Re: [h-cost] huge fashion engravings database
Dear Susan, Type in mode and scroll a little down, put a mark under collection Maciet, scroll up again, and click the link called Rechercher with the arrow. Then all the titles appears. Mark one of the titles and click under where it says voir les notices. Then the title of the book appears on the right side, scroll down a little and there is a link in the text, click this, and then all the small images pops up, each of these can be clicked to big images wich pops up in new window. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Susan Data-Samtak [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 2:56 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] huge fashion engravings database On Dec 13, 2007, at 2:02 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote: Type in mode in the place at the left, I got this far in the directions but what do I type? When I type mode, I get a page with no listings. What am I doing wrong? I'd like to see the embroidery, too. Thanks. Susan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] removing blod stains
Yep - same enzymes that dissolve food. patty -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sharon Collier Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 1:09 AM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: RE: [h-cost] removing blod stains A friend told me that if you bleed on fabric, you need to suck it out, because your saliva will put your blood into solution. It worked on some cotton I was working on. Anyone know if this is true or not? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 11:30 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] removing blod stains I remember i saw a tv programme from the workshop at Chanel where all the work of the couturieres was shown. It happened from time to time, that some of the ladies, stuck their fingers and bleeded on the haute couture creations, but then they had a lady they send for who emediately came and removed the blod stains. What do you think they used? I have often wondered about this, and also because sometimes it happens for myself two. What do you do? Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] dress in Stuart England
Hi, I just am curious about this book, Dress in Stuart England, its not the right title, but i am sure you know wich book i am talking about. How is this book, does it have manny nice pictures? Its just that Amazon has reduced the price from 40 pounds to 3.20 I got a notice about this when i baught my christmass pressent, the fine art of kimono embroidery wich i saw in a danish bookshop the other day to more than doubble of the price at amazon. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] huge fashion engravings database
Ups. Sorry this was posted to the wrong person, sorry so much! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Wicked Frau [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 4:01 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] huge fashion engravings database WOW! I am supposed to be researching headdress of the 1800-1804 and was wondering how the heck I was going to get my hands on any primary information! Thanks Bjarne! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] huge fashion engravings database
Thanks a lot Neale... Bjarne - Original Message - From: Wicked Frau [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 4:01 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] huge fashion engravings database WOW! I am supposed to be researching headdress of the 1800-1804 and was wondering how the heck I was going to get my hands on any primary information! Thanks Bjarne! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] difference between douppioni and shantung
Good Morning Zuzana! Here is an excerpt of an article series that I recently started called Straight from the Corset. I think it answers your question about silks. If you want to see the whole article let me know. :) Silk is measured by weight either by grams or by momme (mm). 28 grams = 1 ounce. 8 momme = 1 oz. In determining the right silk for your purposes, silk under 20 momme is considered lightweight, 20 to 28 is considered medium weight and anything above that is considered heavyweight. Shantung Once made from hand-reeled tussah silk, today's shantung is usually made with cultivated silk warp yarns and heavier douppioni filling yarns. Depending on the filling yarn, shantung may be lustrous or dull. It has a firm, semi-crisp hand and tends to ravel, so avoid close-fitting styles. It can be machine washed on gentle and dried on low. 29 mm Douppioni Douppioni is a plain-weave fabric with slubbed ribs. It has a stiff, taffeta-like hand and is usually dyed in bright colors. Douppioni is often made into elegant flowy gowns that are not fitted or for semi-fitted doublets and garments because the fabric doesn't stand up well to stress and ravels easily. Dry cleaning recommended. 19mm. For a detailed chart go to http://www.classactfabrics.com/silk/silk_fabric.htm For further reading go find: Mola, Luca. The Silk Industry in Renaissance Venice. Baltimore: The Johns Hopkins University Press. 2000. My source was the above book. :) Chiara Francesca -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 9:19 AM To: h-costume Subject: [h-cost] difference between dupioni and shantung Hi everyone, I've spent the past few days searching on the internet and I've been asking as many people as I met and still can't get the difference between silk shantung and silk dupioni. I often ask my sister in China to buy me some shantung, but once she gets a very fine fabric with almost no slubs and another day she gets one with a rougher texture and more visible slubs. I didn't know how to call these two, so I started to search for such sorts of silk fabric that would match the two fabrics, and I got shantung and dupioni. But alas, sources say different definitions, one says the contrary of the other, leaving me really puzzled... Does anyone know something about that? Pictures are really welcome... - Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] difference between dupioni and shantung
Hi everyone, I've spent the past few days searching on the internet and I've been asking as many people as I met and still can't get the difference between silk shantung and silk dupioni. I often ask my sister in China to buy me some shantung, but once she gets a very fine fabric with almost no slubs and another day she gets one with a rougher texture and more visible slubs. I didn't know how to call these two, so I started to search for such sorts of silk fabric that would match the two fabrics, and I got shantung and dupioni. But alas, sources say different definitions, one says the contrary of the other, leaving me really puzzled... Does anyone know something about that? Pictures are really welcome... - Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Somewhat OT (?)-Follow up
Well, I eventually had to resort to soaking the fabric (it is a testament to how compressed the fibers were that they wouldn't even accept *water* until they had soaked and I manipulated the seam marks under the water) and then rolling the seam marks between thumb and forefinger. In the end, however, it still looks like there were pockets there. Luckily I found some black wool coating at FabricMart.com for $4.99/yd and 20% off that, so I can alternate panels or some creative thing and she can still have a warm, comfortable and designer coat. And still come in under $30. I expect I can find a good use for the other red panels as well (a backpack and hat come to mind). As always, live and learn. Or, as they say, As ye sew, so shall ye rip. Thank you all for your helpful suggestions! Laurie I think I will try the steam, vacuum and toothbrush team, followed by the wet it, whack it on the table and vacuum team. I'll let you know _ i’m is proud to present Cause Effect, a series about real people making a difference. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/MTV/?source=text_Cause_Effect___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] huge fashion engravings database
WOW! I am supposed to be researching headdress of the 1800-1804 and was wondering how the heck I was going to get my hands on any primary information! Thanks Bjarne! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Sally Queen Associates--annual costume calendar?
Lynn Downward wrote: Ack. I've been looking for the past couple of months. If anyone finds a good costume calendar, PLEASE share. I don't think anyone has done anything like Sally's calendars. You can get some good art calendars at Bud Plant's website. They sell a lot of art books and fantasy ephemera. I have several of the Sally Queen calendars, but lately the topics have not interested me. I don't think I bought the last two. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] difference between douppioni and shantung
That is correct. Anything over 28mm is considered heavy weight. Shantung would be the heavy weight. :) Chiara Francesca -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 10:00 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: [h-cost] difference between douppioni and shantung Thanks very much!! If I understood right, shantung is 29mm and douppioni 19mm, which means that shantung is much heavier? This makes me a bit confused as from the definitions I understood that Shantung might be the finer (less slubs) = and lighter one? Chiara Francesca [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Good Morning Zuzana! Here is an excerpt of an article series that I recently started called Straight from the Corset. I think it answers your question about silks. If you want to see the whole article let me know. :) Silk is measured by weight either by grams or by momme (mm). 28 grams = 1 ounce. 8 momme = 1 oz. In determining the right silk for your purposes, silk under 20 momme is considered lightweight, 20 to 28 is considered medium weight and anything above that is considered heavyweight. Shantung Once made from hand-reeled tussah silk, today's shantung is usually made with cultivated silk warp yarns and heavier douppioni filling yarns. Depending on the filling yarn, shantung may be lustrous or dull. It has a firm, semi-crisp hand and tends to ravel, so avoid close-fitting styles. It can be machine washed on gentle and dried on low. 29 mm Douppioni Douppioni is a plain-weave fabric with slubbed ribs. It has a stiff, taffeta-like hand and is usually dyed in bright colors. Douppioni is often made into elegant flowy gowns that are not fitted or for semi-fitted doublets and garments because the fabric doesn't stand up well to stress and ravels easily. Dry cleaning recommended. 19mm. For a detailed chart go to http://www.classactfabrics.com/silk/silk_fabric.htm For further reading go find: Mola, Luca. The Silk Industry in Renaissance Venice. Baltimore: The Johns Hopkins University Press. 2000. My source was the above book. :) Chiara Francesca -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 9:19 AM To: h-costume Subject: [h-cost] difference between dupioni and shantung Hi everyone, I've spent the past few days searching on the internet and I've been asking as many people as I met and still can't get the difference between silk shantung and silk dupioni. I often ask my sister in China to buy me some shantung, but once she gets a very fine fabric with almost no slubs and another day she gets one with a rougher texture and more visible slubs. I didn't know how to call these two, so I started to search for such sorts of silk fabric that would match the two fabrics, and I got shantung and dupioni. But alas, sources say different definitions, one says the contrary of the other, leaving me really puzzled... Does anyone know something about that? Pictures are really welcome... - Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume - Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] difference between douppioni and shantung
Thanks very much!! If I understood right, shantung is 29mm and douppioni 19mm, which means that shantung is much heavier? This makes me a bit confused as from the definitions I understood that Shantung might be the finer (less slubs) = and lighter one? Chiara Francesca [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Good Morning Zuzana! Here is an excerpt of an article series that I recently started called Straight from the Corset. I think it answers your question about silks. If you want to see the whole article let me know. :) Silk is measured by weight either by grams or by momme (mm). 28 grams = 1 ounce. 8 momme = 1 oz. In determining the right silk for your purposes, silk under 20 momme is considered lightweight, 20 to 28 is considered medium weight and anything above that is considered heavyweight. Shantung Once made from hand-reeled tussah silk, today's shantung is usually made with cultivated silk warp yarns and heavier douppioni filling yarns. Depending on the filling yarn, shantung may be lustrous or dull. It has a firm, semi-crisp hand and tends to ravel, so avoid close-fitting styles. It can be machine washed on gentle and dried on low. 29 mm Douppioni Douppioni is a plain-weave fabric with slubbed ribs. It has a stiff, taffeta-like hand and is usually dyed in bright colors. Douppioni is often made into elegant flowy gowns that are not fitted or for semi-fitted doublets and garments because the fabric doesn't stand up well to stress and ravels easily. Dry cleaning recommended. 19mm. For a detailed chart go to http://www.classactfabrics.com/silk/silk_fabric.htm For further reading go find: Mola, Luca. The Silk Industry in Renaissance Venice. Baltimore: The Johns Hopkins University Press. 2000. My source was the above book. :) Chiara Francesca -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 9:19 AM To: h-costume Subject: [h-cost] difference between dupioni and shantung Hi everyone, I've spent the past few days searching on the internet and I've been asking as many people as I met and still can't get the difference between silk shantung and silk dupioni. I often ask my sister in China to buy me some shantung, but once she gets a very fine fabric with almost no slubs and another day she gets one with a rougher texture and more visible slubs. I didn't know how to call these two, so I started to search for such sorts of silk fabric that would match the two fabrics, and I got shantung and dupioni. But alas, sources say different definitions, one says the contrary of the other, leaving me really puzzled... Does anyone know something about that? Pictures are really welcome... - Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume - Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] difference between dupioni and shantung
From what i have experiensed, shantung is thinner than dupioni, and shantung also has less slopings as dupioni has. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Zuzana Kraemerova [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 4:19 PM Subject: [h-cost] difference between dupioni and shantung Hi everyone, I've spent the past few days searching on the internet and I've been asking as many people as I met and still can't get the difference between silk shantung and silk dupioni. I often ask my sister in China to buy me some shantung, but once she gets a very fine fabric with almost no slubs and another day she gets one with a rougher texture and more visible slubs. I didn't know how to call these two, so I started to search for such sorts of silk fabric that would match the two fabrics, and I got shantung and dupioni. But alas, sources say different definitions, one says the contrary of the other, leaving me really puzzled... Does anyone know something about that? Pictures are really welcome... - Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] removing blod stains
Speaking of removing stains, I thought folks might find this useful. It covers food stains you might encounter during the holiday season. I know a number of us go to parties and events in costume. The Party's Over Stain Guide Here's what to do — at the fatal moment and the morning after. http://lifestyle.msn.com/homeandgarden/home/articlegh.aspx?cp-documentid=5815504GT1=10715 Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] difference between douppioni and shantung
Dupioni is the lighter weight fabric, as it is a thin even weave with the same or similar warp and weft threads. Shantung ends up heavier, as it has weft filler threads that thicken the fabric, giving it a pronounced rib effect. It has fewer slubs because they use a finer silk in the warp, but use thick and thin dual threads similar to the dupioni as the rib weft. Some places consider them the same fabric type, but they really are not. Dupioni is more like a slubby taffeta in weight and weave, and in stiffness. Shantung ... I can't say what it is similar to, but not really similar to dupioni except for the occasional slub roughness. Both fabrics do have issues with raveling a lot while working with them. Kimiko --- Zuzana Kraemerova [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks very much!! If I understood right, shantung is 29mm and douppioni 19mm, which means that shantung is much heavier? This makes me a bit confused as from the definitions I understood that Shantung might be the finer (less slubs) = and lighter one? Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] difference between douppioni and shantung
At 17:16 14/12/2007, you wrote: Dupioni is the lighter weight fabric, as it is a thin even weave with the same or similar warp and weft threads. Shantung ends up heavier, as it has weft filler threads that thicken the fabric, giving it a pronounced rib effect. It has fewer slubs because they use a finer silk in the warp, but use thick and thin dual threads similar to the dupioni as the rib weft. Some places consider them the same fabric type, but they really are not. Dupioni is more like a slubby taffeta in weight and weave, and in stiffness. Shantung ... I can't say what it is similar to, but not really similar to dupioni except for the occasional slub roughness. Both fabrics do have issues with raveling a lot while working with them. This may well be so in the U.S. but, like Bjarne, I have always understood shantung to be the finer fabric. In England, most dupion is not stiff like taffeta, but more inclined to be floppy. Shantung is a fabric used for shirts, blouses etc., like a finer dupion. They do both ravel like mad though. Like I say, that is what I understand to be the U.K. comparisons. Suzi Kimiko --- Zuzana Kraemerova [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks very much!! If I understood right, shantung is 29mm and douppioni 19mm, which means that shantung is much heavier? This makes me a bit confused as from the definitions I understood that Shantung might be the finer (less slubs) = and lighter one? Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] difference between dupioni and shantung
There is a book called All About Silks that also comes with swatches. The definition that Chiara already gave pretty much sums it up, but the swatches help. I've worked with both, and shantung is heavier than dupioni because of the filling yarns that give a definite ribbed appearance. It also tends to be smoother than general dupioni with fewer and finer slubs. And dupioni can be found as nearly as smooth as shantung, or very heavy in the slubs. I know of one online fabric store that offers both smooth and slubbed dupioni on different pages (so of course I can't find my link on this). hth, Kimiko --- Zuzana Kraemerova [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi everyone, I've spent the past few days searching on the internet and I've been asking as many people as I met and still can't get the difference between silk shantung and silk dupioni. I often ask my sister in China to buy me some shantung, but once she gets a very fine fabric with almost no slubs and another day she gets one with a rougher texture and more visible slubs. I didn't know how to call these two, so I started to search for such sorts of silk fabric that would match the two fabrics, and I got shantung and dupioni. But alas, sources say different definitions, one says the contrary of the other, leaving me really puzzled... Does anyone know something about that? Pictures are really welcome... Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] difference between douppioni and shantung
I think shantung is fewer slubs and finer ones than dupioni, but it is more densely wovern(more threads per inch), which would make the fabric heavier in weight Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 10:00 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: [h-cost] difference between douppioni and shantung Thanks very much!! If I understood right, shantung is 29mm and douppioni 19mm, which means that shantung is much heavier? This makes me a bit confused as from the definitions I understood that Shantung might be the finer (less slubs) = and lighter one? Chiara Francesca [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Good Morning Zuzana! Here is an excerpt of an article series that I recently started called Straight from the Corset. I think it answers your question about silks. If you want to see the whole article let me know. :) Silk is measured by weight either by grams or by momme (mm). 28 grams = 1 ounce. 8 momme = 1 oz. In determining the right silk for your purposes, silk under 20 momme is considered lightweight, 20 to 28 is considered medium weight and anything above that is considered heavyweight. Shantung Once made from hand-reeled tussah silk, today's shantung is usually made with cultivated silk warp yarns and heavier douppioni filling yarns. Depending on the filling yarn, shantung may be lustrous or dull. It has a firm, semi-crisp hand and tends to ravel, so avoid close-fitting styles. It can be machine washed on gentle and dried on low. 29 mm Douppioni Douppioni is a plain-weave fabric with slubbed ribs. It has a stiff, taffeta-like hand and is usually dyed in bright colors. Douppioni is often made into elegant flowy gowns that are not fitted or for semi-fitted doublets and garments because the fabric doesn't stand up well to stress and ravels easily. Dry cleaning recommended. 19mm. For a detailed chart go to http://www.classactfabrics.com/silk/silk_fabric.htm For further reading go find: Mola, Luca. The Silk Industry in Renaissance Venice. Baltimore: The Johns Hopkins University Press. 2000. My source was the above book. :) Chiara Francesca -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 9:19 AM To: h-costume Subject: [h-cost] difference between dupioni and shantung Hi everyone, I've spent the past few days searching on the internet and I've been asking as many people as I met and still can't get the difference between silk shantung and silk dupioni. I often ask my sister in China to buy me some shantung, but once she gets a very fine fabric with almost no slubs and another day she gets one with a rougher texture and more visible slubs. I didn't know how to call these two, so I started to search for such sorts of silk fabric that would match the two fabrics, and I got shantung and dupioni. But alas, sources say different definitions, one says the contrary of the other, leaving me really puzzled... Does anyone know something about that? Pictures are really welcome... - Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume - Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] difference between douppioni and shantung
Chiara Francesca wrote: Shantung Once made from hand-reeled tussah silk, today's shantung is usually made with cultivated silk warp yarns and heavier douppioni filling yarns. Depending on the filling yarn, shantung may be lustrous or dull. It has a firm, semi-crisp hand and tends to ravel, so avoid close-fitting styles. It can be machine washed on gentle and dried on low. 29 mm Douppioni Douppioni is a plain-weave fabric with slubbed ribs. It has a stiff, taffeta-like hand and is usually dyed in bright colors. Douppioni is often made into elegant flowy gowns that are not fitted or for semi-fitted doublets and garments because the fabric doesn't stand up well to stress and ravels easily. Dry cleaning recommended. 19mm. It's also worth noting that there's a lot of variability in douppioni (which, as a friend of mine once said, translates to we don't beat our slack-ass weavers) and shantung. Indian douppioni tends to be pretty slubby. I've seen (and have) Chinese douppioni that could almost pass for taffeta. It's purely technique and weight, The quality of the silk (and the weavers) determines whether it's clean and clear or slubby and rustic. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] dress in Stuart England
Sorry i post again, can it really be, that noone on the list knows anything about this book? Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art) (Hardcover) by Aileen Ribeiro Has it manny pictures, or is it more of a text book? Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] huge fashion engravings database
Thanks! Susan Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too fast and you miss all you are traveling for. - Ride the Dark Trail by Louis L'Amour On Dec 14, 2007, at 5:11 AM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote: Dear Susan, Type in mode and scroll a little down, put a mark under collection Maciet, scroll up again, and click the link called Rechercher with the arrow. Then all the titles appears. Mark one of the titles and click under where it says voir les notices. Then the title of the book appears on the right side, scroll down a little and there is a link in the text, click this, and then all the small images pops up, each of these can be clicked to big images wich pops up in new window. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Susan Data-Samtak [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 2:56 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] huge fashion engravings database On Dec 13, 2007, at 2:02 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote: Type in mode in the place at the left, I got this far in the directions but what do I type? When I type mode, I get a page with no listings. What am I doing wrong? I'd like to see the embroidery, too. Thanks. Susan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Speaking of Dress forms...
Someone said: fit. Besides being pinnable, the other bonus is that it is squishable, so I can hopefully corset it, too... with a little added padding in the breast area, as I understand that squishes in, not up. Then Sunny said: I have not found the Uniquely You dress forms to be squishable enough to put a corset on it - the cover really compacts the foam down (at least mine does...) to the point that there is no squish left for the corset to manipulate. My current plan is to get a second cover and shape it to me while I'm wearing a corset, and hopefully that will result in a corseted form for draping/fitting on. Wouldnt trade my Uniquely You for any of those other make-do options like the plaster cast, the duct tape the dial a figure things. A Uniquely You is less hard to do, certainly less messy than plaster, more accurate than tape, models the figure ever so much better, and is, price for performance, the best thing around. Y'all do know the birdseed beanbag trick, right? Put the corset on your dummy but you add birdseed beanbag boobs to get the up part. The size of your beanbag boobs will depend of course on the lady you are modelling. The foam can be reshaped, too. I have forward thrust shoulders protrusive shoulderblades, so I whacked off a bit of foam from the back of the armstub stuck it on shoulder blade. Do that with your dial a dummy! Sunny, let us know how the Uniquely You cover *over* a corset works. I wonder if you dont just have to buy a cover that's size up on the Uniquely You size chart. I'd considered trying this, too, but as I'm less generously endowed than most, well, let's just say, most times I can even leave off the birdseen beanbags. So, please let us know how it works. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] dress in Stuart England
Sorry i post again, can it really be, that noone on the list knows anything about this book? Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art) (Hardcover) by Aileen Ribeiro Has it manny pictures, or is it more of a text book? Bjarne It's got great pictures, and lots of detail. The text is also very good. I use my copy all the time. Melusine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] dress in Stuart England
At 19:33 14/12/2007, you wrote: Sorry i post again, can it really be, that noone on the list knows anything about this book? Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art) (Hardcover) by Aileen Ribeiro Has it manny pictures, or is it more of a text book? As it is by Aileen Ribiero, it is more likely to be a text type book, and only contain photos of paintings we already know. She was writing it when she gave a lecture I went to, and it was about costume in paintings and plays, books etc., but to be honest I don't remember much about it. I think I picked it up in a book shop one time and decided it wasn't a book I wanted to spend that much money on. But that is a very personal opinion, and I am happy to be corrected. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] dress in Stuart England
Hi Bjarne-- Sorry for the dalay in posting. I am trying to decorate for Chrisstmas. I have this book. I would recomend it for the pictures alone-- lots of gorgeous color plates, with details. If you are able to get it for a good price, I would buy it. I bought it for full price, but it was worth it! Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 2:33 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] dress in Stuart England Sorry i post again, can it really be, that noone on the list knows anything about this book? Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art) (Hardcover) by Aileen Ribeiro Has it manny pictures, or is it more of a text book? Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Sally Queen Associates--annual costume calendar?
For 2007 and 2008 I bought the Golden Age of Fashion wall calendars, published by Sellers Publishing. They use fashion plates from 1910s and 1920s issues of the Gazette du Bon Ton. I have seen some of the plates reprinted elsewhere, but these are large, and they are well chosen and well produced. The little boxes for each day have plenty of space to write down appointments or whatever, which is useful to me, since I've never used any kind of desk or online calendar. I'd recommend this calendar for anyone interested in fashions of the 1910s and 1920s. Fran Lavolta Press books on historic costuming http://www.lavoltapress.com Dawn wrote: Lynn Downward wrote: Ack. I've been looking for the past couple of months. If anyone finds a good costume calendar, PLEASE share. I don't think anyone has done anything like Sally's calendars. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] difference between douppioni and shantung
I think our dupioni has more sizing or something, cause when I buy it is hangs pretty stiffly similar to taffeta (but definitely not the same), but when washed and pressed it goes limp like nothing. And taffeta has a nasty chemical smell when washed, and the wrinkles in taffeta never goes away (yeah, I washed it once) even with lots of high steam, but becomes fairly crisp upon drying. I prefer shantung over dupioni, but dupioni is so much easier to find in lots of colors, including metallics. Shantung does seem to be a nicer, finer silk to work with. I also like taffeta, but not so happy with how to work with it. I like working with washed silks that don't stink. Kimiko --- Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: This may well be so in the U.S. but, like Bjarne, I have always understood shantung to be the finer fabric. In England, most dupion is not stiff like taffeta, but more inclined to be floppy. Shantung is a fabric used for shirts, blouses etc., like a finer dupion. They do both ravel like mad though. Like I say, that is what I understand to be the U.K. comparisons. Suzi Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] sally queen associates
How about making your own callender, using some of the gorgeous fashion prints from the database i posted here. I actually have desided i want some of my favourite ones in a callendar, and my photo shop makes the callenders in a lot of varieated versions, and prices. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] sally queen associates
Hthere's an ideanow if I just had a color printer with INK. *sigh* Starr How about making your own callender, using some of the gorgeous fashion prints from the database i posted here. I actually have desided i want some of my favourite ones in a callendar, and my photo shop makes the callenders in a lot of varieated versions, and prices. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] dress in Stuart England
Bjarne: I have this book and it does have many color illustrations in it as well as text. It covers fashion as influenced by Stuart art and literature from c1600 to 1714, although it shows few fashions past 1700. There is an excellent section on masque costumes, most of the pictures date from 1603-1635. Naturally, the Interregnum(1649-1660) gets little coverage. Hope this helps! Cindy Abel, Omaha NE -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 1:33 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] dress in Stuart England Sorry i post again, can it really be, that noone on the list knows anything about this book? Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art) (Hardcover) by Aileen Ribeiro Has it manny pictures, or is it more of a text book? Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] dress in Stuart England
It does have some good pictures and a lot of text I can't say whether they're pics you'd be familiar with because I don't know what else you've got. I like it and would say get it if you can get a decent price - but I like Aileen Ribeiro'sstuff in general anyway. In a message dated 14/12/2007 22:21:02 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Message: 12 Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 16:54:06 -0500 From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [h-cost] dress in Stuart England To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Hi Bjarne-- Sorry for the dalay in posting. I am trying to decorate for Chrisstmas. I have this book. I would recomend it for the pictures alone-- lots of gorgeous color plates, with details. If you are able to get it for a good price, I would buy it. I bought it for full price, but it was worth it! Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 2:33 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] dress in Stuart England Sorry i post again, can it really be, that noone on the list knows anything about this book? Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art) (Hardcover) by Aileen Ribeiro Has it manny pictures, or is it more of a text book? Bjarne ___ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: calendars (was: sally queen associates
Brangwyne wrote: Hthere's an ideanow if I just had a color printer with INK. *sigh* You can have it made at Cafe Press, printed and mailed to you. And if you share with the list, we can buy copies ourselves. My husband had a calendar made up like this a few years ago, with screen shots from an online game he liked to play. It was not very costly. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Sally Queen Associates--annual costume calendar?
On Friday 14 December 2007, Dawn wrote: Lynn Downward wrote: Ack. I've been looking for the past couple of months. If anyone finds a good costume calendar, PLEASE share. I don't think anyone has done anything like Sally's calendars. You can get some good art calendars at Bud Plant's website. They sell a lot of art books and fantasy ephemera. I have several of the Sally Queen calendars, but lately the topics have not interested me. I don't think I bought the last two. I didn't buy the last one for that reason. However, I might have felt differently if I'd known it would be the LAST one. :-) -- Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] It is better to keep your mouth closed and let people think you are a fool than to open it and remove all doubt.-- Mark Twain ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] sally queen associates
On Friday 14 December 2007, Brangwyne wrote: Hthere's an ideanow if I just had a color printer with INK. *sigh* Starr How about making your own callender, using some of the gorgeous fashion prints from the database i posted here. I actually have desided i want some of my favourite ones in a callendar, and my photo shop makes the callenders in a lot of varieated versions, and prices. Bjarne, that's a great idea! And in fact I know of a site that lets people do just that: http://www.zazzle.com I just did a calendar for myself using photos of Viking clothing I've made. (They also let you design your own t-shirts and mugs, among other things.) -- Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] It is better to keep your mouth closed and let people think you are a fool than to open it and remove all doubt.-- Mark Twain ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 571
- Original Message - Message: 8 Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 00:45:59 -0500 From: Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] removing blod stains To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; DelSp=Yes; format=flowed Quoting Leif og Bjarne Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I remember i saw a tv programme from the workshop at Chanel where all the work of the couturieres was shown. It happened from time to time, that some of the ladies, stuck their fingers and bleeded on the haute couture creations, but then they had a lady they send for who emediately came and removed the blod stains. What do you think they used? I have often wondered about this, and also because sometimes it happens for myself two. What do you do? Soak it in salt water. Or just plain cold water, straight away. You will have to rinse it quite a bit though. If it's not something you can get wet maybe the red wine on the carpet trick would work - sprinkle liberally with salt and rub in. The idea is the salt soaks the liquid out. It would probably work with any other 'thirsty' dry material too - sugar, or cornflour. Whatever you do don't use warm or hot water as this sets the stain. Claire ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] difference between douppioni and shantung
I do understand where you all are coming from Suzi but please realize that unlike European countries the US no longer has a silk mass producer that I know of, there may be small runs of it for specialty markets. Kimiko, correct me if I am wrong, you would know that better than I. All of our silk comes from overseas. All the ones I see have India stamped on the bolt ends. For the finer silks however there is a bridal shop here that we all hit and their bolt ends have Japan or China stamped on them. I have never seen silk bolt ends with any other country's stamp on it. In the end, Zuzana, look for the weight. Since you are not there with your sister in China ask her to look at the weights and to look at the surface. If you can get the book of swatches that Kimiko recommends do it and send it to her asap or see if she can get one where she is at. If you have the fabric you want already, send her that swatch so that she can compare it. :) Chiara Francesca -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Suzi Clarke Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 2:36 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: [h-cost] difference between douppioni and shantung At 17:16 14/12/2007, you wrote: Dupioni is the lighter weight fabric, as it is a thin even weave with the same or similar warp and weft threads. Shantung ends up heavier, as it has weft filler threads that thicken the fabric, giving it a pronounced rib effect. It has fewer slubs because they use a finer silk in the warp, but use thick and thin dual threads similar to the dupioni as the rib weft. Some places consider them the same fabric type, but they really are not. Dupioni is more like a slubby taffeta in weight and weave, and in stiffness. Shantung ... I can't say what it is similar to, but not really similar to dupioni except for the occasional slub roughness. Both fabrics do have issues with raveling a lot while working with them. This may well be so in the U.S. but, like Bjarne, I have always understood shantung to be the finer fabric. In England, most dupion is not stiff like taffeta, but more inclined to be floppy. Shantung is a fabric used for shirts, blouses etc., like a finer dupion. They do both ravel like mad though. Like I say, that is what I understand to be the U.K. comparisons. Suzi Kimiko --- Zuzana Kraemerova [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks very much!! If I understood right, shantung is 29mm and douppioni 19mm, which means that shantung is much heavier? This makes me a bit confused as from the definitions I understood that Shantung might be the finer (less slubs) = and lighter one? ___ _ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] difference between douppioni and shantung
I've not been able to enjoy seeing the ends of bolts, except the few at Hancock's. I tend to order my silks from various online sources as I need them. But Chiara, what you have stated seems to be true based on my experience those times I do know where the silk is coming from. While I covet the Italian or other finer European silks, I so can't afford them yet. Kimiko --- Chiara Francesca [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I do understand where you all are coming from Suzi but please realize that unlike European countries the US no longer has a silk mass producer that I know of, there may be small runs of it for specialty markets. Kimiko, correct me if I am wrong, you would know that better than I. All of our silk comes from overseas. All the ones I see have India stamped on the bolt ends. For the finer silks however there is a bridal shop here that we all hit and their bolt ends have Japan or China stamped on them. I have never seen silk bolt ends with any other country's stamp on it. Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] huge fashion engravings database
Sorry as this has probably already been answered, but nothing comes up for me? I'm dying to see these...help! Leif og Bjarne Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Yeah, i should have ben embroidering a lot these last coupple of days, but i found i better had to download all the ones i could get, you never know how long they will be on the internet, it must be quite expensive to have all that lying on the net with such high resolution engravings. And the way they have glued the prints with several on each page, makes a lot of work to do in the drawing program when you want to seperate these to single ones. I prefer this, because its very difficult to single each one out, when they are pasted manny together. So you are right, evil time consuming, but wonderfull drawings... Bjarne - Original Message - From: costumeraz To: 'Historical Costume' Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 6:20 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] huge fashion ingravings database Bjarne, You are either WONDERFUL or EVIL! Either way, thank you so much for that link and the directions for navigating the web-site. The images are incredible! Thank heavens the semester is about over...I wasn't planning on spending the whole holiday break on a French fashion history web-site, but I just might! Happy Holidays everyone! Laurie T. Phoenix, Arizona -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 3:58 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] huge fashion ingravings database I thoaght, as there are manny here who loves regency to send this link. It has hundreds of fashion prints starting end of 18th century and onwards, year by year. Go to this page: http://www.bibliothequedesartsdecoratifs.com/consultation2/consultation.html click on recherche simple. Type in mode in the place at the left, and put a mark under collection macinet, then click recherche. Now comes a full list of books to the left, mark one of them and click under where it says voir les notices Then the title of the book appears to the right, click the link in the bottom. Then small images appear to the right, these are clickable to huge resolution images wich pops up in new windows. They are all downloadable, and gues who is a very happy man? I know its a little difficult to find them, but if you do what i said here, it should work for you! There is enough for days i tell you Bjarne - Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] removing blod stains
I notice that colored wax is a problem. So, match your candles to your tablecloth! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dawn Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 8:47 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] removing blod stains Speaking of removing stains, I thought folks might find this useful. It covers food stains you might encounter during the holiday season. I know a number of us go to parties and events in costume. The Party's Over Stain Guide Here's what to do - at the fatal moment and the morning after. http://lifestyle.msn.com/homeandgarden/home/articlegh.aspx?cp-documentid=581 5504GT1=10715 Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
