Re: [h-cost] Unidenitified object
http://picasaweb.google.com/Charlene281/20100404?feat=directlink I bought something identical to it from Goody hair accessories back in the early 80's. It was for doing rolled, 40's style hairdos, and I believe it was a repro of something from that time. You were supposed to catch the ends of your hair between the two halves and then roll it up. I never could make it work properly. Sometimes in simplifying something, they make it unusable. The new modern hair ratts are what they though they were trying to simplify... but you needed very long hair to use them. I so prefer these kinds of flexible ratts: http://www.wilshirewigs.com/5334---Sm-Ratt-With-Elastic-pr-2410.html You can actually tuck long hair between the elastic and the rat and roll. Short hair you need to pin into the ratt, AND the ends of the elastic (rolled against the ratt) help you secure pins. Much better than the hard plastic. These do '40's do's as well as Gibson girl, Victorian, and anything that needs a roll instead of forcing just one shape Note: don't confuse these withe the other modern substitute, standard sponge rolls. You can't pin on those, you'd be better off w/ the hard plastic. -Cat- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Help
Grid square or image blow up only gets you so far. The big catch is your body is not not like the body in the pattern... and it's not just a matter of grading to size up. If you're working off a grid pattern made for modern bodies.. grids will work... if you know the original measurements that the pattern was made for before it was reduced... say the quarter inch become 1. You divide your measurements into theirs. ie if you waist is 1.5 times bigger than the pattern, but you're .75 of their length, and your bust is the same... You have to shorten the pattern by a quarter while expanding the waist 50%. (This worked well for me blowing up Hunnisseete patterns.) The bust will be closer... but you are still going to need to mock it up and adjust the curves a bit. The problem you get into when doing this from a period pattern, the body shape is a LOT different due to corset, standard posture, etc. You are going to have to do a LOT more adjusting. The skirts will be easier than a bodice... since the skirts are mostly just long lines that can be adjusted by just pivoting. Your bodice pieces aren't nearly as forgiving. You can enlarge the square grid by math and then you can do standard pattern adjustment of clip and pivot, BUT... unless you know the measurements the pattern was made for... you're kinda stuck there... Oh, and don't forget on measurements... you're talking about over the underpinings to get your corseted waist and bust Personally... for the bodice area... I think a better bet is to drape the bodice over the underpinnings on the person who the dress is for. Look at the book for the shape of the draped pieces... ie where to put the seams, side, bust aligned, collar, etc. Another advantage of this, in the sleeve area, you make the decision if you want to really make the sleeves as restrictive as they were for that period, or add more modern movement. (You're not as accurate, but if you're not into wearing historical garments as much, you may choose movement over accuracy.) -Cat- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Best time to buy a machine ( was Re: Husqvarna Viking Machines
My favorite time to buy is always late summer / early fall at the County Fair. Find the sewing pavillian and be prepared to spend a while hanging out and testing. ALL the dealers will be there so you can cross compare machines. You can buy a demo machine at a great discount and often they have fab packages to go with. Sometimes you just reserve the demo and pick it up towards end of fair, sometimes you get it at that time. Do your research in advance... so you know a bit about if you're going for the latest model or just looking for a great deal. Warning while you get to look and see everything, you're also going to be working with their best sales folks. If you're going to be getting something on the top end unless you go in knowing the other prices... collect the info... and take a breather. At least get away from that area for a few hours. Better... overnight at least to do research on the web. Check the cost of the extras to see if you're getting a good deal on those too. (Most times you do, but sometimes...) If you're not buying the absolutely latest machine, confirm the price you're getting on the older model really is a deal. (Again, most times it's a steal... but occasionally hard-sell salesmen are dumping on commission if you come back with real prices... those prices will dump and you don't have to worry about getting it mail order.) The good thing: these machines are being demoed by real experts so you can really see everything they can do. Insist on a test drive. While the big guns are demoing... these machines are backed by a local sewing center. OK, in a really big city, local may be relative... but still you've got someone you can drive to. Often local dealers will give free lessons. (Note, the lessons, they're going to try and sell you more stuff while you go along... but if you buy the good foot pack at the show, you already have the extra feet.) One more warning... don't let them push you into overbuying what you need. You'll feel like a kid in a mega candy store... but if you're coming in for just a good sturdy sewing machine... (Viking), you don't need a lot of the funky bells and whistles, keep your head down and buy what you need and stick to your budget. Then again... if you are going for that new Viking Embroidery machine... hey, it's just your Christmas present for the next 3 years (or your next car)... and just enjoy. -Cat- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Elisabeth: The golden age
There was also the mention of zipper tabs being able to be seen on a few pieces, but I had a hard time spotting them. At first I though I was seeing zip tabs, in fact sometimes on the weird center front closing on the gowns. However, when going over the exhibit pics of the gowns from the Arclight exhibit I found it's a lace and hook arrangement. Check out the detail here, under Bodice Closing http://www.alleycatscratch.com/exhibit/Arclight/Elizabeth/Purple_Gown.htm Interesting closing, doubt greatly it's historical. -Cat- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] cutting for all
Yeah, I thought it might be just a huge book with many links and sources... well, what I'm looking for, is anything about drafting and patterns. Historical methods and professional modern methods, on a rather higher level. Something like these Rundschau magazines I recently talked about... Do you think it might be helpful for me? No information in the book on techniques. Just list and lists of where to find information. (I missed the earlier discussion, sorry.) -Cat- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] cutting for all
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0809320061/thecostumersmani I would be interested in reading this book. Picked this up years ago at the Smithsonian, so the review will have lots of dust on the memory... It's not something that is read. It is literally lists and lists of sources on where the information is. It would help you locate obscure sources if you're into extreme research or you needed complete situations on books and sources that you didn't have at your fingertips (like you're xeroxed from old book years ago and lost the full cites) This is just IMHO, and though a cobwebbed memory. -Cat- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Valuation of collection
Having gone some of this route myself... be very careful about validation. And don't get trapped into what he's saying. The rules for things like books and clothing are garage sale prices. (Boy, did I skate by on my book collection. Tilki = $2 G) And, the reality is, if you try to sell the pieces... they sell as used. Not only are you likely to not get your labor, but not get your material costs at liquidation prices... which is what you've got to use. Don't be prideful and values them at what they're worth to you, or insurance rates. Ex: My Snow Queen had over $1500 in materials alone and was in excellent condition. It could sized up and down a lot was covered in hand beading and crystal and all kinds of extras from wig to shoes. I worked on it for over 2 years to create a living sculpture Even with the most advertising I could muster, and selling near Halloween, it went for under $325. I couldn't even get e-bay sales on some of the other things because they were not what folks wanted. They ended up sold to neighbors and thrift shops for $25 to $35, even with hand beadings and embroidery... because to them they were just rental costumes... and not the flashy kind. (The exception was a flashy disaster of a t-tunic that had never been finished that folks fought over because they though it said Harry Potter... and I made money on that thing.) If your hubby argues at the low set prices. Ask if he'll split the cost of having someone come in and value them value-for-sale prices... and use a vintage clothing/costume dealer, not a historic expert. IF he doesn't like it, ask him to do the work of listing the pieces you're selling on e-bay and see what you get (and then value the pieces you're keeping from the same prices.) There is NO need for you to dance to his tune. He's forfeit any claim at this point to even suggest. Go with the letter of the law. -Cat- Been there, done that, and even lost the t-shirt off my back but at least I have a spine now. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Edwardian Straight Front Theory
I needed to make a straight-front corset to go with Janet Arnold's 1901 Ribbon Dress for my sister's wedding. I did it minus patters and mocking up on check fabric (to keep the grain though out). Basically I worked from the much earlier laughing moon pattern sheet (didn't have the pattern w/ me) and Corsets and Crinolines. If you look at the partner pieces and drawing... the first thing you really notices is that the straight front corsets have real HIPS! The hip area is not just an extension of smoothing the waist, it's flaring out to embrace a newly discovered sexy part of the woman. G My pieces ended up staying fairly similar on top except for sucking in the bust lines a bit in front, and releasing out the back. In the bottom... that's where the magic happens. I took in as much as I could at the waist area and release in the hip area... release to the sides and back in a fairly even manner. It worked. That part of the body is fleshy and you can move it around w/ just a little containment and not tight-lacing. In my final... the waist area were really thin strips, the hip pieces are giant. By the time the pattern was done, I could see why some of the commercial manufactures went to separate hip pieces, but I had enough interlining I felt safe. If I remember correctly, the biggest back hip pieces had a 1:4 ration. Oh, while making it... I did a bit of temp boning and front and back to keep those lines cleaner while testing the last couple of mock ups. I topped this off with a ruffled corset cover to help fill out the top of the S. My sister's hips didn't need the pad. (And to help keep the hip line clean, I used waist bands about 2- 4. The underskirt was a typical gathered layered skirt with a rope kick panel at the bottom and the outer layer was exactly from Hunissette's circular ruff petticoat These layers all add together to give that shape illusion... and w/o needing to tight lace the corset. -Cat- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Once last time: The Tudors: Royal Stylemakers
Well, the Tudor Royal Stylemaker special is now out all over the place. It's showing on Showtime a lot over the next couple of week. It's on Showtime on Demand. It's also on their website, but there it's very small and dark so can't appreciate the costumes really well. Get the full schedule of showings at www.sho.com and follow the links for style. (Warning, avoid clicking on the fashion trends after watching the main show... it's painful... G but that's by another company and they've really stretched the fashions of the Tudors beyond the breaking point.) Even if you're not into modern fashion, the section that interviews the costume designer is quite nice. She talks about how she re-envisions the period and some of her inspirations. If you want to check out your friends' pictures and read the credits, tape it... they go fast. -Cat- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: tudors news
For some reason I got an email yesterday from the film company that makes or distributes The Tudors, which was discussed here. (I don't get cable so I've never seen it). Apparently they think I might like to become a stock holder! Hey, you've been invited to become part of the whole Hollywood production machine. G That's probably Peace Arch, the production company. The rest of your answers... I'm getting from the Showtime folks Anyway, the headline of the email was that The Tudors will have a second season. How much time did it cover, anyway? First season: Supposedly each episode of the 10 episodes in Season 1 covers one year of Henry's reign. . . although Michael Hirst has acknowledged that he's fudged with history. It's Henry from around age 25 up until the court procedings to divorce Katherine of Aragon. (yea, I hear the groaning, that's why it's in quotes.) Second season (warning this sounds like a commercial and didn't look up to see what years it really is): The second season will be even juicier than the first as we get into the infamous marriage of Henry VIII to Anne Boleyn, the birth of their daughter Elizabeth (who would one day become the greatest ruler in English history), the execution of Sir Thomas More, the Reformation of the church under the zealous supervision of Thomas Cromwell, and, finally, the infamous beheading of Anne after only three years of marriage. HEADS WILL ROLL! Oh... and while we're talking about The Tudors, got some more dates on the fashion special. It is making it to Showtime with lots of regular On-Air and getting a few more STYLE Network plays: Friday, April 27: 7:40 pm on SHO Saturday, April 28: 2 a.m. on STYLE Sunday, April 29: 12:30 am on SHO and 10 am on STYLE Friday, May 4: 8:35 pm on SHO Wednesday, May 9: 10:35 pm on SHO Tuesday, May 15: 8:40 pm on SHO Wednesday, May 23: 3:40 pm on SHO Saturday, May 26: 2:05 pm on SHO Sunday, May 27: 6:35 pm on SHO Thursday, May 31: 10:40 pm on SHO -Cat- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: AIR DATES: THE TUDORS: ROYAL STYLEMAKERS
It is not on Showtime On Demand. But The Tutors episodes 1-3 are On Demand. I watched it last night. Not yet. Style network has an exclusive right now. Showtime on Demand for sure at some point. Maybe's on E! and Showtime itself. It's all a rating game. -Cat- ___ h-costume mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: AIR DATES: THE TUDORS: ROYAL STYLEMAKERS
I'm going to catch a couple of questions at once since I'm on digest... I tuned in rather late and saw some unrelated segments, but then at the end, over the closing credits, were some re-enactor photos. Was there something earlier? There's another segment in the middle, plus details shots are used as examples in various spots like blackwork, codpieces, partlets and they did one morph from that yellow runway dress into our of the group's Tudor outfits. If so, I'll tape on the replay. As for the photos at the end ... who's who? Is there a list somewhere? MK went though and credited everyone. No, they're not in order. I searched EVERYWHERE on my cable and was never able to find the show. Is it under another channel? Style is normally under extended basic or extended high channels on cable. Later if will probably air on E! and then on Showtime on Demand. But, everything is up to the whim's of the schedules. It made the NY Times must watch list for yesterday though. -Cat- ___ h-costume mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] AIR DATES: THE TUDORS: ROYAL STYLEMAKERS
Check out your friends in their Tudor garb tonight. Tune into Style Network. The writer/producer did a wonderful job of getting as many folks as she could in the show. -Cat- -Original Message- Subject: [tvfilmcostuming] ADDITIONAL AIR DATES: THE TUDORS: ROYAL STYLEMAKERS 6 plays of the show so far on STYLE NETWORKS. Depending on ratings there may be more. They are promoting this with on on-air promos and a press The Tudors: Royal Stylemakers Special on Style Network. All times are Eastern Pacific. Thursday, April 12th @ 10:00pm Thursday, April 12th @ 1:00am Friday, April 13th @ 10:00am Friday, April 13th @ 8:00pm Saturday, April 14th @ 8:00am Sunday, April 15th @ 7:00pm ___ h-costume mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: AIR DATES: THE TUDORS: ROYAL STYLEMAKERS
Is it going to air in the UK too Cat? If not, can I get a DVD? Suzi Everyone one's who's picture made it in, that includes you, will get a copy of the DVD once MJ has a chance to mail them. Only problem it will be US format so you'll have to borrow a machine that plays that format. To others who watched... some of the pictures go a bit fast, but almost everyone tapes now a days, so it's a matter of rewinding and enjoying at your own speed. -Cat- ___ h-costume mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] FW: [tvfilmcostuming] FREE TUDORS ONLINE V.I.P. SCREENING
Hey Folks... Mary Jo from Showtime (who's the producer on the Tudor fashion special) wanted me to forward this on. You get an early sneak peak and can make up your own minds about the fashions in the series... -Cat- ps... it's rated TVMA + OK, People -- I pulled some strings and got permission to give you all the secret VIP password so that you can watch the first 2 episodes of The Tudors online immediately. Meaning right this minute, Even before NEXT week's Yahoo streaming of the episodes. And even before VIP's get notified. Plus, the quality of the video should be better than regular streaming. Unfortunately, online viewing is only available in the U.S., The link won't work for anyone outside the country. Please alert your pals on other Costume and re-enactor and historical boards. Showime was only going to give out the link to subscribers who have signed up for VIP e-mails, but I persuaded them that MY peeps deserve a shot, too! go to http://www.sho. http://www.sho.com/vip com/vip Type in the password: king - ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Your work wanted for a Tudor Fashion TV special
The history (all of about 2 weeks) is too complicated for me to go into right now, but it has the potential to be very interesting, even after the current The Tudors buzz dies down. Yea, lots of history, lots of buzz. What is really good about this project is that the project is going to be broken down in pieces and the historical and re-enactment pieces are going to be kept separate... and away from the modern styling. It WILL NOT be geeks on parade. They are very excited and are committed to showing a celebration of Tudor. Getting some images in there where the costuming arts will get good noise and air time, is not only fun, but helps our community in the future. Then again, in the modern section... it's going to be scary. If we can get them within two centuries... sigh But, that segment is going to be fun and colorful too. The net result of all of this is costume good... and wow! Look at that wonderful work. So, dig into your photo collection and send stuff in over to [EMAIL PROTECTED] . Can't guarantee what they'll pick... but the better represented we are, the clearer picture we can paint. And if you want to help define trends for modern fashion, and can handle generalizations (we were talking about a picture of the Ringo Star yesterday and banger bling), please come and play. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tvfilmcostuming/ . Humorous good natured ranting allowed as long as followed by constructive. -Cat- (sorry about slower replies but I've got to stay on digest to handle all the mail I'm pre-processing for Showtime) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
