KR> antennae +Microair

2008-10-12 Thread intrepid...@juno.com
> "orma"  writes:
> As far as I know all VOR antenna are V pole antenna.  I think that 
> the V is significant, though I'm not qualified in Radio electronics. 
> All of the antenna sold by the verious aviation suppliers seem to 
> be of that shape.  

  The V shape of the nav dipole antenna is one of convenience and
  mechanical stability only.

  What is more critical, especially for buried-inside antennas, is the
  polarization.   VOR especially is horizontal polarization.  FAA 
  publications mention this specifically and point out that if a vertical
  (polarization) antenna is used for VOR reception, signal reflections
  from the VOR transmitter site may affect the accuracy of the 
  received signal.   This may also be meaningful when using a handheld
  radio for VOR -- be sure to turn the whip antenna horizontal if you
  are using the VOR signal for navigation.

  The aircraft communication radios, OTOH, use vertical polarization. 

  When selecting sites inside the airframe for buried antennas, keep the
  polarization correct:  comm radios are Vertical, and nav radios use
  Horizontal.

  For more information than you'll ever need, the Ham's ARRL Antenna
  Handbook  cannot be beaten.

  Art Cacella   1970 American AA-1  N6155L  "Dinkie"
  N4ZD  1972 KR-1 Plans, still not started 
  ( but four metal homebuilts underway )
  Winston-Salem, NC


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KR> > Pitot

2008-10-12 Thread intrepid...@juno.com

  A certain line of Spam Cans uses a 1/4" aluminum tube
  running the full length of the wing, then attaches the pitot
  tube at the outer end of the wing with a short length of
  Tygon(tm) or similar hose.  No propwash, landing gear,
  blanking in a slip, etc. concerns at all.

  Simply remove the plastic/f'glas wingtip to access the pitot
  tube installation, especially handy when the local mud-
  daubers have Homesteaded on the one day you forgot to
  put on the pitot cover.

  Art Cacella   1970 American AA-1  N6155L  "Dinkie"
  1972 KR-1 Plans, still not started 
  ( but four metal homebuilts underway )
  Winston-Salem, NC


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KR> AS504x airfoil

2008-10-12 Thread intrepid...@juno.com
> "Ronald Metcalf"  writes:
> The AS504x airfoil sections appear to be a big improvement
> over the RAF48.
> I am interested in the strange "tuck" underneath the trailing
> edge - the last few mm seem to droop down leaving a
> concave area right at the back (underneath).


  FWIW, the old Maloof c/s propeller blades have a similar
  "tuck" carved into the last 20% or so of the trailing edge of
  their airfoil underside.   I, too, am curious "why?"

  Art Cacella   1970 American AA-1  N6155L  "Dinkie"
  1972 KR-1 Plans, still not started 
  ( but four metal homebuilts underway )
  Winston-Salem, NC


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KR>Rand/Robinson Engineering

2008-10-12 Thread intrepid...@juno.com
> "Jim Faughn"  writes:
> I've wondered why Jeanette wasn't interested in the possible
> sale/transfer or whatever you would want to call it, of the 
> business. --(snip)--
> can make the assumption that the profit in the worst case
> is in the range of $20-30,000. Next figure this is her retirement
> income and determine what investment it would take to
> replace this.  Just for fun, lets agree on 25,000 per year.

  Mr. Faughn has presented the best overview of the situation,
  IMHO.

  So for the frustrated would-be-Buyers of RR Engineering,
  perhaps a compromise position would work ?Think of
  =Distributor=.

  To keep this simple ( absent the ergos, to whits, et al) let's
  call the Distributership  "Acme Airplanes" ( or AA ).

  AA sets itself up as =a= Single Point for the KR- airplane.
( Not "the only", just "a" source... )
  AA re-sells KR- plans that it buys from RR. 
  AA re-sells KR- parts that it buys from RR.
  AA re-sells KR- parts that it buys from Diehl.
  AA re-sells KR- parts that it buys from whomever.
  AA re-sells wood kits that it packages from wood bought
from Aircraft Spruce, Wicks, Hermans Logging, et al.
  AA may even make a few parts ( metal parts kits ?) itself,
and sells them.
  AA might make and sell pre-assembled wood spar kits, 
and fuselage boats pre-assembled in AA's climate
controlled and clean-room assembly facility.
  AA could put together all the components of the airplane 
and sell them in Groups --- ie, Tail Group, Fuselage,
Wing Kit, Engine and FWF Kit, Finishing Kit. ( a la RV ).
  AA does all the whiz-bang advertising and promoting that
RR does not now do.
  etc.

  Simple, limited liability, good prospect to promote the 
  airplane, and probably a lot of fun for the AA personnel.
  High-profit for AA ?   Whooops, maybe not... but "making
  a killing" and "promoting the airplane" are not the same.

  As far as the Intellectual Property angle and "Rights", promise
  ( and keep that promise !) to buy enough from RR so as to
  not compromise her present position.  AA is a loose Partner,
  not a competitior.   Offering Mrs. Ken such a broader-based 
  stability that the Open Market does not may influence her to
  (gladly ? ) participate.

  This IMHO, and YMMV.  Another $0.02 food-for-thought.  

  Art Cacella   1970 American AA-1  N6155L  "Dinkie"
  1972 KR-1 Plans, still not started 
  ( but four metal homebuilts underway )
  Winston-Salem, NC


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KR>Spruce Order

2008-10-12 Thread intrepid...@juno.com
> "Mark Jones"  writes:
> Today I received a RAC trim system from AS and it 
> did not include the LED position indicator as they represent
> that it does. I ordered the T4-5 model and when I received it,
> the instructions states that the T4-5 servo has no compatible
> position indicator. The AS catalog leads you to believe
> that all the RAC Systems come with a Servo, Clevis/Pushrod,
> Rocker Switch and LED Position Indicator. Well, the T4-5
> does not and I am pi$$ed that I was mislead.

  Misteaks hapenne; it's a large catalog and they get a lot of
  descriptions (and related good info.) right.

  OTOH, the opportunity is now presented to make up a simple
  position indicator and provide it to others feeling the pinch 
  from RAC not offering one.Perhaps a simple PC-board
  with a wiper contact attached to the moving arm of the servo,
  or even a potentiometer dialing an analog voltmeter in the
  cockpit ?A bar-graph LED display would be nice on the
  panel, easy to accomplish, and could work with either driver.

  Art Cacella   1970 American AA-1  N6155L  "Dinkie"
  1972 KR-1 Plans, still not started 
  ( but four metal homebuilts underway )
  Winston-Salem, NC


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KR> Windmilling

2008-10-12 Thread intrepid...@juno.com
> "Stephen Jacobs"  writes:
> I prefer airplane engines for one reason only - they windmill - 
> VW's don't, they stop dead if there is a second's interruption
> in the fuel. I presume that Corvair engines also don't windmill
> (if they do please let me know).

  Steve, why do you want the dead engine to windmill ?

  Didn't the CAFE folks find that a =stopped= prop was better
  for glide range than one windmilling ?   Circa 1991, Kitplanes
  &/or Sport Aviation...

  Or, the electric in-flight-adjustable Ivoprops can be feathered
  which is the very best for maximum-range glides.  They cost
  a lot less than even the first airplane-engine part that one will
  eventually have to buy.

  Art Cacella   1970 American AA-1  N6155L  "Dinkie"
  1972 KR-1 Plans, still not started 
  ( but four metal homebuilts underway )
  Winston-Salem, NC


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KR>Training Wheel

2008-10-12 Thread intrepid...@juno.com
> "Mark Jones"  writes:
> .
> I think I will install a fake tail wheel (like an inline skate
> wheel) on the back with a swivel.

  Not as silly an idea as it may seem.   Virtually all American
  Yankees and Grumman Trainers have skid marks on their
  plastic tailcones caused by hitting and dragging the tail on 
  a less-than-perfect landing.   A desk chair caster wheel back
  there would be an obvious answer, not to mention reinforcing
  the idea of "training wheel on the front".  

  Saw a photo recently of a Fouga Meister (sp?) jet warbird ---
  tucked into the ventral fin was exactly such a "fourth wheel" !

  Art Cacella   1970 American AA-1  N6155L  "Dinkie"
  1972 KR-1 Plans, still not started 
  ( but four metal homebuilts underway )
  Winston-Salem, NC


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KR>Do we need a tail wheel lock on a KR?

2008-10-12 Thread intrepid...@juno.com
> "Dan Heath"  writes:
> No, but you need to use expansion springs. The compression
> springs are way too stiff, ask me how I know. Also, use springs,
> don't set it up with a direct connect. AS sells a nice compression
> spring set.

  The compression springs offer intrinsic safety against a broken
  spring leaving the tailwheel out of control.  Even with the spring
  broken, the end attachments are interleaved and the line secure.

  Pet stores sell these springs quite cheaply for use on dog tie-out
  chains to protect the pet from the shock of reaching the end of
  the chain.  They come in different sizes and compression force
  according to the size of the pet ( or tailwheel ... :).

  A tailwheel lock also provides a backup to a spring failure, and
  may even prevent landing forces and accelerations or oscillations
  from *causing* the springs to break. 

  How might such a fail-safe be accomplished with an expansion
  spring ?   A slip rod or stretch-limiting wire/cable thru the spring ?

  Art Cacella   1970 American AA-1  N6155L  "Dinkie"
  1972 KR-1 Plans, still not started 
  ( but four metal homebuilts underway )
  Winston-Salem, NC






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KR>Do we need a tail wheel lock on a KR?

2008-10-12 Thread intrepid...@juno.com
> "Stephen Jacobs"  writes:
> What the hell is a Harmon Rocket II?

  A derivitive of a Van's RV-4, the Harmon Rocket has a honkin'
  big Lycoming IO-540 ( 300+ hp) engine and constant speed
  prop on the nose.   The "II" comes from a slight widening and
  lengthening of the standard Harmon Rocket fuselage; maybe
  taller gear legs for a bigger prop also.

  I think.  Van has so many models now that I get confused.
  ( ok, I =stay= confused anyway ... )

  Art Cacella   1970 American AA-1  N6155L  "Dinkie"
  1972 KR-1 Plans, still not started 
  ( but four metal homebuilts underway )
  Winston-Salem, NC


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KR>Engines

2008-10-12 Thread intrepid...@juno.com
> Eric J Pitts  writes:
> Here is one more to look at, it is a Solar T-62 Turbine.
> The BD5T is using this engine, look at www.bd-micro.com
> can get up to 150hp.
> Power Rating (Sea Level)  95 SHP @ 6,000 RPM  
> Fuel Consumption (Max Power)  108 lbs./hr.  
> Weight  75 lbs.> Length  27 in.  
> Height  16.5 in.> Width  13 in.  
> Fuel Types  Jet A, JP4-JP5  
> Oil Types  MIL-L-7808 or MIL-L-23699  

  Nice, but 108 lbs/hr. is about 18-gallons per hour ?
  Turbine downsides: fuel consumption, cost of engine,
  weight and complexity of a PSRU.

  At the other end of the $pectrum is the good ol'
  McCulloch O-100-1 "drone" engine:

  Max. Power  72-hp at 4100 RPM (Direct drive to prop)
  Fuel Consumption (max power)  6 gph  (36 lbs./hr.)
  Weight  83 lbs.
  Length   27 in.
  Width   27 in.
  Fuel  115/145-octane
  Oil Type  S.A.E. 60  ( 10 to 1 ratio in the fuel )  

  Downsides: storing pre-mixed fuel vs. complexity
  and reliability of an in-line fuel/oil mixer.

  ...everything is a compromise...

  a r tw/ "Turbine Taste, Mac' Budget"

  Art Cacella   1970 American AA-1  N6155L  "Dinkie"
  1972 KR-1 Plans, still not started 
  ( but four metal homebuilts underway )
  Winston-Salem, NC


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KR>Vacuum gauge vs manifold pressure gauge

2008-10-12 Thread intrepid...@juno.com
> "Serge F. Vidal"  writes:
> On ZS-WEC, my KR2, I converted all the automotive
> size instruments into aircraft size (2.25 inches) instruments.
> 
> All I had to do was to make square flanges of the correct
> size out of aluminium 2.8mm sheets (I dreamt of a thicker,
> plastic sheet, without finding one), then cut out a hole in
> the middle at the correct automotive hole size, slip the
> instrument in, and voila!

  I make the same kind of flanges from ~0.090" clear acrylic
  plastic sheet --- the same stock from Home Depot that I use
  for making windows, landing light covers, etc.

  For the miniature automotive gauges ( ~1-5/8" diameter ), I 
  make a "size proportionate" flange and 4-40 machine screws
  rather than up-size the gauge into a 2.25" Aircraft Hole with
  6-32 screws.  These are great space-saver gauges in a KR-1
  sized panel.

  For some I've even epoxied (or Crazy Glue, cyanoacrylate ?)
  rivnuts into the corner holes for ease of installation.  Counter-
  boring both sides of the flange and *pulling* the rivnut is a bit
  more problematic and sometimes breaks the corner off.

  a r t

  Art Cacella   1970 American AA-1  N6155L  "Dinkie"
  1972 KR-1 Plans, still not started 
  ( but four metal homebuilts underway )
  Winston-Salem, NC


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KR>contributions

2008-10-12 Thread intrepid...@juno.com
> "Mark Langford"  writes:
> I don't like Paypal much myself, but I've managed to
> overcome it.  It's especially nice when people send
> money TO you!

  I'll be proud to make a contribution to the KR-Net.
  This has been the most valuable to =me= of the 
  several email-lists I belong to and I've not even been 
  here for very long.  
  Please remind us of the email id to PayPal some money
  toward / into ?n5...@hiwaay.net   ??

  Thanks for all,
  a r t

  Art Cacella   1970 American AA-1  N6155L  "Dinkie"
  1972 KR-1 Plans, still not started 
  ( but four metal homebuilts underway )
  Winston-Salem, NC


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KR>Tip Light lens

2008-10-12 Thread intrepid...@juno.com
> "Mark Jones"  writes:
> Here is a replacement lexan canopy which just
> might fit the bill. 
> The stronger (thicker ones) are out there.
> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?=LXBMP8=7

  This "canopy" looks perfect for the tip light lenses.
   ==Many Thanks !!==  for the pointer.
  I've ordered a pair for "engineering evaluation" and
  will report asap.  At $3.49 each, they will be good for
  =something=, ie, a rudder-top strobe enclosure ?

  FWIW, the spam-can TC'd Grumman-American 
  airplanes use a PMA'd tip lens from LP Aero Plastics.
  While their tip lenses would be good for any homebuilt
  needing a similar part, at ~$40 each they are 'way too
  pricey for what they are:  a thin, ( ~0.040" or less ) shape
  of a soft, flexible plastic ( polycarbonate ? ) and are cut
  to final fit with kitchen scissors.

  Art Cacella   1970 American AA-1  N6155L  "Dinkie"
  1972 KR-1 Plans, still not started 
 ( but four metal homebuilts underway )
  Winston-Salem, NC


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Equip. TSO Requirements (was Re: KR>DAR's and inspections)

2008-10-12 Thread intrepid...@juno.com
> "Dana Overall"  writes:
> I would also encourgage anyone interested to go to the
> following website:

  http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/tvrvbg/_borders/IFR%20equipment.pdf


  That has the answer, thank you !
  "...none of the equipment... is required to be [ TSO'd ]..."

  We =can= use the less expensive non-TSO'd ground based
  (ADF/VOR/LOC/GS) avionics with impunity.

  Of course, that may change tomorrow with a quiet NPRM...
  Again, Thank you !
  a r t




Equip. TSO Requirements (was Re: KR>DAR's and inspections)

2008-10-12 Thread intrepid...@juno.com
>> intrepid...@juno.com concluded:
>> We =can= use the less expensive non-TSO'd ground
>> based (ADF/VOR/LOC/GS) avionics with impunity.
> "Dana Overall" <bo12...@hotmail.com> previously wrote:
> Now the nuts and bolts.(FAA Advisory Circular 20-138)
>
> "Dana Overall" <bo12...@hotmail.com> now writes:
> Better put the brakes on a little.
> As the it reads, the non TSO'd equipment does not have
> to be constructed according to TSO requirements but it
> is still the responsibility of the PIC to have verifiable
> documentation that the equipment performs to the 
> TSO'd standards for IFR operation.

  Please, =where= is that stated in a Regulation referring
  to ground based navigation systems ??   AC's are not
  regulations, and GPS is not ground based.

  AC 20-138 doesn't do it, it is an Advisory and not a
  Requirement, and AC 20-138 is re. GPS, =not about=
  ADF, VOR, LOC, GS  avionics.   Citing AC 20-138
  is irrelevent and adds nothing but confusion.

  The periodic VOR Check of FAR 91.171 is =all= that
  is required, and it does not say anything about meeting
  a TSO standard.   Nor does FAR 91.205 say "TSO".

  Even FAR 91.205(f), "Category II" (which points to
  Appendix A), does not ever mention let alone mandate
  TSO standard'ed equipment.

  TSO'd avionics are NOT required.   Believe otherwise
  if you must, but don't state otherwise absent an FAR
  to support it --- which I'll happily concur with as soon
  as it is presented as "one [of many] I may have missed".

  This question arises often, and the excellent EAA piece
   (thanks, Dana) :

http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/tvrvbg/_borders/IFR%20equipment.pdf

  .summed up the research in its answer:  "N O."

  We can agree to disagree, too. Not a problem.
  I'm back to sanding in the 34-F carport.  Winds of 20,
  gusts to 35 blowing the dust away.
  Painting will have to wait until it gets a =lot= warmer
  and a bit less windy!

  a r t


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KR>DAR's and inspections

2008-10-12 Thread intrepid...@juno.com
> "Dana Overall"  writes:
> The IFR equipment install must be TSO'd equipment to
> legally use the system but supporting equipment such as
> airspeed, altimeter, and so on, do not have to be TSO'd.

  This is a common impression, that avionics must be TSO'd.
  But which FAR, by number please, requires "TSO'd avionics"
  under Part-91 operations, IFR or VFR ??None that I am
  aware of, but I may be wrong ( ...again :).

  The Narco MK-12, MK-12A, and MK-12B for instance,
  full of vacuum tubes and never certified by Narco to satisfy
  any TSO, were flown by us-oldtimers for many years in the
  hardest-IFR.  Its VOR/LOC nav receiver and indicator were
  self-certified for IFR use by the pilot using any of several rather
  crude functional tests at designated time intervals.   Some still
  fly these radios, which FAR prohibits this ?

  The more recent absurdities of Installation Certifications
  and TSO's applying to GPS navs are another bag of worms
  but do not retroactively include the VHF/UHF nav arena
  ( ie, VOR, LOC, and GS ) or the LF  NDB/ADF.

  The com radio, OTOH, must meet the 0.025 mHz spacing 
  requirements of the 21st century.   While this is most easily
  done by pointing to a TSO,  that TSO is not an all-inclusive
  requirement.  See FAR 21.303 and the keywords =may=
  and =when required=.

  IMHO, always subject to error and willing to accept the
  FARs as-written.

  Art Cacella  1970 American AA-1  N6155L  "Dinkie", flying 33 yrs.
 1972 KR-1 plans, still not started on 
 2004 Sonerai-I, on gear w/engine, making wings
 2004 Moni-m/G, on gear, mounting engine & wings
 2004 Polly, mini-RV-6, mounting engine & gear
 200? Intrepid, all metal canard pusher, 4-pl, parts
  Winston-Salem, NC


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KR>KR static system el cheapo

2008-10-12 Thread intrepid...@juno.com

  Prior to seeing the pop-rivet approach, my own plan
  was to use a pair of #8-32 or #10-32 truss head phillips
  machine screws.  A tiny hole was to be bored down through
  the head and shank of the bolt, and the threads would have 
  helped grip the tubing.   Self-locking fiber nut and washers,
  of course, and length-to-suit.

  But I like the pop-rivet better; and the local hardware store
  has a wide assortment of aluminum pop-rivets of many
  diameters and lengths.   I'd avoid steel as it is harder to
  pull, will rust, etc.

  a r t

  Art Cacella   1970 American AA-1  N6155L  "Dinkie", flying
 2004 Sonerai-I, on gear w/engine, making wings
 2004 Moni-m/G, on gear, mounting engine, making
wings
 2004 Polly, mini-RV-6, mounting engine & gear, all
else done
 200? KR-1, bought the Plans in 1972, still unstarted

  Winston-Salem, NC


On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 07:07:27 -0600 larry flesner 
writes:
> I suspect the total amount of expansion and contraction on a
> part that small would not be a problem.  From Dana's description
> it sounds like you "pull" the rivet but I wonder if you couldn't
> just epoxy the rivet in the wood skin with a small amount of
> epoxy on the exterior, under the head, and leave the shank intact.  
> 
> The hose connection on the inside would also tend to hold it in 
> place
> if the rivet doesn't push out when installing the hose.
> 
> Larry Flesner
> Carterville, Illinois
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> 
> 


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KR>Brakes

2008-10-12 Thread intrepid...@juno.com

  Hi, Tim ...

  If no one has beaten me to these gear assemblies, 
  I'd like to buy them.

  Thanks!
  a r t

  A. F. Cacella 
  679 Sunset Drive, Waughtown Station
  Winston-Salem, NC  27107-9422

  Tel: 336-785-1950
  e-dress: aerofa...@juno.com

On Mon, 22 Dec 2003 22:35:04 -0500 "Timothy Bellville"
 writes:
> I have a complete set of retract wheels brakes and gear legs that I 
> will part with for $40.00
> (that should just about cover crating and shipping)
> I went with a fixed spring gear and have every thing but the spring 
> bar(had to cut it to remove it)
> Tim
> KR2 N7038V___
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> 
> 


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