Oil RE: oil usage Amsoil has addressed this concern (mostly with Harley owners) by coming out with a Motorcycle oil in 10w-40 and 20w-50 that uses friction modifiers compatible with wet clutches. I suspect that this motorcycle oil is identical to the regular Hi-PO synth 10w-40 and 20w-50 that they have always said is ideal for wet-clutch motorcycles.
Re: Synthetic Oil RE: oil usage
Yes, so does my Ducatti. :) Louis :) "Hawkins, Kevin" wrote: Harley's have wet clutches that shear the engine the oil? Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.geocities.com/~raddboy Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha GTS1000
RE: Synthetic Oil RE: oil usage
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --_=_NextPart_001_01C02FA0.51D39A0E Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" From what I understand, there is something in synthetic API SH oils that Harley (the company) did not like. Also, some wet clutch motorcycles do not like some SG/SH and some synthetic oils, because the anti-wear agents and other additives cause additional clutch slippage.I think Harleys use wet clutches, but I am not sure, never owned one and all the guys I know that have Harleys do not understand bike mechanics at all. "You got a wet clutch on that ?" A: "Clutch ? what clutch ?" Here is a link with some info: http://www.syntheticlubes.com/moreform.html -Original Message- From: Hawkins, Kevin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 8:19 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: RE: Synthetic Oil RE: oil usage Harley's have wet clutches that shear the engine the oil? Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.geocities.com/~raddboy Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha GTS1000 -Original Message- From: Crisler, Jon [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 12:23 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Synthetic Oil RE: oil usage Amsoil has addressed this concern (mostly with Harley owners) by coming out with a Motorcycle oil in 10w-40 and 20w-50 that uses friction modifiers compatible with wet clutches. I suspect that this motorcycle oil is identical to the regular Hi-PO synth 10w-40 and 20w-50 that they have always said is ideal for wet-clutch motorcycles. --_=_NextPart_001_01C02FA0.51D39A0E Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN" HTML HEAD META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1" META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version = 5.5.2650.12" TITLERE: Synthetic Oil RE: oil usage/TITLE /HEAD BODY PFONT SIZE=3D2From what I understand, there is something in = synthetic API SH oils that Harley (the company) did not like.nbsp; = Also, some wet clutch motorcycles do not like some SG/SH and some = synthetic oils, because the anti-wear agents and other additives cause = additional clutch slippage.nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; I think Harleys use wet = clutches, but I am not sure, never owned one and all the guys I know = that have Harleys do not understand bike mechanics at all./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2quot;You got a wet clutch on that ?quot;nbsp; A: = quot;Clutch ? what clutch ?quot;/FONT /P PFONT SIZE=3D2nbsp; Here is a link with some info:nbsp; A = HREF=3D"http://www.syntheticlubes.com/moreform.html" = TARGET=3D"_blank"http://www.syntheticlubes.com/moreform.html/A/FONT= /P PFONT SIZE=3D2-Original Message-/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2From: Hawkins, Kevin [A = HREF=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]/A]/FON= T BRFONT SIZE=3D2Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 8:19 AM/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2To: Multiple recipients of list/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Subject: RE: Synthetic Oil RE: oil usage/FONT /P BR PFONT SIZE=3D2Harley's have wet clutches that shear the engine the = oil?/FONT /P PFONT SIZE=3D2Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC /FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2[EMAIL PROTECTED]/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2A HREF=3D"http://www.geocities.com/~raddboy" = TARGET=3D"_blank"http://www.geocities.com/~raddboy/A/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha GTS1000/FONT /P BR PFONT SIZE=3D2-Original Message-/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2From: Crisler, Jon [A = HREF=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]/A]/FON= T BRFONT SIZE=3D2Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 12:23 AM/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2To: Multiple recipients of list/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Subject: Synthetic Oil RE: oil usage/FONT /P BR PFONT SIZE=3D2Amsoil has addressed this concern (mostly with/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Harley owners) by coming out with a Motorcycle oil = in 10w-40 and 20w-50 that/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2uses friction modifiers compatible with wet = clutches.nbsp; I suspect that this/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2motorcycle oil is identical to the regular Hi-PO = synth 10w-40 and 20w-50/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2that they have always said is ideal for wet-clutch = motorcycles./FONT /P /BODY /HTML --_=_NextPart_001_01C02FA0.51D39A0E--
RE: Synthetic Oil RE: oil usage
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --_=_NextPart_001_01C02FA1.7123BBC2 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" OK OK OK !! I get the point, my post was badly written and misleading !! Wet Clutch, Dry Clutch, Bad Clutch !! Here is a like with some crap about Harley's objections to SG/SH/SJ oil http://www.syntheticlubes.com/moreform.html -Original Message- From: Louis Tweed [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 9:45 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil RE: oil usage Yes, so does my Ducatti. :) Louis :) "Hawkins, Kevin" wrote: Harley's have wet clutches that shear the engine the oil? Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.geocities.com/~raddboy Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha GTS1000 --_=_NextPart_001_01C02FA1.7123BBC2 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN" HTML HEAD META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1" META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version = 5.5.2650.12" TITLERE: Synthetic Oil RE: oil usage/TITLE /HEAD BODY PFONT SIZE=3D2OK OK OK !!nbsp; I get the point, my post was badly = written and misleading !!nbsp; Wet Clutch, Dry Clutch, Bad Clutch = !!nbsp;nbsp; Here is a like with some crap about Harley's objections = to SG/SH/SJ oil/FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2A = HREF=3D"http://www.syntheticlubes.com/moreform.html" = TARGET=3D"_blank"http://www.syntheticlubes.com/moreform.html/A/FONT= /P PFONT SIZE=3D2-Original Message-/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2From: Louis Tweed [A = HREF=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]/A]/FON= T BRFONT SIZE=3D2Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 9:45 AM/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2To: Multiple recipients of list/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil RE: oil usage/FONT /P BR PFONT SIZE=3D2Yes, so does my Ducatti.nbsp; :)/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Louis :)/FONT /P PFONT SIZE=3D2quot;Hawkins, Kevinquot; wrote:/FONT /P PFONT SIZE=3D2gt; Harley's have wet clutches that shear the engine = the oil?/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt;/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; [EMAIL PROTECTED]/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; A HREF=3D"http://www.geocities.com/~raddboy" = TARGET=3D"_blank"http://www.geocities.com/~raddboy/A/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha = GTS1000/FONT /P /BODY /HTML --_=_NextPart_001_01C02FA1.7123BBC2--
RE: Synthetic Oil RE: oil usage
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --_=_NextPart_001_01C02FFE.A90AB9E8 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" The guy I signed up with is Vic Sledzinski, in PA. I ran across his web site and signed up with him. I too only became a dealer to get the stuff at dealer prices. However, some people also buy from me. Not enough to make any money though, I just do it as a favor. Yes, I charge only the actual cost. -Original Message- From: Henry S. Winokur [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 8:57 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: RE: Synthetic Oil RE: oil usage A couple of us on the list use the Series 2000 20w-50 (Henry Winkour, I also use AMSOIL in the GTS, as Jon has noted. However, my history with AMSOIL goes back to the mid 80s when I started using it in my 84 Saab900 Turbo. For that car, I used the AMSOIL 10w-40, and I also used the 75-90 gear oil. I believe the gear oil allowed me to get close to 140,000 miles off the gear box (a 5 speed manual) before having to have it rebuilt--normal service life using non- synthetics, according to my mechanics (a Saab/Volvo shop) is about 100K. I started using the AMSOIL when the car had about 20K on it. I finally got rid of it in 95 with 158K on the clock. When I purchased my Concours, I switched it over to AMSOIL 10w-40 as soon as I had the 600 mile service done. Never looked back. Never had an oil related problem, but now that I think about it, I never had any problems with the cam chain tensioner, either, which as Jason can attest too, was a problem in the early Connie engines. In fact, when I sold the bike a year ago this Thanksgiving, it still had the original cam chain tensioner in it, and there was no noise. I changed my oil less frequently than Jon...once a year as AMSOIL said to (or every 25K whichever is shorter). In the spring I would change the oil, change the filter, change the drive oils, lube the throttle cable, clean the oil filter (KN), change the brake/clutch fluids and other spring maintenance items and generally clean up the bike. The bike served me pretty faithfully for 12 years. As for the GTS, I have just switched (2 weeks ago) to AMSOIL Series 2000 20w-50. Since I tend to ride far less than most of you, I will continue to change the filter at the 6 month interval, but only change the oil once per year--unless I get in 25K miles (HIGHLY unlikely). Or unless there is some indication that I should change more frequently. Also it should be noted that the AMSOIL SDF 20 oil filter is about 1/2" longer than the Yamaha stock filter. I haven't tried it, but Chris Caputo says the AMSOIL SDF 36 filter will also fit and it is longer than the 20. I can say this regarding the Series 2000 oils: I run the 0w-30 in 2 Saabs (94 900 and a 95 9000 CS Light Pressure Turbo) and our 95 Windstar. One of the first things I noticed when I put the Series 2000 in is that my gas mileage on each of the vehicles went up by about 10-15%. Both the Windstar and the 9000 have used the AMSOIL since break-in was over. The 900 we purchased used, and I do not know what was in it prior to our acquisition of it. Like Jon, I also am a dealer, but mostly to be able to buy the stuff at cost. Say, Jon, who's your dealer? Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD --_=_NextPart_001_01C02FFE.A90AB9E8 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN" HTML HEAD META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1" META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version = 5.5.2650.12" TITLERE: Synthetic Oil RE: oil usage/TITLE /HEAD BODY PFONT SIZE=3D2The guy I signed up with is Vic Sledzinski, in = PA.nbsp; I ran across his web site and signed up with him.nbsp; I too = only became a dealer to get the stuff at dealer prices.nbsp; However, = some people also buy from me.nbsp; Not enough to make any money = though, I just do it as a favor.nbsp; Yes, I charge only the actual = cost./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2-Original Message-/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2From: Henry S. Winokur [A = HREF=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]/A]/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 8:57 PM/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2To: Multiple recipients of list/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Subject: RE: Synthetic Oil RE: oil usage/FONT /P BR PFONT SIZE=3D2gt; A couple of us on the list use the Series 2000 = 20w-50 (Henry Winkour,/FONT /P PFONT SIZE=3D2I also use AMSOIL in the GTS, as Jon has noted.nbsp; = However, my history with/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2AMSOIL goes back to the mid 80s when I started using = it in my 84 Saab900/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Turbo.nbsp;
oil usage
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --_=_NextPart_001_01C02F09.3305A816 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I have used Amsoil 20w-50 since my GTS-1000 had 9k miles on it, previously using Mobil 1. It now has 26k miles. I burn about 4 ounces over 3000 miles, in other words my oil check window is about 2/3's low when I am due for an oil change. It has been that way since new, I was told by a bike mechanic I respect that some slight oil use is normal. I have a 94 Honda Civic with 103k miles that has NO perceptable oil burn, and has used Mobil 1 since new (I just got the car from my brother). I have an 85 Camaro with 150k miles that has no perceptable oil burn, having Mobil 1 since new and Amsoil since abuot 110k miles. Jon Crisler Oracle DBA, Unix Admin CORVIS Corporation --_=_NextPart_001_01C02F09.3305A816 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN" HTML HEAD META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1" META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version = 5.5.2650.12" TITLEoil usage/TITLE /HEAD BODY PFONT SIZE=3D2I have used Amsoil 20w-50 since my GTS-1000 had 9k = miles on it, previously using Mobil 1.nbsp; It now has 26k = miles.nbsp; I burn about 4 ounces over 3000 miles, in other words my = oil check window is about 2/3's low when I am due for an oil = change.nbsp; It has been that way since new, I was told by a bike = mechanic I respect that some slight oil use is normal./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2I have a 94 Honda Civic with 103k miles that has NO = perceptable oil burn, and has used Mobil 1 since new (I just got the = car from my brother).nbsp; I have an 85 Camaro with 150k miles that = has no perceptable oil burn, having Mobil 1 since new and Amsoil since = abuot 110k miles./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2Jon Crisler/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Oracle DBA, Unix Admin/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2CORVIS Corporation /FONT /P /BODY /HTML --_=_NextPart_001_01C02F09.3305A816--
RE: oil usage
I have used Amsoil 20w-50 since my GTS-1000 had 9k miles on it, previously using Mobil 1. It now has 26k miles. I burn about 4 ounces over 3000 miles, in other words my oil check window is about 2/3's low when I am due for an oil change. It has been that way since new, I was told by a bike mechanic I respect that some slight oil use is normal. Jon.. How often do you change your AMSOIL? I did what you recommended and changed to the Series 2000 20w-50, plus the SDF 20 oil filter (which is about 1/2" longer than the stock one). Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD
RE: oil usage
Jon What is better about the series 2000 oil for cycles? --- "Henry S. Winokur" [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jon.. How often do you change your AMSOIL? I did what you recommended and changed to the Series 2000 20w-50, plus the SDF 20 oil filter (which is about 1/2" longer than the stock one). Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD __ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/
RE: oil usage
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --_=_NextPart_001_01C02F16.D40DF2A6 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I change my oil every 3000k miles. I had been using the standard Yamaha/NipponDenso filter, but just switched to the Amsoil SDF-13. I had a SDF-20 but needed it for my Honda Civic, and I was not sure it would fit perfectly, although I heard others had used it. I also did not have a removal wrench for the SDF-20 (cap style adapter), so it was a last minute choice to go with the SDF-13. Let me know if you have any fitment/removal problems with the SDF-20, I might use that next time. It is a bigger filter by at least 40% capacity. Since my GTS-1000 is my baby, I try to maintain it carefully, and do not stretch oil changes. When I use Amsoil in my cars/trucks/boats, I usually go 5000-7500 miles. My boat gets Amsoil Series 2000 20w-50 once a year or every 75-100 hours, depending on useage. Also, two interesting things: 1) I just put a dual-bypass filter on my Suburban. This has a regular filter like normal filters, and a special filter that will get particles below 1 micron, compared to the 20-40 micron range of full flow filters. 10% of the oil is diverted to the fine filter. You cannot run the entire amount of oil through the fine filter because it has much lower flow rates due to the media being used. 2) I caught a sample of the oil from my GTS-1000 and sent it off for oil analysis. It will be interesting to compare the results of the GTS to my boat, truck and cars. -Original Message- From: Henry S. Winokur [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2000 5:04 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: RE: oil usage I have used Amsoil 20w-50 since my GTS-1000 had 9k miles on it, previously using Mobil 1. It now has 26k miles. I burn about 4 ounces over 3000 miles, in other words my oil check window is about 2/3's low when I am due for an oil change. It has been that way since new, I was told by a bike mechanic I respect that some slight oil use is normal. Jon.. How often do you change your AMSOIL? I did what you recommended and changed to the Series 2000 20w-50, plus the SDF 20 oil filter (which is about 1/2" longer than the stock one). Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD --_=_NextPart_001_01C02F16.D40DF2A6 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN" HTML HEAD META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1" META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version = 5.5.2650.12" TITLERE: oil usage/TITLE /HEAD BODY PFONT SIZE=3D2I change my oil every 3000k miles.nbsp; I had been = using the standard Yamaha/NipponDenso filter, but just switched to the = Amsoil SDF-13.nbsp; I had a SDF-20 but needed it for my Honda Civic, = and I was not sure it would fit perfectly, although I heard others had = used it.nbsp; I also did not have a removal wrench for the SDF-20 (cap = style adapter), so it was a last minute choice to go with the = SDF-13.nbsp;nbsp; Let me know if you have any fitment/removal = problems with the SDF-20, I might use that next time.nbsp; It is a = bigger filter by at least 40% capacity./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2Since my GTS-1000 is my baby, I try to maintain it = carefully, and do not stretch oil changes.nbsp; When I use Amsoil in = my cars/trucks/boats, I usually go 5000-7500 miles.nbsp; My boat gets = Amsoil Series 2000 20w-50 once a year or every 75-100 hours, depending = on useage./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2nbsp;Also, two interesting things:nbsp; /FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D21) I just put a dual-bypass filter on my = Suburban.nbsp; This has a regular filter like normal filters, and a = special filter that will get particles below 1 micron, compared to the = 20-40 micron range of full flow filters.nbsp; 10% of the oil is = diverted to the fine filter.nbsp; You cannot run the entire amount of = oil through the fine filter because it has much lower flow rates due to = the media being used./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D22) I caught a sample of the oil from my GTS-1000 and = sent it off for oil analysis.nbsp; It will be interesting to compare = the results of the GTS to my boat, truck and cars./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2-Original Message-/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2From: Henry S. Winokur [A = HREF=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]/A]/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2000 5:04 PM/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2To: Multiple recipients of list/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Subject: RE: oil usage/FONT /P BR PFONT SIZE=3D2gt; I have used Amsoil 20w-50 since my GTS-1000 had = 9k miles on it, previously/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; using Mobil 1.nbsp
Synthetic Oil RE: oil usage
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --_=_NextPart_001_01C02F1E.6726E320 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Well, I can tell you whats better about it, but sometimes better for normal gas engines is not so good for bikes. The Series 2000 stuff (in 0w-30 and 20w-50 only) has a very high quality base oil, with special anti-wear additives and shear stable additives. It has better long-term stability, dirt fighting ability, high flashpoint (which means reduced oil consumption). There is a Series 3000 in 5w-30 that has a slightly different additive package that makes it ideal for diesels, but is great for gas engines. The problem is the friction modifiers. Some people have complained about other synthetics that the friction modifiers sometimes used can give problems with wet clutches slipping and starters. The stuff is that slippery. I have not heard that problem with the Amsoil stuff on the GTS, but somebody had that problem with Mobil 1 on the GTS list, and had to change away from Mobil 1. Amsoil has addressed this concern (mostly with Harley owners) by coming out with a Motorcycle oil in 10w-40 and 20w-50 that uses friction modifiers compatible with wet clutches. I suspect that this motorcycle oil is identical to the regular Hi-PO synth 10w-40 and 20w-50 that they have always said is ideal for wet-clutch motorcycles. A couple of us on the list use the Series 2000 20w-50 (Henry Winkour, myself, another whose name escapes me). Others use the standard 10/40 and 20/50 (which is a great oil, the stats are better than Mobil 1). The problem is cost: The Series 2000 is about $7.95 retail. The Hi-Po Synth is about $5.50 a quart. Not sure about the Motorcycle oil. Now, keep in mind that I am biased on two counts: I have used synthetics since the early 80's (Mobil 1) and started using Amsoil about a 2 years ago. AND, I sell the stuff, but only to friends, and only those that want it. I am not allowed by Amsoil to sell for less than the suggested retail. I am also not allowed to speed on my GTS, and spit on the sidewalk :) I switched from dino juice on my Suburban to Amsoil 0w-30, and my gas mileage went from 12 to 14. Thats about a 15% improvement. There have been dyno tests were synth was compared to dino in different weights, this was published in Mustang World I think. In a very hot 351 V8, a 5w-30 Mobil 1 made 640 hp, where the dino 5w-30 made 615 hp, and the dino 20w-50 made 605 hp. It is a well known fact that lighter weight oils can give you back a few hp, but you may sacrifice some engine protection, which is why you want to go to a SYNTH light oil. For my GTS, I want engine protection and hp, which is why I use the 20w-50. Enough of my speachifying !!! -Original Message- From: Kevin Harrington [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2000 5:51 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: RE: oil usage Jon What is better about the series 2000 oil for cycles? --- "Henry S. Winokur" [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jon.. How often do you change your AMSOIL? I did what you recommended and changed to the Series 2000 20w-50, plus the SDF 20 oil filter (which is about 1/2" longer than the stock one). Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD __ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ --_=_NextPart_001_01C02F1E.6726E320 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN" HTML HEAD META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1" META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version = 5.5.2650.12" TITLESynthetic Oil RE: oil usage/TITLE /HEAD BODY PFONT SIZE=3D2Well, I can tell you whats better about it, but = sometimes better for normal gas engines is not so good for = bikes./FONT /P PFONT SIZE=3D2The Series 2000 stuff (in 0w-30 and 20w-50 only) has = a very high quality base oil, with special anti-wear additives and = shear stable additives.nbsp; It has better long-term stability, dirt = fighting ability, high flashpoint (which means reduced oil = consumption).nbsp;nbsp; There is a Series 3000 in 5w-30 that has a = slightly different additive package that makes it ideal for diesels, = but is great for gas engines./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2nbsp;The problem is the friction modifiers.nbsp; = Some people have complained about other synthetics that the friction = modifiers sometimes used can give problems with wet clutches slipping = and starters. The stuff is that slippery.nbsp; I have not heard that = problem with the Amsoil stuff on the GTS,
Re: Oil weight
Henry, late 50's early 60's. Amsoil is good but a relative new commer to the sythetics field. -- From: Henry S. Winokur [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Oil weight Date: Monday, October 02, 2000 2:30 PM I've settled on 10W50 BelRay Superbike oil. Covers all temp. ranges. These guys probably know the most about synthetics, they do synthetics for the I don't know about that. How long have they been doing synthetics? AMSOIL has been doing ONLY synthetics since it was founded, in the 70's. space program as well. Stan I put nothing into that either. The space program is probably run the same way most of the rest of the government is: low bidder!! Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD
RE: Oil weight
I've settled on 10W50 BelRay Superbike oil. Covers all temp. ranges. These guys probably know the most about synthetics, they do synthetics for the I don't know about that. How long have they been doing synthetics? AMSOIL has been doing ONLY synthetics since it was founded, in the 70's. space program as well. Stan I put nothing into that either. The space program is probably run the same way most of the rest of the government is: low bidder!! Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD
RE: Oil weight
--- "Henry S. Winokur" [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: snip I put nothing into that either. The space program is probably run the same way most of the rest of the government is: low bidder!! Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD This is normally true, but Bel-Ray is sort of a spinoff from the program and not really a bidder as such... FL Kev __ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/
Re: Oil weight
I've been running Yamalube® Semi-Synthetic 10W-50. I waited to use it until after the engine was fully broken in. It works great. It really improved the smoothness of the shifting action. This oil was designed for high temps, high loads and high acceleration rates. I also like the fact that it works well here in Utah. This summer was a killer with multiple days over 100 degrees. Typically in the winter it drops into the teens regularly. Of course, I tend to limit my riding in the midst of the winter, although the front end contributes to an easy change to a ski when there is snow. ;^) Seriously though, I will ride in the winter but as we tend to get a fair amount of snowfall and temps below freezing for weeks at a time, the black-ice can be a real PITA. Brandon
Re: Oil weight
Sorry to hear your bike may up for sale Louis. My wife has a great saying - if you own something outright and it's not costing anything to keep it, why sell it. Hence my Venture, and it's way to good a bike to sell anyway. Having said that, cash flow always comes into play. My .02 Grant Gall Louis Tweed wrote: Works for me. I use 10W30 or 15W40, I ride whenever I get a chance. Unfortunately not enough to warrant keeping the GTS right now. It may go up for sale soon. :( Louis "Henry S. Winokur" wrote: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02856.A153DC20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit What weight oil do you all use? I live in the DC area, where temperatures generally range from the low teens to the upper 90s. I generally don't ride when the temps are below 35. The next oil is going to be synthetic (let's not get into that argument for now), and it's going to be AMSOIL. In my Concours, I ran 10w40 AMSOIL 100% Synthetic and had no problems (maybe that's why I never had any cam chain tensioner problems). My inclination is to run the same thing in the GTS. Feedback please. Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD --=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02856.A153DC20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN" HTMLHEAD META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1" META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4207.2601" name=3DGENERATOR/HEAD BODY DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000FONT face=3DArialWhat weight oil = do you all=20 use?nbsp; I live in the DC area, where temperatures generally range = from the=20 low teens to the upper 90s.nbsp; I generally don't ride when the temps = are=20 below 35.nbsp; The next oil is going to be synthetic (let's not get = into that=20 argument for now), and it's going to be AMSOIL.nbsp; = /FONT/SPAN/DIV DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000FONT = face=3DArial/FONT/SPANnbsp;/DIV DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000FONT face=3DArialIn my Concours, = I ran 10w40=20 AMSOILnbsp;100% Syntheticnbsp;and had no problems (maybe that's why I = never=20 had any cam chain tensioner problems).nbsp; My inclination is to run = the same=20 thing in the GTS./FONT/SPAN/DIV DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000FONT = face=3DArial/FONT/SPANnbsp;/DIV DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000FONT face=3DArialFeedback=20 please./FONT/SPAN/DIV DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000FONT = face=3DArial/FONT/SPANnbsp;/DIV DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000 DIVFONT face=3DArial size=3D2 DIVFONT face=3DArialRegards,/FONT/DIV DIVnbsp;/DIV DIVFONT face=3DArialHenry S. Winokur/FONT/DIV DIVFONT face=3DArial94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD//FONTFONT = face=3DArialMSF=20 Certified Instructor/FONT/DIV DIVFONT face=3DArialWest Bethesda,=20 MD/FONT/DIV/FONT/DIV/SPAN/DIV/BODY/HTML --=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02856.A153DC20--
RE: Oil weight
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --_=_NextPart_001_01C02981.EA4FEB40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Like Henry, I live in the D.C. area. I used to use Mobil 1 15w-50 year round, but I ride little if any in Dec, Jan and Feb. I switched to Amsoil Series 2000 20w-50 about a year ago, and it seems to be working fine. My gas mileage went up slightly. However, some people have had problems with certain synthetics affecting the starter operation, and possibly clutch slippage. The solution was to change oil types. I only know of one person that had that problem on the list. The Amsoil Series 20w-50 has an exceptionally good base oil, and some friction modifiers beyond almost all other oils, which makes it very slippery indeed. This is what makes it so good in the wear and horsepower areas. However, this may not be so good for some motorcycle clutches (Harley being the most problematic). Amsoil has a motorcycle oil that has different types and levels of friction modifiers compared to the Series 2000 20w-50, but I am not really sure if it is any different than the Hi Perf Synthetic 20w-50. My bet is that its the SAME stuff, just in a different bottle and marketed to bikes. The Hi Perf Synthetic 20w-50 is about $5.50 a quart list (I get it at cost for my friends), the Series 2000 20w-50 list is $7.95. Not sure on the motorcycle price, I need to check. The motorcycle oil is available in 10w-40, 20w-50 and I think straight 50 and 60 (!!!). The Series 2000 is available in 0w-30 (which I use in some cars) and 20w-50. There is also a Series 3000 in 5w-30 that is also diesel rated. --_=_NextPart_001_01C02981.EA4FEB40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN" HTML HEAD META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1" META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version = 5.5.2650.12" TITLERE: Oil weight/TITLE /HEAD BODY PFONT SIZE=3D2Like Henry, I live in the D.C. area.nbsp; I used to = use Mobil 1 15w-50 year round, but I ride little if any in Dec, Jan and = Feb.nbsp; I switched to Amsoil Series 2000 20w-50 about a year ago, = and it seems to be working fine.nbsp; My gas mileage went up = slightly.nbsp; However, some people have had problems with certain = synthetics affecting the starter operation, and possibly clutch = slippage.nbsp; The solution was to change oil types.nbsp; I only know = of one person that had that problem on the list./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2nbsp; The Amsoil Series 20w-50 has an exceptionally = good base oil, and some friction modifiers beyond almost all other = oils, which makes it very slippery indeed.nbsp; This is what makes it = so good in the wear and horsepower areas.nbsp; However, this may not = be so good for some motorcycle clutches (Harley being the most = problematic).nbsp; Amsoil has a motorcycle oil that has different = types and levels of friction modifiers compared to the Series 2000 = 20w-50, but I am not really sure if it is any different than the Hi = Perf Synthetic 20w-50.nbsp; My bet is that its the SAME stuff, just in = a different bottle and marketed to bikes.nbsp;nbsp; The Hi Perf = Synthetic 20w-50 is about $5.50 a quart list (I get it at cost for my = friends), the Series 2000 20w-50 list is $7.95.nbsp; Not sure on the = motorcycle price, I need to check./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2nbsp;The motorcycle oil is available in 10w-40, = 20w-50 and I think straight 50 and 60 (!!!). /FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2The Series 2000 is available in 0w-30 (which I use = in some cars) and 20w-50.nbsp; There is also a Series 3000 in 5w-30 = that is also diesel rated./FONT/P /BODY /HTML --_=_NextPart_001_01C02981.EA4FEB40--
Re: Oil weight (FLUFF)
In a message dated 9/28/00 3:18:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Sorry to hear your bike may up for sale Louis. My wife has a great saying - if you own something outright and it's not costing anything to keep it, why sell it. I guess that explains why she's still married to you. ; ) Fred
Re: Oil weight (FLUFF)
Good one Fred, I had a chuckle over that one! Grant Gall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 9/28/00 3:18:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Sorry to hear your bike may up for sale Louis. My wife has a great saying - if you own something outright and it's not costing anything to keep it, why sell it. I guess that explains why she's still married to you. ; ) Fred
Re: Oil weight
I've settled on 10W50 BelRay Superbike oil. Covers all temp. ranges. These guys probably know the most about synthetics, they do synthetics for the space program as well. Stan -- From: Hawkins, Kevin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Oil weight Date: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 12:41 PM Like Mark, I run Mobil 1 15w50 year round. It has exceptional pumpability in lower temperatures which eliminates the need to switch to a lighter oil in the winter. Here's the deal on MIME attachments. Sometimes no matter what the client PC does in setting his MS Exchange or Outlook options to text only, the Exchange server will attach HTML to the message. Call up your provider who is running the Exchange Server (ver 5.5) and give him the following instructions. 1. Start the Microsoft Exchange Administrator program. 2. In the left pane of the window, click on "Connections" under the name of the server. 3. In the right pane, double click on "Internet Mail Service" and go to the "Internet Mail" tab. 4. In the "Message Content" section you will see "Attachments (Outbound)". MIME should be selected, but ONLY the "Plain Text" box should be clicked. NOT HTML!! Both Plain Text and HTML are clicked when MS Exchange Server is initially loaded. The administrator needs to unclick the HTML box. Congratulations! You now have your MCP in Exchange Server 5.5! :^) Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.geocities.com/~raddboy Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha GTS1000 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 12:04 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Oil weight I run Mobil 1 15w50. If I'm doing a late fall or mid-winter oil change, I'll go to 10w40 in some synthetic, but it really doesn't get cold enough here to make cold starting viscosity a problem for me. Of course, I don't take the bike out much if it's in the 20s. :) Frankly, given the traffic and weather patterns here, I'm more concerned about heat damaging the oil when you get caught in a traffic jam for 45 minutes during a 75+ degree day in December. Mark "living in Virginia now" Bergman [50 lines of HTML deleted] Please, please, please make your mailer stop sending clear text _and_ the same message in HTML!
Oil weight
This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02856.A153DC20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit What weight oil do you all use? I live in the DC area, where temperatures generally range from the low teens to the upper 90s. I generally don't ride when the temps are below 35. The next oil is going to be synthetic (let's not get into that argument for now), and it's going to be AMSOIL. In my Concours, I ran 10w40 AMSOIL 100% Synthetic and had no problems (maybe that's why I never had any cam chain tensioner problems). My inclination is to run the same thing in the GTS. Feedback please. Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD --=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02856.A153DC20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN" HTMLHEAD META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1" META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4207.2601" name=3DGENERATOR/HEAD BODY DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000FONT face=3DArialWhat weight oil = do you all=20 use?nbsp; I live in the DC area, where temperatures generally range = from the=20 low teens to the upper 90s.nbsp; I generally don't ride when the temps = are=20 below 35.nbsp; The next oil is going to be synthetic (let's not get = into that=20 argument for now), and it's going to be AMSOIL.nbsp; = /FONT/SPAN/DIV DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000FONT = face=3DArial/FONT/SPANnbsp;/DIV DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000FONT face=3DArialIn my Concours, = I ran 10w40=20 AMSOILnbsp;100% Syntheticnbsp;and had no problems (maybe that's why I = never=20 had any cam chain tensioner problems).nbsp; My inclination is to run = the same=20 thing in the GTS./FONT/SPAN/DIV DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000FONT = face=3DArial/FONT/SPANnbsp;/DIV DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000FONT face=3DArialFeedback=20 please./FONT/SPAN/DIV DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000FONT = face=3DArial/FONT/SPANnbsp;/DIV DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000 DIVFONT face=3DArial size=3D2 DIVFONT face=3DArialRegards,/FONT/DIV DIVnbsp;/DIV DIVFONT face=3DArialHenry S. Winokur/FONT/DIV DIVFONT face=3DArial94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD//FONTFONT = face=3DArialMSF=20 Certified Instructor/FONT/DIV DIVFONT face=3DArialWest Bethesda,=20 MD/FONT/DIV/FONT/DIV/SPAN/DIV/BODY/HTML --=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02856.A153DC20--
Re: Oil weight
In your message dated: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 07:47:47 EDT, your pithy ruminations on Oil weight were: = This is a multi-part message in MIME format. = = --=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02856.A153DC20 = Content-Type: text/plain; = charset="iso-8859-1" = Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit = = What weight oil do you all use? I live in the DC area, where temperatures = generally range from the low teens to the upper 90s. I generally don't ride = when the temps are below 35. The next oil is going to be synthetic (let's = not get into that argument for now), and it's going to be AMSOIL. = = In my Concours, I ran 10w40 AMSOIL 100% Synthetic and had no problems (maybe = that's why I never had any cam chain tensioner problems). My inclination is = to run the same thing in the GTS. I run Mobil 1 15w50. If I'm doing a late fall or mid-winter oil change, I'll go to 10w40 in some synthetic, but it really doesn't get cold enough here to make cold starting viscosity a problem for me. Of course, I don't take the bike out much if it's in the 20s. :) Frankly, given the traffic and weather patterns here, I'm more concerned about heat damaging the oil when you get caught in a traffic jam for 45 minutes during a 75+ degree day in December. Mark "living in Virginia now" Bergman = = Feedback please. = = Regards, = = Henry S. Winokur = 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor = West Bethesda, MD = [50 lines of HTML deleted] Please, please, please make your mailer stop sending clear text _and_ the same message in HTML! -- Mark BergmanBiker, IATSE #1 Stagehand, Rock Climber, Unix mechanic '94 Yamaha GTS1000A [EMAIL PROTECTED] I want a newsgroup with a infinite S/N ratio! Now taking CFV on: rec.motorcycles.stagehands.pet-bird-owners.pinballers.unix-supporters 5+ So Far--Want to join? Check out: http://www.panix.com/~bergman
Re: Oil weight
Works for me. I use 10W30 or 15W40, I ride whenever I get a chance. Unfortunately not enough to warrant keeping the GTS right now. It may go up for sale soon. :( Louis "Henry S. Winokur" wrote: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02856.A153DC20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit What weight oil do you all use? I live in the DC area, where temperatures generally range from the low teens to the upper 90s. I generally don't ride when the temps are below 35. The next oil is going to be synthetic (let's not get into that argument for now), and it's going to be AMSOIL. In my Concours, I ran 10w40 AMSOIL 100% Synthetic and had no problems (maybe that's why I never had any cam chain tensioner problems). My inclination is to run the same thing in the GTS. Feedback please. Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD --=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02856.A153DC20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN" HTMLHEAD META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1" META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4207.2601" name=3DGENERATOR/HEAD BODY DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000FONT face=3DArialWhat weight oil = do you all=20 use?nbsp; I live in the DC area, where temperatures generally range = from the=20 low teens to the upper 90s.nbsp; I generally don't ride when the temps = are=20 below 35.nbsp; The next oil is going to be synthetic (let's not get = into that=20 argument for now), and it's going to be AMSOIL.nbsp; = /FONT/SPAN/DIV DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000FONT = face=3DArial/FONT/SPANnbsp;/DIV DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000FONT face=3DArialIn my Concours, = I ran 10w40=20 AMSOILnbsp;100% Syntheticnbsp;and had no problems (maybe that's why I = never=20 had any cam chain tensioner problems).nbsp; My inclination is to run = the same=20 thing in the GTS./FONT/SPAN/DIV DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000FONT = face=3DArial/FONT/SPANnbsp;/DIV DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000FONT face=3DArialFeedback=20 please./FONT/SPAN/DIV DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000FONT = face=3DArial/FONT/SPANnbsp;/DIV DIVSPAN class=3D900403611-27092000 DIVFONT face=3DArial size=3D2 DIVFONT face=3DArialRegards,/FONT/DIV DIVnbsp;/DIV DIVFONT face=3DArialHenry S. Winokur/FONT/DIV DIVFONT face=3DArial94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD//FONTFONT = face=3DArialMSF=20 Certified Instructor/FONT/DIV DIVFONT face=3DArialWest Bethesda,=20 MD/FONT/DIV/FONT/DIV/SPAN/DIV/BODY/HTML --=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02856.A153DC20--
RE: Oil weight
Like Mark, I run Mobil 1 15w50 year round. It has exceptional pumpability in lower temperatures which eliminates the need to switch to a lighter oil in the winter. Here's the deal on MIME attachments. Sometimes no matter what the client PC does in setting his MS Exchange or Outlook options to text only, the Exchange server will attach HTML to the message. Call up your provider who is running the Exchange Server (ver 5.5) and give him the following instructions. 1. Start the Microsoft Exchange Administrator program. 2. In the left pane of the window, click on "Connections" under the name of the server. 3. In the right pane, double click on "Internet Mail Service" and go to the "Internet Mail" tab. 4. In the "Message Content" section you will see "Attachments (Outbound)". MIME should be selected, but ONLY the "Plain Text" box should be clicked. NOT HTML!! Both Plain Text and HTML are clicked when MS Exchange Server is initially loaded. The administrator needs to unclick the HTML box. Congratulations! You now have your MCP in Exchange Server 5.5! :^) Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.geocities.com/~raddboy Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha GTS1000 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 12:04 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Oil weight I run Mobil 1 15w50. If I'm doing a late fall or mid-winter oil change, I'll go to 10w40 in some synthetic, but it really doesn't get cold enough here to make cold starting viscosity a problem for me. Of course, I don't take the bike out much if it's in the 20s. :) Frankly, given the traffic and weather patterns here, I'm more concerned about heat damaging the oil when you get caught in a traffic jam for 45 minutes during a 75+ degree day in December. Mark "living in Virginia now" Bergman [50 lines of HTML deleted] Please, please, please make your mailer stop sending clear text _and_ the same message in HTML!
RE: Oil and Bags
Actually it is 2 holes and they are required for a pair of stays that must go through each side of the fender. It is no big deal to do with a 1/4" drill bit. Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD Givi requires a hidden hole in the fender that is not visible unless you lay on your back and look up. I just had a full set, sides and top, installed by Givi personnel and am very satisfied with the mounting and the job they did.
Oil Use, Coolant Use
Gents, A note on the oil use at 20,000 miles. If you expect a bike, car, or other engine to maintain its integrity regardless of maintenance, severity of use, and climate you are confused. An engine well maintained with good oil, limited abuse ;) and operated under mild conditions will have fewer problems and last longer than one that's ridden hard from starts, has infrequent oil changes and operates in harsh climates, hot or cold. To say a motorcycle has to be ripped apart every 20,000miles is exaggerated. See the posters with over 100,000 miles and no problems. If someone came to me with guides, rings, or bearings worn by excess heat and limited lubrication I would expect this to be normal wear based on an engine that has been raced and not optimally maintained. My sister does this with her cars and after 30,000km they burn oil. As for the coolant loss there is a few tricks. A leakdown test on the cylinders will often identify leaking past the headgasket into the oil or coolant systems. A pressure test of the cooling system - pressure up the system and then start the bike with a gauge in place rather than the cap - will test for a leak between the cylinders and the cooling system. If the coolant is going into the oil directly you will get the milkshake affect in the oil.This should be evident through the inspection window. Oil in the coolant should show up in the coolant as the oil will float. The radcap is testable by a standard auto shop. I hope this helps a bit. Cheers. J
Delvac was: GTS oil comsumption
If truckers are willing to put this stuff in $75,000 motors and leave it in there for up to 25,000 miles , it has to be good. There are a couple reasons why large diesel engines run non synthetic oils-generally. My father drives tractor-trailers and also is a mechanical engineer (I know,,don't ask.) He knows the advantages of running synthetic lubricants. He uses Delvac because #1 he always gets a spinner oil filtration system on his trucks (filters down to one micron.) #2 because Caterpillar requires you to change the oil every 25,000 miles regardless if it is a synthetic or not. When you change 6-7 gallons of oil per change along with $15 worth of filters (at least, depends on which change it is) synthetic doesn't add up. He does however run synthetic fluids in the axles and transmission. I am not saying the Delvac oil isn't a good oil, just the big truck scenario doesn't mean much. I use Delvac in my John Deere, Caterpillar forklift, log splitter, and my WR (because Yamaha wants me to change the oil every 2.5 hours-what a joke.) Louis
GTS oil comsumption
I have used Yamalube 20/40, Mobil One Auto Oil 15/50, Mobil One Motorcycle 10/40, and finally Mobil Delvac 15/40 industrial extended drain conventional oil. Of all the oils I have used the bike used more Yamalube.The Mobil one motorcycle was the most expensive and the bike used less of it but became hard to shift and experienced clutch slippage. The Delvac is hands down the best. It cost $1.90 a quart, meets sg and sh specs, has twice the zinc in it that the mobil one motorcycle oil has, and my Gts shifts better than it ever has. This Delvac oil is made for severe service in both diesel and gas engines. It states that it is an excellent oil for power transmissions, and the mobil people told me it would work very well in motorbike applications. If truckers are willing to put this stuff in $75,000 motors and leave it in there for up to 25,000 miles , it has to be good. I have only had it in my bike for about 2000 miles , but it has not used a drop and the bike shifts better than it ever has. I am simply going by the ratings . Since Delvac covers Sg, Sh, and a host of other very tough ratings, it should work fine in the GTS. . I read the other day where a man had a Honda CBR900 with 200,000 miles on it and it was still running strong. It has never had a drop of synthetic oil in it, but the oil has been changed every three thousand miles, and it has used only sh/sg classification factory oil. I am not saying that synthetics are not good, but that perhaps they are not best when used in the GTS. I will report back to the list on the Mobil Delvac 1300 mineral in a few thousand miles. Check out Delvac 1300 oil on the Mobil web site. There are also some articles about motorcycle usage of Delvac 1300 that are very interesting. Alan Tooraen
Oil and Bags
Just when I thought that we all had bashed the different oils Motorcycle Consumer News has done a very good article on oils. Except they left out Amsoil. Ouch! I use it and it seems to do just fine. However I think it would do all good to find MC News article and read it. Also just read the posting about the guy that was selling his Krauser bags. I don't have any but I did not realize that you had to drill holes in the side covers. I won't like that. I would like to know of other brands that you could mount without drilling holes. Or is that possible? Ken Swartz
RE: Oil and Bags
Givi requires a hidden hole in the fender that is not visible unless you lay on your back and look up. I just had a full set, sides and top, installed by Givi personnel and am very satisfied with the mounting and the job they did. Paul K. 93 GTS -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 3:55 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject:Oil and Bags Just when I thought that we all had bashed the different oils Motorcycle Consumer News has done a very good article on oils. Except they left out Amsoil. Ouch! I use it and it seems to do just fine. However I think it would do all good to find MC News article and read it. Also just read the posting about the guy that was selling his Krauser bags. I don't have any but I did not realize that you had to drill holes in the side covers. I won't like that. I would like to know of other brands that you could mount without drilling holes. Or is that possible? Ken Swartz
Re: Oil and Bags
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Just when I thought that we all had bashed the different oils Motorcycle Consumer News has done a very good article on oils. Except they left out Amsoil. Ouch! I use it and it seems to do just fine. However I think it would do all good to find MC News article and read it. It was disappointing about Amsoil :(--Someone on the list mentioned an additive to replace wear inhibitors--was it John Hawke? Which additive was it and can you remind me why you prefer it? Also just read the posting about the guy that was selling his Krauser bags. I don't have any but I did not realize that you had to drill holes in the side covers. I won't like that. I would like to know of other brands that you could mount without drilling holes. Or is that possible? Very possible with the GIVI's only two slots in the under fender skirt--not any in the pretty plastic! Ken Swartz FL Kev __ Do You Yahoo!? Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com/
Re: OIL.... response to Hawke
The FJ is manufactured with pretty loose tolerances, compared to a water cooled engine, to avoid metal to metal between the aluminum piston and steel cylinders sleeves, which have different coefficients of expansion, to help avoid to tight a fit when engine gets hot. What tolerances are you referring to? Piston to wall clearance? There are many variables to consider, from an engineering stand point, on correct piston to wall clearance, piston diameter being one of the more important. Silicone content in a piston, and whether it is forged or cast, also must be considered, because they expand to different degrees. Check the clearance reccomendations for Wiseco pistons compared to stock, much greater clearance, for the same engine and cooling system. Facts from the 1993 Yamaha Technical Service Data microfiche: GTS Piston to wall clearance is 0.06 ~ 0.08 mm (0.0024~0.0031") Bore Size 75.5 1993 FJ1200AE Piston to wall clearance is 0.03 ~ 0.05 mm (0.0012~0.002") Bore size 77 mm One of the fixes, often used by FJ owners, is to raise the main needle and turn out the idle jets to enrich the fuel flow to engine at low speeds and idle. More fuel improves cooling. Idle mixture screws are adjustable by turning, jets are not adjustable. However, I agree, richer is cooler than lean. Some manufacturers also play with carb sync to keep the inner cyls cool. The gas tank is vented so excessive pressure build up will not occur. Yes, it is vented, if the tank is full, or close, the fuel can expand enough to overflow. If the carbs get too hot they would probably cause the vapor lock and the engine would want to start to diesel. Diesling happens after the engine is shut off. The fuel has to have a source of ignition, be it heat and compression (diesel) or spark. That is not what I am talking about. The float bowls are vented to allow atmospheric pressure into the float chamber. However, at the rate fuel expands, it will run out the overflow AND into the venturi and into the engine. I have seen carbs overflow, and, the engine runs rich, it does not diesel. BTW, has anyone seen a bona fide case of vapor lock in the last 20 years? I have only heard about it from people who were at a loss for any other explanation. The fuel has escape routes, through vents and also the needle jet. Don't know where it would lock, when it has possible exits. The same effect can happen with the tank removed and tuning the bike.with a vacuum meter. I having a fan running on the engine while tuning to avoids this from happening. it takes about 20 minutes at idle for too a high temperature to start to become a problem. 20 minutes to sync carbs? Hmm, loosing money on flat rate with that one. As the engine finally reaches a very hot condition it starts to slow down at idle, like you are letting the clutch out and causing drag. This binding effect is also very noticeable when trying to restart. I am notquestioning the symptom, that may be exactly what it sounds like. My point is, that is not what it is. As a humourous analogy only, it is like being a little pregnant. The starter has a hard time turning the engine over and it rotates at a much lower speed. Again like it is binding. Again, I do not disagree with the symptoms, just the diagnosis. Yamaha has long been known to have several bikes that exhibit this symptom, slow cranking when hot. The old Ventures were one that were famous for this. Again, many more factors are involved. For starters, and engine that is warmed up has more compression than a cold engine. Also, the starter motor itself, and its windings, are also hot, and, require more power to operate. Again my logic was very simpleless friction, less heat and less differential metal expansion to cause reduced tolerances. Actually, if the heat was causing the fuel flow to increase, it would have a more beneficial cooling effect than stalling effect on the FJ. My best guess...:) Your logic to a point is correct, less friction produces less heat, period. Where we differ is that you believe an engine can partially sieze, and then be perfectly ok after it cools off. A siezure in a motorcycle engine means metal has transferred from one part to another, be it piston to cylinder, crank bearing to crank, rod bearing to crank. As far as running rich cooling the motor, too much of a good thing is not better. Also, consider raw fuel in the venturi does not atomize hardly at all, so it goes into the cylinder as an unburnable liquid. If it were true that more fuel would help an engine run better, there would be no such thing as having a bike jetted overly rich. Optimum air to fuel ratio is 14.7:1. Vary from that ratio too far one way or the other, and performance will suffer.
OIL.... Henry's curiosity
RE: Henry's curiosity From: "Henry S. Winokur" [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Motor Cycle Oils Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Synthetic oils are more slippery and they can cause clutches in some bikes to slip under heavy loads, it doesn't happen to all bikes and is somewhat rider dependent. If you don't have a clutch slippage problem using it...use it. It is a better protective oil under high loads and high temperatures. The comment that Mobil 1 20w-50w is not 20W-50W after 500 miles is correct. What is not said is that this is true of any motor oil. I'm curious how you know this stuff? Do you work for Mobil Oil? Henry, Being a mechanical engineer, lubricants have always been of interest. I both read a lot on the topic and use my own empirical testing to verify. No I don't work for Mobil, but I have spoken to various Mobil and other people in the field over the years. I find most of the industry people really know very little about MC oil and simply are more marketing oriented, often simply stating what they publish in marketing literature as being the only truth.I don't think they spend a lot of time or money testing for performance results in MC's The clutch slipping is both empirical and a frequent topic of discussion on other MC lists. I found it took a few thousand miles on the FJ for Mobil 1 alone to cause the clutch to slip, changing back to non- synthetic and it stopped slipping. I over came the problem by increasing the clutch spring load and sticking with the Mobil 1. Mobil 1 also stopped the FJ overheating problems in stop and go traffic. With conventional oil it would virtually start to stall out as the engine parts would expand and get close to seizing. With Mobil 1 this does not occur. Empirically it simply showed me it was a better lubricant at high temperatures and verifying other test reports. More slippery is based on the clutch slippage problem and also, it you hook up your bike to an electronic tuning tach and simply change one thing...the oil and restart the engine you will find an increase of over 100 RPM occurs at idle speeds. That again is only based what I have experienced. The logical conclusion I reach is that the change is from reduced friction. since laboratory tests show that Mobil 1 is more viscous, the increase RPM is not from a reduction in viscosity. Which also makes sense since synthetic oil has a higher film strength from it's longer molecular chains. What happens is that in all oils, they quickly loose some of the higher viscosity performance from engine heat and shear. What he did not say is that under numerous independent tests, Mobil1 stands up better and looses less performance characteristics than just about any commercial oil, including AMSOIL. Not according to Amsoil. Viscosity Index of Amsoil is 157 compared to Mobil's 170. Amsoil is probably a great MC oil and equal to Mobil 1 in many categories. I am not against using Amsoil in anyway. Mobil 1 is easy for me to buy since it is widely marketed. I've never tried Amsoil. From : http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm Motorcycle Consumer News Amsol was not run in this particular test but I have seen it run in other and it was not as good as Mobil 1 in holding it's viscosity. TAKEN FROM ABOVE ARTICLE.. Relative Viscosity Retention(as a percentage of initial viscosity retained after normal use in the same motorcycle) 0 miles 800mi 1500mi Mobil 1 100%86.6% 83.0% Castrol Syntec 100%78.1% 74.5% Castrol GTX 100%72.2% 68.0% Honda HP4 100%69.2% 65.6% Spectro 4 100% 68.0% 63.9% .The viscosity of synthetic-based oils generally drops more slowly than that of petroleum-based oils in the same application. 2.Comparing these figures to viscosity retention for the same oils when used in an automobile (see later text by Prof. Woolum) would indicate that motorcycles are indeed harder on oils than cars. 3.The fastest and most significant drop in the viscosity of petroleum-based oils used in motorcycles occurs during the first 800 miles (or less) of use.All of these results (1-3) agree with everything the oil companies have been telling us all along. However, the same test data also indicates that: 4.The viscosities of petroleum-based oils, whether designed for auto or motorcycle application, drop at approximately the same rate when used in a motorcycle. 5.There is no evidence that motorcycle-specific oils out-perform their automotive counterparts in viscosity retention when used in a motorcycle. One of the advantages I have always founds with Mobil 1 20-50w is that the transmission seems to like it better. It makes for smoother shifting than most other oils. As any motor oil ages and l
RE: AMSOIL Motorcycle OIL
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --_=_NextPart_001_01BFF011.11C1547A Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Info I got from Amsoil indicates that the High-Performance Synth. 20w-50 does not have the same friction modifiers (an additive) that the Series 2000 20w-50 does. So they recommend for air-cooled bikes with wet clutches to use the Hi-Perf instead. The info sheet seems to refer only to Harleys and other air-cooled bikes. However, I do use the Series 2000 20w-50 in my GTS with no problems. Funny thing is, my 93 GTS manual recommended SE grade motor oil, and SE had ALREADY been obsolete by 93. (I think 88/89 was when SF came out). When I switched from Mobil 1 to Amsoil Series 2000, my gas milage when up about 8%. Go figure. -Original Message- From: Motorcycle [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 5:31 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: RE: AMSOIL Motorcycle OIL every now and then I have time to responded to this list and I hope that what I have to say is of interest. three years ago I called Castrol in the UK because I had a question about the use of a new oil they had just brought out. It was a new GTX and they told me to get it out of my engine ASAP. After doing a bit of research, the bottom line is this. a few years ago under pressure of various governments and auto makers, the industry made slicker and slicker oils to reduce friction and increase mileage in cars and trucks. these oils are fine for engines but not for clutch plates. they will cause the plates to slip. It may not happen to you but it will happen enough that the industry is trying to make oils that will work better for the different needs of a motorcycle than a car. Now, think about this. do some research on oils and polymer chains and long polymer chains and the different effect a smooth surface like a cylinder wall has on it as opposed to gears with teeth. think about agitation also. once you consider all of this, you see why not all the motorcycle specific oil issues are hypes to get your money. Please remember if you have a dry clutch or it is separate from the engine oil like the moto guzzi, then you really have no problem. you use engine oil in the engine and a different oil in the gear box. I once asked why we still have the engine oil going through the gear box on modern bikes but I guess that is like asking why most bikes still have front forks. Mike Coan www.warmnsafe.com Home of the Heat-troller www.ttg-global.com Motorcycle Travel Site -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Louis Tweed Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 7:31 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: AMSOIL Motorcycle OIL This new trend to make "motorcycle specific" oils pisses me off. Mobil 1 pissed me off in Daytona when their guys wouldn't give me a clear answer when I asked them if they made the new motorcycle mobil 1 because the regular mobil 1 wasn't up to the task. Their answere in a nutshell was: "regular mobil 1 is up to the task, but if you pay 20K for a motorcycle don't you want the "best" oil available? F*(%^ them!! I've decided not to run Mobil oils in any of my equipment. I was going to change to Amsoil (I've used them in the past with good results.) but what are they admitting when they have to make a motorcycle specific oil when all along they have been saying their regular oil was the best thing?!?! Louis - confused and pissed "Henry S. Winokur" wrote: AMSOIL now has a synthetic oil specifically for motorcycles. One formulated for V Twins (20w-50) and the other for 4 cycle (10w-40). Thought you'd like to know. Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD --_=_NextPart_001_01BFF011.11C1547A Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN" HTML HEAD META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1" META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version = 5.5.2650.12" TITLERE: AMSOIL Motorcycle OIL/TITLE /HEAD BODY PFONT SIZE=3D2Info I got from Amsoil indicates that the = High-Performance Synth. 20w-50 does not have the same friction = modifiers (an additive) that the Series 2000 20w-50 does.nbsp; So they = recommend for air-cooled bikes with wet clutches to use the Hi-Perf = instead.nbsp; The info sheet seems to refer only to Harleys and other = air-cooled bikes./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2However, I do use the Series 2000 20w-50 in my GTS = with no problems.nbsp; Funny thing is, my 93 GTS manual recommended SE = grade motor oil, and SE had ALREADY been obsolete by 93.nbsp; (I think = 88/89 was when SF came out)./
Re: OIL.... Henry's curiosity
Nuf said. Grant Gall John Laurenson wrote: RE: Henry's curiosity From: "Henry S. Winokur" [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Motor Cycle Oils Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Synthetic oils are more slippery and they can cause clutches in some bikes to slip under heavy loads, it doesn't happen to all bikes and is somewhat rider dependent. If you don't have a clutch slippage problem using it...use it. It is a better protective oil under high loads and high temperatures. The comment that Mobil 1 20w-50w is not 20W-50W after 500 miles is correct. What is not said is that this is true of any motor oil. I'm curious how you know this stuff? Do you work for Mobil Oil? Henry, Being a mechanical engineer, lubricants have always been of interest. I both read a lot on the topic and use my own empirical testing to verify. No I don't work for Mobil, but I have spoken to various Mobil and other people in the field over the years. I find most of the industry people really know very little about MC oil and simply are more marketing oriented, often simply stating what they publish in marketing literature as being the only truth.I don't think they spend a lot of time or money testing for performance results in MC's The clutch slipping is both empirical and a frequent topic of discussion on other MC lists. I found it took a few thousand miles on the FJ for Mobil 1 alone to cause the clutch to slip, changing back to non- synthetic and it stopped slipping. I over came the problem by increasing the clutch spring load and sticking with the Mobil 1. Mobil 1 also stopped the FJ overheating problems in stop and go traffic. With conventional oil it would virtually start to stall out as the engine parts would expand and get close to seizing. With Mobil 1 this does not occur. Empirically it simply showed me it was a better lubricant at high temperatures and verifying other test reports. More slippery is based on the clutch slippage problem and also, it you hook up your bike to an electronic tuning tach and simply change one thing...the oil and restart the engine you will find an increase of over 100 RPM occurs at idle speeds. That again is only based what I have experienced. The logical conclusion I reach is that the change is from reduced friction. since laboratory tests show that Mobil 1 is more viscous, the increase RPM is not from a reduction in viscosity. Which also makes sense since synthetic oil has a higher film strength from it's longer molecular chains. What happens is that in all oils, they quickly loose some of the higher viscosity performance from engine heat and shear. What he did not say is that under numerous independent tests, Mobil1 stands up better and looses less performance characteristics than just about any commercial oil, including AMSOIL. Not according to Amsoil. Viscosity Index of Amsoil is 157 compared to Mobil's 170. Amsoil is probably a great MC oil and equal to Mobil 1 in many categories. I am not against using Amsoil in anyway. Mobil 1 is easy for me to buy since it is widely marketed. I've never tried Amsoil. From : http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm Motorcycle Consumer News Amsol was not run in this particular test but I have seen it run in other and it was not as good as Mobil 1 in holding it's viscosity. TAKEN FROM ABOVE ARTICLE.. Relative Viscosity Retention(as a percentage of initial viscosity retained after normal use in the same motorcycle) 0 miles 800mi 1500mi Mobil 1 100%86.6% 83.0% Castrol Syntec 100%78.1% 74.5% Castrol GTX 100%72.2% 68.0% Honda HP4 100%69.2% 65.6% Spectro 4 100% 68.0% 63.9% .The viscosity of synthetic-based oils generally drops more slowly than that of petroleum-based oils in the same application. 2.Comparing these figures to viscosity retention for the same oils when used in an automobile (see later text by Prof. Woolum) would indicate that motorcycles are indeed harder on oils than cars. 3.The fastest and most significant drop in the viscosity of petroleum-based oils used in motorcycles occurs during the first 800 miles (or less) of use.All of these results (1-3) agree with everything the oil companies have been telling us all along. However, the same test data also indicates that: 4.The viscosities of petroleum-based oils, whether designed for auto or motorcycle application, drop at approximately the same rate when used in a motorcycle. 5.There is no evidence that motorcycle-specific oils out-perform their automotive counterparts in viscosity retention when used in a motorcycle. One of the advantages I have always founds with Mobil 1 20-50w is that the transmission see
Re: AMSOIL Motorcycle OIL
This new trend to make "motorcycle specific" oils pisses me off. Mobil 1 pissed me off in Daytona when their guys wouldn't give me a clear answer when I asked them if they made the new motorcycle mobil 1 because the regular mobil 1 wasn't up to the task. Their answere in a nutshell was: "regular mobil 1 is up to the task, but if you pay 20K for a motorcycle don't you want the "best" oil available? F*(%^ them!! I've decided not to run Mobil oils in any of my equipment. Remember who you're talking to. They are marketing pukes who are staffing a booth at a trade show (effectively). They will say anything which will put their products in a favorable light. If you get with an engineer, you'll get the straight poop. But barring that, look at the reviews in Motorcycle Consumer News. Objective, well thought out. And they say Mobil 1 is fine for bikes. I use it in all my vehicles. And not the bike-specific stuff for 3 times the money. (oh, apologies to any marketing people on this list. Anyone who has a GTS is clearly more intelligent and discerning than the average run-of-the-mill marketing pukes) -K == Kelly Cash Direct: 408-845-5762 Sr. Systems Engineer Main: 408-845-5700 Solid Data Systems FAX: 408-727-5496 2945 Oakmead Village Court [EMAIL PROTECTED] Santa Clara, CA 95051 www.soliddata.com ==
RE: AMSOIL Motorcycle OIL
When I switched from Mobil 1 to Amsoil Series 2000, my gas milage when up about 8%. Go figure. When I switched from AMSOIL 10w-40 to Series 2000 in our 95 Ford Windstar and 95 Saab9000 the mileage went up 4-6%--which I don't find surprising. I had been told that was one of the benefits. Never used the Series 2000 in the Concours. Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD
AMSOIL Motorcycle OIL
AMSOIL now has a synthetic oil specifically for motorcycles. One formulated for V Twins (20w-50) and the other for 4 cycle (10w-40). Thought you'd like to know. Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD
Re: AMSOIL Motorcycle OIL
Louis wrote: This new trend to make "motorcycle specific" oils pisses me off. Hummm...I probably shouldn't go here, but... I am of the understanding that because of the variables of engine requirements that are based on operation, differents oils should meet those needs. Diesels tend to run hotter, motorcycles run at higher rpms and often have their transmissions running in the same oil, lawnmowers that never get their oil changed (oops!), etc. etc. I guess the flip side to this would be only 1 kind of oil on the shelve, you know, a 'one size fits all' bottle. Additives are generally the only difference in oils, basically they all start from the same stuff. (Here it comes, parafin based-ash based, etc...) But generally speaking, the additives are what keep it from foaming, shearing, breaking down, clogging passages, cleaning off residue and, oh yeah, lubricating the moving parts. Oil today is more specifically oriented and designed to meet the needs of particular engines. In the past, you got SAE 30, non-detergent, 'this works in everything' oil. And since the engines _were_ much simpler, that worked. Today, we have multi-valved, dual cammed, turbo-charged, fuel injected high output motors. They all require something slightly different to 'cover' their needs. But, here is one last thing. When I used to work in the oil industry at one time, the old question that continues to be asked, has one answer. "My car is out of oil, is this the right oil for this vehicle?" Well...if the difference is going to be _NO_ oil or _any_ oil, I would definitly go with the 'any' oil. I know that that is not most of our positions here, but it does hold true. :^) Cheers, Brandon
Re: AMSOIL Motorcycle OIL
And while I have to agree that a motorcycle specific oil might be a good idea, why tell us that your regular oil is good enough when you know it needs a motorcycle specific oil??? And if it does need a specific oil to be used inside a shared case design engine (engine and trans) than why hasn't a standard been developed? These motorcycle engines aren't anything new--I mean we didn't just start building the transmision as part of the engine? Why has it taken this long to develop these "new" oils? Why are the motorcycle oils so much more money than the auto/diesel oils? If the base is the same, how much more expensive can the motorcycle additives be than the diesel or marine use additives? Louis P.S. Mobil 1 rep told me at Daytona that the regular mobil 1 synthetic 20W50 oil used in a motorcycle is not a 20W50 oil after 500 miles or less. I am of the understanding that because of the variables of engine requirements that are based on operation, differents oils should meet those needs. Diesels tend to run hotter, motorcycles run at higher rpms and often have their transmissions running in the same oil, lawnmowers that never get their oil changed (oops!), etc. etc. I guess the flip side to this would be only 1 kind of oil on the shelve, you know, a 'one size fits all' bottle.
Re: AMSOIL Motorcycle OIL
Louis, all their saying is "there's money to be made and we will tap into it come hell or high water" and "there's a bunch of dummies out there that would gladly pay more for less". I've used auto Amsoil for years on motorcycles with very good results (no burning of oil even on the GTS at high RPMs no clutch slippage). Their filters on the other hand I do not use. BTW thank you very much for volunteering your house for us to crash in but Marcia I already have made our hotel reservations. I sure would enjoy to see you though so please send me your phone number and I'll give you a call for specifics. Maybe we can get that Grefe character to join us.if his girlfriend allows it that is. George looking for love in all the wrong places PS Henry Kiko too bad you want be around but not to worry I'll catch up with you next time _NetZero Free Internet Access and Email__ http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
RE: engine oil
I've been using Amsoil synthetic in the GTS for years, I just switched over to Royal Purple 15w40 synthetic.Have any list members used this product or heard anything about it ? Why would you switch from a perfectly good product to one you know nothing about, without at least investigating it first? Regards, Henry S. Winokur 94 GTS1000, AMA, MRF, MD/MSF Certified Instructor West Bethesda, MD
RE: engine oil
--- "Crisler, Jon" [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: snip Regarding oil: My GTS has 22k miles, and used about 4 ounces of oil every 1000k miles with Mobil 1 15w-50. When I switched to Amsoil 20-w50, oil use went to about 1-2 ounces every 1000k miles. How does this level of oil consumption compare to other GTS ? snip I noticed a drop in consumption when I switched back to Amsoil--I don't keep such accurate track of the amount though. I normally do not have to add between oil changes anymore, that's how I noticed... Fl Kev __ Do You Yahoo!? Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com/
RE: engine oil
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --_=_NextPart_001_01BFE699.C8FD55B6 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I would normally have to add about 8 ounces after 2k miles, so I would have to add oil once per oil change. 8 ounces seems to be the difference between full and having the oil light come on. By the way, I was told by my Yamaha dealer that the light is BOTH and oil level and oil pressure. They said they called Yamaha tech support to determine that. Can anybody verify this ? I do not remember anything in my manuals that says exactly how it works. -Original Message- From: Kevin Harrington [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 11:41 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: RE: engine oil --- "Crisler, Jon" [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: snip Regarding oil: My GTS has 22k miles, and used about 4 ounces of oil every 1000k miles with Mobil 1 15w-50. When I switched to Amsoil 20-w50, oil use went to about 1-2 ounces every 1000k miles. How does this level of oil consumption compare to other GTS ? snip I noticed a drop in consumption when I switched back to Amsoil--I don't keep such accurate track of the amount though. I normally do not have to add between oil changes anymore, that's how I noticed... Fl Kev __ Do You Yahoo!? Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com/ --_=_NextPart_001_01BFE699.C8FD55B6 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN" HTML HEAD META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1" META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version = 5.5.2650.12" TITLERE: engine oil/TITLE /HEAD BODY PFONT SIZE=3D2I would normally have to add about 8 ounces after 2k = miles, so I would have to add oil once per oil change.nbsp;nbsp; 8 = ounces seems to be the difference between full and having the oil light = come on./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2By the way, I was told by my Yamaha dealer that the = light is BOTH and oil level and oil pressure.nbsp; They said they = called Yamaha tech support to determine that.nbsp;nbsp; Can anybody = verify this ?nbsp; I do not remember anything in my manuals that says = exactly how it works./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2-Original Message-/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2From: Kevin Harrington [A = HREF=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]/A]/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 11:41 AM/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2To: Multiple recipients of list/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Subject: RE: engine oil/FONT /P BR BR PFONT SIZE=3D2--- quot;Crisler, Jonquot; = lt;[EMAIL PROTECTED]gt; wrote:/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; snip/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; /FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; Regarding oil:nbsp; My GTS has 22k miles, and = used about/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; 4 ounces of oil every/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; 1000k miles with Mobil 1 15w-50.nbsp; When I = switched to/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; Amsoil 20-w50, oil use/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; went to about 1-2 ounces every 1000k = miles.nbsp;nbsp; How/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; does this level of oil/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; consumption compare to other GTS ?/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; /FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2snip/FONT /P PFONT SIZE=3D2I noticed a drop in consumption when I switched = back/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2to Amsoil--I don't keep such accurate track of = the/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2amount though.nbsp; I normally do not have to add = between/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2oil changes anymore, that's how I noticed.../FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Fl Kev/FONT /P PFONT = SIZE=3D2__/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Do You Yahoo!?/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites./FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2A HREF=3D"http://invites.yahoo.com/" = TARGET=3D"_blank"http://invites.yahoo.com//A/FONT /P /BODY /HTML --_=_NextPart_001_01BFE699.C8FD55B6--
Re: engine oil
It's only oil low. Check with a different dealer that is knowledgeable
engine oil
I've been using Amsoil synthetic in the GTS for years, I just switched over to Royal Purple 15w40 synthetic.Have any list members used this product or heard anything about it ?
Re: oil changing
I always drain my oil with the bike on the sidestand to get as much of the old oil out as possible. Then I put the thing on the centerstand before removing the old oil filter. Of course I leave it on the centerstand when re-filling. Hugh On 19 Jun 2000, at 22:33, Jason Kaplitz wrote: I changed my oil tonight and have a question to propose to the group. If you tilt the GTS over (leaning on one leg of the center stand) while draining the oil you will get considerably more (a 1/2 pint) oil to drain out than if you just let the bike sit on the center stand. Snip
Re: oil changing
I just changed oil and all I did was put the bike on 6the side stand with a warm engine. Seemed to work fine. MB - Original Message - From: Jason Kaplitz [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 4:33 AM Subject: oil changing I changed my oil tonight and have a question to propose to the group. If you tilt the GTS over (leaning on one leg of the center stand) while draining the oil you will get considerably more (a 1/2 pint) oil to drain out than if you just let the bike sit on the center stand. Do you think this extra drainage is necessary or is it over kill? Why isn't there a drain on the bottom of the sump? to get all the oil sludge out? Jason cog #62
oil changing
I changed my oil tonight and have a question to propose to the group. If you tilt the GTS over (leaning on one leg of the center stand) while draining the oil you will get considerably more (a 1/2 pint) oil to drain out than if you just let the bike sit on the center stand. Do you think this extra drainage is necessary or is it over kill? Why isn't there a drain on the bottom of the sump? to get all the oil sludge out? Jason cog #62
Re: Oil Level Warning Light
A trick I learned on my 24 hr rally's' or any other all day ld riding is: observe the level in the window when the engine is idling. You will notice as soon as you start the engine the level drops below the sight glass giving credence to Bill's theory. I fill so the level is midway in sight glass with engine idling. Granted it is probably overfilling somewhat, but it lengthens the inevitable when riding long distances at speed- usually add ~ every 800 mi rather than 400-500 miles. You can also get from most auto parts stores this flexible hose with a hose like cap which screws right on to any qt of oil. Even has a twist mechanism to turn on/off and a plug for the other end. Fits right in the elastic bands with a quart of oil on inside lid of my Krausers. -- Dave Biasotti // Fremont, CA Dir of Procurement, LSI Logic Corp 93 GTS-1000 // 83 Honda CX650Turbo wghalley wrote: I suspect what's happening is that the engine is "storing" some oil in the cam/rocker gallery, especially at higher RPM. Many engines do this - pump more oil to the rockers under pressure than can drain back by gravity - so there is enough at low RPM. If the sump level isn't maxed out and the engine temporarily moves some from the sump to the head, the oil level sensor, which measures the sump, triggers. Still annoying! I carry my extra oil in an 8 oz. juice bottle - the "straw" makes adding oil easier. Bill
Re: Oil Level Warning Light
We've been around on this one before, but I've noticed one thing about my bike, which is curious to say the least. My oil level light seems to be prone to coming on right after I shut the bike off briefly. I can ride with a full tank, no oil light for 200 or so miles, then stop for gas, and sure enough, right after getting back on the hiway it starts again. Maybe it's my imagination, but it always seems to be more likely to come on after sitting for a short period. If I ride for a day and then park the bike for a longer time frame, days or weeks, and then start it, there doesn't seem to be this issue. Is there somewhere in the engine that oil "goes" when you turn off a hot engine? Am I just imagining this? I can't figure out why it would happen, and it could be one of those "perceived correlations" with no basis in reality. Phil
RE: Oil Level Warning Light
Two words--(well, one word, one number...) ISO 9000!! --- "Loss, Joe" [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: snip I have always been amused/annoyed by the symbol used on the engine light. It shows what looks like an inline 4 cylinder car engine! snip __ Do You Yahoo!? Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com
Re: Oil Level Warning Light
On Mon, 24 Apr 2000, S. Bodnar wrote: Anyone have the pleasure of the light going on during cruising at 60-70 MPH ? Oil level is OK 3/4 up the window. I am using the 36 size Amsoil filter with 10-50 BelRay full synthetic. Remember something about oil control problems on Hi mileage FZR motors but only have 26K on this one. Thanks, It comes on all the time, esp with high speed runs. At least you know it is a oil level light, not a pressure light as I thought when I first saw it (it took an hour for the papitations to quit). The light is very excitable and will come on long before you really need oil. Just top it up and ride on. Take care, Mike -- Michael Weaver (706)542-6468 [EMAIL PROTECTED] UCNS Network Specialist LAN Support Group University of Georgia, Athens Ga. )O( Public PGP key: http://www.arches.uga.edu/~weaver/pgp.html
Re: Oil Level Warning Light
Yes, seems most of us on this list have had that initial "ohmagawd" reaction to this little light. I for one still have trouble riding the bike when the light is on, even though I know what it is and what it indicates. However, one thing I've wanted to know--I'd much rather have an oil pressure light than an oil level light. I can check level on my own, but total (or near total) loss of oil pressure would be a major concern to me. So, if the oil pump failed catastrophically (I know, I can't remember the last time I saw this on any vehicle), would SOME light come on to tell me there was a problem? Perhaps the engine light? I'd really feel better knowing that.the ambiguity of the oil light is why I can't seem to get myself to be comfortable with the light being on while I'm riding. Phil On Tue, 25 Apr 2000, Michael Weaver wrote: On Mon, 24 Apr 2000, S. Bodnar wrote: Anyone have the pleasure of the light going on during cruising at 60-70 MPH ? Oil level is OK 3/4 up the window. I am using the 36 size Amsoil filter with 10-50 BelRay full synthetic. Remember something about oil control problems on Hi mileage FZR motors but only have 26K on this one. Thanks, It comes on all the time, esp with high speed runs. At least you know it is a oil level light, not a pressure light as I thought when I first saw it (it took an hour for the papitations to quit). The light is very excitable and will come on long before you really need oil. Just top it up and ride on. Take care, Mike -- Michael Weaver (706)542-6468 [EMAIL PROTECTED] UCNS Network Specialist LAN Support Group University of Georgia, Athens Ga. )O( Public PGP key: http://www.arches.uga.edu/~weaver/pgp.html
Re: Oil Level Warning Light
On Tue, 25 Apr 2000 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: So, if the oil pump failed catastrophically (I know, I can't remember the last time I saw this on any vehicle), would SOME light come on to tell me there was a problem? Perhaps the engine light? I'd really feel better knowing that.the ambiguity of the oil light is why I can't seem to get myself to be comfortable with the light being on while I'm riding. Your warning would likely be the seizure of the engine. There is no pressure sender or indicater that I'm aware of. Take care, Mike -- Michael Weaver (706)542-6468 [EMAIL PROTECTED] UCNS Network Specialist LAN Support Group University of Georgia, Athens Ga. )O( Public PGP key: http://www.arches.uga.edu/~weaver/pgp.html
Re: Oil Level Warning Light
Stan; The oil level light coming on is one of the complaints of the GTS. Most of us have had the light come on as you did when the level was within the high and low marks shown in the manual. It is a level sensor and not a pressure sensor so it doesnt mean anything. Usually they wont come on at that low speed, it usually takes a 85 and up speed get the light on if the level is down a little. Bob
Re: Oil Level Warning Light
I suspect what's happening is that the engine is "storing" some oil in the cam/rocker gallery, especially at higher RPM. Many engines do this - pump more oil to the rockers under pressure than can drain back by gravity - so there is enough at low RPM. If the sump level isn't maxed out and the engine temporarily moves some from the sump to the head, the oil level sensor, which measures the sump, triggers. Still annoying! I carry my extra oil in an 8 oz. juice bottle - the "straw" makes adding oil easier. Bill
Oil Level Warning Light
Anyone have the pleasure of the light going on during cruising at 60-70 MPH ? Oil level is OK 3/4 up the window. I am using the 36 size Amsoil filter with 10-50 BelRay full synthetic. Remember something about oil control problems on Hi mileage FZR motors but only have 26K on this one. Thanks, Stan
Oil leak...
I took the bike out last week for a quick spin, the first in about a month. Bad weather hasn't allowed for any riding. (Salt Lake mucho cold and icey!) Anyway, got back to the house and discovered that the valve cover gasket appeares to be leaking, on the left side, or the kickstand side. The bike only has about 17k miles on it. Its a '93, but still Has anyone else had this problem? Is it going to be a pain to fix? I usually do most of the work on my bike myself, but I kind of have a feeling that I'm going to have to strip a bunch of stuff off first. Oh well, thank goodness I can bring it into the living room to work on. (Not currently married or living with anyone. And the cats think that its cool to jump up on!) Oh yeah. No riding until its fixed! (Sorry Alan, thats why I didn't call you back the other day! I discovered it on Thursday. And was out of town on the weekend. Maybe on the next weather break?) Brandon
RE: Oil leak...
Might as well take the opportunity to get it's first valve adjustment. The dealer will want to replace the original valve cover gasket at that time anyway. Although the original rubber gasket can typically be re-used with the help of a little RTV (liquid gasket) around the edges. Make sure you don't leave a glob towards the inside of the cover as it will harden and fall into the valve train. You might also want to replace the washers for the valve cover screws. Removing all the side plastic still leaves things pretty tight in there, but not too bad. Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC AMA #609423 // [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.geocities.com/~raddboy Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha GTS1000 -Original Message- From: Brandon [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2000 3:54 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Oil leak... I took the bike out last week for a quick spin, the first in about a month. Bad weather hasn't allowed for any riding. (Salt Lake mucho cold and icey!) Anyway, got back to the house and discovered that the valve cover gasket appeares to be leaking, on the left side, or the kickstand side. The bike only has about 17k miles on it. Its a '93, but still Has anyone else had this problem? Is it going to be a pain to fix? I usually do most of the work on my bike myself, but I kind of have a feeling that I'm going to have to strip a bunch of stuff off first. Oh well, thank goodness I can bring it into the living room to work on. (Not currently married or living with anyone. And the cats think that its cool to jump up on!) Oh yeah. No riding until its fixed! (Sorry Alan, thats why I didn't call you back the other day! I discovered it on Thursday. And was out of town on the weekend. Maybe on the next weather break?) Brandon
Re: Oil Filter wrenches
In a message dated 12/9/99 5:06:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Come on guys, I'm trying to keep my warranty coverage, of course I torque it on! I for one, believe you. RSRBOB
Re: Oil Filter wrenches
Come on guys, I'm trying to keep my warranty coverage, of course I torque it on! -- From: Crisler, Jon [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Oil Filter wrenches Date: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 5:33 PM Torque it on ??? Hand tight only !! Its a filter, not an axle bolt !!
RE: Oil Filter wrenches
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --_=_NextPart_001_01BF4298.B53F962E Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" This topic is just torque'n me off !! -Original Message- From: Louis E Tweed [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 5:17 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Oil Filter wrenches to what, pray tell? I tork mine to .50 tpc (turns past contact). :) Louis On Thu, 9 Dec 1999 16:43:32 -0500 (EST) "Kevin T. Harrington" [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Come on guys, I'm trying to keep my warranty coverage, of course I torque it on! ___ Why pay more to get Web access? Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW! Get your free software today: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. --_=_NextPart_001_01BF4298.B53F962E Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN" HTML HEAD META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1" META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version = 5.5.2650.12" TITLERE: Oil Filter wrenches/TITLE /HEAD BODY PFONT SIZE=3D2This topic is just torque'n me off !!/FONT /P PFONT SIZE=3D2-Original Message-/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2From: Louis E Tweed [A = HREF=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]/A]/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 5:17 PM/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2To: Multiple recipients of list/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Subject: Re: Oil Filter wrenches/FONT /P BR PFONT SIZE=3D2to what, pray tell?nbsp; I tork mine to .50 = tpcnbsp; (turns past contact). :)/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Louis/FONT /P PFONT SIZE=3D2On Thu, 9 Dec 1999 16:43:32 -0500 (EST) quot;Kevin = T. Harringtonquot;/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2lt;[EMAIL PROTECTED]gt; writes:/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; Come on guys, I'm trying to keep my warranty = coverage, of course I /FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; torque/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; it on!/FONT /P BR PFONT = SIZE=3D2___= /FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Why pay more to get Web access?/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if = you act NOW!/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Get your free software today: A = HREF=3D"http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj" = TARGET=3D"_blank"http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj/A./FONT /P /BODY /HTML --_=_NextPart_001_01BF4298.B53F962E--
Re: Oil Filter wrenches
As I sit back here and peruse these notes, I find it AMAZING how much can be said about the changing of oil filters I've changed mine at LEAST 50+ times so far (same bike) and never once even thought about it, didn't realize there was a science to it - the only oil loss I ever got was through the rings... which are being replaced as soon as they are delivered to the shop next week (hopefully)... just plum wore 'em out I guess. Just enjoyin' the ride, - T === Thomas H. Keyworth http://www.jps.net/keyworth http://www.district37ama.org http://www.abate.org/local23 http://www.jpt-promotions.com === -Original Message- From: Loss, Joe [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Thursday, December 09, 1999 4:20 PM Subject: RE: Oil Filter wrenches |So far we've had 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 turns recommended. I don't want to be |pedantic but I believe the correct fraction of a turn is 3/4 for standard |oil filters. See http://home.wxs.nl/~jerico/lu-7.html as an example. | |Cheers Joe. | |-Original Message- |From: Louis E Tweed [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] |Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 3:17 PM |To: Multiple recipients of list |Subject: Re: Oil Filter wrenches | | |to what, pray tell? I tork mine to .50 tpc (turns past contact). :) |Louis | |On Thu, 9 Dec 1999 16:43:32 -0500 (EST) "Kevin T. Harrington" |[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: | Come on guys, I'm trying to keep my warranty coverage, of course I | torque | it on! | | |___ |Why pay more to get Web access? |Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW! |Get your free software today: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. |
Re: Oil Filter wrenches
for the stock filter forget the # of turns its 12 foot lbs. torque, for the Amsoil 3/4-1 full turn will do it. that will cover just about all filters for all vehicles. Stan -- From: Loss, Joe [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Oil Filter wrenches Date: Thursday, December 09, 1999 7:11 PM So far we've had 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 turns recommended. I don't want to be pedantic but I believe the correct fraction of a turn is 3/4 for standard oil filters. See http://home.wxs.nl/~jerico/lu-7.html as an example. Cheers Joe. -Original Message- From: Louis E Tweed [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 3:17 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Oil Filter wrenches to what, pray tell? I tork mine to .50 tpc (turns past contact). :) Louis On Thu, 9 Dec 1999 16:43:32 -0500 (EST) "Kevin T. Harrington" [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Come on guys, I'm trying to keep my warranty coverage, of course I torque it on! ___ Why pay more to get Web access? Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW! Get your free software today: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
RE: Oil Filter wrenches
On Tue, 7 Dec 1999, Crisler, Jon wrote: This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. Bother MIME format! A bad idea that won't go away... Does this universal end-cap wrench work well ? Any danger of it crushing the filter ? Will it fit the small filter of the GTS ? How about a big filter like on my Suburban ? I'm quite fond of it, although I typically only use it on the GTS. I suppose if you really honked on it, and the filter was really stuck, it could crush the filter, but I doubt it. It is for small filters only, I don't think it would fit the Condominum (suburban). It doesn't fit the Buick's filter, for example. I use it only because the headers get too hot. I can usually hand loosen the filters on all my vehicles, unless my wife gets the oil changed at a 'jiffy'lube. Take care, Mike -- Michael Weaver (706)542-6468 [EMAIL PROTECTED] UCNS Network Specialist LAN Support Group University of Georgia, Athens Ga. )O( Public PGP key: http://www.arches.uga.edu/~weaver/pgp.html
Re: Oil Filter wrenches
What do you guys use to torque them back on? Is there anything that adjusts and is thin enough to put a torque wrench on? I'm not sure I'm bright enough to calcualte the adjustment if I use the strap thingy... I currently use a specific end cap but it won't fit but one filter (Yamaha). Help me Mr. Wizards! Kev -- From: Michael Weaver [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Oil Filter wrenches Date: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 8:41 AM On Tue, 7 Dec 1999, Crisler, Jon wrote: This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. Bother MIME format! A bad idea that won't go away... Does this universal end-cap wrench work well ? Any danger of it crushing the filter ? Will it fit the small filter of the GTS ? How about a big filter like on my Suburban ? I'm quite fond of it, although I typically only use it on the GTS. I suppose if you really honked on it, and the filter was really stuck, it could crush the filter, but I doubt it. It is for small filters only, I don't think it would fit the Condominum (suburban). It doesn't fit the Buick's filter, for example. I use it only because the headers get too hot. I can usually hand loosen the filters on all my vehicles, unless my wife gets the oil changed at a 'jiffy'lube. Take care, Mike -- Michael Weaver (706)542-6468 [EMAIL PROTECTED] UCNS Network Specialist LAN Support Group University of Georgia, Athens Ga. )O( Public PGP key: http://www.arches.uga.edu/~weaver/pgp.html
RE: Oil Filter wrenches
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --_=_NextPart_001_01BF41CA.CC345366 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Torque it on ??? Hand tight only !! Its a filter, not an axle bolt !! -Original Message- From: Kevin T. Harrington [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 5:10 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Oil Filter wrenches What do you guys use to torque them back on? Is there anything that adjusts and is thin enough to put a torque wrench on? I'm not sure I'm bright enough to calcualte the adjustment if I use the strap thingy... I currently use a specific end cap but it won't fit but one filter (Yamaha). Help me Mr. Wizards! Kev -- From: Michael Weaver [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Oil Filter wrenches Date: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 8:41 AM On Tue, 7 Dec 1999, Crisler, Jon wrote: This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. Bother MIME format! A bad idea that won't go away... Does this universal end-cap wrench work well ? Any danger of it crushing the filter ? Will it fit the small filter of the GTS ? How about a big filter like on my Suburban ? I'm quite fond of it, although I typically only use it on the GTS. I suppose if you really honked on it, and the filter was really stuck, it could crush the filter, but I doubt it. It is for small filters only, I don't think it would fit the Condominum (suburban). It doesn't fit the Buick's filter, for example. I use it only because the headers get too hot. I can usually hand loosen the filters on all my vehicles, unless my wife gets the oil changed at a 'jiffy'lube. Take care, Mike -- Michael Weaver (706)542-6468 [EMAIL PROTECTED] UCNS Network Specialist LAN Support Group University of Georgia, Athens Ga. )O( Public PGP key: http://www.arches.uga.edu/~weaver/pgp.html --_=_NextPart_001_01BF41CA.CC345366 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN" HTML HEAD META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1" META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version = 5.5.2650.12" TITLERE: Oil Filter wrenches/TITLE /HEAD BODY PFONT SIZE=3D2Torque it on ???nbsp;nbsp; Hand tight only !! Its a = filter, not an axle bolt !! /FONT /P PFONT SIZE=3D2-Original Message-/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2From: Kevin T. Harrington [A = HREF=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]/A]/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 5:10 PM/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2To: Multiple recipients of list/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Subject: Re: Oil Filter wrenches/FONT /P BR PFONT SIZE=3D2What do you guys use to torque them back on?nbsp; Is = there anything that/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2adjusts and is thin enough to put a torque wrench = on?nbsp; I'm not sure I'm/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2bright enough to calcualte the adjustment if I use = the strap thingy...nbsp; I/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2currently use a specific end cap but it won't fit = but one filter (Yamaha). /FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Help me Mr. Wizards!/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Kev/FONT /P PFONT SIZE=3D2--/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; From: Michael Weaver = lt;[EMAIL PROTECTED]gt;/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; To: Multiple recipients of list = lt;[EMAIL PROTECTED]gt;/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; Subject: RE: Oil Filter wrenches/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; Date: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 8:41 = AM/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; /FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; On Tue, 7 Dec 1999, Crisler, Jon wrote:/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; gt; This message is in MIME format. Since your = mail reader does not/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2understand/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; gt; this format, some or all of this message = may not be legible./FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; /FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; Bother MIME format! A bad idea that won't go = away.../FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; /FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; gt; Does this universal end-cap wrench work = well ?nbsp; Any danger of it/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2crushing/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; gt; the filter ?/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; gt; Will it fit the small filter of the GTS = ?nbsp; How about a big filter like/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2on my/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; gt; Suburban ?/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; /FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; I'm quite fond of it, although I typically only = use it on the GTS. I/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; suppose if you really honked on it, and the = filter was really stuck, it/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; could crush the filter, but I doubt it. /FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; /FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2gt; It is for small filters only, I don't think it = would fit the
re: fresh oil on oil filter gasket
In a message dated 12/8/99 9:15:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I put a film of fresh oil on the gasket, spin it on until it snugs up, then give it a quarter turn. I thought it was better to use old oil on the gasket, but I don't remember why. Anyone? Fred Grefe
Oil Filter wrenches
Hey, I found a 'end cap' style universal filter wrench at AutoZone that has two spring loaded jaws that grip the filter from the end. It has a 3/8" hole on the end that you can put an extension and a ratchet on. Works like a charm, even on a hot motor. Mike -- Michael Weaver (706)542-6468 [EMAIL PROTECTED] UCNS Network Specialist LAN Support Group University of Georgia, Athens Ga. )O( Public PGP key: http://www.arches.uga.edu/~weaver/pgp.html
RE: Oil Filter wrenches
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --_=_NextPart_001_01BF4101.0BFA902A Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Michael, thats what I needed the other day !!, but my local autozone did not have it at the time. I really sweated out getting a filter off of a Acura Integra with a strap-type wrench. Does this universal end-cap wrench work well ? Any danger of it crushing the filter ? Will it fit the small filter of the GTS ? How about a big filter like on my Suburban ? -Original Message- From: Michael Weaver [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 2:49 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Oil Filter wrenches Hey, I found a 'end cap' style universal filter wrench at AutoZone that has two spring loaded jaws that grip the filter from the end. It has a 3/8" hole on the end that you can put an extension and a ratchet on. Works like a charm, even on a hot motor. Mike -- Michael Weaver (706)542-6468 [EMAIL PROTECTED] UCNS Network Specialist LAN Support Group University of Georgia, Athens Ga. )O( Public PGP key: http://www.arches.uga.edu/~weaver/pgp.html --_=_NextPart_001_01BF4101.0BFA902A Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN" HTML HEAD META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1" META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version = 5.5.2650.12" TITLERE: Oil Filter wrenches/TITLE /HEAD BODY PFONT SIZE=3D2Michael, thats what I needed the other day !!, but my = local autozone did not have it at the time.nbsp; I really sweated out = getting a filter off of a Acura Integra with a strap-type = wrench./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2Does this universal end-cap wrench work well ?nbsp; = Any danger of it crushing the filter ?/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Will it fit the small filter of the GTS ?nbsp; How = about a big filter like on my Suburban ?/FONT /P PFONT SIZE=3D2-Original Message-/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2From: Michael Weaver [A = HREF=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]/A]= /FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 2:49 PM/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2To: Multiple recipients of list/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Subject: Oil Filter wrenches/FONT /P BR PFONT SIZE=3D2Hey,/FONT /P PFONT SIZE=3D2I found a 'end cap' style universal filter wrench at = AutoZone that has two/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2spring loaded jaws that grip the filter from the = end. It has a 3/8quot; hole/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2on the end that you can put an extension and a = ratchet on. /FONT /P PFONT SIZE=3D2Works like a charm, even on a hot motor. /FONT /P PFONT SIZE=3D2Mike/FONT /P PFONT SIZE=3D2-- /FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Michael Weavernbsp; = (706)542-6468nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; [EMAIL PROTECTED]/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2UCNS Network = Specialistnbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; = LAN Support Group/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2University of Georgia, Athens = Ga.nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; )O(/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Public PGP key: A = HREF=3D"http://www.arches.uga.edu/~weaver/pgp.html" = TARGET=3D"_blank"http://www.arches.uga.edu/~weaver/pgp.html/A/FONT /P /BODY /HTML --_=_NextPart_001_01BF4101.0BFA902A--
RE: Oil Filter Wrench
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --_=_NextPart_001_01BF4103.1E56CA98 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Terry, I have four different sizes of strap wrenchs, but I do not think any of them would fit the GTS. Besides, you can actually get one of those in there without removing the headpipes ? I do not think I couldthats why I always use the end-cap style with a 3/8 socket wrench and extenstion. Now, I have had to use the screwdriver into the side method, but that is a last resort. -Original Message- From: Baker Terry-P27739 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 11:31 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Oil Filter "Wrench" I use a "strap wrench"--that's not the brand name, but describes what it is. It's a square metal tube that fits over your 1/2" drive ratchet and has a strap in a loop at the other end. Put the strap over the end of the oil filter, wind up the tube until the strap is tight, hook up the ratchet, and wrench. It's really pretty simple and one tool fits all oil filters. On the GTS, the tube is long enough that it gets the ratchet out away from the exhaust pipes. I've found it convenient and there's my .02 worth. Terry Baker --_=_NextPart_001_01BF4103.1E56CA98 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN" HTML HEAD META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; = charset=3Diso-8859-1" META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version = 5.5.2650.12" TITLERE: Oil Filter quot;Wrenchquot;/TITLE /HEAD BODY PFONT SIZE=3D2Terry, I have four different sizes of strap wrenchs, = but I do not think any of them would fit the GTS.nbsp; Besides, you = can actually get one of those in there without removing the headpipes = ?nbsp; I do not think I couldthats why I always use the end-cap = style with a 3/8 socket wrench and extenstion./FONT/P PFONT SIZE=3D2Now, I have had to use the screwdriver into the side = method, but that is a last resort./FONT /P PFONT SIZE=3D2-Original Message-/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2From: Baker Terry-P27739 [A = HREF=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"mailto:Terry_Baker-P277= [EMAIL PROTECTED]/A]/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 11:31 AM/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2To: Multiple recipients of list/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2Subject: Oil Filter quot;Wrenchquot;/FONT /P BR PFONT SIZE=3D2I use a quot;strap wrenchquot;--that's not the = brand name, but describes what it is./FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2It's a square metal tube that fits over your = 1/2quot; drive ratchet and has a/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2strap in a loop at the other end.nbsp; Put the = strap over the end of the oil/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2filter, wind up the tube until the strap is tight, = hook up the ratchet, and/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2wrench.nbsp; It's really pretty simple and one tool = fits all oil filters.nbsp; On/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2the GTS, the tube is long enough that it gets the = ratchet out away from the/FONT BRFONT SIZE=3D2exhaust pipes.nbsp; I've found it convenient and = there's my .02 worth./FONT /P PFONT SIZE=3D2Terry Baker/FONT /P /BODY /HTML --_=_NextPart_001_01BF4103.1E56CA98--
RE: OIL CONSUMPTION
PAID 12.500 DUTCH GUILDERS FOR IT. NO ABS AND NO PANNIERS.(BIKE BOXES) MICHEL.-- From: Michael Esfeld[SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 6:08 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: RE: OIL CONSUMPTION Just out of curiousity, what did you pay for your bike? I'm looking at one in my area. On Monday, October 25, 1999 3:54 AM, Korterik, M.P. - SPLKK [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] wrote: OIL CONSUMPTION, JUST BECAME THE PROUD OWNER OF A FOR FOR ME NEW GTS WHICH WAS BORN IN 94. AND 35 K ON THE METER. I WAS ALLARMED BY THE OIL LIGHT AFTER ONLY 500 K. IT USES ABOUT 1 LTR. EVERY 2500 K. IS THIS A NORMAL CONSUMPTION OR SHOULD I BE WORRIED, THERE IS NO SIGN OF LEAKING ANY WHERE ON THE ENGINE.. I THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR REPLYS. MICHEL.
Re: OIL CONSUMPTION
Probably so. Yamaha's spec for oil consumption is 1 litre per 1000 miles (1609 km). You are below that level. The previous owner probably ran synthetic oil in it too soon, so the rings never seated. It is not something that adversely affects the longevity of the engine, in fact, it may help it. The additional top end lubrication may reduce wear even more. It may however be a less efficient since the rings are not sealing properly. This difference is probably only detectable on a dyno, however. The solution to this would be to hone your cylinders and re ring them. RSRBOB
Re: OIL CONSUMPTION
DON'T SWEAT IT TOO MUCH. ALL gtses SEEM TO USE A CERTAIN AMOUNT OF OIL, SOME MORE THAN OTHERS. MANY THEORIES. ARE YOU GETTING BLUE SMOKE ACCOMPANYING IT? IF NOT, JUST KEEP AN EYE ON IT. LOUDLY, :) KURT OIL CONSUMPTION, JUST BECAME THE PROUD OWNER OF A FOR FOR ME NEW GTS WHICH WAS BORN IN 94. AND 35 K ON THE METER. I WAS ALLARMED BY THE OIL LIGHT AFTER ONLY 500 K. IT USES ABOUT 1 LTR. EVERY 2500 K. IS THIS A NORMAL CONSUMPTION OR SHOULD I BE WORRIED, THERE IS NO SIGN OF LEAKING ANY WHERE ON THE ENGINE.. I THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR REPLYS. MICHEL.
RE: OIL CONSUMPTION
I do not know, but steel is not normally used, iron is Not sure why exactly. Sometimes aluminum is used, or aluminum with something called Nikasel, but that is rare since Nikasel cannot be bored/honed, since it is a surface prep like case-hardening or anodizing. I was told by many bike mechanices that oil consumption on bikes is normally much higher than what you would find on a car, due to the rpm's and more spirited accel. 1 quart every 1500-2000 miles was considered normal on new late model bikes of various types. Was I being fed a line ? My GTS uses about 1 quart every 3500 miles. -Original Message- From: Louis E Tweed [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 3:22 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: OIL CONSUMPTION I have a question. Are the cylender linings in the GTS steel or something else? (The other types have slipped my mind at the moment.) Louis is probably only detectable on a dyno, however. The solution to this would be to hone your cylinders and re ring them. RSRBOB ___ Get the Internet just the way you want it. Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
Re: amsoil oil filter
A point to consider, especially if you're going to an oversize oil filter: after you change the oil filter hit the kill switch and crank the engine a few revs to pump oil into the filter. Prevents those few seconds at startup without oil pressure. Don't forget to turn the switch back on or you'll be trying to diagnose a "no start" in the morning rush to ride to work or similar opportune moment. Bill -Original Message- From: Crisler, Jon [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Friday, October 15, 1999 10:13 AM Subject: RE: amsoil oil filter snip put in the biggest filter that will fit.
