KR>KR Plans

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Dave, Rand-Robinson is impossible(almost) to get in
touch with but If you send the money for the plans
they will send them to you in a week or two. Rick
Wilson.
--- rhartwi...@juno.com wrote:
> Dave,
> I ordered KR2S plans by mail from Rand-Robinson last
> month.  They arrived
> two weeks later.  You can get the prices and snail
> mail address from
> their website:  http://www.fly-kr.com/
> 
> >does anyone have a spare set of plans and manual
> they want to sell (in
> good shape) trying
> >to get a hold of rand is
>
impossible___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to
> krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at
http://www.krnet.org/info.html


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 rwdw2...@yahoo.comRickey Wilson, Haleyville, Alabama   
   




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KR>Sale of my KR2

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Hi all, I regret to say that I had to sell my KR2.
Sometimes other obligations have to come first. I am
in the process of finishing building my house and
unfortunately I had to sell it for that. I plan to buy
another one in the not too distant future though. I
enjoy reading and occasionally adding a suggestion or
two. Thanks for all the help everyone has given me
here on the net. Sitting back for a while, Rick Wilson.

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KR>test

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
this is only a test.

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KR>Passion, I think we all can relate to this.

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Richard, You are not alone, Coming up with $20,000
would be almost impossible for me too. Passion is the
only reason a lot of airplanes ever get completed. You
are a big step ahead of lots of us by just holding a
pilots license. I have managed to get my hands on a
nearly completed KR2,I may be lucky in one respect. If
I don't have to sell it my hangar rent is only 40.00 a
month when I do get it to the airport. Good luck, Rick
Wilson.
--- RICHARD G ALPS <richarda...@msn.com> wrote:
> Dear Norm,
> I know that your question was not aimed at me, but
> since it was presented to the whole KR Net, I choose
> to take this opportunity to publicly supply my
> answer:
> 
> 
>I
> > .
> 
> 
> I love you all.  I hope to see you at The Gathering
> 2004.
> 
> Richard G. Alps
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: Norm Seel 
>   To: Ron Eason ; KRnet 
>   Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 3:47 PM
>   Subject: Re: KR>Passion, I think we all can relate
> to this.
> 
> 
>  >   > to UNSUBSCRIBE from KRnet, send a message to
> krnet-le...@mylist.net
>   > please see other KRnet info at
> http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>   >
> 
> 
>   ___
>   to UNSUBSCRIBE from KRnet, send a message to
> krnet-le...@mylist.net
>   please see other KRnet info at
> http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> ___
> to UNSUBSCRIBE from KRnet, send a message to
> krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at
http://www.krnet.org/info.html


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KR>KR2 for sale

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Hi, I hate to do it but I'm putting my KR2 up for
sale. I'm in the middle of building a new house and I
could use the money. It has a Continental 0200A that
is fully certified. I have all logs for it since new.
The aircraft has VFR instruments and standard engine
guages. I have a set of Dheil fiberglass main gear
legs I will let go with it. It needs some cosmetic
work here and there. There are some pictures at: 
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/rlwno7/index.htmlIt
looks better now than in the pictures. The instrument
panel has been refinished and I've put an almost new
wood prop on it since then. I will sell it for the
value of the firewall forward. $7000.00.   Thanks,
Rick Wilson.

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KR>Post of this week

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Dan, That's a great looking panel, nice job. How far
is it from the bottom of your panel to the floor? You
seem to have more clearance for your knees than I do
in mine. I'm 5'7" and I miss the bottom of my panel
about an inch or so. Rick Wilson.
--- Dan Heath <da...@alltel.net> wrote:
> Dare to click on this link and you will see how
> really proud, Jerry and I
> are, of our instrument panel.  Even if we are
> missing two hole stuffers.
> Featured, is the Turn and Bank that we just
> purchased from Brian Kraut. 
> Thanks Brian, it fits OK and looks good to.
> 
> Jerry and I did sit in it together today, to see if
> we would fit.  Well, we
> fit, but it is tight and you better be friends.
> 
> Also shown, is a pic of how the finishing of the
> outside of the canopy is
> coming.  I still have a lot of work to do.
> 
>
http://kr-builder.org/InstrumentsWiring/newPics/Thumbnails.html
> 
> This is also listed under Post Of The Week. 
>  
> See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on
> the pics
>  
> Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
>  
> da...@kr-builder.org
>  
> See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering
>  
> See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org
>  ___
> to UNSUBSCRIBE from KRnet, send a message to
> krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>Airworthiness certificate question

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Hi all, This question is for anyone who has his
airworthiness certificate for an experimental
aircraft. My airworthiness certificate says" Special
Airworthiness Certificate" on it. Do all experimental
airworthiness certificates say "Special" on them or is
this something pertaining to my aircraft? Thanks in
advance, Rick Wilson.

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KR>Window under the passenger seat

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Serge, You may want to consider a camera mount and
make a sliding window that would be opened by sliding
to one side or the other. Rick Wilson.
--- "Serge F. Vidal"
<serge.vi...@ate-international.com> wrote:
> This one is for structure experts.
> 
> I have been dreaming for a while of cutting a window
> (a clear hatch, if you
> prefer) under the passenger seat. This would be a
> round window, about 12 cm
> (say 6 inches) in diameter. I would use it when I
> fly solo, with the
> passenger seat bottom cushion removed, as a camera
> window, to take pictures
> (verticall, or at a deep angle). Ideally, it could
> open, so that I can get a
> camera lens directly through it.
> 
> Questions:
> 
> - Is it feasible without weakening the structure?
> - If yes, is 12cm / 6 inches diameter OK?
> - How much must I reinforce (how thick must the
> reinforcement flange be?)
> - How thick is the floor at that place?
> - Any idea for the opening mechanism?
> 
> Serge Vidal
> KR2 ZS-WEC
> Tunis, Tunisia
> 
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>Ballast weight with heavier engines

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Hi all, I am just curious as to whether any of you
guys flying the standard KR2 with 0200's have had to
add any weight to the tail to get your cg to work out?
The man I bought mine from added 17 lbs to the
tail.I'm just wondering if I can rearrange some things
and get rid of that. My battery is mounted just aft of
the seatback. It would be a long run for the cables
but I think if I move the battery to the tail I might
can lose the ballast weight. Thanks, Rick Wilson.

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KR>Control tubes

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Sidney, My KR2 is set up with a center stick and
push-pull tube going to the aft side of the rear spar
and cables from there to the elevator. It has aluminum
push-pull tubes to the ailerons, works very well. I'll
try and get some pictures in the next few days if
anyone would like to see them. Rick Wilson.
--- "Wood, Sidney M." <smw...@titan.com> wrote:
> Steve,
> I put a complete cable control system in my KR-2 per
> the RR plans.  I did not like the plain bolt hinges
> at the aft spar bell cranks, so I put in aeliron
> bearing hinges.  The right-angle brackets at the aft
> and forward spars were sort of wimpy, but were okay
> for the 40 lb-tension cable system.  RR offered a
> push rod for the elevator connection under the seat;
> I put that in and it was off to the races.  I took
> out all the cables, pulleys and attach brackets.  I
> bent 6061 sheet to form triangular attach brackets,
> made 90-degree bell cranks with aeliron bearings for
> the forward spar, a counter-weight bell crank idler
> to balance the elevator, and six additional control
> tubes.  I retained the original center control stick
> and rudder cables.  N6242 shed 6 lbs in the process,
> mostly substituting aluminum for five brass
> turnbuckles, safety wire, associated hardware plus
> steel cables. 
> I don't have a website to show you pictures, but I
> would be glad to discuss it off-line.  Don't have
> any flight results yet, maybe in a year or so.  Were
> I to do that again, I would put the forward spar
> bellcranks inboard under the seat and run the
> control tube diagonally through the stub wing to the
> aft spar bellcrank mounted on the front of the aft
> spar.  The 90-degree bellcranks would need
> modification to account for the diagonal control
> tube angle through the stub wing.
> Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
> sidney.w...@titan.com
>  
> 
>   -Original Message- 
>   Any one got a web page out there on a design of
> using tubes instead of the cable system?
>   
>   Steve McGee
>   Endeavor Wi. USA
>   Building a KR2S widened.
>   lmc...@maqs.net
>   
>   
>   ___
>   see KRnet list details at
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> <http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html> 
>   
> 
> 

> ATTACHMENT part 2 application/ms-tnef
name=winmail.dat
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> 


=
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KR>Control tubes

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Sid, I'll do my best to explain how mine is set up.
I'll get some pictures in a few days and you will see
it's really quite simple. First, the stick is mounted
through a cutout slot in the top and bottom of a piece
of 2-1/8" aluminum round tubing-1/8" wall thickness.
The slot has flat aluminum pieces welded in the sides
of the slot on the bottom side, with flat pieces
welded on the top side of the tube with tabs that
stick up about 1/2" above the top surface of the tube.
These tabs are drilled for a pin with brass bushings.
The stick is pinned through these tabs so it can pivot
fore and aft. The stick extends through the slot in
the bottom of the tube and slides against the flat
plates on the sides. When the stick is rotated side to
side, it rotates the large tube side to side also. The
stick is mounted approximately 1" back from the front
end of the tube. There is a smaller piece of tubing
welded to a flat plate and bolted through the front
spar.The larger tube is slid over the end of the
smaller one and rotates around it. The push-pull tube
for the elevator is pinned to a fork at the control
stick and fits inside the large tube. At the aft end
of the large aluminum tube There is an aluminum plate
with a hole in the center  large enough to allow the
push -pull tube to slide through it. The push-pull
tube goes to a bellcrank mounted just behind the rear
spar, where the elevator cables are attached. The flat
plate that is welded to the rear of the large tube has
control tabs that are at the top and bottom. The
aileron push-pull tubes are attached to the tabs with
rod ends and go to the aileron bellcranks in the stub
wings.There is a collar welded around the large
aluminum tube in front of the rear spar, Before the
aluminum plate was welded on, There was a piece of
tubing welded to another flat plate and holes drilled
in the flat plate to bolt through the rear spar from
the back side,This was slid over the larger tube
before the last plate was welded on to the rear of the
tube. You simply bolt the first flat plate on the aft
side of the front spar, Then slide the big tube
through the rear spar and slip it over the tube at the
front spar. The flat plate at the aft side of the rear
spar is then bolted to the rear spar and the aluminum
tube is captured between them. It rotates side to side
and the stick pivots fore and aft. I hope you
understand all this.I know it sounds complicated but
when you see the picture you can see how simple it
really is. Rick Wilson.
--- "Wood, Sidney M." <smw...@titan.com> wrote:
> Rick,
> Do you use a bell crank attached to the aft spar? 
> How do you keep the elevator movement at the stick
> from coupling to the ailerons?
> Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD
> sidney.w...@titan.com
> 
>   -Original Message- 
>   From: Rick Wilson [mailto:rwdw2...@yahoo.com] 
>   Sent: Mon 1/5/2004 12:09 PM 
>   To: KRnet 
>   Cc: 
>   Subject: RE: KR>Control tubes
>   
>   
> 
>   Sidney, My KR2... It has aluminum
>   push-pull tubes to the ailerons, works very well.
> I'll
>   try and get some pictures in the next few days if
>   anyone would like to see them. Rick Wilson.
>   --- "Wood, Sidney M." <smw...@titan.com> wrote:
>   > Steve,
>   > > >  The 90-degree bellcranks would need
>   > modification to account for the diagonal control
>   > tube angle through the stub wing.
>   > Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
>   > sidney.w...@titan.com
>   > 
>   >
>   >   -Original Message-
>   >   Any one got a web page out there on a
> design of
>   > using tubes instead of the cable system?
>   >      
>   >   Steve McGee
>   >   Endeavor Wi. USA
>   >   Building a KR2S widened.
>   >   lmc...@maqs.net
>   > http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
>   >
>   Rick Wilson, Haleyville, Alabama KR2-0200A -99%
> rwdw2...@yahoo.com
>   
>   
>   
> 
> 

> ATTACHMENT part 2 application/ms-tnef
name=winmail.dat
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> 


=
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KR>Canopy release and latches.

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Hi Dana, I enjoy reading your posts. I've learned a
lot from reading what you have to say. I'm glad you
got the airplane you wanted and wish you the best of
luck with it. Rick Wilson. ps. what is the empty
weight of your piece of carbon fiber and foam?
--- Dana Overall <bo12...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> By the time I went to bed last night I had sent out
> 4 private emails showing 
> different URLs for non KR canopy release and latch
> URLs.  This morning I had 
> an additional 17 in my in box.  For brevity sake I
> am posting what I sent to 
> everyone previously.
> 
> These are the only pics I can send, I don't have a
> KR in my garage anymore 
> to run out and measure the canopy height, shoulder
> width or firewall 
> support.  This is all I have now.  As this cut and
> paste from the single 
> private email stated:
> 
> "The post below has nothing to do with the KR;
> please stop the - I've
> switched to Aluminum, I got one, how come you can't
> come and join me and the
> rest of the RV crowd."
> 
> That statement could not be any furthur from
> reality.  The only reason I 
> post the URLs listed below is to offer an idea for
> the KR builder, not as 
> the above statement indicates.  I know when I was
> building my KR, I looked 
> at airplanes of all types trying to get ideas. 
> Where in world do you think 
> the Dr. Dean hinge idea came from??  You wouldn't
> believe the number of 
> airplanes Langford and I walked up to at SNF one
> year snapping pics of the 
> elevator hinges.  This is not posted as a "this is
> the way to do it" or 
> "this is the best way" or "if you don't do it this
> way it will fall out of 
> the sky".  If anyone thinks this is inappropriate
> let me know.  Every single 
> private email I got supported my posting.  If it
> bothers you let me know, 
> I'll restrict my postings to running out and taking
> pictures of what I left 
> of my KR, which would be a piece of carbon fiber and
> some foam.  I think I 
> could reply to one or two posts a year. When I
> posted pics of the pushrod 
> assembly with part numbers it was so a builder who
> was installing pushrods 
> could have an easy outlet to purchase and
> manufacture his assembly.  With 
> that said, remember Fun Friday is for anything
> aviation:-)  I didn't reply 
> to what Dan had on his website about the handy dandy
> deburring tool because 
> I thought it might be too much "metal".  Heck, I got
> three deburring tools 
> from Avery and know just what he wants including
> part numbers.  Go with the 
> one that fits in an electric screwdriverthe hand
> crank one is known as 
> the "carpel tool".   If you find the following
> offensive, well that's all I 
> got.  I try and restrict my postings to what would
> work on the KR not as 
> that absurd quote states.  As someone once told me,
> "a turtle doesn't get 
> anywhere unless he sticks his head out of his
> shell".  Here's the 
> head.take a swing.float like a
> butterflyyea, 
> right:-)  Sorry for the rant but some people can't
> see help even if the 
> signs painted red and stuck in their front yard.
> 
> The URL shows the release handle.  You would attach
> a rod internally to 
> activate whatever latching mechanism you would
> choose.  The pics at the 
> bottom are of mine showing the latching handle and
> how it rotates.
> 
> Take a look here http://rvproject.com/20030220.html 
> It is about 1/2 way 
> down the page.  It shows the material used and how
> you need to cut it to 
> make it work on a KR.  Click Next at the bottom of
> the page for a couple 
> additional pics.  This is the near flush outside
> release mechanism.  You can 
> drill it, place a lock on it for when you are at
> Oshkosh, or leave it 
> unlocked so people won't break your canopy to steal
> something.  This is on 
> the tipper.  All alum is 1/8".  If you need some
> explaining of how this 
> works, drop me a line.
> 
> The following pictures show the internal locking
> handle for a slider.
> 
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/latch1.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/latch2.jpg
> 
> Yes, this is my Imron black.
> 
> Notice the pivot point of the latch is aft of the
> centerline of the handle.  
> When you pivot it to the point where it hits the
> peg, it levers itself and 
> snugs the canopy.  Really neat and cheap install for
> both methods.  Two 
> small pegs drop in on the aft part of the frame into
> blocks that secure the 
> aft corners.  The latch simply protrudes through the
> canopy to a very small 
> external handle.
> 
> Truly KIS

KR>my KR weight

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Mark, I had a Kitfox with a 582 Rotax and it would
pull the 8-10 degree slope in front of my house pretty
good. The neighbors all thought I was nuts but who
cares? Rick Wilson.
--- Mark Langford <n5...@hiwaay.net> wrote:
> Well, you knew it wouldn't take me long.   I've
> reweighed my plane, although
> I had to weigh a lot of it separate, since it's sort
> of "opened up" right
> now.Everything altogether (including engine oil)
> is going to be 713
> pounds, and I figure I still have about 7 pounds of
> paint to go, so I'll bet
> it'll be about 730 pounds.  That'll give me a power
> to weight ratio of about
> 6.7:1 with half fuel, so I think I'll be just fine
> in the climb department!
> Wings are not attached so I couldn't nail down the
> CG, but I think I'm still
> on track to be just right there too, even though the
> battery is located on
> the aft side of the firewall.
> 
> Right now I'm concentrating on getting the engine
> wired, plumbed, and ready
> to spin a prop.  I'd like to get start testing and
> tuning the engine while
> it's still cold outside.  Besides, if I had
> something that not only LOOKED
> like an airplane, but SOUNDED like one too, I'd be a
> lot more fired up than
> I am now, which is faced which a bunch of subsystems
> that don't quite add up
> to an airplane.  I can't wait to see if I can climb
> the 12 degree slope out
> in front of my house...
> 
> Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL
> N56ML "at"  hiwaay.net
> see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>Deihl landing gear brackets

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Hi all, If anyone has a set of brackets for the Deihl
landing gear that you don't need, I'd like to buy a
set. (the ones that bolt the leg to the spar or the
bottom brackets either). Thanks, Rick Wilson.

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KR>Azusa brakes for sale on barnstormers

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Hi All, I just thought someone might be interested in
this. There is a new set of mechanical brakes for
azusa 5" wheels for sale on barnstormers for $80.00.
Might help someone, Rick Wilson.

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KR>Training Quandry, can KR's have dual pedals and sticks?

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Thomas, Most KR2's are equipped with dual rudder
pedals. I've very seldom heard of one that doesn't. As
for dual sticks, If the one you buy doesn't have dual
sticks, you can buy the dual stick controls from
Rand-Robinson and several other suppliers. You can
have it put in or put it in yourself without too much
difficulty. But again, I've seen very few KR2's that
don't have dual rudder pedals, even with a center
stick. Rick Wilson.
--- Thomas Brock <t...@arctic.net> wrote:
> Thanks again everyone for all of your help. I know
> that I am getting
> closer to buying my KR. It might just happen before
> Christmas, which is
> what I've been shooting for. Just as I think I'm
> getting closer, I seem to
> run into another snag. But your help has always
> seemed to provide the
> right answers.
> 
> I did check with my flight instructor here on the
> training requirements
> for his to teach me. Although I've seen KR's with
> dual stick, I'm not sure
> if there is one with dual pedals. If not, is this a
> modification that can
> be made without too much expense and damage to the
> airplane. The reason I
> ask is because my flight instructor says he will not
> get in the plane
> without full dual control.
> 
> The quandary I have is that there are no planes for
> flight instruction
> here. Everyone has their own plane, or  has taken
> the months to move into
> Anchorage to learn how to fly. The people who've
> done this are students
> who are planning careers as commercial pilots. I
> can't move into Anchorage
> to learn how to fly. I really don't want to buy a
> C150 just to learn how
> to fly.
> 
> What I really want to do is buy a KR2 or similar
> modern plane and learn
> how to fly it. I'd been looking at the Varieze but
> have discovered that
> they have no provision for dual control either. In
> addition, the Varieze
> doesn't seem to have the member-user base of the KR
> planes.
> 
> So, what do you have in mind? Can I buy a KR and
> then have it adapted with
> full dual control?
> 
> While we are on the subject of KR2 training, can
> someone explain the FAA
> sport license proposal. How will it be different
> from the standard private
> pilot license?   Thanks in advance for all replies.
> 
> Thomas
> 
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>Why trailer a KR?

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Thomas, One reason that comes to mind is simply to get
the plane and your car or truck back home at the same
time. Another reason is so that the pilot can
familiarize himself with the airplane by flying short
trips around the area he knows at his home base. If
there happens to be a bug or two that needs taking
care of, it would be easier to do at home. Rick
Wilson.
--- Thomas Brock <t...@arctic.net> wrote:
> I hope this is not too naive a question, but here
> goes:
> 
> In my research, it seems that some very experienced
> pilots
> have bought their FLYING KR airplanes and trailered
> them to
> their home locations. Why would anyone want to
> disassemble the
> wings, buy a trailer, and drive the airplane back
> home? Am I
> missing something here? I can see if someone is
> buying an
> incomplete project plane, but a perfectly flying and
> operating
> KR?
> 
> What gives here?
> 
> In addition, you probably already know that there
> are some
> "silent" folks who are newbies that are learning
> lots from
> your explanations. I did not know this until people
> started
> contacting me and sharing their delight in my
> questions. So,
> please know that you are helping other people as
> well, whom
> you might not hear from. I will express their thanks
> also.
> 
> Thomas
> 
> 
> _______
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>Lucite

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Dave, The 230 lbs. wouldn't be a problem. As far as
being 6'4" you may want to try and find someone who
has a Kr2 and see how well you fit. At the very least
you will want to build the KR2S. The KR's can be built
to accommodate a tall person, you can modify the
length and canopy height probably more than you could
with some of the other designs of homebuilts. Rick
Wilson.
--- "Wright, JD Dave (6865) @ IS"
<john.d.wri...@l-3com.com> wrote:
> Ron,
> I am trying to get info on whether the KR-2S is a
> good choice of a plane kit
> for me. I am new to all this. I am 6'4", 230 lbs.
> and would like to build
> something that doesn't take forever. I was also
> looking at the Sonerai, but
> I don't think I would fit. Any info would be
> appreciated.
> Thanks,
> JD
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Ron Freiberger
> [mailto:r.freiber...@earthlink.net] 
> Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 5:35 PM
> To: KRnet
> Subject: RE: KR>Lucite
> 
> Yes, Lucite is the material of choice for windows
> and windshields. It is not
> as strong as glass.  Lexan scratches easily.  And,
> don't get ant high
> solvent materials around the Lucite, such as some
> aerosol spray paints.
> 
> Make sure the stuff from Lowe's is Lucite (methyl
> methacrylate) and NOT
> Styrene.
> 
> 
> Ron Freiberger
> mailto: r.freiberger at earthlink.net
> r dot freiberger get it?
> 
> -Original Message-
> From:
> krnet-bounces+r.freiberger=earthlink@mylist.net
>
[mailto:krnet-bounces+r.freiberger=earthlink@mylist.net]On
> Behalf Of
> raybeth...@wmconnect.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 11:41 AM
> To: kr...@mylist.net
> Subject: KR>Lucite
> 
>I am considering using Lucite for my Gull Wing
> canopy doors and
> windshield.  It is said to be 10 times as strong as
> glass  It resists
> gasoline.  I can
> get it at Lowe's for about half price of Lexan.  
> Any comments?   You may
> reply
> to   raybeth...@wmconnect.comThanks,  Ray Goree
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> 
> 
> 
> _______
> see KRnet list details at
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>engine and PSRU for sale

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Hi, If anyone knows of someone that needs a big engine
for a homebuilt, there is a brand new Chevy 350 H.O.
engine still in the crate and a new prop speed
reduction unit to fit it for sale at: 
www.donateyourplane.com  They are selling it at an
almost giveaway price of $2100.00 for both- $1500.00
for the engine and $600.00 for the psru. There are
some pics of it there. They also have several other
projects for sale very reasonable. Rick Wilson.

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KR>rain and the kr

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Alex, Vortex generators are generally not that
effective except when used on canard airplanes. Rick
Wilson.
--- "Alexander Birca (MD/RMD)"
<alexander.bi...@ericsson.com> wrote:
> They are called Vortex generator, they are the
> rain/bugs contamination fix.
> I had asked before KR-netters opinion about to use
> them on KR, but it seems
> no body know about.  Generally the Quickie and
> Dragonfly owners who have installed them
> reporting not only fixing bugs/rain contamination
> fixing but as well lowering the stall speed.
> 
> BR,
> Alex Birca,
> Moldova
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net
> [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Ross
> Youngblood
> Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2003 10:51 PM
> To: KRnet
> Subject: Re: KR>rain and the kr
> 
> 
> Good thing you don't live in Oregon.
> 
> I've seen some paint damage on spam cans out here
> due to flying in severe rain.  I haven't flown my KR
> out here, but haven't heard from local EAA ers not
> to fly in the rain generally.
> 
> Their was a canard aircraft which had some rain
> issues
> and I think I heard some similar comments from a
> Long-EZ
> pilot who had some canard fix.  I'm open to hearing
> from netters on this, but haven't been "warned" off 
> of flying when the wing gets wet.
> 
> I think this is one of those "laminar flow" type
> concerns
> and at the moment, I don't even recall if the KR
> airflow
> RAF-46 (I think) was a laminar flow airfoil.  It's
> older
> so I would bet it is not laminar flow... but I'm a
> hose
> head, and often wrong.
> 
>  -- Ross
> 
> -> each time it drizzles i don't fly i cant find any
> information on the 
> -> effects
> > of lite rain other then higher stick pressers with
> the Kr.  it seams that 
> > most wood propped airplanes don't fly anyway do to
> damage with or 
> > without
> > urethane edge is what i understand.  i just like
> to know if IM caught in a shower 
> > will it do damage to the aircraft i always wipe it
> down if it gets wet or 
> > washing i also avoid the hinge points (controls)
> mac.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > n1055a flying
> > flymaca711...@aol.com
> > ___
> > see KRnet list details at
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> 
> -- 
> ___
> Check out the latest SMS services @
> http://www.operamail.com, which allows you to send
> SMS through your mailbox.
> 
> Powered by Outblaze
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>Vortex Generators

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Mark, Actually I should have said that vortex
generators are effective on swept wings, such as the
vari-eze and longeze, velocity,etc. The airflow
seperates from the top of the wing more on swept wings
than on straight ones. Vortex generators are like
small gates or dams that make the airflow stick closer
to the surface for a longer portion of the wing
surface. It makes the wing fly better at slower
airspeeds. This is about the best I can do in general
terms. You can read more about the subject on some of
the canard aircraft sites. Rick Wilson. ps. That was
my point, they don't help that much with bugs or rain.

--- Mark Youkey <myou...@cox.net> wrote:
> Rick,
> 
> Perhaps you can explain the vortex generator to me. 
> We have them on the
> E-3, which is a modified Boeing 707.  I don't see
> how they would help with
> bugs or rain, as they are on the top of the wing,
> 3/4 of the way back from
> the leading edge, and outboard of the elevators.
> 
> I'm not sure what they do (besides generate a
> vortex), and I just figured
> they are a "big plane" thing, and I shouldn't mess
> with them on a KR.  But
> obviously they do something, otherwise they wouldn't
> be there.
> 
> Thanks,
> Mark Youkey
> myou...@cox.net
> Oklahoma City
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Rick Wilson" <rwdw2...@yahoo.com>
> To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2003 5:13 PM
> Subject: RE: KR>rain and the kr
> 
> 
> > Alex, Vortex generators are generally not that
> > effective except when used on canard airplanes.
> Rick
> > Wilson.
> > --- "Alexander Birca (MD/RMD)"
> > <alexander.bi...@ericsson.com> wrote:
> > > They are called Vortex generator, they are the
> > > rain/bugs contamination fix.
> > > I had asked before KR-netters opinion about to
> use
> > > them on KR, but it seems
> > > no body know about.  Generally the Quickie and
> > > Dragonfly owners who have installed them
> > > reporting not only fixing bugs/rain
> contamination
> > > fixing but as well lowering the stall speed.
> > >
> > > BR,
> > > Alex Birca,
> > > Moldova
> > >
> > > -Original Message-
> > > From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net
> > > [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of
> Ross
> > > Youngblood
> > > Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2003 10:51 PM
> > > To: KRnet
> > > Subject: Re: KR>rain and the kr
> > >
> > >
> > > Good thing you don't live in Oregon.
> > >
> > > I've seen some paint damage on spam cans out
> here
> > > due to flying in severe rain.  I haven't flown
> my KR
> > > out here, but haven't heard from local EAA ers
> not
> > > to fly in the rain generally.
> > >
> > > Their was a canard aircraft which had some rain
> > > issues
> > > and I think I heard some similar comments from a
> > > Long-EZ
> > > pilot who had some canard fix.  I'm open to
> hearing
> > > from netters on this, but haven't been "warned"
> off
> > > of flying when the wing gets wet.
> > >
> > > I think this is one of those "laminar flow" type
> > > concerns
> > > and at the moment, I don't even recall if the KR
> > > airflow
> > > RAF-46 (I think) was a laminar flow airfoil. 
> It's
> > > older
> > > so I would bet it is not laminar flow... but I'm
> a
> > > hose
> > > head, and often wrong.
> > >
> > >  -- Ross
> > >
> > > -> each time it drizzles i don't fly i cant find
> any
> > > information on the
> > > -> effects
> > > > of lite rain other then higher stick pressers
> with
> > > the Kr.  it seams that
> > > > most wood propped airplanes don't fly anyway
> do to
> > > damage with or
> > > > without
> > > > urethane edge is what i understand.  i just
> like
> > > to know if IM caught in a shower
> > > > will it do damage to the aircraft i always
> wipe it
> > > down if it gets wet or
> > > > washing i also avoid the hinge points
> (controls)
> > > mac.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > n1055a flying
> > > > flymaca711...@aol.com
> > > >
> __

KR>questions - wafs / rims

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Steve, My KR2 weighs 690 lbs. with the 0200. I'm using
azusa wheels on it. It has flown with them and they
are still in great shape. Rick Wilson.
--- Steve and Lori McGee <lmc...@maqs.net> wrote:
> On the new wing design with the stronger spars,
> because the wafs will be farther apart, does this
> this also create a higher rating in the wafs?  
> 
> I am pretty sure now I will be pushing the limit
> plus of the KR2S with this foam fused flyer,
> partially because lets see, the HS is larger, fuse
> both fore (4 inches) and aft (2 inches), and the
> wings are all larger than the kr2s plans.  Having
> read in the archives that it is the wafs that were
> the weakest link, ( especially now with the larger
> spar).  I would not worry about the extra weight if
> I could get the wafs that much stronger.  I thought
> about increasing their thickness,  but have been
> wondering what the added spacing does.  
> 
> I guess I am also going to have to bite the bullet
> on those dang wheels with a heavier plane.  Any of
> you heavy S guys using those Asuza rims? 
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Steve McGee
> Endeavor Wi. USA
> Building a KR2S widened.
> lmc...@maqs.net 
> 
> 
> _______
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>Vortex Generators

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
I thought that was what I said in Alabama "hillbilly
english," Rick Wilson.
>   Hi All
> 
>   There seems to be a little confusion of the theory
> and practical use of 
> vortex generators.  Here is my 2 cents worth.
> 
>   A Vortex generator is a group of small tabs on the
> top or bottom of the 
> wing (also used on the vertical stab on some
> aircraft).  They are small 
> (short) enough to be only in the laminar flow of the
> wing.  The tab is set 
> at an angle to the airflow to introduce a rotation
> (or energy) to the 
> airflow.  This has the effect of keeping the airflow
> attached to the wing at 
> a greater angle of attack.  they do not reduce
> cruise speed at all.
> 
>   On laminar flow airfoils that are greatly affected
> by bugs on the leading 
> edge, a vortex generator will help keep the airflow
> attached to the wing 
> even with the bug or rain disturbing  the flow.
> 
>   Many aircraft are using vortex generators, and we
> have them on the Cessna 
> 414A that I fly.  The vortex generators reduce the
> stall speed and Vmc 
> (single engine control speed) with the resulting
> lower field length 
> requirements.  According to the specs, if more than
> 3 are mssing, we have to 
> operate the aircraft as if it was not equiped.
> 
>   Another example is the New Piper Meridan.  Piper
> added approx 72 vortex 
> gens  on the wings and horiontal stab and was able
> to increase the useful 
> load by 240 lbs and keep the same stall speed.
> 
>   Hope this didn't add to the confusion.
> 
>   Gord Sorensen
>   twotterdri...@hotmail.com
> 
>
_
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>
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> 
> 
> ___
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KR>KR-1 undercarriage

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Daren, Just a suggestion but you may want to think
about keeping the bigger wheels. Smaller ones probably
wouldn't make that much difference in speed, but if
you ever land with the gear up the bigger wheels might
just stick out enough to save the bottom of your
plane. Rick Wilson.
--- Daren Cogdon <spitfirebuilde...@yahoo.co.uk>
wrote:
> Hi all
>  
> Just a quick question: How much of the KR-1's wheels
> are exposed when retracted?  And can smaller wheels
> be fitted if possible?
>  
> Thanks
> 
> 
> -
> Download Yahoo! Messenger now for a chance to WIN
> Robbie Williams "Live At Knebworth
> DVD"___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>Fuel pumps

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Hi, I just thought someone might benefit from this-
The fuel pump used on 1000cc and 1100cc Yamaha Virago
motorcycles might be just what you need on a system
with float bowl carbs. They are one piece, self
contained with a pressure sensing diaphragm built in.
When the pressure required by the carb is reached the
diaphragm opens a set of points in the end of the pump
and disconnects the 12 volt power from it until the
pressure drops again and then closes the points so the
pump runs again. The fuel pressure needed by a
particular carb would be automatically controlled. The
pump would put out until the needle closes against the
seat and then stop until it unseats again. It would
also stop a steady drain on the battery. It may be
worth trying. All that's needed is a 12 volt
connection and an in and out fuel line. Rick Wilson.

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KR>KR plans

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
It seems to me that RR would be better off to let
someone handle their business for them, Maybe on a
percentage basis. This makes several times I have
heard of people not being able to get them to respond.
I don't know how anyone would go about getting parts
from them if you can't communicate with them. I've
been thinking of ordering a cowl from them, But I
don't know about that now, I'll probably order from
someone else. Rick Wilson.

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KR>Free supplies

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Hi, Mr. Standifer, Would you consider shipping the
Diehl gear if I pay the shipping ? Thanks Rick Wilson.
--- Pauline and Jack Standifer
<paulineandj...@eudoramail.com> wrote:
> 
> I have lost my medical and have several items to
> give away to any interested party.  These include
> unopened Diehl gear, 5 gal. fresh Aeropoxy, pullies
> and cables, some spruce and plywood, sheet aluminum.
> Etc.   Free to any one who wants to pick it all up.
> John Standifer,  Tucson AZ.  520-733-3152
> 
> 
> 
> Need a new email address that people can remember
> Check out the new EudoraMail at
> http://www.eudoramail.com
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>name for Brian's

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
By the time I'm finally done with mine I think I'm
gonna call it- "Meassis Dragon"  Rick Wilson.
--- Colin <crain...@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> What about "Rising Star"
> "Shooting Star"
> "Miss Galaxy"
> "Kraut's LuftStar"
> 
> Colin & Bev Rainey KR2(td)
> crain...@cfl.rr.com
> http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html
> Sanford, Florida
> KR Gathering 2004-see ya in Mt
>
Vernon_______
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>DAR

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Mark, I talked to the DAR in my area and he wanted to
come down before I was even ready. He's called me back
several times asking when I needed him here. With me,
it's only a matter of finishing the plane and paying
the DAR $400.00. Rick Wilson.
--- Mark Jones <flyk...@wi.rr.com> wrote:
> I am asking this on the net so those of us who are
> getting close to a DAR inspection will know.
> Larry Flesner, Is there anything we should know or
> do, with the DAR, prior to calling for an inspection
> to get them out promptly? I presume your DAR has not
> been there yet. Why is he delaying?
> 
> Mark Jones (N886MJ)
> Wales, WI  USA 
> E-mail me at flyk...@wi.rr.com
> Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at   
> http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
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KR>Plywood Listing

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Justin, The question has never been "where" to buy,
but"what" to buy. Rick Wilson.
--- Justin <jmw...@socal.rr.com> wrote:
> The plans do NOT specify where to buy your wood. I
> was reading in an
> airplane magazine like I said that article. If you
> look at the website
> correctly you will see it says "Marine/Exterior
> Plywood" If im not mistaken
> but what other EAA members have told me, marine
> plywood will work just as
> good as avaition plywood. It is inspected and will
> not come apart with
> water, two things we need in our plywood.
> 
> Justin
> N116JW
> www.geocities.com/attngrabber14/Home
> - Original Message -
> From: "David Mullins" <n32...@comcast.net>
> To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
> Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 5:51 PM
> Subject: Re: KR>Plywood Listing
> 
> 
> > Justin,
> >
> > I have used the 1/8" 6 ply birch plywood  GL-II
> from Finland. I purchased
> it
> > from Harbor Sales in Maryland. The Last time I
> went by they stopped
> > carrying it. Boulter Plywood has just started
> selling this plywood about
> > 1 to 1.5 years ago. Boulter is about 1 hr drive
> from me in Boston. I did
> > pick up some extra 1/4" from them when I needed
> some more.
> >
> > Another builder here is using it for his Corby
> Starlet.
> >
> > Dave Mullins
> > Nashua, New Hampshire
> > http://N323XL.iwarp.com
> >
> > Justin wrote:
> >
> > >I was reading my Sport Aviation magazine (march
> 2003) and found a listing
> in the back saying:
> > >"Aircraft Plywood, GL2 Rated" Does that mean it
> is certified for Aircraft
> use/ is ok for skinning the boat? Here's the
> website, take a peak and let me
> know guys.
> > >http://www.boulterplywood.com/
> > >
> > >Justin
> > >N116JW
> > >www.geocities.com/attngrabber14/Home
> > >___
> > >see KRnet list details at
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > see KRnet list details at
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> >
> 
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>I'm resuming construction on my KR2

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Bernie, T-88 is still the glue I would use. As far as
construction goes, all the wood parts are still the
same using the fixed gear. Dan Diehl, R.R., and Grove
are sources for the landing gear. They come with
assembly instructions. If you go to Dan Diehl's
website he has the instructions there. You can also
see pictures of how the gear is made. Rick Wilson.
--- Bernard McLean Sr <res0k...@verizon.net> wrote:
> Hello to all KR enthusiasts.
> I'm wondering if you can help me make a couple of
> decisions.
> I am about to resume construction on my KR2 kit
> (plans book no. 68) 
> which I started in February of 1986 and had to put
> on hold for a variety 
> of reasons (lack of assembly space, primarily). I
> managed to complete 
> all the wing spars and fuselage sides plus the
> horizontal stab and, 17 
> years later, am ready to begin assembly of the
> "boat".
> My questions are;
> 1.Should I use T-88 glue or is one of the more
> expensive products 
> listed by Wicks or A.S. a better way to go?
> 2.My kit is the retractable gear version. At the
> KR gathering  this 
> year I talked with many folks who suggested going
> with the
> fixed gear instead (which I have decided to do).
> Now, what do I need to 
> do before boat assembly to prepare for the fixed
>tail dragger 
> version?
> 3.Does someone sell the fixed gear components
> together with plan 
> modifications?
> 
> Thanks for any ideas you can provide!
> 
> Bernie McLean
> Poplar Grove Airport Illinois
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>cabin width

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Dean, The width of the cabin between the top longerons
is 38" but has been made wider by several builders. as
far as height, it varies with the way you build the
rear turtledeck and how high you place the canopy.
Rick Wilson.
--- wurlibir...@aol.com wrote:
> I'm new & I haven't bought plans yet but, I would
> like to know  a few things 
> before I do. Like cabin width ? Height?  I havn't
> seen any listings of these. 
> Thanks Dean
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>The Proper Adhesive ?

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
David, The T-88 is glue that is ised to bond wood
together in the case of airplane building. The West
system is epoxy that is used in laminating fiberglass.
Rick Wilson.
> --- David Mikesell <skyguy...@skyguynca.com> wrote:
> > OK, I am sure this has been batted around several
> > times. I know this is a opinion thing to...but I
> > have used T-88 on several wood projects but has
> > anyone used the West Epoxy System or another epoxy
> > with good results on wood, foam and fiberglass? I
> am
> > trying to narrow it down to using just one epoxy
> > system to do the whole airplane instead of T-88
> for
> > the wood and another system for the foam
> fibreglass.
> 
> 
> =
> Scott Cable
> KR-2S # 735
> Wright City, MO
> s2cab...@yahoo.com
> 
> __
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> 
> _______
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>West system epoxy

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
One paragraph on the website mentioned, says that west
system epoxy in it's primary form is not an adhesive,
You make it into glue by adding fillers. It would
probably be excellent to use as glue when the right
fillers are mixed properly. I believe I will stick
with T-88 and not have to mix fillers every time I
want to glue a joint. Everyone is entitled to use
whatever they feel comfortable with. I guess in my
mind I've just never thought about using epoxy systems
for anything other than laying up fiberglass. Rick Wilson.

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KR>type IV conversion manual dene colllet

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Would that not be the opposite?- Thrust would be
applied at all times except when the clutch pedal is
depressed. The crankshaft would be under load when the
clutch is engaged, it is disengaged when the pedal is
depressed. Rick Wilson.
--- "Wood, Sidney M." <smw...@titan.com> wrote:
> The clutch only has the thrust applied when the
> clutch pedal is depressed as when shifting gears for
> a few seconds.  The propellar thrust is applied for
> hours at a time.
> Sid Wood KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD
> 
>   -Original Message- 
>   From: Norman Stapelberg [mailto:nors...@mweb.co.za]
> 
>   Sent: Tue 11/18/2003 2:35 PM 
>   To: 'KRnet' 
>   Cc: 
>   Subject: RE: KR>type IV conversion manual dene
> colllet
>   
>   
> 
>   Hi Dene
>   If memory serves me correct a cars clutch exerts a
> force of about
>   1700lbs thrust on the thrust bearing, a prop pulls
> in the region of
>   200lbs thrust on the thrust bearing.
>   
>   Regards
>   
>   
>   Norshel Control Instrumentation cc
>   Norman Stapelberg
>   Cell: 027 83 277 9725
>   Home: 027 11 818 1345
>   Fax: 027 11 818 3547
>   
>   Mark L wrote:
>   I'd run it off the crank end, where the power was
> meant to be
>   
>   Thanks for the reply, I was unaware of any failures
> of the type IV crank
>   at all.
>   
>   
>   ___
>   see KRnet list details at
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
>   
>   
>   ___
>   see KRnet list details at
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
>   
> 
> 

> ATTACHMENT part 2 application/ms-tnef
name=winmail.dat
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> 


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KR>The diehl gear.

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Steve, The bracket is 45 degrees from either surface.
I built mine at 48 degrees from the top surface (from
horizontal because of the extra weight of the 0200. I
figured that would give it about the right amount of
preload for my application. I asked Dan Diehl and was
told that they were at 45 degrees. Hope this helps,
Rick Wilson.
--- Steve and Lori McGee <lmc...@maqs.net> wrote:
> Can someone please give me the angle that the leg
> support is welded from the spar?  Specify whether it
> is from horizontal (the spar) or vertical please (
> straight down).  Thank you.
> 
> Safe Flying to ya!
> Steve McGee
> Endeavor Wi.
> Building a KR2S widened.
> lmc...@maqs.net 
> 
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>lap belt support

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Colin, I think I recall seeing somewhere that some
builders chose to install cables from the rear of the
aircraft (somewhere around the tailwheel attachment
bolts) running forward to the shoulder belt attachment
brackets. This was supposed to tie the brackets into
the rear of the airframe. Just a suggestion, Rick
Wilson.
--- Colin <crain...@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> Netters,
> I am looking for commentary critique of my mounting
> of the lap belts in our KR. It is shown on our site
> and Dan Heath expressed a valid concern about the
> mounting. I would appreciate any commentary critique
> of this mounting and potential improvements.  Those
> who have not gotten to this pint yet here is your
> chance to learn before doing, to save you time.
> 
> Colin & Bev Rainey KR2(td)
> crain...@cfl.rr.com
> http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html
> Sanford, Florida
> KR Gathering 2004-see ya in Mt
>
Vernon___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>Corvair aero engine for sale on Barnstormers

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Hi, I just saw this ad on barnstormers and thought
someone might be interested. It is a nice looking
Corvair engine for sale. 100 H.P. Thanks, Rick Wilson.

=
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KR>G load - tank question.

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Justin, What plans are you reading? Mine for the KR2
say to build the tank under the forward deck, if
additional tanks are wanted put them in the stub
wings. Rick Wilson.
--- Justin <jmw...@socal.rr.com> wrote:
> Speaking about outer wing tanks, whats the
> advantages and disadvantages of
> this. The plans say to put the fuel out there but I
> haven't seen any KR's
> with that setup.
> 
> Justin
> N116JW
> www.geocities.com/attngrabber14/Home
> - Original Message -
> From: "larry flesner" <fles...@midwest.net>
> To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
> Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2003 6:27 PM
> Subject: KR>G load - tank question.
> 
> 
> > >I ask because I was wondering if the fuel tanks
> in the outboard wings
> > would be easier on the wafs than that extra load
> in the fusealge area.  As
> > it is the wings holding up the fuselage.
> > >Steve McGee
> >
>
+
> >
> > That's the route I went because I knew my KR would
> be heavy and
> > I wanted to take some of the load off the WAF's. 
> You must also
> > consider what moving the fuel rearward will do to
> your CG and
> > also to the handling qualities when you move up to
> maybe 150
> > pounds from the fuselage and hang it out in the
> outer wing
> > panels.
> >
> > I did more taxi text today with the tail up!  If I
> can't get the inspector
> > to schedule a visit real soon this thing is going
> to fly without me !!
> :-)
> >
> > Larry Flesner
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > see KRnet list details at
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> >
> 
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>Plywood Listing

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Justin, It's your option to put any kind of plywood
you wish on your project, but I am just curious as to
why you keep looking for anything other than what is
recommended in the plans? It seems to me that it would
be a lot less headache and expense to buy what is
called for and not have to always wonder if it's going
to come apart or not. Rick Wilson.
--- Justin <jmw...@socal.rr.com> wrote:
> I was reading my Sport Aviation magazine (march
> 2003) and found a listing in the back saying:
> "Aircraft Plywood, GL2 Rated" Does that mean it is
> certified for Aircraft use/ is ok for skinning the
> boat? Here's the website, take a peak and let me
> know guys.
> http://www.boulterplywood.com/
> 
> Justin
> N116JW
> www.geocities.com/attngrabber14/Home
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>email address for Ken Thomas

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Hello, Does anyone know Ken Thomas' email address or
his phone number? I live about 30 miles from him and
would like to contact him regarding a ride in his
KR2S. I have heard he has given other people
familiarization flights. I am almost ready to fly my
KR2 and it would be a great help to know more about
the controls first. Thanks in advance, Rick Wilson.

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KR>Psru

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Gavin, There is a man who advertises in the classified
ads in Kitplanes magazines who sells plans to build
PSRU's. I don't recall his name, but the name of his
business is "Reductions". I believe he is located in
Canada. I bought a set of plans from him and was well
satisfied with them. He also sells complete PSRU's.
Hope this helps, Rick Wilson. 

--- Gavin Donohoe <gavinandlou...@bigpond.com> wrote:
> HI all I've been looking back through the archives
> about PSRU's for Subaru engines, and in about 2001
> there was some posts about plans to construct one. I
> intend to build my own and most of the parts are
> available in my home town.  Can anybody direct me to
> anyone who has the plans available please?
> 
> Thanks 
> Gavin 
> Australia 
> 
> 
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system
> (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.535 / Virus Database: 330 - Release
> Date: 01/11/2003
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>Curing temperature for epoxy

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Hi, Today I did some fiberglass work on my project,
but before I was done the temperature dropped to
around 45-50 degrees. Can anyone tell me if the epoxy
will setup tomorrow when the temperature gets back up
to around 70-75, or will it not cure at all? Hopefully
it is not ruined. Thanks, Rick Wilson.

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KR>Curing temperature for epoxy

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
It wouldn't be a problem to plug in a heat lamp except
for the fact that my new building is 1,000 ft. or so
from the nearest outlet. I haven't hooked up the
electricity yet. Rick Wilson.
--- wa7...@aol.com wrote:
> 
> With the chance of resoftening at 110 or so ? - why
> are we not encouraging
> the use of heat lamps?
> 
> If it hadn't been for two light bars and six heat
> lamps at times, I never 
> could have built my KR. ha
> Lynn Hyder
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>Looking for VW parts

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
There is an ad on Barnstormers for some VW parts for
sale. I remember one of the parts being an accessory
case. If you are not familiar with Barnstormers, I
believe the address is www.barnstormers.com  Once you
get there you can do a search for ads that mention VW
parts, accessory case, etc. and find the ad. Maybe
this will help. Rick Wilson.  

--- VIRGIL N SALISBURY <virg...@juno.com> wrote:
> Virgil, Miami ,$ offers, Virg
> 
> On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 15:22:13 -0500 "Les Criscillo"
> <lcris...@tampabay.rr.com> writes:
> > Clear DayI'm looking for a Diehl Accessory Case
> from anyone who has 
> > decided to go to another engine. I'm building a
> type I 
> > motor-probably a 1915cc from GPASC. Let me know if
> there's anyone 
> > out there who has parts gathering dust in their
> garage!
> > 
> > Les Criscillo
> > Tampa, FL
> > 
> > lcris...@tampabay.rr.com
> > leslifeandfrie...@groups.msn.com
> > 
> > 
> 
> _______
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>Aircraft lumber

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Greg, When you buy the wood kit from aircraft spruce
or wicks all the lumber is already planed to the
peoper dimensions, as well as inspected for the
correct grade. This eliminates any guesswork and
insures that you are using wood that you will be
satisfied with in the end. I doubt whether you will be
thinking of a few dollars you saved on lumber when you
are cruising at 5,000 ft. (that is if you save any
money,) the wood kit for the kr's is not that
expensive. Just my thoughts, Rick Wilson.
--- ggrabow...@lwtm.com wrote:
> Greenville, SC
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: larry severson [mailto:lar...@socal.rr.com] 
> Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 5:01 PM
> To: KR builders and pilots
> Subject: Re: KR>Aircraft lumber
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greg S. Grabowski
> >ggrabow...@lwtm.com
> 
> If you would add your city/state to your return, you
> might find people in 
> your area making suggestions that fit your needs
> exactly. They might even 
> offer to help.
> 
> 
> Larry Severson
> Fountain Valley, CA 92708
> (714) 968-9852
> lar...@socal.rr.com 
> 
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> 
> _______
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>test

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson



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KR>CONVERTING KR-2 TO WING TANKS

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Brian, Doesn't 14 gallons in the header and 5 in each
wing add up to 24 gallons instead of 29? Rick Wilson. 

--- Brian Kraut <eng...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> 14 gallons in the header and 5 gallons in each wing.
>  I could have
> probably gone a few more gallons in the wings but 29
> gallons should be
> more than sufficient unless you are building a
> single seater with a big
> fuel hungry engine.
> 
> Oh, one thing I forgot.  The forward control cable
> for the aileron runs
> just behind the forward spar so you obviously need
> to cut the foam there
> so the cable doesn't hit the tank.  I had my plane
> hanging upside down
> so the elevator hung in the full up position which
> meant the stick was
> full back and the aileron cable was in the full
> forward position.  I
> almost didn't realize that the cable was going to
> rub against the glass
> on the tank when I pulled the stick back.  Make sure
> you have clearance
> with the stick in any position.
> 
> I also put a vent tube in each tank.  I drilled a
> 1/4" hole at the
> forward corner of the tank in the bottom and floxed
> in a piece of
> aluminum tube that was bent forward on the bottom of
> the wing.
> 
> I also made an indention on the back corner of the
> bottom foam plate and
> after it was glassed I took out some foam and
> epoxied in an aluminum
> fuel tank flange so I could put in a strainer.
> 
> Max Hardberger wrote:
> 
>   >Thanks, Brian. You have given me hope. What was
> your total fuel capacity
>   >when finished (header plus wing tanks)?
>   >
>   >Max
>   >
>   >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


=
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KR>KR LIST

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
You would probably have better results if ANYONE knew
who you were. Rick Wilson.
--- wa7...@aol.com wrote:
> please email me your info, i.e. name, 
> location, type project, and of course you email
> address to; 
> kr2sn50...@aol.com
> 
> More than once  kr2sn50...@aol.com  Has asked for
> this information without 
> identifying himself .
> 
> N506KR is not a registered "N" number.
> kr2sn50...@aol.com is not listed in the AOL Member
> directory.
> kr2sn50...@aol.com   AOL Member Profile is also
> blank.
> 
> Lynn Hyder N37LH
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>Dry Micro

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Eduardo, Thanks for the suggestion, I'll give it a try
next time, Rick Wilson.
--- "Eduardo M. Iglesias" <emigles...@cpenet.com.ar>
wrote:
> Ricky
> 
> When you had a very dry micro, add a little of
> etylic alcohol and you´ll
> have a very workable filler.
> Good luck.
> Eduardo
> La Pampa
> Argentina
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: "Rick Wilson" <rwdw2...@yahoo.com>
> To: <kr...@mylist.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 4:48 PM
> Subject: KR>Dry Micro
> 
> 
> > Hi, I have been touching up a few places on my KR2
> > using micro and epoxy. Sometimes the micro has a
> > tendency to roll up behind the spreader making it
> hard
> > to cover some spots. Is this normal with "dry"
> micro,
> > or am I mixing it too dry? Maybe someone who is
> more
> > experienced with this can give me an answer.
> Thanks,
> > Rick Wilson.
> >
> > =
> > Rick Wilson, Haleyville, Alabama KR2-0200A -99%
> rwdw2...@yahoo.com
> >
> >
> >
> > __
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
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> >
> > ___
> > see KRnet list details at
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> > ---
> > [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
> >
> >
> 
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
> 
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
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KR>Tie Down Attach Points

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Jim, I think I remember someone writing that they had
bolted a ring on with the wing attach bolts. That's
what I intend to do anyway. Rick Wilson.
--- Jim Morehead <kr...@d-web.com> wrote:
> Netters,
> 
> What kind of tie down attach fittings are you all
> using using on the wings?
> I have been trying to come up with a flush pull down
> or swing out ring to
> attach a tie down rope.
> 
> Thanks,
> Jim Morehead
> Cameron Park, CA
> Cut out the Ailerons, glassed in the aileron spars
> and attached aileron
> counter balance.
> Looking forward to Red Oak.
> 
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>KR2 Ailerons

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Tim, The plans call for nuts to be floxed to the back
side of the spar and then screws put through the spar
and screwed into the nuts. Same on the aileron spar.
Hope this helps. Rick Wilson.
--- Timothy Bellville <soner...@worldnet.att.net>
wrote:
> Help Guys,
> I made a horrible discovery today, and I need some
> help. On doing an inspection of the wing outer
> panels, I discovered that the original builder had
> used SS rivets to mount the piano hinges to the
> spars, and one came loose!
> 
> I scanned the plans but could not find anything
> about the installation of the aileron, just the
> control horn .
> What kind of fastener should be used? and how many?
> Could someone please go in to detail about this most
> critical assembly.
> I have spent a great deal of time finishing this
> little bird, and hopefully this is no big deal.
> At this point, I thought The wings were complete,
> ready for paint.
> Thanks
> Tim Bellville
> KR2
> N7038V
> Toledo ,Ohio
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>KR100 for sale on ebay

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Hi, If anyone is interested, KR100 is for sale on
ebay. The current bid is $7000.00. From the picture on
ebay it looks to be in great shape. The item # is
2422542012. Thanks, Rick Wilson.  rwdw2...@yahoo.com

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KR>Test

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
This is a test.

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KR>Test

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Sorry, Hopefully this will be the last test. 

=
Rick Wilson, Haleyville, Alabama KR2-0200A -99% rwdw2...@yahoo.com



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KR>Dry Micro

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Hi, I have been touching up a few places on my KR2
using micro and epoxy. Sometimes the micro has a
tendency to roll up behind the spreader making it hard
to cover some spots. Is this normal with "dry" micro,
or am I mixing it too dry? Maybe someone who is more
experienced with this can give me an answer. Thanks,
Rick Wilson.

=
Rick Wilson, Haleyville, Alabama KR2-0200A -99% rwdw2...@yahoo.com



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KR>Link To my KR2

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Hi, Mark Langford has added a link to my KR2 webpage
on the KRnet site. There are a few pictures of it
there if anyone would like to see them. Thanks, Rick Wilson.

=
Rick Wilson, Haleyville, Alabama KR2-0200A -99% rwdw2...@yahoo.com



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KR>krnet

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Hi, I am just checking to see if the net is still
working. I have only gotten two or three posts in the
last couple of days. It may just be a slow time. Just
checking, Rick Wilson.   rwdw2...@yahoo.com

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KR>chemical corrosion coating for 4130 steel?

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Mark, If you know of a gun shop in your area they may
be able to help you. Some of the larger shops have
bluing or rebluing services. The metal is dipped in
lye at a certain temperature to hot blue it, but some
places have a cold bluing kit. Just a suggestion, Rick
Wilson. rwdw2...@yahoo.com P.S. (This would make
it look like a gun barrel) it would still have to be
oiled, but wouldn't be nearly as susceptible to rust.
--- Mark Langford <n5...@hiwaay.net> wrote:
> Mark Youkey wrote:
> 
> > I looked in "The Science and Engineering of
> Materials" and found that
> > perhaps the best way is to zinc plate the steel.
> 
>  Hey, I have that book too!  Guess I should have
> opened it.
> 
> Actually, I'm looking for something I can do at
> home, but I may have to go
> that way.  I also considered powder painting it,
> which is supposed to be
> only .002" thick, but last time I had something
> coated it looked more like a
> .100", and had runs all over it.  They make
> home-brew kits, so that might be
> an idea.  But plating is a distinct possibility,
> assuming they can handle
> something 8 feet long.  Waxing may just get me there
> too, as long as I
> inpect it every time the wings are off, and it'll
> make it operate with less
> friction.  Call me optimistic on this one...
> 
> Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL
> N56ML "at"  hiwaay.net
> see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>KR1 on Ebay

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
There is also a KR1 on ebay for sale. It's an airframe
minus engine and instruments. (Under ebay motors in
the aircraft category) Rick Wilson. 
rwdw2...@yahoo.com
--- Brian Kraut <eng...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> I was just browsing on Ebay and there is a set of
> plans and a bunch of 
> wing ribs for a Steen Skybolt.  Current bid is
> $100.00.   Item # 
> 2180754460.  Closing in an hour.
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>post to the list(stabilizer strength)

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
The post about stabilizer strength was sent by me
months ago. I don't know why it came up now with an
attachment unless it may be a virus. Anyway I didn't
send it. Rick Wilson.   rwdw2...@yahoo.com

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KR>Re: KRNET?????

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Dan,I guess I just sent that first one directly to
you, Trying again to see if this one posts to the net.
Rick Wilson. rwdw2...@yahoo.com
--- Dan Heath <da...@alltel.net> wrote:
> Does anyone know if the net is posting?  I have sent
> in several posts and
> have not seen them.  However, there were a few from
> others.  Also, does
> anyone have Mark L's e-mail.  I cannot find it on
> his site. 
>  
> N64KR
>  
> Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
>  
> da...@kr-builder.org
>  
> See you in Red Oak - 2003
>  
> See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the
> pic
> See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org
>  


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KR>Forgot to ask

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Dan, My ailerons are built using pieces of trailing
edge metal glassed into the trailing edges. The extra
weight is negligible and it comes out with a perfectly
straight trailing edge. You can order one piece of
trailing edge metal from AS and should be enough to
do two ailerons. Rick Wilson, rwdw2...@yahoo.com
--- Dan Heath <da...@alltel.net> wrote:
> Does anyone out there in NET land, know how to make
> an aileron straight and
> keep it straight?   When I finished glassing the
> aileron, it was quite
> straight, now it is slightly bowed and wavy on the
> trailing edge.
> 
> What is the secret?
>  
> N64KR
>  
> Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
>  
> da...@kr-builder.org
>  
> See you in Red Oak - 2003
>  
> See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the
> pic
> See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org
>  ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>FAQ Available?

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Hi Russ, You can go to the krnet website and scroll
down past the list of projects and completed aircraft,
there is a link to frequently asked questions there.
Hope this helps, Rick Wilson.  rwdw2...@yahoo.com
--- Russ Evans <evan...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Please forgive if I've missed something obvious. I'm
> looking for a KR 'FAQ'
> so that I don't post the same old questions and
> annoy the list members. I'm
> trying to decide what homebuilt project to start, if
> any. The KR2S looks
> like a fast, economical design. I'd like to find
> further info such as
> average cost and time to complete. Also, at 6'1" and
> 240, many of the small
> fast designs won't quite wrap around me comfortably.
> I'm happy to read the
> FAQs before posting further if someone can point me
> to it.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
>   Russ Evans
>   Student pilot and bewildered aspiring homebuilder
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>Moisture meter

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Dan, I used a 1\16" drill bit and made holes in both
sides of each bay at the low end. I did the same thing
you did with a hose while washing mine. So far I
haven't gotten any more water in, but they drained
well the first time. Rick Wilson. rwdw2...@yahoo.com
--- Dan Heath <da...@alltel.net> wrote:
> Don't know anything about a moisture meter, but I
> sure could use one.  I was
> wet sanding this weekend and I had the plane
> outside, so instead of using a
> cloth to wipe off the residue, I used the hose.  Big
> mistake.  I got a lot
> of water into the fuselage and I think it got in
> through the elevator
> clearance hole.
> 
> Has anyone installed drain holes to handle
> situations like this?  I think I
> will have to put in inspection holes back there
> sooner than later.  It is
> very difficult for a 5'9" 175# old body to crawl
> back in the fuselage to
> wipe up the water.
> 
> This situation would most likely occur anytime you
> washed your plane if you
> used a hose to rinse it off. 
>  
> N64KR
>  
> Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
>  
> da...@kr-builder.org
>  
> See you in Red Oak - 2003
>  
> See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the
> pic
> See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org
>  ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>Moisture meter

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
P.S. Dan, I should have said I drilled them up through
the bottom skin, Thanks, Rick Wilson.
--- Rick Wilson <rwdw2...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Dan, I used a 1\16" drill bit and made holes in both
> sides of each bay at the low end. I did the same
> thing
> you did with a hose while washing mine. So far I
> haven't gotten any more water in, but they drained
> well the first time. Rick Wilson. rwdw2...@yahoo.com
> --- Dan Heath <da...@alltel.net> wrote:
> > Don't know anything about a moisture meter, but I
> > sure could use one.  I was
> > wet sanding this weekend and I had the plane
> > outside, so instead of using a
> > cloth to wipe off the residue, I used the hose. 
> Big
> > mistake.  I got a lot
> > of water into the fuselage and I think it got in
> > through the elevator
> > clearance hole.
> > 
> > Has anyone installed drain holes to handle
> > situations like this?  I think I
> > will have to put in inspection holes back there
> > sooner than later.  It is
> > very difficult for a 5'9" 175# old body to crawl
> > back in the fuselage to
> > wipe up the water.
> > 
> > This situation would most likely occur anytime you
> > washed your plane if you
> > used a hose to rinse it off. 
> >  
> > N64KR
> >  
> > Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
> >  
> > da...@kr-builder.org
> >  
> > See you in Red Oak - 2003
> >  
> > See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the
> > pic
> > See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org
> >  ___
> > see KRnet list details at
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> 
> 
> __
> Do you Yahoo!?
> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
> http://search.yahoo.com
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>props

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Thanks Larry, That's roughly what I'm getting now with
my 0200 and 58" x 68 prop. I believe it will be about
right. Thanks again, Rick Wilson.  rwdw2002yahoo.com
--- larry flesner <fles...@midwest.net> wrote:
> >Larry, What RPM do you get static with your setup?
> >Thanks, Rick Wilson. 
> ++
> 
> Hard to say right now as I'm not sure how accurate
> my tach
> is but it appears with the short test I've done so
> far that I'm
> getting about 2350 to 2400.  I hope that get me at
> least
> 2750 at cruise where the 0-200 is rated at 100 hp.
> 
> I'll know more in a month or so.
> 
> Larry Flesner
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> KRnet mailing list
> kr...@mylist.net
> http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet


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KR>Heat Muffs

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Dan, AS has several designs available. Most of them
are meant to be used with the Longeze and Varieze
airplanes, but would work very well on just about
anything. Look in the catalog and you'll find them
there. Hope this helps, Rick Wilson. rwdw2002yahoo.com
--- Dan Heath <da...@alltel.net> wrote:
> Does anyone know if there are any heat muffs
> available for a reasonable
> price?  What about a Heat box?  If so, where can
> they be purchased from? 
>  
> N64KR
>  
> Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
>  
> da...@kr-builder.org
>  
> See you in Red Oak - 2003
>  
> See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the
> pic
> See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org
>  ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>Heat Muffs

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Dan, Just thought I would mention them at AS I
figured you were already familiar with them but didn't
know for sure. I hope you find some reasonable. Rick
Wilson.  rwdw...@yahoo.com
--- Dan Heath <da...@alltel.net> wrote:
> RE:  AS has several designs available
> 
> Thanks, but that is why I said "reasonable price". 
> I think they are very
> expensive for something that is easy to make, given
> the materials and skills
> to weld aluminum.  They can be produced in bulk and
> many can be sold.  I
> guess it is just the old TORT thing.
> 
> I would make them, but I can't weld and good welders
> are hard to find. 
>  
> N64KR
>  
> Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
>  
> da...@kr-builder.org
>  
> See you in Red Oak - 2003
>  
> See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the
> pic
> See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org
>  ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


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KR>props

2008-10-12 Thread Rick Wilson
Larry, What RPM do you get static with your setup?
Thanks, Rick Wilson.  rwdw2...@yahoo.com
--- larry flesner <fles...@midwest.net> wrote:
> >I'm after a 54-56" dia, SAE 1, 2" centre bored,
> anticlockwise, three blade
> adjustable Warp Drive Prop for my Corvair 2700cc.
> >I'm done with 2 blade wooden experiments now.
> >57" dia x 60" pitch gave 2800 rpm static.
> >57" dia x 56" pitch gave 3200 rpm static.
> >54" dia x 56" pitch gave 3850 rpm static. 
> >John and Janet Martindale
>
+=
> 
> John,
> 
> Why not try flying the KR with one of those "wooden
> experiments"
> and see what performance you get in the air before
> before
> spending money on yet another prop.  I'd start with
> the 57X56
> and if it does OK, I'd try the 57X60.   What
> in-flight RPM are
> you looking for?  
> 
> Larry Flesner
> 0-200 with a Sterba 60 X 68
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> KRnet mailing list
> kr...@mylist.net
> http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet


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