The "aigrette de paradis" would suggest a feather plume, thus styling the hat along the lines of an officer's hat. I believe I've seen a picture of a woman wearing the little stylish hat the quotation is gushing over, and it did look like a tminiature of Cornwallis' fancy hat, perched in an elaborate coiffeure.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Feb 11, 2009, at 4:12 AM, Kate Bunting wrote:

I immediately thought of the "lobster tail" helmets of the English Civil War (popularly associated with Parliamentarians but actually worn by cavalry on both sides). However, I don't think it can mean those, because it says the hat is "perched over the right ear" so it must be something small, and the "lobster" be a reference to red coats as Ruth says. All sorts of headgear were worn during the "redcoat" era, but I guess this could refer to some kind of forage cap from the late 19th century.

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17th century reenactor
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 08:31:19 -0500 (EST)
From: ruthan...@mindspring.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lobster Back???
To: Historical Costume <h-cost...@indra.com>
Message-ID:
<21945386.1234272680486.javamail.r...@elwamui- polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

What is being described is not the coat but the hat, a "tiny version of the hats of those English soldiers nicknamed 'lobster backs.'" Those would be the redcoats, the English soldiers of the 18th-19th century notorious here during the American Revolution.

--R.A. Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
From: Penny Ladnier <pe...@costumegallery.com>
Sent: Feb 10, 2009 4:18 AM
To: h-costume <h-cost...@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Lobster Back???

I was looking through an August 1913 issue of a French high- fashion magazine. In the text was a description of a fashion having a lobster back. I do not read French very well. Can someone please read the following paragraph and let me know what is being referred to as having a lobster back. I have not heard the term used for fashion.

Deauville, 12 Ao?t



L'un de ces manteaux, qui m'a infiniment plu, parce que r?ellement celui-l? r?pondait ? un besoin et avait extr?mement de chic, ?tait en gros molleton un peu dur, comme l'?toffe des vareuses de matelots; sans manches drap?, et seulement garni de ses revers, il avant une allure inouie sur une robe de mousseline blanche ? volants, parce qu'il ?paississait la silhouette d'une facon voulue et cocasse, contrastant avec la t?te que coiffait un de ces minuscules bonnets des soldats anglais surnomm?s "lobster back;" comme celui-l?, il ?tait pos? sur l'oreille droite, compl?tement adh?rent au front tr?s d?gag?, et piqu? d'une aigrette paradis tr? s maigre et d?mesur?ment haute. C'?tait l? du nouveau, autant par les d?tails que par l'ensemble de cette toilette tr?s excentrique et tout ? fait r?ussie.



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