[h-cost] 15th century surcoats etc
Hi all, I am giving a class soon (in the context of the SCA), entitled 'Cotes and surcotes: Alternatives to Cloaks'. The idea is to give a broad view of outerwear in Western Europe from the 13th to the 16th century, describing various alternatives to cloaks (which can be awkward and a bit useless if you're doing more than just sitting around). However, the 15th century is giving me a bit of trouble. The 13th century is awash in various kinds of surcoats, many of which carry through into the 14th, and the 16th century of course, has doublets and jerkins and cassocks and so on galore. But there seems to be nothing equivalent in the 15th century, especially for women. This seems a little curious, given that this was the start of the Little Ice Age, but then again, if one is wearing a houppelande why would one need anything else? So my question to the list is - am I missing something here? Can anyone point me to some examples of 15th century outerwear? Thanks, Claire ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 15th century surcoats etc
Claire Clarke wrote: This seems a little curious, given that this was the start of the Little Ice Age, but then again, if one is wearing a houppelande why would one need anything else? So my question to the list is - am I missing something here? Can anyone point me to some examples of 15th century outerwear? I believe that the houppelande/gown is exactly what you are looking for: outerwear. Heavier in the winter, lighter in the summer. Under that the kirtle and shift would be the indoor wear when you are warm enough or feeling informal. cv ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 15th century surcoats etc
Cynthia Virtue wrote: Claire Clarke wrote: This seems a little curious, given that this was the start of the Little Ice Age, but then again, if one is wearing a houppelande why would one need anything else? So my question to the list is - am I missing something here? Can anyone point me to some examples of 15th century outerwear? I believe that the houppelande/gown is exactly what you are looking for: outerwear. Heavier in the winter, lighter in the summer. Under that the kirtle and shift would be the indoor wear when you are warm enough or feeling informal. I was about to post just that, and then saw Cynthia got there first! Remember also that the houppelande (or equivalent gown) was frequently fur-lined. By the 1440s or so, the shape of the overdress changed, so the houppelande is gradually replaced by various V-necked overdress versions, again typically fur-linedd. When you see women outside in these, they are often wearing hoods. There are even some nice 15th-century genre scenes of people having snowball fights wearing overgowns and hoods. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 15th century surcoats, etc.
In The Medieval Tailor's Assistant, Sarah Thursfield illustrates 15th century dress with the following image. Scene from mass baptism, 1468, Flemish/Burgundian Chronisques du Hainaut, Bibliotheque Royale, Brussels MS 9243, f.72 It is Thursfield's plate nine on page 103 The image shows men and a woman undressing. The woman is wearing a fur lined houppeland with close cut mitten sleeves. Underneath she is wearing a square neck kirtle with a wide, possibly jeweled, belt. She is also wearing a partlet, or the equivalent, possibly silk. A man in the image is removing a fur lined houppeland with wide, closed sleeves (but not hanging). Underneath he is wearing a puff-sleeved short jerkin and hose with points. He may also have on a belt, but it isn't clear. Under his jerkin, which has an open front secured by some kind of lacing, he has on a white shirt. The four other men in the image are wearing more conservative jerkins, older style cotes or short houppelands. Two are clearly jerkins and the other two are ambiguous. One man is receiving assistance with his joined hose while still wearing a belted short cote or houppeland that is slit at the sides to the hip. (It could also be a pleat.) His legs are bare and he may not have another garment (except for shift and braes) underneath. Hopefully you can locate a copy of the image. The detail and variety of clothing is excellent. Joan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
