Re: [h-cost] Danish Renaissance dress.
I have received some close up photos of the portrait i am going to make the dress from, and i have uploaded to my webpage, mind the big files! http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm Am i right to suggest that this could be a small wheelfarthingale? To me the angle of the bodice - skirt is nearly 90 degrees. Its not possible to see because of both hands covering the area, but i would make a pleated frill on top of the wheel? Am i quite wrong with this, please let me know what you think: Comments most welcome and greatly apreciated. Portrait painted in 1614 and Denmark was a little behind new fashions. Bjarne, Looks like a wheel to me. Wheels came in many sizes. There's a 16th c quote in Norah Waugh citing a woman wearing one 4 feet across. (Raise your hand if you think someone was exaggerating!) FWIW, I've now done 3 drum farthingale gowns. While the edge of the farthingale is hidden by her elbows, I suspect it will be sharper rather than round. The padded roll over the conical farthigale will not give the right-angle effect that I also see in this picture. Part of that effect is created by the pinned ruffled edge and a sufficiently stiff fabric. My personal penchant is for stiff taffeta (sarceonet, in England). I've not looked at many Danish outfits; my knowledge comes exclusively from the English French sources. There are drums where the skirt hangs vertically and drums where the lower edge kicks out as in this one. In my vile experiments, a barrel-shaped hoop creates that slight angled-out, whereas the Esperduccati style appliance, leaves the skirt to hang vertically unlike this picture. Who is the lady in the painting? I covet her jewelry! --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Danish Renaissance dress.
It does look like a small French Farthingale or perhaps just a padded rollthere being a very small [or none at all] bit of bulk at the CF [the strip of trim there seems to have a bit of a highlight at the point of the bodice] It is my understanding that at this point in time you sometimes see a Spanish Farthingale under a fuller pleated skirtsometimes with a pad at the top. The angle at the waist looks too severe to be just the pleats of the skirt holding it out. But the skirt definitely has a hint of that conical shape you get with a Spanish farthingale. **Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod000301) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Danish Renaissance dress.
Because the top of this is rounded, rather than flat, I'd go with a padded roll/cushion kind of thing. The wheel fathingales were also much larger in portion to the waist than this one is, though it's bigger than a typical padded hip/bum roll. Maybe a transtional style? The shape I'd go with would be a c shape for the waist with a larger C for the outer edge with the distance at the sides about 6 inches (15 cm) maybe a little larger in the back. Thickness of the pad would be what sits best on the hips to make the skirts stand out as required. hope this helps alex On 5/15/08, Leif og Bjarne Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all, I have received some close up photos of the portrait i am going to make the dress from, and i have uploaded to my webpage, mind the big files! http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm Am i right to suggest that this could be a small wheelfarthingale? To me the angle of the bodice - skirt is nearly 90 degrees. Its not possible to see because of both hands covering the area, but i would make a pleated frill on top of the wheel? Am i quite wrong with this, please let me know what you think: Comments most welcome and greatly apreciated. Portrait painted in 1614 and Denmark was a little behind new fashions. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood, injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's Friday... ;) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Danish Renaissance dress.
Hi, Thanks Alexandria, In patterns of Fashion vol. 1560- 1620 there actually are small wheel farthingales shown on effigy figures (page 68-69) About the same size these are dated 1610 so it would be very close to 1614 in Denmark. Could off cause also be a roll as you have mentioned, and i am aware that the foot of the skirt, suggests a spanish farthingale. What i wondered was if it would be way two far out to make the dress with this pleated frill in the top at (either the roll or the wheel) It was very fashionable at this time. Thanks for your comments! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Alexandria Doyle [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 4:02 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Danish Renaissance dress. Because the top of this is rounded, rather than flat, I'd go with a padded roll/cushion kind of thing. The wheel fathingales were also much larger in portion to the waist than this one is, though it's bigger than a typical padded hip/bum roll. Maybe a transtional style? The shape I'd go with would be a c shape for the waist with a larger C for the outer edge with the distance at the sides about 6 inches (15 cm) maybe a little larger in the back. Thickness of the pad would be what sits best on the hips to make the skirts stand out as required. hope this helps alex On 5/15/08, Leif og Bjarne Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all, I have received some close up photos of the portrait i am going to make the dress from, and i have uploaded to my webpage, mind the big files! http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm Am i right to suggest that this could be a small wheelfarthingale? To me the angle of the bodice - skirt is nearly 90 degrees. Its not possible to see because of both hands covering the area, but i would make a pleated frill on top of the wheel? Am i quite wrong with this, please let me know what you think: Comments most welcome and greatly apreciated. Portrait painted in 1614 and Denmark was a little behind new fashions. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood, injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's Friday... ;) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Danish Renaissance dress.
Because of its small size you could probably get away with a French farthingale. You might want to read Robin's exhausitive expirmentation on that subject. I personally don't see much roundness but as small as it is, based on Robin's work, I'd say you could achieve it that way. And based on her hand position, I'd say it is flat in front.I think the flounce is totally appropriate. This style lasted, in various forms well in to the 1630's in the Germanic states. Sg I still have part of my experimentation on farthingales for the Elizaben gown I did for the Phoenix Art Museum if you are interested. I'd have to send you the individual links as my website is still under massive reconstruction after loosing all the picture links. From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 16:35:26 +0200 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Danish Renaissance dress. Hi, Thanks Alexandria, In patterns of Fashion vol. 1560- 1620 there actually are small wheel farthingales shown on effigy figures (page 68-69) About the same size these are dated 1610 so it would be very close to 1614 in Denmark. Could off cause also be a roll as you have mentioned, and i am aware that the foot of the skirt, suggests a spanish farthingale. What i wondered was if it would be way two far out to make the dress with this pleated frill in the top at (either the roll or the wheel) It was very fashionable at this time. Thanks for your comments! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Alexandria Doyle [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 4:02 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Danish Renaissance dress.Because the top of this is rounded,! rather than flat, I'd go with a padded roll/cushion kind of thing. The wheel fathingales were also much larger in portion to the waist than this one is, though it's bigger than a typical padded hip/bum roll. Maybe a transtional style? The shape I'd go with would be a c shape for the waist with a larger C for the outer edge with the distance at the sides about 6 inches (15 cm) maybe a little larger in the back. Thickness of the pad would be what sits best on the hips to make the skirts stand out as required. hope this helps alex On 5/15/08, Leif og Bjarne Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all, I have received some close up photos of the portrait i am going to make the dress from, and i have uploaded to my webpage, mind the big files! http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm Am i right to suggest that this could be a small wheelfarthingale? To me the angle of the bodice - skirt is nearly 90 de! grees. Its not possible to see because of both hands cover! ing the area, but i would make a pleated frill on top of the wheel? Am i quite wrong with this, please let me know what you think: Comments most welcome and greatly apreciated. Portrait painted in 1614 and Denmark was a little behind new fashions. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood, injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's Friday... ;) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listin! fo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
