[lace] Beginner's questions about Bucks point lace
Also when you are talking about the number of twists to do after gimps, it depends on which way you do your gimps. I know Achim said she twists twice then lifts the left hand thread to pass the gimp through, but if you study it you will see you only then have one twist left before the gimp. Even clearer, just do one twist, lift the left hand thread, pass the gimp through and voila, no apparent twist. I usually teach my students to lift the right hand thread as this then leaves in place behind the gimp the number of twists that you think you have. Another twist sits above and below the gimp (this is where the second one disappears to when you lift the left hand thread) and a second one 'closes the gate'. The reason why I teach to lift the right hand thread is that this is all you have to remember. If you lift the left hand one you have to remember to twist twice first; remember, if you don't, you are left with no twist at all. Having passed the gimp through, if you want it held in place with twists you can see that only one still 'leaves the gate open', you need the second one; you don't need to remember it. So, if you want to have no twists after the gimp when going into cloth stitch (and this is what Pat Read taught me for Bucks; match the twists to where you are going) lift the right hand thread, pass the gimp through and go straight into cloth stitch. This way the gimp can snuggle down close against the clothwork and give a better outline than if it's held off at a distance by twists. Jacquie, in a very wet and miserable Lincolnshire. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Beginner's questions about Bucks point lace
Hallo Ilske, Hello David, Achim and all others, in Chantilly I learned as a rule: coming from point-ground3 twists honeycomb 2 twists half-stitch 2 twists behind the gimp going into point-ground2 twists honeycomb 2 twists half-stitch 1 twist perhaps this helps Das werd' ich mir für die nächsten Chantilly-Spitzen notieren, danke! I'll remember that for the next Chantilly lace I'll do. I just got "Chantilly - Techniek en patronen" from the Nederlandse Kantopleiding - some beautiful patterns in there! Hummel, Hummel nach Hamburg, Achim (gebürtiger Uetersener). - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Beginner's questions about Bucks point lace
Hello Jacquie, I know Achim said she twists twice then lifts the left hand thread to pass the gimp through, Yes, just that I'm a he (I'm not too sure about that sometimes, but last time I checked I was ;-). but if you study it you will see you only then have one twist left before the gimp. Even clearer, just do one twist, lift the left hand thread, pass the gimp through and voila, no apparent twist. You're right - that's something I also noticed. ... half an hour later ... I just tried all that with really thick threads and watched what happens. With "lift left" one twist ends up on the side of the gimp I'm working towards and is gone from the side where you'd think it would be. With "lift right" the gimp cant slip through the twist. Since I only did one pattern repeat, I'll try your method for the next - I'll twist twice before the gimp, pass it through by lifting the right bobbin and then make no further twist but start the cloth stitch at once like David also suggested. Chantilly as taught by Lia Baumeister also uses "lift right" so the twists stay on the side where you do them. Jacquie, in a very wet and miserable Lincolnshire. There were 24°C today here in Berlin - probably one of the last warm days this year. Thanks a lot for the long explanation - very instructive! Best, Achim. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Beginner's questions about Bucks point lace
Hello David, Achim and all others, in Chantilly I learned as a rule: coming from point-ground3 twists honeycomb 2 twists half-stitch 2 twists behind the gimp going into point-ground2 twists honeycomb 2 twists half-stitch 1 twist perhaps this helps Ilske - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Beginner's questions about Bucks point lace
Hello Brenda, This subject was covered quite extensively by the OIDFA Point Ground > group and and along with all the other minor variations in working > methods came to fruition as 'Point Ground Lace; a Comparative Study' > published by OIDFA in 2001. I was going to buy that anyway since I like tulle lace so much. And I heard of a new edition of a book about threads that I want to order along with it, if it's already available at Barbara Fay's ;). I just hope I wont have to start the lace again because I did everything wrong ... it shall be the border of a lace pillow that will get a new felt inlay and cover. The pillow is 54 cm in diameter, so I'll have to do 170 cm (67 inches) lace for it. > I think that the first pinhole is there to go between the pair from the > little circle and the pair coming in from the left to become the > worker, just to give that worker pair something to be tensioned > against. I'll have to check when I'm back home from work, but I think that's exactly what I ended up doing, since everything else felt a bit awkward - I put the pin in before doing the stitch. Thanks a lot, Achim in Berlin - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Beginner's questions about Bucks point lace
Dear Achim,
- How many twists when entering a motif containing cloth stitch? I do one
twist, but I think I read there could be none at all (P. Nottingham?), so
that there's no gap between gimp and cloth stitch filling. So, coming with
the worker through the headside passive pairs, I twist twice, go through the
gimp ("lift left"), do one more twist and start cloth stitch. Right or wrong
or simply depending on taste?
I used to do what you are doing, but found from making Chantilly
lace, that the motif looked "better" to my eye, if I did NO twists
inside the gimp. That way the filling - whether it be whole or half
stitch - comes right up to the gimp.
And maybe I'm just too perfecionistic about my lace - I really want to do it
right! (Who said "anal"? - I heard that!).
You can't be :)
David in Ballarat
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[lace] Beginner's questions about Bucks point lace
As it's so unusual quiet here, I dare to ask some questions regarding Bucks,
especially pattern no. 30 (Helen, the straight variant without corners) from
"Stott, G.: A Visual Introduction To Bucks Point Lace" - probably some of
you have a copy of that book.
- How many twists should be between headside passive pairs and the gimp
surrounding a motif? I do two twists to make the motif stand out clearer.
- How many twists when entering a motif containing cloth stitch? I do one
twist, but I think I read there could be none at all (P. Nottingham?), so
that there's no gap between gimp and cloth stitch filling. So, coming with
the worker through the headside passive pairs, I twist twice, go through the
gimp ("lift left"), do one more twist and start cloth stitch. Right or wrong
or simply depending on taste?
- now something where you need to see the pattern mentioned: I cant figure
out how to do the first, i.e. topmost, pin/stitch in the "S" shaped motif
below the tiny "one pin circle". I come with two pairs into the motiv, twist
both pairs once (see question above) and then I should do cloth stitch. But
where and when do I put the pin?
If there wasn't a hole in the pricking, I'd just do a cloth stitch row and
put the first pin on the right after two stitches. But as is, I could put
the pin between the two pairs before making the stitch, or I could put it
between or even to the left of the pairs after making the first cloth
stitch. The technical drawing doesn't show the pin holes, so I cant decide
by that alone.
This particular start of that motif is different than all the others -
usually you begin a motif with a normal cloth stitch row (going through only
1 passive pair). Or can it be simply an error in the technical drawing?
Hopefully I could describe this sufficiently - if it's too unclear, I can
maybe put a picture of the particular spot in the technical drawing
somewhere on my website.
And maybe I'm just too perfecionistic about my lace - I really want to do it
right! (Who said "anal"? - I heard that!).
Thanks for all suggestions,
Achim in Berlin
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Re: [lace] Beginner's questions about Bucks point lace
Hello Achim
pattern no. 30 (Helen, the straight variant without corners) from
"Stott, G.: A Visual Introduction To Bucks Point Lace" - probably some
of
you have a copy of that book.
- How many twists should be between headside passive pairs and the gimp
surrounding a motif? I do two twists to make the motif stand out
clearer.
- How many twists when entering a motif containing cloth stitch? I do
one
twist, but I think I read there could be none at all (P. Nottingham?),
so
that there's no gap between gimp and cloth stitch filling. So, coming
with
the worker through the headside passive pairs, I twist twice, go
through the
gimp ("lift left"), do one more twist and start cloth stitch. Right or
wrong
or simply depending on taste?
This subject was covered quite extensively by the OIDFA Point Ground
group and and along with all the other minor variations in working
methods came to fruition as 'Point Ground Lace; a Comparative Study'
published by OIDFA in 2001.
- now something where you need to see the pattern mentioned: I cant
figure
out how to do the first, i.e. topmost, pin/stitch in the "S" shaped
motif
below the tiny "one pin circle". I come with two pairs into the motiv,
twist
both pairs once (see question above) and then I should do cloth
stitch. But
where and when do I put the pin?
If there wasn't a hole in the pricking, I'd just do a cloth stitch row
and
put the first pin on the right after two stitches. But as is, I could
put
the pin between the two pairs before making the stitch, or I could put
it
between or even to the left of the pairs after making the first cloth
stitch. The technical drawing doesn't show the pin holes, so I cant
decide
by that alone.
This particular start of that motif is different than all the others -
usually you begin a motif with a normal cloth stitch row (going
through only
1 passive pair). Or can it be simply an error in the technical drawing?
I think that the first pinhole is there to go between the pair from the
little circle and the pair coming in from the left to become the
worker, just to give that worker pair something to be tensioned
against.
Brenda in Allhallows, Kent
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html
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