Re: [lace] Straw vs ethafoam
This is a little late as I'm still catching up on unread digests after a week at the beach! Jenny Hester wrote: >Styrofoam is the building material which is blue. Jenny is correct. I have a half sheet left of this builder's foam insulation that I bought at local building supply. Written on the foam is "Dow Styrofoam Brand" and "extruded polystyrene insulation". I believe Styrofoam is a Dow Chemical Co. brand name. It is not quite as dense as ethafoam It is light weight but can be glued to plywood or hard board base to make it more manageable. I have several pillows made of it for demos and try-it pillows. I also made a block pillow that folds in the middle so that a 22 inch pillow would fit into an 18 inch suitcase and I had several blocks so that I could use the same pillow for 2 different classes at IOLI in San Diego. "Invention is a Necessity of Mother" Louise in Central Virginia [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] A lace link
This is likely to be of most interest to Jo Falkink, who likes to keep her hand on the internet-lace pulse, but also to Weronika - click on "Vzorniky", and you'll see a booklet for sale, with a selection of lace patterns from Bobova (no thongs, though )... http://www.cipka.sk/ Jana Frajkorova taught the Slovak tape lace (many colours) from Soln'a Bana (there's a booklet for that, too ) in Prague, in the classroom next to mine. Jo, if you click on "Linky" (very difficult, Slovak is, no? ) there are links to other lace sites, some of which you might not have; I have not explored them, though noticed that Lenka Suchanek's Silverpin (which you *do* have) is there. --- Tamara P Duvall http://lorien.emufarm.org/~tpd Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) Healthy US through The No-CARB Diet: no C-heney, no A-shcroft, no R-umsfeld, no B-ush. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Bailleul photos/patron saints of lacemakers
On Jul 30, 2004, at 5:03, Sof wrote: Me I was in Bailleul (France) in the same time, a wonderfull lace meeting. You can see pictures on : http://blondecaen.chez.tiscali.fr/bail1.htm#BAILLEUL http://www.dentellieres.com/Reportage/R2004/Bailleul/index.htm It did look like a wonderful lace meeting, even to me, who doesn't speak a word of French... I was amused by the display of the lacy undies, mostly thong-type (page 3 of the first website). Remember the "flap" when the crocheters from Koniakow first started making them a couple of years back? Well, those were available in several Warsaw shops this summer. Then, in Prague, I saw them - in bobbin lace - on the Polish stand from Bobova. And now in France... They still look uncomfortable to me The museum(?) exhibition (p 13 of the first website) was *spectacular*; especially the Chantilly shawls. But why was there no caption under the photo of the painting(?) of the 3 lacemakers at their pillows? Is it a painting? Who painted the picture? Where does it reside normally? I know of several people who "collect" sightings of representations of lacemakers in art (painting, sculpture) and it would be interesting info to all of us. It was also interesting to observe the cultural difference between the English and the French; in England, it's St Catherine who's the patron saint of lacemakers, in France, it seems to be St Anne (mother of Mary?) Who are patron saints of lacemakers in other countries? --- Tamara P Duvall http://lorien.emufarm.org/~tpd Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) Healthy US through The No-CARB Diet: no C-heney, no A-shcroft, no R-umsfeld, no B-ush. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Colgan book
Hello Ann-Marie - I am looking at my copy of Louise's book, "Milanese Lace - Original patterns in Color", and on page 7 is the full-color picture of the "Butterfly". Pages 8 through 13 are devoted to instructions for this design. I assure you that there is a butterfly in this book and I am not aware of another butterfly pattern by Louise. So in that case, I believe that the pattern which you're looking for is in this book. If you'd like, contact me privately and I will send you a scan of the photo...But if you like it and want the pattern, you'll have to buy the book!! : ) Clay p.s., as I was once, but am no longer a member of the Yahoo group you mentioned, I couldn't see the photo. - Original Message - From: "Ann-Marie Lördal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Hello > Now I am a bit confused, I have gotten mails that tells me that the > butterfly pattern is Louise Colgan book > Milanese Lace Original Patterns in Color by Louise Colgan. and some that > says it is not in the book. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] thread leftovers
Thank you for the original query, and for the very full answer given by Robyn. I tried using leftovers for a small motif that I was working.. NEVER AGAIN! I got into all sorts of trouble, but thanks to Robyn's answer I was able to resolve some problems by using an "extension", so did not have to join in another thread on several bobbins. Being a thread miser is just not worth the hassle, I have come to realise. Maxine - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] fabric stiffener for lace
>>>From: Bev Walker [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] oh and a hint about putting stiffening goop on the ornaments - I have a small square of styrofoam (the cheap packing stuff) over which there is a piece of scrap fabric. <<< Just to reiterate, in case anybody's considering trying the polystyrene (plastic boxes) melted in acetone (nail polish remover) or carbon tetrachloride. Anything that will melt the hard polystyrene plastic boxes will melt polystyrene/styrofoam. Don't use styrofoam-style stuff to pin out the lace. Even if you put a layer of plastic bag between the lace and the foam, the pins will poke through and the fumes from the evaporating solvent will do damage. Different kinds of "poly" melt with different solvents. I don't know whether acetone or carbon tet will bother polyethylene (ethafoam, builder's foam), but recommend you avoid them. Foam rubber padding under an ironing board cover will dissolve with some solvents, too, and I don't know which ones. If using acetone or carbon tet, your best bet is to pin the lace out onto a thick layer of towels. This warning does not apply to more common stiffeners, like the starches. Robin P. Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA http://www.pittsburghlace.8m.com/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] fabric stiffener for lace
Hi everyone I have just tried API's Crafter's Pick fabric stiffener (api = The Adhesive Products, Inc. - no connection, usual disclaimers), which I bought at a Michael's craft store. It was the same price as Stiffy which I don't like because it goes yellow-y. The api formula is v. white, is sort of messy, but dries quickly and firm. I tried it on Christmas ornaments, bobbin lace with beads. The beads got coated, unavoidably, but being of glass I brushed them clean with a soft cloth when the goop had dried. I'm v. happy with the results. Thanks Janice for the credit about the plastic, and I am flattered, but it was Adele's message ( a fascinating, no-kidding idea too). oh and a hint about putting stiffening goop on the ornaments - I have a small square of styrofoam (the cheap packing stuff) over which there is a piece of scrap fabric. The whole square goes into a plastic bag then the ornament is pinned to the plastic (smooth the plastic over the square first). Then the stiffener goop is dribbled over the ornament, pressed in place with fingers then I dab off the excess with a damp cloth. If it is a sunny day, the unit goes outside to dry. Remove pins, and discard the plastic. The pins don't seem to be covered in too much glue, but just the same I only use them for this purpose, and store them stuck in the styro square. -- bye for now Bev in Sooke, BC (west coast of Canada) Cdn. floral bobbins http://www.victoria.tc.ca/~wt912 - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] subject line
Please use descriptive/informative subject lines not simply: question/help/digest-nr-xx. I can't read everything and know of others who even left the group because it was just too much, I don't like to join them. A good subject lines help to be selective and might keep me within the group. Also change the subject line when the subject (coincidence?) of a discusion changes. Otherwise it's easy to miss interesting discussions that started less interesting. Jo Falkink Who really needs to reduce the jungle backdoors into a garden. Summer here has been quite wet up to now. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] thread leftovers
I try to store leftovers on bibbins with the the original spool and same with leftovers rewound in bundels on the earlier mentioned embroiders bobbins. But may time I forget and put all on a pile for other decorative purposes. The last few years I'm mainly doing Flanders and white Milanese and use the same thread for both. Sometimes I have to resize the Milanese pattern for that purpose. So I wind a half set of bobbins with as much thread as I the bobbin can comfortably hold. That reduces the loss by almost 50%. It also reduces the boring winding task. For the "mother" bobbins I use a fast winder, hardly worth the trouble for short pieces, then I use the string method. Like spinning on a wheel versus spindle: the first faster by the hour, the other faster by the week. For Flanders I'm trying to learn neadle weaving. You start and end with plaited fringes, and work a repeat or so double, more in case of strating problems. After the weaving the remainders are cut of: two half repeats + one fringe each. The lost thread is really just a few cm. I heard of someone who processed these remaining pieces into postcards, but don't know the details. Jo Faklink - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] what to do with leftover thread on bobbins?
>>>From: Weronika Patena [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks, I'll try that. As a beginner, I guess I'm just always worried about not having enough thread, and tend to end up with twice as much as I need.<<< I was there once, and speak from experience--you need to learn to add a bobbin. It's not hard in most places, and then you won't be so worried about running out and so won't overload as much. The easiest place to start a new thread is in a cloth stitch (CTC) area. 1. Lay the almost-empty bobbin back out of the way, being careful not to stretch and distort the lace. Put a slip knot on the end of the thread on a new, full bobbin and hang it on a pin out of your way but not too far away (don't waste that thread!). Lay it through the pins so it lays where the old bobbin did. Continue on your way with the new bobbin. When you're done with the lace, snip the threads close to the work. The friction of the cloth stitch will keep the threads in place for ornaments, but may not be strong enough for clothing. 2. Put a slip knot in the new bobbin, hang it on an out-of-the-way pin, and lay it through the pins to where the nearly-empty one sits. For a few rows (if it's a passive) or one row (if it's a worker), work the cloth stitch but use both the nearly empty and it's replacement together as if they're one bobbin. A little awkward, but not hard, and it's just a little while. Some people tie them together, or use tiny rubber bands to hold them together. Then lay the old bobbin out of the way and continue with the new one. In a ground, like torchon (CTpCT) or point (CTTTp), use method 2, running two threads together for a distance. Because it is less dense, method 1 would not hold together. I do not recommend trying to change bobbins in half stitch (CT)--it will show. However, if you're getting low on a bobbin that's not in a good place to be replaced, do an extra twist or cross of whatever you need to put that bobbin where it will soon be in a good area to replace and the bobbin that would have gone there is where the nearly-empty one was. The turning stitch (CTTCT) or any of a variety of stitches can be used to "switch out" the bobbin. What is best to use depends on (a)where you need to send your nearly-empty bobbin; (b) what kind of stitch you're in; (c) the overall kind of lace you're making. Since you're not learning in a class, I recommend trying a few things and seeing which one is least obvious in the piece you're doing. "Switching out" sounds like it will create a tangle that will be *so* obvious, but it will surprise you! Now that I'm not so afraid of running out, I put less thread on my bobbins but *very* rarely do run out. It's just the fear that makes you overload the bobbins. Robin P. Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA http://www.pittsburghlace.8m.com/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Stacking Bobbins
Hi all! I've been reading the letters about stacking bobbins. When I did my big Bucks piece, I was working with 500+ bobbins. I was using anything I could wrap thread around! For stacking them, I had some pieces of leftover countertop material. It was thin, strong, and I could cut it easily on my bandsaw. I cut pieces 2x5 inches, and some 2x2 1/2 inches. I lined all the pieces up, and drilled a small hole on each end, so I could run a long divider pin down the pieces while they where stacked. Then I covered them with felt, (since then, it was recommended to me to use white felt, so any loose threads that work in match.) The bobbins stacked nicely, and I had room to work! For traveling, I would pin cover cloths over the stacks of bobbins, and pin, pin, pin! It worked great for me. Thanks! JoAnne Pruitt - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Possible Downton bobbins.
The answer is a clear YES. That is what they are. They are plain except for a few which have a turned ring or two on them. The ones I have seen and have, do have a little bit more of a point to them. You can get them a fair bit shorter too. More than there so called "share" are had whittled too. The oldest Downton is dated 1693 (like on the bobbin!) The history of their lace follows the fortunes of the lace industry in general; but the Downton revival occurred in the early 19oo's. They can be stained and very decorated, much on the same lines as the Honiton Bobbins. Downton bobbins form a group of non East Midland bobbins along with, East Devon (a more accurate name than Honitons) Malmsbury and the South Bucks bobbins. I have found decorated Downtons hard to find. Does anybody know of a collector of Downtons that I could correspond with? Brian and Jean from Cooranbong Australia - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Plastic Bobbins
Hi Lynn, >I have a travel pillow made by Inez in Queensland. At the moment I am doing >a piece of silk lace consisting of 21 pairs of midlands. I am using plastic >bobbins that I got from Noelene Hope somebody remembered to tell you never to leave the plastic bobbins in the car in summer.Saw one once which had melted to the shape of the cookie pillow and also had the markings of the thread on the neck - not a pretty picture :-( Bye for now, Shirley T. - enjoying a taste of Spring today (18 deg. C) but it was *only* a taste - they tell us its going down to 12 max. on Monday, a bit on the cold side for Adelaide. But, we've had two months of good rains, hooray. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] Bailleul (was: Prague)
Oh, Sof, you must tell us all about it when you get home! That looks like such a wonderful lace meeeting. Robin P. Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA http://www.pittsburghlace.8m.com/ - From: Sof [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Me I was in Bailleul (France) in the same time, a wonderfull lace meeting. You can see pictures on : http://blondecaen.chez.tiscali.fr/bail1.htm#BAILLEUL http://www.dentellieres.com/Reportage/R2004/Bailleul/index.htm - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Prague
Hello Everybody, I did some pictures of Czech national Costumes in the Arachne webshots album. They are from the museum in Lethorad. Under. http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003-date in Ilske's Fotos Here summer has come nearly as warm as in Prague. Greetings Ilske - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Colgan book
Hello Now I am a bit confused, I have gotten mails that tells me that the butterfly pattern is Louise Colgan book Milanese Lace Original Patterns in Color by Louise Colgan. and some that says it is not in the book. The butterfly is here http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bobbinlace/lst in Lyndas photos, you have to be a member of the bobbinlace group, but I guess we all are members in everything bobbinlace related :-)) Ann-Marie http://community.webshots.com/user/annma1 - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Winding bobbins with equal amounts of thread...
In a message dated 30/07/2004 12:41:56 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Wind the mate with 8 rotations off > the first bobbin, and your pair is equal - and you don't have to deal with > piles of thread getting tangled and dirty But make sure you take the thread off onto the second bobbin by "unwinding" it off the first, not by pulling it off the top. In other words, in the same way as you will, of course, have taken the thread off the side of the spool in the first place. If you don't believe this makes a difference, wrap a piece of ribbon or tape (or even a strip of paper) neatly around a pencil or similar, then holding the starting end onto the pencil, pull the ribbon off the top of the pencil. All the twists that you get in a short length of ribbon are multiplied over your yard or three of thread and will either tighten or loosen the correct thread twist. A rule of thumb, if the reel of thread isn't turning as you take the thread off, you're interfering with the twist. Jacquie - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Fw: Spam Alert: FW: John Kerry's Job Application
Subject: Re: [lace] Fw: Spam Alert: FW: John Kerry's Job Application > What on earth is this? Is it supposed to be fun? I don´t know much about > american presidents or senators? > > Ann-Marie It shouldn't be on lace, chat is the place for jokes jenny barron Scotland - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Winding bobbins with equal amounts of thread...
> >That's another big problem I have - I can't tell what length of thread I > >have on a bobbin, unless I unwind it all and stretch it out across the room > >or something, but that will often just end with a big mess of tangled > >thread... When winding bobbins for small projects, the process of measuring off a yard or two for one bobbin and then another yard or two for its mate is not a problem. But for larger projects where you need a lot more on your bobbins, the best solution is to use a bobbin winder. Measure out a yard, and count how many rotations it takes to wind up that yard, and then multiply this amount times the number of yards you want on your bobbin. If it takes 8 rotations to fill one bobbin, then fill the first bobbin with 16 rotations, and then cut your thread. Wind the mate with 8 rotations off the first bobbin, and your pair is equal - and you don't have to deal with piles of thread getting tangled and dirty Clay - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Fw: Spam Alert: FW: John Kerry's Job Application
What on earth is this? Is it supposed to be fun? I don´t know much about american presidents or senators? Ann-Marie http://community.webshots.com/user/annma1 http://www.ettklickforskogen.se/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] THread left on bobbins
Just a couple more ideas I haven't seen. If it's a thread you use a lot, then bobbins with lots of thread on, keep them as you can wind half across to make a pair. The rest, as you take the thread off the bobbins any that there is more than half a yard (a short arm length) just drop it, as it is with all its curls, into a small zip-top type bag. Add the bobbins with thread and a label to say what it is. When you use the thread again, you have some pairs half wound as a starter. Wind the rest with new thread. (If it is a biggish project and your recycled pairs have less thread than the others, use them as footside passives etc not as fan workers .) If/when you need to join in new threads use the bits from in the bag instead of new thread. You'll find that you can just pull a length from the bag. I think the curls help to stop them tangling and very rarely have problems. Don't be paranoid about running out - if you do, join in a new thread. If you were making a table cloth or metres of lace for a project then you would have to join in new threads, and if you break a thread you have to join in a new one. So learn to join new threads in well and don't worry if you might run out. It is far better to join in new threads than to overfill your bobbins, which means the thread is rubbing on the pillow. The thread should never be wound wider than the body of the bobbin. Another thing to use shortish ends for is to do a tension swatch (yawn, boring). Make a graduated pricking with a simple repeat pattern increasing one grid size (1mm) at each repeat - the photocopier is useful here, make a note of the percentage increase to get each "next size up or down" and do each one as a bigger and bigger increase (or smaller and smaller decrease) of the original to avoid distortion. By knowing this percentage, you can reproduce the same size pricking in future from your standard graph paper. The pricking will sort of look like this I I I I I I as each section is a little wider than the previous. Start your work from a grid a little too small through to where it is obviously to widely spaced, working straight across the change of size. This is usually about 4, 5 or even 6 grid sizes. It gives a very useful feely sample, often from stiff through to floppy, as well as visual. It is especially useful for working polar and other distorted grids where there is a range of spacings in the same pattern, but I often find thread/straight grid combinatins that I hadn't thought to use. It is also easier to change a pricking size slightly to best suit the thread that you already have than to go and buy yet another different thread for one project. You only need to do one sample for each thread, but for it to be useful you do need to attach them to a note book and label them with what they are and maybe add comments such as it broke a lot or was very difficult to tension. Jacquie - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Prague
Hello, Thank you for for all yours mails about Prague. I'll take time to read them when I'll come back home. Me I was in Bailleul (France) in the same time, a wonderfull lace meeting. You can see pictures on : http://blondecaen.chez.tiscali.fr/bail1.htm#BAILLEUL http://www.dentellieres.com/Reportage/R2004/Bailleul/index.htm Dentellez bien Sof from France with a hot sun - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Poole noodle details
Because most people don't have their own swimming pools and the main place they'd come across pool noodles is at the local swimming pool, several people have asked about the one I got. It's 5 feet long, about 2 and a half inches (6 cms) in diameter and I got it from 'Bitz' a typical novelties shop half way down Poole High Street. The importer might be able to give other outlets they supply in the UK: KandyToys Hill Barton Business Park Sidmouth Rd Clyst St. Mary Exeter Devon EX5 1DR Tel: 01395 234600 Jean in Poole - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Possible Downton bobbins
Hi Jean, Could these be Devon Trolly bobbins? I think that Downtons are just plain, thin sticks with a short head (they used fine cotton) and no shaping to the bobbin. jean in Cleveland U.K. On 29 Jul 2004, at 10:39, Jean Nathan wrote: I have just acquired some bobbins at what I think is a silly low price. I suggested the seller put them on ebay, but he said he'd be quite satisfied if I paid what he was asking. There are 56 Bucks thumpers, two oddities and 12 of what I think are Downton bobbins. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] I'm back
Guys, Sorry to cross post but I needed to drop a quick line to say that I've had no email or computer access for over 2 months due to my hard drive crashing (very likely my own fault for allowing spyware to get on!) and have only just got back on line. I have no saved emails from anyone and no address book so I'm trying very hard to rebuild all my contacts. Regards Liz - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
