[h-cost] Re: NESAT
The language of the papers vary in each NESAT volume. Most papers are in English or German, though I can think of one in Spanish. Beth At 06:42 AM 7/10/2005, you wrote: Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2005 14:03:08 +1000 From: Tyghra na Tintagel [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks for clearing that up Beth! I was also wondering what Nesat stood for. Can someone please tell me whether they are published in English, German or both? (Hoping for a good semblance of English but have friend who can translate German if pushed and shoved a little). Thanks in advance, Lynette Hobcroft (ska Tyghra) Sydney, Australia ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Eleonora da Toledo
Interesting forensic info. His forensic investigation revealed that Cosimo I's wife Eleonora da Toledo (1522-1562), beautifully portrayed by Agnolo Bronzino in a painting on display at the National Gallery in Prague, was five feet tall (1.58 meter), had a protruding chin, twisted legs, suffered from toothache and had shin splints, caused by an inflammation of the outer layer of the bone that occurs often during the later stages of syphilis. However, the portrait shows a beautiful lady, and comparison with the skull reveals that the painting is rather realistic, except for the chin. The artist portrayed her from above, using a perspective trick. In this way the chin appears more regular, Rollo said. Renaissance Painters Corrected Portrait Features May 10, 2005 http://www.sgallery.net/news/05_2005/10.php BTW The Prague painting is online at http://www.ngprague.cz/show_en.php?picName=a_7.jpg http://www.ngprague.cz/main.php?language=enpageid=a01 and a poster of it is available from them. I have the email if needed. Hope that this is of some interest. Beth Matney ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Eleonora da Toledo -- forensics
Yes, it is interesting the different views published of objective facts. Bizarre? Unfortunately, it seems such a common problem in research. To bring this back to textiles and costume: We were unable to make it to Scandinavia on this trip (just not enough time), so we went to the UK again. Saw a nice sprang sock (Roman period) in York and have a pretty good photo of it, a silk headcovering (Viking) and wool tunic (Coptic) in Cambridge, among other things. Had a very nice time visiting and comparing notes with various living history reenactment groups that we met while there. Beth At 11:23 AM 9/28/2005, you wrote: Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 16:48:08 -0700 From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: re: [h-cost] Eleonora da Toledo -- forensics Beee-zarre. Archaeology magazine july/aug 05 issue has the prelim results from the current dig in Florence. I think you'll find some of the hands-on forensic evidence a given by the Italian archaeologists to be just a little different. I'll cite all of the Eleanora's health tidbits from the article Secrets of the Medici: ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: HELP! I need a substitute to teach at KWCS
I have been requested to cross post this to the list. Hope that someone can help her out. Beth At 03:09 PM 9/29/2005, you wrote: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 20:03:47 - From: Maura Folsom [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: HELP! I need a substitute to teach at KWCS I'm afraid that I'm not going to be able to teach at KWCS. I am scheduled to teach two classes with 12th century focus - making court dress (women and men) and women's court hairdressing, and one with a 14thc focus - making dagges based on the TExtiles and Clothing artifacts. I need to find someone to cover these classes. Is there anyone on this list who is going to be going who might be willing to take over one or both of the classes? I'll be happy to send you the course materials and lecture notes. We've had a family emergency (my uncle is in the hospital, and may be dying). My mother and grandmother are going up to Nova Scotia to see him, which means that I will not have transportation, childcare, or means to come (all money set aside for my trip is being spent for the trip to see my uncle). They expect to be gone for a few weeks. Marguerie de Jauncourt ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Byssus
Marc, A photograph of an exhibit of Byssus (including the mollusk, filaments, and sleeves made from it) is reproduced on page 114 of Les Etoffes: Dictionnaire Historique by Elisabeth Hardouin-Fugier B. Berthod,. 420 pages, 9 1/2 X 12 1/2 ISBN: 2859171754 (my copy is the 1994 edition but is recently reprinted as ISBN: 2859174184, something like 462 illustrations) There is also a short article with four references. All are quite old except for A propos d'une soierie fraçonnée dite bysus, C.I.E.T.A., 1983, n 57/58, pp. 50-56. As C.I.E.T.A. is the international authority on textiles, I would expect that this might be useful. If you wish, I will scan the image and text from Les Etoffes for you. Beth Matney ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Rick Rack
My favorite example of ric-rac is the decoration on Bia's dress (daughter of Cosimo I Medici, Eleanora's step-daughter) in the portrait by Bronzino. http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/b/bronzino/1/bia.jpg Beth Matney At 08:22 AM 10/21/2005, you wrote: Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2005 23:10:55 -0700 From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Rick Rack To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Could someone explain what ric-rac is? It doesn't seem to be what I understand. I have several cards of ric-rac braid I got in a sale, and would use it to sew on to a garment for decoration. It was a very popular trim in the mid 50's if I remember right - that's the 1950's! But ric-rac involving crochet is a total mystery to me. Yet another example of two countries separated by the same language? Go here: http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa082600.htm This article doesn't go back as far as the early 1800s, from where I saw my earliest example of this stuff, but read it and learn what Fran wants to do without crochet. CarolynKayta Barrows ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] knit jacket was Re: Moda a Firenze 1540-1580
You may also like this one (a bit later) at the Victoria and Albert Museum http://images.vam.ac.uk/ixbin/hixclient.exe?_IXSESSION_=submit-button=searchsearch-form=main/index.html Object Jacket Date ca. 1625-1650 Techniques Hand-knitted in silk and silver-gilt wrapped silk, and lined with linen Place London, England (possibly) Italy (possibly) Dimensions Height 61 cm Width 115 cm (with sleeves) Museum Number 807-1904 The book Moda a Firenze 1540-1580 is wonderful. I have really enjoyed my copy. I've been thinking of adding: Bronzino by Maurice Brock 360 pages Flammarion (November 16, 2002) ISBN: 208010877 to my collection of portrait painters. Has anyone seen this book? Beth At 04:49 AM 10/30/2005, you wrote: Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2005 15:52:44 -0500 From: Susan B. Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze 1540-1580 To: Costume List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Im about to send this book back to the UGA library (ya gotta love InterLibrary Loan!). Not only does it have an enormous collection of paintings that I've never seen before, it also has a picture of, well, a sweater. Figure cption reads Women's camicola or knitted jacket. First quarter of seventeenth century. Florence, Museo Stibbert. Camicola knitted in red and gold silk, made my male professionals. This type of garment, already present in Eleanora's wardrobe, is recorded with increasing frequency in the documents of the second half of the century. Susan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re:Bronzino
Thank you for that information. It's what I needed to know. The book price isn't too bad (about $50), but what I'm looking for is a corpus of his portrait works with good color and resolution, so I think that I'll pass this one up. I have most of the paintings, but they're scattered around in many different books. Beth Matney At 01:00 PM 10/30/2005, you wrote: Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2005 09:44:35 -0500 From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [h-cost] knit jacket was Re: Moda a Firenze 1540-1580 I have the Bronzino book, which is an excellent book, if you are specializing in the period it covers. However, it is mostly about painting. If you are interested in that, great. If you are looking for new costume plates, I think that you will be disappointed. Most of the pictures in the book have been reproduced elsewhere and frequently, at that. If you have the portraits already and don't care for the painterly stuff... well, then buying it is up to you. I remember it to be pretty expensive. Regards- Dame Catriona MacDuff ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Bronzino
Thanks. I think I have the Carpaccio. I'll have to pick up a copy of the Bronzino. Do you know of a good Antonis Mor van Dashorst (Sir Anthony More, Antonio Moro) volume? The only thing that I've found seems to be from 1934 published by Nouvelle Societe d'Editions, Bruxelles. Beth Matney At 01:00 PM 10/30/2005, you wrote: My favorite Bronzino book (and they have a Carpaccio one, too) is by The Library of Great Masters series. They are printed by the Riverside Book Company. They are about 8 1/2 by 11 and softcover but have nice, big color reproductions of the paintings. They are about art, but the pictures are very nice quality. For example, you can see that Laura Battiferri's dress is brown and black, not just all black (those who know this painting, will know what I mean!) The Bronzino ISBN is 1-878351-52-4 The Carpaccio ISBN is 0-09-470170-9 And they have other good painters as well Hope that helps! Diana ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Dress in Italian Painting available
The book is truly excellent, but it is small (114 pages and with 115 bw plates). Though it is frequently cited, there is some criticism that it makes excessive use of allegorical paintings. I would gladly buy a reprint at a more reasonable price. It is readily available via ILL. Beth Matney At 10:21 AM 10/31/2005, you wrote: Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2005 08:20:06 -0800 (PST) From: Colleen McDonald [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Dress in Italian Painting available Wanted to let folks know that a copy of this appears to be available on Abebooks for about $137 USD. 1. DRESS IN ITALIAN PAINTING 1460-1500, BIRBARI. E John MURRAY, 1975, Hardback, 0719524237, COSTUME, DRESS, PAINTING, RENAISSANCE, GHOST OF PREVIOUS PENCILLED PRICE ON FRONT END PAPER. D/W HAS LIGHT WEAR ON TOP EDGE Bookseller: Anitabooks, Hereford, HWR Price: ? 75.00 (US$ 136.99) View or Order this Book: http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/ListingDetails?bi=596653322cm_la=want Happy hunting! Colleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] NESAT 6 available
There are a limited number of copies of NESAT 6 available from Lena Falk at the Archaeology Dept of the Goteborgs Univeritet even though it is listed as out of print at the bookshop: http://www.hum.gu.se/ark/. You can contact her at lena.falk AT archaeology.gu.se Hope that this is of interest. Beth Matney ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] early Knitting and crochet
The quote below is the earliest dating that I have heard for knitting and crochet in Northern Europe. Can anyone confirm or deny using other archaeological sources? There is, of course, the possibility of translation error in the article and that they are referring to naalbinding or some other technique. Beth Matney That knitting has an old tradition in the Baltic states is evident from archaeological data of Latvia and Estonia (Peets 1987, 105-16; Zarina, Caune 1980, 60-9). In cultural layers of Riga, dated to the 12th-15th centuries, woollen gloves and mittens were found. Some of them were knitted and others were crochetted with a small bone needle. ( from pg 283, Holiday Clothing of Lithuanian Country Women in the 15th-16th centuries by Saule Urbanaviciene in NESAT 6) This references: Peets J., 1987: 'Totenhandschuhe im Bestattungsbrauchtum de Esten und anderen Ostseefinnen'. Fenoscandia Archaeologica. IV. Helsinki. 105-16 Caune A., Zarina A., 1980: 'Rigas 13.-15. gs. vilnas cimdi'. Latvijas PSR zinatnu akademijas vestis, Nr.1 (39), 60-9. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: early Knitting and crochet
Thank you, Robin! I'll try and find her. She probably has already resolved the question. Beth At 10:17 AM 11/10/2005, you wrote: I would also encourage you to contact Anne Marie Haymes, an American researcher who is a naalbinding specialist and has seen many of these items. (Anne Marie is also active in the SCA under the name of Sigrid something-or-other.) She is a professional translator as well as a textile expert and may be able to help you with the source documents even if she isn't familiar with the specific finds. She is well aware of the frequent miscataloguing of naalbound examples in museums and is always on the lookout for specific examples. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Book
Has anyone seen this book or a review (preferably in English)? Le Vêtement: Histoire, archéologie et symbolique vestimentaires au Moyen Age (Cahiers du Léopard d'or) 332 pages Publisher: Léopard d'or (1989) Language: French ISBN: 2863770896 The title sounds interesting... Beth Matney ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Book
Oh that hurts. I had a bad one on concrete about a month ago. Please let me know which one you have. I've been collecting quite a bit on archaeological textiles and costumes (SCA period), but need more on France. Take care. Beth At 10:32 AM 12/17/2005, you wrote: Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 22:20:25 + From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Beth, I know I have a French costuming book somewhere in my library, let me see if it is the same one or not. If it is, I like the book except for the fact it is in French - there was a chapter in it that I wanted translated, luckily I had an acquaintance who could translate the chapter for me. Must go and let arm and wrist rest, had a nasty fall last weekend. Roscelin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Book
Hi Rose, Thanks for the info. I know how the real world can do! Take care. Beth At 08:53 AM 1/4/2006, you wrote: Date: Tue, 03 Jan 2006 21:22:01 + From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi Beth, Sorry for the delay, mundane life got a hold of me. :-) The book I have is: Le Costume - De L'Antiquite A La Renaissance Francaise by L. Lejeune-Francoise and L. Lamorlette. The book is so old that there is no copyright in it. Happy New Year, Rose ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Book
Thanks for checking.. Beth At 08:53 AM 1/4/2006, you wrote: Date: Wed, 04 Jan 2006 00:26:34 -0600 From: Charlene Charette [EMAIL PROTECTED] I did a quick check of Worldcat. The only book by those authors I found is titled Histoire du costume. The only copy is in Brussels and the entry lists the date as 1950-1957?. --Charlene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Livrustkammaren/Sture Shirts
Thank you for posting this. I've downloaded and expanded the zip and have begun page separation and image restoration. I look forward to your translation. The images are in jpeg format, which is already compressed. There was little size benefit putting it in a zip file, though it does make it easier to deal with than many small files. Adobe pdf files will not be any more efficient, unless you give up some of the resolution (300dpi). That would be a shame. You could save additional space if the text was transcribed... a major job in itself. Beth Matney At 01:00 PM 1/18/2006, you wrote: Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 10:59:18 -0500 (EST) From: Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Livrustkammaren/Sture Shirts For those whom were asking for it, here it is. The Livrustkammaren Journal of the Royal Armoury Stockholm, Vol. IV:8-9 Stureskjortorna by Anna-Maja Nylen. It's a BIG file, I have zipped it, but be prepared. I have scanned everything LARGE so that details are preserved. http://outoftheattic.homeip.net/venetian_costuming.html I'll leave it up for a week or so then take it down. If anyone misses it while catching up to email, email me off list and I'll upload it again. Now that the file has been scanned, I can get on translating. That will take me some time, I'll get back to you on it. :-) Kathy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Soutache Braid
I am trying to help a friend find documentation for Soutache Braid in the 16th century. Does anyone know of an existing example or of good examples in period portraits? Drea, you mentioned using it in your webpage on ruffs: http://costume.dm.net/ruffmake.html Thanks. Beth Matney ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-cost] prices
Bjarne, A superior mass produced leather purse would cost you $100 on up here. Something of made with the quality of materials and your level of craftsmanship should sell for that easily in the right market. If I had the need (and the budget), I would not hesitate to buy for an instant. Now if you were doing Medieval to Renaissance... I think that our tax structure is a bit more complicated than yours... We pay City, County, State and Federal sales (ad valorum) taxes and obligatory fees (some fixed, others variable in amount). These vary widely depending on the type of item and location. The itemized taxes and government fees on my phone bill alone total about 33% added to the service. Then there is personal property taxes and taxes on estimated land value (each for city, county, state and school school). Then there are income taxes which are confusing by themselves... and Social Security taxes. On top of this are hidden (from the consumer) taxes on production that are passed on by the manufacturer or provider of service to the consumer. I don't think anyone in the USA can tell you how much taxes they actually pay! And I live in what is considered a poor, rural State called Arkansas... Beth At 12:01 PM 1/27/2006, you wrote: Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 18:29:34 +0100 From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi Just curious, I know that things are cheap in america, but also wages are cheap Here in Eurpe, we pay 25% for all goods and pay almost 45% from our income. This makes everything expenive Do you consider my bag for 100 dollars cheap or expensive? Globalisations is catching up on us. God or bad? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fabric question SOT
Dupioni tends to be a bit stiffer than noil. Silk noil is traditionally used for the flag of Japan. Beth At 06:15 PM 1/29/2006, you wrote: Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2006 19:02:57 + From: Jean Waddie [EMAIL PROTECTED] If it's going on the battlefield and possibly getting wrapped around armour and other spiky things, noil or dupion is good because it's not a smooth surface to begin with, so it won't look ruined the first time a thread gets pulled. Dupion would be lighter than noil - easier to carry and more chance of fluttering in anything less than a gale. Jean ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Oseberg textiles
I remember hearing a rumor that the volume 4 (textile finds) of Osebergfundet was written but never published.. does anyone know the status of that project? Beth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
I haven't been following this thread, but this sounds very similar to what is known as fish tape used by electricians to fish (pull) a wire through a conduit (tubing). These are rolls of spring wire (flat with rounded edges) that come in a case with reel in 5'0', 100' 200' lengths. Lightweight 50' rolls available quite inexpensively from tool places like Harbor Freight. The heavier professional ones are more expensive. They occasionally break under the load than an electrician puts on them.. you might find a friendly electrician who'll give you one that has (how I got mine). Beth Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 23:00:19 -0800 From: Sharon at Collierfam.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query I'm not sure if it would work, but can you try using the steel in measuring tapes? If it's the right kind, you could maybe get it from the manufacturer. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'd do it the way Suzi suggests too. I've never managed to find the watch spring that the originals were made from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more (though if anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!) Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and encased it in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the verticals, and I hand stitched the hoops in at the intersections, through the casing and the tape. I also made the flounce at the bottom separately and attached it using buttons at regular intervals, so it could be removed for washing (it was for a wedding dress to later be used for re-enactment and so likely to be dragged around a muddy field). Would like to do the 'uber-authenitc' type, but it's one of the many things on my list that I want to make for fun (rather than for customers), that I never seem to find the time for :-( Debs ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: 10th - 11th C. German
The Romanesque period costume is particularly hard to document. In central Europe this is the time of the Ottonians (successors to Charlemagne). There are many textile fragments and a few existing garments from this period. Check Bender-Jorgenson for the textiles, Marc Calson's pages for existing garments, manuscript illumination is pretty good at this time also. North coastal areas would be late Viking (Ribe, etc). Beth At 04:23 PM 2/16/2006, you wrote: Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 20:14:45 + From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] 10th - 11th C. German I hope someone can assist me. One of the members of my household wants to take a look at what a 10th to the 11th C. German man would have worn. I tried to look through the net - but must not of worded my search correctly because I could not find anything. Would the German people at this time be considered the Franks? Any suggestions would be helpful. I'm trying hard to get more of my group to join this list. :-) Roscelin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Byzantine Dress
I have the book. It just came in last week and I haven't had a chance to read it yet. It's a small book without terribly many pictures. Not a dress or costume manual... much more into theory. Beth Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 17:39:18 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Byzantine Dress Has anyone heard about this Byzantine Dress book, or its author, Jennifer Ball? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1403967008/103-0624918-7671817?v=glancen=283155 It seems to have just been published. I sure wish I could afford it, although it's slightly later than my precise period of interest. Tea Rose ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] books
I have been cataloging my reference collection on librarything. You can see the Costume books (103 titles) at: http://www.librarything.com/catalog.php?tag=costumeview=Castlegrounds Textiles (113 titles) at: http://www.librarything.com/catalog.php?tag=textilesview=Castlegrounds Archaeology (108 titles) at: http://www.librarything.com/catalog.php?tag=archaeologyview=Castlegrounds I only have a little over 400 books listed so far... still lots to go. Anyone else doing this? Beth Matney ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] books
Yeh, I promised myself for years too, then a friend told me about librarything. So I'm slowly going through my library and writing the ISBN numbers on a pad for 20 -30 books at a time, shelf by shelf. With all the resources that Librarything can access, it's really not too bad. The books without ISBN do take a little bit longer, but I still rarely have to enter all the info. Beth Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 17:24:29 -0800 From: Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] Not yet. I've been telling myself for years that I need to do something like this. But I'll definitely need a lifetime membership :-D. Thanks for sharing the site. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] French seams was RE: Quality of clothing, Was: patterns
Does anyone know when French seams were introduced? I haven't been able to find an existing example in the SCA period (prior to 1600). Thanks. Beth Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 06:44:09 -0500 From: Five Rivers Chapmanry [EMAIL PROTECTED] snip The fabrics I choose are mostly natural fibre, all French or flat-fell seamed. snip Regards, Lorina Five Rivers Chapmanry ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] books
At Sat, 25 Feb 2006 09:57:19 Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The Librarything system is easy, because you can just click on something to add it. However, I don't want any of my data stored on someone else's machine, and therefore be dependent on their backup system, site availability, continued existence, etc. No, I don't trust other's backup systems either. librarything has a download feature to comma delimited list that I can import into a spreadsheet or MS Access on my computer.. or re-upload if something happens on the host. Plus, I could printout a hardcopy. I'll do that when I get caught up! It will be awhile. I download after every significant update to the catalogue, so I have a backup. Beth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French seams
I am aware of your site (and Marc's) and stitch discussions in various archaeological references... that's the problem. Of the various seam finishes, I just cannot find an existing garment or fragment with the French seam.. so I guess I'm defining it pretty specifically. A modern example is at http://www.sewneau.com/how.to/french.seam.html Beth At 06:06 PM 2/25/2006, you wrote: Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 09:10:47 -0800 From: Heather Rose Jones [EMAIL PROTECTED]d On Feb 25, 2006, at 7:27 AM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote: Does anyone know when French seams were introduced? I haven't been able to find an existing example in the SCA period (prior to 1600). A lot depends on how specifically you're defining French seams. There were a lot of different ways of creating seams with finished edges pre-1600, often depending on the type of fabric involved. For a non-exhaustive survey taken from archaeological textiles, check out the article Archaeological sewing on my website (see sig line). Heather -- Heather Rose Jones ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French seams
Thanks Suzi. I would appreciate it. Beth Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 14:10:34 + From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have a net Spencer from about the same sort of date. Probably English, but I seem to remember that the seams were finished. Some were bound, I'm sure. Would you like me to look it out and check. If they are french seams I could photograph it for you. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: History of Fans
No , but I happened across a lovely folding fan from late Roman in N. England at the Yorkshire Museum in York. I think that I have a picture around here somewhere if anyone is interested. Beth At 10:09 AM 3/4/2006, you wrote: Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 23:39:13 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Does anyone know of any extant 15th or 16th century fans? I am curious as to materials used as well as techniques. If any are in the VA, please let me know as I am planning a visit there. Thank you, Nancy Stengel Ulmer ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: History of Fans
Just got a new catalog of the exhibit Mit grossen Freuden, Triumph and Kostlichkeit in today. Item #31 (pp80-81) is a lovely gold on blue Brise Fan (Italian) from the beginning of the 17th century (Inventory # R6125). The book is: Textile Schätze Aus Renaissance Und Barock Aus Den Sammlungen Des Bayerischen Nationalmuseums by Borkopp-Restle, B. ISBN 3925058486 Beth At 10:09 AM 3/4/2006, you wrote: Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 23:39:13 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Does anyone know of any extant 15th or 16th century fans? I am curious as to materials used as well as techniques. If any are in the VA, please let me know as I am planning a visit there. Thank you, Nancy Stengel Ulmer ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re:16th Century Spanish patterns
I believe that the correct URL is: http://www.vertetsable.com/research_freyle.htm Beth At 03:49 AM 3/10/2006, you wrote: Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2006 20:01:04 -0800 (PST) From: Esperanza de Navarra [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: 16th Century Spanish patterns I found this neat site for those of you with late Spanish personas: http://web.archive.org/web/20030204224256/www.vertetsable.com/freyle.htm I had to get it from the web archive since it looks like it is no longer there. It has copies of manuscript pages from Diego de Freyle (1588) which looks to be a book of patterns for clothing. If you are even a moderate garb maker, you can easily pick out what is what. Esperanza de Navarra ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Anguissola
I also have a copy of Sofonisba Anguissola - First Great women Artist of the Renaissance which is the English translation of: Sofonisba Anguissola - Femme Peintre de La Renaissance by Ilya Sandra Perlingieri Liana Levi Editeur, Paris (1992) pp.223, ills.. Has anyone seen the one by Flavio Caroli. Published in Milan,1987. Hardcover (Italian) Pp. 255. With catalogue of 42 works and reproductions. List of 24 attributed works also reproduced. List of works mentioned in historical sources; or the large monograph: SOFONISBA ANGUISSOLA E LE SUE SORELLE by GREGORI, M. (e altri) Corsico 1994. Bross., cm 28x24, pp 437, numer. ill. a colori e b/n Thanks, Beth Matney ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: European ancestors
My family's been here forever it seems. Most recent is over 200 years. Real American mongrels, but they've always been in the south states (Virginia, N. Carolina to Texas and south) and on the current frontier. We've always joked that if they lived in the southern United States 200 years ago, they're family. Every hair and eye color. Once on a trip in the UK, we stayed in a small hotel in rural central Wales. I met a girl who looked so much like my youngest aunt (at that age) that it was eerie. Same unusual shade of red hair, body type, etc. For me, many years ago my professor of Korean history swore that I looked like some of the people who lived in N. Korea up near the northern border... a bit of the American Indian coming out.. I'm very pale and I don't sunburn or tan easily, though my brother would get so dark that people tried to speak Spanish to him. Beth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Spanish medieval clothes book
I had ordered my copy from Thomas Heneage Art Books in London (40 GBP) as I didn't find it in the States. I'll have to keep a closer eye on that dealer. I also broke down and ordered (from another source): Nouveau Recueil des Comptes de l'Argenterie des Rois de France, publiés pour la Société de l'Histoire de France. . by DOUËT d'ARCQ, Louis, ed Paris: Librairie Renouard, 1874. [8] lxxj [1] 359 [1]p. Heather, which ones did you get? Beth - confirmed book addict At 01:25 AM 3/14/2006, you wrote: Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 21:14:07 -0800 From: Heather Rose Jones [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spanish medieval clothes book You are a very bad, bad person. [4 books and $200 later] A VERY bad bad person. And I mean that in the nicest possible way. :) Heather ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-cost] semi-OT: waiting for books
I ordered Material culture in London in an age of transition: Tudor and Stuart period finds c. 1450 - c. 1700 from Excavations at Riverside sites in Southwark by Geoff Egan on 10/18/05 from DBBC The Tutor Tailor is due out in April. I ordered mine 1/30/06 directly from the author. I have not received either as yet. Beth At 03:06 PM 3/16/2006, you wrote: Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 14:41:28 -0600 From: E House [EMAIL PROTECTED] Has anyone order and actually received either of these two books? Material Culture in London in an Age of Transititon: Tudor and Stuart Period Finds c. 1450-c. 1700 from Excavations at Riverside Sites in Southwark by Geoff Egan ISBN: 190199239X The Tudor Tailor by Ninya Mikhaila et al (pre-ordered from website) ISBN: ? The Geoff Egan book was pre-ordered in early December (back when it was on sale through Amazon for ~$20 instead of $36!); their site says it's been available since Jan 28 and ships in 2-4 weeks; it's been over 6 weeks and nothing. I'm getting impatient for my Christmas present, already! I'm trying to decide if there's any point in contacting Amazon about it--if others have pre-ordered it and not gotten it, I'll try to be patient. I'm definitely jumping the gun on the second; it's not 'late' unlike the first, as their website says it should hit the shops in mid-March, but I want to play with it. =} -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] books
One that I'm REALLY eager to get is the one on the Oseberg textiles. Supposedly it's at the printers and due out sometime in May according to (someone else's reading of) this article: http://www.aftenposten.no/fakta/innsikt/article1248828.ece Unfortunately, I don't read Norwegian and the translation engines are a bit limited., so I'm taking their word for it. Despite extensive searches on the Internet, I cannot find an ISBN or even a title of it though..and I get no replies to emails to the Viking Ship Museum. Beth Matney ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] books
Thanks Fran. I'll give them a try. Beth Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 12:10:00 -0800 Fred Struthers of R. L. Shep gets in a lot of foreign publications and is usually interested in hearing about new ones of interest to costumers. In other words, if he thinks some other customers will want it, in addition to you, he may well stock it. Fred's email address is [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fran Lavolta Press ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] books
Thanks, Bjarne. I would really appreciate any information that you could find on this book! As the book is not out yet, I tried to find a forthcoming publications for Univ. of Oslo, but was not successful. Beth Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 21:29:22 +0100 From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi, I could perhaps try to find the ISBN number for you, i could search for it in an online library. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Oseberg textiles
I received this reply from the author of the newspaper article. The book is real!!! Beth At 10:54 AM 3/20/2006, you wrote: Dear Beth The book will be published in May this year, not by a publishing company but by the museum itself - Kulturhistorisk Museum, Oslo. Title and ISBN not yet known. I suggest you call Arne Emil Christensen at 004722851900 and ask him. Best regards Cato Guhnfeldt AFTENPOSTEN. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Oseberg textiles
OK, here's the details on the book. As they are from Arne Emil Christensen, I tend to trust them. I'm still awaiting details on how to order. Beth Matney 1) Title will be: Osebergfunnet IV - Tekstilene (The Oseberg find - The textiles) 2) Will be published around May 6th 2006. 3) Cost will be 1000 Norw. Kroner (about 140-150 dollars) 4) Book size will be 24 x 36 centimetres standing 5) Number of pages: 408 6) Approx. 1200 copies will be printed. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Oseberg textiles
I hope so also. In the other four volumes of the Osebergfunnet, certain sets had very good English summaries. Beth At Tue, 21 Mar 2006 07:41:02 +, Caroline wrote: That is great news. I hope there will be a reasonable amount of it in English. On 20/03/06, Beth and Bob Matney [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: OK, here's the details on the book. As they are from Arne Emil Christensen, I tend to trust them. I'm still awaiting details on how to order. Beth Matney ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: smell of spiral steel boning
An effective way to eliminate odors in books (tobacco smoke or musty) is to place the book in a sealed plastic bag with (unused) cat litter. Check it periodically and when you no longer detect the offensive odor, remove and let air. The cat litter will absorb the odors and any moisture. Beth At 09:45 AM 3/23/2006, you wrote: Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 11:14:41 + From: Kate Cole [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have a reel of uncut spiral steel boning that I've had for a while, still in the bag the shop put it in. I took it out last night because I want to use it for a wedding dress I'm making for a friend, but it seems to have a really strong, acrid smell to it. I know it will be in a casing and below a couple of layers of fabric, but as it's a wedding dress I don't really want the bride to be able to smell it! Has anyone else had this problem and is there a solution? I don't want to clean it with WD40 or anything, as obviously that could leave marks on the fabric. Would it help if I just aired it? Any ideas gratefully received. Kate ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
My copy arrived here in Arkansas today. Excellent book! Beth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Question Regarding Houndstooth Check
If memory serves, I believe that houndstooth twill is in: North European Textiles Until AD 1000 by Lise Bender Jorgensen. Aarhus Univ Pr (1992), Hardcover ISBN 8772884169 I can check for you tomorrow if needed. Beth At 01:00 PM 4/9/2006, you wrote: Message: 9 Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2006 12:18:33 -0500 From: Karen R Bergquist [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Question Regrading Houndstooth Check To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I was wondering how far back in history one can document the weaving/wearing of houndstooth check? Anybody have any information? Inquiring historical minds want to know! Karen Seamstrix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Update on Henry VIII boo
Thanks Robin. Oh well, the facts of life in the publishing industry. BTW Amazon told me that my copy of your book (2) was shipped Saturday. Beth At 09:02 AM 4/24/2006, you wrote: Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 07:16:05 -0500 (CDT) From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Update on Henry VIII book I've just heard from my contact at the publisher that _Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII_, listed as forthcoming in 2006, will not be out till at least the end of the year or possibly early 2007. (The manuscript is not yet complete.) More whenever I know more. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New MCT Book was Update on Henry VIII book
I am on Digest, so someone else may have already answered your question, but just in case.. There are four books being discussed in this thread. Three are currently available (and I have received my copies): Medieval Clothing and Textiles 2 (Medieval Clothing and Textiles) by Robin Netherton (Editor), Gale R. Owen-Crocker (Editor) Hardcover: 200 pages Publisher: Boydell Press (April 1, 2006) ISBN: 1843832038 The Tudor Tailor by Ninya Mikhaila ISBN 0713489855 http://www.tudortailor.com/ The Inventory of King Henry VIII: Volume I, The Transcript edited by David Starkey, transcribed by Philip Ward and indexed by Alasdair Hawkyard 539p (Harvey Miller/Society of Antiquaries 1998) ISBN 1872501893. Hardback. Publishers price US $144.00, David Brown Books Price US $72.00 and the following has been delayed in publication: Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII by Maria Hayward. Maney Pub. (2006). Clothbound with full colour dustjacket, ca 384 pages with ca 150 bw and 30 colour illustrations. ISBN 1 904350 70 4. http://www.maney.co.uk/search?fwaction=showfwid=649 Since I am interested in earlier times as well. I am also eagerly awaiting: Osebergfunnet IV - Tekstilene (The Oseberg find - The textiles) due out next month Cloth and Clothing in Anglo-Saxon England, AD 450-700 by Penelope Rogers 250p, 100 illus. (Council for British Archaeology 2005) ISBN 1902771540. Paperback. I have had this one on order since April of last year (2005) and the latest info is that it will not be published until the end of this year (2006). Hope that this helps. Beth Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2006 00:54:45 -0500 From: E House [EMAIL PROTECTED] Ahh, duh. Half the posts made it sound like MCT was the same thing as the Henry VIII book, which I take it is not the case? Is the Henry VIII book the one that as yet has no exact release date? -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Migration Era books was Re: New MCT Book
Cathy, I would certainly be interested in your list! Beth At 05:07 AM 4/28/2006, you wrote: I can certainly come up with a list, but I'd probably forget some of the 16th C ones as they are less interesting to me personally. On the other hand, you may not care about some of the Migration Era/Anglo-Saxon/Viking era books I just bought, or am currently lusting after. :-) - Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Oseberg textiles book now available
I received a reply today from Jorun Grønli Kruse (Kulturhistorisk museum, Universitetet i Oslo). Payment must be by electronic funds transfer to their bank's Swift account. Payment must be in Norway Kroners. When their bank approves payment, they will send the book. International EFT's are very expensive from my bank here. Any suggestions as to less expensive alternate's? Beth Date: Mon, 8 May 2006 18:03:59 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] That's wonderful news! Do you know whether it *will* be offered on Oxbow or anywhere like that? That I do not know. The book only arrived in the museum bookstore this week. Keep you fingers crossed that someone like Oxbow will distribute it. I wouldn't, however, hold my breath at this stage. And might there be anybody on this list who would be willing to translate some sections? Ideally consulting with the Museum to gain their permission to release the translations? I am planning on writing to both the authors AND the publisher as soon as I have the book in-hand to ask about the possibility of an English translation. That is almost unbelievable that, after waiting 112 years since the textiles were first discovered, they would so severely limit the number of people who will be able to easily access this information. Nancy Nancy Spies ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Oseberg textiles book now available
Thanks Gunvor, MC, Visa or Paypal would be quite acceptable to me. I also pointed out that the Institutt for Arkeologi, Konservering og Historiske Studier at the Universitetet i Oslo does accept MasterCard for online purchases of their Occasional Papers: https://www.uio.no/pay/shop.ordercreate.action?project=1782 And asked if it would it be possible to arrange to take orders through them. Hopefully something will be worked out. Beth Date: Tue, 09 May 2006 17:06:44 +0200 From: G.Vinje [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Tue, 09 May 2006 08:36:18 -0500, Beth and Bob Matney [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: International EFT's are very expensive from my bank here. Any suggestions as to less expensive alternate's? I can check around a little the next days and see if I find a bookshop that sells the book through the internet. That way you should be able to pay by Visa. Or you might ask them if you can pay through Paypal`? Gunvor ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Oseberg textiles book now available
Date: Tue, 09 May 2006 17:24:28 -0700 From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] I think Fred Struthers/Books on Cloth is looking into it; I asked him to get it for me anyway. His email is [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fran They said credit card orders were not possible, but they will accept checks or cash by mail in NOK, so now I'm looking into ways to create a check in foreign currency. Perhaps Paypal? Anyone done this? I'll check with Fred Struthers. If the markup isn't too bad, I may go with him. Beth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Oseberg book ,possible ordering option
I talked to Fred (seems like a nice guy), but he doesn't know what he will charge yet (with currency exchange and shipping to him) and then I'd have shipping from him as well... and I hate to wait... I need to get his list. He probably has other things that I want. Beth At 07:16 AM 5/11/2006, you wrote: Date: Wed, 10 May 2006 10:44:29 -0700 From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fred Struthers (n California) said he was ordering 10 copies. Email is [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fran Lavolta Press ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Payment options was Re: Oseberg textiles book now available
I'll check into them, but they want the check on a Norway bank. Thanks. Beth At 07:16 AM 5/11/2006, you wrote: Date: Wed, 10 May 2006 16:14:09 -0500 (CDT) From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Wed, 10 May 2006, Beth and Bob Matney wrote: They said credit card orders were not possible, but they will accept checks or cash by mail in NOK, so now I'm looking into ways to create a check in foreign currency. Perhaps Paypal? Anyone done this? I've always used Reusch International Monetary Services in Washington, D.C., which will issue a check in a foreign currency for a very small service charge. I was accustomed to just walking in and doing it at the counter when I lived in the area, but I know I've done it by mail since I moved away. Call them to see how to arrange that. I have them as 202-408-1200 in my rolodex, though it's been quite some years since I needed them so things may have changed. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Payment options was Re: Oseberg textiles book now available
Unfortunately, IMO's are not accepted... Thanks for the idea though. Beth At 07:16 AM 5/11/2006, you wrote: Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 07:33:42 -0300 From: Kelly Grant [EMAIL PROTECTED] Beth, can you do an International money order? Your bank should be able to do this for you for a much smaller fee than paypal would charge you. Kelly ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Latest on Oseberg buying
Thanks, Gunvor. I've talked to Jorun Grønli Kruse [EMAIL PROTECTED] as was told that they do not accept credit cards.. even in person. The museum requires EFT, check on a Norway bank or cash in NOK. Please keep us informed about the uni bookshop as you hear what the price would be. Beth Date: Fri, 12 May 2006 13:26:20 +0200 From: G.Vinje [EMAIL PROTECTED] I've talked with the people at the uni bookshop. Yes, you can order through them and pay with Visa. You have to send the card info by e-mail though (divide the info and send 2 mails). You can not pay through the website for some reason. They are not quite sure about the price since they don't know if the museum will sell the book to them with a discount or not. The larger the discount, the less additional cost you'll have to pay. I've sent them the bookinfo they needed and asked about the price. They hadn't even heard of the book and needed full details to order it. Osebergtekstilene Arne Emil Christensen and Margareta Nockert, ISBN 82-8984-024-9 Kulturhistorisk Museum, Oslo If you want to get in touch with the uni bookshop and the people who will take care of the bookorder; [EMAIL PROTECTED] The woman I talked with suggested I have a word with the museum shop. She could see no reason why they couldn't get the necessary card info by mail and arrange the payment in the shop if the uni bookshop can. I'll be passing by the museum again within the next 2-3 days and will ask if it's possible to arrange things in the suggested manner. It might be a good idea if people who want to get the book gets in touch and asks about doing it that way too. [EMAIL PROTECTED] Gunvor ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Greek clothing
This is a bit early for my interests, but I thought that I'd pass it on: The Brauron Clothing Catalogues: Text, Analysis, Glossary and Translation by Liza Cleland Description: Liza Cleland's study of Greek clothing led her inevitably to the Brauron Catalogues-inscriptions of great significance for any study of this kind. This book is made up of her research into the texts, and is intended as a reference text to give 'a foothold in the impenetrable faces' of the Brauron Catalogue. The study provides invaluable insights into the complexity of ancient clothing and its integral aspect of social, cultural, personal and gender expression. 173p (BAR S1428, 2005). ISBN 1841717193. Paperback. £39.00 Beth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] book of interest on dyes
This book is being offered at a very good pre-order discount by Amazon.. $81.90 (list price $130). The book is due out next month (July 30): 500 pages, 560 Illustrations. I pre-ordered a copy. Beth The following is the publisher's information: http://www.archetype.co.uk/ Natural Dyes by Dominique Cardon This authoritive resource is an expanded, corrected and updates translation of the award winning book Le Monde des Teintures Naturelles (published 2003, Belin,Paris). It is aimed at dyers, designers, artists, weavers, spinners, curators, conservators and restorers, museums, research institutions all those who have a professional or personal interest in or passion for colour. Drawing on many years of field and laboratory research, the author presents more than 300 plant and 30 animal dyes in a scientific and technical context within a handsome illustrated volume. Until the 19th century, natural dyes were the only sources for colouring textiles, leather, bone and ivory, wood, food, cosmetics etc. and were also part of many pigments of the artist's palette. Unlike modern synthetic dyes which, for financial and technical reasons have all but replaced them, natural dyes are not just the result of one particular colourant. They are a synergy of many substances with diverse chemical structures. While many may be colourless in the plant or animal, they are changed by the extraction and production processes into a myriad of colours of unsurpassable richness and subtlety. This title is due for publication autumn 2006 CONTENTS Part One - the Art of Dyeing 1. Dyeing methods through the Ages 2. Mordants : Discovery and methods Part Two - Dye Plants 3. Reds, violets, oranges 4. Anthraquinone red 5. A yellow world : plants containing flavanoids 6. The flavanoids which do not dye yellow 7. The yellows which are not flavanoids 8. From Cockagne to the cowboys : indigo plants 9. Beiges, greys, blacks, browns : tannin plants 10. Lichens and mushrooms for dyeing Part Three - Purple from shells and Red from insects 11. Purple : indigo molluscs 12. Red 'worms' and anthraquinones Appendix Colourants and their chemical structures ISBN: 190498200x £75.00 / $130.00 Hardback. 560 Illustrations ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] book of interest on dyes
Sure. Forward as much as you wish. Most of the email was the publisher's info. wicked evil grin Books are my major weakness (though you should see the size of my fabric stash). I'm perfectly willing to help spread the disease... Beth At 01:01 PM 6/13/2006, you wrote: Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2006 07:22:53 -0700 From: Cynthia J Ley [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi Beth. May I forward this to other lists? Arlys ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Oseberg Textiles
My copy of the Oseberg Textiles book arrived today. I have just finished my first pass through, looking at the illustrations and reading the English summary in the back. I am extremely happy with it. It contains much that I have not seen before (even though I also have the Sofie Kraft book of her watercolors). There is only a small amount on costume in it... most textiles being identified as decorative and furnishings. In addition to the tapestry woven textiles are extensive sections on the tablet woven bands, embroidery (identified as Anglo-Saxon) and silks.The book itself is large folio in a binding matching that of the other volumes of the Oseberfundet published many years ago. For a book of this size and value (and a limited print run of only 1200 copies), I consider it a worthwhile purchase. I expect that it will be awhile before it is available via inter-library loan. The book may be ordered directly from the Kulturhistorisk Museum in Oslo, price: NOK 1100 (including shipping) but must be paid in Norwegian Kroners. In USA: Contact Fred Struthers fsbks AT mcn.org if interested, as he is considering carrying it. Osebergfunnet IV - Tekstilene (The Oseberg find - The textiles) by Arne Emil Christensen and Margareta Nockert, Kulturhistorisk Museum (May 6th 2006), Universitetet i Oslo. 24 x 36 cm. 408pp. ISBN 82-8984-024-9. Regards, Beth Matney ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] exhibit of interest
Dear Julian, Unfortunately, we are not going to the UK this year, but this exhibit in Manchester looks quite interesting: Clothing Culture: Dress in Egypt in the First Millennium AD http://www.whitworth.man.ac.uk/collections/search/display-exh/index.htm?irn=858QueryPage=%2Fcollections%2Fsearch%2Fexhibitions%2Findex.htm I'll have to tack down a copy of the catalogue! Beth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: exhibit of interest
Thanks for the additional details, Robin. I have an email to the Whitworth already on the way... Beth Clothing Culture: Dress in Egypt in the First Millennium AD I'll have to track down a copy of the catalogue! Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 09:00:45 -0500 (CDT) From: Robin Netherton I have a flyer for it right here. The title is the same as the exhibit; author is Frances Pritchard, the Curator for Textiles there. 160 pages, 195 illustrations. ISBN 0-903261-57-X. Price is 25 English pounds (sorry, can't get the pound sign quickly in this program). Shipping in the UK is 5.50 pounds, rest of Europe 7 pounds, rest of world 14 pounds airmail or 7 pounds surface mail. To order, contact: The Whitworth Art Gallery University of Manchester Oxford Road Manchester, M15 6ER ENGLAND e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] little note....
Hi Bjarne! Nice to see back on the list. Hot here also.. that's why we leave for Copenhagen on 25 August! ;) When and where is the exhibit? Our primary interests are a bit earlier, but it sounds interesting. We'll only be in Denmark for a week before we have to leave for Sweden and then Norway. Beth Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2006 21:16:46 +0200 From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] I hope that its ben very booring while i have ben away, god knows its ben very boring here, and damned two hot, Europe has had one of the badest summers heatwise, we still have, and i pray it soon gets away. I must tell you costume wise, that a very important exhibition is taking place in Copenhagen by all places in September, showing court fashions of men from 17th century to 18th century. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] little note....
Thank you Bjarne. I will certainly try to get to it. Beth Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 20:13:04 +0200 From: Bjarne og Leif Drews Hi, I read in an antique magazine about the exhibition. It says the exhibition is on now and last the rest of this year. Its at Rosenborg Pallace in the heart of Copenhagen, so it should not be difficult for you to find it. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Thread in extant medieval garments
Eva, When and where will your work on this be published? Will it be available in English? Beth Matney At 08:46 AM 8/17/2006, you wrote: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 07:13:12 +0200 From: Eva Andersson [EMAIL PROTECTED] The thread in the Bocksten Bog man's costume did NOT survive. It was therefore most likely either linen or hemp, both grown in Scandinavia at the time. All the thread was gone when they found it in 1936. This can be seen from the report/book from this time Bockstensmannen och hans dräkt edited by Margareta Nockert. It is now 70 years since the Bocksten man was found and for the last two years a research project has been running. I was the person doing the dress historical research and has thus had the opportunity to handle the garment as well as seeing all the original documentation photos. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Bocksten bog man research
I look forward to seeing the Bocksten book. Please keep us informed as the project progresses and now I have to find a copy of your dissertation! Beth Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 17:30:09 +0200 From: Eva Andersson [EMAIL PROTECTED] I recently got the question when my research on the Bocksten bog man's costume was going to be published. I'm sorry it took me a couple of days to answer, but my PhD-dissertation just arrived from the printer and I've been busy sending it to libraries, other universities etc the last two days. (An abstract for the dissertation can be found here:http://web.comhem.se/~u41200125/abstract.htm. What I did concerning the Bocksten bog man was an unpublished report for the museum, which they used when they built the new exhibition. There will probably be a new book some time next year (and I'm doing my best to convince them to make an english version too), but nothing is decided yet (funding is of course an issue) Ev ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Dress in Egypt in the First Millennium AD
Angela, When I contacted them last month, they replied that one could not order online, but that you could call their gift shop and order via phone with a credit card. See the message below.. I have not done so as yet. Beth Thank you for your enquiry regarding the Clothing Culture catalogue. The catalogue is priced £25, and postage to the USA is £14 via airmail, making a total of £39. If you would like to purchase a copy please call the gallery shop with credit card details on +44 (0) 161 275 7498. Alternatively, please send a cheque for the correct amount made payable to 'University of Manchester' to: The Whitworth Art Gallery Shop University of Manchester Oxford Road Manchester UK M15 6ER At 01:14 PM 8/22/2006, you wrote: Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 11:55:37 -0700 From: H_Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress in Egypt in the First Millennium AD How does one purchase a copy? Is it available overseas (I'm in the US)? angela + Angela F. Lazear ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Is this wool flannel appropriate for any costuming uses?
I've been meaning to this for awhile. I would certainly be interested in seeing your counts. I was at Birka (Sweden) a week ago and they had a dark blue worsted twill fabric sample (and a handwoven bolt reproduced.. that could be handled) that was fine. They said that it was quite common in the finds. Have you looked at Lise Bender Jorgensen's North European Textiles Until AD 1000 ? Beth Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 09:36:15 -0500 From: E House [EMAIL PROTECTED] For what it's worth, I recently did a thread count comparison between the counts given in Medieval Textiles and Woven into the Earth, and some common types of modern wool (including gabardine). To my surprise, even the normal-to-coarse modern wools that should have been comparable based on text descriptions were FAR finer (like 2-3 times the thread count) than even the extant textiles that were described as being extremely fine. If anyone is interested in more detail, I'll look around for the notebook that has my preliminary notes and post 'em here. Long story short, though, go for the coarser woolens if you want a really authentic-looking fabric, at least for pre ~1475, and for early period vikingish stuff, try to find a coarse worsted. (Woolens didn't get hip until what, around 12thC-13thC? sorry, posting without my references.) -E House (Loves the fine worsteds far too much to give them up. Besides, I haven't gotten thread counts for the early 16thC yet. Maybe things were different then! Anyone have any references?) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Edward I's wardrobe account
Robin, I have these on order. I'll call DBBC and see what's holding them up. The price was good so I ordered them in hopes Beth Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 19:26:55 -0500 (CDT) From: Robin Netherton Does anyone have either of these books? Can you tell me if they contain much useful information about textiles and clothing? Records of the Wardrobe and Household 1285-1286 edited by B. F. Byerly and C. F. Byerly Transcript of the book of the Controller of the Wardrobe and related household rolls showing Edward I's itinerary and expenditure for the year. 309p. (HMSO 1977) Records of the Wardrobe and Household 1286-1289 edited by B. F. Byerly and C. R. Byerly Full transcript of the extant records for a period when the king and his household resided almost wholly in Gascony. 678p. (HMSO 1986) --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] book: Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII
I just got a note from the publisher that this is scheduled to be published May 2007. Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII by Maria Hayward. Maney Pub. (2006). Clothbound with full colour dustjacket, ca 384 pages with ca 150 bw and 30 colour illustrations. ISBN 1 904350 70 4. http://www.maney.co.uk/search?fwaction=showfwid=649 Henry VIII used his wardrobe, and that of his family and household, as a way of expressing his wealth and magnificence. This book will encompass the first detailed study of male and female dress worn at the court of Henry VIII (1509-47) and will cover the dress of the king and his immediate family, the royal household and the broader court circle consisting of the nobility and clergy. Evidence will be drawn primarily from the Great Wardrobe accounts, wardrobe warrants, and inventories, and it will be interpreted using evidence from narrative sources, paintings, drawings and surviving garments. Key areas for consideration will include the cut and construction of garments, materials and colours, the function of livery and the hierarchy of dress amongst the social elite, and the network of craftsmen and merchants working for the court. Maria Hayward (FSA, Reader in Textile Conservation, University of Southampton, UK) is also Assistant Editor of Costume - Journal of The Costume Society ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] book: Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII
No Idea as yet. I'll post to the list when I find out more. Beth Matney At 01:00 PM 10/2/2006, you wrote: Any idea how much the book will cost? I'd like to put my name on the reserve list, but I don't want to feel obligated to buy a $200 book! -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Osebergfunnet IV - Tekstilene
I have purchased books from both Fred Struthers and www.nordicartbooks.com . The last time I talked to Fred, he was hesitant to carry the book because of the expense and limited market. I could not find the book on Lena's website, so you will probably need to email her, if you are interested. I got the book by mail-order shortly after it was published, but it was difficult. I ended up sending the money to a friend in Norway who got it converted to Kroners and paid cash at the gift-shop for me. (I am VERY appreciate) At the end of the summer, we took our trip and I saw it for sale at both the Historical Museum and the Ship Museum. They would then take VISA or MC, but only in person (no mailorders). This we have found is fairly typical of Museums over there. (As me about the problems I had with an order from Germany sometime). If I remember right, the only other alternative that I could find was a wire-transfer from a bank. This adds significantly to the cost. I can send you more info (off list) if you want to do this. FYI. I am taking the book with me to an SCA event in Hattiesburg, MS this weekend, if anyone is in the neighborhood. Beth At 12:52 PM 11/10/2006, you wrote: Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2006 00:36:21 -0500 From: Catherine Olanich Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Osebergfunnet IV - Tekstilene (The Oseberg find ?- The textiles) In case any of you are interested in purchasing the new book analyzing the Oseberg textiles, I just received the following e-mail. I haven't decided how I'm going to respond yet. Dear Cathy, It is our understanding that you are interested in the following book Osebergfunnet IV - Tekstilene (The Oseberg find  - The textiles) by Arne Emil Christensen and Margareta Nockert, Kulturhistorisk Museum (May 6th 2006), Universitetet i Oslo. 24 x 36 cm. 408pp. ISBN 82-8984-024-9. Fred Struthers sent your information along as he would like us to process this order for you. The cost would be $250.00. Please confirm that you are indeed interested in this publication. Also please take a look at our website and let us know if you are interested in other books www.nordicartbooks.com Best Wishes for a Happy Holiday Season, Lena Torslow Hansen, Owner - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ART CONSULTING: SCANDINAVIA Books on Art Architecture 3650 Cross Creek Road Malibu, CA 90265-4946 TEL (310) 456-8762 FAX (310) 456-5714 www.nordicartbooks.com -- Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] conference
The following conference is going on this week. I do hope that the proceedings will be published! Beth Matney Fashion and Clothing in Late Medieval Europe 16th 18th November 2006, in Riggisberg (Switzerland) Conference organized in cooperation with the Department of Medieval History at the Historical Institute of the University of Berne Program: http://www.mittelalter.hist.unibe.ch The conference is open to all scholars, the number of participants is restricted. --- Sektion I Einzelne Gewandelemente / Part I Individual Pieces of Clothing: - JUNE SWANN (NORTHAMPTON) European Shoes 1200-1520 RAINER C. SCHWINGES (BERN) Between Gown and Fashion: a Student's Clothes in the Late 15th Century JUTTA ZANDER-SEIDEL (NÜRNBERG) Haubendämmerung. Frauenkopfbedeckungen zwischen Spätmittelalter und Früher Neuzeit KATHARINA SIMON-MUSCHEID (BERN) Les couvre-chefs au bas moyen-âge: marqueurs culturels et signes politiques NAOMI TARRANT (EDINBURGH) Cut your coat to suit your cloth How a Textile Affects the Cut of a Garment KNUT SCHULZ (BERLIN) Produktion und Vertrieb von Textilien. Voraussetzungen, Impulse und Innovationen -- Sektion II Soziale Schichtung und ständische Differenzierung / Part II Clothing and Fashion from Different Social Levels --- AMALIA DESCALZO LORENZO (MADRID) Les vêtements royaux du monastère Santa Maria la Real de Huelgas MARGARETA NOCKERT (UPPSALA) Clothing Found in Scandinavia and Greenland JUTTA CHARLOTTE VON BLOH (DRESDEN) Princely Canons of Clothing and Dynastic Historiography the Garments of Elector Moritz of Saxony (1521-1553) STEPHAN SELZER (HALLE A.D. SAALE) Adel auf dem Laufsteg. Das Hofgewand an reichsfürstlichen Höfen um 1500 FRANCES PRITCHARD (MANCHESTER) Clothing Worn in 14th Century London Based on Archaeological Evidence NEITHARD BULST (BIELEFELD) Signe de distinction. Le vêtement bourgeois en Allemagne et en France dans la législation somptuaire. Sektion III Symbolische Aspekte von Kleidung und Mode / Part III Symbolic Aspects of Clothing and Fashion EVA SCHLOTHEUBER (MÜNCHEN) Best Clothes and Every-day Attire of Late Medieval Nuns MARIA HAYWARD (WINCHESTER) The Influence of the Liturgical Year on the Wardrobe of Henry VIII JOHANNES PIETSCH (RIGGISBERG) Showing the Body Shaping the Body. The Interaction of Clothing and the Human Figure KLAUS OSCHEMA (BERN) Amis, favoris, sosies. Le vêtement comme miroir des relations personnelles ROBERTA ORSI-LANDINI (FIRENZE) The Influence of the Medici on International Developments of Fashion GIL BARTHOLEYNS (BRUXELLES) La mode et les Réformes. Discussion sur les causes de la transformation du vêtement en Europe (XIIIeXVIe siècle) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Naalbinding site of interest
I thought that this catalogue of needlebound artefacts would be of interest: http://www.dueppel.de/nadelbind/nadelbkat.htm Their bibliography is at http://www.dueppel.de/nadelbind/bibliographie.htm Beth Matney ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] currently on display
Garments of Margaretha Franciska Lobkowicz née Dietrichstein (15971617) April 13thDecember 31st, 2006 Main building of UPM - Museum of Decorative Arts in Prague http://www.upm.cz/index.php?language=enpage=123year=2006id=56img=512 I have written to inquire about a catalog to the exhibit. Beth Matney ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] conferences
Bjarne, My interests pretty much begin with late Roman and stop with 1600 or slightly later, so that's what I look for. I see a lot of things for later (18th century is your time?) . I'll try to remember to pass them on also. I think that I just assumed that you were already more aware of them than I. Beth At 01:07 PM 11/22/2006, you wrote: Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2006 20:32:53 +0100 From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi, Thanks for this, i had no idea there were such possibilities to go to seminars about textiles in Copenhagen. Ill keep myself updated when something of my interrests comes. A shame i dont have interrests in medieval textiles or older. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] shuttle
Does someone have access to: Late Viking Age and Medieval Waterford: Excavations 1986-1992 (Hardcover) by Maurice F. Hurley, Orla M.B. Scully, Sarah W.J. McCutcheon, S. Durack (Illustrator), G. O'Neill (Illustrator) Institute of Public Administration (Oct 1997) ISBN: 1872002986 It is out of print and unavailable for Interlibrary loan. I understand that a boat shuttle (weaving) was found. Could someone scan or photocopy the image and text about the shuttle for me, please? Thanks. Beth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] shuttle
I would much prefer to add the book to my collection of archeology reports. I ordered the book from Amazon-UK last year... and after many delays, they finally cancelled my order saying that the book was unavailable. Up until last month, there was a copy at a bookseller in Ireland.. I just could not make myself pay $600 for it! I'd quite willingly pay $134 for the book. I'm not an ILL librarian (live in rural Arkansas), but the librarian in my county is good about ordering things for me. She said that all copies listed did not circulate, so she couldn't get it... even paying an additional fee (which I frequently do). Beth At 01:04 PM 11/23/2006, you wrote: Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2006 14:01:24 -0800 From: Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED] Does someone have access to: Late Viking Age and Medieval Waterford: Excavations 1986-1992 (Hardcover) by Maurice F. Hurley, Orla M.B. Scully, Sarah W.J. McCutcheon, S. Durack (Illustrator), G. O'Neill (Illustrator) Institute of Public Administration (Oct 1997) ISBN: 1872002986 It is out of print and unavailable for Interlibrary loan. I understand that a boat shuttle (weaving) was found. Could someone scan or photocopy the image and text about the shuttle for me, please? Thanks. Beth Sorry, I don't have the book, but my library is pretty good about getting some fantastic stuff through ILL that other libraries can't/won't. If you would like me to try let me know (unless you are a ILL librarian yourself, which is certainly possible on this list!) This book is about to be printed (re-printed?) for Amazon.co.uk for a mere $134 (unless the Euro/Pound/Dollar do more nasty things : Late Viking Age and Medieval Waterford: Excavations 1986-1992 (Hardcover) by Maurice F. Hurley, Orla M.B. Scully, Sarah W.J. McCutcheon, S. Durack (Illustrator), G. O'Neill (Illustrator) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] shuttle
Yes, I'm trying to pin down the horizontal loom with more than just the manuscript illumination that is commonly shown, using the boat shuttle as an indicator. So far I've found one (modern pattern) in Novgorod archeology in the 14th C. and one was found in France at Lake Paladru http://www.culture.gouv.fr/culture/arcnat/charavines/en/fouille.htm I finally got the report in from France and discovered that while this may be a boat shuttle (1008-1040 AD) , it is not in the modern pattern and a bit small. I was informed that one was in the Waterford report dating to the 12th/13th C. and want to see it and confirm. England is an interesting place for weaving, with the twin beam loom (Winchester) concurrent with the warp weighted loom. Beth Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2006 13:50:13 -0500 From: Lauren Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED] format=flowed So I was poking around the Web looking for the book, and discovered the Ask About Ireland Virtual Museum, which has a few pieces from the Waterford Museum of Treasures: http://www.askaboutireland.ie/show_narrative_page.do?page_id=2802 Amongst the treasures is a 12th century comb beater, and the page refers to a sword beater and pin beaters also found at the site. http://www.askaboutireland.ie/show_narrative_page.do?page_id=2910 Those are tools for warp-weighted loom weaving, and you don't use a boat shuttle with a warp-weighted loom. (I don't know your project -- that may be exactly why you want to see the boat shuttle.) Since the warp-weighted loom continued to be used in Scandinavian countries up until the present day, that doesn't mean WWLs didn't exist alongside horizontal harness looms, of course, and the transitional period for those looms in England (I am guessing Ireland is similar in this adoption) is between the 10th and 13th centuries. Let me know if you find the boat shuttle, and when it's dated. Thanks, Lauren ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII
For those awaiting (such as I am) Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII, the publisher has informed me that the release date has been delayed to May 2007. Beth Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII by Maria Hayward. Maney Pub. (). Clothbound with full colour dustjacket, ca 384 pages with ca 150 bw and 30 colour illustrations. ISBN 1904350704. http://www.maney.co.uk/search?fwaction=showfwid=649 Henry VIII used his wardrobe, and that of his family and household, as a way of expressing his wealth and magnificence. This book will encompass the first detailed study of male and female dress worn at the court of Henry VIII (1509-47) and will cover the dress of the king and his immediate family, the royal household and the broader court circle consisting of the nobility and clergy. Evidence will be drawn primarily from the Great Wardrobe accounts, wardrobe warrants, and inventories, and it will be interpreted using evidence from narrative sources, paintings, drawings and surviving garments. Key areas for consideration will include the cut and construction of garments, materials and colours, the function of livery and the hierarchy of dress amongst the social elite, and the network of craftsmen and merchants working for the court. Maria Hayward (FSA, Reader in Textile Conservation, University of Southampton, UK) is also Assistant Editor of Costume - Journal of The Costume Society ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: striped skirt
There are existing striped Spanish (royal) garments from Museo de Telas Medievales. These are a bit earlier that those Italian being discussed (some back to the 13C). See: Vestiduras ricas : el Monasterio de las Huelgas y su época, 1170-1340 : del 16 de marzo al 19 de junio de 2005 Madrid: Patrimonio Nacional, [2005]. 293 p.: 66 colour plates and 71 colour il.; 29x24 cm. paperback ISBN 8471203839 Silk Textiles of Spain: Eighth to Fifteenth Century by Florence May. HISPANIC SOCIETY OF AMERICA (1957) Hardcover. 286 pages, 161 illustrations in black and white and 6 in full color. ISBN: 1399934503 Museo de Telas Medievales by C. HerreroCarretero. Monasterio de Santa Maria la Real de Huelgas, Madrid, 1988. ISBN 8471201275 I have not checked my copy of Hispanic costume, 1480-1530 by Ruth Matilda Anderson. New York: Hispanic Society of America, 1979. x, 293 p. : ill. ; 29 cm. hardcover ISBN 0875351263 to see if they were in later use. Beth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII
They have told me that the price has not been set yet. Hopefully, they will realize that there is quite a market if the price is reasonable. Beth At 07:36 AM 12/6/2006, you wrote: Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2006 22:29:10 -0500 From: Susan B. Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Quoting Beth and Bob Matney [EMAIL PROTECTED]: For those awaiting (such as I am) Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII, the publisher has informed me that the release date has been delayed to May 2007. Do you have any idea about how much it's going to cost? susan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII
Cindy, I included the link in my original post. Sometimes things don't go through, so here it is again: http://www.maney.co.uk/search?fwaction=showfwid=649 Beth At 11:33 AM 12/6/2006, you wrote: Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 09:08:54 -0600 From: Abel, Cynthia [EMAIL PROTECTED] Who is the publisher? If they have a website, we can check for publication date and price as the publication date nears. This would be a dream book for me if the price isn't too high. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Journals
Living in a rural area, one of things that I do not have access to are back issues of certain journals. If any of you have back issues of the following that they would like to sell, please contact me. 1) Costume: Journal of the Costume Society 2) Textile History 3) Archaeological Textiles Newsletter It would be much appreciated. Beth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Anglo-Saxon clothing book
I've had this on pre-order since April of 2005. Yes, 20 months! It has been delayed so many times that I was waiting until I had my copy before posting any more about it. David Brown Books (Oxbow) is discounting it for pre-orders. Beth At 01:00 PM 12/7/2006, you wrote: Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 01:32:48 -0600 From: E House [EMAIL PROTECTED] Not my era, but Amazon just sent me this and it sounded like it might pique someone's interest: --- We've noticed that customers who have expressed interest in Knives and Scabbards (Medieval Finds from Excavations in London) by J. Cowgill have also ordered Cloth And Clothing in Early Anglo-Saxon England, AD 450-700 (CBA Research Reports) by Penelope Rogers. For this reason, you might like to know that Penelope Rogers's Cloth And Clothing in Early Anglo-Saxon England, AD 450-700 (CBA Research Reports) will be released on December 20, 2006. Cloth And Clothing in Early Anglo-Saxon England, AD 450-700 (CBA Research Reports) (Paperback) by Penelope Rogers Paperback: 250 pages Publisher: Council for British Archaeology (December 20, 2006) Language: English ISBN: 1902771540 -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] wool/worsted was Re: striped skirt
Not quite. It has to do with the fiber length and the way the fiber is prepared for spinning. Worsted was combed long staple and woolen was carded short staple that is spun to make thread. Because combing lays fibers along the length of the thread, it makes a stronger thread, but woolen can be fulled and a nap raised and sheared. The progression in history was combed (worsted...wasn't called that until much later), half worsted (combed warp, carded weft), then woolen. Like most generalities, this is over-simplified (Romans also had napped and sheared wool textiles). Early wheel spun thread was deemed too weak to take the stresses as warp, causing an inferior cloth. There were quite sensible reasons for the guild regulations: it has to do with reputation, market and getting premium prices. Since textile towns (and their guilds) lived or died.. quite literally.. based on the sales of their products, they were not inclined to take too many unnecessary risks. Beth At 11:17 AM 12/11/2006, you wrote: Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 12:09:30 -0500 From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] Worsted vs woolen-- pretty funny, since both are wool. Worsted is just a fine spun wool. Monica ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] textiles was Re: striped skirt
Many cities, not just the Italian ones used color coded selvages.. and there were cases of other cities counterfeiting them. I believe I read about these in various economic history books studying the wool trade, probably Carus-Wilson or Bridbury. Lead cloth seals were also used to mark the origin of the textiles. Lead cloth seals were used up to modern times. I got a bolt of cotton the other year with one on it! I know of no cases of mixing fibers in the thread in Medieval (or earlier) Europe (with the possible exception of dog/wool blends in the Greenland finds). Many cases of mixing threads in a cloth however (some quite famous): silk warp/cotton weft (mulham), linen warp/cotton weft (fustian), linen/woolen (linsey-woolsey) and silk/woolen come to mind. Beth At 12:38 PM 12/11/2006, you wrote: Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 18:25:12 + From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt Yes, there were laws, but IIRC, the purpose was to keep unscrupulous weavers and merchants from selling cloth at a higher cost just because they could say it was woven with blank. They'd just leave out the 'percentage' that blank. Just like the other guilds, they kept a close watch on their members, for fraud. I think that there might some examples of guild members being publicly punished, such as bakers, and other such folks. Queen Elizabeth, at the urging of different guilds, to do some proclamations, but nothing specific comes to mind. Drat! I seem to remember reading somewhere that one of the Italian city-state guilds had even instigated the use of color coding the selvedges, to keep track. I'm away from my books, so don't can't verify right now. And my memory may be playing me false! Anyone who can help with those vague memories or let me know that my memory might be out of kilter, please post! Well, back to work... Elena/Gia ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] New book 14th C Italy
After all the talk about books that are delayed in publication, I thought that I'd mention one that I've just got in today. Has anyone else seen it? Beth Gilding the Market: Luxury and Fashion in Fourteenth-Century Italy by Susan Mosher Stuard 336 pages | 6 1/8 x 9 1/4 | 14 color, 10 b/w illus. Cloth Dec 2005 | ISBN 0812239008 http://www.upenn.edu/pennpress/book/14208.html In the fourteenth century, garish ornaments, bright colors, gilt, and military effects helped usher in the age of fashion in Italy. Over a short span of years important matters began to turn on the cut of a sleeve. Fashion influenced consumption and provided a stimulus that drove demand for goods and turned wealthy townspeople into enthusiastic consumers. Making wise decisions about the alarmingly expensive goods that composed a fashionable wardrobe became a matter of pressing concern, especially when the market caught on and became awash in cheaper editions of luxury wares. Focusing on the luxury trade in fashionable wear and accessories in Venice, Florence, and other towns in Italy, Gilding the Market investigates a major shift in patterns of consumption at the height of medieval prosperity, which, more remarkably, continued through the subsequent era of plague, return of plague, and increased warfare. A fine sensitivity to the demands of le pompe, that is, the public display of private wealth, infected town life. The quest for luxuries affected markets by enlarging exchange activity and encouraging retail trades. As both consumers and tradesmen, local goldsmiths, long-distance traders, bankers, and money changers played important roles in creating this new age of fashion. In response to a greater public display of luxury goods, civic sumptuary laws were written to curb spending and extreme fashion, but these were aimed at women, youth, and children, leaving townsmen largely unrestricted in their consumption. With erudition, grace, and an evocative selection of illustrations, some reproduced in full color, Susan Mosher Stuard explores the arrival of fashion in European history. = ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Schuette was RE: question re: floss silks for embroidery
Which is the 336pp., 11.5 x 8.5. (29 colour plates and 463 in b/w). Praeger 1964 edition? Beth At 01:00 PM 12/30/2006, you wrote: Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2006 23:23:00 -0800 From: Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED] By Schuette do you mean the little Pictorial History of Embroidery or the whacking great tombstone size two volume edition? Remember that I have the little one, and Multnomah County Library, Portland, OR (our little town) has the big one. We have GOT to arrange to spend a day or so photographing the big one with my digital camera. If that works it's DVD time! Wanda ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: [Schuette
Ooh... so this is the little bitty one! I haven't seen the big Daddy. Time to go library snooping again Thanks. Beth At 01:13 AM 12/31/2006, you wrote: Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2006 15:34:31 -0800 From: Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED] Which is the 336pp., 11.5 x 8.5. (29 colour plates and 463 in b/w). Praeger 1964 edition? That's the little single volume one. I think the two volume tombstone size books came out in about 1929. Some of the items shown in those books no longer exist thanks to the Big war that swept across Europe a few years later. Regina ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: Schuette
I found these but could not find an English edition. Were these what you were talking about? Beth Gestickte Bildteppiche und Decken des Mittelalters by Schuette, Marie. Leipzig: K.W. Hiersemann, 1927. First edition. Cloth (hardback). Elephant Folio (51 cm). Illus. with 20 color and 42 monochrome collotype reproductions. Embroidered Fancy Tapestries and coverlets of the Middle Ages. The first of three projected volumes (volume III was never published). It is still the standard work on the subject. Of the 62 51x65.5 cm plates, 28 are of tapestries and altar-cloths of the nunnery of Wienhausen near Celle, 30 of the nunnery Lune near Luneburg, and 4 of the Luneburg Museum. Text in German. Issue B bound in buckram with the plates folded and mounted on guards in the middle (issue A was a double-size portfolio, unfolded). Includes the offering prospectus in English from B. Westermann. Gestickte Bildteppiche Und Decken Des Mittelalters by Schuette, Marie. Band II: Braunschweig; Die Kloester Ebstorf Isenhagen; Wernigerode; Kloster Druebeck; Halberstadt. 52 plates (12 color), folio. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] CIETA Embroidery Newsletters
This site might be of interest: http://www.annatextiles.ch/newslet/newsint.htm Includes the CIETA Embroidery Newsletters from Dec. 1995 to Sept 2006 You might also find her home page http://www.annatextiles.ch/index.html of interest. Beth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] book of interest
Has anyone seen this book? It's a bit expensive (even with the 10% discount from the publisher), so I would ILL Please note the comment about fictional fabrics: how artists catered for an audience that desired to have gold brocades depicted but did not always possess the financial means to own the actual fabrics. Beth Gold Brocade and Renaissance Painting. A Study in Material Culture by Rembrandt Duits. 24 x 17 cm 484 pp. 290 illus. £150.00 (November 2006) ISBN 1904597424 Cloth. Rembrandt Duits completed his PhD at the University of Utrecht , and works at the Photographic Collection of the Warburg Institute, where he also teaches Renaissance material culture. His thesis, Gold Brocade and Renaissance Painting, won the Karel van Mander Prijs for the best publication on art between 1500 and 1800. Gold Brocade and Renaissance Painting discusses the representation of Italian Renaissance patterned silks in paintings from Italy and the Southern Netherlands , from the 14th to the 16th century. It is the first study to approach this subject from the perspective of material culture, attempting to answer such questions as why the subject of luxury textiles gained so great a popularity in Renaissance painting, how artists catered for an audience that desired to have gold brocades depicted but did not always possess the financial means to own the actual fabrics, and what the skills artists developed in this field contributed to the rising social status of the medium of painting. The material culture of the grand courts at which real gold brocade played an essential role in the display of wealth and status is compared to that of the socially ambitious but less affluent middle class for whom paintings were often the only affordable substitute for courtly splendour. Thus, the book also addresses the problem of the distinction between fact and fiction, imagination and reality in the account of contemporary social history presented in paintings. Contents * Introduction * Fictional Fabrics. The Correlation between Real and Depicted Silk Textiles * Conspicuous Consumption. The Markets for Gold Brocades and Paintings * Princely Patronage. The Function of Gold Brocades and Paintings at Grand Courts * Derived Display. Imitation of the Courtly Model by Urban Elites * Conflicting Connotations. The Role of Gold Brocade in Renaissance Iconography * Index http://www.pindarpress.co.uk/catalogue/early-italian/duits-brocade.htm ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] missing digest
For some reason I'm not getting the H-Costume Digests reliably. The problem began with h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 28 and they have since been coming in random order or missing completely. Could someone send h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 34 to me? Thanks. Beth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Romanesque costume
I am considering ordering a photocopy of Romanesque-Byzantine Elements in French and English Dress 1050-1180 by Jennifer Harris. Univ. Manchester Ph.D Thesis (1977) Has anyone seen/read this Thesis? I am not able to ILL this in the US, so a copy would have to be ordered from the Univ. of Manchester... and it's a bit pricey. A short article based on it was in Costume (Journal of the Costume Society) number 21 (1987) pp 4-15 'Thieves, Harlots and Stinking Goats': Fashionable Dress and Aesthetic Attitudes in Romanesque Art. Thanks. Beth Matney ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Romanesque costume
Thanks Robin, I have that article on my list! Beth Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2007 08:18:07 -0600 (CST) From: Robin Netherton I haven't seen the thesis and can't speak to it, but Jennifer Harris had an excellent article on 12th-century clothing in a collection of essays edited by my colleague Gale Owen-Crocker a few years ago. (rustle, rustle) Here it is: Jennifer Harris, Estroit vestu et menu cosu: Evidence for the construction of twelfth-century dress, in _Medieval Art: R4ecent Perspectives: A memorial tribute to C. R. Dodwell_, ed. Gale R. Owen-Crocker and Timothy Graham (Manchester University Press, 1998). ILL *that* book. You'll get a good idea of Harris's outlook from that, and then you can decide whether to plunk down the bucks to get the thesis. (My general feeling is that while I disagree with a few of her interpretations, it is a well-researched article that brings together a lot of hard-to-find evidence in a refreshingly coherent fashion.) Based on the title of the thesis, I wonder if the article I mention above wouldn't be much more in line with your interests anyway! --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] FW: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580' Reprint
David Brown http://www.oxbowbooks.com/ is very good to deal with, but so is Michael Shamansky http://www.artbooks.com/ Speaking of which, has anyone seen: Dalla testa ai piedi. Costume e moda in età gotica. Atti del Convegno di Studi, Trento, (From head to foot. Custom and fashion in the Gothc Age.) 7-8 ottobre 2002 edited by Laura Dal Pra and Paolo Peri. ISBN: 8877021659 Price: $82.50 Shamansky Description: Trento: Provincia Autonoma di Trento, 2006. 28cm., pbk., 622pp. prof. illus., most in color. Papers from the symposium held on the occasion of the exhibition Il Gotico nelle Alpi. (Beni Artistici e Storici del Trentino, Quaderni, 12) Beth At 06:04 AM 2/2/2007, you wrote: Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2007 23:26:37 -0800 From: Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED] I think we are going to have a better way of getting this book. David Brown books contacted me because I suggested THEY carry it. That way they can do all the work of getting it, pricing it (looks like about $99.50 but don't quote me yet) and making it available. They speak English, they do mail order all the time; they take plastic. I've even known them to make a deal where you pay in installments! If there was ever a book that those who love the Italian Renaissance either in costuming or in history (or both). You NEED this book! Stay tuned to this Group for further developments! Regina Romsey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] looking for picture in color
Photographs are permitted at the Met. hint Unfortunately, I live too far (Arkansas) to run in and take some! I do have the big Met catalog.. I'll check it. Couldn't find the painting in Storia. Beth Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2007 15:13:12 -0500 From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi Bjarne-- Yes, it looks to be embroidered. The painting is so muck lovelier than the BW photo. I have spent some time at the Met staring at it. The guards always tell me not to get too close... Monica ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Early Medieval horisontal looms
Thank you very much. Any evidence helps! Beth Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2007 11:29:33 + (GMT) From: Lena [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Early Medieval horisontal looms A while ago, someone on this list asked for reference to a shuttle found in Waterford, Ireland. I've come across a completely unrelated object, but relevant for the early medieval horisontal looms: A pulley from Sigtuna, Sweden (dated to 11th-12th centuries). Picture here: http://mis.historiska.se/mis/sok/fid.asp?fid=117780 My source (in swedish): http://histvarld.historiska.se/histvarld/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2335 If you want more info, either contact me, or ask the forum directly (scroll down the main forum page for the English forum). Hope this can be of use to some of you. /Lena ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
