Re: [h-cost] costume photos
Yes, that is quite obvious. However, as a business owner you might consider that the people on this list are your target consumers. It is a well known fact that consumers often purchase where they feel they are treated respectfully. I know I have switched dry cleaners not because of how my clothes were cleaned (both did an admirable job there), but because of their customer service. You may be alienating many people who would have otherwise purchased your goods. Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Look, I don't live for the approval of email lists, OK? I coule care less if people think I'm nicey-nice. Fran Beteena Paradise wrote: I think everyone gets your point. Too bad the point couldn't have been made in a manner which was a bit less off-putting. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] copyright
I agree that this discussion has gone on long enough, but... No library determines US copyright law. What you are describing is merely the policy of your particular library. Fran I don't know what Kinko's is, but in a university library copying of a section of a book (1 chapter or 5%) for private study is perfectly legal. Kate Bunting Cataloguing Data Quality Librarian University of Derby Being in the UK, ours observes British copyright law! Sorry if I confused the issue. Kate ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Reintroduction...yes, I'm back! (long)
Hello all, dear, dear people on this list! I don't know if _anyone_ will remember me. I joined h-costume in 1996 and have actually been on it ever since. When Eric Praetzel needed the 1997 archives for his archive page at http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/, I supplied them... so that's me, just for reference. I lived in Berlin, Germany at the time, and it's now over 5 years ago that I announced that I was going to become a h-costume member from Melbourne, Australia. ... and that I have been since then... but I've been silent. Now, I guess I'll have to explain why! As the archives were online along with my old e-mail address (which was barbara at math dot tu dash berlin dot de), the address was soon pretty much useless. It got harvested by e-mail address collectors and I suspect it became part of a virus kit, because it obviously became the nominal (fake) sender address of virus e-mails that I, needless to say, never sent (reading my e-mail mostly with a text-based interface on unix-like systems). I used to have a pretty clear picture at that time what viruses where currently around, from the number of 'reply' e-mails that I got that an e-mail of 'mine' (that I had never sent) had contained a virus. So, I've been reluctant to post since then. In fact, this is my special 'h-costume' mailing address now. Now I'm back and I'm happy to read so many familiar names, still! I believe I have only met one member of this list in person -- Bjarne, we once sat together in a cafe in Kopenhagen. You showed me pictures of your embroidery and I showed you pictures of someone else's embroidery (namely that of the gold embroderers of Buchara, Uzbekistan). So now, I live in Melbourne, Australia, and a move across countries like this does have its difficulties, it can also limit one's creativity a bit. But September was costuming month. My daughter's school turned 120 years, and the kids were supposed to dress up old-fashioned. The school gave some hints on how to do that, and I browsed my 1887 dress pattern catalogues and found the hints were all wrong. In fact, I had a hard time finding an 1887s 7 y.o. girl's costume that would clearly stand out as 'old-fashioned' and could not have been worn today as well, at least by little girls. Knee-length skirts and ruffles never went away for girls, I believe. In the end, I tried to make a costume a bit like Alice's in the original illustrations of Through the Looking Glass, in particular a dress apron which I am really proud of, after instructions from the Workwoman's Guide, by a Lady. (Okay okay -- that's 1838, but Alice wears one!) (And she is from 1865, I know -- but at least that way you can tell that it's an 'old-fashioned' costume!) Then, only a few days later, my church staged an event where we all dressed up as people from the 16th century and all travelled from our church to the Immigration Museum, where a 'German Fest' was on and one of us, as 'Martin Luther', nailed '95 theses' to a door which we had supplied ourselves. (The idea was that the other visitors were invited to afterwards write down their own theses on 'what does the church need today?' and nail them to the same wall.) At least of that event, I can point to a few photos: at http://www.kirche.org.au/index.php?id=104. Now, I'm ashamed to have to say... I still don't own a dressmaker's dummy and doubt I'll ever find one that's adjustable to my size. But if I had one... I wish I already knew what would be on there. I will be getting married. Yes, and for the very first time in my life. I already have a daughter and am getting married for the very first time in my life! And it relly feels like The big event that I have been waiting for! The relationship with her father went to pieces, but now I have met this wonderful, chaotic, intelligent, lazy, lovable guy who is actually saying he wants to stay with me for the rest of his life! We will have one (formal) marriage celebration in Germany and one (religious one) here. And it's approaching way too fast. The date is early January, and I also work full time and have a lot of other commitments. In fact, I feel like I want to retreat and do nothing else for the next three months than prepare the party. And the biggest question is, what will we wear? He does live-acting role play, has seen the costumes I make and has now made up his mind that he will want to get married in an 1830s suit. Now, I have never made something like that, and his idea on that is also very vague, so I'm looking for patterns now. Where can I get patterns for an elegant 1830s mens' suit? And for myself? Before the idea of a wedding in historical costumes came up, I had already fallen in love with burda pattern 8199 (http://www.burdamode.com/Brautmode,1270778-1128998-1005430-1157072,deDE.html; or, with English text: http://www.fjoelner.dk/vismonster.asp?vare=6834la=ukuart=167) which to my eyes seems delightfully eclectic and for that very reason not historic, but modern. I see
RE: [h-cost] Re: repurposed fabric...repurposing in the 1940s
Six years!?! It would have been out of style. At least, that's what I would have claimed! :-) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 4:06 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Re: repurposed fabric...repurposing in the 1940s Still the best book in my collection of sewing and fashion books is the 1940s home dressmakers' book by Pocket Books. This little dynamo of 100-odd pages from a time when a Pocket Book would still fit in a pocket shows a dozen different stitches, odd techniques, clever cheats, and gives descriptions that are superior to any I have read elsewhere. The highlight of the book, really, is how to make new things from old such as the chapter on how to turn your husband's old suit into a stylish new outfit for you. It demonstrates how to dis-assemble the suit and lay a new pattern over the old pieces and really is a very clever thing. My only qualm would be the kind of sentence that must have rung out across the world in 1946: Darling, I am home from 6 long years in the military and I just cannot wait to get out of this uniform and into my good old... -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Kinko's
Kinko's is also very strict on copyrighted material. They actually moved their location away from our university. When I was a student, there were forms in our textbook that we were supposed to copy for lessons. Our instructor, who authored our textbook, wrote a letter and even visited Kinko's and gave permission for her students to copy the forms. Kinko's would not accept her permission to copy the forms. They stated that the textbook's publisher had to get formal permission. Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com www.costumelibrary.com www.costumeclassroom.com www.costumeencyclopedia.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] costume photos
In a message dated 10/4/2007 10:03:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: So it sounds like I'm ok, since I work for an educational institution, huh? Sylrog Sylvia, There are ready-made sets available. They aren't cheap, but they save you all the trouble. Check out _http://www.slidepresentationsdvd.com/_ (http://www.slidepresentationsdvd.com/) I'm sure such an investment depends on many times you or your institution intend this class to be taught, but it seems to me it might be well worth while. Ann Wass ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Repurposing fabric in the 1940s
At 03:06 05/10/2007, you wrote: Six years!?! It would have been out of style. At least, that's what I would have claimed! :-) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 4:06 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Re: repurposed fabric...repurposing in the 1940s Still the best book in my collection of sewing and fashion books is the 1940s home dressmakers' book by Pocket Books. This little dynamo of 100-odd pages from a time when a Pocket Book would still fit in a pocket shows a dozen different stitches, odd techniques, clever cheats, and gives descriptions that are superior to any I have read elsewhere. The highlight of the book, really, is how to make new things from old such as the chapter on how to turn your husband's old suit into a stylish new outfit for you. It demonstrates how to dis-assemble the suit and lay a new pattern over the old pieces and really is a very clever thing. My only qualm would be the kind of sentence that must have rung out across the world in 1946: Darling, I am home from 6 long years in the military and I just cannot wait to get out of this uniform and into my good old... My mother remade my Dad's Royal Air Force uniforms into shorts and shirts for my brother in the late 40's or early 50's. and my Dad was still in the Air Force. Thing was, he got promoted to an officer, and all his uniforms had to be replaced. So there was all this lovely Air Force blue wool going to waste... I collect the odd sewing book, and have a lovely wartime book on how to make do and mend clothes that have moth holes, have shrunk etc. And I remember wool knit jumpers being unravelled, the wool washed, and new things made. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
- Original Message - From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-cost [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 5:14 AM Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing? I'm bored with the medical, trademarks copyrights discussions. Any chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic? Please? What's your dressmakers dummy wearing? --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] well, it's not sufficiently assembled to be worn by my dummy but I'm currently working on a mid 1850s day dress, which may also become a mourning dress (it's black so I'll just add accessories) if my friend actually gets around to setting a date for the 'mourning' themed housewarming party she said she started talking about nearly 6 months ago. So right now my dummy is wearing nothing but a petticoat (and a sheer one at that :-o) Elizabeth Walpole | Elizabeth Beaumont Canberra, Australia | Politarchopolis, Lochac http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
Re the copyright question, what if the book you are copying from isn't in print any longer and someone across the country wants a pic from it and you own it. Is it ok to send a copy since someone wouldn't want to send their book across the country to someone they didn't now well, not to mention the postage costs? And how would you get permission to do said copy? Write to the publisher? What if it's a privately published pamphlet? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lavolta Press Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 2:10 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing? Rickard, Patty wrote: Congratulations on being close to the end of your project The end is relative, especially as a book printer will have it for at least two months after I finish with it. I'll announce it on h-costume when it is available for sale. and stretching yourself to do it (only an assumption, based on your saying it was your hardest project). I don't enjoy doing things that aren't hard, or where I'm not learning anything. Best, Fran ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Union suits - was: What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
I looked on ebay and they have union suits between $10 and $20. :) Catherine Kinsey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That is assuming I can find enough union-suit type underwear for the second act. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
My DD is currently disassembled and up on a shelf (in a bag) where it is a favorite cat napping spot for one of our feline kids. The DD in my head is currently planning out costumes for a local community theater production of Gross Indecency: The Three Trials of Oscar Wilde in January. I love a director who plans ahead for period pieces :). Budget is limited so we will do a lot of repurposing from thrift store finds and probably save the $$, and sewing time, for OW's wardrobe. That is assuming I can find enough union-suit type underwear for the second act. Handsewing is still my favorite to do but it is increasing limited by arthritis. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: more on tea gowns
I sent the following on the first, but didn't see it on the list. If it made it there, please forgive me missing it. I am really looking forward to your help Ann On 10/1/07, ann marie [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Fran and Kathleen wrote about the tea gown for the Belle Epoque (thank you for not reminding me of my spelling error) period. For your further guidance, I will be a visitor at a hotel where the event is held. I am, ahem, not a young girl, nor likely to fool anyone that I will be near that age again, but I am divorced. Given this information, and the additional concern that this is not in my home, nor am I a guest of someone else, what should I do to be appropriately dressed? Thank you for all of the information about the beautiful gowns! Did the exhibition of gowns have a catalog? I will be looking at purchasing the referenced books, but do not wish to embarrass myself in my enthusiasm. Are there specific references to the service of tea that will help me learn a bit more? Ann -- What wisdom can you find that is not greater than kindness? - Jean Jacques Rousseau -- What wisdom can you find that is not greater than kindness? - Jean Jacques Rousseau ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: repurposed fabric...repurposing in the 1940s
In a message dated 10/5/2007 8:02:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Six years!?! It would have been out of style. At least, that's what I would have claimed! :-) And how many men would have cared about a suit's being 6 years out of style? Real examples-- My grandmother made me a winter coat from a Harris tweed man's suit--not sure how she got the suit. (My grandfather was long gone by then) And my brother cut up my mom's gold satin blouse to use for some kind of backdrop on his model railroad. He saw it wadded up in the basement and thought it was fair game. Since the damage was already done, I also used some for doll clothes. (Satin wasn't common in our household.) Ann Wass PS I had a home ec. textbook from WWII--it also recommended unraveling an old sweater and re-using the yarn. ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Repurposing fabric in the 1940s
My mother remade my Dad's Royal Air Force uniforms into shorts and shirts for my brother in the late 40's or early 50's. and my Dad was still in the Air Force. Thing was, he got promoted to an officer, and all his uniforms had to be replaced. So there was all this lovely Air Force blue wool going to waste... I collect the odd sewing book, and have a lovely wartime book on how to make do and mend clothes that have moth holes, have shrunk etc. And I remember wool knit jumpers being unravelled, the wool washed, and new things made. Suzi I just gave away the last bits of Air Force wool from my dad's uniforms. He retired in 1974. I remember my mother and I both having suits made from that wool. Melusine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] costume photos
Look, I don't live for the approval of email lists, OK? I coule care less if people think I'm nicey-nice. Fran I don't think anyone was talking about approval or being thought of as nicey-nice. Manners would have been appreciated, though. I am going to take your own advice and delete future messages from Lavolta Press. Sadly, I'm sure I will miss good content on occasion, but consistently abrasive, antagonistic posts do a disservice to both sender and list. Astrida ** Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director The Art Gallery University of New Hampshire Paul Creative Arts Center 30 College Road Durham, NH 03824 (603) 862-0310 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fax: (603) 862-2191 ** ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: repurposed fabric...repurposing in the 1940s
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Darling, I am home from 6 long years in the military and I just cannot wait to get out of this uniform and into my good old... I did it to save resources for the war effort... Come on, that one's easy. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
Try Vermont Country Store. Maybe they can turn you on to some rejects/damaged ones that would otherwise not be sold. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Catherine Kinsey Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 6:04 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing? My DD is currently disassembled and up on a shelf (in a bag) where it is a favorite cat napping spot for one of our feline kids. The DD in my head is currently planning out costumes for a local community theater production of Gross Indecency: The Three Trials of Oscar Wilde in January. I love a director who plans ahead for period pieces :). Budget is limited so we will do a lot of repurposing from thrift store finds and probably save the $$, and sewing time, for OW's wardrobe. That is assuming I can find enough union-suit type underwear for the second act. Handsewing is still my favorite to do but it is increasing limited by arthritis. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] costume photos
Beteena Paradise wrote: Yes, that is quite obvious. However, as a business owner you might consider that the people on this list are your target consumers. It is a well known fact that consumers often purchase where they feel they are treated respectfully. I know I have switched dry cleaners not because of how my clothes were cleaned (both did an admirable job there), but because of their customer service. You may be alienating many people who would have otherwise purchased your goods. Sorry, that club for controlling me doesn’t work. First, my social participation on an e-mail list has nothing to do with customer service. I’m not obliged to run my entire life, change my opinions, insert ridiculous “IMHO” statements and smiley faces all over my emails, etc., on the basis of whether someone, someday, might, maybe, possibly, buy something from me. Second, 99.9% of my books are sold through book industry wholesalers, meaning that I almost never sell directly to consumers, and not even that often to retailers. The customer service that consumers receive from the retailers, who in turn buy from those wholesalers, has nothing whatever to do with me. Third, no one who is seriously interested in doing research or gaining information buys books on the basis of whether they know or like the author. What counts is the content of the books. Anyone not at all interested in gaining information on the subjects I write on won’t buy them anyway. Fourth, I’ve run this business profitably for 14 years. While this is not the first time someone has told me that if I don’t change my opinions about copyright, etc., they won’t buy my books (usually someone interested in such a different era from any I’ve yet published on, that they wouldn’t buy them anyway), I have yet to notice the slightest impact whatever on sales. I have my sales figures, you don’t. Sine I’ve managed to run an increasingly profitable business for 14 years while still having the same personality, I doubt it has any negative impact on my business. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] costume photos
I don't think anyone was talking about approval or being thought of as nicey-nice. Manners would have been appreciated, though. I am going to take your own advice and delete future messages from Lavolta Press. Sadly, I'm sure I will miss good content on occasion, but consistently abrasive, antagonistic posts do a disservice to both sender and list. Astrida Thank you for taking the sensible approach. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Union suits - was: What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
Beteena's good advice: I looked on ebay and they have union suits between $10 and $20. :) And Sharon's: Try Vermont Country Store. Maybe they can turn you on to some rejects/damaged ones that would otherwise not be sold. Thanks guys! I'm watching a couple on eBay and will checkout VCS. Part of the problem is I am looking for more summer weight than the long-john style. The production is in January however so I may be able to get the director to consider longer ones. (4 guys will be romping on-stage in these). I have found some offered by Dharma trading at a price that would be worth hemming/shortening, but they are out of stock until December. The joys of community theater budgets! I am also checking my local thrift stores regularly. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
Sharon, How very sweet of you to ask. I'll put my costume website back up after I go thru an interview process next week. I didnt want an ego search to find something quite so un-serious given that the job is engineering program manager. Hardly appropriate. As soon as they say yeah or nay it'll be back up. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] From: Sharon Collier [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing? I'd love to see pics. -Original Message- Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 3:07 PM Euphrosnia is wearing a 1470s houppeland in beige silk brocaded taffeta, the collar cuffs are dark chocolate brown velvet. It needs sleeves, closures a hem. snip ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] what's on the dress form
Right now, I have on my dress form the toile for my niece's wedding dress. It will be silk duchess satin modeled off of the Paulina Astor portrait at the Huntington Library with the decorative elements of a Charles F. Worth gown. I have already produced 5 Belle Epoch silk taffeta blouses (used up 20 years of lace bit collection), 6 petticoats of heavy silk Organza ( a delight to sew with) , one over embroidered silk organza wedding veil beaded and one silk satin Dore corset (never again). I have 5 walking skirts, 5 Eaton Jackets, the wedding dress and the going away picture hat left to do by June. And everyone in the wedding party, except myself is 1,300 miles awayLord help me!! Terri casey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] wedding in historical costumes
We just had a ragtime era wedding in August with a ragtime ball. My groom wore 2007 fashions; Mme wore a 1912 knock off. I dont think you have to match. I would recommend that you each wear what makes you feel handsome/beautiful, comfortable, festive, but you know all that. The Burda pattern is charming, and I do love a fishtail hem, but I do not think that you, as a dancer will be pleased. The upper skirt looks likely to shorten your stride at the knee. IMHO, It should be fine for Argentine tango, 30s foxtrot, 20s tango, but anything with a longer stride like polka or swing might be frustrating. You didnt say what styles you plan to dance at the reception. Congrats, --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Barbara Marien saidAnd for myself? Before the idea of a wedding in historical costumes came up, I had already fallen in love with burda pattern 8199 (http://www.burdamode.com/Brautmode,1270778-1128998-1005430-1157072,deDE.html; or, with English text: http://www.fjoelner.dk/vismonster.asp?vare=6834la=ukuart=167) which to my eyes seems delightfully eclectic and for that very reason not historic, but modern. I see 'medieval' in it (sleeves), 'modern' (bare shoulders) and '1930s' (slim, straight line)... any more opinions? But how will that match an 1830s mens' suit? But I'm not going to make something 1830s for myself -- for fun, yes, not for my wedding. Not one of those huge hoop skirts. Impossible to dance a waltz in that. Or a tango. Dancing is a big thing for both of us. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Repurposing fabric in the 1940s
Suzi Clarke wrote: At 03:06 05/10/2007, you wrote: Six years!?! It would have been out of style. At least, that's what I would have claimed! :-) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 4:06 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Re: repurposed fabric...repurposing in the 1940s Still the best book in my collection of sewing and fashion books is the 1940s home dressmakers' book by Pocket Books. This little dynamo of 100-odd pages from a time when a Pocket Book would still fit in a pocket shows a dozen different stitches, odd techniques, clever cheats, and gives descriptions that are superior to any I have read elsewhere. The highlight of the book, really, is how to make new things from old such as the chapter on how to turn your husband's old suit into a stylish new outfit for you. It demonstrates how to dis-assemble the suit and lay a new pattern over the old pieces and really is a very clever thing. My only qualm would be the kind of sentence that must have rung out across the world in 1946: Darling, I am home from 6 long years in the military and I just cannot wait to get out of this uniform and into my good old... My mother remade my Dad's Royal Air Force uniforms into shorts and shirts for my brother in the late 40's or early 50's. and my Dad was still in the Air Force. Thing was, he got promoted to an officer, and all his uniforms had to be replaced. So there was all this lovely Air Force blue wool going to waste... I collect the odd sewing book, and have a lovely wartime book on how to make do and mend clothes that have moth holes, have shrunk etc. And I remember wool knit jumpers being unravelled, the wool washed, and new things made. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Possibly my earliest memory is of unravelling a red wool jumper while watching Princess Anne's (first) wedding on television. I think I would have been about three years old. I remember the red wool - I don't remember anything about the wedding! Jean ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Repurposing fabric in the 1940s
I have a similar book that is a hardcover, and is an updated version of about 300 pages. It is also big on (remodeling) reusing fabric and altering worn and out-of-fashion clothing, not just for children, but for women too. The section for men is limited, supposing that all but the simplest garments require a tailor that would be beyond the skills of most housewives(which appear to be pretty formidable to modern eyes), but kind of a not-so-subtle tone throughout, that clothing for children and women should be of good quality, but make, alter, and mend so that men will have enough money, as the breadwinners after all, of good quality purchased clothing and the services of a tailor. However since the book was first published during the Depression and cloth and notions were the most expensive factors in any new garment, the book makes a lot of sense, putting it in its proper time: the Depression and World War II. The book naturally favors quality wool, linen, and cotton, over untested synthetics and blends where fabric content wasn't broken down for the consumer. Patterns ran 10-50 cents usually, which was considered expensive unless the pattern would be reused and not too many alterations were required. The book encouraged sewers to use an old garment that fit as a beginning point to making a pattern and showed how to make different pattern pieces based on the original garment. Although people wanted to be fashionable as much as today, the book stressed that while movies and magazines were sources of ideas for making one's own clothing, a classic wardrobe, for wear year after year with small often removeable details for seasonal changes and bows to fashion was the all-important Good Taste, not embracing every whim of Dame Fashion, was the proper way to go. A multi-season coat, good basic black dress, a suit, pared with multi-function blouses and skirts that could be mixed and matched with boleros, jackets, vests and belts or no for multiple looks were advised even for women who could afford servants. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jean Waddie Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 3:47 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Repurposing fabric in the 1940s Suzi Clarke wrote: At 03:06 05/10/2007, you wrote: Six years!?! It would have been out of style. At least, that's what I would have claimed! :-) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 4:06 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Re: repurposed fabric...repurposing in the 1940s Still the best book in my collection of sewing and fashion books is the 1940s home dressmakers' book by Pocket Books. This little dynamo of 100-odd pages from a time when a Pocket Book would still fit in a pocket shows a dozen different stitches, odd techniques, clever cheats, and gives descriptions that are superior to any I have read elsewhere. The highlight of the book, really, is how to make new things from old such as the chapter on how to turn your husband's old suit into a stylish new outfit for you. It demonstrates how to dis-assemble the suit and lay a new pattern over the old pieces and really is a very clever thing. My only qualm would be the kind of sentence that must have rung out across the world in 1946: Darling, I am home from 6 long years in the military and I just cannot wait to get out of this uniform and into my good old... My mother remade my Dad's Royal Air Force uniforms into shorts and shirts for my brother in the late 40's or early 50's. and my Dad was still in the Air Force. Thing was, he got promoted to an officer, and all his uniforms had to be replaced. So there was all this lovely Air Force blue wool going to waste... I collect the odd sewing book, and have a lovely wartime book on how to make do and mend clothes that have moth holes, have shrunk etc. And I remember wool knit jumpers being unravelled, the wool washed, and new things made. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Possibly my earliest memory is of unravelling a red wool jumper while watching Princess Anne's (first) wedding on television. I think I would have been about three years old. I remember the red wool - I don't remember anything about the wedding! Jean ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] what's on the dress form
A big job, but it sounds absolutely beautiful! --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer On Oct 5, 2007, at 3:16 PM, Terri wrote: Right now, I have on my dress form the toile for my niece's wedding dress. It will be silk duchess satin modeled off of the Paulina Astor portrait at the Huntington Library with the decorative elements of a Charles F. Worth gown. I have already produced 5 Belle Epoch silk taffeta blouses (used up 20 years of lace bit collection), 6 petticoats of heavy silk Organza ( a delight to sew with) , one over embroidered silk organza wedding veil beaded and one silk satin Dore corset (never again). I have 5 walking skirts, 5 Eaton Jackets, the wedding dress and the going away picture hat left to do by June. And everyone in the wedding party, except myself is 1,300 miles awayLord help me!! Terri casey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] What's your Dressmaker's Dummy Wearing?
A late Elizabethan wheel farthingale gown which, I begin to hope, may actually be done for the Jamestown Ball in a couple of weeks. Based loosely on the Ditchley portrait, the underdress is done, and an overbodice is coming along, to be attached to an overskirt. Still to do is the neck ruff and, of course, as much trimming as I can get done in whatever amount of time is left. Fortunately the stomacher and sleeves were trimmed prior to assembly. The Jamestown Ball is an 18th century ball to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the Jamestown colony in Virginia, and the invite says to come in any style of the last 400 years, and the earlier the better. The high-gussy Elizabethan style is too early to meet the qualifications, I know, but it is a ball, after all, and authenticity is not the main concern. At the moment, my main concern is how to dance while taking up all that real estate. Jane in Northern Virginia ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] costume photos
Fourth, I've run this business profitably for 14 years. While this is not the first time someone has told me that if I don't change my opinions about copyright, etc., Fran, I don't think anyone asked you to change your opinions, just to consider other people's feelings in your responses. (Not what they think of you, but how you make them feel.) Patty ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Repurposing fabric in the 1940s
Lots of snippage The highlight of the book, really, is how to make new things from old such as the chapter on how to turn your husband's old suit into a stylish new outfit for you. It demonstrates how to dis-assemble the suit and lay a new pattern over the old pieces and really is a very clever thing. I collect the odd sewing book, and have a lovely wartime book on how to make do and mend clothes that have moth holes, have shrunk etc. And I remember wool knit jumpers being unravelled, the wool washed, and new Possibly my earliest memory is of unravelling a red wool jumper while watching Princess Anne's (first) wedding on television. I think I would have been about three years old. I remember the red wool - I don't remember anything about the wedding! Totally O.T. That was the day my now husband proposed to me for the first time! Long and silly story should follow, but won't. Suffice it to say we've been married over 30 years! Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
Almost missed this thread -- if the digest topic list is over 50% copyright argument, it's been deleted unread. I'm experimenting with the Tibetan Panel Coat pattern, getting it up to my size. After that, it'll be mainly research for something I want to take to Costume Con in 2010. I don't know yet if I can wear it myself or if I'll have to find a male volunteer, either way I want lots of lead time. (I never wear makeup if I can help it, so making myself up to look like a guy should take 6 months experimentation all by itself. And if I'm mailing fitting muslins to the model ) I'm also trying to get the stash better organized. It's been getting a boost recently from a fabric store going-out-of-business sale. Leah ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Repurposing fabric in the 1940s
In a message dated 10/5/2007 4:48:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Still the best book in my collection of sewing and fashion books is the 1940s home dressmakers' book by Pocket Books. This little dynamo of 100-odd pages from a time when a Pocket Book would still fit in a pocket shows a dozen different stitches, odd techniques, clever cheats, and gives descriptions that are superior to any I have read elsewhere. ** I found a period 40's commercial pattern for sleeves to cut from contrasting fabrics and replace old fashioned sleeves or worn out sleeves of old dresses. These were very clever and also had belts and bags to make out of the new fabric so the sleeves didn't look like an add onthough most of the sleeve were cut in one with yokes or some other bits that crept decoratively into the bodice and looked like they belonged there in the 1st place. Like I said... they were very clever. I used one in a new costume I was making for a stage production of a war-time radio broadcast. The dress was a mint green with a print of white and coffee colored leaves. I cut the sleeves of a grosgrain in the coffee color and scattered spherical copper beads on them. Looked great! ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ancient Egyptian garment
Thanks Heather and all the rest who responded. I did get the pics and info from one or more of you and was able to share them with my class. Sylvia On Sep 25, 2007, at 9:58 PM, Heather Rose Jones wrote: On Sep 25, 2007, at 8:02 PM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote: I thought I had saved it but now I can't find the article someone posted about an ancient beaded Egyptian dress that was discovered some time ago. It included a photo of the garment. I wanted to show my class. Anyone have the link, if it still exists? There are a couple of dresses (or fragments of dresses) of this type that I've run across. At the moment I'm away from home, so going off what's on the computer, it's cited in Hall 1981 which I think must be: Hall, Rosalind. 1981. Fishing-net dreses in the Petrie Museum in Göttinger Miszellen: 42:36-46. But also in: Hall, Rosalind. 1986. Egyptian Textiles. Shire Publications, Aylesbury. ISBN 0-85263-800-0 which is more likely to have a color photo. Heather ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] copyright and copying
In my experience, U.S. libraries are just as strict about notifying patrons as Kinko's is about notifying paying customers. The difference is that the libraries post the legal requirements and then allow the patron to take responsibility for their own actions. (Of course, I still reprimand anyone I catch not following the policy...!) We aren't doing their copying for them; we *do* want them to know the law and abide by it. Suzanne From: Kate M Bunting [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: October 5, 2007 3:28:31 AM CDT To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com I agree that this discussion has gone on long enough, but... No library determines US copyright law. What you are describing is merely the policy of your particular library. Fran I don't know what Kinko's is, but in a university library copying of a section of a book (1 chapter or 5%) for private study is perfectly legal. Kate Bunting Cataloguing Data Quality Librarian University of Derby Being in the UK, ours observes British copyright law! Sorry if I confused the issue. Kate ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] costume photos
Fran - I am sure you write very knowledgable books. It is obvious from your posts that you are an expert at everything you undertake. I am familiar with you from several costume related groups and I'm afraid I must say your expert attitude is indeed a turn-off. You publish books relating to the era that I am involved in, but because of your personality I am afraid I will never purchase one of your books. I suppose that will be my loss. However, there are many more authors out there putting out books I am sure are as good, if not better than yours. But I am sure you disagree with anyone else's books being better than yours. I don't think anyone is asking you to be nicey nice. Some common courtesy would, however, be nice. Just because someone has a different opinion on something, you don't need to treat them as if they are stupid. This could have been a really good, interesting discussion. Cactus Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Beteena Paradise wrote: Yes, that is quite obvious. However, as a business owner you might consider that the people on this list are your target consumers. It is a well known fact that consumers often purchase where they feel they are treated respectfully. I know I have switched dry cleaners not because of how my clothes were cleaned (both did an admirable job there), but because of their customer service. You may be alienating many people who would have otherwise purchased your goods. Sorry, that club for controlling me doesnt work. First, my social participation on an e-mail list has nothing to do with customer service. Im not obliged to run my entire life, change my opinions, insert ridiculous IMHO statements and smiley faces all over my emails, etc., on the basis of whether someone, someday, might, maybe, possibly, buy something from me. Second, 99.9% of my books are sold through book industry wholesalers, meaning that I almost never sell directly to consumers, and not even that often to retailers. The customer service that consumers receive from the retailers, who in turn buy from those wholesalers, has nothing whatever to do with me. Third, no one who is seriously interested in doing research or gaining information buys books on the basis of whether they know or like the author. What counts is the content of the books. Anyone not at all interested in gaining information on the subjects I write on wont buy them anyway. Fourth, Ive run this business profitably for 14 years. While this is not the first time someone has told me that if I dont change my opinions about copyright, etc., they wont buy my books (usually someone interested in such a different era from any Ive yet published on, that they wouldnt buy them anyway), I have yet to notice the slightest impact whatever on sales. I have my sales figures, you dont. Sine Ive managed to run an increasingly profitable business for 14 years while still having the same personality, I doubt it has any negative impact on my business. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume test'; - Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] costume photos
Can’t you guys just let a flame war die—-instead of inventing statements I never made, and lobbing repeated personal insults, and then make me run around publicly denying them? I’ve worked in publishing for 24 years, and I have several thousand books in my personal library. I own every competitive book on the market: And furthermore, I’ve recommended numerous other books in my bibliographies, etc. If you’re going to accuse me of something, try for a fact. But: OK, I’m assertive, aggressive, abrasive, an atheist, and everything that begins with an A. I’m a nickel-plated bitch (I can’t think of anything else right now that begins with a B. And I love every single minute of it. But at least, I don’t write hate mail, either publicly or privately, or try to destroy personal reputations, or try to harm businesses, to prove how much nicer, kinder, politer, more popular, more conformist, more appropriately feminine, or more a member of an e-list clique, etc. I am. Now, I really do have better things to do than answer repeated insults and invented statements. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com snip However, there are many more authors out there putting out books I am sure are as good, if not better than yours. But I am sure you disagree with anyone else's books being better than yours. I don't think anyone is asking you to be nicey nice. Some common courtesy would, however, be nice. Just because someone has a different opinion on something, you don't need to treat them as if they are stupid. snip Shirley Hobbs wrote: Fran - I am sure you write very knowledgable books. It is obvious from your posts that you are an expert at everything you undertake. I am familiar with you from several costume related groups and I'm afraid I must say your expert attitude is indeed a turn-off. You publish books relating to the era that I am involved in, but because of your personality I am afraid I will never purchase one of your books. I suppose that will be my loss. However, there are many more authors out there putting out books I am sure are as good, if not better than yours. But I am sure you disagree with anyone else's books being better than yours. I don't think anyone is asking you to be nicey nice. Some common courtesy would, however, be nice. Just because someone has a different opinion on something, you don't need to treat them as if they are stupid. This could have been a really good, interesting discussion. Cactus Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Beteena Paradise wrote: Yes, that is quite obvious. However, as a business owner you might consider that the people on this list are your target consumers. It is a well known fact that consumers often purchase where they feel they are treated respectfully. I know I have switched dry cleaners not because of how my clothes were cleaned (both did an admirable job there), but because of their customer service. You may be alienating many people who would have otherwise purchased your goods. Sorry, that club for controlling me doesn’t work. First, my social participation on an e-mail list has nothing to do with customer service. I’m not obliged to run my entire life, change my opinions, insert ridiculous “IMHO” statements and smiley faces all over my emails, etc., on the basis of whether someone, someday, might, maybe, possibly, buy something from me. Second, 99.9% of my books are sold through book industry wholesalers, meaning that I almost never sell directly to consumers, and not even that often to retailers. The customer service that consumers receive from the retailers, who in turn buy from those wholesalers, has nothing whatever to do with me. Third, no one who is seriously interested in doing research or gaining information buys books on the basis of whether they know or like the author. What counts is the content of the books. Anyone not at all interested in gaining information on the subjects I write on won’t buy them anyway. Fourth, I’ve run this business profitably for 14 years. While this is not the first time someone has told me that if I don’t change my opinions about copyright, etc., they won’t buy my books (usually someone interested in such a different era from any I’ve yet published on, that they wouldn’t buy them anyway), I have yet to notice the slightest impact whatever on sales. I have my sales figures, you don’t. Sine I’ve managed to run an increasingly profitable business for 14 years while still having the same personality, I doubt it has any negative impact on my business. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume test'; - Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. ___
Re: [h-cost] Repurposing fabric in the 1940s
I just gave away the last bits of Air Force wool from my dad's uniforms. He retired in 1974. I remember my mother and I both having suits made from that wool. Melusine Jeeze, I hope you kept the patches and insignia, I have boxes of the things. One day, one day... -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Repurposing fabric in the 1940s
I just gave away the last bits of Air Force wool from my dad's uniforms. He retired in 1974. I remember my mother and I both having suits made from that wool. Melusine Jeeze, I hope you kept the patches and insignia, I have boxes of the things. One day, one day... -C. No, what I had was just the fabric. The patches and his actual uniforms were in his storage unit when the facility burned. He and my step-mother were full-time RV'ing, so they and the animals were fine, but they lost everything that wasn't in the motorhome, including family heirlooms. Melusine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] costume photos
Can’t you guys just let a flame war die—-instead of inventing statements I never made, and lobbing repeated personal insults, and then make me run around publicly denying them? _make me_ ??!?? My kids are 13 and 15 and they quit saying he made me about 5 years ago. How old are you? **Who** can't let it die? Look in the mirror. sheesh. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] costume photos
Can we all just pull up our big girl pants and move on? Patty From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Land of Oz Sent: Fri 10/5/2007 10:25 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos Can't you guys just let a flame war die--instead of inventing statements I never made, and lobbing repeated personal insults, and then make me run around publicly denying them? _make me_ ??!?? My kids are 13 and 15 and they quit saying he made me about 5 years ago. How old are you? **Who** can't let it die? Look in the mirror. sheesh. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] costume photos
Well, if you've been on that list any length of time, you'll probably have noticed that Fran *is* harsh. Personnally, I just delete her emails. - Original Message - From: Sylvia Rognstad [EMAIL PROTECTED] I agree. Can we not try to insult one another and start flame wars? Sylrob On Oct 4, 2007, at 8:36 AM, Rickard, Patty wrote: Wow - that was harsh! Patty ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes
1830 info. http://www.connerprairie.org/historyonline/clothing.html AFAIK, they had layers of petticoats and not hoops. http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm#The%20Underwear Men/paperdoll 1830 http://www.fancyephemera.com/historicalfashion.html#1830sbeau 1830 wedding gowns http://www.fancyephemera.com/bridepage2.html#BEAUTIFUL%20GOWNS Fashion plates http://weddingdressesgallery.com/?cat=9 Gown http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_500.htm Scroll down to the pink gown http://www.vintagetextile.com/gallery_early.htm Or were you wanting 1930s? De -Original Message- Barbara Marien saidAnd for myself? Before the idea of a wedding in historical costumes came up, I had already fallen in love with burda pattern 8199 (http://www.burdamode.com/Brautmode,1270778-1128998-1005430-1157072,deDE.htm l; or, with English text: http://www.fjoelner.dk/vismonster.asp?vare=6834la=ukuart=167) which to my eyes seems delightfully eclectic and for that very reason not historic, but modern. I see 'medieval' in it (sleeves), 'modern' (bare shoulders) and '1930s' (slim, straight line)... any more opinions? But how will that match an 1830s mens' suit? But I'm not going to make something 1830s for myself -- for fun, yes, not for my wedding. Not one of those huge hoop skirts. Impossible to dance a waltz in that. Or a tango. Dancing is a big thing for both of us. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
