KR> Fw: Re: Ram air fuel venting

2014-04-09 Thread joe.kr2s.builder at juno.com
LArry Bell wrote> The chatter on air
>locks was good too and I am going to try to get all my tubes straight.
>Larry Bell


Larry - don't just try to eliminate air locks in the fuel line. try to make it 
all slope up hill towards the tank so air that may ever get in for what ever 
reason rises naturally to the tank. I was able to do it even though it is very 
slight and depending on wether it is a tail dragger or nose dragger. It is 
easier for a nose wheel because it is always close to flying attitude. (yes 
this is assuming that it is gravity feed from a header tank)Joe horton

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KR> Ram air fuel venting

2014-04-09 Thread joe.kr2s.builder at juno.com
Oscar,Your math is just about spot on as I see .9 to 1.2 lbs depending on the 
actual fuel level in the tank in cruise flight.Joe

Do THIS before eating carbs every time
1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar & decrease fat storage
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KR> Canopy shade

2014-04-09 Thread Mark Wegmet
Just a thought; soft foam, over coat with 'cotton' and flood with wood glue
or some other non-structural adhesive that can be sanded and painted. Maybe
'form' with soft wire (copper, solid core, thin). It is after all just a
shade.

JMHO
Mark W.
N952MW (still res.)

-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Mark Langford
Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2014 5:42 AM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> Canopy shade

Dene Collett wrote:

> Guys I see a lot of talk about displays that are barely readable in 
> sunlight but I have yet to see anybody create a glare shield over 
> their panel.
> Everybody seems to just put their panel at the end of the deck. Why 
> not just extend the deck a few inches over the top of the panel and 
> create some shade? It might not be a total elimination of the problem 
> but it would surely help to solve it.

One consideration on having a lip overhanging the panel is that in a crash
scenario, anything stiff and part of the front deck could cut into your
skull when your forehead hits it.  
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KR> Fw: Re: Ram air fuel venting

2014-04-09 Thread lebell8978
Thanks, Joe, I'll do that. I admire your airplane, Larry




Sent from Samsung tablet

 Original message 


KR> Canopy shade

2014-04-09 Thread Paul Visk
This stuff looks interesting. ?I wonder if it would smooth out on a double 
contour canopy??


Paul Visk
Belleville, Il
618-406-4705

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S?4

 Original message From: Craig Williams 
 Date:04/09/2014  11:06 AM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: KRnet  Subject: Re: KR> 
Canopy shade 
Here is what I am looking to use on my canopy.  Its the Zenith 601 bubble 
and I will need a shade or something like this.

http://www.windowtint.com/Plexi-Window-Films/

Craig
www.kr2seafury.com


On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 10:46 AM, peter  wrote:

Jeff; Nice! But try it on a scrap piece of plexiglass first... wait a month. 
Solvents (paint vehicle) are unpredictable. Peter



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KR> Canopy shade

2014-04-09 Thread kr2seafury at yahoo.com
Krypton makes a paint called "stained glass".? They say on the can that "it may 
be used on some plastics".? I have used it on acrylic with good results.? Comes 
in yellow , red and blue.?? I will try it on my old Colt windshield and report 
back.

Craig
Www.kr2seafury.com

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android



KR> Canopy shade

2014-04-09 Thread laser147 at juno.com
> "For what its worth, I bought a can of VHT Nite Shades to spray on the
inside of my canopy above my head."

I tried a can of Testor's translucent black tint on some scrap canopy
material (actually Lexan) when I was working on getting some shade in the
cockpit.  The VHT product might work better but my experience with my
spray can of Testor's was that it came out splotchy looking.  I think it
would have worked to darken the interior but I don't think it would have
looked very nice, plus I think (as Peter mentioned) the solvents would
probably have damaged the plastic.   

I've always liked the look of what Bill Clapp and others have done in
creating less glare in the cockpit.  One disadvantage of that route is
that you lose any ability to see out the top.  With my static cling film
it is still possible to see through the tint.  

The ideal solution would be to find some photosensitive material that
would darken in sunlight and become clear at night.  

I recall trying at least three different types of static cling material -
some for house windows, some for cars, before I decided on the one I
used.  I planned on re-doing the job, considering my first application to
be "practice", but I never re-did it and now, at least five years later,
it has required no attention at all and looks the same as the day I put
it on.  I cut it to shape and used soapy water to slide it into position
and to squeeze any bubbles out.  Considering there is no adhesive
involved, it's amazing that the film has never drooped or come off.  It
made a world of difference in cockpit comfort and reduced glare.  

I still have some extra rolls since I planned to do a more meticulous
application later, so I know what I used.  I didn't get it from Amazon,
but this is the product:  

http://www.amazon.com/Sunshine-Kids-Shade-Window-Black/dp/B00081L2Q2

Here's an RV owner who has had the same experience:

"I put the static cling film on the inside of my RV-6 tip up canopy about
7 yrs ago. We put it in as a temporary measure until I found a better
alternative. It's still there and has done a great job. I bought it at a
local auto supply store. Dave"


Mike
KSEE

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KR> Ram air fuel venting

2014-04-09 Thread Lawrence Bell
Hey Oscar, I like that physics! You guys have answered my questions on ram
air for my header tank. I bought a fiberglass tank with ram air in the cap
and 1/4 inch fitting near the top. I changed the 1/4 inch to 3/8ths got rid
of the ram in the cap and am running 3/8 tub to a collator, and then a 1/4
to an Aerocarb which only had a 1/4 inch inlet. Just as an aside, the tank
was contaminated with some kind of tar and I had to open it up and clean
it. This is probably not interesting, but my 2 bits. The chatter on air
locks was good too and I am going to try to get all my tubes straight.
Larry Bell


On Tue, Apr 8, 2014 at 10:06 PM, Oscar Zuniga  wrote:

> Joe wrote-
> >I have no data to compare as it was built like this from the get go
> >but I do know that my fuel pressure from the header tank (gravity feed)
> >has never been below 8/10 of a pound even though mathematically
> >that should be impossible given the height of the tank at low fuel level
> >above the pressure sensor.
>
> Joe; how did you figure the math?  With, or without, ram air pressure?  To
> get 0.8 psi by gravity head alone, the difference in elevation between the
> static fuel level in the header tank and the place where you measure fuel
> pressure (presumed to be the inlet to the float bowl) would need to be a
> little over 22" depending on what fuel you're running and its specific
> gravity.  That's a law of physics that can't be altered unless you are on
> another planet where the force of gravity is different, or if you are
> somewhere near Groom Lake in Area 51, and all bets are off.  However, if
> you were referring to your static head *plus* ram air pressure at cruise,
> it's not a stretch because (example): at 124 MPH, the stagnation (ram)
> pressure of air at STP is about 0.3 psig, so your gravity head of another
> 0.5 psig would be an elevation difference of a little less than 14" between
> static fuel level in the header tank and the inlet to the float bowl.
>  Probably not unrealistic for your setup.
>
> Whatever the case, you've seen 0.8 psi at the carb with your setup, and
> there is no arguing with that.  Good info.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Medford, OR
>
> ___
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>


KR> Canopy shade

2014-04-09 Thread brian.kraut at eamanufacturing.com
Let us know how it works.  I have window tint on the inside of my
Mustang bubble and it is not dark enough and not very smooth either so I
would like to replace it with a spray on coating.


 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> Canopy shade
From: Jeff Lange 
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wed, April 09, 2014 7:04 am
To: KRnet 

For what its worth, I bought a can of VHT Nite Shades to spray on the
inside of my canopy above my head. It?s a translucent black paint that
is intended for the dimwits that want to black out their turn signals.
Not sure what it does in the IR and UV spectrums, but it would dim the
sunlight coming through the canopy while still letting you have
visibility through the area. I have not tried it yet but will before the
summer head and ear sunburn season starts ; )

Here is the link: http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/niteshades/

Jeff Lange
Race 64 - Skye Racer
Blog: http://schmleff.blogspot.com
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/schmleff

On Apr 9, 2014, at 5:41 AM, Mark Langford  wrote:

> Dene Collett wrote:
> 
>> Guys I see a lot of talk about displays that are barely readable in sunlight
>> but I have yet to see anybody create a glare shield over their panel.
>> Everybody seems to just put their panel at the end of the deck. Why not just
>> extend the deck a few inches over the top of the panel and create some
>> shade? It might not be a total elimination of the problem but it would
>> surely help to solve it.
> 
> One consideration on having a lip overhanging the panel is that in a crash 
> scenario, anything stiff and part of the front deck could cut into your skull 
> when your forehead hits it. Obviously nobody would put a knife edge out there 
> and a rounded surface should be the goal. I did create a removable glare 
> shield for N56ML that hangs out over the panel for exactly the reason you 
> state, and it was edged with some rubber edging to soften the edge. The whole 
> thing was added after the plane had been flying a while, and was built in 
> place out of a plyfoam sandwich...1/4" Last-o-foam with a layer of glass on 
> each side. The side facing the pilot was rounded and the glass wrapped around 
> it to soften it, and then a layer of gray felt was added for appearance, and 
> finished off with the rubber edging. I'll try to get a picture of that. I 
> later discovered that felt was a bad idea, as the canopy would focus the sun 
> on the felt and come very close to lighting it on fire!
> 
> One "advantage" (and this is a stretch) of the original KR2 bubble is that 
> the decking surrounding the bubble forms a huge shade over the instrument 
> panel, creating more shade than anybody would ever want. It's almost too dark 
> in there!
> 
> I started N891JF over the weekend, and nothing leaked or flew apart. Progress 
> is being made...
> 
> Mark Langford
> ML at N56ML.com
> website at http://www.N56ML.com
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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KR> Canopy shade

2014-04-09 Thread peter
Jeff; Nice! But try it on a scrap piece of plexiglass first... wait a month. 
Solvents (paint vehicle) are unpredictable. Peter




KR> Canopy shade

2014-04-09 Thread Dene
Guys I see a lot of talk about displays that are barely readable in sunlight
but I have yet to see anybody create a glare shield over their panel.
Everybody seems to just put their panel at the end of the deck. Why not just
extend the deck a few inches over the top of the panel and create some
shade? It might not be a total elimination of the problem but it would
surely help to solve it.

Regards
Dene Collett
www.denecollett.com


-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of
laser147 at juno.com
Sent: 09 April, 2014 8:35 AM
To: krnet at list.krnet.org
Subject: KR> Canopy shade

" . . . or paint the top of my bubble canopy."

The RV guys often use Koger Sunshades.  By now the company may have one
that will fit a KR canopy.  





KR> Canopy shade

2014-04-09 Thread Craig Williams
Here is what I am looking to use on my canopy.? Its the Zenith 601 bubble and I 
will need a shade or something like this.

http://www.windowtint.com/Plexi-Window-Films/

Craig
www.kr2seafury.com


On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 10:46 AM, peter  wrote:

Jeff; Nice! But try it on a scrap piece of plexiglass first... wait a month. 
Solvents (paint vehicle) are unpredictable. Peter



___
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KR> Canopy shade

2014-04-09 Thread Jeff Lange
For what its worth, I bought a can of VHT Nite Shades to spray on the inside of 
my canopy above my head. It?s a translucent black paint that is intended for 
the dimwits that want to black out their turn signals. Not sure what it does in 
the IR and UV spectrums, but it would dim the sunlight coming through the 
canopy while still letting you have visibility through the area. I have not 
tried it yet but will before the summer head and ear sunburn season starts ; )

Here is the link: http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/niteshades/

Jeff Lange
Race 64 - Skye Racer
Blog: http://schmleff.blogspot.com
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/schmleff

On Apr 9, 2014, at 5:41 AM, Mark Langford  wrote:

> Dene Collett wrote:
> 
>> Guys I see a lot of talk about displays that are barely readable in sunlight
>> but I have yet to see anybody create a glare shield over their panel.
>> Everybody seems to just put their panel at the end of the deck. Why not just
>> extend the deck a few inches over the top of the panel and create some
>> shade? It might not be a total elimination of the problem but it would
>> surely help to solve it.
> 
> One consideration on having a lip overhanging the panel is that in a crash 
> scenario, anything stiff and part of the front deck could cut into your skull 
> when your forehead hits it.  Obviously nobody would put a knife edge out 
> there and a rounded surface should be the goal.  I did create a removable 
> glare shield for N56ML that hangs out over the panel for exactly the reason 
> you state, and it was edged with some rubber edging to soften the edge.  The 
> whole thing was added after the plane had been flying a while, and was built 
> in place out of a plyfoam sandwich...1/4" Last-o-foam with a layer of glass 
> on each side.  The side facing the pilot was rounded and the glass wrapped 
> around it to soften it, and then a layer of gray felt was added for 
> appearance, and finished off with the rubber edging.  I'll try to get a 
> picture of that.  I later discovered that felt was a bad idea, as the canopy 
> would focus the sun on the felt and come very close to lighting it on fire!
> 
> One "advantage" (and this is a stretch) of the original KR2 bubble is that 
> the decking surrounding the bubble forms a huge shade over the instrument 
> panel, creating more shade than anybody would ever want.  It's almost too 
> dark in there!
> 
> I started N891JF over the weekend, and nothing leaked or flew apart. Progress 
> is being made...
> 
> Mark Langford
> ML at N56ML.com
> website at http://www.N56ML.com
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options



KR> Canopy shade

2014-04-09 Thread laser147 at juno.com
" . . . or paint the top of my bubble canopy."

The RV guys often use Koger Sunshades.  By now the company may have one
that will fit a KR canopy.  

I've had excellent results with static-cling film I found on line.  It's
held up extremely well over the years.  I think Wal-Mart has some. 
There's lots of options rather than painting.  

Asus just came out with a 700 nit tablet that's less than $300, BTW.  

Mike
KSEE


The #1 Worst Carb Ever?
Click to Learn #1 Carb that Kills Your Blood Sugar Dont Eat This!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5344ea62c0fd26a627a87st02vuc