Re: [h-cost] Lobster back???
I immediately thought of the lobster tail helmets of the English Civil War (popularly associated with Parliamentarians but actually worn by cavalry on both sides). However, I don't think it can mean those, because it says the hat is perched over the right ear so it must be something small, and the lobster be a reference to red coats as Ruth says. All sorts of headgear were worn during the redcoat era, but I guess this could refer to some kind of forage cap from the late 19th century. Kate Bunting Librarian 17th century reenactor -- Message: 5 Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 08:31:19 -0500 (EST) From: ruthan...@mindspring.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lobster Back??? To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Message-ID: 21945386.1234272680486.javamail.r...@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 What is being described is not the coat but the hat, a tiny version of the hats of those English soldiers nicknamed 'lobster backs.' Those would be the redcoats, the English soldiers of the 18th-19th century notorious here during the American Revolution. --R.A. Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer -Original Message- From: Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.com Sent: Feb 10, 2009 4:18 AM To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Lobster Back??? I was looking through an August 1913 issue of a French high-fashion magazine. In the text was a description of a fashion having a lobster back. I do not read French very well. Can someone please read the following paragraph and let me know what is being referred to as having a lobster back. I have not heard the term used for fashion. Deauville, 12 Ao?t L'un de ces manteaux, qui m'a infiniment plu, parce que r?ellement celui-l? r?pondait ? un besoin et avait extr?mement de chic, ?tait en gros molleton un peu dur, comme l'?toffe des vareuses de matelots; sans manches drap?, et seulement garni de ses revers, il avant une allure inouie sur une robe de mousseline blanche ? volants, parce qu'il ?paississait la silhouette d'une facon voulue et cocasse, contrastant avec la t?te que coiffait un de ces minuscules bonnets des soldats anglais surnomm?s lobster back; comme celui-l?, il ?tait pos? sur l'oreille droite, compl?tement adh?rent au front tr?s d?gag?, et piqu? d'une aigrette paradis tr?s maigre et d?mesur?ment haute. C'?tait l? du nouveau, autant par les d?tails que par l'ensemble de cette toilette tr?s excentrique et tout ? fait r?ussie. The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Boning question of a different kind
In novels I've read, there are references to a groom or a valet boning boots. In trying to find out what exactly this is, I've not really come across a complete explanation. Some sites mention applying wax or boot polish with a deer bone, but do not explain or describe the method or the materials. Some boot sellers still sell deer bones for applying substances to boots, but do not give directions as to how this should be done. There are several pair of tall, leather riding boots in my family, so I'd like to know how this is done. Traditional riding boots have not changed much from military or calvery boots in the last 2 or 3 centuries, so I hope someone here can send me a link or more detailed instructions. Thanks! Denise B Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Lobster back???
The aigrette de paradis would suggest a feather plume, thus styling the hat along the lines of an officer's hat. I believe I've seen a picture of a woman wearing the little stylish hat the quotation is gushing over, and it did look like a tminiature of Cornwallis' fancy hat, perched in an elaborate coiffeure. --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer On Feb 11, 2009, at 4:12 AM, Kate Bunting wrote: I immediately thought of the lobster tail helmets of the English Civil War (popularly associated with Parliamentarians but actually worn by cavalry on both sides). However, I don't think it can mean those, because it says the hat is perched over the right ear so it must be something small, and the lobster be a reference to red coats as Ruth says. All sorts of headgear were worn during the redcoat era, but I guess this could refer to some kind of forage cap from the late 19th century. Kate Bunting Librarian 17th century reenactor -- Message: 5 Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 08:31:19 -0500 (EST) From: ruthan...@mindspring.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lobster Back??? To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Message-ID: 21945386.1234272680486.javamail.r...@elwamui- polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 What is being described is not the coat but the hat, a tiny version of the hats of those English soldiers nicknamed 'lobster backs.' Those would be the redcoats, the English soldiers of the 18th-19th century notorious here during the American Revolution. --R.A. Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer -Original Message- From: Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.com Sent: Feb 10, 2009 4:18 AM To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Lobster Back??? I was looking through an August 1913 issue of a French high- fashion magazine. In the text was a description of a fashion having a lobster back. I do not read French very well. Can someone please read the following paragraph and let me know what is being referred to as having a lobster back. I have not heard the term used for fashion. Deauville, 12 Ao?t L'un de ces manteaux, qui m'a infiniment plu, parce que r?ellement celui-l? r?pondait ? un besoin et avait extr?mement de chic, ?tait en gros molleton un peu dur, comme l'?toffe des vareuses de matelots; sans manches drap?, et seulement garni de ses revers, il avant une allure inouie sur une robe de mousseline blanche ? volants, parce qu'il ?paississait la silhouette d'une facon voulue et cocasse, contrastant avec la t?te que coiffait un de ces minuscules bonnets des soldats anglais surnomm?s lobster back; comme celui-l?, il ?tait pos? sur l'oreille droite, compl?tement adh?rent au front tr?s d?gag?, et piqu? d'une aigrette paradis tr? s maigre et d?mesur?ment haute. C'?tait l? du nouveau, autant par les d?tails que par l'ensemble de cette toilette tr?s excentrique et tout ? fait r?ussie. The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Lobster back???
Can you show me an image of the Cornwallis' hat that you are mentioning. There are hat images in the magazine and I want to see if one will match. In the magazine there is one hat image with the following description: Tricorne de velours noir avec paradis partant de derriere. Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Lobster back???
not original poster but will these pics. help? http://tinyurl.com/alvtj6 (ebay,penny) http://www.sonofthesouth.net/revolutionary-war/revolutionary-war-overview.ht m http://www.exonumia.com/sale11/pic/9960A.JPG (coin) http://www.gentlemenoffortune.com/tricorne.htm -Original Message- Can you show me an image of the Cornwallis' hat that you are mentioning. There are hat images in the magazine and I want to see if one will match. In the magazine there is one hat image with the following description: Tricorne de velours noir avec paradis partant de derriere. Penny Ladnier ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fashion Designers and WW1
What happened to European design houses during World War I. I have read that the Parisian design houses closed during the war. Did their businesses move to other locations? If so, where? I know Jean Patou was a new designer before the war. He closed his house and served in the war. What happened to the other designers? I searched through my entire collection of L'Art et la Mode magazines from 1914-1919. L'Art was a Parisian high-fashion magazine. Designers were not in the magazine until 1919, and then there were only a few. The major fashion illustrators presented renderings of fashions to the magazine. I wonder where the illustrators were drawing their inspirations for the fashions. Can other h-costumers who have European fashion magazines please check the WW1 time frame check for designers. How long was it until the design houses were functional after the war? I have a U.S. fashion industry trade magazine/journal from 1918. The journal is devoted to preparing the industry for gearing up the businesses and factories up for the end of the war. I am looking at actual period publications that have documented the designers in business at the time frame. I have documented the following designers. Some where Paris-based designers but I don't know where their businesses were based during the war. I am wondering if the designers contracted other businesses to produce their designs. From 1916 Harry Angelo Catalog Designers: This catalog was published in NYC and Paris http://www.costumegallery.com/1916/Christy/ . Agnes, Beer, Alice Bernard, Bulloz, Georges Doeuillet, Drecoll, Dumay, Georgette, Jenny (Jeanne Adele Bernard), Charles Klein, Martial Armand, Monge, Paquin, and Premet. From 1916 Harper's Bazar Designers: Bendal, Alice Bernard, Callot Soeurs, Carroll, Doucet, Lady Duff Gordon, Fanny, Hickson, Charles Klein, McNally, Premet, Redfern, and Tappe. Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Lobster back???
I wish I could find the little fashionable hat, but the drawing I saw was in a book a long time ago Anyway, here's Gentleman Johnny Burgoyne in just the type of hat. Note the feather cockade (continues outside the picture). The lady's hat was a miniature version and rode in her coiffeure. http://www.si.umich.edu/SPIES/b-portrait-burgoyne.jpg --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer On Feb 11, 2009, at 4:40 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote: Can you show me an image of the Cornwallis' hat that you are mentioning. There are hat images in the magazine and I want to see if one will match. In the magazine there is one hat image with the following description: Tricorne de velours noir avec paradis partant de derriere. Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] another Re: Lobster back???
Here are other hats (recreators), also plumed. But the one I saw was a tricorn. http://www.lobsterback.org/ --Ruth Anne On Feb 11, 2009, at 4:40 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote: Can you show me an image of the Cornwallis' hat that you are mentioning. There are hat images in the magazine and I want to see if one will match. In the magazine there is one hat image with the following description: Tricorne de velours noir avec paradis partant de derriere. Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Lobster back???
I know someone who makes mini tricorn hats. If anyone is interested, I'll see if I can find her info. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Ruth Anne Baumgartner Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 4:58 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lobster back??? I wish I could find the little fashionable hat, but the drawing I saw was in a book a long time ago Anyway, here's Gentleman Johnny Burgoyne in just the type of hat. Note the feather cockade (continues outside the picture). The lady's hat was a miniature version and rode in her coiffeure. http://www.si.umich.edu/SPIES/b-portrait-burgoyne.jpg --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer On Feb 11, 2009, at 4:40 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote: Can you show me an image of the Cornwallis' hat that you are mentioning. There are hat images in the magazine and I want to see if one will match. In the magazine there is one hat image with the following description: Tricorne de velours noir avec paradis partant de derriere. Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Lobster back???
So you are looking for a french tricorn like the one at the bottom ot this site? http://www.clearwaterhats.com/revwarcatalog.htm but for a woman? -Original Message- I wish I could find the little fashionable hat, but the drawing I saw was in a book a long time ago Anyway, here's Gentleman Johnny Burgoyne in just the type of hat. Note the feather cockade (continues outside the picture). The lady's hat was a miniature version and rode in her coiffeure. http://www.si.umich.edu/SPIES/b-portrait-burgoyne.jpg --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
