[h-cost] pleated trim question.
I am a little unsertain how i should cut the panels for the trims on this dress i am making: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm I want to make small box pleats, but i wondered if the trim should be cut in the height or could i just cut it out in the breath? Sorry if i misspelled the words. Jean Hunniset says that its not nescesary to cut that much fabric for trim. She says 11/2 or 2 times the lengt, but i think i should use at least 3 times the lenght. I have plenty of fabric for the dress, so i dont have to be carefull. I am using a little tiny gold trim in the edge, wich is wired, so its easy to make the pleats. What would your suggestions be? Thanks for any answers. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
At 09:30 10/04/2007, you wrote: I am a little unsertain how i should cut the panels for the trims on this dress i am making: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm I want to make small box pleats, but i wondered if the trim should be cut in the height or could i just cut it out in the breath? Sorry if i misspelled the words. Jean Hunniset says that its not nescesary to cut that much fabric for trim. She says 11/2 or 2 times the lengt, but i think i should use at least 3 times the lenght. If you are making box pleats, Hunnisett says that you should use 3 times the length, I.5 to 2 times is for gathers. It really doesn't matter whether you cut across the fabric width or down the length, unless you have a shot fabric, in which case you need to decide which way according to how the colour changes. (Sometimes you want the contrast.) Many trimmings on original garments are made up from scraps of leftover material, so if it is not a shot fabric you can use it both ways. I have plenty of fabric for the dress, so i dont have to be carefull. I am using a little tiny gold trim in the edge, wich is wired, so its easy to make the pleats. Incidentally I used a wired trim for one dress I made, and hated the way it looked when finished, so took it all off, pulled out the wire and did it all again! (Must have been mad!) Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
Dear Suzi, Again you have ben very helpfull. Many thanks for your answer. My taffeta isnt shot, so i guess it doesnt matter. I did play with the wired goldtrim and made small sampler trims and i liked the way mine is looking, so ill just use it. To tell the truth, the trim is just a christmas pressent ribbon, but it looks very nice, and i baught yards and yards of it. Its because it has the look of antique gold, and not the shiny man made fiber crap you find in trim stores. Oh gosh its going to be so boring to make all that pleated trim, it has trim all over Bjarne - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 10:47 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question. At 09:30 10/04/2007, you wrote: I am a little unsertain how i should cut the panels for the trims on this dress i am making: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm I want to make small box pleats, but i wondered if the trim should be cut in the height or could i just cut it out in the breath? Sorry if i misspelled the words. Jean Hunniset says that its not nescesary to cut that much fabric for trim. She says 11/2 or 2 times the lengt, but i think i should use at least 3 times the lenght. If you are making box pleats, Hunnisett says that you should use 3 times the length, I.5 to 2 times is for gathers. It really doesn't matter whether you cut across the fabric width or down the length, unless you have a shot fabric, in which case you need to decide which way according to how the colour changes. (Sometimes you want the contrast.) Many trimmings on original garments are made up from scraps of leftover material, so if it is not a shot fabric you can use it both ways. I have plenty of fabric for the dress, so i dont have to be carefull. I am using a little tiny gold trim in the edge, wich is wired, so its easy to make the pleats. Incidentally I used a wired trim for one dress I made, and hated the way it looked when finished, so took it all off, pulled out the wire and did it all again! (Must have been mad!) Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
In a message dated 4/10/2007 7:28:45 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: If you are making box pleats, Hunnisett says that you should use 3 times the length, I.5 to 2 times is for gathers. ** Yes, as you already know, I'm sure, 3 times the length for full-return pleats. But some trims are not full-return and have a skimpy...but desirable lighter look. I'd do a little experiment with a length to see what you like. On Last of the Mohicans the cutter of Madeline Stowe's gown told me it's better not to sew the lengths cut for the pleating together but to disguise the separate sections in the pleating as you sew it to the gown...y'know, end one length with the edge folded under at a pleat and the edge of the next length slipped under thatthen start pleating again. ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
In a message dated 4/10/2007 8:28:03 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Oh gosh its going to be so boring to make all that pleated trim, it has trim all over ** Where ARE your assistants when you need them ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
Yes i think its the best to do two. Jean Hunniset says the same. Bjarne - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 7:00 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question. In a message dated 4/10/2007 7:28:45 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: If you are making box pleats, Hunnisett says that you should use 3 times the length, I.5 to 2 times is for gathers. ** Yes, as you already know, I'm sure, 3 times the length for full-return pleats. But some trims are not full-return and have a skimpy...but desirable lighter look. I'd do a little experiment with a length to see what you like. On Last of the Mohicans the cutter of Madeline Stowe's gown told me it's better not to sew the lengths cut for the pleating together but to disguise the separate sections in the pleating as you sew it to the gown...y'know, end one length with the edge folded under at a pleat and the edge of the next length slipped under thatthen start pleating again. ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
To tell the truth, the trim is just a christmas pressent ribbon, but it looks very nice, and i baught yards and yards of it. Its because it has the look of antique gold, and not the shiny man made fiber crap you find in trim stores. Oh gosh its going to be so boring to make all that pleated trim, it has trim all over Bjarne This sounds like a job for power tools! Most of us have seen, used or owned the little 1/4cm pleater (or 1/8th inch) for a standard sewing machine. Those are ok for lightweight ribbons excellent for fine lightweight fabrics. For ribbon, the standard is just too tiny. There must be some sort of pleating machine or sewing machine attachment for pleating in 1cm - 3 cm fan box pleats in grosgrain, satin or velvet face ribbons. They do exist for industrial ribbon manufacturing. How 'bout at the home or small dressmaker's shop scale? Know of one? It would be just the thing. Dreaming of powertools in Silicon Valley, --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
When I make box pleats, where the pleats touch at the sides, I do it three times the length I need. If you make a drawing, you will see that every pleat has 3 layers: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ / \ / \ / \ / \ /_ _ _\ /_ _ _\ (hope this comes through correctly) Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 1:31 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] pleated trim question. I am a little unsertain how i should cut the panels for the trims on this dress i am making: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm I want to make small box pleats, but i wondered if the trim should be cut in the height or could i just cut it out in the breath? Sorry if i misspelled the words. Jean Hunniset says that its not nescesary to cut that much fabric for trim. She says 11/2 or 2 times the lengt, but i think i should use at least 3 times the lenght. I have plenty of fabric for the dress, so i dont have to be carefull. I am using a little tiny gold trim in the edge, wich is wired, so its easy to make the pleats. What would your suggestions be? Thanks for any answers. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
For ribbon, the standard is just too tiny. There must be some sort of pleating machine or sewing machine attachment for pleating in 1cm - 3 cm fan box pleats in grosgrain, satin or velvet face ribbons. They do exist for industrial ribbon manufacturing. How 'bout at the home or small dressmaker's shop scale? Know of one? It would be just the thing. Dreaming of powertools in Silicon Valley, Why, yes! I have one! Let me find a picture. Here! What it looks like and how to use it! http://vintagesewing.info/1920s/26-fcm/fcm-07.html It's seriously cool. Emma http://anvil.unl.edu/emma http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
On Apr 10, 2007, at 6:06 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: For ribbon, the standard is just too tiny. There must be some sort of pleating machine or sewing machine attachment for pleating in 1cm - 3 cm fan box pleats in grosgrain, satin or velvet face ribbons. They do exist for industrial ribbon manufacturing. How 'bout at the home or small dressmaker's shop scale? Know of one? It would be just the thing. Dreaming of powertools in Silicon Valley, Why, yes! I have one! Let me find a picture. Here! What it looks like and how to use it! http://vintagesewing.info/1920s/26-fcm/fcm-07.html I've got a ruffler foot just like that. http://www.bovil.com/index.php? option=com_gallery2Itemid=47g2_itemId=2624 It can do maybe 1cm ruffles. Nothing big. For serious ruffles, you want a Johnson Ruffler. http://www.johnsonrufflingmachines.com/ Neither, though, really creates pleats, and neither is great on heavy- ish material. Every ruffler foot I've seen would choke on grosgrain ribbon, and a Johnson Ruffler would probably need a reinforced ruffler arm. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
Neither, though, really creates pleats, and neither is great on heavy- ish material. Every ruffler foot I've seen would choke on grosgrain ribbon, and a Johnson Ruffler would probably need a reinforced ruffler arm. I used mine to pleat a medium-weight damask for a bed ruffle. Just straight knife pleats, but nice and even, 1/2 deep. I don't think mine would have a problem with grosgrain. But it's an elderly Singer attachment, designed for elderly Singer machines that can sew through darn near anything. Emma http://anvil.unl.edu/emma http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
