[h-cost] recommendations for costume books only available at amazon.uk?
A friend of mine is ordering some things from amazon.uk, and was wondering if there's any good costuming books (or movies or TV series on video) that are only available in the UK? I had a list, but all those books are now available in the US for comparable prices. Thanks much, Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Gray Line Linen
I just had that exact experience. I need some fabric fast, and their website doesn't have rush delivery as an option, so I called. I had a VERY frustrating time just getting the person on the phone to take down my name and address. Someone else called me back the next day, and that conversation went way smoother. Claudine - Original Message From: Wicked Frau wickedf...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Fri, July 30, 2010 6:58:56 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gray Line Linen I have had to call them a number of times to get stuff straight. But I also recommend purchasing the samples. If you don't get satisfaction on the first call, keep calling...I have found the owner ( a male?) more responsive than some of the female folk I have spoken to Sg On Thu, Jul 29, 2010 at 9:58 PM, Michelle Plumb mpl...@wideopenwest.comwrote: Hooray, the site's up and running again! Look at all the goodies! Michelle ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sourcing Help
It's probably Petersham. Looks just like grosgrain, but is woven slightly differently. Claudine - Original Message From: Janyce Engan vpll.librar...@gmail.com To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Fri, October 1, 2010 11:35:12 AM Subject: [h-cost] Sourcing Help Hopefully I can take advantage of the wide body of knowledge out there to help me source this item. I'm looking for the type of belting that was used inside garments to cinch the garment tight to the body. The examples that I have from vintage clothing look to be a heavy woven silk with raised ridges - very much like gros grain ribbon, but heavier. Quite often the name of the company was either stamped or woven into the band. Like ribbon it's non-ravel on the lengthwise edges I've looked through various tailoring sites - and have found heavy loomed cottons - but nothing close to what I'm looking for. I'd even be happy cutting and sewing my own if I could find yardage approximating what I'm looking for. I've thought of the possibility of sewing two layers of gros grain together - but would rather have something already made up to work with. Thanks for any help you can give. Janyce Hill VPLL www.vpll.org ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Chemise pattern
As I recall, the general consensus is that this raglan-style is not supported by current research. If you want a more documentable pattern, go with this one: http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/chemise.html As her notes say, this pattern was taken from the book Cut My Cote which (as I recall) itself took the pattern from a surviving garment. People have used this pattern for years, and I would say it does result in a garment that looks a lot like your example painting. Refer also to Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 4 for tips on how to accomplish the gathering. Gathering, back in their day, is a lot more like super-fine cartridge pleating. That's really just how it turns out when you do gathering stitches by hand (it doesn't have to, but it sure looks good that way). I think you mentioned that you have fabric, but I will note: to best approximate this look, you'll benefit from fabric with a super soft hand. This: http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/cgi-bin/showAll.cgi?id=286category=Cotton%20Fabricfabric=53 might do the job. A pure silk voile might even be better, but I don't know where to find such fabric. Claudine - Original Message From: Laurie Taylor costume...@mazarineblue.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, October 11, 2010 11:53:55 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chemise pattern snipped Pattern-wise, I'm leaning towards the pattern shown on both of these links. It should be close enough to the chemise in the image that started all this, at least for my purposes. If I were going to produce my own fiber, spin and weave it, I'd be more concerned about exactly how the image chemise was made, but this will do. http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cheminst.html http://www.reddawn.net/costume/chemise.htm http://exhibits.denverartmuseum.org/artisansandkings/?page_id=23 Any other thoughts on the pattern most welcome. Laurie T. snipped ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Italian chemise
Hi Julie, It depends on how you define outrageously. I've bought handkerchief linen from all these folks: www.fabric-store.com www.fabric.com www.wmboothdraper.com www.graylinelinen.com And maybe some others that I can't remember at the moment. Quality varies from good to really good. None of the hanky linen I've gotten from these folks, however, will give you the look of the chemise that Laurie is attempting to make. The hand is just not soft enough. Perhaps the linen I've gotten just isn't fine enough, but more generally, linen is a pretty springy fiber, and would want to poof if you gathered so much of it so tightly. Claudine - Original Message From: Julie jtkn...@jtknits.cts.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, October 12, 2010 8:12:02 AM Subject: [h-cost] Italian chemise This is a lovely chemise. Judging by how very tiny the pleats/gathers are it must be a very fine fabric. I haven't had much luck finding fine linen that wasn't outrageously expensive. Where have you found fine linen in the U.S.? Julie in Ramona h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: I have to make this chemise. Someone else had inquired about the bodice in this picture, but the chemise just really hooked me. http://exhibits.denverartmuseum.org/artisansandkings/?page_id=23 The painting is by Titian and the title is Woman with a Mirror, at least on wga.hu. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hooks bars problem
Hi Kimiko, I was wrestling with what the sounds like the same problem on a friend of mine's Victorian bodice. She had used hook and eye tape to close the center front, and stitched it only to the inner layer of the bodice: makes sense, right? She didn't want the stitching that holds the tape on to show. Problem was that when she had the garment on the center front was under tension, and therefore the point under tension, the lining/facing fabric, pulled out and the result was the hooks and eyes as well as the lining/facing showing. Lacing her tighter wouldn't have helped because laying on a curvy, horizontal surface just isn't a natural thing for fabric to do, and it's going to want to drag and sag and generally be disagreeable. I could think of two solutions. Option 1: sew through all the layers, so that inside and outside are under even tension. Cover the visible stitching with trim. Option 2: which, someone already mentioned: set the hooks and eyes into the seam. Yes, they will show, and I figure: cover them with a placket. Lightweight boning in the seam helps too, though that more solves the hooks and eyes wanted to get close to each other, and causing gaps between them. If you're wearing a rigid under layer, that shouldn't be too much of a problem. Alternating hooks and eyes solves the problem of the hooks and eyes coming undone on their own, which happens when they don't have sufficient tension on them. I think my friend with the Victorian bodice is doing a combination of the two options, because the bodice is already made up and taking it apart to set hooks and eyes into the seams is just more effort than necessary. And say...how about sharing some pics? :) Claudine - Original Message From: Kimiko Small sstormwa...@yahoo.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Sun, October 17, 2010 10:07:36 PM Subject: [h-cost] Hooks bars problem Hi all, This is more of a how-to do sewing technique question, but it does apply to historical clothing. I made up a new silk damask early 16th c. gown, which came out wonderfully for the most part, except for one major problem. The gown was closed down the center front with hooks bars, as it was the only way I could think of to close the center front, doing an overlap. I don't use hooks bars, or eyes, very often for a stressed situation. I usually lace closures shut. Usually I use hooks bars or threadbars on small cuffs or to close a skirt closed where it doesn't show, and/or the item isn't under stress. Well, these were a little stressed, although I made the outer kirtle at least an inch bigger than the supporting petticoat (which was fully laced shut), and then redid the seams to make it even a bit looser. But the outer fabric pulled back and the hooks could be seen down the middle of the bodice front. It was not very attractive and made me feel uncomfortable wearing it. How do I prevent this from happening again? Does anyone have a good book or site or something that will help me? I'd love to improve on this so I don't feel so self conscious about what I am wearing. Thanks in advance. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hooks bars problem
Hi Alex, Yes, I agree, if the hooks, eyes, and seam are done properly, the hooks shouldn't show. The operative words being done properly. :) I also agree that hooks work best when they're stitched both in the holes and around the top of the hook. They're just more stable that way. I thought of a third option, which I used on a Victorian evening bodice recently, that encompasses Cyn's suggestions. Tell me if this is clear: When I made up the lining, I turned the center front and made a casing for a bone. I then set the lining in by hand, and stitched the hooks and eyes in after (I stitched a strip of grosgrain along the edge where they're attached, to give them something more to grab on to than just the lining fabric). The stitches for the hooks and eyes don't go all the way through to the outside fabric because the bone is in between. Result: the strain is on the seam that holds the bone, and there's no strain on the fashion fabric. The fashion fabric is also slightly wider at center from than the lining, so that it covers up any gap. This bodice would've been a perfect application for hooks and eyes set into the seam, but I didn't think of it at the time. Wish I had, so that the inside of the bodice would look tidier. Claudine - Original Message From: Alexandria Doyle garbaho...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, October 18, 2010 8:28:04 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hooks bars problem Option 2: which, someone already mentioned: set the hooks and eyes into the seam. Yes, they will show, and I figure: cover them with a placket. Just a note here, when you sew the hooks and eyes into the seam, you shouldn't be able to really see them anymore, just the edges of your bodice butting up together, so in this case, no placket to cover them is required. Oh, and you have to not only tack the lower part of the hook to the fabric, you also have to tack the upper part of the hook to fabric edge. The hook will have no oppertunity to flap or gap. it would only show at this point if there's A LOT of stress on it that pulls it out of their little pocket inside the seams. alex So much to do and so little attention span to get it done with… ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fabric - was: Shirt pattern - SCA period - pre-1600
Hi Laurie, If you bought the original shirt from a vendor, and from I recall of RenFaire vendors, it's probably cotton gauze (is it crinkly?) I suggest just using a lightweight linen. It'll be similar in texture, and very nice to wear. I loves me linen shirts, shifts, smocks, pants, skirts, dresses, etc. Claudine - Original Message From: Laurie Taylor costume...@mazarineblue.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Sun, October 17, 2010 12:40:55 PM Subject: [h-cost] Fabric - was: Shirt pattern - SCA period - pre-1600 Hello, me again. For that same shirt project, now that I have woken up and recognized the many resources already present in my studio, I'm hung up on fabric. Well, not really hung up as I can certainly use 100% linen and end up with a reasonably period shirt. But the shirt that he already has is 100% cotton - I know - not period - but very comfy and again, he likes it. The fabric strikes me as rather unusual. It's an off-white - very creamy - but it's almost like a crepe - a cotton crepe. Online searching for 100% cotton crepes has yielded very little. Fashion Fabrics Club does have a tan cotton/linen crepe and a purple 100% cotton crepe, but that's all I've found. I may be wrong about the existing shirt being of a crepe, but that's the closest I can guess, even handling it directly. It reminds me of cotton (or maybe linen) dish towels, reasonably finely woven but very soft. It's very much different from any weight/weave of linen that I've found anywhere. Any thoughts? Laurie T. -Original Message- snipped ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hooks bars problem
blew delicately into place snerk! Now, that is well said. :) And yes, if I wasn't clear, I meant that the boning is at the closure edges, so that they meet when the garment is closed. Claudine - Original Message From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, October 18, 2010 11:01:38 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hooks bars problem Well said, Claudine. Your additional detail describes almost exactly what I've done. (One difference: I bone the lining layer at the closure.) When worn, the undergarments take all the strain, the lining section of the bodice keeps the garment fastened and the outer layers can look like they just blew delicately into place. That's the trick. It should look effortless even tho' we all know it takes 100s of hours to accomplish the feat. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 9:37 AM, cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com wrote: I thought of a third option, which I used on a Victorian evening bodice recently, that encompasses Cyn's suggestions. Tell me if this is clear: When I made up the lining, I turned the center front and made a casing for a bone. I then set the lining in by hand, and stitched the hooks and eyes in after (I stitched a strip of grosgrain along the edge where they're attached, to give them something more to grab on to than just the lining fabric). The stitches for the hooks and eyes don't go all the way through to the outside fabric because the bone is in between. Result: the strain is on the seam that holds the bone, and there's no strain on the fashion fabric. The fashion fabric is also slightly wider at center from than the lining, so that it covers up any gap. This bodice would've been a perfect application for hooks and eyes set into the seam, but I didn't think of it at the time. Wish I had, so that the inside of the bodice would look tidier. Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Uniquely You dress form question [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
I have no idea if it'll regain it's original shape. If it doesn't, get some batting and pad it out where you need more fullness. Claudine - Original Message From: Wilson, Annette annette.wil...@environment.gov.au To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Mon, November 8, 2010 2:23:35 PM Subject: [h-cost] Uniquely You dress form question [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED] I found a second-hand Uniquely You dress form - a very rare beast in Australia. It must be at least twenty years old based on the condition of the foam where it has been exposed to light at the neck. It's about the right size, but when I removed the cover to alter it I found that the foam body has taken on the shape of the cover and it is too long in the waist for me. I have had a look on the web and found a picture of the form in its original shape without a cover. It shows that when new, the form doesn't have a waist line but is much the same thickness from breasts to hip. Have any of you had any experience with reshaping one of these dress forms? If I leave the cover off, will the foam gradually spring back towards the original shape?? I wish I could get a new one, but the quoted shipping charges to Australia are more than twice the cost of the dummy thanks in advance for any help or comments Annette Wilson (in Canberra, Australia) If you have received this transmission in error please notify us immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail or any attachments have been sent to you in error, that error does not constitute waiver of any confidentiality, privilege or copyright in respect of information in the e-mail or attachments. Please consider the environment before printing this email. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What costume-related holiday gifts did you get?
Two '50s style dresses, made by my unequal-able mother. A hand-knit, chunky scarf from my sister, plus hanks of her own hair that I will make rats from. A '60s era Reader's Digest reprint of a 1908 Sears Roebuck catalog from a friend. A visit from my father...oops, not costume related, except he brought the dresses. Pretty darn good Christmas, in my opinion. :) Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Early Elizabethan Corsets for Barbie
I've used 1/8 zip ties to bone doll corsets, for hard-body, not-squishable dolls. But I was making Victorian corsets. With a pair-of-bodies, you'll just have to let there be airspace under her boobs. Do share the results. :) Claudine - Original Message From: Natalie natali...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Fri, January 14, 2011 9:18:29 AM Subject: [h-cost] Early Elizabethan Corsets for Barbie I'm taking my passion for Barbie in a new direction (she previously only kept my crochet hook busy). I know I have seen a very well done website detailing how to make early Elizabethan underpinnings for Barbie, but now my google-fu fails me and I don't have it bookmarked either. It is not so much the pattern construction that eludes me as what to use to stiffen the corset to create the conical 'Bethan shape instead of Barbie's hourglass. If anyone has any ideas or can point me to the site I am wondering about, it would be very much appreciated! Thanks in advance! Natalie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Early Elizabethan Corsets for Barbie
It just occurred to me, for a body that small I would skip the underpinnings, and build the structure into the gown itself. The underpinnings may add to much bulk to make the garment look right. It just comes down to your goal, accurate from the skin out or merely accurate to the eye. Here's some more photos to give you ideas, just look for the links that say Doll Size. http://www.farthingales.on.ca/album.htm Claudine - Original Message From: Natalie natali...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Fri, January 14, 2011 9:18:29 AM Subject: [h-cost] Early Elizabethan Corsets for Barbie I'm taking my passion for Barbie in a new direction (she previously only kept my crochet hook busy). I know I have seen a very well done website detailing how to make early Elizabethan underpinnings for Barbie, but now my google-fu fails me and I don't have it bookmarked either. It is not so much the pattern construction that eludes me as what to use to stiffen the corset to create the conical 'Bethan shape instead of Barbie's hourglass. If anyone has any ideas or can point me to the site I am wondering about, it would be very much appreciated! Thanks in advance! Natalie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Historical figures
1/4 scale is SMALL, in my book. I've worked in approximately 1/3 scale, which gave me enough conniptions. I won't touch Barbie's size, so applaud anyone who is willing to. Claudine - Original Message From: Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Sun, January 16, 2011 4:30:02 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historical figures Umm, I did go and read the website. They are not THAT small, he does them one-quarter scale. So the average figure would be about 15-18 inches tall. (60=5 feet, 72=6 feet). I think Barbie is about 12 inches tall??? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Seeking help with La Fleur de Lyse pattern - 11th-12th Century
Hi Laurie, I haven't made this pattern, and unfortunately it's not in my collection to refer to. Based on my (admittedly limited) knowledge of clothing from that time, however, I think your first assumption is correct: the long gores go into the side seams, the short gores into CF and CB. I seem to recall some of the Greenland gowns where made that way. Claudine - Original Message From: Laurie Taylor costume...@mazarineblue.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Sun, January 23, 2011 7:43:53 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking help with La Fleur de Lyse pattern - 11th-12th Century I've been looking at this pattern some more, and I still can't decide what the instructions mean. There are 4 body panels - two fronts, two backs. It has side seams and seams up center front and center back. There are 2 sets of gores. One longer - to well above the waist, or about 4 inches below the armscye, and one shorter, to about waist level. I'm viewing them as from the hem up as the notches seem to work that way. The instructions and the notches seem rather vague. I'm thinking that probably the pairs of short gores go front/back and the long gores go to the side seams - or vice versa - long gores front/back and short gores to the side seams. There may be something that I'm missing, but I can't figure it out. If anyone has used this pattern, I'd love to talk to you! Laurie T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] books on kumihomo braiding
Hello, I'm perusing books on Kumihimo braiding, and wish to ask the braiders on the list: which is/are you favorite? Which do you find to be the most comprehensive? The most practical? As much as I love collecting books, I'd like to start with one that's both a good starting point and still useful once I'm well past starting. I also came across the multiple volumes by Makiko Tada, which appear to be about braiding in general and, eep! are quite pricey. Does anyone own any of these, and is able to give a review? Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Has anyone tried any of these on fabric?
Hard to be sure without a photo of the actual scissors, but I believe I have a pair of these. Terrible. Barely cuts paper. Incredibly cheaply made. Claudine - Original Message From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, February 3, 2011 6:25:56 PM Subject: [h-cost] Has anyone tried any of these on fabric? http://www.alvinco.com/shopping/family_sale_0_familyid_12030_cat_978_item_1293027097 7 http://www.alvinco.com/shopping/family_sale_0_familyid_12030_cat_978_item_1293007097 7 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 15th c sewing technique
Buttons along the edge: that sounds familiar. I feel I've seen a photo of that...maybe in Textiles and clothing, c.1150-c.1450 (Crowfoot. et al) cited by Catherine earlier? It's been a while since I did any research related to that time period, but buttons along the edge triggered an image of an extant find in my muddled brain. Claudine - Original Message From: otsisto otsi...@socket.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Sun, February 13, 2011 11:26:24 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th c sewing technique -Original Message- he kirtle evidence sounds interesting. Do you remember which list you saw it on? (I'd love to check back to find the source.) -- Cathy Raymond ca...@thyrsus.com This would have been about 6-8 years ago. I am not sure which list. I was going to say 12th century yahoo list but I was only on that list for two years. Might have been the SCA garb list. I remember that the kirtle had portions missing but it did have some of the buttons still attached which is why I remember it. The buttons were not sewn onto the front of the kirtle fabric but along the edge. I usually gather info for myself, I usually don't think to record it as I think that most here already know most of the things I come across. It is very rare that I know of something that others do not. De ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 15th c sewing technique
Perusing Kass's research (http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/historical-clothing.php?c=8w=103r=Y) arguably several of the extent garments have buttons attached at the edge of the closing edge. But that's not what I'm thinking of, I'm remembering a photograph from a book, that included documentation of buttonholes backed with...something, tape or something that looked like tape. Sorry, it's been too long, and I don't remember clearly anymore. Claudine - Original Message From: Purple Kat purplkat...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, February 14, 2011 12:17:16 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th c sewing technique Buttons on the edge --- sounds like the extant dress that either Kass McGann or bangs head on desk - another top garb lady -- saw and reproduced. The dress was either Irish or Scottish in origin. It sticks in my head because the extant dress was *almost* the ladies exact size. Katheryne On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 2:37 PM, cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com wrote: Buttons along the edge: that sounds familiar. I feel I've seen a photo of that...maybe in Textiles and clothing, c.1150-c.1450 (Crowfoot. et al) cited by Catherine earlier? It's been a while since I did any research related to that time period, but buttons along the edge triggered an image of an extant find in my muddled brain. Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Pinking machine - was: Has anyone tried any of these on fabric?
I've gotten the emails in this thread all out of order (what is UP with the interwebs today), so I apologize if I'm repeating something already said. I hopped over to ebay and searched for pinking machine (actually, that came up as soon as I started typing pink), and hey NEAT-O. What a nifty little tool, especially if you have problem hands and can't use a rotary cutter. Niftier still was the one that appears to be a *sewing machine attachment*. My one disappointment is that the blade is a wave cut, not the much-sought-after scallop. I suppose a modern scallop blade can be retrofitted to fit, but if I can get my hands on a scallop blade (I know they're out there) then I don't really need the machine. But I still think the machine is super cool. Claudine - Original Message - From: Irina Moeller ladya...@cox.net To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2011 4:26 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Has anyone tried any of these on fabric? I found a cute little hand cranked machine that does the pinking. I have no idea how old it is but it does the job just fine. Anne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A Victorian/steampunk pattern question
Vest: Laughing Moon Merchantile, http://www.lafnmoon.com/ though you'll have to do a little improvisation to get the double hem effect. You won't find a pattern exactly like that. The coat looks like a loose-fitting version of a standard, single-breasted coat, with a capelet attached (that's my reading, anyway). Unfortunately no coat patterns are percolating to the top of my brain at the moment, but I'm sure something like that is find-able. Simplicity had a set geared towards the Deadwood look, but I don't recall if it included a coat. The pants don't have a lot of detail, so if you an find any plain pant pattern that fits, then you can add the cuff decoration. Claudine - Original Message From: Pixel, Goddess and Queen pi...@hundred-acre-wood.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, March 8, 2011 1:35:19 PM Subject: [h-cost] A Victorian/steampunk pattern question Hello the list! The theme of Convergence (July, Twin Cities) this year is steampunk. And for some reason I have not yet figured out, I decided that my husband needs to have this costume: http://www.girlgeniusonline.com/comic.php?date=20041220 I can find patterns. That's not the problem. My problem is that I am an intermediate sewer at best (I mostly do 13th century, and that's all rectangles and triangles, no tailoring), and I have no idea which patterns are good and which are hard to follow. What I am hoping is that someone has a recomendation for patterns for the coat, shirt, and vest (I am going to fake it on pants) that will fit a short (5'6) round guy. He wears a size 2XL vest. Thanks in advance! Jen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Patterns of time Ageless Patterns trim instructions
No. Ageless Patterns' patterns are scaled up and copied out of period fashion magazines, including the instructions, which aren't more than a paragraph, if even. One buys them in anticipation of doing a little to a lot of work to produce the garment. Don't expect instructions, grading, seam allowances, markings, etc. that you find in a modern pattern. Claudine - Original Message From: Nancy Kiel nancy_k...@hotmail.com To: costume list h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, March 15, 2011 9:56:06 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns of time Ageless Patterns trim instructions I haven't dealt with any of the patterns, but when I went to the website I was alarmed by the owner's comment I have done my best to include all pattern pieces. I would certainly hope so! Has she not made up these patterns herself to check that they work? Nancy Kiel nancy_k...@hotmail.com Never tease a weasel! This is very good advice. For the weasel will not like it And teasing isn't nice. From: otsi...@socket.net To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2011 16:17:44 -0500 Subject: [h-cost] Patterns of time Ageless Patterns trim instructions Today I received a pattern from Patterns of Time, this is the second time I received the pattern folded and stuffed in an envelope. They also, at least on the clothing patterns place their labels on top of print or design, instead of off to the side. I know they are capable of doing this as the Ageless Patterns of trim has the PT labels in at the bottom of the page and not at the top covering the design. With most of my patterns that are not the big 3 I place instructions in clear sleeves and put is all together in a three ring binder because unlike the big 3 I have to do extra work to get the pattern. Now I have to go and place the instructions between two heavy books and a flat surface. I wish I had read this before I ordered the trim Pamphlets http://www.gbacg.org/great-pattern-review/ageless.html They have pictures and a paragraph making an attempt at telling you what is done. No step by step instructions with diagrams. #1240, trim #5 appears to have piping but it is not in the instructions, instead they say the lining comes over the edge and hems on the outside. I thought I was getting a good deal at $3 ea. I probably would have ordered these patterns anyway but it would have been nice to know what I was really getting. Would have ordered the gown anyway as I would have to adjust to my size and adapt it. The trim on the other hand, I can borrow from a friend books with clearer instructions. De taking toe of the soap box ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Patterns of time Ageless Patterns trim instructions
Agreed. Caveat emptor, is all I'm saying. Claudine - Original Message From: Nancy Kiel nancy_k...@hotmail.com To: costume list h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, March 15, 2011 10:15:28 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns of time Ageless Patterns trim instructions But I think I could expect to find all the pattern pieces. Nancy Kiel nancy_k...@hotmail.com Never tease a weasel! This is very good advice. For the weasel will not like it And teasing isn't nice. Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 10:02:48 -0700 From: cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns of time Ageless Patterns trim instructions No. Ageless Patterns' patterns are scaled up and copied out of period fashion magazines, including the instructions, which aren't more than a paragraph, if even. One buys them in anticipation of doing a little to a lot of work to produce the garment. Don't expect instructions, grading, seam allowances, markings, etc. that you find in a modern pattern. Claudine - Original Message From: Nancy Kiel nancy_k...@hotmail.com To: costume list h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, March 15, 2011 9:56:06 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns of time Ageless Patterns trim instructions I haven't dealt with any of the patterns, but when I went to the website I was alarmed by the owner's comment I have done my best to include all pattern pieces. I would certainly hope so! Has she not made up these patterns herself to check that they work? Nancy Kiel nancy_k...@hotmail.com Never tease a weasel! This is very good advice. For the weasel will not like it And teasing isn't nice. From: otsi...@socket.net To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2011 16:17:44 -0500 Subject: [h-cost] Patterns of time Ageless Patterns trim instructions Today I received a pattern from Patterns of Time, this is the second time I received the pattern folded and stuffed in an envelope. They also, at least on the clothing patterns place their labels on top of print or design, instead of off to the side. I know they are capable of doing this as the Ageless Patterns of trim has the PT labels in at the bottom of the page and not at the top covering the design. With most of my patterns that are not the big 3 I place instructions in clear sleeves and put is all together in a three ring binder because unlike the big 3 I have to do extra work to get the pattern. Now I have to go and place the instructions between two heavy books and a flat surface. I wish I had read this before I ordered the trim Pamphlets http://www.gbacg.org/great-pattern-review/ageless.html They have pictures and a paragraph making an attempt at telling you what is done. No step by step instructions with diagrams. #1240, trim #5 appears to have piping but it is not in the instructions, instead they say the lining comes over the edge and hems on the outside. I thought I was getting a good deal at $3 ea. I probably would have ordered these patterns anyway but it would have been nice to know what I was really getting. Would have ordered the gown anyway as I would have to adjust to my size and adapt it. The trim on the other hand, I can borrow from a friend books with clearer instructions. De taking toe of the soap box ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Lark Rise to Candleford
Ok, I didn't need that distraction, but I thank you for it anyway! Guess what I'll be watching over the summer. Franchesca, have a look at this video, and skip to about 3:15: http://youtu.be/S-vwWPvy_ok I was hoping for shots of the lower half, but didn't see any in this clip. The bodice does not open in the back, but I don't think the buttons on the bodice are functional. Link posted by Viv: http://lehottomato.blogspot.com/ They don't appear to be under tension here, and there's no hint of buttonholes. It might close with hidden hooks and eyes, but I see no reason why not to go with functioning buttons. If you want to copy this for modern wear, I can imagine starting with a strapless princess-seam dress with sweetheart neckline, and modifying. Claudine - Original Message From: SPaterson sjpater...@eastlink.ca To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, May 9, 2011 3:51:37 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lark Rise to Candleford The dress has a delightful bustle or back sweep on the skirt - - I suggest watching the series and freeze framing pics of Dorcas - it is available on You Tube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4gsD78eahg - or writing the costume designer :) Sarah Paterson - Original Message - I just love it! What pattern out there similar to this? I mean, this is the kind of thing I would wear to the office if I could make it. :) Franchesca ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cameras for photographing costumes in poor light?
Everything Cin said, to which I add: get a tripod. Even a little desktop one will do loads for improving low-light photography. Claudine (I don't speak photog, but know what it looks like.) - Original Message From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, May 19, 2011 4:56:43 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cameras for photographing costumes in poor light? Aylwen, That URL was too long, I guess. I got page not found error. I know a little about cameras, but I cannot tell what Olympus camera you're looking at. My previous digital SLR camera was Olympus, so I do have a soft spot for the camera line. I'm going to assume you're talking about SLRs not point shoot cameras for casual users. ...snipped ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] tambour embroidery--more questions
HI Charlene, I have a tambour hoop from Lacis, and when I got it I also got a screw clamp, similar to this: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-10053/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1storeId=10051catalogId=10053 so that I can clamp the base of the stand to a work table (I only have one clamp, and think 2 will work better, given the width of the stand). Also, my hoop can be removed from the base, so rotating the work only requires rotating the hoop, not the hoop and the stand. Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
