Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear

[Carmen Beaudry]

My daughter has requested that all of her wedding party, including the mothers 
of the bride and groom, wear black. The mothers will also be wearing tiaras.

Carmen

Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 27, 2016, at 11:06 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Actually, a dear friend of mine's mother-in-law chose a beige dress for 
> another of her children's weddings. And beige was just about the least 
> flattering color I could imagine for the dear lady. She may have been of a 
> generation where she took such advice seriously.
> 
> 
> Ann Wass
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: R Lloyd Mitchell 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2016 12:48 pm
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear
> 
> Who follows these antiquated guidelines? And the insults they portray?! The 
> Dream may be the bride's but the occasion is also with expectations of 
> celebration for the mother's who get to be Themselves. Harmony and affinity 
> for the occasion seems to me to allow whatever one chooses. For daughter 31, 
> I wore a teal hand embroidered sundress with matching bolero jacket; my 
> daughter was wearing an antique eyelet gown (1879) .It was a farm garden 
> occasion.
> My other daughter chose  a  princess tea-length dress of white cotton 
> shantung..with jacket; The neckline and sleeve edgings were 
> embroidered..white on white. Her site was a Friend'd Meeting House. Both 
> mothers did wear varities of Beige after noon dresses. Harmonious  for the 
> occasion.
> La! _
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com  on behalf of 
> scourney 
> Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 10:47 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear
> 
> I thought that was the comment for the mother of the groom - show up, shut 
> up, and wear beige. I'm a rapidly greying blonde with pale skin, and in beige 
> I'd be almost invisible. Which perhaps is the point.Susan
> 
>  Original message 
> From: annbw...@aol.com
> Date: 01/27/2016  6:15 AM  (GMT-08:00)
> To: h-cost...@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear
> 
> The mother of the bride wears beige and keeps quiet. But I would think 
> another color would be more fun.
> 
> 
> Ann Wass
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: R Lloyd Mitchell 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2016 9:12 am
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear
> 
> Was at a 20s/30s wedding in June past...The 'other women' of the wedding 
> party all wore shades of beige silk and lace...including mothers and 
> grandmother.  The BMs had different styles (kneeish) Quite a lovely affair.
> 
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com  on behalf of 
> Susan 
> Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 3:09 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear
> 
> Lace perhaps, but Not Beige.  Leaning toward a 30s formal inspired dress.
> 
> Susan
> - Original Message -
> From: 
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 1:46 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear
> 
> 
>> NOT beige lace!
>> 
>> Ann Wass
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Deb Salisbury, Mantua-Maker 
>> To: h-costume 
>> Sent: Mon, Jan 25, 2016 8:17 pm
>> Subject: [h-cost] Wedding wear
>> 
>> I'm no help, either. The last wedding I went to, here in Texas, everyone
>> but the bride came in jeans and cowboy boots. :-)
>> 
>> I'd love to go to a wedding in a bustle dress!
>> 
>>> My son is getting married next month in LA, and I have no idea what to
>>> make to wear to an afternoon wedding, with an evening reception. He
>>> wasn't much help (wear a bustle dress he said...  she said, whatever.)
>> 
>> Happy sewing,
>>   Deb Salisbury
>>   The Mantua-Maker
>>   Quality Historical Sewing Patterns
>>   www.mantua-maker.com
>> 
>> New Nonfiction:
>>   The Art of the Mantua-Maker: 1870 - 1879
>>   Fashion, Sewing, and Clothes Care Advice
>> https://mantua-maker.com/1870s_Dressmaking_Book.html
>> 
>> New Fantasy Novel:
>> Sorcery's Child: The Mindbender's Rise #2
>>   http://www.djsalisburybooks.com/sorcery-s-child.html
>> 
>> ___
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Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074

[Carmen Beaudry]

Since this isn't my normal period of expertise, could someone tell me if 
this pattern is historically accurate, and what would have to be changed 
to make it HA?


Thanks,

Carmen

On 2/26/2015 11:25 PM, Sybella wrote:

Well, I don't own this pattern and can't find a copy of the instructions
online. But I'll give a stab at it. :)

Looking at the Butterick site at the images for this regency gown, it looks
like one ribbon goes in a casing on the neckline as a draw-string tie, one
on the sleeve end and another under the bust. The latter two also through
casings but sewn in at the seam or hem.

For closure, the neckline ribbon is tied in the back and the hook and eye
is in place the lower casing. (In another view, both casings have
draw-string ties.)

So, I think the narrow grosgrain ribbon is for the neckline. The 5/8th for
the sleeve ends, and the 7/8th for the under-bust, where you'd want that to
not to twist.


http://butterick.mccall.com/b6074-products-48593.php?page_id=385



On Thu, Feb 26, 2015 at 10:48 PM, Charlene C charlene...@gmail.com wrote:


It's been a while since I've used a major commerical pattern and I'm
finding this one confusing.

It seems I need three ribbons for View A: 1/4, 5/8 grosgrain, 7/8.

The instructions mention ribbon in three places: steps 49, 57-59, and 66.

What the instructions don't tell you is which ribbon to use at which step.
I'm assuming the 1/4 is step 49 (sleeves), the 7/8 is steps 57-59 (attach
skirt to bodice)  and the 5/8 grograin is step 66 (neckline).

Can anyone confirm this?

At the moment, I can't visualize how steps 57-59 work; I'm hoping it will
make more sense when I try it.

I also don't quite understand how the finished dress fastens up. I know
there's a hook and eye. I'm assuming you tie the ribbon at the neckline.
What do you do with the shoelace attached to the inside center front; does
it wrap to the back and tie?

DEFINITELY not my usual time period.

Thanks,
Charlene
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Re: [h-cost] fiddly question

[Carmen Beaudry]

I've found beeswax on some old ribbons for the same purpose.

Carmen

On 4/29/2014 6:24 AM, Robin Netherton wrote:
I don't know about Regency, but in many periods, gum arabic was used 
as a fray preventive liquid, like Fray-Check. You can get it at art 
stores that sell painting supplies.


--Robin

On 4/29/2014 4:55 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:
I cut at an angle and then cheat and use fray preventive liquid. I 
think in the period, it just frayed.


Ann Wass




-Original Message-
From: humbugfoto1 humbugfo...@att.net
To: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Mon, Apr 28, 2014 10:31 pm
Subject: [h-cost] fiddly question


I'm making a couple of Regency bonnets, with satin ribbons as ties.
How do you finish off the end of the ribbon? Hem it? Cut it, and if so,
how? Such a minor detail, but I'm stumped.
Thanks,
Julie

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Re: [h-cost] fiddly question

[Carmen Beaudry]

That won't work on silk, it just burns.

Carmen

On 4/29/2014 6:57 AM, Becky Rautine wrote:

I burn the edges of 45degree cuts. Not burn to the point of BURNT showing. Just 
melted. I use a candle with smokeless wick, hold the ribbon above the flame and 
approach the flame until it melts but not too close. Try some test before you 
work on project itself.

--- Original Message ---

From: MargaretDecker m.p.dec...@att.net
Sent: April 29, 2014 7:58 AM
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fiddly question

If it is less than 1/2 inch wide, cut it at a 45 degree angle, otherwise a
small rolled hem. Margaret

-Original Message-
From: humbugfo...@att.net
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2014 9:29 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] fiddly question

I'm making a couple of Regency bonnets, with satin ribbons as ties.
How do you finish off the end of the ribbon? Hem it? Cut it, and if so,
how? Such a minor detail, but I'm stumped.
Thanks,
Julie
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Re: [h-cost] mildew stains

[Carmen Beaudry]

I've had good luck using lemon juice.

Carmen

Sent from my iPad

 On Oct 29, 2013, at 10:13 AM, Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get mildew stains out of white
 cotton? I have a favorite white cotton (or maybe linen and cotton)
 Victorian repro. blouse that was left damp and now it's mildew stained.
 Makes me so sad.
 
 Katy
 
 -- 
 Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
 katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Re: [h-cost] bifurcated garments

[Carmen Beaudry]

I have pictures (somewhere) of my great-grandmother working on the farm 
in pants.  I also seem to remember that when my grandmother was very 
small and left out to herd the sheep, that she wore boy's clothes.  I, 
of course, was more shocked to learn that an eight-year-old would be 
left alone all day with the sheep, the dog and a rifle.


Carmen

On 3/22/2013 1:37 AM, Maggie Koenig wrote:

I'm starting to wonder if our ancestors found the idea of women in pants as shocking as 
we think they did. I keep finding examples of women wearing them in the 19th century. The 
bloomer costume as reform dress, the bathing costumes, women in camping and 
hiking situations, women on the westward trek, female mine workers in Wales and other 
parts of Europe, utopian societies, fishwives in England and female acrobatic performers. 
I have a feeling the more people dig the more we will find out that there were just 
certain situations where no one found it out of place to see a woman in pants.

I will grant you that in none of these cases are the women putting on a pair of 
men's pants. They are wearing pants with a unique style and construction.

   Maggie Koenig

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 21, 2013, at 11:09 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote:


I was astounded to learn that my very proper great-great grandmother and her daughters 
wore bifurcated garments on the Oregon Trail-- in 1852, very soon after Amelia Bloomer 
was named as their creator. One of the older daughters wrote about their 
experience and how the garments made walking the trail much easier than it would have 
been in skirts. The stuff of family legend.

I suspect G-g-grandmother's prior pioneering experience influenced her to make a radical 
fashion choice for Oregon. In 1836 she and her husband had floated down the Allegheny on 
a raft; she mentions having to traipse around a portage through weeds and wet with wind, 
and how her skirts switched between her ankles, making walking almost 
impossible.

G-g-grandmother was the wife of a preacher and Presbyterian missionary- I was amazed that 
such a character would make use of what was then rather a controversial garment. Perhaps 
she thought nobody she knew would see her! -- they and their large family had two wagons 
and did not join a train.

 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW






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Re: [h-cost] Victorian Embellishments exhibit

[Carmen Beaudry]

On 1/29/2013 9:50 AM, Astrida Schaeffer wrote:

All who have expressed interest here so far are on the list ;) and I promise to 
keep h-cost updated as well.

Astrida
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Me too, please.

Carmen
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Re: [h-cost] old sewing thread

[Carmen Beaudry]

On 1/15/2013 7:54 PM, Suzanne wrote:

Here's an odd question:  How long does cotton or silk sewing thread last?

At work today, we found an old cigar box full of Belding Corticelli thread that probably 
dates back to the early 1950s.  (The small spools of cotton were priced at 15 cents and 
the large ones at 25 cents.)  I was admiring the beautiful shades of green. . . and then 
everyone else said it would all have to be thrown out because it was too old 
to use in machine sewing.

I'd never heard of thread going bad so now I'm wondering if I was just 
daydreaming that day in home ec class [quite likely!] or if this is common 
knowledge for everyone but me?  (I also have a friend who refuses to use 
vintage cotton fabric because it might rip, so there's another question for 
you!)  I reeled out one spool of white and pulled hard, and it does seem 
thinner than the polyester stuff they sell most places these days--but does 
that mean it won't work even for lightweight projects?  Such a waste!  :-(

Suzanne


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I always test my old thread, but I have some a lot older than the 1950's 
that is very strong and works well.  I tend to use it for handsewing.


Carmen
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Re: [h-cost] 1860s Mourning and Underpinnings

[Carmen Beaudry]

The only black Victorian underwear I've seen, besides corsets, was made 
of silk, and judging by the trimming, certainly wasn't for mourning.


Melusine

 From: penn...@costumegallery.com penn...@costumegallery.com If a 
woman is in mourning during the 1860s, were her underpinnings black? 
Penny Ladnier,


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Re: [h-cost] 1860s Mourning and Underpinnings

[Carmen Beaudry]

On 1/18/2012 6:22 PM, R Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

penny,? as you know, I am away from home and my referrences, but Cunnington has 
severel citations about underwear in general and?I think at least one I have 
seen re mourning.? Since (fashionable) women were just beginning to wear 
drawers and with the layers of chemise, corset and corset cover, etc, the color 
white was the only acceptable color for a Lady; other colors and trims that 
adorned the female form were only worn by the demi-monde or women who did not 
know better. Ehite stood for purity and respectability.
It is only in the last quarter of the 19th c that hints of color began to be 
used. I too have never seen a black corset before...well, almost the 
1950's...except in films or on the stage (and we all know what kind of woman 
would stoop to such seductive measures).
Underwear was not to be seen...so for a woman in mourning to appear in anything 
that might be seen...off color...would be strange. There are referrences I 
believe that describe even Victoria wore White!
kathleen?
I own an original 1884 corset that is made of black satin coutil, with 
the remains of a red organza ruffle on the top edge.  I have also seen 
and handled corset covers, drawers and combinations made of black silk  
from the 1880's, and petticoats of every color of the rainbow, including 
red, black and bright pink.  None of these, however, had any indication 
that they were for mourning--quite the contrary, they were more 
embellished and of fabrics that would indicate them being for very fancy 
wear.


Melusine
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Re: [h-cost] hello!

[Carmen Beaudry]

.. http://bugscom.net/life.html?oshowtopic=f4hu5
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

[Carmen Beaudry]

The Wicker Lady is wearing antique 1880's bustle and corset, Yasmine is 
wearing the Haida blanket-inspired coat that was part of my final 
project for my sculpture class last spring, the borrowed form that 
belongs to my daughter is wearing an Elizabethan coat that I'm hemming 
for a customer, and the wire form is on the front porch waiting to be 
transformed into something scary for Halloween.  The 3 others are stored 
away waiting for the sewing room to finish its remodel.


Carmen

On 10/4/2011 1:44 PM, Cin wrote:

It's that time of year when the calendar is full of holiday parties,
winter balls, gift-making excuses, company dinners, Dickens Fair,
theater season, New Years Eve, cocktail parties, and 12th Night. You
might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale.  Whatever
the reason, h-costumers are probably making something.  So, what's
your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com

PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on
the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's in
your design sketchbook, on the worktable, in the quilt frame, at the
sewing machine or in the embroidery hoop.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com
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Re: [h-cost] .

[Carmen Beaudry]

. http://osakasushinj.com/dfijleoiw.html?yhotmailID=17if0
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[h-cost] (no subject)

[Carmen Beaudry]

.. http://www.baranyimaria.hu/fxizyrjvs4.html?bCID=78af
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Re: [h-cost] Need information on sacque garments (NOT the dress)

[Carmen Beaudry]

She's not only very knowlegeble, but she's one of the authorities on 
both shoes and working class clothing in America.  I think she did the 
best she could with a monumental task.


It looks and sounds like you need an off-site storage and workroom for 
the clothing collection.  Any chance of getting that?


Carmen

On 9/15/2011 3:42 AM, WorkroomButtons.com wrote:

I looked her up (her name is on the transcript).  She appears to be very 
knowledgeable, but of course that's no guarantee of accuracy.  Also, she was 
faced literally with dozens of bulging plastic garbage bags and may have missed 
clues dues to the sheer enormity of her task.

We (two elderly ladies and me) have found things she missed, like factory marks 
and laundry stencils, that in my untrained opinion render her approximate date 
of those garments invalid.  But, again... considering the conditions under 
which she was working... it's not surprising that she may have missed the mark 
occasionally.

Am I allowed to use her name here?

Here's a book she wrote (on Amazon):

www.amazon.com/Womens-Shoes-America-1795-1930-Rexford/dp/0873386566

...and here is a brief professional synopsis:

www.partnersforabetterworld.org/directors.html (scroll to bottom)


--- On Thu, 9/15/11, Sheridan Aldersheridanal...@yahoo.ca  wrote:
Excuse me if someone else has already thrown out this suggestion, but my 
impression is simple - the 1995 cataloguer just plain wasn't knowledgeable 
about historical clothing!
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Re: [h-cost] Pockets...

[Carmen Beaudry]

There's pictures of them in Mode e Firenze (known around here as the 
Elenor of Toledo book), and I believe one of the Spanish museums has a 
couple dating from the early 16th cen.


Carmen

On 9/15/2011 12:41 PM, fastusminimus wrote:

Hi
When did the tie on pockets come into use? i know they are 18th 
century, but am drawing a blank on how early they  where worn. Or 
perhaps the question should be when did the pouch get replaced by the 
pair of pockets, worn under the 'dress'?

Thanks
Carol
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Re: [h-cost] Attn: Kathy Page re: Met Museum visit

[Carmen Beaudry]

I can't help you get an appt. at the Costume Institute, but I got to 
examine two Fortuny gowns, one with sleeves, at the Museum of History 
and Industry (MOHAI) in Seattle earlier this year and can share my notes 
with you.  The construction is really interesting.


Contact me off-list and put Fortuny gown in the subject line.

Carmen
moreplentyn(at) earthlink (dot) net

On 8/7/2011 8:49 AM, A. Thurman wrote:

No sooner do I post that I have nothing to say, than I do:

I'm conducting some research into the construction of Mariano
Fortuny's pleated gowns. The Costume Institute at the Met in NYC has
several with sleeves, which could hopefully answer some questions I
have that the easier-to-find sleeveless versions can't.

However, searching the site I'm pressed to find any way to make
appointments to view garments behind the scenes, what credentials/lead
time, if any, or contact information for the curators (Harold
Koda/Andrew Bolton).

If anyone has any information to share about who to contact or what to
expect, please let me know. I'm putting a special attention to Kathy
Page if she's still reading because I remember she had a successful
appointment a few years back.

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.
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Re: [h-cost] 1880's casual dress question

[Carmen Beaudry]

Look for beach costume or seaside dress.  I know I've seen some of 
those in the fashion magazines.


Carmen

On 7/4/2011 9:58 AM, Kathryn Pinner wrote:

IIRC,  1879-80 is sort of between bustle periods.  What would a young English lady living on the 
coast of Cornwall be wearing?  I will be costuming Pirates of Penzance in January and 
am looking for some ideas of where to look. Fashion plates in Godey's and Harper's hardly seem the 
type of garment that young ladies would be wearing on the beach. Googling previous 
Pirates productions produces a wide range.  Of course I know that it is an operetta 
with a rather silly premise and costume designers can take great liberties, but I would love to 
have some idea of what might actually have been worn. Any pointers in the right direction will be 
greatly appreciated. I am more familiar with 18th cent.-early 19th c. and then very late 19th c. 
(Fran, which of your books covers this?)

Kate
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Re: [h-cost] not ancient hist. costume...

[Carmen Beaudry]

Are you kidding?  They're in style now.

Melusine

On 2/14/2011 1:22 PM, Ginni Morgan wrote:

Oh dear!  I guess I should hang onto those crocheted minidresses from my high 
school  college years, then.  They just might be worth something someday soon.

Ginni
Sacramento, CA
ECHS '68



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Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...

[Carmen Beaudry]

The Folkwear vest pattern is one of my standards.  I've made it for 
women, men, young, old, small, large and, with a bit of futzing, sized 
up to xxx-large.  The only caveat I have is that the wearer either needs 
to wear their pants higher than modern standard (easy if you're wearing 
Victorian period pants) or the vest may need to be cut a trifle longer.


Melusine

On 12/16/2010 2:56 PM, Patricia Dunham wrote:

Don't know if I actually have time to still get this by Xmas, BUT!  Himself 
re-iterated interest in a Steampunk/Victorian outfit again last night, so...

Anybody know anything about any of these particular patterns or vendors...


Laughing Moon #109, men's frock coats  vest

Folkwear #222, set of vests

Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring, by RI Davis 
(book)

Old West Men's Clothing Patterns, by Wingeo, Pattern #W324 (frock coat), #W325 
(Dress Coat)


We have good basic sewing skills, some theatrical costuming experience, but no 
tailoring...

Greatly appreciated, any responses today, Thursday...

Chimene




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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

[Carmen Beaudry]

Right now, the wicker lady is stark naked and Yasmine is wearing an 
antique 1880's corset and bustle left over from my last class on 
Victorian undies.  I'm hoping to get her stripped down over the holiday 
break and get started on the Octopus corset.


Melusine

On 12/3/2010 9:17 AM, Cin wrote:

It's that time of year when the calendar is full of holiday parties,
winter balls, gift-making excuses, company dinners, Dickens Fair,
theater season, New Years Eve, cocktail parties, and 12th Night. You
might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale.  Whatever
the reason, h-costumers are probably making something.  So, what's
your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com

PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on
the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's in
your design sketchbook, on the worktable, in the quilt frame, at the
sewing machine or in the embroidery hoop.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com
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Re: [h-cost] Sourcing Help

[Carmen Beaudry]

It's petersham.  It looks like grosgrain ribbon, but the edges have little 
bumps instead of being perfectly smooth.  I get mine here:

http://www.jkmribbon.com/Store/catalog/petersham-rayon-grosgr,177.htm

Melusine


-Original Message-
From: Janyce Engan vpll.librar...@gmail.com
Sent: Oct 1, 2010 11:35 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Sourcing Help

Hopefully I can take advantage of the wide body of knowledge out there to
help me source this item.

I'm looking for the type of belting that was used inside garments to cinch
the garment tight to the body.  The examples that I have from vintage
clothing look to be a heavy woven silk with raised ridges - very much like
gros grain ribbon, but heavier.  Quite often the name of the company was
either stamped or woven into the band.  Like ribbon it's non-ravel on the
lengthwise edges

I've looked through various tailoring sites - and have found heavy loomed
cottons - but nothing close to what I'm looking for.

I'd even be happy cutting and sewing my own if I could find yardage
approximating what I'm looking for.  I've thought of the possibility of
sewing two layers of gros grain together - but would rather have something
already made up to work with.

Thanks for any help you can give.

Janyce Hill
VPLL
www.vpll.org
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Re: [h-cost] finding bolo tips

[Carmen Beaudry]

Shipwreck Beads carries them.  Do a search for them.

Melusine
- Original Message - 
From: Sylvia Rognstad syl...@ntw.net

To: thecostumersmanife...@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2010 2:55 PM
Subject: [h-cost] finding bolo tips


Does anyone have a source for bolo tips?  I put them on the ends of 
cording I use in my corsets.  They look great that way.  Hobby Lobby 
doesn't carry them anymore.





Sylvia Rognstad
Costume/clothing design  construction
Alterations  home dec
http://www.ezzyworld.com




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Re: [h-cost] Seam Insertions

[Carmen Beaudry]

Get yourself a copy of The Complete Encyclopedia of Needlework by Theresa 
de Dillmont.  I don't know who's publishing it now, but it was published by 
DMC and it's never been out of print since the mid-19th century.  In the 
Plain Sewing chapter, there is a section on openwork seams, with 
instructions.  I've done a lot of shirts with these seams, and they're 
strong and work up pretty fast.


Melusine
- Original Message - 
From: Jennifer Jones gueniveres-ch...@cox.net

To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2010 9:51 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Seam Insertions




After getting totally disgusted with my current smock for my Italian, I
decided it was time for a new one. I have the latest Patterns of Fashion 
and

would like to include some of their fabulous seam insertions.  I think I
know how to do it - but would like to know if anyone on this list has
experience, details, pictures, advice, etc.

Jennifer Jones


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Re: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ?

[Carmen Beaudry]

- Original Message - 
From: Kathryn Pinner pinn...@mccc.edu

Subject: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ?


Thanks for all your input. I've used that technique for belt loops and 
tacking linings in place, but never knew the name bride, and also never 
thought to use it as a reinforcement.
When using it as a neck opening slash reinforcement, do you think that it 
would be a short bar attached near the point on both sides, or would it be 
worked more like a buttonhole (or half a buttonhole) around the slash 
point catching the fabric?


Thanks again,
Kate


I do both.  I buttonhole stitch around the point of the slit, and then make 
a bride about a 1/4 inch up from the slit.


Carmen 


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Re: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ?

[Carmen Beaudry]

That would certainly reinforce it. Do you do the same for the lower end of 
side seams when they are open flaps and the cuffs?


Kate

Usually not the cuffs, unless the person I'm sewing for puts a lot of stress 
on that seam, but certainly on the side slits.


Carmen 


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Re: [h-cost] Sewing term - bride - 18/19thc?

[Carmen Beaudry]

In Costume Close Up by Linda Baumgarten  John Watson on page 107 
describing a late 18th century shirt neck opening, the authors state A 
buttonhole-stitched bride is worked at the point to reinforce the slashed 
opening. The bride appears to be a later replacement.

I have never heard of the term bride.  Anyone know this term?

Kate Pinner


It's a needlelace or cutwork term, referring to the buttonhole bars joining 
more solid areas.  They're also used to reinforce slits.


Carmen 


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Re: [h-cost] Sewing term - bride - 18/19thc?

[Carmen Beaudry]

Thanks.  Where might I find an image? 


http://www.monstonitrus.org/a_and_s/needlelace/needlelace.html

Carmen
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Re: [h-cost] London calling?

[Carmen Beaudry]

Oh, me too!  I'm not going until next year, but I still want to start 
planning out my must-sees.


Melusine
- Original Message - 
From: Hope Greenberg hope.greenb...@uvm.edu

To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 1:23 PM
Subject: [h-cost] London calling?


Does anyone have any recommendations for things not to be missed in London 
or Bath for lovers of historic costume? After the VA, the National 
Portrait Gallery and the Bath Museum of Costume, that is. Other museums? 
Best places to buy period-like fabric? Fabric bargain spots?


Any and all information gratefully appreciated.

- Hope

P.S. ...And good tea shop recommendations are also appreciated.
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Re: [h-cost] Washing linen trousers

[Carmen Beaudry]

I would venture that handwashing the trousers in cold water would cause no 
damage, especially since the owner is willing to press/starch as needed.


Denise B


As long as the trousers are kept out of the dryer, they should be fine 
UNLESS they are very heavily interfaced.  The reason one doesn't wash suits 
doesn't have much to do with the actual fabric, but quite a bit with the 
extensive interfacings.  However, it is a gamble, and if it were an item for 
which I had paid a lot, I would be inclined to have them cleaned.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] Quiet list

[Carmen Beaudry]

I'm working on a 1530's man's german renn outfit,  but it's going slowly 
since I've got just 10 days until finals.


Melusine 


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[h-cost] Williamsburg position

[Carmen Beaudry]

A while back, and I don't remember whether it was last year or before, someone 
posted a link to a job application for the position of Head of Costuming at 
Williamsburg.  I need to find out when that was, and I can't find it by 
searching the archives.

Can anyone help me out?

Thanks,

Melusine
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

[Carmen Beaudry]

Mine's wearing three fancy brocade table runners that will grow up to be a 
Victorian inspired jacket as soon as my current commisions are done.


Melusine

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Re: [h-cost] Peacock Wedding Dress

[Carmen Beaudry]

From: Carol Kocian aqua...@patriot.net
 I had some white peacock feathers at one time. I suspect they  
were bleached. The gold section was still metallic looking and  
another part was pinkish, with the rest being a cream color. They  
would have made quite an impressive dress, too.


There are white peacocks

Melusine
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?

[Carmen Beaudry]

Right now nothing, as I'm in the process of reworking the sewing room, but 
the wicker lady hanging from the ceiling has on a 1889 black silk Belgian 
corset.  As soon as I get rework done (last set of shelves to be made 
tomorrow!) I have 2 17th cen. petticoats to have done before the first of 
March.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] Eyelets with a buttonholer?

[Carmen Beaudry]

I'm thinking of buying a 1950's sewing machine with a buttonholer 
attachment, the kind that uses templates to make different size  buttons. 
Some of them have templates that make round eyelets, and  I'm wondering, 
has anyone used them for lacing eyelets on period  corsets and bodices?


I have a progressive hand condition, so it's important for me to keep  my 
handsewing to a minimum, and I can't bear the idea of using grommets!


Margo


I use machine sewn eyelets for most of my work, as most people don't want to 
pay me for the time to make them by hand.  I have a 2 year old Baby Lock 
that has eyelets programmed in, and before that, my 30 year old Kenmore did 
really nice ones with its buttonhole attachment until it finally refused to 
work any more.  I have arthritis in my hands, so there are certain things, 
like corsets and bodies, that I just can't do by hand anymore.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] corset for a singer

[Carmen Beaudry]

I costume an opera singer and so far she hasn't had any trouble singing in 
any of the corset styles I've made for her, and I haven't done them any 
differently that I would for anyone else.  In fact, she says that it's 
easier to sing in a well-fitted corset, as it adds support.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] corset for a singer

[Carmen Beaudry]

Thanks for sharing your experience. Just for my imagination: what 
bust-waist-hip reduction would you choose in this case? (Ho many cm 
smaller?)
I usually make the bust about 2cm smaller than the measured bust 
circumference, the waist...up to 10cm smaller...and the hips - no 
reduction.


Zuzana


I make my lady's about 3 inches smaller in the bust and waist, and allow 
about 4 inches of gap between the back edges.  She's pretty squishy, but 
she's also losing weight, and the extra gap allows for that, and for us not 
to have to replace her corsets so often.  I've also made what she and I call 
her manly garment, which is a corset made to even out her curves for when 
she plays male rolls.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] Silk Velvet seller in U.S.?

[Carmen Beaudry]

I've dealt with them for silk dupioni and taffeta.  Their prices are 
excellent, and so is their shipping and customer service.


Carmen
- Original Message - 
From: Suzi Clarke s...@suziclarke.co.uk

To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 5:06 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Silk Velvet seller in U.S.?





Has anyone dealt with this company? I am told I can get 100% silk velvet 
here.


http://www.silkbaron.com/silk/

Suzi

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Re: [h-cost] Silk Velvet seller in U.S.?

[Carmen Beaudry]

Dupion and Taffeta I can get here, at prices that
are higher, but don't involve shipping from the
U.S. and the resultant customs duty on goods over
£25.00. I can also get silk/rayon velvet at a
similar price, but 100% silk is way more expensive which is why I was 
asking.


Suzi

I haven't had a reason to order the velvet yet, but I've looked at it.  I'd 
email them and ask about it, I've always gotten a quick response from them.


Carmen

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Re: [h-cost] Silk Velvet seller in U.S.?

[Carmen Beaudry]

On Jan 14, 2009, at 1:31 PM, Carmen Beaudry wrote:

I've dealt with them for silk dupioni and taffeta.  Their prices  are 
excellent, and so is their shipping and customer service.


What weight is the taffeta?  Is it lining weight, or is it the  heavier 
sort?


Thanks,
Melanie Schuessler


I used it interlined with broadcloth for a 1625 doublet.  It's a medium 
weight, but it's got a lot of body.


Carmen 


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Re: [h-cost] Phrygian cap pattern?

[Carmen Beaudry]

- Original Message - 
From: Suzi Clarke s...@suziclarke.co.uk

snip
Thanks, but as this is a slightly jokey dress-up for a party type evening, 
I don't really need to go into too much detail. I did find a lovely 
picture of Louis Capet (Louis XVl) wearing one, 
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phrygian_cap) which I shall base mine on, 
and I believe somewhere in the collection of junk I've been given, I have 
a Conservative Party(rightish wing English political party) rosette in 
red, white and blue, which will do nicely. (And if anyone recognises it, 
it'll be funny in its own right!!)


Suzi


Well, I don't know about anyone else, but I just choked on my coffee reading 
this.  Now I REALLY want to see pictures.


Carmen 


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Re: [h-cost] Phrygian cap pattern?

[Carmen Beaudry]

Happy New Year to all.

I am being lazy, and asking for help before doing any research. My DH and 
I will be going to a fancy dress do (emphasis on not entirely accurate) as 
M. and Mme Thenardier from Les Mis. Mostly I can cobble together 
costumes from other stuff we have, but I would love him to wear a Phrygian 
cap with a rosette. Can anyone point me to a pattern, or something I can 
bodge from?


Suzi


I don't have anything to help you, but I want to see pictures!  Oh, and 
Happy New Year to you, too.


Carmen 


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Re: [h-cost] Titania 1935 costume construction?

[Carmen Beaudry]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

snip
Today I was reading a book by the author that turned me onto this film in 
the first place; the (fiction) book talks about the prior theater 
production in the Hollywood Bowl, and mentions fairies in cellophane.
In her Acknowledgments she cites help from the curator of the Reinhardt 
Document Collection and the Director of the Hollywood Bowl Museum -- so 
she's done some research.  Possibly the cellophane is something they told 
her, and possibly the costumer continued the use of it for the film.


Conjecture, but might be reliable.

The book, should anyone be curious, is _Rude Mechanicals_ by Kage Baker


Back when I was making belly dance costumes, I used a trim that was a very 
narrow openwork gimp, with colored metallic cellophane woven in and out of 
the openwork.  It came in every color of the rainbow and, if weighted by a 
paillette or bead at the end of each strand, imitated much more expensive 
beaded fringe very well, at least, at stage distance.


Melusine. 


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Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for bad examples)

[Carmen Beaudry]

While I haven't encountered it in making something, I have heard of
problems with fibromyalgia (if I spelled that right!) and similar
pain problems. Torso surgery or injury that, even after healing, can
leave a person with sensitive areas. And, of course, people who wish
to participate in events while in the healing process.


snip

I have fibromyalgia and arthritis, and I find that my properly fitted 
corsets are MUCH more comfortable that any bra.  I do have days that there's 
too much pain to wear anything fitted, but on those days I'm usually in bed 
with a lot of pain medication, not trying to do anything.


The trick for me is that the corset has to be short enough, and snug without 
being overly tight.  If it's too loose, then it rubs against me and causes 
pain, and also allows my ribs to pop out of joint.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?

[Carmen Beaudry]

Right now she's wearing a purple and black 1900 summer walking suit, with a 
pair of mens 1635 breeches in green brocade thrown over top of everything to 
keep them out of the way.


Melusine
- Original Message - 
From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: h-cost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 11:09 AM
Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?



It's that time of year: holiday parties, winter balls, theater season,
company dinners, Diskens Fair, New Years Eve, cocktail parties,12th
Night. You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical
locale.  Whatever the reason, h-costumers are probably making
something.  So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on
the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's on
your design sketchbook, worktable, at the sewing machine or in the
embroidery hoop.
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[h-cost] Need pattern instructions

[Carmen Beaudry]

Hi folks,

I'm in the middle of making several of Folkwear's #222, vintage vests.  I've 
got them all cut out and the front pockets set, only to find that I'm missing 
the directions to the view I'm making, and its collar is not the same as the 
others.  I've made this vest before, and I can probably figure it out, but 
since I need them finished by the end of the week, I really don't want to have 
to.  Does anyone have this pattern and would be willing to scan pages 3 and 4 
of the directions and email them to me?  I have the first page, just not the 
rest.

Thanks,

Melusine
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[h-cost] Need pattern instructions

[Carmen Beaudry]

Hi folks,

I'm in the middle of making several of Folkwear's #222, vintage vests.  I've 
got them all cut out and the front pockets set, only to find that I'm missing 
the directions to the view I'm making, and its collar is not the same as the 
others.  I've made this vest before, and I can probably figure it out, but 
since I need them finished by the end of the week, I really don't want to have 
to.  Does anyone have this pattern and would be willing to scan pages 3 and 4 
of the directions and email them to me?  I have the first page, just not the 
rest.

Thanks,

Melusine
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Re: [h-cost] Need pattern instructions

[Carmen Beaudry]

Don't you just hate that!!!


It happens too often when I get patterns from eBay. From now on its going 
to

be in my standard list of questions when buying patterns.


Sidney


I bought this one new, I've just used it a lot and can't remember where I 
might have put the rest of the instructions.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

[Carmen Beaudry]

 About how many costume/fashion related books or magazines do you own?
Somewhere around 500, more if you count the art books, but they're packed 
right now.


 What was the first one you purchased?  Where did you purchase it?
Payne's History of Costume.  I didn't purchase it, my high school 
librarian gave it to me when I graduated, since I was the only person who 
had checked it out in three years and I knew it well enough to quote page 
numbers.

 What was your most recent purchase?
Mode a Firenze

 What do you think was the best deal that you have every made when 
 purchasing a publication?
That copy of Payne was pretty good, other than that, probably paying $25 for 
Boucher's 20,000 Years of Costume.

 About how many period photographs do you own just for the costuming?
About 20.  I've also got a couple of framed hand-tinted fashion plates, and 
I've got tons of pictures of existant garments.

 What book or magazine is your most treasured...if your house was on fire, 
 you would take it with you.

My great-grandmother's copy of Encyclopedia of Embroidery.  It was 
originally her grandmother's.

 What is the worse costume book that you own?  I know Robin has a 
 collection!
Let There Be Clothes.  It perpetuates every costuming myth there is.  I 
keep it to show my students what not to use.

 Do you have a room devoted to your collection?

Well, it's my workroom, where I use them.

 When did you start collecting?
1976

 Do you consider your collection for business or pleasure?
 Business, but I would collect them even if I didn't costume for a living. 
Having the business just makes it easier to justify my obsessions.

 What was the most price of  you have ever paid for a book, collection of  
 work, etc.

$100 for Mode a Firenze.  Although, I've been looking at an out of print 
French book on costume in the reign of Louis XIII for $700.  It has pictures 
of garments that were lost during WWI and WWII.

 Optional questions:

 How many sewing machines do you own?  What types and age?
I'm down to 3 in the house right now:  My great-grandmother's 1909 Singer 
treadle, a Singer Featherweight that needs it's box repaired, and a 3 month 
old Brother.  My 1978 Kenmore just got reconditioned and sent to my youngest 
daughter.  Until fairly recently, I had 2 more electric machines and another 
treadle, but I pared them down.

 How many sewing patterns do you own?
The patterns live in two four drawer filing cabinets.  Probably half of 
those are one's I've drafted, but I collect patterns, usually when they're 
on sale for $1.  I like looking at them for inspiration and if I can start 
with a ready made pattern for something, great, that saves me a bit of time.

Melusine 

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[h-cost] Silk Taffeta on sale

[Carmen Beaudry]

Just thought I'd mention, Fashion Fabrics Club has silk taffeta for $9.95 yd.

http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/Catalog_items.aspx?Query=silk+taffeta+9.95

Melusine
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Re: [h-cost] dress in Stuart England

[Carmen Beaudry]

Sorry i post again, can it really be, that noone on the list knows anything 
about this book?


Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England (Paul 
Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art) (Hardcover)

by Aileen Ribeiro
Has it manny pictures, or is it more of a text book?

Bjarne

It's got great pictures, and lots of detail.  The text is also very good.  I 
use my copy all the time.


Melusine

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Re: [h-cost] Masque Costume

[Carmen Beaudry]

Does anyone have an online source of images of masque costume from about 
1580-1620? I already found a good page here http://tinyurl.com/25y7cz 
which gives me a great start, but any other images would be a great help.


Thanks.

Suzi


This page has most of the on-line images that I found.  I built a 1620's 
style masque costume for a client a couple of years ago, and most of what I 
found was in off-line sources.   The originals of the Inigo Jones designs 
are in the Devonshire collections at Chatsworth; one of the universities 
local to me has an 18th cen. copy that we used intensively.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] Speaking of Dress forms...

[Carmen Beaudry]

Hi there,

I am thinking about finally getting a dressmaker's form for myself, but I 
am not sure which type I should get.  Here is the dilemma, I am a woman of 
ample size (US size 26-28).  My hope is, as always, to drop some or a lot 
of weight, but if I waited to get dressform until I was down to my ideal 
weight, I would be waiting for several years to eternity.
When I pattern draft, I like to stick the pins directly into my mannequin. 
However, most of the home dress forms I have seen won't allow for that. 
So, what I want to know is: What dress form would you recommend for a for 
a gal like me?

Thanks,
--

*Peggy Viney *


Hi Peggy,

I've got one that's made of  foam rubber with a cloth cover that you take in 
to fit you exactly, then zip over the foam.  I think it's called Uniquely 
You, although since I got mine second hand from my aunt years ago I'm not 
sure.  They come in several size ranges, mine is about 14-20, although she 
may squish down smaller.  The thing I like about this one is, you can make 
several covers to fit different sizes within the range, and you can also 
corset it to work for different period costumes.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] Assistance with late Victorian gown patterns please?

[Carmen Beaudry]

(snip)
Query 2:  Where could I get an idea of what types of trimmings were used 
so that I can better visualize them?  I do okay with only written 
descriptions, but examples I can see work much better.  I have some long 
lengths of white gimp, a colored fringe and a white gimp/netted tassel 
combination that I think would look nice on a hem or edging, but that's 
without any knowledge, and I'd rather have something that doesn't look 
like an inspired costume.


I've got some antique trims from the 1880-1900 era if you'd like to come 
over and look at them.  Keeping me company while I tear my hair out, oop, I 
mean sew, would be ok, too.


Melusine

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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's wearing?

[Carmen Beaudry]

Right now Yasmine's naked, but there's two commissions that she'll be 
alternately wearing probably by the end of the week.


First one is a 1630-ish dress jacket and overskirt out of a cloth-of-silver 
brocade and  bottle green and pale gold brocade sleeves and stomacher.  I 
don't technically have enough fabric for the skirt, so I'm lining it with 
white satin and hoping the extra bulk will help disguise the lack.  The 
sleeves and stomacher are being pearled with smoke blue and white freshwater 
pearls, and silver and gold studs.


The other is an Elizabethan loose robe out of burgundy dupioni, with hanging 
sleeves of burgundy shot with black dupioni, embroidered in a diamond grid 
with gold.


I'm hoping to have both of those out the door this week, as I've got 4 other 
complete outfits to have finished before 12th Night.  I either need to hire 
help or scale back a lot.


Melusine (who shouldn't be on the computer, but hasn't had breakfast yet.) 


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[h-cost] Tasha Tudor collection

[Carmen Beaudry]

I just recieved the first issue of the new Victoria magazine, and there's an 
article devoted to Tasha Tudor's antique clothing collection.  Very pretty, 
mostly early 19th century dresses and jewelry.

Melusine
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Re: [h-cost] Repurposing fabric in the 1940s

[Carmen Beaudry]

My mother remade my Dad's Royal Air Force uniforms into shorts and shirts 
for my brother in the late 40's or early 50's. and my Dad was still in the 
Air Force.


Thing was, he got promoted to an officer, and all his  uniforms had to be 
replaced. So there was all this lovely Air Force blue wool going to 
waste...


I collect the odd sewing book, and have a lovely wartime book on how to 
make do and mend clothes that have moth holes, have shrunk etc. And I 
remember wool knit jumpers being unravelled, the wool washed, and new 
things made.


Suzi


I just gave away the last bits of Air Force wool from my dad's uniforms.  He 
retired in 1974.  I remember my mother and I both having suits made from 
that wool.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] Repurposing fabric in the 1940s

[Carmen Beaudry]

I just gave away the last bits of Air Force wool from my dad's uniforms. 
He retired in 1974.  I remember my mother and I both having suits made 
from that wool.

Melusine


Jeeze, I hope you kept the patches and insignia, I have boxes of the 
things.

One day, one day...

-C.


No, what I had was just the fabric.  The patches and his actual uniforms 
were in his storage unit when the facility burned.  He and my step-mother 
were full-time RV'ing, so they and the animals were fine, but they lost 
everything that wasn't in the motorhome, including family heirlooms.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] My dressmaker's dummy is wearing wool for winter

[Carmen Beaudry]

My dummy is currently naked, because the pink and black flamenco dress is 
finally done and delivered to the customer.  It's a gorgeous dress, with a 
black taffeta bodice embroidered with shaded pink flowering vines, and the 
ruffled sleeves and skirt ruffles done in alternating light and dark pink. 
I'm supposed to get pictures soon.


Next on the list is either an early 17th cen. French gown, or an early Tudor 
gown, depending on which customer gets me the fabric first.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen.

[Carmen Beaudry]

Subject: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen.



Hi,
Its ben a while since i ironed my linnen shirt, and considering that i 
have to iron some fine linnen cambric i have washed and tumbled.

Wich way is the best to iron it?
Should i wet it a little and let it get damped for a while before i iron 
it, or should i just steam iron it?


Bjarne


I spray my linen with a spray bottle of lavender water, then use a dry iron 
(ok, actually my mangle)on a very hot temperature to iron it.  It comes out 
beautifully.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] What I (horrifically) wore

[Carmen Beaudry]

8 platform shoes,

-C.


Oh my word! How on earth did you walk in them?

High heels are such a foreign concept to me. I've been singing my whole
life, and singers should never wear a heel over an inch high (throws off
your balance, which throws off your breathing). But then, being 5'9, I
never had to be concerned about being 'tall' either. ;)

Arlys


I spent a great deal of my live in musical theater, singing and dancing in 
3+ heels.  You need to learn how to stand, walk and dance, but believe me, 
you can sing in them, you just need to know how.


I also did ballroom and latin dance professionally, with a dance partner who 
was 6'8.  (I'm 5'2).  My dance shoes had 5 heels, because otherwise we 
looked ridiculous.  Even now, after a catastrophic car accident, back 
injuries and arthritis, I can wear heels, just not for every day, or all 
day.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume

[Carmen Beaudry]

I was thinking of what my next costume would be and I came to an 
interesting question.

What would be your dream costume?
If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise.


Well, I tend to make my dream costumes.  My good friends and family bought 
the materials for my Laureling gown:  10 yards of shot silk, silver metal 
lace, 150 freshwater pearls = one 1635 Cavalier gown.


Right now I'd like to have time to finish the mermaid's costume that I'll 
actually be able to swim in.


As far as historic costumes, I'd like a full, from the skin out, embroidered 
silk robe francaise and all the accoutrements.  I'm perfectly capable of 
making and embroidering it, it's just finding the time with all of my 
customers' orders.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?; Was: robe a la francaise grande panier.

[Carmen Beaudry]

2 months is an impressively short amount of time for such a project!

I get the sense from messages I have read that most folks on this list do
not make/study/write about historical clothing for a living.  Is this 
true?

If so, what do you all do to fund your need to build historical clothing?

I am an attorney by day but I am fascinated with all types of historical
clothing from about the 15th century through the 19th.  Someday I will 
focus

on one time period but I haven't yet.

Jennifer


I make costumes, mostly for reenactors, but I do a few theatrical 
productions, too.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] Stuff of interest in Seattle?

[Carmen Beaudry]

 It looks like there's a good chance that within the year, I'll be moving 
to the Seattle area. Is there anything out there of interest to h-cost type 
folks?   -E House, dreading packing and planning to start EARLY this 
time...


It depends on what period you're looking for.  European history out here 
started about 1840 or so, which limits some of the emphasis.  That being 
said, there's a lot of Asian and Native American textiles, costumes and 
artifacts in the museums, and some European stuff, you just have to look a 
bit for it.  The University of Washington has a fairly interesting 
collection at the Burke Museum.  If you're looking for reenactment groups, 
there's a bunch.  I don't know of any Rev. War groups, but a lot of Fur 
Trade, Civil War, etc.  There's the Beyond Realitiy Costumers Guild, which 
does historic as well as fantasy/science fiction costume, a lot of SCA 
groups, and a thriving theater scene.  As for interesting fabric stores, 
we've been cursed by most of them closing or getting bought out by the 
chains and then turning to craft stores with some fabric, but Nancy's Sewing 
Basket, although pricey, has got some great stuff.


Out of Seattle proper, but still close enough for day trips, the Portland 
Art Museum has some world class traveling exhibits, the one opening next 
month is the treasures of the Riksmuseum that was in Phoenix.  I do a lot of 
my fabric shopping in Portland or nearby, the Pendleton Woolen Mills outlet 
is in Washougal, and there are several interesting fabric stores.  Traveling 
the other direction, Vancouver, BC. is a great place for Indian and 
Pakistani textiles.


I live about 45 minutes south of Seattle, in Tacoma, and usually spend one 
day a week in Seattle doing fittings.  Let me know when you get here and 
maybe we can meet for coffee.


Melusine

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Re: [h-cost] 16th Century Hats

[Carmen Beaudry]

I think that any hat that is felted is so densely felted together that it 
is very durable. I don't know of any solution that makes a hat stiff. Must 
be one though.

Sincerely,
Rebecca Rautine


You can use hide glue to stiffen felt or buckram.  Hatmakers also use 
thinned shelac to stiffen and waterproof felt hats.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] Ahem-something interesting

[Carmen Beaudry]

Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ahem-something interesting





Well for one, a man would not hold his thang like that to pee.



No, but an artist would certainly paint it that way if he wanted to show 
the act, but not the anatomy.


Denise


I've also seen men holding themselves exactly like that when they were 
trying to be somewhat discreet.


Melusine
(who lived in Paris many years ago when there were still pissoirs on the 
streetcorners) 


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Re: [h-cost] Ahem-something interesting

[Carmen Beaudry]

Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ahem-something interesting



Another note,
The young gentleman in the foreground, dressed in yellow - is he wearing 
womens shoes or is it his own?
Just that i se a big difference for the other gentlemans shoes, and the 
yellow gentlemans shoes, looks very like the maids shoes on the right.


Bjarne


I've not found a great deal of difference between mens and womens shoes 
during the early 17th century, especially for indoor shoes.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] Medieval embroidery

[Carmen Beaudry]

I've sent my contact the images already cited as proof-of-concept for
Tudor period, and the information posted here that there were stitches
that could be reversible. That's a good start, but for publication
purposes she needs a published source on the stitch types for that period
(as seen in real examples); is there a book that examines historic
stitching with close regard to period, e.g. not just saying this stitch
is medieval but rather these stitches appear in X type of artifacts from
Y time and Z place?

Holy grail here would be examples of embroidery from c. 1400 clearly meant
to be viewed on the reverse. Possibly not available, though. Extant pieces
from 1400 are a lot rarer than from 1550.

But it's not my area so I don't know all the standard sources the way I do
in my own specialties.

--Robin


The book you're looking for is History of Western Embroidery by Shuette. 
I think I've got that right, if I don't, please someone correct me.  Good 
luck trying to find it, though.  It's been out of print for ages, the copy I 
owned fell victim to a friend's bad divorce and was destroyed, and my local 
library's copy has been stolen.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] Medieval embroidery

[Carmen Beaudry]

To my knowledge -- and blackwork isn't my thing -- blackwork is
later than 1400.  There are more knowledgeable folks on this list than
I in that respect.

susan

There is a form called Assisi work, uses the same stitches as blackwork, but 
was often worked in red, and I believe there's extant examples of that from 
the 12th cen. (1100's).  I'll see what I can dig up.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] Re: theatrical vs. historic costuming

[Carmen Beaudry]

Y'all must read/hear/see stuff in places I don't, or something...  Where, 
exactly, do people go on and on about the historical accuracy of 
costumes  or content in cinematic movies?


If we're talking about The Tudors, the Showtime (or HBO, can't keep them 
straight) program guide.


And why do people expect *anything* in the entertainment industry to be  
accurate -- historically or otherwise?  It's entertainment. If you want 
living history and period authenticity there are better places to expect 
it than the movies.  JMO


Denise
Iowa


Yes, there are.  However, there are films that do period costumes and 
settings correctly, and I enjoy those much more than those that pretend to 
do so and don't.  I've been watching French costume films (Cyrano, Reine 
Margot) and by and large the costume are much better than American films. 
Maybe that's becauseFrench directors think the French audience is better 
informed about the times being portrayed.


Melusine


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Re: [h-cost]Theater vs Historic (was:new Butterick pattern

[Carmen Beaudry]

Frankly, I thinking working with fabrics in authentic widths would be a
blast.  But then, I'm here more for the historical/reenactment end of
things.  And if I ever win the lottery (not that I play, mind you, 
but),

then porsches be darned, I'm getting some of those exquisite silk velvets
that cost, what was it, 1500? 1600? euro/meter?
--Sue


I'm with you thereand then I want to just roll around on it for a while.

Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] new Butterick pattern 5061

[Carmen Beaudry]

This reminds me of...
One thing I am sure of is that the armseye of the upper garments will not 
be  as high as the originals nor the bottoms as capacious .  These would 
grace  any stage quite nicely.  Owning originals that are Not comfortable 
for actual modern wear, in a  'Costumesituation, these would do quite 
nicely if done in the usual muslin  of their counterparts.


Kathleen


And if you get rid of the velcro closures.

Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] new Butterick pattern 5061

[Carmen Beaudry]

On May 2, 2007, at 5:54 PM, LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:


This reminds me of...
One thing I am sure of is that the armseye of the upper garments will not 
be as high as the originals nor the bottoms as capacious .  These would 
grace any stage quite nicely.


That sounds like a veiled insult to  theatrical costume designers.

Sylrog


I sure didn't take it as such.

Melusine (who started out in theater and still does theater costume part 
time) 


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Re: [h-cost]Theatrer vs Historic (was:new Butterick pattern 5061)

[Carmen Beaudry]

(snip about percieved insult to theatrical designers)
You didn't?  Am I just being overly sensitive?  I often feel like 
historical re-enactors and reproducers of accurate historical costumes 
look down their noses to a certain extent at theatrical costume designers 
because the latter  don't usually attempt complete authenticity.


Sylrog


I may be a bit optimistic, and I know that some historic costumers 
automatically discount anyone who designs for the stage, but I don't think 
this was the case here.  I'm sure the original poster will correct me if I'm 
wrong.


I do historic reenactment and recreation.  Most of my customers want very 
historically accurate clothing for reenactment.  That being said, I enjoy 
the different emphasis to costuming for the theater.  I enjoy trying to 
realize the director's vision, to express the character through the costume 
and evoke the various moods.  I do try to make that historically accurate 
whenever possible, but sometimes it's not.  Whether that's the production of 
Hamlet that was done all in dull browns, greys and other muddy shades due to 
the director's ideas, or the production of The Misenthrope that we did in 
1635 costumes rather than the 1670's that were actually appropriate, because 
we could borrow the one, and we would have had to make the others, and we 
had a $500 costume budget.  Wasn't going to get done, and while it somewhat 
offended my sensibilities, for the most part the audience didn't know it 
wasn't meant to be.


I'm actually developing a lecture for next year on why and when you would or 
would not want to be completely accurate with a costume.  It's just in the 
ruminating stage right now, but I'd welcome any thoughts from y'all.


Melusine 


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Re: now costume design, was Re: [h-cost] new Butterick pattern 5061

[Carmen Beaudry]

I didn't either.  As both a historian and a costume designer, I see  no 
reason to be embarrassed about the very good reasons why accuracy   is 
often compromised on the stage.  I still groan when I watch films  with 
terribly bastardized fashions, but I can often tell why they did  it. 
Telling the story is first priority.  Accuracy is icing for the  geeks.  :)


Melanie Schuessler


Exactly.  The ones that really irk me are the ones where the story would be 
better served by most accurate costumes and they still don't.


I just read a very interesting article about Memoirs of a Geisha.  Lisa 
Dalby, who is the only non-Japanese ever trained as a geisha, was a 
consultant on the film, and was upset that they didn't use the correct 
make-up, but did a modified version, until she overheard a couple of 
stagehands talking about how wierd the complete white-faced look was to 
them.  She realized that, in order to portray the women as beautiful and 
sexy, the traditional make-up had to be modified for the modern and western 
audience, that where a Japanese (and especially an older Japanese audience 
would see them as being beautiful, the intended audience would not.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] new Butterick pattern 5061

[Carmen Beaudry]

I didn't go so far as to read the instructions.  Alas...

Presently working in miniature, I struggle nightly in trying to create my 
doll costumes using all the pieces that would have made the shapes if I 
were  doing them for people; it is hard indeed to compromise, but I have 
not yet  bent to Velcro.  Yeah.  At least the dolls don't complain if I 
pin the waist  band (As I am finding to be the method more often used in 
times of youe.


kathleen


And I didn't think of quick changesI'm not sure why, as I'd like to have 
a dollar for every 30-second change I've had to sew for.  My favorite was 
the 1880's day dress to 1880's evening dress in 92 seconds.  Yes, I put 
multiple zippers in those, and had 4 people dressing and undressing her in 
the wings.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] new Butterick pattern 5061

[Carmen Beaudry]

Chuckle...And I bet you didn't try to enter that one in a contest? 
Except,  perhaps And how many Zippers did you manage to get in on this 
one?


Makes me think of the first time I remember the leather store on the board 
walk of Provincetown !!

Kathleen


Nope, and you couldn't see the zippers from off stage, either.

Melusine 


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Re: now costume design, was Re: [h-cost] new Butterick pattern 5061

[Carmen Beaudry]

From: Sharon Collier [EMAIL PROTECTED]

She wrote a book, too, Geisha, By Liza Dalby
ISBN #0-394-72893-9. Mine was published by Vintage Books, division of Random
House, in 1985.
Originally published Berkeley: University of California Press 1983

Yep, I've got that one, also the book she published in 2001 on Kimono.

Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] Re: hand rolled hems

[Carmen Beaudry]

(snip about sewing birds and other clamp-type things)


I've seen those, and also wondered about the heavy/stiff pillows it
looks like stitchers are using in some of the 17/18C paintings.  A
couple of examples:
http://www.arthistory.cc/auth/velazquez/index.htm  scroll down to 'The
Needlewoman'

Interior with a Mother by Willem van Mieris  and The Letter Writer
Surprised by Gabriel Metsu (both are on the http://www.wga.hu site ).


Seems to be a very similar style of tall basket also used at this time
for mending and/or sewing supplies.

One of those pillows might work pretty well for me, it would be
adjustable.  When I try and pin what I am working on to the chair that
is, naturally, the time the cat wants a lap :).

Catherine


I've only had my clamps for about a year; before that, I used to pin my work 
to a chair arm, part of my clothing, etc.  My greatgrandmother taught me to 
pin my work to the knee of my jeans when I was in high school, that worked 
pretty well.  The advantage of a clamp or the pillows, is that you can get 
up for a cup of tea without your work being attached to you.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] hand rolled hems

[Carmen Beaudry]

Sewing birds? Anyone have a pic they would like to share? :-)

Arlys


Here's the one(s) I have.2 different people gave them to me for Yule.
http://www.lacis.com/catalog/search.php

Melusine
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing today?

[Carmen Beaudry]

Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing today?



I just love starting this thread... such interesting answers.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes


Right now Yasmine's completely naked!  I just removed the 
burgundy/gold/black 1625 French Cavalier dress that I've been renovating for 
a client (yes!  it goes back home tomorrow!).  I'm trying to decide if the 
black velvet Henry VII gown needs to go on next, or if I can put my ropa on 
her so I can re-pleat the back.


I think I need a boyfriend for Yasmine.anyone got a male dummy about 
size 42 cheap?


Melusine

Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] hand rolling hems

[Carmen Beaudry]

On Fri, 27 Apr 2007, Dawn wrote:


Trim off any fraying edges. Take the edge of the fabric between your
thumb and finger and try and roll it into a narrow hem. Curse. Snip
off any frayed bits you caused. Take tiny stitches with the other
hand. Repeat.


I'll confess this is how I've always done it. But not long ago -- maybe
even on this list? -- I read of a quicker technique that had to do with
making a tiny fold and stitching alternately above the raw edge and then
into the edge of the fold; take a few stitches, pull, and the hem rolls
itself. But I may be missing a step or trick here, and it probably matters
exactly how you point the needle. I am half-remembering a diagram which
may have been on a webpage or may have been someone's ASCII drawing on the
list. Does this ring bells for anyone?

--Robin


Yes it does.  I sent a file with illustrations to the original poster 
privately, since this list doesn't take attachments.  It also helps to use a 
sewing clamp as a third hand to keep the fabric taut.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question

[Carmen Beaudry]

From: Sharon Collier [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Just my 2 cents worth, but when I looked at the pic on the front of the
pattern, the armseye seems too large. If you look at the pics of Helen
Mirren in these gowns, the sleeves fit tightly up under the arm. Gives a
more period look, but maybe is not so comfortable or easy to fit for today's
folks.

This is counter-intuitive, but the more fitted the armseye, the more 
movement you have, as long as the sleeve head rests on the point of the 
shoulder.  I make Elizabethan and Cavalier doublets and bodices for rapier 
combat and making the armseye too big makes the whole garment pull with 
movement and actually restricts the arm.  However, it has to be fitted to 
the individual, not made as an approximation or average, which is why most 
modern clothes are so loose.


Melusine




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Re: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking (was: Re: Childrens costumes)

[Carmen Beaudry]

It's called Canadian smocking. 
http://www.savvyseams.com/techniques/canadian.php
It goes by other names as well, as this page will tell you. It is incredibly 
consumptive but its well worth it. It took me a good couple of hours to 
grasp how it's done; I am left handed and have to mentally invert 
instructions like this. I only wish that I could document its use to the 
16th c. Best as I can figure its exclusively 19th or better. I've seen it 
used in several Elizabethan-era movies lately, though.

(snip)
Kathy

I'm finding a couple of Italian portraits that look as if this might have 
been how the sleeves were done, only from the back.  I think I've actually 
seen one that has the latticework look to it, but I'm not finding it.  I'll 
keep looking.


http://www.wga.hu/support/viewer/z.html  This looks like the back of lattice 
smocking.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking

[Carmen Beaudry]

 Carmen Beaudry wrote:
 
 
 http://www.wga.hu/support/viewer/z.html  This looks like the back of 
 lattice smocking.
 
 That's not a valid link. Do you recall the title and artist?
 Dawn

sightry this one:  http://www.wga.hu/index1.html  
Portrait of Lucrezia Panciatichi by Bronzino
Melusine
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Re: [h-cost] 1960s/1970s Fringed Clothing for Males

[Carmen Beaudry]

The fashion definitely started in the '60's, part of the hippie Native
American stuff.  (snip)


Here's some pics from Woodstock, 1969, both Jimi Hendrix and Roger Daltrey 
are wearing fringed outfits.

http://www.woodstock69.com/file6.htm
I grew up in the San Francisco Bay area and I seem to remember fringe on 
jackets, especially leather Davy Crockett type jackets on the Haight 
Ashbury crowd in 1966.  I'm looking for pictures of finge pre-1969, but so 
far no luck.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] 1960s/1970s Fringed Clothing for Males

[Carmen Beaudry]

Melusine,

Thank you so much for the link.  Those are the jackets in the videos I saw 
on The Tube.


Penny Ladnier,


You're welcome, I've been enjoying the trip down memory lane.  I was a 
little young to be directly involved in the Summer of Love, but I remember 
what San Francisco was like in 1966.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] Nanban trader...

[Carmen Beaudry]

Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nanban trader...


My first question, of course, is: what would they wear? I can find tons 
of information on Spain for these years (and gorgeous outfits too), but 
nothing on Portugal. Well... yes and no. Royalty seems to be 
interchangeable between Spain and Portugal at the time -- or is this 
just a case of my having not done enough research yet and getting the 
wrong impression?


Here's some artwork from Japan showing the traders.

http://gallery.sjsu.edu/encounters/orient/orient-Thumb.3.html

Melusine
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[h-cost] Portugese costume

[Carmen Beaudry]

http://www.jessamynscloset.com/homepage.html

A bunch of images and info about Spanish and Portugese costume.
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Re: [h-cost] Help finding an article?

[Carmen Beaudry]

- Original Message - 
From: Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help finding an article?


I have it.  It's not a very good copy, but I do have it.  Do you still need 
it?


Melanie Schuessler


Genie Barrett wrote:

Hello All,

I am trying to find a copy of Janet Arnold's copy of: Elizagethan and 
Jacobean Smocks and Shirts that is in Waffen-und Kostumkunde Pt. 2 
(snip)


I don't know if she still needs it, but I'd like it.

Melusine
([EMAIL PROTECTED])

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Re: [h-cost] Christmas gift exchange

[Carmen Beaudry]

I recieved a lovely album of baroque lute music, which I have yet to have 
time to play.  This is wonderful, for I am always looking for music from my 
favorite period (early 17th cen.).


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold

[Carmen Beaudry]

At 18:58 06/12/2006, you wrote:
If you're talking about the shirts book, I kind of do. It's still hung up 
in legal issues - estate, copyright, permissions... the typical yadda 
yadda for publishing a book of this nature. It happens that my research 
crosses over hers, a couple of the shirts in the Met collection are 
included in this book. But because hers is far more diverse, the chances 
of my publishing first are greater than her estate beating me to it. I am 
to understand her estate has enough material to publish 4 more books. It's 
just a matter of sifting through it all and assembling it appropriately. 
Kathy




hi, Does any of you know any news about the last Arnold Book wich was 
supposed to be published? I am awaiting it impatiently Bjarne



The last I heard, the completion of the book(s) had been handed over from 
the original literary executors to another person. This, of course, will 
have caused a delay, not counting the time lost immediately after her 
death. She told me, only a few weeks before she died, that she had 
completed the fourth draft of the first book. Unfortunately it never 
occurred to me to ask which she meant by the first book. I know she was 
planning the shirts/ruffs/supportasses book as one unit, and the other 
one, I understood, was to have included more men's costumes.


Suzi


I had heard something about one of them being the missing book for the 
period between 1620 and 1660.  Do any of you know anything about that?


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

[Carmen Beaudry]

At 18:58 01/12/2006, you wrote:

It's that oh so fashionable time of the year.  Holiday parties, gifts,
theater season, formal dress of all eras. Maybe even a New Years Eve
ensemble  What are you working on?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Mine is wearing padding, a shift, corset and pink check pocket hoops for a 
sacque I am making for a lady to wear at the Venice Carnival in February 
next year. There is a caraco jacket and petticoat to follow, plus three 
more suits, (I have made one)  a waistcoat, and three shirts for her 
husband. Holiday, what holiday!?


Suzi


I'm with you, Suzi.  This is my busiest season, with most of my clients 
wanting things for 12th Night, or Mardi Gras.  Right now, Yasmine is wearing 
pink striped fabric that is to be a new cover for her if I ever get a minute 
to make it up.  Over that is draped a royal blue wool cassock that needs to 
go out the door next Thurs.  Next up is an early 17th cen. court suit in 
slate blue and red, trimmed in gold, made from a silk sari supplied by the 
customer.  Not correct for the period, but it is going to look nice.  I'm 
also trying to get a forest green trimmed with royal blue 17th cen. suit 
done for my husband, in my copious spare time.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] OT - +size swimwear

[Carmen Beaudry]

Here's a couple of links.  I've bought from Junonia before and their quality 
is good.


http://www.junonia.com/subDepartment-5-Swimwear.htm

http://www.eddiebauer.com/eb/cat_default_rollover.asp?nv=3|21473|1159|1252tid=c=referringurl=http%3A//www.eddiebauer.com/eb/cat_default_rollover.asp%3Fnv%3D3%7C21473%7C1159%26tid%3D%26c%3D

Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] A curious French doublet

[Carmen Beaudry]

Very curious and interesting!  Thanks for sharing.  The only other 
asymmetrical men's doublets that come to mind are from much earlier, like 
the Barthel Beham scorekeeper from 1529.


What about this one:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/ElizabethKnollys.jpg

I've always wondered where it closes.  Is that diagonal frogging on an 
asymmetrical closure inside the loop of the necklaces?  (And I love the 
necklace going over one shoulder and under the opposite arm...)


Melanie Schuessler


I've just spent some time in Paris looking at old costume picture and 
documents.  Without looking at my notes, I seem to remember at least 3 buff 
coats or arming doublets from right around the end of the 16th-early17th 
cen. having side closures.  In one case, this was to enable the front to be 
made of three layers of leather.  Makes sense, since these were used as 
armour.  I seem to also remember some Turkish coats from the same time 
period closing on the side.


Melusine 


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Re: [h-cost] recent history

[Carmen Beaudry]

There are lots of 80's movies that could be rented depending on her age.



ah, of course!  but it wouldn't be a true school project if you let mom 
know more than 12 hours ahead of time what you require.  The library is 
closed and there isn't a movie rental place within a half-hour's drive. 
I'll try IMDB though and see if I can find some movie shots.  thanks


Denise B


Use Google image search for Cyndi Lauper.  She pretty much iconised the 80's 
look.


Melusine 


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[h-cost] Paris, France

[Carmen Beaudry]

Does anyone on the list live in or about Paris, France?  I'm going to be 
visiting from the 14th to the 23rd of Sept., and would like to ask a few 
questions.

thanks,

Melusine
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Re: [h-cost] Paris, France

[Carmen Beaudry]

I don't live there but have been several times. (born there).  Maybe I can
help.

Anne
Thanks, Anne, but I'm travelling to Paris Sept. 13th, staying until the 
23rd, and would like to meet up with someone from the list if possible.


Melusine



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Carmen Beaudry
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 3:47 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Paris, France

Does anyone on the list live in or about Paris, France?  I'm going to be
visiting from the 14th to the 23rd of Sept., and would like to ask a few
questions.

thanks,

Melusine


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Re: [h-cost] Corset at Manchester Galleries

[Carmen Beaudry]

Snip
Though I do have a question, hopefully someone where has studied the art 
of
making stays; why is it that before the 19thC strips of baleen used for 
the

bulk of stays were so incredibly narrow? I'm sure you get more flexibility
with it but still have a very supportive garment. But is the benefit so
great for so much more extra work? Was it down to the methods of cutting
perhaps?

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com


I don't know why it was done that way, but the 1889 corset I own has baleen 
strips that are just as narrow as the early corsets, and much more narrow 
than the one I own from the same era that's boned with steel.


Melusine 


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