[lace] More about modern

2007-07-29 Thread Aurelia Loveman
Dear Devon --  No doubt this will run to several e-mails. I hadn't 
realized that my own modern pot was boiling over.

Yes, of course, a traditional Bucks pattern made now wouldn't be 
the modern that we are reaching for, no matter how beautiful it 
might be, black silk, beads, etc. But nevertheless there is something 
lying dormant in the Point de Lille technique that has yet to be 
exploited by a design that could only arise in our own time.

Which brings me to my favorite Headache of the Year. I keep thinking 
about this all the time. Technique and Design. Technique and Design. 
One without the other and all you've got is virtuosity, not a real 
plunge into the current current. I guess what started me thinking 
about this is the present rage for Binche. Twenty years ago nobody 
thought twice about Binche. Just another Flemish lace. In 1988 (20 
years ago, good God!) I wrote the catalogue for the Walters Art 
Museum's first and only lace exhibit, and I notice how I fluffed off 
Binche with the merest mention (...never fully evolved in 
design...now being revived as esoteric studies for accomplished 
amateurs...). It is indeed, and still, not well evolved, designwise, 
but the rage for the technique is currently boiling hot and my 
patient little cry for better Binche design goes absolutely unheard, 
for the moment. I expect that in another decade or two, when the 
technique has been well absorbed, and doesn't carry any special 
cachet, somebody will quietly float an original Binche design that 
could never have been dreamed up in an earlier century. All of a 
sudden we will see the endless possibilities of snowflakes. ((By the 
way, the Walters catalogue is a beauty; they outdid themselves. If 
the Ratti library doesn't have a copy, let me know and I'll send you 
one))

What you say about wire lace is very much to my point. Just because 
the wire medium is new (or unconventional?) isn't enough to make a 
wire piece modern. Something about the design has to have been 
propelled into existence out of the stringencies of wire technique. 
So far, all the wire lace I've seen (not very much, as yet) seems to 
have derived from thread lace patterns.

I love Jane Atkinson. When I came upon her Pattern Design twenty 
years ago, I nearly died of joy. I haven't seen any of her later 
work, though. Where is it to be seen?

And as to my own work: I don't know how to describe what I do. I 
suppose you saw my Gardening in Winter (a fan with ferns as the 
design) on the cover of the Bulletin one or two issues ago. The 
ground is made of gold metal thread in a logarithmic pattern, so that 
it isn't quiet, but flexes and relaxes in waves (I guess my idea was 
to give it life; or something; I don't know what I had in mind, I 
just galloped slowly along). The ferns in the pattern are made of 
various green silks in needle lace. How naturalistic they might be I 
don't know. I did get a letter from a reader inquiring whether they 
were real ferns that I had glued on!!

My son, a cardiologist in Michigan and a virtuoso lace knitter (200/2 
silk knitted with angioplasty wires!) is just now taking up bobbin 
lace (no, not at his mother's urging), so we'll see what the next 
generation produces. I made the attached wall-hanging for him. Also 
needle plus bobbin.

Let me know what you think (and I have more to say!)  --  Aurelia
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[lace] 2nd Annual Winter Lace Conference, Costa Mesa, CA

2007-07-29 Thread spindexr
Posted on behalf of Belinda Belisle:

The 2nd Annual Winter Lace Conference will be held on Presidents' Weekend in 
Costa Mesa, California on February  15-18, 2008. The Conference includes two 
days of classes--with an additional add on day on Monday. This year's classes 
include Beds and Cluny with Holly VanSciver, Bucks with Bridget Cook, Flanders 
with Kathy Kauffman, Italian Cantu with Betty Manfre, Milanese with Louise 
Colgan, Tatting?a Self-improvement workshop with Georgia Seitz, Withof with 
Susie Johnson. 
 
Two special, limited enrollment advanced lacers' workshops will be held on 
Friday: Bucks with Bridget Cook and Withof with Susie Johnson.

Highlights of the conference include three days of lace classes, vendor hall, 
special banquet, book signing, and presentation!
 
For more information, contact Belinda Belisle at [EMAIL PROTECTED] or Betty 
Ward at [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [lace] More about modern

2007-07-29 Thread Ilske Thomsen
For those interesting in this subject have a look at B. Fays website, I 
hope it is there, for the book 3 knots - 100 ways from Gry Hvidberg. It 
sounds as if it is something for us.

Greetings

Ilske

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Re: [lace] modern/ Jane Atkinson

2007-07-29 Thread Ilske Thomsen

One problem, I think is, ironically, how long it takes to make lace.
Devon that's absolutly tru but meanwhile I could fill a small gallery 
with only my works what makes problem storing them in our flat. And 
because there is no gallery at the moment to show them  I put a serie 
of pictures taken from one piece actually two of the same shape, to 
show you that there are possibilities to work several our on one piece 
but afterwards have one you can decoraate every day in another way.

See under:

http://community.webshots.com/album/91823605klvXEA?start=12

And find out if you like it or not.
Greetings
Ilske

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[lace] Ells and other old measurement

2007-07-29 Thread Brenda Paternoster
According to How heavy, How Much and How long by Colin R Chapman a 
lot of old measurements were based parts of the (male!) human body.


A foot is 12 inches or 16 digits.  A digit is the width of a man's 
middle finger at the base of the nail and an inch the width of his 
thumb at the base of the nail.  A yard was the distance measured by 
King Henry I between the tip of his nose and the tip of his middle 
finger with his arm outstretched.


The same book states that an English ell is 45 inches whilst a French 
ell is 54 inches.


Brenda

On 29 Jul 2007, at 04:36, Tamara P Duvall wrote:


On Jul 28, 2007, at 17:52, bevw wrote:


An ell is about 45 inches. Does that help?
It is an English measure. Perhaps there is a French measure which the 
wooden

piece would represent.




On 7/28/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Assuming it has anything to do with lace at all, could it be the 
measuring
device for an ell of lace, which was the increment in which lace 
was

sold.


Some of the old measuring devices/terminology are thought-provoking. 
Take, for example, a foot... When did it become 12 inches (ca 20cm)? 
My foot is nowhere near that, though my husband's closer. In pre WWI 
Poland, all textiles used to be sold by an elbow (lokiec) -- a 
measure which was based on the length of an arm between the elbow and 
the wrist. I never even knew how much that was but (have only met the 
term in books), checking on the Polish version of Wikipedia, I found 
that it varied -- from century to century and from region to region. 
The shortest (and most common g) was 50.6cm (just short of 20 
inches) and the longest was 77.9cm (30.5 inches).


So, I expect, the French would have had some such measure too, before 
the French Revolution (which brought us the metric system and the 
lovely decimals).

--
Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/
Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland)

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Brenda in Allhallows, Kent
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html

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Re: [lace] Ells and other old measurement

2007-07-29 Thread Carol Adkinson

Hi All,

The measurement from King Henry I's nose to tip of middle finger made me 
think - when I tell my students how much thread (very 'ish' measurements, I 
might add) I always say So many noses - which is the length from nose to 
outstretched arm.I have never given much thought to this - I learned it 
as a child, doing embroidery, long before lace - but wonder if it could be a 
throw-back to this very early measurement!


CArol - in Suffolk UK

- Original Message - 
From: Brenda Paternoster Subject: [lace] Ells and other old measurement



King Henry I between the tip of his nose and the tip of his middle finger 
with his arm outstretched. 


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Re: [lace] Ells and other old measurement

2007-07-29 Thread Ilske Thomsen
We had the same measurement in Germany. A Elle in German is one of the 
forearm bones as in English too. And in former time the salesman 
measures the textiles or similiar things along their forearm. And it 
was between 50 and 80 cm.
We have also an old saying: Etwas mit der Elle messen  -  measering 
something with the ell. What means you handle it indiscriminate.


Ilske

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[lace] modern lace -the prequel

2007-07-29 Thread Dmt11home
Tamara writes:
Don't know how this -- what looks like a part of a private  
correspondence -- wound its way onto Arachne, but I find the subject  
fascinating and am grateful for the mysteries of the e-space which made  
it public :)
 
To explain, Aurelia sent me an email that, in retrospect, I think she  
intended for the list. I hope I do not violate e etiquette when I quote  it.
 
Dear Devon --  What qualifies as modern lace, would you say? I  
don't use existing patterns, I make my own -- is that modern? All 
the  lace I have made over the past seven years is 21stCentury lace 
--  is  that modern? Then there is that woman in Belgium with the 
funny name  (can't think what it is, at the moment) who has been 
working very hard over  the last 25 years or so to acquaint the world 
with contemporary lace.  (Hideous stuff, to my mind) Does that 
qualifu? I'd love to read an expanded  piece by you on the topic.  --  
Aurelia
 
My response, was more or less the following.
 
 
I guess I would have to expand my thoughts to write such a piece. I hadn't  
really given it much thought. I guess I am trying to distinguish the antique  
lace we buy, from something with 20th and 21st century eye-appeal. I  suppose 
a traditional Bucks pattern made now, even designed now, would not fit  my 
idea of modern.
 
I actually tend  think of the Weiner Werkstatte type lace as modern.  The 
term contemporary has been used to apply to very experimental type lace. I  
even find myself, now, thinking about how our image of contemporary lace  
actually brings to mind lace being made in the 1970's and that that was  
different 
in style from the lace actually being made now by those edgy  lacemakers who 
all seem to reside in Europe.
 
Is your work modern, or are the appropriate terms timeless or classic?  Now 
that we have conquered the terminology question about what a whole stitch  
is, perhaps we should take this one up. 
 
As perhaps you may recall, the Campaign for Modern Lace was conceived to  
encourage people to send me free modern lace gifts which I would then wear  to 
fancy places in the hope of inspiring the art buying public into embracing  new 
style lace to provide a boost for new style lacemakers. I wore a wire  lace 
piece to the Christmas Revels in New York, the year before last, not  
admittedly 
the place where well-heeled art lovers hang out, but none the less, a  sort 
of odd ball bohemian/folk atmosphere. This year there was another woman  there 
wearing something that looked a lot like wire lace and many remarks from  my 
party indicated that headway was slow, but possibly not non-existent.  
Actually, I exhibited a jewelry box of the wire work of Susan Lambiris, Tamara, 
 
myself and Debra Jenny at the lacemaking demonstration at the Museum of Arts 
and  
Design, formerly the American Craft Museum. It was very well received by the  
public who attended the event, many of whom were fiber and other artists.  The 
head of the docent program and the education program suggested that we  should 
be contacting the Museum to sell it there. However, I don't think my work  is 
finished looking enough, and there isn't much of it. Susan Lambiris cannot  
seem to assemble enough pieces to submit as a line to a gallery such as  
Julie's, because she keeps selling them personally and working on commission.  
So, even if I inspired a panic to own wire and modern lace, there doesn't seem  
to be a supply.
 
I am a member of the Textile Study Group of New York and they actually  
rented a gallery to show the work of their members who had not yet hit it big. 
I  
didn't enter anything. However, when I saw the quality of the other entries, I  
could have kicked myself, because my work was probably no worse. Let's see if 
 they do it again. 
 
I consider Jane Atkinson's work to be contemporary. Your remarks  make me 
realize that I should probably develop some explanation for these  designations 
instead of just throwing around terms I am unable to properly  define. 
 
What are your thoughts on contemporary, vs. modern, and whether your work  is 
aptly described as either?
 
Then Aurelia sent her very thoughtful response to the list as a whole- and  
that is where the conversation took off. 
 
Does anyone else have anything to offer about what modern lace is? Or  
contemporary lace? It is a good question.
 
Devon
 







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Re: [lace] modern lace -the prequel

2007-07-29 Thread Ilske Thomsen
It is a good question.  I don't think I am the people which can decide 
what's modern or not  but I try to write down my thoughts about this 
subject. I am afraid I can't explain it well enough in English, but I 
do my very best.
Working the traditional bobbin lace techniques today is necessairy to 
learn them but even we make today design patterns it is the old 
thing. For not being misunderstood I tell you I liked to do nearly all 
traditional techniques. I remark after a while that I prefere the fine 
ones, like Point Ground laces or Binche more then the others. I like 
Torchon because of its variety and it's clear look. But since along 
time I had a feeling there must be more than that and what I do are 
replicas from former time. So I keep my eyes open for classes where I 
could perhaps learning how to design laces. The next step was that in 
one yearly meeting we had always a theme for next years meeting. So I 
tried to make something of my one showing this theme like my 
Harz-picture. Than I saw collars from Jana Novak and I liked some of 
them than the time for the white brave little collar was over. So I had 
a new subject. The next was unusual corners for handkerchiefs and 
meanwhile I make things I can't wear they are more as decoration in a 
room or so. And I used unusual materials, not only wire. And in my 
opion these are the laces which show our time that's why I name them 
contemporary. But i didn't think enough what's better contemporary or 
modern.
I like this sort of lacemaking and I have so many ideas and so less 
time but nevertheless there are patterns in traditional lace I will 
work also.


Ilske

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[lace] Measurments

2007-07-29 Thread Miriam

Measurementsd are tricky.

In Israel there are still places where they measure the yardage from 
nose tip to arm length. This might give you about a meter. Several 
years ago I bought some fabric in Jerusalem and they still used this system.


Miriam
in a very hot Arad, Israel




Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 23:36:16 -0400
From: Tamara P Duvall [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [lace] Re: What is this?

On Jul 28, 2007, at 17:52, bevw wrote:

 An ell is about 45 inches. Does that help?
 It is an English measure. Perhaps there is a French measure which the
 wooden
 piece would represent.


 On 7/28/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Assuming it has anything to do with lace at all, could it be the
 measuring
 device for an ell of lace, which was the increment in which lace was
 sold.

Some of the old measuring devices/terminology are thought-provoking.
Take, for example, a foot... When did it become 12 inches (ca 20cm)?
My foot is nowhere near that, though my husband's closer. In pre WWI
Poland, all textiles used to be sold by an elbow (lokiec) -- a
measure which was based on the length of an arm between the elbow and
the wrist. I never even knew how much that was but (have only met the
term in books), checking on the Polish version of Wikipedia, I found
that it varied -- from century to century and from region to region.
The shortest (and most common g) was 50.6cm (just short of 20 inches)
and the longest was 77.9cm (30.5 inches).

So, I expect, the French would have had some such measure too, before
the French Revolution (which brought us the metric system and the
lovely decimals).
- --
Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/
Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland)


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Re: [lace] modern lace -the prequel

2007-07-29 Thread clayblackwell
In Art History, the terms modern and contemporary  are sometimes used 
interchangeably.  In my own mind, however, I am inclined to use modern for a 
style that is a complete departure from anything that has preceded it (Jackson 
Pollock comes to mind, although I admit his style resembled a house-painter's 
drop cloth), and contemporary for a piece that uses old techniques in fresh 
new ways, and (sometimes)  reflects something about the culture in which it is 
made.

I think it is important to look at the development of lace style over the 
centuries (not THAT many, after all...) and then compare that to the developent 
of painting styles, sculpture, etc.  Those media have enjoyed an unbroken line 
of patronism since the end of the middle ages, which has supported their 
constant shifts in allegance to the brightest and the best.  Lace, OTOH, 
nearly died out completely 100 years ago, and only really began its wonderful 
renaissance in the last 50 years - but without the patronage that the old lace 
enjoyed.   While lacemakers have been eager to learn new skills, they are 
focusing on the classics - just as artists in other media do when they first 
learn.  In Europe, where the renaissance was more like a silent rekindling of 
the flames, the lacemakers have become much more unfettered in their approach.  
Some of this lace is stunning, some of it is...  not.  

But remember, for every Rembrandt and Vermeer and Monet, there were many more 
painters who worked hard, but did not have the magic to surpass the masters.  
Many artists are not recognized as pivotal in their fields until well after 
their deaths.  

So...  it is really unrealistic for us to expect to say whose lace will be 
important in the future, and which lace will become yesterday's dish towel.  
Some of the edgy lace being designed in Europe today may well be viewed as 
pivotal - not because it was an immediate hit, but because it made other 
designers think in new ways and ultimately develop something which appeals to a 
wider audience. 

I am one of the people that Aurelia refers to when she speaks of the present 
rage for Binche!  I am happy to explore the endless mysteries of the queen of 
laces, as I think of it.  The more I learn, the more I need to know.  I don't 
think Binche should be dismissed as just another Flemish lace...  although 
even there, that should be seen as an accolade!  The laces of Belgium remain 
some of the most exquisite ever made, and it is no wonder that other countries 
had to impose embargos on importing lace!  My efforts at reconstruction during 
workshops, last summer and this summer, have given me a huge appreciation for 
those sturdy scholars who have worked to hard to bring some of this stunning 
old lace into the hands of today's lacemakers.

And finally, the question of modern/contemporary vs. classic needs to be viewed 
from the perspective of the lacemaker today.  Most lacemakers (I am in this 
group) make lace for pleasure and personal satisfaction.  Some design, for the 
enjoyment of others, but not with personal gain as a goal (Tamara Duvall comes 
to mind), and others enjoy teaching, and find that they also have a knack for 
design.  But within the field of Binche, there are precious few designers.  The 
Master Class at the Kantcentrum has been producing some very nice designs for 
the past five or ten years.  Their designs are very much dependent on classic 
technique, but the subjects are new.  Anny Noben's work is probably the best 
known, as she travels to the US each summer for IOLI and other workshops around 
the country.  But even her small designs take hours and hours and hours to get 
from her head to the printers.  And once in the hands of today's lacemaker (who 
usually has at least a few other obligations i
 n her 
life to keep her from being at the pillow all the time), a small round motif 
can take as much as six months or more to make!  

Still, the volume of lace produced  by one lacemaker after all the study, all 
the teaching, all the designing, can often be tucked into an archivally safe 
display book.  Without a market, or even a venue for display, the only voice is 
that of the lacemaker.  If the lace is accessible, it becomes popular.  If it 
is not...  then it remains in obscurity, or becomes the focus of those who want 
to move beyond intermediate to something that requires more time and focus.

Clay

--
Clay Blackwell 
Lynchburg, VA USA 


 Tamara writes: 
 Don't know how this -- what looks like a part of a private 
 correspondence -- wound its way onto Arachne, but I find the subject 
 fascinating and am grateful for the mysteries of the e-space which made 
 it public :) 
 
And Devon responded:

 Does anyone else have anything to offer about what modern lace is? Or 
 contemporary lace? It is a good question. 
 
 Devon 

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Re: [lace] modern lace -the prequel

2007-07-29 Thread clayblackwell
VERY well put, Ilske!  As you are definitely designing, and your work is quite 
attractive, I think you are a perfect person to respond to the question.  Thank 
you!

Clay

--
Clay Blackwell 
Lynchburg, VA USA 


-- Original message -- 
From: Ilske Thomsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 It is a good question. I don't think I am the people which can decide 
 what's modern or not but I try to write down my thoughts about this 
 subject. I am afraid I can't explain it well enough in English, but I 
 do my very best. 
 Working the traditional bobbin lace techniques today is necessairy to 
 learn them but even we make today design patterns it is the old 
 thing. For not being misunderstood I tell you I liked to do nearly all 
 traditional techniques. I remark after a while that I prefere the fine 
 ones, like Point Ground laces or Binche more then the others. I like 
 Torchon because of its variety and it's clear look. But since along 
 time I had a feeling there must be more than that and what I do are 
 replicas from former time. So I keep my eyes open for classes where I 
 could perhaps learning how to design laces. The next step was that in 
 one yearly meeting we had always a theme for next years meeting. So I 
 tried to make something of my one showing this theme like my 
 Harz-picture. Than I saw collars from Jana Novak and I liked some of 
 them than the time for the white brave little collar was over. So I had 
 a new subject. The next was unusual corners for handkerchiefs and 
 meanwhile I make things I can't wear they are more as decoration in a 
 room or so. And I used unusual materials, not only wire. And in my 
 opion these are the laces which show our time that's why I name them 
 contemporary. But i didn't think enough what's better contemporary or 
 modern. 
 I like this sort of lacemaking and I have so many ideas and so less 
 time but nevertheless there are patterns in traditional lace I will 
 work also. 
 
 Ilske 

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[lace] modern- more

2007-07-29 Thread Dmt11home
Let us not forget that there is some very interesting work being done by  
Japanese designers. I believe Wako Ono has had an exhibit. Also Junko Samejima  
was due to have one. Many of these designers are employing Flemish or English  
technique but producing designs with a Japanese eye. 
 
Perhaps it would be fun to imagine that we were going to have a gallery  show 
of modern/contemporary lace, sample title Is it modern or is it  
contemporary, and who we would include in such a dream team show.
 
I think a list would include:
Anny Nobens
Lenka Suchanek
Susan Lambiris
Aurelia- of course
Wako Ono
Junko Samejima
Jana Novak
Ilske 
Jane Atkinson
maybe those people who make the wire fences
Jane has pointed out the website 
_http://www.glofab.se/nordiska_museet_content.html_ 
(http://www.glofab.se/nordiska_museet_content.html) ,  or actually the 
entire _www.glofab.se_ (http://www.glofab.se)  site  which contains some very 
interesting examples of modern lace
 
This list is off the top of my head in about a minute and not  thought out, 
but who else do you think should be on it?
 
Devon



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Re: [lace] modern- more

2007-07-29 Thread bevw
Robin Lewis-Wild, although I don't know what else she might have done, she
did make the gi-normous  hanging, like a Torchon bookmark in rope.
a few decades ago.
The Austria-Spitze lace artisans, too - for their flowing definitely not
traditional designs cogent with the Art Nouveau movement - and using only 3
pairs of bobbins (impressive to the lace techno-geek, if no-one else) .

The term 'modern' is an art category, as we also have 'post-modern'
'contemporary' can mean right now, or at-the-same-time-as something of a
much earlier era (e.g. contemporary with 'Bedfordshire' lace).

A term I'm seeing now is 'creative bobbin lace' or 'creative Torchon' -
meaning that they use the conventional techniques in a new way.


This list is off the top of my head in about a minute and not  thought out,
 but who else do you think should be on it?



-- 
Bev in Sooke BC (on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada)

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[lace] Modern Lace Dream Team

2007-07-29 Thread Dmt11home
Also, there was a piece at the Convention in Montreal made by a Canadian  
artist which was very modern. Now, I can't recall her name. But she had made a  
free standing piece out of wire of Honiton type grounds which looked like  it 
had been cut jaggedly, also a wire lace bird.
 
Devon



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Re: [lace] modern- more

2007-07-29 Thread Aurelia Loveman

What fun! What a wonderful idea! A virtual gallery all our own! Yes, yes, yes!

Aurelia


Let us not forget that there is some very interesting work being done by 
Japanese designers. I believe Wako Ono has had an exhibit. Also 
Junko Samejima 
was due to have one. Many of these designers are employing Flemish or English 
technique but producing designs with a Japanese eye.


Perhaps it would be fun to imagine that we were going to have a gallery  show
of modern/contemporary lace, sample title Is it modern or is it 
contemporary, and who we would include in such a dream team show.


I think a list would include:
Anny Nobens
Lenka Suchanek
Susan Lambiris
Aurelia- of course
Wako Ono
Junko Samejima
Jana Novak
Ilske
Jane Atkinson
maybe those people who make the wire fences
Jane has pointed out the website
_http://www.glofab.se/nordiska_museet_content.html_ 
(http://www.glofab.se/nordiska_museet_content.html) ,  or actually 
the

entire _www.glofab.se_ (http://www.glofab.se)  site  which contains some very
interesting examples of modern lace

This list is off the top of my head in about a minute and not  thought out,
but who else do you think should be on it?

Devon



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[lace] Pictures of Seven winners

2007-07-29 Thread Jean Leader
We've now added a gallery of pictures of the Trophy and Award winners 
for the Seven competition to the Lace Guild website (URL in the 
signature) - just click on the small blue Seven logo at top centre of 
the Welcome page. ('Refresh' or 'Empty the Cache' if you don't see 
it.)


Jean and David in Glasgow where we have sun and showers
--
Lace Guild home page: http://www.laceguild.org
(alternative if problems: http://www.laceguild.demon.co.uk/)

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[lace] Rage

2007-07-29 Thread Aurelia Loveman
My phrase a rage for Binche was not meant as a putdown. Not at all. 
My prequel to Devon said Technique and Design, not Technique OR 
Design. In fact I think (not an original thought) that it is 
constant refining and pushing of orthodox techniques that ultimately 
produces breakthroughs in ideas (design). Incidentally, and as an 
aside, I am waiting for some wire genius to exploit the memory 
feature of wire (thread hasn't got that talent), but that's what 
virtuoso performers are all about.


Well, now that dear Clay has taken a nutty little drift of thought 
and made it respectable and desirable, what's our next step? How do 
we begin to establish our gallery? And what is the distinction 
between modern and contemporary? My only stipulation would be 
that nothing ugly or clumsy be entered in our gallery. Let us not 
forget that the fundamental nature of lace is __elegance.


P.S. And yes, will I ever forget my wowed reaction when a Bulletin 
came in, a year or two ago, with Janice Blair's Mask on it? Just my 
idea of everything modern, contemporary, elegant and plain gorgeous.


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RE: [lace] Ells and other old measurement

2007-07-29 Thread Sue
This line reminds me of my first lovely lace tutor who now sadly suffers
with Alzheimer's she used to say wind on three armfuls of thread onto
the bobbins and would pull off three arm lengths from chin to the end of
fingers.
Sue M Harvey
Norfolk UK


--
Subject: Re: [lace] Ells and other old measurement

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[lace] Puncetto knotted needle lace

2007-07-29 Thread Annette Meldrum
Yesterday I was told about this YouTube movie which shows the making of
Puncetto lace.

Puncetto is a lace made in the Italian Alps around Valsesia. Traditionally
it was worn on the blouses – around the neck and cuffs and set into the
shoulder seams.

Very hard wearing and very beautiful.

I learnt to make Puncetto at the first Italia Invita Congress in Rimini in
2003.

It is pronounced Poonchetto

enjoy

HYPERLINK
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XweZDJ7vKc4http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X
weZDJ7vKc4



Annette Meldrum

In sunny but fresh Wollongong, NSW Australia


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Re: [lace] Rage

2007-07-29 Thread clayblackwell
My first suggestion is that our eagle-eyed Miss Aurelia be chairperson of the 
vetting committee!!  I like your criteria, Miss A!!  (I think that ugly or 
clumsy and lace do not belong in the same sentence - not to mention the same 
show!!)

And my other observations are...  A) Does it matter, at this point, what the 
distinction is between modern and contemporary? ... that point can be refined 
as our show evolves...  and B) We can begin to assemble our gallery before 
we find our web-master.  and C) To truly appreciate modern OR contemporary, it 
would be nice to have some elegant examples of old laces (made by modern 
lacemakers), as a way of educating the rest of the world who may have no idea 
at all what old lace looks like - beyond what they see at the local craft 
store. (shudder...)...  And while I'm on a roll, those gifted artists who 
represent the brightest and the best may find that more exposure means more 
demand for their designs... thus prompting more designs.  Hm...  21st 
Century patronage!!  Well...  Leonardo didn't get famous overnight either!!

Clay
--
Clay Blackwell 
Lynchburg, VA USA 


-- Original message -- 
From: Aurelia Loveman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 My phrase a rage for Binche was not meant as a putdown. Not at all. 
 My prequel to Devon said Technique and Design, not Technique OR 
 Design. In fact I think (not an original thought) that it is 
 constant refining and pushing of orthodox techniques that ultimately 
 produces breakthroughs in ideas (design). Incidentally, and as an 
 aside, I am waiting for some wire genius to exploit the memory 
 feature of wire (thread hasn't got that talent), but that's what 
 virtuoso performers are all about. 
 
 Well, now that dear Clay has taken a nutty little drift of thought 
 and made it respectable and desirable, what's our next step? How do 
 we begin to establish our gallery? And what is the distinction 
 between modern and contemporary? My only stipulation would be 
 that nothing ugly or clumsy be entered in our gallery. Let us not 
 forget that the fundamental nature of lace is __elegance. 
 
 P.S. And yes, will I ever forget my wowed reaction when a Bulletin 
 came in, a year or two ago, with Janice Blair's Mask on it? Just my 
 idea of everything modern, contemporary, elegant and plain gorgeous. 

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Re: [lace] Puncetto knotted needle lace

2007-07-29 Thread Jennifer Audsley
Thanks for posting the link Annette - that's gorgeous, and I love the
simplicity of just the needle and thread creating the lace - no pillow, no
laying a trace etc etc. Do you know of any books with Puncetto technique
details?

Jen in Melbourne, Australia

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RE: [lace] Puncetto knotted needle lace

2007-07-29 Thread Annette Meldrum
The best reference is the Anchor Manual of Needlework Chapter 11. I bought a
book in Italy but it is in Italian and I think it is out of print.
Manuale del puncetto valsesiano by Angela Petterino Camaschella. 
Valsesia Editrice, Borgosesia 1992. No ISBN.

If you google Puncetto you will also find some good sites.

Enjoy

Annette Meldrum

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Jennifer Audsley
Sent: Monday, 30 July 2007 10:01 AM
To: lace@arachne.com
Subject: Re: [lace] Puncetto knotted needle lace

Thanks for posting the link Annette - that's gorgeous, and I love the
simplicity of just the needle and thread creating the lace - no pillow, no
laying a trace etc etc. Do you know of any books with Puncetto technique
details?

Jen in Melbourne, Australia

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3:50 PM
 

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RE: [lace] Puncetto knotted needle lace

2007-07-29 Thread Aurelia Loveman
Dear Annette and spiders --  I have an edition of the Anchor Manual 
that was published in 1974 by Charles Branford Co. of Massachusetts 
and is of course in English. Its chapter XXI is devoted to puncetto 
and it is drop-dead gorgeous! I should think Amazon or BN or one of 
those online booksellers could find one.


Aurelia
Catonsville, MD



The best reference is the Anchor Manual of Needlework Chapter 11. I bought a
book in Italy but it is in Italian and I think it is out of print.
Manuale del puncetto valsesiano by Angela Petterino Camaschella.
Valsesia Editrice, Borgosesia 1992. No ISBN.

If you google Puncetto you will also find some good sites.

Enjoy

Annette Meldrum

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Jennifer Audsley
Sent: Monday, 30 July 2007 10:01 AM
To: lace@arachne.com
Subject: Re: [lace] Puncetto knotted needle lace

Thanks for posting the link Annette - that's gorgeous, and I love the
simplicity of just the needle and thread creating the lace - no pillow, no
laying a trace etc etc. Do you know of any books with Puncetto technique
details?

Jen in Melbourne, Australia

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3:50 PM


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RE: [lace] Puncetto knotted needle lace

2007-07-29 Thread mary carey

Hi All,

Watched the clip off Utube via the link Annette posted, yes it is lovely.

Knew I had it in one of the books in my Library - found it on P 94 of the 
Golden Hands series, think I was collecting them in the '80s.


The knots are also used in Knotted Needle lace, as in Elena Dickson's book.  
Interesting to watch, it is the Mediterranean Knotted Needle Lace that I 
have done some of.  If the basic cross, twist, cross works for many types of 
bobbin lace, why not the same knots for different disciplines in Knotted 
Lace?


Mary Carey
Campbelltown, NSW

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[lace] Re: modern- more

2007-07-29 Thread Tamara P Duvall

On Jul 29, 2007, at 14:53, Mary L. Tod wrote:

This list is off the top of my head in about a minute and not  
thought out,

but who else do you think should be on it?

Devon


I would also include Janice Blair and Tamara Duvall, who contribute 
designs regularly to the IOLI Bulletin.


Thanks, Mary, but I don't think I'd meet the standards :)

Actually, although I do try to, both, use the old techniques in 
slightly different ways and (to) modify old techniques slightly to suit 
the needs of my patterns, I don't think of myself as being an 
artist-designer and certainly not a modern one.  Contemporary, 
perhaps, in the sense that I design with (con), or within, my own 
times (tempora). But not modern, as I understand modern -- pushing 
the envelope of shapes and fibers drastically (dare I say in a 
revolutionary manner? g).


I lack the personality traits -- the vision, the fire and the ego -- 
necessary to think of pushing in the lacemaking as art direction. 
None of my designs are intended to be displayed at galleries and 
museums as something unique. All of them are meant to -- hopefully -- 
seduce some other lacemaker into reproducing them, perhaps learning a 
new trick in the process, perhaps being stimulated enough to use that 
trick in a design of her own. Even if that doesn't happen -- not 
everyone has an itch to design and work out her own patterns from 
scratch -- that lacemaker will have something to show for the hours of 
effort (and fun); an accomplishment to be proud of and to bolster her 
self-confidence.


My goal is to appeal to the average lacemaker. Not to the art 
collector, not to the lace connoisseur, not even to a historian or a 
serious student. So I try to guess and anticipate her tastes; maybe 
broaden them just a tiny little stitch... But I do not try to push them 
into radically new dimensions, because they, mostly, match my own -- 
fairly pedestrian and staid and ordinary -- tastes perfectly :)


If asked who, in the history of the lace world, do you identify with 
the most? I'd have to say it's the R.M of the Neuw Modelbuch, rather 
than people like Thomas Lester or Felix Aubert.


Slightly off-topic, but only slightly... Here's a -- possibly 
cautionary -- tale of applied art textile which had been catapulted 
into the pure art category...

http://www.nytimes.com/2007/07/29/us/29quilt.html

--
Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/
Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland)

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Re: [lace] Ells and other old measurement

2007-07-29 Thread Joy Beeson

I, too, was taught to estimate yards by holding fabric to my
nose.  If I strike a certain pose, the measurement is fairly
accurate.

I learned in the early forties; no doubt Mom had learned in
the teens, and her mom in the nineteenth century.

--
Joy Beeson
http://joybeeson.home.comcast.net/
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/
http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange
west of Fort Wayne, Indiana, U.S.A.

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Re: [lace] Modern Lace Dream Team

2007-07-29 Thread Nicole Gauthier

Devon,I think you are speaking of Veronique Louppe.

Nicole

Le 07-07-29 à 14:43, [EMAIL PROTECTED] a écrit :

Also, there was a piece at the Convention in Montreal made by a  
Canadian
artist which was very modern. Now, I can't recall her name. But she  
had made a
free standing piece out of wire of Honiton type grounds which  
looked like  it

had been cut jaggedly, also a wire lace bird.

Devon


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[lace] Re: modern- more

2007-07-29 Thread Tamara P Duvall

On Jul 29, 2007, at 13:54, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Devon) wrote:

Perhaps it would be fun to imagine that we were going to have a 
gallery  show

of modern/contemporary lace, sample title Is it modern or is it
contemporary, and who we would include in such a dream team show.

I think a list would include:
Anny Nobens
Lenka Suchanek
Susan Lambiris
Aurelia- of course
Wako Ono
Junko Samejima
Jana Novak
Ilske
Jane Atkinson
maybe those people who make the wire fences


A couple more in the US, if we're gonna sing the peans to the unsung 
modern designers...


Elizabeth Mc Donald (of Pennsylvania; IOLI Bulletin front cover, Spring 
'04)

Radmila Zuman
http://mysite.verizon.net/rzuman/
who, like Lenka Suchanek and Jana Novak, is an expatriate from 
ex-Czechoslovakia, which reminds me of a couple of (ground-breaking 
IMO) designers still there:


Milca Eremiasova:
http://www.gallery.cz/gallery/cz/milca-eremiasova.html
and
Zdenek (?) Dolezal (?) I hope some of our Czech readers will straighten 
me out on this one; I'm looking for a guy who's designing dncers and 
all I'm finding is some 'puter geek :)


Out of curiosity... How will you decide which names should or should 
not go into the virtual gallery of the modern/contemporary/cutting 
edge/creative lace designers? Since clumsy/ugly vs elegant 
(Aurelia's standard) is not, really, an objective measure, but a highly 
personal judgement?


--
Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/
Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland)

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[lace] Modern Lace Dream Team/more

2007-07-29 Thread Dmt11home
In a message dated 7/29/2007 10:44:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Out of  curiosity... How will you decide which names should or should 
not go into  the virtual gallery of the modern/contemporary/cutting 
edge/creative lace  designers? Since clumsy/ugly vs elegant 
(Aurelia's standard) is not,  really, an objective measure, but a highly 
personal  judgement?




I was a little concerned about this, myself, because a lot of  contemporary 
work is ugly to some people, often because it makes a statement.  Veronique 
Louppe's piece in which the wire was cut was beautiful and shocking at  once. 
But 
I found it fascinating. My daughter, who has just graduated from  college 
with a degree in Fine Art, concentration in sculpture, was gravitating  to soft 
sculpture near the end and found that she was the only person in the  class who 
thought that a piece of art could be visually appealing and still  convey a 
meaningful message. So, at her college, at least, there are a lot of  people 
who think art really has no business being anything but ugly. 
 
Of course, my original thought was simply to assemble a list as sort of an  
intellectual game, in case anyone ever asked for one. The recruitment of a web  
master, etc, had not occurred to me. However, in the words of the immortal 
Tommy  Smothers, I say Take it, Dickie! to anyone who wants to go that route. 
 
 
For anyone who is interested, here is the website of the Members Gallery of  
the Textile Study Group of New York. _http://www.tsgny.org/GALLERY.html_ 
(http://www.tsgny.org/GALLERY.html) 

 
Devon
(showing her age by referencing the Smothers  Brothers)



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[lace-chat] Help

2007-07-29 Thread Shirley Meier
Does anyone know a poem about bobbins that is a variation on
One, Two buckle my shoe
Three, Four knock at the door,  etc ?

Apparently there is one but I can't find it anywhere.
Shirley in Corio Oz.

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Re: [lace-chat] Help

2007-07-29 Thread Bev Walker
Isn't that it, though? The whole little rhyme has BL references:

One, two buckle my shoe (get ready for school - lace school)
Three four out the door (going there)
Five six pick up sticks (the bobbins)
Seven eight lay them straight (tension?!)
Nine ten, a big fat hen (pin)
Eleven twelve dig and delve (hm, don't know the collection)
Thirteen fourteen maids a courting (more with bobbin pairs...)
Fifteen sixteen (I forget)
Seventeen eighteen maids a-waiting 
Nineteen twenty that's a-plenty 
(end of repeat?)

something like that anyway!

-- 
bye for now
Bev in Sooke, BC (on Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada)

On Sun, 29 Jul 2007, Shirley Meier wrote:

 Does anyone know a poem about bobbins that is a variation on
 One, Two buckle my shoe
 Three, Four knock at the door,  etc ?

 Apparently there is one but I can't find it anywhere.
 Shirley in Corio Oz.

 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [lace-chat] Help - oops

2007-07-29 Thread Bev Walker
Here I wrote

 Eleven twelve dig and delve (hm, don't know the collection)

and meant 'connection' - tsk - blame it on the distractions in the
household clamouring for lunch...

-
bye for now
Bev in Sooke BC (on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada)

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[lace-chat] :) Fwd: The Love Dress

2007-07-29 Thread Tamara P Duvall
I don't remember seeing this particular one before, though it's in the 
general let's bash the males some more vein, and I get quite a few of 
those. More funny than most, though :)



From: G.R.


A woman stopped by unannounced at her son's house. She knocked on the 
door then immediately walked in. She was shocked to see her 
daughter-in-law laying on the couch, totally naked. Soft music was 
playing, and the aroma of perfume filled the room.


What are you doing? she asked.

I'm waiting for Mike to come home from work, the daughter-in-law 
answered.


But you're naked! the mother-in-law exclaimed.

This is my love dress, the daughter-in-law explained.

Love dress? But you're naked!

Mike loves me to wear this dress, the DIL explained. It excites him 
no end. Every time he sees me in this dress, he instantly becomes 
romantic and ravages me for hours on  end. He can't get enough of me.


The mother-in-law left. When she got home, she undressed, showered, put 
on her
best perfume, dimmed the lights, put on a romantic CD,  and lay on the 
couch waiting for her husband to arrive.


Finally, her husband came home. He walked in and saw her lying there so 
provocatively.


What are you doing? he asked.

This is my love dress, she whispered, sensually.

Needs ironing, he said. What's for dinner?

HE NEVER HEARD THE SHOT

--
Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/
Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland)

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[lace-chat] :) Fwd: Marital counselling

2007-07-29 Thread Tamara P Duvall
I'm almost sure I've seen this one before, but, if so, it's worth 
another round. And it fits in, perfectly, with the bash the husbands 
theme :)



From: A.N.


A husband and wife came for counselling after 15 years of marriage. 
When asked what the problem was, the wife went into a passionate, 
painful tirade listing every problem they had ever had in the 15 years 
they'd been married. 


She went on and on and on: neglect, lack of intimacy, 
emptiness, loneliness, feeling unloved and unlovable.  An entire 
laundry list of un-met needs she had endured over the course of their 
marriage .

 
Finally, after allowing this to go on for a sufficient length of time, 
the therapist got up, walked around the desk and, after asking the wife 
to stand, he embraced her and kissed her passionately. The woman shut 
up and quietly sat down dumbfounded as though in a daze.


The therapist turned to the husband and said, This is what your wife 
needs at least three times a week. Can you handle this?


The husband thought for moment and replied Well, I can drop her 
off here on Mondays and Wednesdays, but on Fridays, I fish.

 
--
Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/
Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland)

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