Re: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries

2008-02-18 Thread Catherine Olanich Raymond
On Monday 18 February 2008, Chris Laning wrote:
> On Feb 12, 2008, at 12:06 PM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> > There has been a bit of discussion about this on the Norsefolk_2
> > list. Here is an image of her reconstruction:
> >
> > see bottom of http://www.uu.se/press/pm.php?id=48
> > http://www.newsdesk.se/pressroom/uu/image/view/pm_vikingakvinna1-5825
>
> I won't exactly say that Norse costume experts on other mailing lists
> seem to be laughing themselves into stitches over this. but...

You're absolutely right, Chris.  I know this because I'm also a member of some 
of the other lists and have participated in those discussions.  :-)

I'll add here that a lot of what Larsson has proposed in her reconstruction 
comes from a recent (2006) find in Pskov, Russia, of large fragments of what 
appear to have been an undertunic with a gathered neck and an apron dress.  
The Pskov team is preparing an article on their find which will be presented 
at NESAT in 2008 and be in NESAT X, but here's a good factual summary in 
English of the preliminarily released details:

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/sarafan/sarafan.htm

The abstract for the NESAT paper gives some additional details that I wanted 
to raise here, for they present additional reasons counting against this 
proposed reconstruction:

"Related with this outer item of the costume [i.e., the presumed undertunic] 
was the largest piece among the silk details found. It was a complete upper 
part (152 cm long and 25.5 cm wide) of the apron. At equal distances from the 
centre, fragments of two loops or shoulder-straps were preserved. The loops 
themselves were found on the pins of two oval fibulae.

The silken trimming of the upper part of the apron consisted of several 
details cut from different kinds of silk. These all were cloths of the 
Byzantine type. On silken cloth no. 1, a woven pattern has been recognized 
with a scene of the Sassanian prince Bahram Gur hunting. In Europe, cloths 
with similar designs are known by finds from Milan, Cologne, and Prague. 
Within the territory of Russia they have been found at mountain burial 
grounds of the northern Caucasus. All of them are dated, at the latest, to 
the 9th Century being imitations of the earlier Sassanian textiles."

In Larsson's reconstruction, the part of the apron dress that is ornamented 
with this precious, antique (the Sassanian silks are dated 9th century, while 
the burial is dated late 10th century) silk goes *at the small of the back.*  
I can't imagine any Viking wearing a garment in a fashion that would make it 
hard to find the most precious ornamentation on the garment.

Overall, I agree with Chris's parting shot on this sort of daringly different 
reconstruction:

> There is certainly merit in challenging the established "applecart"
> of wisdom about how things were done, just to be sure no one is
> getting too complacent or thinks that we know everything. But some
> challenges have a lot of plausible reasoning and evidence behind
> them, and others, well, don't.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee

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[h-cost] RAYMOND MACHINE WORTH

2008-02-18 Thread AVCHASE
Thanks for the info on patent dating. When the machine was checked it was found 
to have patent dates of 1879 and 1880 and was styled as a "NEW RAYMOND". I 
haven't seen it yet as I'm tied up with the current show at the theatre.
 I'd love to have a treadle machine as that is what I learned on and sewed, in 
a factory, on late 19thC. or early 20th C. electric powered treadle machines.
I haven't a clue what to offer for it. Ideas anyone? I understand that there 
are pics, which I haven't seen yet, but I don't know how to post them.

Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas


PeoplePC Online
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Re: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries

2008-02-18 Thread Chris Laning


On Feb 12, 2008, at 12:06 PM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

There has been a bit of discussion about this on the Norsefolk_2  
list. Here is an image of her reconstruction:


see bottom of http://www.uu.se/press/pm.php?id=48
http://www.newsdesk.se/pressroom/uu/image/view/pm_vikingakvinna1-5825


I won't exactly say that Norse costume experts on other mailing lists  
seem to be laughing themselves into stitches over this. but...


There are certainly some aspects of it that don't look very  
practical, such as the train. Also, as someone on another list  
pointed out, generally costume found in one place and time will show  
some sort of evolutionary relationships to the costume of other,  
similar places at the same time, before and afterward. But I'm not  
aware of anything remotely like this anywhere in northern Europe  
(disclaimer: but then, I'm hardly an expert) To me, it would seem  
much more plausible that the placement of garment parts reconstructed  
here is the result of subsidence in the graves from which the  
originals came, rather than that they were actually worn that way.


There is certainly merit in challenging the established "applecart"  
of wisdom about how things were done, just to be sure no one is  
getting too complacent or thinks that we know everything. But some  
challenges have a lot of plausible reasoning and evidence behind  
them, and others, well, don't.


(I recently ran across someone who claims that French, Italian and  
Spanish all descended from Modern English, and that Latin never  
existed as a living language, it was merely scribal shorthand.  
Definitely one of the more far-out attempts to re-think established  
wisdom, and apparently without much in the way of evidence  
either.. http://itre.cis.upenn.edu/~myl/languagelog/archives/ 
005394.html#more)



OChris Laning <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> - Davis, California
+ http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com




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Re: [h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co

2008-02-18 Thread Audrey Bergeron-Morin

From the French, caparaçon...


- Original Message - 
From: "Rickard, Patty " <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 2:41 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co



I bet that's right - but I think it's caparison.

Patty

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On 
Behalf Of otsisto

Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 3:39 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co

Though I have heard it refered to as barding, I have been informed by many 
a horse person that it is comparisons. Supposedly, barding is in reference 
to horse armour and camparison is the fabric heraldic garments. But online 
I find horse people calling it barding.

http://ilaria.veltri.tripod.com/
http://www.bayrose.org/Poppy_Run/horse_barding_web.pdf

-Original Message-

On Saturday 16 February 2008, Rickard, Patty wrote:

 Do they
make costumes for horses?

Medieval reeenactors make costumes for horses - it gets called barding 
(if

it isn't armour).


Some vendors who market to medieval reenactors make them too.  Consider 
this

item from Historic Enterprises:

http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=598&c=131

--
Cathy Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee


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Re: [h-cost] Money & weights in accounts (was: A little help, please.)

2008-02-18 Thread Cin
> "the foreparte of the George of Dyamountes the Mayle
> of the curates and Rivet of the same of Siluer half
> gilte with a sworde in his hand of gold a lozenged
> Dyamounte like a sheelde and a Dragon of gold weying
> together iij oz di di quarter"
>
> "a little George of gold to hang at a Collar of
> garters weying one ounce quarter di"
>
> Thanks for any help with this.
>
> Kimiko

Joan, I believe, has the right explanation for the above citation, but
be careful. In some cases, a reference will be clear that the odd
units refer to money rather than weight. Such as:

'Item for the lynyng and mendyng of 2 vardgales 14d.' 1555. Petrie Archives

In this example, the costs are is 14d, where the d is denarius = a
unit of money.  I'm not clear how or why the Brits kept using d to
refer to the old shilling coin. Perhaps it was a silver coin just as
the roman denarius was?  I leave to someone from the other side of the
pond to explain further.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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[h-cost] Ball dress

2008-02-18 Thread FyneHats2
I would definitely start with a Truly Victorian pattern.  Their  website is 
wonderful with pictures of their outfits made up by themselves or  other 
customers! It really helps with the planning.  I would also second  the mention 
that 
the instructions are easy to follow.  I made up my first  bustle ball gown 
for a Costume College gala and there was no problem in getting  it together.  
And, as was mentioned, Heather and Laura MacNaughton are  wonderful about 
answering your questions.
 
Good luck!
Donna Scarfe
Fyne Hats By Fellicity
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com



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2050827?NCID=aolcmp0030002598)
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RE: [h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co ........... Barding or heraldricitems..., spelling is the key

2008-02-18 Thread Rickard, Patty
>From www.bayrose.org/Poppy_Run/horse_barding_web.pdf 


Horse Barding is a very broad term. It is variously
defined as a piece of armor used to protect or
armor a horse1, an ornamental caparison for a
horse2, horse trappings3, and "sometimes referring
to the armour or the cloth decoration that served
to identify the owner"4. It derives from the Middle
English and Old French Barde and from the
Arabic Barda, which is a padded saddle or saddle
cloth.5 It was not unusual during a tournament or
when engaged in warfare for horse armor to be
used in addition to the cloth decoration.

1 Dictionary.com - The American Heritage® Dictionary of the English Language, 
Fourth
Edition, Copyright © 2000 by Houghton Mifflin Company.
2 http://www.onelook.com/?loc=lemma3&w=bard
3 Websters online - 1828 dictionary
4 http://www.onelook.com/?loc=lemma3&w=bard
5 Dictionary.com, Encarta.msn.com/dictionary



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Melody Watts
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 12:32 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co ... Barding or 
heraldricitems..., spelling is the key

The spelling may be throwing people off. According to Mirriam  Websters its; 
"Caparison"
  no "M" .
  
Main Entry: 1ca·par·i·son   
Pronunciation: \kə-ˈper-ə-sən, -ˈpa-rə-\   
Function: noun   
Etymology: Middle French caparaçon, from Old Spanish caparazón   
Date: 1579   1 a: an ornamental covering for a horse b: decorative trappings 
and harness
  2: rich clothing : adornment
  
Melody
  
otsisto <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Though I have heard it refered to as barding, I have been informed by many a 
horse person that it is comparisons. Supposedly, barding is in reference to 
horse armour and camparison is the fabric heraldic garments. But online I find 
horse people calling it barding.
http://ilaria.veltri.tripod.com/
http://www.bayrose.org/Poppy_Run/horse_barding_web.pdf

-Original Message-

On Saturday 16 February 2008, Rickard, Patty wrote:
> Do they
> make costumes for horses?
>
> Medieval reeenactors make costumes for horses - it gets called barding (if
> it isn't armour).

Some vendors who market to medieval reenactors make them too. Consider this 
item from Historic Enterprises:

http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=598&c=131

-- 
Cathy Raymond 

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee


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RE: [h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co ........... Barding or heraldricitems..., spelling is the key

2008-02-18 Thread Rickard, Patty
My Webster's New Collegiate Dictionary gives these definitions: 
Bard:
1. A piece of armor or ornament for a horse's neck, breast or flank.
2. To furnish with bards.

Caparison:
1. a. An ornamental covering for a horse.

b.Decorative trappings and harness.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Melody Watts
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 12:32 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co ... Barding or 
heraldricitems..., spelling is the key

The spelling may be throwing people off. According to Mirriam  Websters its; 
"Caparison"
  no "M" .
  
Main Entry: 1ca·par·i·son   
Pronunciation: \kə-ˈper-ə-sən, -ˈpa-rə-\   
Function: noun   
Etymology: Middle French caparaçon, from Old Spanish caparazón   
Date: 1579   1 a: an ornamental covering for a horse b: decorative trappings 
and harness
  2: rich clothing : adornment
  
Melody
  
otsisto <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Though I have heard it refered to as barding, I have been informed by many a 
horse person that it is comparisons. Supposedly, barding is in reference to 
horse armour and camparison is the fabric heraldic garments. But online I find 
horse people calling it barding.
http://ilaria.veltri.tripod.com/
http://www.bayrose.org/Poppy_Run/horse_barding_web.pdf

-Original Message-

On Saturday 16 February 2008, Rickard, Patty wrote:
> Do they
> make costumes for horses?
>
> Medieval reeenactors make costumes for horses - it gets called barding (if
> it isn't armour).

Some vendors who market to medieval reenactors make them too. Consider this 
item from Historic Enterprises:

http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=598&c=131

-- 
Cathy Raymond 

"You affect the world by what you browse."-- Tim Berners-Lee


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RE: [h-cost] Ball dress:

2008-02-18 Thread otsisto
http://www.westernersoutfitter.com/Vintage%20Patterns.htm
or 
http://www.riverjunction.com/catalog/patterns/Truly1.html
or the source
http://www.trulyvictorian.com/

-Original Message-
It is that time, I have to plan making not only my first bustle gown, 
but probably best if I get a bustle era ball gown knocked out of the 
way since I do not have one. What is a good pattern to start with? I 
keep finding a pattern on ebay called Buckaroo Bobbins and it is a 
pattern for a polonaise and bustle skirt but I am not sure if it would 
be a good pattern, it could be just as unathentic as the one or two 
incredibly inaccurate patterns produced by the large companies. The 
polonaise gown looks easy enough but with out any experience it may be 
alot harder than thought to be. Would it be best to try out that era 
first with something simple to get the feel for it? When I do make the 
ball gown, it isn't going to be an easy 1-2-3 peice like my others to 
date so maybe if there are any bustlers out there you could share some 
hints on how to get started and what to avoid/try. Goodnight and 
thanks, Justine:)


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[h-cost] Re: Ball dress

2008-02-18 Thread ladybeanofbunny1
Thank you Lynn for your advice, TV patterns have a good vibe about 
them, people who use them seem satisfied and being that you said they 
have good instructions makes me all the more certain that that will be 
where my patterns are purchased from. Ageless has all the same patterns 
they do, not sure which of their patterns classify as "ageless" as 
opposed to TV or folklore patterns, etc. I wonder if there is a haute 
couture's secret dressmaking and design bible floating around somewhere 
from way back when that has all the good information on how to create a 
totally custom style, cause the styles you see reproduced (not to say 
there aren't reproductions being made so well you can't tell the 
difference) are rarely varied in pattern when there are so many unusual 
methods of bustle, skirt, sleeve, drapery and bodice treatments of the 
originals. We get to use what is available of printed patterns from 
then with inspiration taken from original examples but someone knew how 
to create them from their head and that's sweet. Lots of money to the 
person who develops the skill of custom pattern drafting in historical 
reproduction clothing. :)

Justine.



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