Re: [MBZ] OT Linux Query
I only have one copy of WinXP on a Dell that came with the machine and it's screwed up; the WinXP disk says I have the wrong code even though the code is printed on the machine. Dell ignores my queries. Ran "keyfinder.com" and tried the codes it provided. They didn't work either. Don't want to dual boot on this Dell because of problems that have accumulated over the several years I've had it and don't want to buy a new copy of WinXP. I'll keep playing with the Linux distros and eventually learn my way around them. Thanks, Gerry From: "Wonko the Sane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Why don't you dual-boot? That's how I have my laptop configured. If I > need > XP (i.e., Joost) it is there to use -- but I normally work in Linux. > > On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 11:20 AM, archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> >> You can put me down for one half. I've been playing with half a dozen >> distros on another machine. As soon as I pick one and learn it as well >> as >> I >> know WinXP, I'll gradually switch from WinXP. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] fuel tax
> < litres per annum if we make it ourselves.>> > State or Federal? RLE ** Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod000301) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '87 300D shifter control rod bushings
I made a "special tool" for doing this with a bolt, nut, two large washers, and nut-like fitting for electrical conduit (don't know just what to call it). The conduit fitting is big enough to go over the bushing when it's in place. You assemble the parts in this order - bolt, big washer, conduit fitting, shift rod arm (the arm/lever the control rod goes into), new bushing, washer, nut. Align so that the conduit fitting will not keep the bushing from coming through the hole, and tighen the nut. Simple - if you have space to get to it! Guess I could take a picture tomorrow, if anyone wants it. On Sun, May 11, 2008 at 12:27 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I was just thinking about this job myself. Replaced the tail section on > the tranny of my 190D today, it needs new bushings but I dont have any. > Think I want to get that special tool that somebody came up with > before doing it. Where was that, on ebay? Anybody remember? > -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK "There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics." -Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain '90 300D (Rattled), '92 300D (Saber), ' '81 240D (Gramps), '97 Ply Grand Voyager (Vincent van-go) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '87 300D shifter control rod bushings
I was just thinking about this job myself. Replaced the tail section on the tranny of my 190D today, it needs new bushings but I dont have any. Think I want to get that special tool that somebody came up with before doing it. Where was that, on ebay? Anybody remember? OK Don wrote: > Both of the nylon bushings for the shifter control rod in my son's '87 > 300D were missing. The car had the loosest shifter that I've ever > felt. I'm surprised that it actually worked - the gates worked as > marked. Amazing. > Anyway, I had one spare nylon bushing - we installed it in the shifter > arm. It took a couple of hours to figure out the exact sequence, > placement, etc. to get it in. > Now for the tranny end of the control rod - I can just barely SEE the > lever it goes into, much less get a finger up there. That is a TIGHT > place to have to work! I'm thinking we might have to lower the rear of > the tranny to even have a chance of replacing that bushing. Might have > to remove the lever from the tranny, install the bushing, then > re-install the lever??? > Has anyone else BTDT??? > I've done this job on 115, 107, 126, 123 cars - this is the first 124, > and it has the least space to work of any of them, so far. > -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '87 300D shifter control rod bushings
Very good! Thanks! On Sat, May 10, 2008 at 10:38 PM, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Easy as pie. > > Just remember to put the rod back in before you put the lever back > on. I have scars all over the back of my left hand from the time I > put the rod in with the lever in place -- I guess I'm kinda dumb, > never did think of taking the lever off. My friend laughed at me, he > ALWAYS takes the lever off. > > You do need to drop both underbody panels, I think (the rear one at > least, and you have to take the front one off to get the rear one off). > > Peter > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK "There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics." -Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain '90 300D (Rattled), '92 300D (Saber), ' '81 240D (Gramps), '97 Ply Grand Voyager (Vincent van-go) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '87 300D shifter control rod bushings
Easy as pie. Just remember to put the rod back in before you put the lever back on. I have scars all over the back of my left hand from the time I put the rod in with the lever in place -- I guess I'm kinda dumb, never did think of taking the lever off. My friend laughed at me, he ALWAYS takes the lever off. You do need to drop both underbody panels, I think (the rear one at least, and you have to take the front one off to get the rear one off). Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '87 300D shifter control rod bushings
OK. So it is possible to do this without lowering the tranny? You can get to the pinch bolt? I've scarificed enough blodd to the MB gods - they don't need anymore! On Sat, May 10, 2008 at 10:24 PM, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Take the lever off the tranny -- unclip the rod, push it out > (remember which hole it goes in,,,), then remove the pinch bolt and > pull the lever off. Push in the new bushing, intsall the rod onto > the lever, then put the lever back on the tranny. > > You will mangle your hand otherwise. BTDT. > > Peter -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK "There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics." -Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain '90 300D (Rattled), '92 300D (Saber), ' '81 240D (Gramps), '97 Ply Grand Voyager (Vincent van-go) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '87 300D shifter control rod bushings
Take the lever off the tranny -- unclip the rod, push it out (remember which hole it goes in,,,), then remove the pinch bolt and pull the lever off. Push in the new bushing, intsall the rod onto the lever, then put the lever back on the tranny. You will mangle your hand otherwise. BTDT. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] SOS - "Sluggo" 1985 300CD
> Hey Tony, >As someone who also owns a 91 300D I was happy to hear how your 300 is > doing! At 150k miles I can look forward to many more miles of happy > motoring! I use Mobil 1 ATF and it shifts so smoothly I cannot feel it > unless I really try to detech the shifts. Same for all other systems. Now > that I hear you have 300k+ and things are still holding together well it > makes me think this might be the best MB we've owned. Sounds like the > clutch packs were on the way out in your tranny - > >One question, how hard would you say the tranny was to rebuild?? Maybe > on a scale ot > >My '91 had low miles when I bought her in Jan 06 at just 99k miles. It > just keeps getting better - it's got to be one of my favorite MBs! > >Thx for the info - > Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D) Larry, I've not driven another w124 chassis diesel, but compared to yours I'd guess the shifts on mine are more firm. Personally, I prefer it that way! For degree of difficulty its a matter of keeping clean, having lots of work space that won't mind exposure to ATF, some good documentation and keeping good track of the process. Take your time and keep things organized. I did mine when my wife and kids were out of town for a long weekend and could completely focus on the job. On a scale of 1-10 with 1 being 123 chassis brake pads, I'd guess this is a 7? That comes from experience with a bunch of other areas on these cars. In the last year I've done rear subframe mounts, ball joints, spring replacement and head gasket replacement on my M103 car. Compared to things like subframe mounts the transmission could be considered easier, as the work is straightforward, at least as compared to removing the old mounts! Having some decent tools is a great help. If you can't get the transmission out safely nothing else matters! I bought a transmission jack with a tilting table deck to make alignment a non issue and some 6 ton jack stands to get good clearance of the transmission once its down. While I thought the transmission jack would be a one time thing, I've found its great to lift my riding mower and I'm sure I'll find other uses as well. Now back together this car has impressed me. For some reason the 300d rides better than the 300e, and the D is a more relaxed driver with the available torque. I just might sell both and get a newer wagon, who knows. But it sure is an enjoyable car to drive. I also just found out that the ALDA still has the original cap; I think it would be even nicer adjusted ~ 1/2 turn CCW! Tony Wirtel '91 300d, '92 300e/2.6 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '87 300D shifter control rod bushings
Don't forget to do this with the hood UP. LWB250 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: > Get a jack under the tranny, drop the rear support, > lower the tranny as far as you can, then go to it. If > that doesn't give you enough room, take the lever off > the tranny. > > Dan > -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] SOS - "Sluggo" 1985 300CD
> > Tony, > What sort of pressures should they be? Andrew, Will send some info directly- Tony Wirtel ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '87 300D shifter control rod bushings
Get a jack under the tranny, drop the rear support, lower the tranny as far as you can, then go to it. If that doesn't give you enough room, take the lever off the tranny. Dan --- OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Both of the nylon bushings for the shifter control > rod in my son's '87 > 300D were missing. The car had the loosest shifter > that I've ever > felt. I'm surprised that it actually worked - the > gates worked as > marked. Amazing. > Anyway, I had one spare nylon bushing - we installed > it in the shifter > arm. It took a couple of hours to figure out the > exact sequence, > placement, etc. to get it in. > Now for the tranny end of the control rod - I can > just barely SEE the > lever it goes into, much less get a finger up there. > That is a TIGHT > place to have to work! I'm thinking we might have to > lower the rear of > the tranny to even have a chance of replacing that > bushing. Might have > to remove the lever from the tranny, install the > bushing, then > re-install the lever??? > Has anyone else BTDT??? > I've done this job on 115, 107, 126, 123 cars - this > is the first 124, > and it has the least space to work of any of them, > so far. > > -- > OK Don, KD5NRO > Norman, OK > "There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and > statistics." > -Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain > '90 300D (Rattled), '92 300D (Saber), ' '81 240D > (Gramps), '97 Ply > Grand Voyager (Vincent van-go) > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new parts see official list sponsor: > http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] '87 300D shifter control rod bushings
Both of the nylon bushings for the shifter control rod in my son's '87 300D were missing. The car had the loosest shifter that I've ever felt. I'm surprised that it actually worked - the gates worked as marked. Amazing. Anyway, I had one spare nylon bushing - we installed it in the shifter arm. It took a couple of hours to figure out the exact sequence, placement, etc. to get it in. Now for the tranny end of the control rod - I can just barely SEE the lever it goes into, much less get a finger up there. That is a TIGHT place to have to work! I'm thinking we might have to lower the rear of the tranny to even have a chance of replacing that bushing. Might have to remove the lever from the tranny, install the bushing, then re-install the lever??? Has anyone else BTDT??? I've done this job on 115, 107, 126, 123 cars - this is the first 124, and it has the least space to work of any of them, so far. -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK "There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics." -Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain '90 300D (Rattled), '92 300D (Saber), ' '81 240D (Gramps), '97 Ply Grand Voyager (Vincent van-go) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Anybody got a half-million mile diesel - with history?
My 1973 220D has about 800,000 miles but can't prove all of it since the odometer is broken and only goes to 99,999. Most of the mileage can be documented from several Lee Myles transmission rebuild receipts and testimony from original owner. I've had the car for 11 years and put 100,000 miles on it. I even drove it cross country and back in May 2003. I haven't driven it in 3 years as I'm doing major rust restoration (trunk floor, left quarter and have had to fabricate some pieces. Dimitri --- R A Bennell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I think he was suggesting that you add the 2 cars > together to get close to 500K. > > Randy > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of > Chuck Landenberger > Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 10:07 AM > To: Mercedes Discussion List; Andrew Strasfogel > Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anybody got a half-million mile > diesel - with > history? > > > Andrew, > > They are only middle-aged, at best... > > But who knows, the NYT has stretched the "truth" on > an occasion or > two, so maybe they could convinced that "almost" 300 > kmiles is close > to 500 kmiles. > > Thanks and take care > > Chuck > On May 9, 2008, at 8:57 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote: > > > Damn close: I have a 212 K 1985 300CD, plus a 282 > K 1983 300TD. > > > > On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 9:15 PM, Chuck Landenberger > > > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > >> Hi guys... > >> > >> The New York Times is looking for Half-Million > Mile Mercedes-Benz > >> Diesels.. An article is being developed > about high mileage MB's. > >> > >> > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new parts see official list sponsor: > http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new parts see official list sponsor: > http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] At 15p a litre, home-brew, biodiesel is fuel of the future
Would they do the same for ethanol?:-) On Sat, May 10, 2008 at 7:47 PM, Jeff Zedic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > If you read the article you'll notice that the gov't allows us 2500 > litres per annum if we make it ourselves. > > Zedic > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > -- LT Don http://don.homelinux.net/~don/ apt-get update apt-get upgrade The following packages will be replaced Prez Do you want to continue? [Y/n] Y ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] At 15p a litre, home-brew, biodiesel is fuel of the future
If you read the article you'll notice that the gov't allows us 2500 litres per annum if we make it ourselves. Zedic ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] At 15p a litre, home-brew,biodiesel is fuel of the future
I am sure the authorities will discover that this needs to be taxed at an exorbitant rate, can't have people doing something good now can we? --R http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2008/may/10/biofuels.alternativeenergy ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Lunch at Singleton's
All of you who wished you could have made it to lunch at Singleton's today certainly would have enjoyed it - and Rusty even bought the meal, a nice bonus in addition to fine company of Teri and Rusty [I could have gotten the lobster, if I weren't allergic to it.] When Manfred discovered he had to be home to watch his granddaughter that just left My Darling wife and me to reap the benefits of his largess. We can attest to the accuracy of your combined memories of at least the sea scallops, clams, crab sandwich and fish dip, and the friendly wait staff, and the rest of their food looked to be pretty good also. I even discovered yet one more beer that I don't especially like [that is a clean sweep since 1970, I've never had one that I actually liked]. Sorry the rest of you missed it, but we enjoyed it about enough for everyone. Thanks Rusty and Teri. BillR and his Darling Wife Sue ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 300D losing compression??
It seems the next step would be to check compression. Thanks, Tom Hargrave www.kegkits.com 256-656-1924 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Peter Merle Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 1:07 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 300D losing compression?? Engine was bored to 91.5mm ( Yes it is allowed check EPC and Mercedes OEM piston A6170301917 ) was used. HEad was redone using only OEM parts , including new guides all round . Oil consumption has increased from and initial 0.2 to approx 0.5 l /1000 km. Engineering shop was one that services the local Mercedes Dealership here in Capetown , South Africa so they should know what they are doing. Crank was sized up one repair size. Oil pressure is good ( 1.8 bar idle hot ) Running in used Dino oil initially ( 1000km ) and then switched to M1 . Valve clearances are all in spec. I am using DNOSD240 nozzles ( should really be using DNOSD220 nozzles as car is early 1979 ) . Shoud I do a major hill climb burnout? Add some magic potion to the fuel / oil? Peter 2008/5/10 Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: > If you don't have increased oil consuption, it's definitely the > valves, but if the valve guides were not installed and sized > correctly, you now have worn over-size guides, and the valve seats, > especially on the exhaust valves, are shot, causing low compression. > > The only way to tell is to do a proper leak-down test and see where > the compression is leaking out. > > On a Benz, you really MUST rebuild exactly to factory specs -- in the > case of the diesel this usually means new pistons, new liners, and > proper clearance --- 0.001" on the pistons (this is NOT a misprint) > and ZERO to 0.0005" on the valve guides. They are correct size if > you can barely get the valve in the guide by hand, oiled. They won't > go in dry. Any looser, and it will both burn oil and wear out much > faster. > > Also, you MUST use bronze exhaust guides on the 61x engines -- steel > ones wear out unblieveably fast (sometimes in less than 10,000 > miles), causing low compression, hard starts, and ruined exhaust valves. > > Crank can be ground twice before you go through the factory nitride > IF it's done correctly. The shop simply has to be using metric > measuring tools, calculated from SAE results in undersized crank > journals every time. > > Don't know the story of the rebuild -- what was the assembly > clearance on pistons, valve stems, main bearings, crankpin bearings? > New oil pump? > > Properly done, with correctly matched rings and liners (there are > several different materials, some are NOT compatible!) a 61x engine > ought to make 250,000 miles before it needs valves on Mobil 1. Lots > of low speed low load driving can sludge it up and cause the rings to > stick, but that's only a problem on a worn engine usually, and can be > cleared by a nice, hard drive on the interstate. Sadly, stuck rings > usually means worn out cylinder walls. > > Peter > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.14/1425 - Release Date: 5/9/2008 12:38 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.14/1425 - Release Date: 5/9/2008 12:38 PM ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 300D losing compression??
Check valve clearance, then run a few hundred km and check again -- if they close up, you nee to have them set "loose" and recheck each few hundred km until they quit closing up, then set to spec. Carbon builds up on the valve stems and will prevent them from fully closing if the clearance is too small. This carbon wears off quickly, but then the valves are tight again unless you left them deliberately loose. If the bores were sized correctly, I would suspect valve problems first, the bottom end on those engines is very sturdy. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 300D losing compression??
Engine was bored to 91.5mm ( Yes it is allowed check EPC and Mercedes OEM piston A6170301917 ) was used. HEad was redone using only OEM parts , including new guides all round . Oil consumption has increased from and initial 0.2 to approx 0.5 l /1000 km. Engineering shop was one that services the local Mercedes Dealership here in Capetown , South Africa so they should know what they are doing. Crank was sized up one repair size. Oil pressure is good ( 1.8 bar idle hot ) Running in used Dino oil initially ( 1000km ) and then switched to M1 . Valve clearances are all in spec. I am using DNOSD240 nozzles ( should really be using DNOSD220 nozzles as car is early 1979 ) . Shoud I do a major hill climb burnout? Add some magic potion to the fuel / oil? Peter 2008/5/10 Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: > If you don't have increased oil consuption, it's definitely the > valves, but if the valve guides were not installed and sized > correctly, you now have worn over-size guides, and the valve seats, > especially on the exhaust valves, are shot, causing low compression. > > The only way to tell is to do a proper leak-down test and see where > the compression is leaking out. > > On a Benz, you really MUST rebuild exactly to factory specs -- in the > case of the diesel this usually means new pistons, new liners, and > proper clearance --- 0.001" on the pistons (this is NOT a misprint) > and ZERO to 0.0005" on the valve guides. They are correct size if > you can barely get the valve in the guide by hand, oiled. They won't > go in dry. Any looser, and it will both burn oil and wear out much > faster. > > Also, you MUST use bronze exhaust guides on the 61x engines -- steel > ones wear out unblieveably fast (sometimes in less than 10,000 > miles), causing low compression, hard starts, and ruined exhaust valves. > > Crank can be ground twice before you go through the factory nitride > IF it's done correctly. The shop simply has to be using metric > measuring tools, calculated from SAE results in undersized crank > journals every time. > > Don't know the story of the rebuild -- what was the assembly > clearance on pistons, valve stems, main bearings, crankpin bearings? > New oil pump? > > Properly done, with correctly matched rings and liners (there are > several different materials, some are NOT compatible!) a 61x engine > ought to make 250,000 miles before it needs valves on Mobil 1. Lots > of low speed low load driving can sludge it up and cause the rings to > stick, but that's only a problem on a worn engine usually, and can be > cleared by a nice, hard drive on the interstate. Sadly, stuck rings > usually means worn out cylinder walls. > > Peter > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Electrical diagram 124
Does anyone have the ETM.PDF for the 124 chassis, pre-'93? If so, could you send it off-list? The 124 CD has a button for the electrical diagram, but there's no such file on the CDs. Thanks -- -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK "There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics." -Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain '90 300D (Rattled), '92 300D (Saber), ' '81 240D (Gramps), '97 Ply Grand Voyager (Vincent van-go) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] CDI engine cheap - somebody needs this!
"Junk" in the exhaust from the synthetic portions of the oil going through the driving turbine. What goes in the intake side gets blown into the combustion chamber, then comes out the exhaust side and spins the turbine. I guess you could apply the GIGO principle - except some of the output came from the injection nozzles also. On Sat, May 10, 2008 at 2:40 PM, Allan Streib <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > How could using BioD cause problems with the turbo? There is no fuel > in the turbo. > > Allan -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK "There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics." -Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain '90 300D (Rattled), '92 300D (Saber), ' '81 240D (Gramps), '97 Ply Grand Voyager (Vincent van-go) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] CDI engine cheap - somebody needs this!
How could using BioD cause problems with the turbo? There is no fuel in the turbo. Allan -- 1983 300D "Alex Chamberlain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: > I'd really like to hear the whole story here... > > http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/674165676.html > > Alex Chamberlain > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] SOS - "Sluggo" 1985 300CD
Tony, What sort of pressures should they be? On Sat, May 10, 2008 at 8:18 AM, Tony Wirtel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Andrew- > > Having recently been in and through the transmission of my '91 300d I > can GUARANTEE there are other parts and seals ready for replacement. > Many (but not all) o-rings were so brittle that they broke on removal. > At minimum, with the pump out you're 90% of the labor time/cost to go > in all the way and replace the clutches and at least examine the bands > for condition. On my car (with 306k miles) many of the friction > discs still has visible printing on them, but there were three (two in > the reverse K2 pack and one in K1) that were breaking down and worn to > the point where there were significant delays going into gear (~ 5-7 > seconds reverse, 2-3 forward). And this was in a car thats "only" 17 > years old! > > If your indy is good at these (they're not hard, just have to be > precise and work in a clean environment) the $600 differential is a > bargain. If the trans needs ANYTHING else it'll be close to $600 just > for R&R! That said, with the problem you describe if you do go the > indy route make sure he is aware of the process to drill out rivets > and then tap/replace with screws to renew one of the seals. I can't > remember when the change to rivets occurred, so your car may be > easier, but if there is an identified pump issue this is one definite > area to attend to. > > With all of that said, did the dealer tell you what the working > pressures were at? > > Tony WIrtel > w124 300d, 300e > > > > > Too late - like I say, the dealer's cappuccino rocks... > > > > We'll see how much time this simple replacement buys us. She only drives > > about 5k miles/year. > > > > On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 8:46 PM, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > >> If the pump is worn enough to not generate enough pressures, I suspect > >> that most other parts are similarly worn. At that price, I would not > >> stop at changing the pump. I'd do as the others have suggested - buy a > >> rebuilt from Rusty and have it installed. > >> > >> On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 10:37 AM, andrew strasfogel > >> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> > Hey stay focussed! This is NOT about either Clinton. > >> > > >> > Upon more rigorous road testing, the dealer ascertained that car > still > >> > refused to shift into 4th gear despite the linkage adjustment. > Further > >> shop > >> > testing diagnosed the front tranmission pump was leaking > (internally), > >> > thereby preventing adequate pressure to get the car to shift into > >> fourth. > >> > They claim that replacing the pump ($1300) will solve the problem. > This > >> is > >> > "cheaper" than a rebuild ($1900 at an indy shop) and way cheaper than > >> > installing a factory rebuilt transmission ($4500). > >> > Any advice or comment? SWMBO is leaning toward having them replace > the > >> > pump. > >> > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] used motor oil for fuel
i've heard too many reports about running motor oil through the engine being a bad thing, and that goes double for synthetics. i can't see where burning used motor oil could be good for economy when viewed against the cost of possible engine repairs, and it certainly can't be good for the environment. take it to a proper disposal site. cheers! e Wonko the Sane wrote: > I'm sure this has been discussed before in the past but I can't remember the > answer. > > I have a bucket (white lard bucket, what are those, about ten gallons?) full > of used motor oil sitting in my garage. Most of it is Mobil 1 -- all of it > is from doing oil changes in our cars and the motorcycle. > > Can't that be dumped -- a bit at a time -- into my 240D's fuel tank? If so, > at what ratio? I seem to that remember pouring a quart of motor oil into the > fuel tank occasionally was good for the car. > > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 300D losing compression??
If you don't have increased oil consuption, it's definitely the valves, but if the valve guides were not installed and sized correctly, you now have worn over-size guides, and the valve seats, especially on the exhaust valves, are shot, causing low compression. The only way to tell is to do a proper leak-down test and see where the compression is leaking out. On a Benz, you really MUST rebuild exactly to factory specs -- in the case of the diesel this usually means new pistons, new liners, and proper clearance --- 0.001" on the pistons (this is NOT a misprint) and ZERO to 0.0005" on the valve guides. They are correct size if you can barely get the valve in the guide by hand, oiled. They won't go in dry. Any looser, and it will both burn oil and wear out much faster. Also, you MUST use bronze exhaust guides on the 61x engines -- steel ones wear out unblieveably fast (sometimes in less than 10,000 miles), causing low compression, hard starts, and ruined exhaust valves. Crank can be ground twice before you go through the factory nitride IF it's done correctly. The shop simply has to be using metric measuring tools, calculated from SAE results in undersized crank journals every time. Don't know the story of the rebuild -- what was the assembly clearance on pistons, valve stems, main bearings, crankpin bearings? New oil pump? Properly done, with correctly matched rings and liners (there are several different materials, some are NOT compatible!) a 61x engine ought to make 250,000 miles before it needs valves on Mobil 1. Lots of low speed low load driving can sludge it up and cause the rings to stick, but that's only a problem on a worn engine usually, and can be cleared by a nice, hard drive on the interstate. Sadly, stuck rings usually means worn out cylinder walls. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] SOS - "Sluggo" 1985 300CD
Hey Tony, As someone who also owns a 91 300D I was happy to hear how your 300 is doing! At 150k miles I can look forward to many more miles of happy motoring! I use Mobil 1 ATF and it shifts so smoothly I cannot feel it unless I really try to detech the shifts. Same for all other systems. Now that I hear you have 300k+ and things are still holding together well it makes me think this might be the best MB we've owned. Sounds like the clutch packs were on the way out in your tranny - One question, how hard would you say the tranny was to rebuild?? Maybe on a scale ot My '91 had low miles when I bought her in Jan 06 at just 99k miles. It just keeps getting better - it's got to be one of my favorite MBs! Thx for the info - Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net 800-583-8601 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs - Original Message - From: "Tony Wirtel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 8:18 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] SOS - "Sluggo" 1985 300CD > Andrew- > > Having recently been in and through the transmission of my '91 300d I > can GUARANTEE there are other parts and seals ready for replacement. > Many (but not all) o-rings were so brittle that they broke on removal. > At minimum, with the pump out you're 90% of the labor time/cost to go > in all the way and replace the clutches and at least examine the bands > for condition. On my car (with 306k miles) many of the friction > discs still has visible printing on them, but there were three (two in > the reverse K2 pack and one in K1) that were breaking down and worn to > the point where there were significant delays going into gear (~ 5-7 > seconds reverse, 2-3 forward). And this was in a car thats "only" 17 > years old! > > If your indy is good at these (they're not hard, just have to be > precise and work in a clean environment) the $600 differential is a > bargain. If the trans needs ANYTHING else it'll be close to $600 just > for R&R! That said, with the problem you describe if you do go the > indy route make sure he is aware of the process to drill out rivets > and then tap/replace with screws to renew one of the seals. I can't > remember when the change to rivets occurred, so your car may be > easier, but if there is an identified pump issue this is one definite > area to attend to. > > With all of that said, did the dealer tell you what the working > pressures were at? > > Tony WIrtel > w124 300d, 300e > >> >> Too late - like I say, the dealer's cappuccino rocks... >> >> We'll see how much time this simple replacement buys us. She only drives >> about 5k miles/year. >> >> On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 8:46 PM, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> >>> If the pump is worn enough to not generate enough pressures, I suspect >>> that most other parts are similarly worn. At that price, I would not >>> stop at changing the pump. I'd do as the others have suggested - buy a >>> rebuilt from Rusty and have it installed. >>> >>> On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 10:37 AM, andrew strasfogel >>> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >>> > Hey stay focussed! This is NOT about either Clinton. >>> > >>> > Upon more rigorous road testing, the dealer ascertained that car >>> > still >>> > refused to shift into 4th gear despite the linkage adjustment. >>> > Further >>> shop >>> > testing diagnosed the front tranmission pump was leaking >>> > (internally), >>> > thereby preventing adequate pressure to get the car to shift into >>> fourth. >>> > They claim that replacing the pump ($1300) will solve the problem. >>> > This >>> is >>> > "cheaper" than a rebuild ($1900 at an indy shop) and way cheaper than >>> > installing a factory rebuilt transmission ($4500). >>> > Any advice or comment? SWMBO is leaning toward having them replace >>> > the >>> > pump. >>> > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 300D losing compression??
Peter wrote about losing compression, etc -- I rebuilt my 240D about the same time. Did you also replace the cylinder sleeves? Also, this doesn't apply to lost compression but was the crank turned? Was it re-nitrided? I hear it's impossible to find a shop that can nitride properly. As you no doubt know, loss of compression is almost always due to ring wear - unless the valves or valve guides are worn. I assume you or a shop did the head at the time you were rebuilding the engine? Out of curiosity, how did you break it in? When I did mine I used a quality dino oil my machine shop recommended, then switched to Mobil 1 after 1200 miles. For break-in I got rollong at about 25-30mph then accelerated hard up to 55 or so, then release the accelerator and coast doen to 20-25mph - repeat a dozen times or more. Also, don't drive at steady speeds. All that's just FYI, it certainly doesn't help now. You're right to think the M1 should have protected you much longer than 70K -- personally, I don't think your driving is the cause. As far as what you can do to reverse things? I suggest some long trips. Maybe try some trips of, say, 5 hours away from home on the interstate where you can drive at 70mph or so for the whole time, avoiding congested areas then the same 5 hours back. Once or twice a month perhaps on every other weekend? Several months of that will with either improve things or wear it out - Good luck -- Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net 800-583-8601 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs - Original Message - From: "Rich Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 11:46 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 300D losing compression?? > It's all goobered up. You gotta go drive it flat out for like 2000 > miles up hill, a Gumball Rally kind of thing. > > --R > > Peter Merle wrote: >> My W123 300D seems to be slowly deteriorating. Oil consumption has >> increased >> , compression is down to min 16 bar. I had overhauled this engine myself >> about 4 years and 7km ago . Did all the correct stuff , new pistons , >> timing chain , oil pump etc etc , pump recalibrated , injectors checked >> and >> set to 130bar , . Been running on Mobil1 so I am very upset about the >> state >> of events. I can only thing that perhaps is the moderate driving that >> has >> contributed as my regular trips is a 20 minute drive to work at a cruise >> of >> 60 - 80 km/h . Everynow and again I would give stick up a long hill on >> the >> way home . >> >> Any thoughts of perhaps getting compression up again ? >> Peter >> ___ >> http://www.okiebenz.com >> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ >> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com >> >> >> > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] CDI engine cheap - somebody needs this!
He wrote <> Just got back using my "Way Back Machine" - all those years watching Rocky & Bullwinkle helped after all. ;-) I was going to offer $50 but he only posted the ad yesterday so there was no ad by the end of last week! All that time travel wasted. Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net 800-583-8601 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs - Original Message - From: "Kevin Kraly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 3:13 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] CDI engine cheap - somebody needs this! > Is he in some sort of time warp? > > **I will accept the best cash offer I get for the engine by the end of > last > week.** > > Seriously, what's going on, and WHY would he have gotten the engine back? > I > would have thought that Mercedes would want to rip it apart to analyze it. > This is assuming that he didn't pay out of pocket to correct the matter. > > Kevin in Hillsboro, OR > 1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Memeories
"Does your dawg bite? "I thought you said your dawg did not bite?" "That is not my dawg." Dan --- Rick Knoble <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Shades of The Pink Panther. > > > > RLE > > Thanks. I will have that sax playing in my head the > rest of the day... > > Rick Knoble > '85 300 CD > '87 190 DT > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new parts see official list sponsor: > http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Memeories
> Shades of The Pink Panther. > > RLE Thanks. I will have that sax playing in my head the rest of the day... Rick Knoble '85 300 CD '87 190 DT ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Topsider and ATF
MG wrote: > > That said, no matter if you take the pan off or suck the oil out you > still won't change any more oil than about 1/3 to maybe 1/2 depending on > the size of the converter. What I'd do on a new to me car with unknown crap in the pan: I'd buy a filter/gasket kit. Unhook the cooling line into the radiator. Maybe give the radiator a shot of air to blow the oil in it back to the pan. Put a clear hose on the cooling line, start the car, and run it until bubbles appear. Shut off the car, pull the pan, change the filter, dump a gallon of fluid in. Run the engine until the fluid comes out clear, now you've got a converter full of new fluid. Hook up the line to the radiator, finish filling the tranny. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] SOS - "Sluggo" 1985 300CD
Andrew- Having recently been in and through the transmission of my '91 300d I can GUARANTEE there are other parts and seals ready for replacement. Many (but not all) o-rings were so brittle that they broke on removal. At minimum, with the pump out you're 90% of the labor time/cost to go in all the way and replace the clutches and at least examine the bands for condition. On my car (with 306k miles) many of the friction discs still has visible printing on them, but there were three (two in the reverse K2 pack and one in K1) that were breaking down and worn to the point where there were significant delays going into gear (~ 5-7 seconds reverse, 2-3 forward). And this was in a car thats "only" 17 years old! If your indy is good at these (they're not hard, just have to be precise and work in a clean environment) the $600 differential is a bargain. If the trans needs ANYTHING else it'll be close to $600 just for R&R! That said, with the problem you describe if you do go the indy route make sure he is aware of the process to drill out rivets and then tap/replace with screws to renew one of the seals. I can't remember when the change to rivets occurred, so your car may be easier, but if there is an identified pump issue this is one definite area to attend to. With all of that said, did the dealer tell you what the working pressures were at? Tony WIrtel w124 300d, 300e > > Too late - like I say, the dealer's cappuccino rocks... > > We'll see how much time this simple replacement buys us. She only drives > about 5k miles/year. > > On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 8:46 PM, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> If the pump is worn enough to not generate enough pressures, I suspect >> that most other parts are similarly worn. At that price, I would not >> stop at changing the pump. I'd do as the others have suggested - buy a >> rebuilt from Rusty and have it installed. >> >> On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 10:37 AM, andrew strasfogel >> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> > Hey stay focussed! This is NOT about either Clinton. >> > >> > Upon more rigorous road testing, the dealer ascertained that car still >> > refused to shift into 4th gear despite the linkage adjustment. Further >> shop >> > testing diagnosed the front tranmission pump was leaking (internally), >> > thereby preventing adequate pressure to get the car to shift into >> fourth. >> > They claim that replacing the pump ($1300) will solve the problem. This >> is >> > "cheaper" than a rebuild ($1900 at an indy shop) and way cheaper than >> > installing a factory rebuilt transmission ($4500). >> > Any advice or comment? SWMBO is leaning toward having them replace the >> > pump. >> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 300D loosing compression??
Valve adjustments done on schedule? Did the breakin with dino oil? Did you have the cylinders bored and then how fine was the final hone job on them? Manfred Message: 5 Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 18:35:12 +0200 From: "Peter Merle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [MBZ] W123 300D loosing compression?? To: "Mercedes Discussion List" Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 My W123 300D seems to be slowly deteriorating. Oil consumption has increased , compression is down to min 16 bar. I had overhauled this engine myself about 4 years and 7km ago . Did all the correct stuff , new pistons , timing chain , oil pump etc etc , pump recalibrated , injectors checked and set to 130bar , . Been running on Mobil1 so I am very upset about the state of events. I can only thing that perhaps is the moderate driving that has contributed as my regular trips is a 20 minute drive to work at a cruise of 60 - 80 km/h . Everynow and again I would give stick up a long hill on the way home . Any thoughts of perhaps getting compression up again ? Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] used motor oil for fuel
I put in oil all the time, up too a quart per 10 gal. I have just over 50,000 miles with no problems so far. My view is that there are two filters that the fuel goes through before it gets to the pump. If the MB engineers in their infinite wisdom deemed that anything that passes through the final filter will not harm the pump (otherwise why have one that passes that size particle) then the only remaining problem is having to change the filters a bit more often then normal which is what I have found to be the case. Coking would only be a problem for those who do just short trips all the time, like the lady I bought mine from. 1-3 miles per day does not work for a diesel. Manfred Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 18:45:38 -0600 From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sure, go ahead, if you want to crack a ring or something. I tried that in a wagon I had. After a while, all the sudden no compression in a couple of cylinders. I would not risk it, there is all kinds of nasty crap in that oil. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Topsider and ATF
Donald, It should work as long as you can get a tube all the way down to the bottom of the pan because the dipstick tube only goes into the case and maybe a couple of inches beyond. That usually leaves an inch to an inch and a half to the bottom of the pan. The only drawbacks are; 1. There is usually a whole lot of crud in the bottom of the pan that will be left in there that you won't be able to wipe out. 2. You won't be able to see if there are a bunch of large metal flakes or even flakes of clutch material in the pan. That would indicate that the tranny is maybe in poor health. 3. You can't change the filter. If it is kind of clogged then the pump can't pick up enough oil and the pressure in the tranny goes down causing shift problems and more wear as the clutches are held engaged by the high pressure from the pump. That's why it's a good idea to change the oil in a tranny every 25-35000 miles. That said, no matter if you take the pan off or suck the oil out you still won't change any more oil than about 1/3 to maybe 1/2 depending on the size of the converter. The only way to change most of the oil is if the converter has a drain plug like my 83 300D. I am not familiar enough with the other models and years to know which may have them. I am almost certain that your Buick will not have a drain plug. Just another reason to change the oil at 25-35 thou. Rich, you didn't get all of the fluid out especially if the tranny had the deeper pan on it. A lot of the GM trucks and Suburbans came with those as it helped the old 700R4 last a bit longer. Any which way it's not a good idea as far as I'm concerned. Not too humble about that one am I? ;-) Manfred Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 16:00:14 -0500 From: Donald Snook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [MBZ] Topsider and ATF was Re: SOS - "Sluggo" 1985 300CD To: "mercedes@okiebenz.com" Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Randy wrote: "Don't you just use your $2 super sucker and clean it out through the fill tube?" This raises a question that I had the other day. Somebody mentioned using the topsider to change transmission fluid. But, how do know how much to put back in? Do you have to take a quart measuring device to figure how much you sucked out? Also, you are only going to get out whatever was in the pan, do you then just change it a few months later to ensure that you have changed most of the fluid? I am interested in doing this on my $500 Buick. P.S. I don't have the two dollar super sucker, I have the hand pump self-contained Top Sider. I assume it will work also. It worked to change the oil in my 126 and to change the power steering fluid both of our cars. Donald H. Snook ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] used motor oil for fuel
Who is "They" ? You live in a municipality that spreads used crankcase oil on the road. Wow, I thought we figured out that was bad when we stared finding heavy metals in our water supply. -- Regards, Peter T. Arnold 2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 20Kmi, No problems! 1987 300SDL 286 KMI Now lives with Dave Walton, Cleveland Ohio 1995 F-250 PowerChoke 199Kmi 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen Wife has a Cruizer, 89 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is! On Fri, 9 May 2008 23:43:13 -0700, you wrote: >> Your putting what into your ground water? > >50 feet away they oil the road. Don't see a heck of >a lot of difference. I put it on a lot thinner, it >stays up top where the weather can get at it, doesn't >soak way down in. > >-- Jim > > >___ >http://www.okiebenz.com >For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ >For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] CDI engine cheap - somebody needs this!
On Sat, May 10, 2008 at 12:13 AM, Kevin Kraly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Is he in some sort of time warp? > > **I will accept the best cash offer I get for the engine by the end of last > week.** Ha ha, I didn't notice that! I just want to know what running biodiesel has to do with a turbo failure. There is a lot about these newfangled diesel engines that I don't understand, but if the turbo in the CDI is anything like the variable-displacement unit in a VW TDI, it is more complicated than the turbo in an old Benz but still probably one of the less sensitive parts of the engine to fuel quality and/or contamination issues. Is it possible that the engine failed in some catastrophic way, and he made the mistake of admitting to the dealer that he had been running bio, whereupon they told him the warranty was void and made him buy a new engine? (Thereby explaining why the old one is sitting on a pallet and his to resell.) Alex ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] CDI engine cheap - somebody needs this!
Is he in some sort of time warp? **I will accept the best cash offer I get for the engine by the end of last week.** Seriously, what's going on, and WHY would he have gotten the engine back? I would have thought that Mercedes would want to rip it apart to analyze it. This is assuming that he didn't pay out of pocket to correct the matter. Kevin in Hillsboro, OR 1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
