Hi Alex,

Yes, I agree, if the hooks, eyes, and seam are done properly, the hooks 
shouldn't show. The operative words being "done properly." :)

I also agree that hooks work best when they're stitched both in the holes and 
around the top of the hook. They're just more stable that way.

I thought of a third option, which I used on a Victorian evening bodice 
recently, that encompasses Cyn's suggestions. Tell me if this is clear:

When I made up the lining, I turned the center front and made a casing for a 
bone. I then set the lining in by hand, and stitched the hooks and eyes in 
after 
(I stitched a strip of grosgrain along the edge where they're attached, to give 
them something more to grab on to than just the lining fabric). The stitches 
for 
the hooks and eyes don't go all the way through to the outside fabric because 
the bone is in between. Result: the strain is on the seam that holds the bone, 
and there's no strain on the fashion fabric. The fashion fabric is also 
slightly 
wider at center from than the lining, so that it covers up any gap.

This bodice would've been a perfect application for hooks and eyes set into the 
seam, but I didn't think of it at the time. Wish I had, so that the inside of 
the bodice would look tidier.




Claudine




----- Original Message ----
> From: Alexandria Doyle <[email protected]>
> To: Historical Costume <[email protected]>
> Sent: Mon, October 18, 2010 8:28:04 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hooks & bars problem
> 
> >
> > Option 2: which, someone already mentioned: set the hooks and eyes  into the
> > seam. Yes, they will show, and I figure: cover them with a  placket.
> >
> 
> Just a note here, when you sew the hooks and eyes into  the seam, you
> shouldn't be able to really see them anymore, just the edges of  your
> bodice butting up together, so in this case, no placket to cover  them
> is required.
> 
> Oh, and you have to not only tack the lower part of  the hook to the
> fabric, you also have to tack the upper part of the hook to  fabric
> edge.  The hook will have no oppertunity to flap or gap.  it  would
> only show at this point if there's A LOT of stress on it that pulls  it
> out of their little pocket inside the seams.
> 
> alex
> So much to do  and so little attention span to get it done  with…
> 
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