Re: KR> KRnet Digest, Vol 9, Issue 36

2021-02-14 Thread Parley T Byington via KRnet
John,

I have a RayJay turbo on my Kr-2 (N54PB 1835 VW), sorry, I do NOT have a waste 
Gate on the setup.  The individual who built the engine, along with help from 
his Toyota auto engineers who worked for him, sized the turbo housing to 
eliminate the over boosting problem.

I keep an eye on the manifold pressure when applying full throttle and in the 
past, the problem was not being able to get enough boost to maintain sea level 
pressure. I did get more performance out of the turbo once I straightened out 
the air intake.  I eliminated most of the numerous bends and direction changes 
in the original air intake plumbing.

Sounds like I have the similar intake setup as you mentioned, ie the carburetor 
is BEFORE the turbo.


Sorry I am not able to give you any advice about a waste gate operation, let me 
know if I can provide any other advice to help you get your bird into the air.

Signed
A Vietnam era veteran
Parley Byington
N54PB Kr-2
Henderson Nevada


> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2021 21:22:04 -0800
> From: John Gotschall 
> To: KRnet 
> Subject: KR> I might be beating a dead horse but..
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> 
> Is there anyone out there besides me still running a rayjay turbo on a vw
> 2180 vw aero conversion?
> 
> (snip)
> BTW, my carb is before the compressor turbine so all my intake manifold
> pressure samples are highly flammable!
> 
> 
> thx
> 
> jg
> 
> (snip)
> --
> 


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Re: KR> KRnet Digest, Vol 9, Issue 17

2021-01-24 Thread Parley T Byington via KRnet
Mark;

I have had to remove my force one hub on my 1835 Turbo VW a couple of times in 
the past.

I built a puller out of .25 inch steal that had the prop hub bolt pattern on 
one end and a hole in the center large enough for the hydraulic jack ram to fit 
against the hub bolt.

I bolted the puller to the prop hub using all six prop holes and a half round 
backup steel plates to reinforce the force one prop hub and placed the 12 ton 
hydraulic jack in the middle of the steel puller box, that I had welded up, and 
then loosened the prop shaft center bolt several turns to give some clearance 
and then used the jack to press the hub off the crank shaft.

The hubs require a large amount of pressure to press them off and this set up 
does a nice job, be prepared for the hub to ALL OF A SUDDEN POP with a LOUD 
bang when it lets go!  Otherwise it will scare the devil out of you!

Hope this info helps!

Signed
Parley Byington
Vietnam era veteran
N54PB Kr2 1835 Turbo VW
Henderson Nevada


> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1.  Force One Hub removal from crankshaft? Oil drain line from
>  hub? (Mark Langford)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2021 10:16:24 -0600
> From: Mark Langford 
> To: KRnet 
> Subject: KR> Force One Hub removal from crankshaft? Oil drain line
>   from hub?
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> I'm going to have to replace the two seals on my Great Plains Force One 
> bearing, since the oil fog on my canopy has significantly worsened over 
> the last few flights.  


> I'm sure some folks 
> have done this before, and would appreciate some feedback or helpful tips.


> Has anybody else done this and can you provide details on the 
> process?
> 
> Thanks,
> -- 
> Mark Langford
> m...@n56ml.com
> http://www.n56ml.com
> Huntsville, AL
> 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
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> End of KRnet Digest, Vol 9, Issue 17
> 


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Re: KR> KR Landing in Tacoma Washington

2019-08-03 Thread Parley T Byington via KRnet
I noticed that it appears that his engine, indeed, was dead ie the prop was not 
turning in the video as the officer was facing the aircraft on approach.

Under the circumstances, I think the pilot did an excellent job avoiding a 
crash and the cars on the road.  Notice in the video how he avoided the street 
lights, and the on coming cars, the car stopped at the red light.  I noticed he 
was side slipping as he descended and prior to that he was more than likely 
trying to keep his airspeed to enable last minute maneuvering.  

I believe, that some may think this was a bad landing because the pilot forced 
the touch down and bounced as a result, however, I will remind everyone that 
this pilot was trying to get down and STOPPED before the intersection as well 
as avoid the obstacles including civilians in cars and sidewalks!

As a Kr2 pilot myself, and owning N54PB, which is a conventional kr2 with 
retracts and NO flaps or belly board, I think NO ONE can fault this pilot on 
his EMERGENCY landing!

I also think that the police officer did a GREAT job HELPING the pilot and 
protecting the public by his quick thinking and reaction to this EMERGENCY!  
This officer took the phrase/motto “To protect and serve” literally and did a 
great job, we need more of his kind.

Signed
Parley Byington
Vietnam era veteran
N54PB




> On Aug 3, 2019, at 11:58, Flesner via KRnet  wrote:
> 
> On 8/1/2019 8:16 PM, Patrick via KRnet wrote:
>> https://www.cnn.com/2019/08/01/us/washington-plane-landing-trnd/index.html 
>> 
>> N5391M - flown by David Acklam. Built by Gary Glasgow.  Saw the video on ABC 
>> news - not a pretty landing, but didn't appear to break anything! 
> 
> +
> 
> Hard to tell in the fuzzy video but it did not appear that the KR had a speed 
> brake or flaps.  Low flat approach.  Either might have been a positive factor 
> in this case for better speed control.
> 
> Glad it all turned out well for plane and pilot.
> 
> Larry Flesner
> 
> 
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Re: KR> Stick & Rudder

2019-04-23 Thread Parley T Byington via KRnet
For all those who do NOT believe in the Bernoulli theory, I would suggest you 
try this simple experiment:  take an ordinary teaspoon and dangle it from the 
handle so that the curved surface just comes in contact with a stream of 
running water and watch what happens.  Yes water is much more dense than air 
but the principle is the same with a airfoil.  The difference is that the 
median that it is traveling through, air versus water, is much thinner and 
therefor has to be moving faster to achieve the equivalent force.

Yes there is some lift created due to the angle of incidence and the resulting 
downward deflection (this is one of the causes of what is called “ ROUND 
EFFECT”) of air produced due to the forward movement of said airfoil through 
that median BUT the vast majority of the lift created is due to the 
differential in air pressure that is created due to Bernoulli’s theory.

Aircraft produce lift and thus fly due to displacing their weight in air just 
like a ship floats by displacing it’s weight in water.  A two thousand pound 
boat has to displace 2000 pounds of water in order to stay on top of the water 
and an aircraft has to displace the equivalent amount of air as it’s weight in 
order to maintain or achieve bouncy in the air.  As a boat moves through water 
it produces a wake which is nothing more than the water that was displaced by 
said boat returning to its natural state of equilibrium once the boat has 
passed.  An aircraft also produces a wake and it is evident by the wingtip 
vortices created at the wing tips as the air pressure flows from the high 
pressure side of the wing, the bottom, around the tip to the low pressure side 
of the wing, the top.

This explanation also explains why we feel a bump every time we fly through a 
cloud, the cloud is LESS dense than the air around it and thus can NOT support 
the same amount of weight given the same numbers of speed, weight, angle of 
attack and drag that the aircraft was using and in equilibrium prior to 
entering said cloud.

As far as thinking that flight simulators are not valid or are useless in 
training pilots, I beg to differ with that idea all together.  I personally 
have well over 4000 hours in flight simulators of various makes and models, 
mostly the F4 but also B-27, DC-9, DC-8, L-1011, B-757, T-38, and T-37 types.  
I know of many times that pilots were able to save both themselves and their 
aircraft due to the things they learned while practicing in simulators.  Most 
pilots that have the opportunity to fly these magnificent "Pretend aircraft", 
take the opportunity to try things that they would NOT dare try in the REAL 
aircraft and by doing so, learn what most likely will happen in that particular 
circumstance.

This is only my $.02 worth on this subject, but I do have a commercial license 
and have been flying since 1974. I have flown many different types of REAL 
aircraft as well as the full motion simulators that I mentioned, have built and 
flown my own KR-2 and helped others build a Fokker DR1 triplane, a Vari-Eze, a 
Vans RV 6, and a Rans S-7.

My comments are NOT meant to belittle, criticize, or in any way show how smart 
I am or how dumb anyone else is.  Otherwise my comments are NOT meant to OFFEND 
anyone, I enjoy reading all comments and ideas about flying from the vast 
number of fellow pilots out there, they are very educational and I have learned 
much from them, THANK YOU all for your contributions to this forum.

I hope this comment gives my fellow KR pilots some more information that will 
help or at least spark further thought on how our heavier than air creations 
actually take off, maintain and then come back down, SAFELY.

Parley Byington
A Vietnam era veteran
N54PB Kr-2
byington1...@embarqmail.com 
Henderson Nevada



> On Apr 23, 2019, at 05:46, Flesner via KRnet  wrote:
> 
> On 4/22/2019 8:34 PM, Mike Stirewalt via KRnet wrote:
>> I'm not questioning anything regarding your airmanship Larry so don't get
>> annoyed.
> 
> 
> 
> No offense taken but I think we've taken this discussion as far as we can on 
> the net.  We need to defer it to the Gathering campfire where we have "truth 
> serum" available to bring out the real scientific facts.
> 
> Larry Flesner
> 
> 
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Re: KR> Green Foam Board

2019-04-11 Thread Parley T Byington via KRnet
Ken;

Just cut a piece off and compare the outside color to the middle of the same 
piece, the sun would not have gotten to the inside of the foam.  I would NOT be 
afraid of using the foam because again it is NOT intended to be structural only 
to hold the shape as a mold for the fiberglass.

Parley

> On Apr 10, 2019, at 20:02, Jeff Scott via KRnet  wrote:
> 
> Ken,
> 
> If it has had a lot of UV exposure, you'll find one side of it to be badly 
> discolored.  If the color is consistent on both sides of the board, it should 
> be good.
> 
> -Jeff Scott
> 
> ---
> 
>> 
>> Parley,
>> 
>> Not knowing the original color I cannot make that judgement. When I got the
>> foam it was already 30 years old and now 50.
>> It is a kind of green with a brown tint. Never been in direct sun but has
>> had UV exposure I'm sure. Have read about people using other kinds of foam
>> but unsure about that.
>> I think it hardly likely I will use this foam. My ass is hanging on it. I
>> am not so cost conscious that I would compromise safety. However, If anyone
>> can vouch for the usability of 50 year old foam, I'm on it.
>> I am really surprised only one person replied to this. It seems an
>> important and timely question.
>> Ken
> 
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Re: KR> Green Foam Board

2019-04-08 Thread Parley T Byington via KRnet
That is normal for the green foam used on the KR-2, it sands super easy, it is 
brittle and it should be fine.  

The only thing that will cause it to deteriorate is if it has been left out in 
the direct sunlight, which will cause it to change color.

The strength is in the fiberglass, the foam just creates a form to shape the 
layups, it adds little to the structural strength overall.

Hope it helps.

Parley Byington
N54PB KR-2
Henderson Nevada


> On Apr 8, 2019, at 07:43, Ken Henderson via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> I also have the whole package of the foam. It dates to the 70's. My
> question is, is the foam still good to use after all those years? It is
> kind of brittle but maybe it was that way when new? Seems awfully easily
> dented as well. Even though it will be glassed over I was wondering if it
> will provide the necessary back-up for the glass?
> Thanks for your thoughts.
> Ken
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Re: KR> I have this green foam board...

2019-04-07 Thread Parley T Byington via KRnet
Virgil;

That foam is Urethane foam and was what most early KRs were made with.  

The wing ribs as well as the surface are formed from this easily sanded foam.  
One caution I would advise anyone who uses this type of foam is to be SURE AND 
WEAR a face mask to keep the sanding foam out of YOUR LUNGS!  Also this type of 
foam produces syanide (sic) gas when burned!

My wings and most of the molds used on my kr-2 was created using this type of 
foam.

Thanks
P. Byington
N54PB KR-2
Henderson Nevada
byington1...@embarqmail.ocm


> On Apr 7, 2019, at 05:35, Virgil via KRnet  wrote:
> 
> PVC Foam. Mid 70,s @ 0.25 par board foot, Virg
> 
> On 4/6/19 10:41 PM, Oscar Zuniga via KRnet wrote:
>> Netters; I salvaged a KR2 project that's about 20-25 years old that included 
>> all the "KR kit" foam board required to build the airplane.  It consists of 
>> a stack of boards that are something like 18" wide by maybe 8 ft long and in 
>> two thicknesses.  Color is sort of greenish and the stuff is somewhat 
>> delicate and lightweight.  I'm not kidding when I say that you can take a 
>> piece of this board and use it to sand down another piece of the board.  I 
>> have no idea what it is or if it's worth hanging onto.  Anybody know what it 
>> is?
>> 
>> Oscar Zuniga
>> Medford, OR
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Re: KR> airport selection

2019-02-22 Thread Parley T Byington via KRnet
I would NOT use a short narrow strip for my first flight in the KR-2.  

First: this is a NEW aircraft and possibly an inexperienced KR pilot couple 
those two factors with the good possibilities of something mechanically going 
wrong and you are setting yourself up for a disaster which may cost you your 
life.

Second: You will have enough to worry about learning the characteristics of a 
new airplane that you are not familiar with without having to worry about take 
off distance, or keeping everything going perfectly straight down the short 
runway.

Third: Why take the added risk of a marginal runway length and width when there 
are many other better suited test areas to use?  Don’t know what part of the 
country you are located in but here in southern Nevada, there are plenty of dry 
lakes where testing new aircraft is much safer and less chance of damaging 
private property in the area ie other aircraft, cars, homes, corn fields etc.

Fourth: you may have rigging problems, trim problems, engine problems, 
propeller engine mismatch problems, gear alignment problems, cross winds, 
density altitude etc.  These things can all come together VERY RAPIDLY and 
UNDETECTABLY (until the last minute) while you are gaining speed and loosing 
runway length, in other words, running out of ideas, altitude/airspeed and 
options all at the same time because of a short narrow runway!

This is just my $.02 worth your ideas/experience level may differ!

Signed
A Vietnam era veteran
owner of KR-2 N54PB
Parley Byington

> On Feb 22, 2019, at 13:15, Sid Wood via KRnet  wrote:
> 
> Stef
> On my first flight landing I managed to use most of the paved 4200 foot 
> runway at K2W6 and bend the nose strut; approach to fast.  Second flight 
> landing ran off the right side due to failed left brake.  Third flight 
> landing ran off the end of the runway; touched down long.  Fourth flight 
> landing stalled on the runway and ran off left side; damaged the left wheel 
> brake bleeder valve scrapping on the edge of the pavement.
> Yes, stuff happens and when it does, extra runway length and width can most 
> certainly help.  Judicious use of flaps or belly board also helps on these 
> slippery little airplanes.
> 
> Hopefully, your results may vary.
> 
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> California, MD, USA
> ---
> Hi,
> I am in the stage to look for an airport.
> My original plan was to go for an big asphalt runway airfield for the test 
> period, when everything is oke and the first flights are don to move to a 
> smaller a grass airport.
> Now I am busy to arrange a hanger space but the prices are that high, I can't 
> afford this luxury.
> What do you think to do the test fase on a grass strip? The dimensions are 
> 1000x30 meter.
> 
> Anyone experience?
> 
> Stef
> 
> Steph and his dad are building the KR-2S see 
> http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2 http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
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Re: KR> Got motre training done yesterday

2019-01-20 Thread Parley T Byington via KRnet
Craig;

I noticed the same thing, I am wondering if most KR-s have this problem, I know 
mine did.  I just finished modifying mine hopefully to solve the out of center 
ball, by moving the vertical stabilizer leading edge spar slightly to the 
starboard side.  Before taking this modification on, I had installed a spring 
to the port side rudder cable and attached it to a hand crank ( I bought a 
camper window opening crank assembly ) which was mounted on the port side of 
the cockpit behind the side mounted throttle/mixture/carb heat controls.

This rudder trim worked well but I didn’t like the thoughts of my rudder 
assembly being out of trim and since I have had my bird down for other 
modifications, including attempts to take some weight off it, I thought I may 
as well do all the little mods I had been thinking about.

Other KR owners situation may be different, mine is a plans built original with 
retracts and an 1835 turbo charged VW with full electric including a geared 
starter.

Thanks
Parley Byington
Henderson Nevada
byington1...@embarqmail.com



> On Jan 20, 2019, at 09:28, Oscar Zuniga via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> Craig; don't mind me... I'm just watching the videos and having fun, and it's 
> easy for us in the peanut gallery to toss peanut shells ;o)  However, is it 
> just me, or maybe the angle of the camera, or do you have a heavy foot on one 
> side?  Almost everywhere and in all flight regimes in the 15 minutes and 5 
> circuits that you did in the video, the ball in the slip-skid indicator is 
> off to the left.  "Step on the ball" with a little left rudder to center it 
> and see what that does.
> 
> Oscar Zuniga
> Medford, OR
> Air Camper NX41CC, A75 power
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Re: KR> Fixed lending gear.

2019-01-14 Thread Parley T Byington via KRnet
I changed out the 3/4 inch spring bar and installed a 1 inch spring bar on my 
kr2 after hearing about the hard landings putting the wheels up through the top 
of the wings on some other KRs with retracts.

My kr2 is actually a 1.5 bird since I made it a single seat version due to the 
gross weight being 1070# that includes me and 18.8 gallons of fuel.

Keep in mind my bird has a VW 1835 with an A-Jay turbo charger, electrical 
system, transponder and geared starter motor.

I also modified the gear lock system to use a 1/2 inch locking pin through a 
semi circle arch of steel that mounts to the center section hinge and the 
floor.  This pin is spring loaded to lock in place in the up and down position 
and is retracted via a jet ski steering cable and has an emergency hand hold to 
operate if the cable breaks.

I have not flown my bird for almost 19 years due to health problems (diabetes) 
which I am getting over having to use insulin and so should be able to pass my 
physical here shortly.  

I have been modifying several things on the plane getting it ready to fly 
again.  I am currently building an aluminum seat and I changed the position of 
the vertical stabilizer spar to eliminate the need for rudder trim, I was 
having to hold some left rudder to center the ball prior to this.  I also 
relocated the battery to the firewall, it was behind the seat before, and I 
moved the oil cooler from the top of the engine to the bottom and gave it its 
own NACA scoop for cooling air.

When I get everything back together and ready to fly I am hoping that I was 
able to lower the empty weight some and have a more forward CG for better 
control of pitch sensitivity.  I have approximately 250 hours on my bird so far 
and it is a lot of fun to fly.

I have flown it to Edwards AFB for their airshow a number of years ago and also 
to Wendover Nevada and several local airshows here in the west.

Oh, one other modification I am thinking about doing is to have the one inch 
spring bar machined down so that it tappers on the outer ends to reduce some of 
the weight without compromising the stiffness to much.

I also designed my own fuel flow gauge which uses no moving parts, it is a 
capacitive type fuel gauge and is very accurate, it uses a capacitive baffle 
plate inside the fiberglass tank and is accurate within 1/2 gallon in all 
attitudes.

Hope this information helps.

Parley Byington
N54PB KR-2 (1.5)
Henderson Nevada
byington1...@embarqmail.com



> On Jan 14, 2019, at 16:28, Flesner via KRnet  wrote:
> 
> On 1/14/2019 1:11 PM, Kevin Stolhammer via KRnet wrote:
>> That may
>> make it worth the expense.Certainly you work have to get some super
>> performance increase to make it cost effective.
> 
> +
> 
> If you're factoring in cost, don't forget to account for the cost of a $400 
> propeller and engine tear down the first time the gear collapses.  The 
> retracts on the KR were quite a novel idea when Ken build his 480 pound KR2 
> but no one builds 480 pound KR's now days and haven't done so for the last 30 
> years.  650 pounds is more representative of a "light" KR today with many 
> coming in at 700+ and several most recent I'm aware of are 800+.  If a hard 
> landing in a 500 pound KR will put the gear bar through the top wing surface 
> imagine what a 2 G landing in an 800 pounder would do.  (can you say "instant 
> wing spoilers") If you're building a "light" KR and want to go retract there 
> is no reason not to.  Just be aware of the short comings of the original 
> retracts and try to eliminate any of their problems, as several builders have 
> attempted to do.  Some have tried modified lock downs, some have shortened 
> the bar to stiffen it, etc.,etc., ...
> 
> Like I've said many times, go with what you're comfortable with and accept 
> the consequences.
> 
> Larry Flesner  (29 years of KR exposure - 15 years flying one)
> 
> 
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Re: KR> dashboard question

2018-10-04 Thread Parley T Byington via KRnet
My canopy is hinged on the front edge of the canopy and the fuel tank.  I used 
a piano hinge and then made my canopy frame come right down on top of the 
instrument panel.  

The canopy is supported by a gas cylinder on the right side of the fuselage.  
The canopy is simple to remove by pulling the hinge wire out and lifting off 
the canopy.

Hope it helps.

Parley Byington
N54PB Kr-2 (really a 1-1/2) single seat.



> On Oct 4, 2018, at 09:04, John via KRnet  wrote:
> 
> Had’nt thought of that!
> 
> John’s iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 4, 2018, at 9:42 AM, brendan palmer via KRnet  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Do you have a picture of area that you are trying to fill?
>> 
>> Based on your description I am imagining that you have a front hinged
>> canopy with a two arm bracket system where the pivot point is under the
>> front deck.
>> The gap that I am also imagining you to try to fill is the area between the
>> instrument pannel and where the canopy contacts the front deck.
>> 
>> I would think a shelf in this area could be useful. However I would not
>> want to have it attached to the canopy as any item left on the shelf would
>> get flipped forward and possibly scratch the canopy from the inside.
>> 
>> Good luck!
>> 
>>> On Thu, Oct 4, 2018, 10:48 AM jeb via KRnet  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Trying to cover the gap above instrument panel.
>>> With the hinges for the canopy, I think I'll attempt
>>> to make the 'shelf' into the canopy rather than make a
>>> removable thing wit hinge cutouts.
>>> 
>>> Anybody else done it that way?
>>> Wish I'd thought about it back when I was building
>>> canopy frame and putting in the plexiglass.
>>> 
>>> Suggestions?
>>> 
>>> 
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> 
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Re: KR> aileron balancing

2017-12-15 Thread Parley T Byington via KRnet
Dec.15,2017
Subject: Lead aileron castings

To whom it may concern;

I calculated the size/weight needed then made a mold using plaster paris of 
that calculation.

I heated the mold in the oven to prevent steam explosions prior to pouring the 
liquified lead into the mold.

Once the mold was heated to 450 degrees I poured the melted lead (using proper 
face shield, gloves, and full body heavy clothing to cover all exposed skin 
surfaces) into the mold and let cool.  I then shaved the lead weights using a 
sure file to get the weight to the exact amount needed to counter the aileron 
and perfectly balance it.

Be very careful when pouring molten lead into plaster molds that the mold has 
been sufficiently heated so that all water is gone or it WILL EXPODE in your 
face throwing molten lead in all directions !

Another alternative is to use heavy paper/cardboard to form a square mold to 
pour the molten lead into, the sides can be taped together using ordinary 
masking tape, several layers, without the tape burning through until the lead 
solidifies.  I have used both types of molds.

Hope this is of some help

Signed A Vietnam veteran
Parley Byington
Kr-2 N54PB
byington1...@embarqmail.com
Henderson Nevada

On Dec 15, 2017, at 10:08, jeb via KRnet  wrote:

> I'm not satisfied with the lead weights I cast oh so many years ago.
> So, polling the list - what did you use to make the mold?
> 
> 
> 
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Re: KR> 4" Prop extension for my KR2S with a Revmaster 2100D engine

2017-10-26 Thread Parley T Byington via KRnet
Date: Wednesday; Oct.25,2017
Subject: Prop extension

Luis;

I have a prop extension.  Mine measures 4.25 inches from flange face to prop 
side but I am not sure it will fit a RevMaster hub.  I understand that there 
are two different bolt patterns used on VW engines and I think that the 
Revmaster uses an SAE type 1 and mine is the other type.

Let me know which one your engine uses and maybe we can see if this one will 
work for you!

PS I won’t be able to respond until Monday, I am going out of town early 
Thursday.

Signed
Parley Byington
byington1...@embarqmail.com


On Oct 25, 2017, at 12:01, Luis Claudio via KRnet  wrote:

> Looking for a used prop extension. 
> Thanks
> Luis 
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Re: KR> fiber glassed fuselage

2017-03-10 Thread Parley T Byington via KRnet
Robert;

Yes, there have been a lot of Krs that have had fiberglass covered over the 
fuselage.  Mine, N54PB is one of them, I covered mine so as to aid in the 
finish paint as well as to seal and protect the wood.  Yes, it does add some 
weight but my plane flies just fine and I made it into a KR2 SINGLE place to 
keep the gross weight down.

Hope this gives you some ideas and confidence in the Kr.  

Two things that I will mention here in case anyone is building the KR with the 
original retract system; 

1.  the planes call for AN 3 bolts to be used to attach the gear legs to the 
spring bar…DO NOT use AN 3 bolts, they are TO SMALL, use AN 5 in their place.  

2. The original gear locks are a accident waiting to happen, redesign those 
locks with a positive shear bolt arrangement to ensure their locking and not 
coming unlocked during landing. 

3. Most krs are heavier than the plans call for, it is hard to go anywhere 
legally with out radios and electrical systems, I suggest installing a heavier 
landing gear spring bar if your weight is normally above the published gross 
weight of 900#. 

Don’t ask me how I know the importance of these two flaws in the original Rand 
Robinson design.

The Kr is a very docile tail dragger on the ground, the original design is very 
pitch sensitive in the air, I lengthened the stick to help prevent PIO, pilot 
induced oscillations.  My suggestions for improving the original design is to 
lengthen the fuselage by 18” to 24”, increase the area of the ailerons and keep 
it as light as possible.

I had a total of 1 hour of logged tail dragger time when I flew my bird the 
first time.  I had many other hours in various tail draggers as a co-pilot 
passenger but not much time in actual landings.  The Kr with its wide landing 
gear is very easy to taxi and has very little tendency to ground loop.

I have over 4000 hours of jet simulator, the real ones, and was very glad that 
most of those simulator hours were in F4-D and E models when I first flew 
N54PB, I also had a large dry lake to fly off from for the first test flight.  
The F4 simulator and aircraft are quit pitch sensitive also and my experience 
in them helped me quickly overcome the tendency to over control on the first 
and latter flights of my KR-2.

Thanks
Parley Byington
N54PB Kr-2
byington1...@embarqmail.com
Henderson Nevada.

On Mar 9, 2017, at 16:20, Robert Russell via KRnet  wrote:

> I am wondering if there have been any fuselages built that have the plywood 
> as well as fiber glass over the top of it? 
> I k. now that would add weight but am curious about strength added as well. 
> I tried to find info in the archives but no luck. 
> Thanks 
> Bob 
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Re: KR> books

2017-03-03 Thread Parley T Byington via KRnet
Bob R.

Why do all of us on the KRnet need to know this?  Please do not use up our 
valuable time and the bandwidth/memory of this net by posting these useless 
comments.  Thank you.


On Mar 2, 2017, at 16:46, Robert Russell via KRnet  wrote:

> I received my 3 Tony Bingelis books today .
> Happy for them to arrive so quickly. 
> Bob R
> 
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Re: KR> Melting lead

2017-01-28 Thread Parley T Byington via KRnet
Date: Saturday, Jan.28,2017
Subject: Melting lead and safety precautions

When making my counter weights, I built some molds out of plaster of Paris to 
shape  then used the female mold to pour melted lead into.  

ONE VERY IMPORTANT POINT HERE; that is heat the mold (plaster) in the oven to a 
high temperature to ensure there is NO water left in the plaster PRIOR to 
pouring molten lead in it.  FAILURE to do this will result in an explosion of 
molten lead that will cover everything with in a 10 ft radius INCLUDING the 
person pouring the lead!  ALWAYS WEAR PROTECTIVE CLOTHING, GLOVES, EYE, FACE, 
ARM, AND BODY PROTECTION.

Molds can also be made from cardboard and masking tape, yes some of the tape 
and cardboard will burn but will not leak before the lead solidifies and is 
easily removed.

Thanks
Parley Byington 
N54PB Kr-2 Original with retracts
Henderson Nv. 89015
byington1...@embarqmail.com


On Jan 28, 2017, at 12:10, Mike T via KRnet  wrote:

> I have melted lead many times on the stove and I think all my brain cells
> remain intact. You're melting it, not boiling it, so the amount getting
> into the air is insignificant.  Obviously don't ever use the pot again for
> food.  A tin can sounds like a good idea.


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