Re: [h-cost] theater opera costumes in general

2005-11-24 Thread Kate M Bunting
Yes, I think sometimes a history play is costumed as a later period to make the 
audience  aware of the similarities with the political situation in an era that 
they're more familiar with (if that makes sense).

I remember enjoying the BBC TV Shakespeare production of All's Well that Ends 
Well set in the mid-17th century, with beautiful Vermeer-like interiors and 
military scenes based on paintings of the period.

The only opera I've seen in modern dress was a production of Aida at the 
Brighton Festival, with the male leads in modern military uniform. Radames 
rather spoiled the effect by wearing his Sam Browne belt incorrectly! I can 
understand Bjarne's disappointment, but, as AlbertCat points out, should 
correct dress for Monteverdi be authentic classical costume or a reproduction 
of Baroque theatrical costume?

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24/11/2005 04:42 
Mmm, I'm always impressed by McKellen's Richard III set in a 1930s dictatorship,

-C.


 That's a very strange notion to take a HISTORY and put it in ANOTHER  PERIOD.




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[h-cost] OT - pin cushion

2005-11-24 Thread Kitty Felton
I think sheeps wool is the best stuff for stuffing, has enough natural 
oil to allow pins and needles to slide in and out easily, and keeps the 
pins and needles from rusting as well.


Fiber fill seems to stop pins from sliding into the cushion a lot of 
times, but wool doesn't do this.  our ancestors used fine saw dust also.


Kitty



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[h-cost] dates of knitted mitt, and vest?

2005-11-24 Thread Stephanie Smith

 the child's knitted vest and mitten, not a set as I
 remember, are 1300's. (Dated from the context of the
dig.)
 However, I will be making proper notes next week and
will pass them on.

The BBC has these as 1500's: 

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/in_pictures/4457602.stm

assuming these are the same knitted mitten and vest
you saw, Suzi, and not a different set.  Also, if
these are, the vest is knitted?!?  I can't tell that
from the photograph, and that (16th cen, let alone
14th!) would be excitingly early for a knitted
body-garment!

Stephanie



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[h-cost] Plays and operas in different periods

2005-11-24 Thread Cheryldee
For me, a professional costume designer as well as a costume designer in  
education, it is always more fun to place a well-known play in a different  
period that the period in which it was written.  But I speak  selfishly.  It 
needs 
to be made clear, here that it works best with  well-known classics such as 
Shakespeare, Moliere, or the Greek and  Roman plays.  If the theme relates well 
to a different time in history,  then it seems to work very well.  Even the 
Shakespearean plays weren't  placed in period at their time but in a curious 
mismash of the Elizabethan  interpretation of, say, Roman with Renaissance 
interpretation including doublets  and hose.  And I think a play or opera from 
the 
Baroque period would be  great fun if it was designed in the style of the 
opera costumes of Baroque  period, although, as it was pointed out previously, 
those weren't period,  either, but appear rather strange to the contemporary 
eye.  I have a  British director that I design for who always insists on the 
period, Darling,  of course, without considering the possibilities.  So we've 
had a  Macbeth in 12th century or so Scotland (fun, anyway because the 
research was  so much fun plus, given that we built 90% of the show a pretty 
easy 
time due to  the T-shape construction methods of the time).  She wanted 
Hamlet in the  period, Darling, but the budget and time constraints 
wouldn't have 
allowed for  it, so she was talked into an Erte look with Early Jacobean 
touches.  That  said, some of the most fun I have had as a designer have been 
the 
following  plays placed out of period:
 
Romeo and Juliet-French Directoire
Measure for Measure-Antebellum New Orleans
As You Like It-1960's Hippies vs. Jet Setters
Taming of the Shrew-California Gold Rush
Pericles-Vague Gypsy
Midsummer Night's Dream-An all white court in Renaissance Doublets for  the 
men, pseudo-Greek draperies for the ladies and a host of Punk-inspired  
fairies (sounds dreadful, but worked very well)
 
I also recall a Tempest at Yale back in the '70's which took place on  
Mars, a Measure for Measure at the Royal Shakespeare in Stratford set in the  
18th Century (wonderful production), and a very bad Twelfth Night at the 
Young 
 Vic set in the 1930's (it wasn't the costumes which made it bad, it was the  
stage direction)
 
And I'm sure there are many more that skip my mind as I rattle off this  
email.  Sometimes it's done because time and budget constraints don't allow  
for 
the actual period, sometimes because the director wants to visit the play  in 
a new play.  After it's all over and done, the question to ask is did  the 
chosen play/opera/ballet support the playwright's, etc. original  vision?  If 
it 
didn't, then I would say the choice is not particularly  successful.
 
Long post, between bread (rising), pies (in the oven) and stuffing (next on  
my list)
 
Happy Thanksgiving to all of the Americans on this list, and Peace on Earth  
to all of us.
 
Cheryl Odom
College of Santa Fe
 
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[h-cost] Re:Tudor Costumes

2005-11-24 Thread Kathy Page
This isn't my period per se, but something jumped out
at me in this group of sources you have listed. I
don't know if you listed them together for the same
reason they caught my attention, however I thought I
would make the observation. 
Most of these women are quite pregnant. That I suspect
explains the closure oddities. 
Forgive me for jumping in part way into this thread, I
haven't been following it. I have Alcega, which Fat
woman pattern do you want - there are several.
Frankly, they look no different than the not-fat woman
patterns. I think its accounting for greater fabric
usage, nothing more. The major difference between a
large woman and a regular woman, for the most part
anyway, is the depth of the armscye. I think most plus
women have regular frames which makes their shoulders
narrow, but the larger girth (as much as I hate that
word in this context) makes it harder to get those
curves to meet up.
Often I will buy a shirt pattern that fits my
shoulders and add in the extra from bust to hip so
that the critical fitting is already done. 

I could be completely off base from the intended
topic, so I digress.

Interestingly though, because they are pregnant, the
lacing is quite wide and appears to be that ladder
lacing well known amongst the later era Venetians. One
has to wonder if this is the genesis for that style?
Having a slightly opened bodice showing the lacing and
chemise, suggesting fertility? That style of bodice
closure appears in Venice not long after their first
round with the plague, they employed any number of
visual illusions to imply ample fecundity right about
that time.

Kathy

That's why I was really interested to
 see the Alcega layout 
 for a fat woman.
  
 Here's what I've found so far for depictions of
 fastening:
  
 Front of overgown tied shut, no depiction of
 undergown fastening, but is 
 not front-fastened
 Elizabeth Dauncey, 1526-8,
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/dauncey.jpg
 Cecilia Heron, 1527,
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/cecilia.jpg
 Margaret Grigg, 1527,
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/holb5.jpg
 More Family, 1527,
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/morefamily.jpg
 More Family, 1593 copy,
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/moregirls.jpg


ItÂ’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is 
an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to 
receive it.
-Ivan Panin






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Re: [h-cost] Apparently the 1990's are Now Considered Period Costume

2005-11-24 Thread Jean Waddie
Ooh yeah!  Let's start complaining about anachronistic low-rise jeans 
!


Jean


Karen R Bergquist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

http://www.nytimes.com/2005/11/20/magazine/20style_90s.html#articleBodyLi
nk
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--
Jean Waddie
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Re: [h-cost] Apparently the 1990's are Now Considered Period Costume

2005-11-24 Thread Lavolta Press
1990s are vintage?  At least it means most of us can dress in real 
authentic vintage just by mining the back of the closet.


Fran
Lavolta Press  Books on Vintage Clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com




Karen R Bergquist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

http://www.nytimes.com/2005/11/20/magazine/20style_90s.html#articleBodyLi 


nk




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[h-cost] RE: theater opera costumes in general

2005-11-24 Thread Debloughcostumes
I just think that period designs have as much a chance at being awful and  
irrelevant as modern designs.

Of course they do - bad design is just bad design.  Just as good design is 
good design, whether period or modern.

(as an aside, my college costume tutor used to tell a wonderful story about 
how she'd put bias cut panels into a boned bodice for an opera (the theory 
being that it would make it easier to take a big breath) when she was a 
student, 
and her tutor, (Janet Arnold, no less), made her take it apart and start again, 
because 'it's wrong, and if you're going to make it historically you should 
make it properly'.)
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Re: [h-cost] Apparently the 1990's are Now Considered Period Costume

2005-11-24 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 11/24/2005 3:49:18 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Ooh  yeah!  Let's start complaining about anachronistic low-rise jeans  
!




 
 
Hahahaha! Or black clothes!
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Re: [h-cost] victorian corset with too short busk

2005-11-24 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 11/24/2005 7:47:59 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Jean  Hunnisett would use hooks and eyes at the top of a short busk,  



***
 
I put it at the bottom, because if there is a crinkle or lump there because  
of it, it ends up under the petticoat and skirt. [I might put it at the top 
for  Bustle or later, since there's usually some fru-fru or buttons around the  
bust area in those periods and the hip area might be fitted and smooth.] I 
just  run a bone long enough to go from top to bottom right next to the  busk.
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[h-cost] I am new!

2005-11-24 Thread Quebelle


Hi,

I am from German and look for victorian dressmaking- can you help me?

Greetings from Hamburg

Yours Silvia



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