[h-cost] Patterns date question

2009-03-11 Thread Deredere Galbraith

I was wondering from when the costume is on the left of the picture.
I have been asked to make that costume for reenactment in the 
Netherlands during the 1sth world war.

And I wonder if that dress is the right period.
http://www.naaipatronen.nl/afb/swb/B4954.jpg

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Re: [h-cost] Patterns date question

2009-03-11 Thread Catherine Olanich Raymond
On Wednesday 11 March 2009 7:26:04 am Deredere Galbraith wrote:
 I was wondering from when the costume is on the left of the picture.
 I have been asked to make that costume for reenactment in the
 Netherlands during the 1sth world war.
 And I wonder if that dress is the right period.
 http://www.naaipatronen.nl/afb/swb/B4954.jpg

De:  the costume shown doesn't look to be particularly period to me for any 
period, but it looks more like an 1890s outfit than anything else.  So I'm 
inclined to say, no, it's not right for WWI.


-- 
Cathy Raymond ca...@thyrsus.com

If someone offers you a dead dog for lunch, you don't stick around for the 
pudding. --Ben Yahtzee Croshaw


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Re: [h-cost] Patterns date question

2009-03-11 Thread penhal...@juno.com
Ye, I agree, this is not any particular period but it is trying to be vaguely 
Victorian. If you can find the patterns that were released after 'Titanic' 
became popular, you will be much closer to the corrrect style. 
 
Like these:
http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/19gapadrbyfo.html
http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/hiofhi19shco.html
http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/jacateadrbyf.html
http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/seandse19kid.html
 
(This is not an endorsement of either the patterns or the site, just some 
examples)
 
Karen
Seamstrix

-- Original Message --
From: Catherine Olanich Raymond ca...@thyrsus.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns date question
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2009 07:53:41 -0400

On Wednesday 11 March 2009 7:26:04 am Deredere Galbraith wrote:
 I was wondering from when the costume is on the left of the picture.
 I have been asked to make that costume for reenactment in the
 Netherlands during the 1sth world war.
 And I wonder if that dress is the right period.
 http://www.naaipatronen.nl/afb/swb/B4954.jpg

De:  the costume shown doesn't look to be particularly period to me for any 
period, but it looks more like an 1890s outfit than anything else.  So I'm 
inclined to say, no, it's not right for WWI.


-- 
Cathy Raymond ca...@thyrsus.com

If someone offers you a dead dog for lunch, you don't stick around for the 
pudding. --Ben Yahtzee Croshaw


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Re: [h-cost] Patterns date question

2009-03-11 Thread Sharon Collier
There is a Past Patterns pattern called the Armistice Blouse which is the
correct period.  I think they have a skirt that goes with it, too,
otherwise, a narrow, ankle length one will do. And if the re-enactment is
showing the deprivations of the war, just use early 1900's. 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of penhal...@juno.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2009 6:37 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns date question

Ye, I agree, this is not any particular period but it is trying to be
vaguely Victorian. If you can find the patterns that were released after
'Titanic' became popular, you will be much closer to the corrrect style. 
 
Like these:
http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/19gapadrbyfo.html
http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/hiofhi19shco.html
http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/jacateadrbyf.html
http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/seandse19kid.html
 
(This is not an endorsement of either the patterns or the site, just some
examples)
 
Karen
Seamstrix

-- Original Message --
From: Catherine Olanich Raymond ca...@thyrsus.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns date question
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2009 07:53:41 -0400

On Wednesday 11 March 2009 7:26:04 am Deredere Galbraith wrote:
 I was wondering from when the costume is on the left of the picture.
 I have been asked to make that costume for reenactment in the 
 Netherlands during the 1sth world war.
 And I wonder if that dress is the right period.
 http://www.naaipatronen.nl/afb/swb/B4954.jpg

De:  the costume shown doesn't look to be particularly period to me for any
period, but it looks more like an 1890s outfit than anything else.  So I'm
inclined to say, no, it's not right for WWI.


--
Cathy Raymond ca...@thyrsus.com

If someone offers you a dead dog for lunch, you don't stick around for the
pudding. --Ben Yahtzee Croshaw


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Re: [h-cost] Patterns date question

2009-03-11 Thread AlbertCat
Definitely NOT 1914-1916.
 
I once did a show during WWI (took place in England) and those years are  
actually kinda hard to pin down. The hobble skirt (think My Fair Lady) is  on 
the way out but the 1920's are not here yet...but showing a bit. I learned  
things still have a strict...sometimes bonedunderstructure but basically  
things are draped on this structure to look completely Unstructured. There are  
rarely darts to fit things but tucks and pleats (that release) are everywhere 
to  give things a kinda unfitted shape. The narrow skirt of the earlier times 
is  sometimes there, but also a wider, almost A line skirt is present...and at 
a  slightly higher than ankle length. Blouses and skirts are all the 
rageas are  military details on suits and coats, like pleated patch 
pockets, big  
buttons everywhere and even epaulettes on the shoulder.
 
Of the patterns suggested by penhalion
 
http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/19gapadrbyfo.html
http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/hiofhi19shco.html
_http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/seandse19kid.html_ 
(http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/seandse19kid.html) 
 
are the best (notice the fullness of the skirts)
 
_http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/jacateadrbyf.html_ 
(http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/jacateadrbyf.html) 

looks too early.


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Re: [h-cost] Patterns date question

2009-03-11 Thread Ruth Anne Baumgartner
That almost-A-line skirt is a walking skirt, and Folkwear has a  
lovely pattern. On my way out the door or I'd look up the  
number...but of course it's on their website 

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Mar 11, 2009, at 12:40 PM, albert...@aol.com wrote:


Definitely NOT 1914-1916.

I once did a show during WWI (took place in England) and those  
years are
actually kinda hard to pin down. The hobble skirt (think My Fair  
Lady) is  on
the way out but the 1920's are not here yet...but showing a bit. I  
learned
things still have a strict...sometimes bonedunderstructure but  
basically
things are draped on this structure to look completely  
Unstructured. There are
rarely darts to fit things but tucks and pleats (that release) are  
everywhere
to  give things a kinda unfitted shape. The narrow skirt of the  
earlier times
is  sometimes there, but also a wider, almost A line skirt is  
present...and at

a  slightly higher than ankle length. Blouses and skirts are all the
rageas are  military details on suits and coats, like pleated  
patch pockets, big

buttons everywhere and even epaulettes on the shoulder.

Of the patterns suggested by penhalion

http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/19gapadrbyfo.html
http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/hiofhi19shco.html
_http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/seandse19kid.html_
(http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/seandse19kid.html)

are the best (notice the fullness of the skirts)

_http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/jacateadrbyf.html_
(http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/jacateadrbyf.html)

looks too early.


**A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in  
just 2 easy

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Re: [h-cost] Patterns date question

2009-03-11 Thread Sonja LS-LAMP
Almost there.  I think a bit too early for 1911.  But, I do see where you are 
going with this.  Remove ruffles, lengthen, loosen and widen the coat for 
more of 1911 fall dress something like this maybe: 
http://www.korthalsgriffonclub.co.uk/uploads/image/earlydays%20group%20of%20owners%201911.jpg  
 I like it.  Thank you for reminding me of one of my favorite periods. 

 From: Deredere Galbraith tria...@kabelfoon.nl 
 Subject:  
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com 
 Message-ID: 49b79fcc.3090...@kabelfoon.nl 
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed 
 
 I was wondering from when the costume is on the left of the picture. 
 I have been asked to make that costume for reenactment in the 
 Netherlands during the 1sth world war. 
 And I wonder if that dress is the right period. 
 http://www.naaipatronen.nl/afb/swb/B4954.jpg

--- End of Original Message ---

 
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Re: [h-cost] Patterns date question

2009-03-11 Thread Ann Catelli



--- On Wed, 3/11/09, Catherine Olanich Raymond ca...@thyrsus.com wrote:

 From: Deredere wrote:
  I was wondering from when the costume is on the left
 of the picture.
  http://www.naaipatronen.nl/afb/swb/B4954.jpg
 
 De:  the costume shown doesn't look to be particularly
 period to me for any 
 period, but it looks more like an 1890s outfit than
 anything else.  So I'm 
 inclined to say, no, it's not right for WWI.
 
 Cathy Raymond

Looks like a 1980s costume alleged to be 1890s.

A good source for WWI costumes:  from the Costumer's Manifesto website, 
Edwardian era on the (Costume) History by Period.
There are two tailoring books with diagrams and many other patterns also.

Ann in CT


  
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Re: [h-cost] Patterns date question

2009-03-11 Thread Catherine Olanich Raymond
On Wednesday 11 March 2009 9:09:21 pm Ann Catelli wrote:
 --- On Wed, 3/11/09, Catherine Olanich Raymond ca...@thyrsus.com wrote:
  From: Deredere wrote:
   I was wondering from when the costume is on the left
 
  of the picture.
 
   http://www.naaipatronen.nl/afb/swb/B4954.jpg
 
  De:  the costume shown doesn't look to be particularly
  period to me for any
  period, but it looks more like an 1890s outfit than
  anything else.  So I'm
  inclined to say, no, it's not right for WWI.
 
  Cathy Raymond

 Looks like a 1980s costume alleged to be 1890s.

Except for the hemline, maybe.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond ca...@thyrsus.com

If someone offers you a dead dog for lunch, you don't stick around for the 
pudding. --Ben Yahtzee Croshaw


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[h-cost] measuring question for pleats

2009-03-11 Thread Aylwen Garden
Dear list

Is there a simple way of measuring/marking fabric that is 94cm wide
and need to have a piece of fabric 194cm wide pleated onto it, where
the pleats are inverted and all need to be the same size?
Bye for now,

Aylwen
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Re: [h-cost] measuring question for pleats

2009-03-11 Thread Aylwen Garden
Sorry, my measurements were wrong -
it should read as:

fabric 94cm
fabric to pleat to fit above 284cm

Image: http://www.simplicity.com/section/sewtips/graphics/invertedPleat.gif
Bye for now,

Aylwen




On Thu, Mar 12, 2009 at 1:00 PM, Aylwen Garden aylwe...@gmail.com wrote:
 Dear list

 Is there a simple way of measuring/marking fabric that is 94cm wide
 and need to have a piece of fabric 194cm wide pleated onto it, where
 the pleats are inverted and all need to be the same size?
 Bye for now,

 Aylwen

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Re: [h-cost] measuring question for pleats

2009-03-11 Thread e...@huskers.unl.edu

Subject: [h-cost] measuring question for pleats

Dear list

Is there a simple way of measuring/marking fabric that is 94cm wide
and need to have a piece of fabric 194cm wide pleated onto it, where
the pleats are inverted and all need to be the same size?
Bye for now,

Aylwen
___

Yes.  Don't worry about measurements.

Pin the ends of the two bands together, about where the seam allowance will end 
up..  Find the middles of both pieces of fabric, and pin them together.  Find 
the middles of what's left and pin them together.  Repeat until your pins are 
about as far apart on the shorter piece of fabric as you want your pleats to 
be.  Since you're doing inverted pleats, find middles and pin one more time.

The last bit is harder to explain than it would be to demonstrate: manipulate 
the fabric into the inverted pleats you want.
Okay, the shorter piece I'm going to call the band, and the looped longer piece 
is the bubbles.  Smooth the first two bubbles together, up tight against the 
second pin. (The first pin is about where your seam allowance will be. The 
second pin separates the two bubbles)  Flatten your inverted pleat and pin to 
the band.  Continue with the rest of the pleats.

Emma
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Re: [h-cost] measuring question for pleats

2009-03-11 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 3/11/2009 10:52:03 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
e...@huskers.unl.edu writes:

Is there  a simple way of measuring/marking fabric that is 94cm wide
and need to have  a piece of fabric 194cm wide pleated onto it, where
the pleats are inverted  and all need to be the same size?
Bye for  now,

Aylwen
___

Yes.   Don't worry about measurements.



***
 
I was gonna say: Yes. Math.
 
 
Full return pleats require 3 times the finished length.
 
Otherwise, you subtract the finished length from the total length of the  
unpleated fabric. What's left over is how much must be taken up in the returns. 
 
Decide how many pleats you want, divide the return length by that number and 
you  know how deep each pleat must be. (I'm not going to do it for  you)
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Re: [h-cost] measuring question for pleats

2009-03-11 Thread e...@huskers.unl.edu


Yes.   Don't worry about measurements.



***

I was gonna say: Yes. Math.

-

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Re: [h-cost] measuring question for pleats

2009-03-11 Thread Aylwen Garden
I guess this is another good reason why all girls should do math at school!
Bye for now, toddling off now to do the math..

Aylwen


On Thu, Mar 12, 2009 at 2:37 PM, e...@huskers.unl.edu
e...@huskers.unl.edu wrote:


 Yes.   Don't worry about measurements.



 ***

 I was gonna say: Yes. Math.

 -

 And this is why I love this list.
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