KR> VW Engines
its not necessarily cheap but a KR is about as cheap as it gets. and I honestly have concluded that the VW can be acceptably reliable and easy / cheap to maintain. On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 9:29 PM, Phillip Hill via KRnet wrote: > I don't know, I've been debating abandoning the KR with all the > discouraging comments about the VW based designs. All the other options are > super expensive. Seems flying is for the rich. >
KR> Revmaster R2300 and R3000 info
I inquired with them about the differences between the "quickie" 2180's of the 80's and newer engines. It was confirmation that the improvements are in displacement, CDI ignition, and head improvements. I was happy to confirm (again) that the bottom end is as tough then as now, aparently. I also asked about the R3000 and he said they are going to build it when financing allows mass production. here is part of their reply: The engine we build today is equipped with a self-energized CDI ignition system and the older engines had Bendix magnetos which are no longer available. It has an improved geared starter, newer RevFlow carburetor. Some of the older engines had the old POSA. The crankshaft is 84mm vs. the 78mm in the 2100. The cylinders are 94mm vs. 92mm. The camshaft has a higher lift and duration than the older engines.There is a 40 amp alternating system, dual alternators 20 amps each, combines with dual voltage regulator/rectifiers. The older engine had 15 amps only.
KR> VW Engines
There are a couple of versions of an additional front mounted bearing. It's called a 5th bearing, BTA, (better than air), etc. Go to flycorvair.net or Dan Wesemans Fly with? SPA. Or google Corvallis 5th bearing.?Bill Jacobs Daytona Beach, Fl. On Thursday, June 23, 2016 12:44 PM, Kayak Chris via KRnet wrote: Well this set of comments would have me steer well clear of GPASC engine. Even if they are reliable when properly mated and assembled, it sounds like their crankshaft/hub solution is not very serviceable down the line. After all these years how can this not been resolved? Presumably the revmaster solution is more certain in service and serviceability. Having built one of these several times, I'm not > a fan of the keyway setup.? The slots are in hub and crank are shallow, and > the key is provided as a square key that you need to grind (or mill) down to > something way thinner to fit between hub and crank. Getting a good fit with > maximum material is trial and error. The key is only there to ensure the > timing mark stays constant if the hub is removed.? The taper is where the > power is transferred. > > Crank and hub are also matched sets due to tolerances on the angle.? The hub > still needs to be lapped onto the crank, which is a two-hour chore by hand. > > The hub/bearing clearance is not consistent. The crank and bearing are sold > as a set, and getting a new bearing for an existing crank is iffy.? I've > torqued the case to 8 ft-lbs and the crank still spun, then when I torqued > it to 14 the crank seized.? No amount of refitting cured that one.? I'm not > a great fan of the prop bolt...1/2" RH threads. Revmaster's is .75" LH > threads, which can be torqued higher for a better connection. Otherwise, a > simple engine backfire can unscrew the prop, despite proper torque and > Loctite 620 on the bolt? threads. > > If the crankshaft's oil seal leaks, the hub isn't going to come off without > a 20 ton press, so tear the engine down to replace the seals, and hope the > next seals work better.? My luck with those seals has not been good either. > That's the only place my engine has lost oil. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options
KR> Revmaster R3000
They routinely test their engines on the race track for quite some time before it appears on an aircraft...at least that's what I suspect. On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 12:04 PM, Dj Merrill via KRnet wrote: > On 06/22/2016 10:14 PM, Chris Prata via KRnet wrote: > > wow, that R3000 is interesting! > > > >> > https://issuu.com/panzera/docs/issue_104.5 > > That issue is from 2012. What ever happened with the R3000? I don't > see any mention of it on their website: > > http://revmasteraviation.com/ > > -Dj > > -- > Dj Merrill - N1JOV - EAA Chapter 87 > Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/ > Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/ > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options >
KR> VW Engines
Just an pesky known issue ... I have the Harley-Davidson of the air. It marks it's spot where ever I park. I have decided that it is a defect in the block somewhere that the oil is leaking from. It has been doing it for years and I am just sick of it so i am replacing the block. it isn't a lot in the scheme of things, about a quart every 15 hours. But it sure makes a mess. I am currently preping the new block and making sure i have every part ready. I also have Roy making a CNC part for me to clean up my installation a bit. I might do it between OSH and the Gathering. I am certain that I can take the engine off on a Friday after work and have it back on the plane by sunday afternoon... So no problem to make it to the Gathering. Joe - Original Message - From: "Larry Flesner via KRnet" To: "KRnet" Cc: "Larry Flesner" Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2016 4:50:38 PM Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines > I will probably take the engine apart in the next couple months > and if Dan wants to examine it I would return it to him to check out >Joe Horton N357CJ - +++ Not before the Gathering, I hope, unless you suspect problems. Play safe Larry Flesner ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options
KR> VW heads
I called Revmaster Tuesday, but got no answer. Today was better, and I talked to a guy about their heads, hoping to find some with nice air passages as well as "advanced" valve seats. The photo on Revmaster Aviation's website only shows the chamber side, and their website in general had lots of issues, such as an inop price list. He told me to go look at the photos on the automotive website, since they were the same RM-049 heads for either application. After seeing that photo, I was not impressed that the passages are much better than what has become normal for VW head castings, although the castings are clearly not stock VW derived. He also said their seat material was something like "latest technology that others are also using, not just cast iron", for what that's worth. I've been conversing with DRD Racing for a few days, and their Chinese-derived heads do indeed have large cooling passages. Given the overall quality of these castings, I'm going to ASSume that they wouldn't install crappy seats in an otherwise decent looking head, so I've ordered a pair, especially after seeing a photo that DRD provided today. I'll update y'all when I have a pair on the work bench and can get better photos, but the best I can do for a comparison at this point is the two photos below (or enclosed, I hope) of a Revmaster RM-049 and the DRD "OEM 43" head passages. Cooling trumps seat life, at this point in my life. More after I do some testing on these heads. This may prove to be a dumb idea, but somebody's got to try them out... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: RM-049.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 31869 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://list.krnet.org/mailman/private/krnet_list.krnet.org/attachments/20160623/8451549e/attachment.JPG> -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DRD_passages_small.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 72750 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://list.krnet.org/mailman/private/krnet_list.krnet.org/attachments/20160623/8451549e/attachment.jpg>
KR> VW Engines
> I will probably take the engine apart in the next couple months > and if Dan wants to examine it I would return it to him to check out >Joe Horton N357CJ - +++ Not before the Gathering, I hope, unless you suspect problems. Play safe Larry Flesner
KR> VW Engines
I have removed the Force one hub by making a specialized puller. You copy the hub bolt pattern into a 1/4"thick steel sheet. Remove the prop bolt and hub washer. Take a socket and install the bolt thru it into the hub, then add another socket so that it sticks out the front of the hub a 1/4". For the 2nd socket I used the one used to remove the prop hub bolt. Install the plate over the socket, adding 6 bolts thru to hub, tighten them up to about 50 foot pounds each, make sure to tighten them evenly. Then hit the plate in the center with a hammer, the hub will pop off and will be prevented from falling on the floor by the hub bolt. I have used this technique twice to remove the hub. Al Hawkins KR2 Port Coquitlam BC. Canada
KR> Axles?
On Jun 23, 2016, at 12:00 , krnet-request at list.krnet.org wrote: > Tommy Waymack wrote: > >> May need to upgrade to 3/4"axles and bearings. GPASC can help > > Mark Langford wrote: > > I second this motion. When I bought 891JF the wheels were splayed out > several degrees in both camber and toe-out. I'm not sure what kind of > steel those 5/8" axles were made of, but they were quite soft and easily > bent, and not up to the job of landing a 1000 pound plane, apparently. > Fortunately those went away when I went to Matcos, which use the 1.25" > aluminum axles that are virtually bulletproof (tested to 5.5 g's, at > least) > . Thanks, all. I made a template based on the O?Keefe axles (where GPASC redirects their axles, brakes, and bearings) and I have one concern? the O?Keefe axle plate is a 2.5? square, with mounting holes spaced at 1.75?. When I line that template up with my landing gear bracket, the two lower holes are completely off the bracket. Are we just drilling two new holes closer to the axle and grinding away the material that doesn?t contact anything? Thanks again. -Matt
KR> VW Engines
This should really have read " without a 5th bearing". I'm one of the guys that had a failure of the alum. cam gear at just over 250 hours without the 5th bearing. Ironically there was no 5th bearing readily available at the time and my plane was scheduled to have the prototype installed after the trip that it failed on. I try to remind everyone at every chance I get that the crankshaft is not the only point of failure that has an impact from the use of a fifth bearing. The cam gear is a slow developing failure that oil analysis if likely the only way to detect. But trust me on this one when the cam gear fails the engine gets every bit as quite as when it is sleeping in the hanger. ?? I currently have about 650 hours on the prototype BTA. I will probably take the engine apart in the next couple months and if Dan wants to examine it I would return it to him to check out (although we have not talked about it yet) So to anyone that will listen ... put the dang 5th bearing on the corvair. Roy's or Dan's doesn't matter to me.. just do it. Joe Horton N357CJ - Original Message - From: "Kayak Chris via KRnet" To: "KRnet" Cc: "Kayak Chris" Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2016 12:39:31 PM Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines how does a corvair engine get "run without a front bearing" and does this mean front main crank bearing, or some other bearing outboard of the case? ?Too bad the "soon to be officially mine" Corvair powered KR has taken to >> circulating the better part of the cam gear teeth throughout the engine? > > That sounds like an engine that was run without a front bearing for some > period of time. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options
KR> VW Engines
Chris Check out Roy Szarafinski's Fifth Bearing at roysgarage.com in Osseo, Michigan.Pete Klapp, building N729PK,Canton, Ohio > Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 17:44:43 + > To: krnet at list.krnet.org > Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines > From: krnet at list.krnet.org > CC: billjacobs386 at yahoo.com > > There are a couple of versions of an additional front mounted bearing. > It's called a 5th bearing, BTA, (better than air), etc. Go to flycorvair.net > or Dan Wesemans Fly with SPA. Or google Corvallis 5th bearing. Bill Jacobs > Daytona Beach, Fl. > > On Thursday, June 23, 2016 12:44 PM, Kayak Chris via KRnet list.krnet.org> wrote: > > > Well this set of comments would have me steer well clear of GPASC > engine. Even if they are reliable when properly mated and assembled, > it sounds like their crankshaft/hub solution is not very serviceable > down the line. > > After all these years how can this not been resolved? Presumably the > revmaster solution is more certain in service and serviceability. > > > Having built one of these several times, I'm not > > a fan of the keyway setup. The slots are in hub and crank are shallow, and > > the key is provided as a square key that you need to grind (or mill) down to > > something way thinner to fit between hub and crank. Getting a good fit with > > maximum material is trial and error. The key is only there to ensure the > > timing mark stays constant if the hub is removed. The taper is where the > > power is transferred. > > > > Crank and hub are also matched sets due to tolerances on the angle. The hub > > still needs to be lapped onto the crank, which is a two-hour chore by hand. > > > > The hub/bearing clearance is not consistent. The crank and bearing are sold > > as a set, and getting a new bearing for an existing crank is iffy. I've > > torqued the case to 8 ft-lbs and the crank still spun, then when I torqued > > it to 14 the crank seized. No amount of refitting cured that one. I'm not > > a great fan of the prop bolt...1/2" RH threads. Revmaster's is .75" LH > > threads, which can be torqued higher for a better connection. Otherwise, a > > simple engine backfire can unscrew the prop, despite proper torque and > > Loctite 620 on the bolt threads. > > > > If the crankshaft's oil seal leaks, the hub isn't going to come off without > > a 20 ton press, so tear the engine down to replace the seals, and hope the > > next seals work better. My luck with those seals has not been good either. > > That's the only place my engine has lost oil. > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options > > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options
KR> Revmaster R3000
On 06/22/2016 10:14 PM, Chris Prata via KRnet wrote: > wow, that R3000 is interesting! > >> > https://issuu.com/panzera/docs/issue_104.5 That issue is from 2012. What ever happened with the R3000? I don't see any mention of it on their website: http://revmasteraviation.com/ -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV - EAA Chapter 87 Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/ Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
KR> VW Engines
Well this set of comments would have me steer well clear of GPASC engine. Even if they are reliable when properly mated and assembled, it sounds like their crankshaft/hub solution is not very serviceable down the line. After all these years how can this not been resolved? Presumably the revmaster solution is more certain in service and serviceability. Having built one of these several times, I'm not > a fan of the keyway setup. The slots are in hub and crank are shallow, and > the key is provided as a square key that you need to grind (or mill) down to > something way thinner to fit between hub and crank. Getting a good fit with > maximum material is trial and error. The key is only there to ensure the > timing mark stays constant if the hub is removed. The taper is where the > power is transferred. > > Crank and hub are also matched sets due to tolerances on the angle. The hub > still needs to be lapped onto the crank, which is a two-hour chore by hand. > > The hub/bearing clearance is not consistent. The crank and bearing are sold > as a set, and getting a new bearing for an existing crank is iffy. I've > torqued the case to 8 ft-lbs and the crank still spun, then when I torqued > it to 14 the crank seized. No amount of refitting cured that one. I'm not > a great fan of the prop bolt...1/2" RH threads. Revmaster's is .75" LH > threads, which can be torqued higher for a better connection. Otherwise, a > simple engine backfire can unscrew the prop, despite proper torque and > Loctite 620 on the bolt threads. > > If the crankshaft's oil seal leaks, the hub isn't going to come off without > a 20 ton press, so tear the engine down to replace the seals, and hope the > next seals work better. My luck with those seals has not been good either. > That's the only place my engine has lost oil.
KR> VW Engines
how does a corvair engine get "run without a front bearing" and does this mean front main crank bearing, or some other bearing outboard of the case? Too bad the "soon to be officially mine" Corvair powered KR has taken to >> circulating the better part of the cam gear teeth throughout the engine? > > That sounds like an engine that was run without a front bearing for some > period of time.
KR> R-3000
wow, that R3000 is interesting! > https://issuu.com/panzera/docs/issue_104.5 Calm down Chris. That's way too much engine for your KR-1. They pull 700 HP out of that motor (for ten seconds at a time). I agree though . . . it's an impressive bit of kit. Affordable Wireless Plans Set up is easy. Get online in minutes. Starting at only $9.95 per month! www.netzero.net?refcd=nzmem0216
KR> Axles?
May need to upgrade to 3/4"axles and bearings.GPAS can help.Tommy W. On Wed, Jun 22, 2016 at 8:33 PM, mark jones via KRnet wrote: > Matt, > I ordered mine from Great Plains Aircraft (GPASC) back in 1998 for $54.95 > for the kit. Contact then and ask for the 5/8" Pre Welded Axle Kit. > Good Luck, > > Mark Jones (N886MJ) > Dunedin, FL > > > Mark Jones (N886MJ) > Dunedin, FL > flykr2s at gmail.com > www.flykr2s.com > > On Wed, Jun 22, 2016 at 6:23 PM, Matt Quimby via KRnet < > krnet at list.krnet.org > > wrote: > > > Hey all, I?m working on swapping my original retractable gear for Diehl > > gear, and I?m hoping to reuse the 5? Azusa wheels. Only problem is, I > can?t > > seem to find an axle for them. Is there a source for 5/8? axles that will > > mount to the Diehl lower bracket, or do I have to get the O?Brien axle > > setup? Thanks. > > > > -Matt > > ___ > > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to > change > > options > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options >
KR> Axles?
Tommy Waymack wrote: > May need to upgrade to 3/4"axles and bearings. GPASC can help I second this motion. When I bought 891JF the wheels were splayed out several degrees in both camber and toe-out. I'm not sure what kind of steel those 5/8" axles were made of, but they were quite soft and easily bent, and not up to the job of landing a 1000 pound plane, apparently. Fortunately those went away when I went to Matcos, which use the 1.25" aluminum axles that are virtually bulletproof (tested to 5.5 g's, at least). Mark Langford, Harvest, AL ML "at" N56ML.com www.N56ML.com
KR> Elevator control cables.
You are making a parallelogram. Therefore the opposing sides must be of equal length. Also the pivot point must be in the center of the fore and aft sides. In my plans, the stick end was not the same length as the end at the elevator. Be sure this is not the case with yours and if it is, adjust accordingly. As long as the above is true, the position of the elevator and stick is not relevant. Dan Heath -Original Message- I like to know if the two cables need to be the same lengths? Should the elevator be in the down position or up position to install the cables? Everyone is welcome to help with some instruction.
KR> Elevator control cables.
And keep in mind that there should be an adjustable turnbuckle in each of those two cables, set to a neutral position, for adjustment in stick location and to get the cable tension right. Mark Langford, Harvest, AL ML "at" N56ML.com www.N56ML.com
