Re: [MBZ] W108 suspension - compensator spring kit FYI

2008-11-22 Thread David Bruckmann
The steel spring is INSTEAD OF the hydropneumatic compensator. It is one or the 
other.

Jim Cathey wrote:

 I've never quite understood why MB chose this particular design; the 
 axle is sprung at the wheels anyway, and the trunk mount keeps the 
 diff secured, so I don't quite understand the point of the extra 
 spring.

To wrap some protection around the hydro-compensator?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] OT Obama stickers for the missus

2008-11-22 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Agreed.  I do have the same issue with my mail at home.  I always take my 
packages to the PO so I guess that helps.

Mike
-Original Message-
Date: Friday, November 21, 2008 10:38:15 pm
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Obama stickers for the missus

[EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 I have to disagree.. I make my living selling and shipping
 parts.USPS has a better track record than ANY of the other
 carriers.

It all depends on your local carrier.  I don't think anything is likely
to get lost between post offices with the USPS (though it COULD happen),
but the last leg to the destination seems to depend on the local
carrier.  I get mail for my neighbors, or the guy one street over who
has the same house number, a LOT more often than seems reasonable.  And
I wonder how much of MY mail ends up elsewhere...

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

2008-11-22 Thread Bill R
That might well end up being what is needed.  The problem is that it is in
the corner of the kitchen at the deep end of a 6' cabinet.  You have to
clean out the cabinet and climb inside it in order to get to where it goes
into the wall, and the elbow is inside the wall.  I'm afraid we would have
to remove the stove and cut out the side of the cabinet to get in there.
Not the worst thing in the world.  It sure would be nice to have way into
the pipe, though.
BillR
  

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Allan Streib
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 9:41 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

Cut the pipe after the bend and install a cleanout wye, snake it from
there.  Or replace the 90 down bend with a tee and fit a cleanout plug
on the top of the tee.

   vcleanout plug
 |---|
 |   |
 |   +
 | 
 |   +
 |   |
 |   |
 |   |

Bill R [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 First, let me say we have some weird things in our home.   The kitchen
drain
 is at the start of what might well be its own line to the septic tank.
The
 trap leads back to the front wall of the house, then does a 90 turn
 expanding to a 2.5 or 3 copper pipe that has a flat 8' run, then does a
90
 down [it is copper into the wall, no idea what material beyond that]  then
 it is in a direct line with the septic tank, but would need to go either
 under or around the master bedroom/bath, and might tap in there. The
 kitchen sink started to back up, so I am at it with my snake [which will
go
 as far as the 90 down turn] and that hits nothing.  Next is the expanding
 ball that I use to blow out clogs.  That will run for as long as I want,
but
 that only mimics a slow drain, and makes no difference to a slow leak.
The
 sink backs up after a 30 seconds of the water being turned on, then drains
 down slowly.   Friendly local hardware store sold me copper sulfate to
kill
 what sounded like roots clogging the line.  Now the problem:  The first
 warning on the copper sulfate is to use it only in a toilet, and not to
use
 it in a sink or tub as it will corrode the metal drain.  I can protect the
 sink drain if the chrome finish on that is the only problem, but is there
 any chance the copper sulfate would damage a copper pipe or the metal
pipes
 under the sink?  Doesn't seem like it would, but this sort of thing is not
 my field, and I would really hate to have to replace the big copper pipe
 that runs behind my tiled in  kitchen cabinets.

 Ideas appreciated - TIA

 BillR

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Re: [MBZ] OT: inverter/battery charger

2008-11-22 Thread Mak
Do keep in mind that the inverters are modified sine wave units ,not pure 
sine wave.
Some power supplies do not take kindly to that and reboot the system 
repeatedly.

24 V or 48 are the better ones for house  use.
mak
- Original Message - 
From: Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 10:55 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Harbor Freight inverter/battery charger



On Thu, Nov 20, 2008 at 7:19 PM, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I saw this in the local HF store and thought it looked like a pretty
fun toy.  I've seen these combination inverter/chargers designed to
run your whole house, marketed to the off-the-grid folks for major
bucks, but never one this small or cheap.  On the side you can't see
in the picture, it has both a 120 VAC input and screw terminals for a
12V battery.


If it's 12V, it's not a serious whole-house thing.  A car-battery
sized AGM (or whatever) is only good for maybe 1kW of output power.
All the bigger systems I know of are 24V or 48V.  Mine are all 48V.


Yeah, I wasn't thinking of running the whole house on it---more like
about 300W or so ( a low power micro-ATX PC, other misc electronics,
some fluorescent lights).  The batteries would go in the shop in an
airtight enclosure along an outside wall, with a vent to the outside.

So like OK Don say, will hooking up the solar charge controller
directly to the battery along with the charge/discharge terminals from
the charger/inverter cause havoc?  I know there are big, expensive
multiple-source charge controllers for whole-house systems, but the
idea here is for a cheap hack...

Alex

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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.9/1802 - Release Date: 11/20/2008 
7:28 PM



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Re: [MBZ] OT, vista again

2008-11-22 Thread Douglas
I think that alot of MS problem with Vista stems from when it came out there 
were many computer users that had less that 2 gig of RAM installed in them 
that were trying to use Vista.


From what I have noticed with 2-4 gigs of ram on a decent cpu and video card 
it seems to run fine. Though I have not used it myself! Though I do know 
that microsoft is not going to support XP very much longer.
Which is the reason I have been slowly looking into what I am going to be 
using when they stop XP


Douglas


Anybody know anything about the Enterprise version? Looks like it has 
multiple activations, but wondered if anybody has used it, what features 
it has etc.

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] OT, vista again

2008-11-22 Thread E M
I use Vista on a new computer with 2 gb or RAM.  It does seem to be very RAM
hungry, and also takes a fair bit of space on the HD.  Having said that,
almost all my previous computers were Macs, so I'm newish to PCs.  Seems to
work ok, other than is seems rather inefficient in how works.

A friend bought a new pc last week, and they are now offering XP as a option
downgrade, which they swore a year ago there was no way.  I think MS might
keep XP on offer, until a new verion of Vista comes out, or a replacement.

Whether Vista is as bad as most say or not, I don't know, I'm not a techie
guy.  I know it's been given the death kiss by the public, so whether it's
wise to keep trying to market something that most think is crap, might be
good money after bad.

Ed
300E

2008/11/22 Douglas [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 I think that alot of MS problem with Vista stems from when it came out
 there were many computer users that had less that 2 gig of RAM installed in
 them that were trying to use Vista.

  From what I have noticed with 2-4 gigs of ram on a decent cpu and video
 card

 it seems to run fine. Though I have not used it myself! Though I do know
 that microsoft is not going to support XP very much longer.
 Which is the reason I have been slowly looking into what I am going to be
 using when they stop XP

 Douglas


  Anybody know anything about the Enterprise version? Looks like it has
 multiple activations, but wondered if anybody has used it, what features it
 has etc.
 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
  87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
  84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
 http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Well, now, it's official ...

2008-11-22 Thread E M
When pumping premium into the 300E the other day, I peeked over at diesel
here.  It was something like $1.70 per litre!  I remember when it was always
a bit cheaper than regular.  I think the days when there are savings to be
had by running a diesel are gone.

Ed
300E

2008/11/22 Kevin Kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Yes, Craig.  This is the biggest spread between gas and diesel I've seen
 since I've owned diesels.  I think that the Dodge CTD pickup truck will be
 sitting idle in exchange for my parents' '05 Chrysler TC minivan which sits
 most of the time.

 .It's less expensive to drive our 15 mpg Big Red Van with gasoline at
 $1.979/ gallon than it is to drive our 23 mpg 240D/3.0 with diesel at
 $3.189.

 Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
 1983 300sd 267Kmi, Ursula

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Fed Reserve News

2008-11-22 Thread Bill R
Allan - the only radio I ever have on is NPR, so I really don't know what
the 'right wing radio' is saying.  I do know that the last guy I talked
about this with is a devotee of Rush. 
BillR

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Allan Streib
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 8:35 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Fed Reserve News

Bill R [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Reminds me of a few conversations I have recently with folks who
 insist Bush has had no real part in the financial problems of our
 country.  It was all Clinton's fault, and by the way, going into
 Serbia/Croatia/etc. was equivalent to Iraq.  Clinton was the warmonger
 also.  Is this what the right-wing radio folks are putting out these
 days?

Do you listen to right wing radio?

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Well, now, it's official ...

2008-11-22 Thread Curt Raymond
I've been driving the 18mpg Dodge Dakota while waiting to get the new diff into 
the 38mpg 190D 2.2l, its killing both my pocket book and my soul. My commute is 
1 hour each way and the 190D is so much more pleasant. The Dakota is more 
powerful but I enjoy the 190D more... Maybe I should get that 190D 2.5T and 
even out the more powerful part.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 23:36:52 -0500
From: Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Well, now, it's official ...
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I paid $2.05 for premium for the Caddy today, diesel was $2.71, reg 
$1.85.  I think last time I put gas in the Caddy it was $4something.  
Guess I should take Brunnhilde for some fuel soon, though it will 
probably keep dropping.

--R

Craig McCluskey wrote:
 It's less expensive to drive our 15 mpg Big Red Van with gasoline at
 $1.979/ gallon than it is to drive our 23 mpg 240D/3.0 with diesel at
 $3.189.


 Craig

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[MBZ] 300SD hard to start

2008-11-22 Thread Hans Neureiter
Ever since I have that NEW engine put in my car, I noticed that it is hard
starting even in warm weather.
It has to crank quite a bit. Two or three pre-glows help. It fires
instantly, but does not stay running at first.
Lots of smoke for may be a minute. Than it clears out and runs smooth.
Starts quick when engine is warm.
Engine smokes some on hard acceleration.
All 5 glow plugs check good (0.6 Ohm). Fuel mileage is 22 - 24 MPG. 0-100
KPH  20 sec.
No fuel leaks visible at the primer pump or anywhere else.
Blow-by is normal.
Would a diesel purge help?
-- 
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D
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Re: [MBZ] W108 suspension - compensator spring kit FYI

2008-11-22 Thread Loren Faeth



The ride of the hydropneumatic was always better than the ride with 
the spring that was used in the 110 cars.  30 years ago, I was always 
scrounging the junkyards for a good hydropneumatic compensator for my 
110 200D.  I never found one.  I from time to time loaded the 
Man-cave known as the 110/111 trunk heavily, and I didn't like the 
sagging.  THey Hydrop. compensator, the predecessor to SLS, would 
pump up over bumps and stabilize the ride position of the body, 
eliminating the sag of a fully loaded trunk.


I compensated by adding AirLift airbags in the rear springs.  Not 
auto-levelling, but a workable fix.


The increased ground clearance spring is for taxi and autocross 
use.  Not what I'd specify for a sedan in normal use.  I think you 
will like the softer spring better.



At 07:50 PM 11/21/2008, you wrote:

Gang,

I'm curious to know whether others have noticed that a W108 with the 
steel compensator spring rides harder than a W108 with a *properly 
functioning* hydropneumatic compensator.


I removed the dead hydropneumatic compensator from my W108 a couple 
of months ago, and at the same time ripped out the crappy Midas 
shocks that some sadist installed, replacing them with new Bilsteins 
(thank you Rusty). I also replaced the axle support bushing in the 
trunk and the brake lines.


The process was relatively easy. The key tip is that you need to 
disconnect the brake lines and let the rear axle halves hang as low 
as they will go (lower them GENTLY or you can crack the diff 
casing). With the axles lowered you can lever the spring in place 
(put one of the mounting bracket bolts in place, place the spring, 
and then pivot the mounting bracket (this could require considerable 
force) into position to insert the other mounting bolt.


But I digresss.

I was expecting the rock-hard ride to convert to a lovely wafting 
W123-like experience. Not so. It is somewhat softer, but still very 
hard. And the car is also sitting a little too high. Before changing 
the compensator, the car was sitting too low.


My first suspicion was the new shocks, and they remain a possible 
culprit. They are HD, but HD is the only shock specified or 
available for the W108 on both the Bilstein and Sachs lists. Even 
the MB EPC has subbed in the HD shocks, so presumably if softer ones 
ever were available they are now unavailable.


My next culprit is the compensating spring. Some detective work on 
the EPC and on the Febi packaging revealed that the conversion kit 
includes a harder, thicker spring 110 329 05 01 originally intended 
for vehicles with increased ground clearance. There is a softer 
spring available from MB.


So this morning I went to my friendly (no, really!) local MB dealer 
and ordered the softer commpensating spring 110 329 04 01.


Anyway, I will try installing the new spring and will let you all 
know how it turns out. At the very least it should bring the car 
down a couple of centimetres. For $90 it's worth a try.


I've never quite understood why MB chose this particular design; the 
axle is sprung at the wheels anyway, and the trunk mount keeps the 
diff secured, so I don't quite understand the point of the extra spring.


D.

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Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] 300SD hard to start

2008-11-22 Thread Jim Cathey

It has to crank quite a bit. Two or three pre-glows help. It fires
instantly, but does not stay running at first.


If you hand-prime it first, does it make any difference?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Well, now, it's official ...

2008-11-22 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Fri, 21 Nov 2008 22:06:28 -0600 OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 You'd have to get 19mpg in the big red van to break even with the 32mpg
 Diesel.

I have a spreadsheet in which I have been tracking all of this. The
figure is 19.86, actually. And if I ran a vehicle on premium (at $$2.179),
it would have to get better than 21.87. According to Kaleb, the E420 I
bought from him will do 26 if I take it easy ...


Craig 

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Re: [MBZ] OT Obama stickers for the missus

2008-11-22 Thread Loren Faeth
Lots of stuff used to disappear in the Chicago SCF.  I used to use 
alternates if the parcel was likely to go through chicago.  It seems 
to have been cleaned up many years ago.  no problems recently.


At 09:38 PM 11/21/2008, you wrote:

[EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 I have to disagree.. I make my living selling and shipping
 parts.USPS has a better track record than ANY of the other
 carriers.

It all depends on your local carrier.  I don't think anything is likely
to get lost between post offices with the USPS (though it COULD happen),
but the last leg to the destination seems to depend on the local
carrier.  I get mail for my neighbors, or the guy one street over who
has the same house number, a LOT more often than seems reasonable.  And
I wonder how much of MY mail ends up elsewhere...

Allan
--
1983 300D

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Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

2008-11-22 Thread Loren Faeth
The warning about the toilet is because it is all ceramic.  Copper 
sulfate, when mixed with water forms a dilute sulfuric acid.  You can 
use it in mild steel (galvanized iron) pipes, but you will notice the 
inside is scoured over time.


You can dump it down your kitchen sink in the following ways:
1. If your drain is all Stainless steel
2.  If you put the copper sulfate crystals down into the drain 
itself, without touching any chrome plated parts.
3.  If your drain(s) are already showing wear, and the action of an 
acid won't particularly deteriorate the appearance.


Orchards are typically sprayed while dormant with copper sulfate to 
kill fungi and bacteria such as causes fire blight.  For the first 
few sprays in the spring, we got a lot of rust clogging nozzles, but 
after 2 or 3 copper sprays, the insides of the pipes was clean and 
shiny.  The sprayer plumbing typically lasted 30 to 40 years.


You can also plumb in a Y or T as previously described.

All that said, i don't thinkit is really any worse than liquid 
plumber type drain cleaners, as long as you don't let the copper 
sulfate touch the metal parts for a prolonged time.  If you dump it 
down the drain with water running, there should be no damage.  You 
don't want to let it back up into the sink and sit for 10-15 minutes or hours.


At 08:31 PM 11/21/2008, you wrote:

First, let me say we have some weird things in our home.   The kitchen drain
is at the start of what might well be its own line to the septic tank.  The
trap leads back to the front wall of the house, then does a 90 turn
expanding to a 2.5 or 3 copper pipe that has a flat 8' run, then does a 90
down [it is copper into the wall, no idea what material beyond that]  then
it is in a direct line with the septic tank, but would need to go either
under or around the master bedroom/bath, and might tap in there. The
kitchen sink started to back up, so I am at it with my snake [which will go
as far as the 90 down turn] and that hits nothing.  Next is the expanding
ball that I use to blow out clogs.  That will run for as long as I want, but
that only mimics a slow drain, and makes no difference to a slow leak.  The
sink backs up after a 30 seconds of the water being turned on, then drains
down slowly.   Friendly local hardware store sold me copper sulfate to kill
what sounded like roots clogging the line.  Now the problem:  The first
warning on the copper sulfate is to use it only in a toilet, and not to use
it in a sink or tub as it will corrode the metal drain.  I can protect the
sink drain if the chrome finish on that is the only problem, but is there
any chance the copper sulfate would damage a copper pipe or the metal pipes
under the sink?  Doesn't seem like it would, but this sort of thing is not
my field, and I would really hate to have to replace the big copper pipe
that runs behind my tiled in  kitchen cabinets.

Ideas appreciated - TIA

BillR

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Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] 300SD hard to start

2008-11-22 Thread Loren Faeth

Adchust der falfes   Sounds like lack of valve clearance.


At 08:44 AM 11/22/2008, you wrote:

Ever since I have that NEW engine put in my car, I noticed that it is hard
starting even in warm weather.
It has to crank quite a bit. Two or three pre-glows help. It fires
instantly, but does not stay running at first.
Lots of smoke for may be a minute. Than it clears out and runs smooth.
Starts quick when engine is warm.
Engine smokes some on hard acceleration.
All 5 glow plugs check good (0.6 Ohm). Fuel mileage is 22 - 24 MPG. 0-100
KPH  20 sec.
No fuel leaks visible at the primer pump or anywhere else.
Blow-by is normal.
Would a diesel purge help?
--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD hard to start

2008-11-22 Thread Jim Cathey

Adchust der falfes   Sounds like lack of valve clearance.


Der, or die?  I only ask because they seem to need constant
attention in order to fulfill their purpose.  :-)

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 300SD hard to start

2008-11-22 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 22 Nov 2008 07:31:47 -0800 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

  Adchust der falfes   Sounds like lack of valve clearance.
 
 Der, or die?  I only ask because they seem to need constant
 attention in order to fulfill their purpose.  :-)

Just from the German aspect, it would be die, because falfes is plural. If
it were der falfe or das falfe, it would be die falfes.

The allusion to the distaff side, however, seems fitting.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD hard to start

2008-11-22 Thread Hans Neureiter
It's Die (one would be Das).
I need to do that - adchust falfes.
No. I did never hand prime the thing. Why?.


On 11/22/08, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Adchust der falfes   Sounds like lack of valve clearance.


 Der, or die?  I only ask because they seem to need constant
 attention in order to fulfill their purpose.  :-)

 -- Jim



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-- 
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD
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Re: [MBZ] OT, vista again

2008-11-22 Thread Allan Streib
E M [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Whether Vista is as bad as most say or not, I don't know, I'm not a
 techie guy.  I know it's been given the death kiss by the public, so
 whether it's wise to keep trying to market something that most think
 is crap, might be good money after bad.

The last time I heard about the next (post-Vista) version it was being
called Windows 7 and the story was they were going to basically go
through the kernel with a broom and dustpan and really strip it down and
optimize it, and make a lot of the eye-candy stuff optional.

Now I'm hearing that will NOT happen and it's just going to be more of
the same bloated crapware.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: 300SD hard to start

2008-11-22 Thread Jim Cathey

No. I did never hand prime the thing. Why?.


If the fuel prime is leaking down that may make a difference.
If it does, you know that you're looking for leaks, whether
internal or external.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: 300SD hard to start

2008-11-22 Thread Hans Neureiter
I am going to check that. I looked for external leaks since the tank level
is higher than the priming pump, but not the top of the main filter.

On 11/22/08, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 No. I did never hand prime the thing. Why?.


 If the fuel prime is leaking down that may make a difference.
 If it does, you know that you're looking for leaks, whether
 internal or external.

 -- Jim



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-- 
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD
'02 RoadKing
'72 T100 Daytona
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD hard to start

2008-11-22 Thread Peter Frederick
Check for bad hoses on the suction side of the lift pump.  Watch the  
clear fuel filter while it's running -- a stream of small bubbles  
coming in and going out of the filter is bad -- indicates a suction  
side leak.  If you have the original German hoses with fabric cover,  
replace them with standard fuel line, they are surely leaking.


You are getting air into the IP, and it will be VERY hard to start  
from lack of fuel in the pressure chambers on start up, where the  
pressure leaks off badly anyway.


It's also possible to have leaks at the pressure valve holder seals  
on the IP -- this allows fuel to leak out on top of the pump while  
running, and air to leak into the feed chamber while stopped, hence  
air in the IP when you try to start.


If you get copious white smoke while cranking and lots of smoke cold,  
adjust the valves, you have low compression.


Peter

On Nov 22, 2008, at 9:31 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:


Adchust der falfes   Sounds like lack of valve clearance.


Der, or die?  I only ask because they seem to need constant
attention in order to fulfill their purpose.  :-)

-- Jim



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[MBZ] valve adjustment, OM617

2008-11-22 Thread Allan Streib
Sorry folks I know I have asked, and had answered, this question before,
but I can't recall what the intake and exhaust clearances are for the
OM617.

I'm going to adjust mine this weekend if possible, the falling
temperatures have not brought any starting difficulty, but I have been
negligent here and let it go for too long.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD hard to start

2008-11-22 Thread Hans Neureiter
Thank you all. I unlocked the priming pump and diesel is pouring out the top
when I stroke it.
So the verdict is in: a new priming pump and a falfes adjust job.


On 11/22/08, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Check for bad hoses on the suction side of the lift pump.  Watch the clear
 fuel filter while it's running -- a stream of small bubbles coming in and
 going out of the filter is bad -- indicates a suction side leak.  If you
 have the original German hoses with fabric cover, replace them with standard
 fuel line, they are surely leaking.

 You are getting air into the IP, and it will be VERY hard to start from
 lack of fuel in the pressure chambers on start up, where the pressure leaks
 off badly anyway.

 It's also possible to have leaks at the pressure valve holder seals on the
 IP -- this allows fuel to leak out on top of the pump while running, and air
 to leak into the feed chamber while stopped, hence air in the IP when you
 try to start.

 If you get copious white smoke while cranking and lots of smoke cold,
 adjust the valves, you have low compression.

 Peter

 On Nov 22, 2008, at 9:31 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:

  Adchust der falfes   Sounds like lack of valve clearance.


 Der, or die?  I only ask because they seem to need constant
 attention in order to fulfill their purpose.  :-)

 -- Jim



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-- 
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD
'02 RoadKing
'72 T100 Daytona
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Re: [MBZ] valve adjustment, OM617

2008-11-22 Thread Hans Neureiter
Cold engine 0.10 mm intake (temps below -20 C 0,05 mm), 0.35 mm exhaust

On 11/22/08, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Sorry folks I know I have asked, and had answered, this question before,
 but I can't recall what the intake and exhaust clearances are for the
 OM617.

 I'm going to adjust mine this weekend if possible, the falling
 temperatures have not brought any starting difficulty, but I have been
 negligent here and let it go for too long.

 Allan
 --
 1983 300D

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-- 
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD
'02 RoadKing
'72 T100 Daytona
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[MBZ] Diesel price

2008-11-22 Thread Wilton Strickland
#2 is $1.10 more per gal here than plus/extra gasoline

Wilton
Goldsboro, NC

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[MBZ] Lamp out

2008-11-22 Thread Wilton Strickland
Ed, you did check backup lights, didn;t you?  ;

Wilton

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Re: [MBZ] OT, vista again

2008-11-22 Thread Luther
Gary, this is Kaleb we're listening here.  I'd guess he has about 5% 
reason between his ears...


Luther

Gary Hurst wrote:

haven't we already concluded that all anyone knows about vista is that it is
bad for you and you should give it up?

On Fri, Nov 21, 2008 at 5:45 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote:

  

Anybody know anything about the Enterprise version? Looks like it has
multiple activations, but wondered if anybody has used it, what features it
has etc.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Not getting my Pagoda

2008-11-22 Thread MG
Yeah but how does one find that elusive Bosch sensor? Both Advance and 
Autozone only list the one with plug that is 'only' $203 for Bosch at 
Advance and $385 for the Denso at Autozone which is the only one they 
list. Other then that I don't have any problem with grafting that plug 
from the old to the new if I could only find the correct new one for $70 
or so. The rear sensor at Advance is only $90 for the you graft and $112 
for the plug it in one. For now I think it will just stay the way it is. 
Fuel mileage isn't suffering since it's only the heater circuit, not the 
sensing circuit.


Manfred



Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 20:14:59 CST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Not getting my Pagoda
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Probably a $70 Bosch sensor with a $200 Toyota plug.  Check it out, you
 can probably replace it yourself if you are willing to splice the old
 plug on a new sensor.

Mike

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[MBZ] Shocking!

2008-11-22 Thread Curt Raymond
Got the new rear shocks in. Took just a little over an hour plus a little for 
finding tools and whatnot.

Easy job, the only problem I had was getting the old shock out and the new one 
in. Had to lift on the lower control arm. It was easier the second time because 
I put the car up higher when I started.
I did the passenger side first which was the better of the two old shocks, it 
was bad but not as bad as the driver's side. Once I was done that side it sat 
noticably higher than the other. With both done the car is level and slightly 
less saggy in the rear than it was previous to, who knows how long these have 
been bad but not bad enough to notice.

Found $0.57 and a yellow plastic dinosaur while I was at it. I also put an 
electric heater inside to help cook off some of the moisture that has developed 
while sitting 6 months. Driving will finish the job but today I noticed frozen 
stalactites hanging from the sunroof (which doesn't have its inside cover) so 
figured I needed to get on that. The front windshield leaked (since fixed) but 
never had a good chance to dry out.

-Curt



  
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Re: [MBZ] Lamp out

2008-11-22 Thread E M
lol, yes, being alone, I had to drive to a store with a big glass window and
reverse towards it, and check them in my rear view mirror.  ;-)  I thought
it was very clever of me. lol

Ed
300E

2008/11/22 Wilton Strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Ed, you did check backup lights, didn;t you?  ;

 Wilton

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Re: [MBZ] Lamp out

2008-11-22 Thread Wilton Strickland
'Zackly the way I do it; 'thought you did it, too.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: E M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 3:08 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Lamp out


 lol, yes, being alone, I had to drive to a store with a big glass window
and
 reverse towards it, and check them in my rear view mirror.  ;-)  I thought
 it was very clever of me. lol

 Ed
 300E

 2008/11/22 Wilton Strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  Ed, you did check backup lights, didn;t you?  ;
 
  Wilton
 
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD hard to start

2008-11-22 Thread Chuck Landenberger

Hans,

Diesel Purge can't hurt  I would also try the tried and true  
Italian Tune-up..


By NEW, I assume you mean new to your SD, but not new-new!

Take care,

Chuck


On Nov 22, 2008, at 7:44 AM, Hans Neureiter wrote:

Ever since I have that NEW engine put in my car, I noticed that  
it is hard

starting even in warm weather.
It has to crank quite a bit. Two or three pre-glows help. It fires
instantly, but does not stay running at first.
Lots of smoke for may be a minute. Than it clears out and runs smooth.
Starts quick when engine is warm.
Engine smokes some on hard acceleration.
All 5 glow plugs check good (0.6 Ohm). Fuel mileage is 22 - 24 MPG.  
0-100

KPH  20 sec.
No fuel leaks visible at the primer pump or anywhere else.
Blow-by is normal.
Would a diesel purge help?
--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D
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Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

2008-11-22 Thread Bill R
Thanks Loren.  I was assuming it was something like that but it does help to
know.  Turns out that the blockage is about 10' down and out from the spot
it goes into the wall between the entry hall and the kitchen.  I now have a
12 x 12 hole in the entry hall wall just in case we could put a cleanout
there.  Not really any way, though maybe inside the cabinet.  We took the
big copper pipe off entirely - and it was about eaten through - and will
replace it with pvc. A snake going down the cast iron pipe back there hit an
obstruction, and we now have a slow drain once more.  This gives me some
hope it can be cured without digging.  Going for a bit of the heavy duty
pipe cleaner stuff [muratic acid?] that should eat through nearly anything
that might be there, and the copper sulfate should take care of any roots if
those were adding to the problems.  This seems like a lot when we were
looking at a slow drain; it looks a lot less when compared to bringing in a
plumber and digging under the slab.  We should know tonight.
BillR   

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Loren Faeth
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:07 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

The warning about the toilet is because it is all ceramic.  Copper 
sulfate, when mixed with water forms a dilute sulfuric acid.  You can 
use it in mild steel (galvanized iron) pipes, but you will notice the 
inside is scoured over time.

You can dump it down your kitchen sink in the following ways:
1. If your drain is all Stainless steel
2.  If you put the copper sulfate crystals down into the drain 
itself, without touching any chrome plated parts.
3.  If your drain(s) are already showing wear, and the action of an 
acid won't particularly deteriorate the appearance.

Orchards are typically sprayed while dormant with copper sulfate to 
kill fungi and bacteria such as causes fire blight.  For the first 
few sprays in the spring, we got a lot of rust clogging nozzles, but 
after 2 or 3 copper sprays, the insides of the pipes was clean and 
shiny.  The sprayer plumbing typically lasted 30 to 40 years.

You can also plumb in a Y or T as previously described.

All that said, i don't thinkit is really any worse than liquid 
plumber type drain cleaners, as long as you don't let the copper 
sulfate touch the metal parts for a prolonged time.  If you dump it 
down the drain with water running, there should be no damage.  You 
don't want to let it back up into the sink and sit for 10-15 minutes or
hours.

At 08:31 PM 11/21/2008, you wrote:
First, let me say we have some weird things in our home.   The kitchen
drain
is at the start of what might well be its own line to the septic tank.  The
trap leads back to the front wall of the house, then does a 90 turn
expanding to a 2.5 or 3 copper pipe that has a flat 8' run, then does a
90
down [it is copper into the wall, no idea what material beyond that]  then
it is in a direct line with the septic tank, but would need to go either
under or around the master bedroom/bath, and might tap in there. The
kitchen sink started to back up, so I am at it with my snake [which will go
as far as the 90 down turn] and that hits nothing.  Next is the expanding
ball that I use to blow out clogs.  That will run for as long as I want,
but
that only mimics a slow drain, and makes no difference to a slow leak.  The
sink backs up after a 30 seconds of the water being turned on, then drains
down slowly.   Friendly local hardware store sold me copper sulfate to kill
what sounded like roots clogging the line.  Now the problem:  The first
warning on the copper sulfate is to use it only in a toilet, and not to use
it in a sink or tub as it will corrode the metal drain.  I can protect the
sink drain if the chrome finish on that is the only problem, but is there
any chance the copper sulfate would damage a copper pipe or the metal pipes
under the sink?  Doesn't seem like it would, but this sort of thing is not
my field, and I would really hate to have to replace the big copper pipe
that runs behind my tiled in  kitchen cabinets.

Ideas appreciated - TIA

BillR

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Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

2008-11-22 Thread Allan Streib
Be careful if you're using different drain cleaners -- some (I think
Draino for example) are lye (NaOH) and some (Liquid Fire?) are acid --
you don't want the two in the pipe at the same time!

Allan
-- 
1983 300D


Bill R [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Thanks Loren.  I was assuming it was something like that but it does
 help to know.  Turns out that the blockage is about 10' down and out
 from the spot it goes into the wall between the entry hall and the
 kitchen.  I now have a 12 x 12 hole in the entry hall wall just in
 case we could put a cleanout there.  Not really any way, though maybe
 inside the cabinet.  We took the big copper pipe off entirely - and it
 was about eaten through - and will replace it with pvc. A snake going
 down the cast iron pipe back there hit an obstruction, and we now have
 a slow drain once more.  This gives me some hope it can be cured
 without digging.  Going for a bit of the heavy duty pipe cleaner stuff
 [muratic acid?] that should eat through nearly anything that might be
 there, and the copper sulfate should take care of any roots if those
 were adding to the problems.  This seems like a lot when we were
 looking at a slow drain; it looks a lot less when compared to bringing
 in a plumber and digging under the slab.  We should know tonight.
 BillR

___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] OT, vista again

2008-11-22 Thread Gary Hurst
i understand that it is sometimes just practical to use the microsoft OS.  i
have some vendors who have systems of communicating with their inventories
that simply will not work on anything other than the MS OS.  if i want to
know if there is a certain bilstein shock in a warehouse near you and don't
want to wait on hold for 20 minutes, i have to run MS.  (no, wonko, your
wine emulation/virtualizations don't really work).  sometimes you are just
stuck.

but kleb makes no sense at all.

1.  what does he need run that can't be run off a non-ms OS?
2.  what does he need to run that can't be run on XP but only on Vista?

as downloading porn and emails does not require any microsoft product at
all. his motivation is a mystery.  we i in such an enviable position, i'd be
microsoft free forever (and i've even tried to do that, but just couldn't
because of business requirements)

On Sat, Nov 22, 2008 at 3:06 PM, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Gary, this is Kaleb we're listening here.  I'd guess he has about 5% reason
 between his ears...

 Luther


 Gary Hurst wrote:

 haven't we already concluded that all anyone knows about vista is that it
 is
 bad for you and you should give it up?

 On Fri, Nov 21, 2008 at 5:45 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:



 Anybody know anything about the Enterprise version? Looks like it has
 multiple activations, but wondered if anybody has used it, what features
 it
 has etc.
 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
  87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
  84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
 http://www.okiebenz.com


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] OT, vista again

2008-11-22 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I would rather use XP, but this new computer I have had for a while came 
with Vista, and its very difficult to go back to xp on it.


Gary Hurst wrote:

i understand that it is sometimes just practical to use the microsoft OS.  i
have some vendors who have systems of communicating with their inventories
that simply will not work on anything other than the MS OS.  if i want to
know if there is a certain bilstein shock in a warehouse near you and don't
want to wait on hold for 20 minutes, i have to run MS.  (no, wonko, your
wine emulation/virtualizations don't really work).  sometimes you are just
stuck.

but kleb makes no sense at all.

1.  what does he need run that can't be run off a non-ms OS?
2.  what does he need to run that can't be run on XP but only on Vista?

as downloading porn and emails does not require any microsoft product at
all. his motivation is a mystery.  we i in such an enviable position, i'd be
microsoft free forever (and i've even tried to do that, but just couldn't
because of business requirements)

On Sat, Nov 22, 2008 at 3:06 PM, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Gary, this is Kaleb we're listening here.  I'd guess he has about 5% reason
between his ears...

Luther


Gary Hurst wrote:


haven't we already concluded that all anyone knows about vista is that it
is
bad for you and you should give it up?

On Fri, Nov 21, 2008 at 5:45 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

wrote:




Anybody know anything about the Enterprise version? Looks like it has
multiple activations, but wondered if anybody has used it, what features
it
has etc.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.9/1806 - Release Date: 11/22/2008 6:59 PM




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

2008-11-22 Thread Bill R
The guy helping me is pretty experienced.  Actually he works and I pay him.
That helps both of us.  He knows there is copper sulfate in the pipes, and
the muriatic acid [if that is what it is] will go in tonight.  Watch your
late breaking news to see if we went out via fumes. Amateur plumber and
antique [both the enthusiast and the cars] MB enthusiast felled by copper
sulfate and muriatic acid fumes  
BillR

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Allan Streib
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 4:55 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

Be careful if you're using different drain cleaners -- some (I think
Draino for example) are lye (NaOH) and some (Liquid Fire?) are acid --
you don't want the two in the pipe at the same time!

Allan
-- 
1983 300D


Bill R [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Thanks Loren.  I was assuming it was something like that but it does
 help to know.  Turns out that the blockage is about 10' down and out
 from the spot it goes into the wall between the entry hall and the
 kitchen.  I now have a 12 x 12 hole in the entry hall wall just in
 case we could put a cleanout there.  Not really any way, though maybe
 inside the cabinet.  We took the big copper pipe off entirely - and it
 was about eaten through - and will replace it with pvc. A snake going
 down the cast iron pipe back there hit an obstruction, and we now have
 a slow drain once more.  This gives me some hope it can be cured
 without digging.  Going for a bit of the heavy duty pipe cleaner stuff
 [muratic acid?] that should eat through nearly anything that might be
 there, and the copper sulfate should take care of any roots if those
 were adding to the problems.  This seems like a lot when we were
 looking at a slow drain; it looks a lot less when compared to bringing
 in a plumber and digging under the slab.  We should know tonight.
 BillR

___
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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] OT, vista again

2008-11-22 Thread Trampas
I heard if you called M$ they would give you XP code such that you could
down grade. However you have to already have XP install disks. 

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 5:01 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT, vista again

I would rather use XP, but this new computer I have had for a while came 
with Vista, and its very difficult to go back to xp on it.

Gary Hurst wrote:
 i understand that it is sometimes just practical to use the microsoft OS.
i
 have some vendors who have systems of communicating with their inventories
 that simply will not work on anything other than the MS OS.  if i want to
 know if there is a certain bilstein shock in a warehouse near you and
don't
 want to wait on hold for 20 minutes, i have to run MS.  (no, wonko, your
 wine emulation/virtualizations don't really work).  sometimes you are just
 stuck.
 
 but kleb makes no sense at all.
 
 1.  what does he need run that can't be run off a non-ms OS?
 2.  what does he need to run that can't be run on XP but only on Vista?
 
 as downloading porn and emails does not require any microsoft product at
 all. his motivation is a mystery.  we i in such an enviable position, i'd
be
 microsoft free forever (and i've even tried to do that, but just couldn't
 because of business requirements)
 
 On Sat, Nov 22, 2008 at 3:06 PM, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Gary, this is Kaleb we're listening here.  I'd guess he has about 5%
reason
 between his ears...

 Luther


 Gary Hurst wrote:

 haven't we already concluded that all anyone knows about vista is that
it
 is
 bad for you and you should give it up?

 On Fri, Nov 21, 2008 at 5:45 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:


 Anybody know anything about the Enterprise version? Looks like it has
 multiple activations, but wondered if anybody has used it, what
features
 it
 has etc.
 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
  87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
  84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
 http://www.okiebenz.com

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 
 
 
 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
 Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.9/1806 - Release Date: 11/22/2008
6:59 PM
 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
  87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
  84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] OT, vista again

2008-11-22 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
yea, I already have xp install disks, in fact, I have xp running on a 
seperate hard drive on this computer.  REally, the problem is I need to 
get my mail an everything moved over from the vista install, which 
luther sent me the instructions, I just have not done it yet.  Then, 
there is the fact that I bought that technet subscription but dont 
really need it, but might as well use it since I have it so though about 
upgrading my version of XP, and also downloading some office installs 
and such.


Trampas wrote:

I heard if you called M$ they would give you XP code such that you could
down grade. However you have to already have XP install disks. 


Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 5:01 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT, vista again

I would rather use XP, but this new computer I have had for a while came 
with Vista, and its very difficult to go back to xp on it.


Gary Hurst wrote:

i understand that it is sometimes just practical to use the microsoft OS.

i

have some vendors who have systems of communicating with their inventories
that simply will not work on anything other than the MS OS.  if i want to
know if there is a certain bilstein shock in a warehouse near you and

don't

want to wait on hold for 20 minutes, i have to run MS.  (no, wonko, your
wine emulation/virtualizations don't really work).  sometimes you are just
stuck.

but kleb makes no sense at all.

1.  what does he need run that can't be run off a non-ms OS?
2.  what does he need to run that can't be run on XP but only on Vista?

as downloading porn and emails does not require any microsoft product at
all. his motivation is a mystery.  we i in such an enviable position, i'd

be

microsoft free forever (and i've even tried to do that, but just couldn't
because of business requirements)

On Sat, Nov 22, 2008 at 3:06 PM, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Gary, this is Kaleb we're listening here.  I'd guess he has about 5%

reason

between his ears...

Luther


Gary Hurst wrote:


haven't we already concluded that all anyone knows about vista is that

it

is
bad for you and you should give it up?

On Fri, Nov 21, 2008 at 5:45 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

wrote:



Anybody know anything about the Enterprise version? Looks like it has
multiple activations, but wondered if anybody has used it, what

features

it
has etc.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.9/1806 - Release Date: 11/22/2008

6:59 PM





No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.9/1806 - Release Date: 11/22/2008 6:59 PM




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] OT, vista again

2008-11-22 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Well, actually, I just booted my computer from the other hard drive with 
the XP install, followed the simple instructions for pointing 
thunderbird to the correct location of mail files, and am sending this 
from XP.  I will say this computer is MUCH faster on XP than Vista.


Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
yea, I already have xp install disks, in fact, I have xp running on a 
seperate hard drive on this computer.  REally, the problem is I need to 
get my mail an everything moved over from the vista install, which 
luther sent me the instructions, I just have not done it yet.  Then, 
there is the fact that I bought that technet subscription but dont 
really need it, but might as well use it since I have it so though about 
upgrading my version of XP, and also downloading some office installs 
and such.


Trampas wrote:

I heard if you called M$ they would give you XP code such that you could
down grade. However you have to already have XP install disks.
Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 5:01 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT, vista again

I would rather use XP, but this new computer I have had for a while 
came with Vista, and its very difficult to go back to xp on it.


Gary Hurst wrote:
i understand that it is sometimes just practical to use the microsoft 
OS.

i
have some vendors who have systems of communicating with their 
inventories
that simply will not work on anything other than the MS OS.  if i 
want to

know if there is a certain bilstein shock in a warehouse near you and

don't

want to wait on hold for 20 minutes, i have to run MS.  (no, wonko, your
wine emulation/virtualizations don't really work).  sometimes you are 
just

stuck.

but kleb makes no sense at all.

1.  what does he need run that can't be run off a non-ms OS?
2.  what does he need to run that can't be run on XP but only on Vista?

as downloading porn and emails does not require any microsoft product at
all. his motivation is a mystery.  we i in such an enviable position, 
i'd

be
microsoft free forever (and i've even tried to do that, but just 
couldn't

because of business requirements)

On Sat, Nov 22, 2008 at 3:06 PM, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Gary, this is Kaleb we're listening here.  I'd guess he has about 5%

reason

between his ears...

Luther


Gary Hurst wrote:


haven't we already concluded that all anyone knows about vista is that

it

is
bad for you and you should give it up?

On Fri, Nov 21, 2008 at 5:45 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

wrote:



Anybody know anything about the Enterprise version? Looks like it has
multiple activations, but wondered if anybody has used it, what

features

it
has etc.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.175 / Virus 
Database: 270.9.9/1806 - Release Date: 11/22/2008

6:59 PM





No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 
270.9.9/1806 - Release Date: 11/22/2008 6:59 PM








No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.9/1806 - Release Date: 11/22/2008 6:59 PM




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Not getting my Pagoda

2008-11-22 Thread Mitch Haley

MG wrote:
Yeah but how does one find that elusive Bosch sensor? 


What year/engine is your wife's Taco?
I just randomly picked one, 2004 V6, for which Rockauto sells original type 
Denso front sensors for $145.79.


Amazon has the same part for even less:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5WD2Q

Funny, the listings at RockAuto included a Bosch Wideband sensor that they 
wanted $294 for.


Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] Lamp out

2008-11-22 Thread Hendrik Fay
No, being clever involves putting the handbrake on, switching the 
ignition to on and putting the gear selector into R and then walk around 
to the back of the vehicle and inspect reversing lights.

For brake lights I use a stick.

Hendrik

E M wrote:

lol, yes, being alone, I had to drive to a store with a big glass window and
reverse towards it, and check them in my rear view mirror.  ;-)  I thought
it was very clever of me. lol

Ed
300E

2008/11/22 Wilton Strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
  



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Re: [MBZ] Lamp out

2008-11-22 Thread E M
There's a man who trusts fully in his handbrake!! hee hee.  I'd ask how you
would check to make sure the safety switch works on an elevator door, but I
think the answer would scare me. ;-)

Ed
300E

2008/11/22 Hendrik  Fay [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 No, being clever involves putting the handbrake on, switching the ignition
 to on and putting the gear selector into R and then walk around to the back
 of the vehicle and inspect reversing lights.
 For brake lights I use a stick.

 Hendrik

 E M wrote:

 lol, yes, being alone, I had to drive to a store with a big glass window
 and
 reverse towards it, and check them in my rear view mirror.  ;-)  I thought
 it was very clever of me. lol

 Ed
 300E

 2008/11/22 Wilton Strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED]




 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] W108 suspension - compensator spring kit FYI

2008-11-22 Thread David Bruckmann
The hydropneumatic compensator was a clever way of adapting the old axle design 
for level control, but it seems unlikely that the hydro compensator was the 
reason for that design because it wasn't offered until years after the steel 
spring version.

On the Ponton site it says of the evolution of the MB swing axle:

The pivot point was lowered, and later, a horizontal compensating spring was 
fitted between the rear axle and the right axle shaft to keep the car more 
stable under various driving conditions.

So I guess it was a necessary improvement, but I don't understand how the 
spring contributes to stability.

D.

Peter Frederick wrote:

To provide level control.

The basic swing axle suspension was used from 1953 to 1973,

Peter



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Re: [MBZ] Lamp out

2008-11-22 Thread Wonko the Sane
Where I live, we refer to that as a statistic.

On Sat, Nov 22, 2008 at 5:51 PM, Hendrik  Fay [EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote:

 No, being clever involves putting the handbrake on, switching the ignition
 to on and putting the gear selector into R and then walk around to the back
 of the vehicle and inspect reversing lights.


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
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[MBZ] Diesel price

2008-11-22 Thread Glenn Brown
This is something I get very annoyed at each time I hear a news broadcast
mention the current price of regular gas and the bozos never mention that us
dieselers are payin' through the nose.  Reg. gas here at $1.799/gal. vs.
diesel at $2.879.  At least Autoweek magazine had the nerve to print a
reader's comment on the high price dieselers are paying; no one else seems
to be payin' attention.

G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC
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Re: [MBZ] Lamp out

2008-11-22 Thread Mitch Haley

E M wrote:

There's a man who trusts fully in his handbrake!! hee hee.  I'd ask how you
would check to make sure the safety switch works on an elevator door, but I
think the answer would scare me. 



When I was in college, a friend showed me how to open the elevator door from 
inside while the elevator was moving. Yes, the safety stop switch worked.


Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] Spork plugs (380 SL)

2008-11-22 Thread Jim Cathey

Yesterday I decided it was time to tackle the valve stem seals on #7
again, now that I have the new ones in hand.  I removed the spark plug
and its extender.  The plug was oily, but not hugely fouled, so I
guess the extender is working.  I got the obtruding fuel and vacuum
lines removed, then removed the valve cover and oiling tube.  As the
belts need attention anyway I removed the fan, then I was able to use
the front crank nut to bar the engine over until #7 was at TDC,
determined with a probe in the spark plug hole.  The spring compressor
then made short work of removing the cam followers and springs.  (One
of the valve keepers was a real pain, but the other three came out
easily.)  I'm ready to remove the old stem seals and put on the new,
but I was out of time.

Today I pulled the other four plugs.  #2 was particularly gassy, and
all were a bit dirty, which is fitting because it _has_ been running
so poorly of late.  I cleaned all the plugs and put them back.  I
noticed that the injectors for #3 and #4 were very wet looking, so I
removed them.  (My first ever injector removal!)  I cleaned them off
and checked the tightness of the fittings, after I did this I
concluded that the wetness was just oil dripping from the
badly-fitting breather hose that's directly overhead.  In a mood to
experiment, and since the injectors were already out, I got out the
clean grease gun and found that its threads matched those of the fuel
distributor ends of the injector pipes: they threaded right in.
However, there was no cup at the bottom to pinch the pipe's button
against so it leaked.  Regardless, I pumped some bad gasoline through
#3 and saw that it puffed clouds of atomized fuel, and seemed to have
the requisite non-dribble-ness.  #4 behaved exactly the same.  Because
of the gassy state of plug #2 I pulled #2 injector as well and tested
it, finding no difference from the other two.  I put them all back and
test-started the engine.  No leaks that I could see, and brake cleaner
sprayed around the injectors indicated that there were no significant
leaks.  It appears that I got it reassembled adequately.

As it was idling rather lumpily I started pulling spark plug wires.
They all made it worse except #6 and #7!  Pulling either of them had
no significant effect on idle.  I double-checked the wiring order to
the distributor cap and it was correct according to the firing order
stamped on the valve cover.  Well, there are only a limited number of
other things that it could be.  I decided to think about it for a bit,
and came in for breakfast.  The list of potential culprits is rather
short:

* no spark
* no fuel
* no compression

I'm hoping it's not the latter!

When I got back to it I checked the spark on #7 by putting in one of
the old spark plugs and laying the newer one on the valve cover,
connected.  Started, the engine idled as usual with a nice bright
spark.  That's not it.  I then pulled half the plugs, the ignition
module's input, and the fuel pump relay and tested the compression,
six strokes per reading.  I repeated it twice:

Plug  Bar  (PSI)
 #5   10   (150)
 #68   (120)
 #79.5 (140)
 #88   (120)

No joy, but #6 and #8 are kind of low.  Still, it's #7 that's been
trouble, so what does that mean?  I don't know.  Low compression on
this side, but very oily rings in #7 boost it?  I put all the plugs
back.  I looked at getting the injectors out, and they're really
buried on this side.  It's not going to be easy to get them out.
Maybe later.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Lamp out

2008-11-22 Thread Wilton Strickland
But he DIDN'T say, start engine or engine running.  ;

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: E M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Lamp out


 There's a man who trusts fully in his handbrake!! hee hee.  I'd ask how
you
 would check to make sure the safety switch works on an elevator door, but
I
 think the answer would scare me. ;-)

 Ed
 300E

 2008/11/22 Hendrik  Fay [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  No, being clever involves putting the handbrake on, switching the
ignition
  to on and putting the gear selector into R and then walk around to the
back
  of the vehicle and inspect reversing lights.
  For brake lights I use a stick.
 
  Hendrik
 
  E M wrote:
 
  lol, yes, being alone, I had to drive to a store with a big glass
window
  and
  reverse towards it, and check them in my rear view mirror.  ;-)  I
thought
  it was very clever of me. lol
 
  Ed
  300E
 
  2008/11/22 Wilton Strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 
 
 
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[MBZ] W108 audio questions

2008-11-22 Thread David Bruckmann
Gang,

My car has the (apparently optional) stereo sound system with electric antenna. 
Wondering about the speaker grille in the middle of the dashboard, which does 
not appear to contain a speaker, but does emit light from the climate controls.

Two questions:

1. Is the absence of the middle speaker normal if you've got the stereo 
speakers on the kickpanels

2. Is there a part missing that would prevent light from getting up through the 
grille and reflecting on the windshield. It's not a big deal, but it is a bit 
distracting at night, and it seems very unlikely that MB would let something 
like that happen...

D.

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Re: [MBZ] Lamp out

2008-11-22 Thread Jim Cathey

Where I live, we refer to that as a statistic.
No, being clever involves putting the handbrake on, switching the 
ignition
to on and putting the gear selector into R and then walk around to 
the back

of the vehicle and inspect reversing lights.


Guys, the ignition being 'on' doesn't mean that the engine is running!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] W108 suspension - compensator spring kit FYI

2008-11-22 Thread Peter Frederick
Anti-jacking, I would suspect.  While it's much less likely to jack  
under hard cornering because the pivot point is below the axle most  
of the time, that swing axle system WILL jack at strange times.   
Caused Corvairs to flip when the tire dismounted and the rim dug into  
the road, but it's never that dramatic in a Benz.


It's the opposite of an anti-sway bar in action, after all.

Peter

On Nov 22, 2008, at 6:08 PM, David Bruckmann wrote:

The hydropneumatic compensator was a clever way of adapting the old  
axle design for level control, but it seems unlikely that the hydro  
compensator was the reason for that design because it wasn't  
offered until years after the steel spring version.


On the Ponton site it says of the evolution of the MB swing axle:

The pivot point was lowered, and later, a horizontal compensating  
spring was fitted between the rear axle and the right axle shaft to  
keep the car more stable under various driving conditions.


So I guess it was a necessary improvement, but I don't understand  
how the spring contributes to stability.


D.

Peter Frederick wrote:


To provide level control.

The basic swing axle suspension was used from 1953 to 1973,

Peter




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Re: [MBZ] Spork plugs (380 SL)

2008-11-22 Thread Peter Frederick
Are the plugs in #6 and #7 normal (that is, do they have evidence of  
combustion)?  If not, and you have gasoline fouling, it's time to  
replace the boot between the air horn of the fuel distributor and the  
throttle body, the throttle body to intake seal, and the seals  
between the two halves of the intake manifold (especially the  
latter).  A leak there will give you idle fits while working pretty  
much as normal at speed -- the mixture on those cylinders will be too  
lean with a leak there.


Vacuum leak problems are identical on FI and carburetor systems.

Peter

On Nov 22, 2008, at 6:10 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:


Yesterday I decided it was time to tackle the valve stem seals on #7
again, now that I have the new ones in hand.  I removed the spark plug
and its extender.  The plug was oily, but not hugely fouled, so I
guess the extender is working.  I got the obtruding fuel and vacuum
lines removed, then removed the valve cover and oiling tube.  As the
belts need attention anyway I removed the fan, then I was able to use
the front crank nut to bar the engine over until #7 was at TDC,
determined with a probe in the spark plug hole.  The spring compressor
then made short work of removing the cam followers and springs.  (One
of the valve keepers was a real pain, but the other three came out
easily.)  I'm ready to remove the old stem seals and put on the new,
but I was out of time.

Today I pulled the other four plugs.  #2 was particularly gassy, and
all were a bit dirty, which is fitting because it _has_ been running
so poorly of late.  I cleaned all the plugs and put them back.  I
noticed that the injectors for #3 and #4 were very wet looking, so I
removed them.  (My first ever injector removal!)  I cleaned them off
and checked the tightness of the fittings, after I did this I
concluded that the wetness was just oil dripping from the
badly-fitting breather hose that's directly overhead.  In a mood to
experiment, and since the injectors were already out, I got out the
clean grease gun and found that its threads matched those of the fuel
distributor ends of the injector pipes: they threaded right in.
However, there was no cup at the bottom to pinch the pipe's button
against so it leaked.  Regardless, I pumped some bad gasoline through
#3 and saw that it puffed clouds of atomized fuel, and seemed to have
the requisite non-dribble-ness.  #4 behaved exactly the same.  Because
of the gassy state of plug #2 I pulled #2 injector as well and tested
it, finding no difference from the other two.  I put them all back and
test-started the engine.  No leaks that I could see, and brake cleaner
sprayed around the injectors indicated that there were no significant
leaks.  It appears that I got it reassembled adequately.

As it was idling rather lumpily I started pulling spark plug wires.
They all made it worse except #6 and #7!  Pulling either of them had
no significant effect on idle.  I double-checked the wiring order to
the distributor cap and it was correct according to the firing order
stamped on the valve cover.  Well, there are only a limited number of
other things that it could be.  I decided to think about it for a bit,
and came in for breakfast.  The list of potential culprits is rather
short:

* no spark
* no fuel
* no compression

I'm hoping it's not the latter!

When I got back to it I checked the spark on #7 by putting in one of
the old spark plugs and laying the newer one on the valve cover,
connected.  Started, the engine idled as usual with a nice bright
spark.  That's not it.  I then pulled half the plugs, the ignition
module's input, and the fuel pump relay and tested the compression,
six strokes per reading.  I repeated it twice:

Plug  Bar  (PSI)
 #5   10   (150)
 #68   (120)
 #79.5 (140)
 #88   (120)

No joy, but #6 and #8 are kind of low.  Still, it's #7 that's been
trouble, so what does that mean?  I don't know.  Low compression on
this side, but very oily rings in #7 boost it?  I put all the plugs
back.  I looked at getting the injectors out, and they're really
buried on this side.  It's not going to be easy to get them out.
Maybe later.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

2008-11-22 Thread Hendrik Fay
Talking about septic tanks (which is rhyming slang for yanks BTW), my 
mothers septic is overflowing badly and she got some people out to see 
what the problem is. According to the experts she needs a new you beaut 
AU$11,000 septic system put in. Me being a skeptic smelled a rat because 
according to these 'experts' the ground was saturated and could not 
absorb the amount of overflow coming out. Funny thing is that we are in 
a drought and have not had a lot of water. Just so happens that a while 
back I bought a little half tonne micro excavator (a Kobelco SK005, 
which is now sporting a Chinese copy of the original Yanmar single 
cylinder Diesel engine because the original Yanmar got dusted due to a 
cracked inlet manifold) to do some landscaping around the house.
Anyway took the excavator around to her place and started digging, turns 
out the pipe where the overflow comes out was blocked with soil. Had I 
know where the outlet was located I could have fixed her supposedly 
stuffed septic in half an hour with a spade. However know that I have 
the machine there I am going to install a proper Rein trench, which 
should last for quite some time and the total cost of the job should 
come in well under a grand.
It makes me angry the way some of the trades people are ripping off 
unwary consumers, these dickheads did not make any effort to properly 
inspect the set up and determine the exact cause of the septic 
overflowing but instead made a few assumptions and did the thing that 
makes them the most money.


Far as Bill's problems go, my suggestion is that if you are going to be 
living there for a while yet, get the system fixed up properly. As 
chemicals and pipe worms are a temporary solution.
You can hire little excavators for a couple of hundred a day, they are 
not hard to operate on flat ground.


Hendrik

Bill R wrote:

Thanks Loren.  I was assuming it was something like that but it does help to
know.  Turns out that the blockage is about 10' down and out from the spot
it goes into the wall between the entry hall and the kitchen.  I now have a
12 x 12 hole in the entry hall wall just in case we could put a cleanout
there.  Not really any way, though maybe inside the cabinet.  We took the
big copper pipe off entirely - and it was about eaten through - and will
replace it with pvc. A snake going down the cast iron pipe back there hit an
obstruction, and we now have a slow drain once more.  This gives me some
hope it can be cured without digging.  Going for a bit of the heavy duty
pipe cleaner stuff [muratic acid?] that should eat through nearly anything
that might be there, and the copper sulfate should take care of any roots if
those were adding to the problems.  This seems like a lot when we were
looking at a slow drain; it looks a lot less when compared to bringing in a
plumber and digging under the slab.  We should know tonight.
BillR   
  
  



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Re: [MBZ] W108 audio questions

2008-11-22 Thread Peter Frederick
Yes and yes.  The fiberboard cover is missing.  The grill is held on  
by two semi-recessed screws, take it out and cut a blank from  
something fairly stable and cover the hole.


Peter

On Nov 22, 2008, at 6:11 PM, David Bruckmann wrote:






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Re: [MBZ] Lamp out

2008-11-22 Thread Hendrik Fay
You don't have to have the engine running to do this but the ignition 
must be in the on position.

And yes I do trust my handbrake because I maintain it myself.

Hendrik

E M wrote:

There's a man who trusts fully in his handbrake!! hee hee.  I'd ask how you
would check to make sure the safety switch works on an elevator door, but I
think the answer would scare me. ;-)

Ed
300E

  

  



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Re: [MBZ] Lamp out

2008-11-22 Thread Hendrik Fay
Perhaps I should have said set the ignition key to position 2 but do NOT 
start the engine.


Hendrik

Jim Cathey wrote:

Where I live, we refer to that as a statistic.
No, being clever involves putting the handbrake on, switching the 
ignition
to on and putting the gear selector into R and then walk around to 
the back

of the vehicle and inspect reversing lights.


Guys, the ignition being 'on' doesn't mean that the engine is running!

-- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

2008-11-22 Thread Bill R
Allen -  Your design was what we were going for, but when we got into the
wall there is a stacked iron pipe that goes up as well as down, and also has
a lateral run going behind the stove inside the wall.  I don't know what the
original configuration of the kitchen was, but it seems it is quite
different now. I don't think there is a decent way to do a cleanout unless
we can fit one between the iron pipe inside the wall and the new drain, but
it would have to be in the space between the wall and the end of the cabinet
[about 6].  Doesn't seem practical.  I suspect the main thing would be to
convince my darling wife that if she ever wishes to dispose of a quart of
old ham salad again that the trash can is a far better place than the
garbage disposal.  The way it will be put together we will be able snake it
from the junction of the PVC and the rubber connector if we need to again.
Your input much appreciated.
Thanks - BillR   

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Allan Streib
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 9:41 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

Cut the pipe after the bend and install a cleanout wye, snake it from
there.  Or replace the 90 down bend with a tee and fit a cleanout plug
on the top of the tee.

   vcleanout plug
 |---|
 |   |
 |   +
 | 
 |   +
 |   |
 |   |
 |   |

Bill R [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 First, let me say we have some weird things in our home.   The kitchen
drain


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Re: [MBZ] Lamp out

2008-11-22 Thread E M
So maybe he is pretty clever after all. ;-)

Ed
300E

2008/11/22 Wilton Strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 But he DIDN'T say, start engine or engine running.  ;

 Wilton

 - Original Message -
 From: E M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 7:03 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Lamp out


  There's a man who trusts fully in his handbrake!! hee hee.  I'd ask how
 you
  would check to make sure the safety switch works on an elevator door, but
 I
  think the answer would scare me. ;-)
 
  Ed
  300E
 
  2008/11/22 Hendrik  Fay [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
   No, being clever involves putting the handbrake on, switching the
 ignition
   to on and putting the gear selector into R and then walk around to the
 back
   of the vehicle and inspect reversing lights.
   For brake lights I use a stick.
  
   Hendrik
  
   E M wrote:
  
   lol, yes, being alone, I had to drive to a store with a big glass
 window
   and
   reverse towards it, and check them in my rear view mirror.  ;-)  I
 thought
   it was very clever of me. lol
  
   Ed
   300E
  
   2008/11/22 Wilton Strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
  
  
  
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Re: [MBZ] Lamp out

2008-11-22 Thread E M
Yeah, but the first way you said it makes you sound like a guy who like to
live on the edge. hee hee.

Ed
300E

2008/11/22 Hendrik  Fay [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Perhaps I should have said set the ignition key to position 2 but do NOT
 start the engine.

 Hendrik


 Jim Cathey wrote:

 Where I live, we refer to that as a statistic.

 No, being clever involves putting the handbrake on, switching the
 ignition
 to on and putting the gear selector into R and then walk around to the
 back
 of the vehicle and inspect reversing lights.


 Guys, the ignition being 'on' doesn't mean that the engine is running!

 -- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

2008-11-22 Thread Allan Streib
Garbage disposal?  On a septic?  Or am I getting my threads confused?

Here it's against code to have a garbage disposal on a septic.  We never
put food or grease down the drain -- into the trash.  Or into the woods,
sometimes.

Allan


Bill R [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Allen -  Your design was what we were going for, but when we got into the
 wall there is a stacked iron pipe that goes up as well as down, and also has
 a lateral run going behind the stove inside the wall.  I don't know what the
 original configuration of the kitchen was, but it seems it is quite
 different now. I don't think there is a decent way to do a cleanout unless
 we can fit one between the iron pipe inside the wall and the new drain, but
 it would have to be in the space between the wall and the end of the cabinet
 [about 6].  Doesn't seem practical.  I suspect the main thing would be to
 convince my darling wife that if she ever wishes to dispose of a quart of
 old ham salad again that the trash can is a far better place than the
 garbage disposal.  The way it will be put together we will be able snake it
 from the junction of the PVC and the rubber connector if we need to again.
 Your input much appreciated.
 Thanks - BillR   


-- 
1983 300D

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[MBZ] spark plug leads.103

2008-11-22 Thread Mak
Is it possible to install conventional spark plug leads in a W103  engine  so 
that 'R  type plugs can be installed .?

As I understand  the  resistance of the leads and the spark plug resistance 
combined  causes poor performance in a103 engine.

mak
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Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

2008-11-22 Thread Mitch Haley
The normal septic failure mode is when you go too long without pumping the 
solids out of the tank, and the solid stuff starts making it into the 2nd 
chamber and through the outlet, where the crap plugs the drainfield pipes.


Mitch


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Re: [MBZ] Lamp out

2008-11-22 Thread Wonko the Sane
Oh. Guess too much was assumed.

On Sat, Nov 22, 2008 at 6:12 PM, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Where I live, we refer to that as a statistic.

 No, being clever involves putting the handbrake on, switching the
 ignition
 to on and putting the gear selector into R and then walk around to the
 back
 of the vehicle and inspect reversing lights.


 Guys, the ignition being 'on' doesn't mean that the engine is running!

 -- Jim




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[MBZ] Speeding

2008-11-22 Thread Dan Weeks
On cross-country trips, I used to regularly cruise at triple digits  
and never got a ticket. I only traveled these speeds, however, behind  
expensive european touring cars that were very well driven and had  
radar detectors. I gave them plenty of room and drove smoothly and  
carefully. Now, of course, no one drives that fast any more, so  
neither do I. Only did so in very good weather, in my Merkur Scorpio.  
That car would really fly, and handled extremely well--better than my  
300SD. The 300SD I also cruised pretty fast--90s or so. Mostly on I80,  
I 90, I 94, and most reliable on Quebec 401, but by the time I got it,  
the fast driving days were mostly over.


Only tickets I've every gotten were at a few miles over the speed  
limit, in town or on two-lanes, when I wasn't paying attention and  
didn't think I was speeding.


Dan


On Nov 21, 2008, at 7:51 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Randy wrote: Even if one assumes a 75 mph speed limit, 129 is mort  
than 50 mph over the limit. That sort of thing often equates to  
large fines, seized vehicles and taking the bus to work for a few  
months.


I agree and I don't think I will ever drive 120 mph (at least not  
again).  I did test out the fuel cut-off switch on my Oldsmobile  
Cutlass Ciera.  At 110 the fuel cuts off and the car starts bucking  
and jerking until you get below 110.  But, I had a good excuse.  I  
was going from Topeka, Kansas to Lawrence, Kansas on the turnpike.   
I was running late for the Washburn Law Golf tournament.  I couldn't  
be late.  I knew all the Troopers on that section of the turnpike.   
But, I don't think I will be going that fast anytime soon.


When I am out in Western Kansas and the roads are wide open and flat  
I will routinely drive 95-100 - at least in my old 300SEL.  Once  
that big car got going, it would really fly. I haven't tried it in  
the Volvo. I wonder how many RPM's that little four cylinder would  
be turning at that speed.


I once got pulled over going 100 in Arkansas.  My grandfather had  
died. I was racing down to the Mississippi gulf coast to meet my  
father.  I had my ticket in hand. I told the cop why I was speeding  
and showed him the plane ticket to show my urgency.  He didn't give  
me a ticket, but told me to slow down.



Donald H. Snook



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[MBZ] Glow Plug Testing

2008-11-22 Thread Robert Rentfro
Symptoms:

*   No glow light
*   Car will not start (plenty-o-juice)

What I've done:

*   Replaced glow plug relay-still no light, no start

What I did next:

*   Checked continuity from ignition side of 50 amp fuse all the way to
last glow plug.all good.

Will I still have continuity if a glow plug is bad?

What should I do next?  

 

Bob R

77 300D 193K

'05 E320 62K 

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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Testing

2008-11-22 Thread OK Don
This is about the '77 300D, isn't it? Original glow plug type and circuit?

Not if the last glow plug is open (burnt). Measure resistance from it
to ground (with it disconnected from the circuit).

 Will I still have continuity if a glow plug is bad?

 What should I do next?

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and
mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.  - Ernest Hemingway
'90 300D (Rattled),  '92 300D (Saber), ''97 Ply Grand Voyager (Vincent van-go)

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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Testing

2008-11-22 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 22 Nov 2008 19:29:06 -0700 Robert Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 * Checked continuity from ignition side of 50 amp fuse all the way
 to last glow plug.all good.

I presume this means you used an ohmmeter and put one probe on the 50 A
fuse and the other probe on the glow plug's terminal. Correct?


 Will I still have continuity if a glow plug is bad?

If you did what I wrote above, yes. Do you have voltage (10 - 12 V) on
each of the glow plugs' terminals when the plugs should be glowing?


 What should I do next?

If you have voltage, pull all of the glow plugs and, one by one, jumper
them across the car's battery with some vice-grips and a 12 - 14 gauge
wire. Grab the hex of the plug with the vice-grips and connect one end ot
the wire to one battery terminal. Touch the vice-grips to the other
battery terminal and the wire to the center post on the glow plug. The end
of the plug should glow bright orange. Of course, I shouldn't have to say
something glowing orange is very hot and can inflict serious burns even
after it's stopped glowing orange. The vice-grips grabbing the hex of the
glow plug is to keep you from getting burnt.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Testing

2008-11-22 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 22 Nov 2008 21:05:47 -0600 OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 This is about the '77 300D, isn't it? Original glow plug type and
 circuit?

OOPS! The glow plug testing information I just gave is for PARALLEL glow
plugs, not series glow plugs. If you remove the plugs and see a circular
loop of wire, DO NOT use the advice I just gave!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

2008-11-22 Thread Bill R
You forgot to mention how much fun running an excavator would be! I don't
think I could actually get my wife to let me do such a thing.  I need to
avoid exertion and stress, and I can tolerate neither cold nor heat.  I do
think we are ok now with the muriatic acid, though.  It seems to be running
fine.
BillR   

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Hendrik  Fay
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 7:24 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

Talking about septic tanks (which is rhyming slang for yanks BTW), my 
mothers septic is overflowing badly and she got some people out to see 
what the problem is. According to the experts she needs a new you beaut 
AU$11,000 septic system put in. Me being a skeptic smelled a rat because 
according to these 'experts' the ground was saturated and could not 
absorb the amount of overflow coming out. Funny thing is that we are in 
a drought and have not had a lot of water. Just so happens that a while 
back I bought a little half tonne micro excavator (a Kobelco SK005, 
which is now sporting a Chinese copy of the original Yanmar single 
cylinder Diesel engine because the original Yanmar got dusted due to a 
cracked inlet manifold) to do some landscaping around the house.
Anyway took the excavator around to her place and started digging, turns 
out the pipe where the overflow comes out was blocked with soil. Had I 
know where the outlet was located I could have fixed her supposedly 
stuffed septic in half an hour with a spade. However know that I have 
the machine there I am going to install a proper Rein trench, which 
should last for quite some time and the total cost of the job should 
come in well under a grand.
It makes me angry the way some of the trades people are ripping off 
unwary consumers, these dickheads did not make any effort to properly 
inspect the set up and determine the exact cause of the septic 
overflowing but instead made a few assumptions and did the thing that 
makes them the most money.

Far as Bill's problems go, my suggestion is that if you are going to be 
living there for a while yet, get the system fixed up properly. As 
chemicals and pipe worms are a temporary solution.
You can hire little excavators for a couple of hundred a day, they are 
not hard to operate on flat ground.

Hendrik

Bill R wrote:
 Thanks Loren.  I was assuming it was something like that but it does help
to
 know.  Turns out that the blockage is about 10' down and out from the spot
 it goes into the wall between the entry hall and the kitchen.  I now have
a
 12 x 12 hole in the entry hall wall just in case we could put a cleanout
 there.  Not really any way, though maybe inside the cabinet.  We took the
 big copper pipe off entirely - and it was about eaten through - and will
 replace it with pvc. A snake going down the cast iron pipe back there hit
an
 obstruction, and we now have a slow drain once more.  This gives me some
 hope it can be cured without digging.  Going for a bit of the heavy duty
 pipe cleaner stuff [muratic acid?] that should eat through nearly anything
 that might be there, and the copper sulfate should take care of any roots
if
 those were adding to the problems.  This seems like a lot when we were
 looking at a slow drain; it looks a lot less when compared to bringing in
a
 plumber and digging under the slab.  We should know tonight.
 BillR   
   
   


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Re: [MBZ] Swing axles

2008-11-22 Thread RELNGSON
 ...a horizontal compensating spring was fitted between the rear axle and 
 the right axle shaft to keep the car more stable under various driving 
 conditions.
 
 So I guess it was a necessary improvement, but I don't understand how the 
 spring contributes to stability
 
It reduces the tendency to jack up in cornering like a swing axle VW or 
Triumph Spitfire, thereby puting the rear tires on their outer edges reducing 
traction. I installed a Camber Compensator on my VW KG long ago. And I think 
I 
may have installed on on my Porsche 356B.

The handling of those old Benzs was not all that good.

RLE





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Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

2008-11-22 Thread Bill R
Yes, we do indeed have a garbage disposal of two of three kitchen sinks into
two septic tanks.  We are sort of careful about what goes into them, though.
The exception to that would be the quart of old ham salad my darling wife
decided to dump into ours.  We have had some kitchen drain problems since
then.  A high percentage of homes in Jacksonville have septic tanks, which
is one reason the river is polluted.  The city is doing some major
installations of sewer lines in many areas, but are starting with the low
areas first.  We are not far from the river, but are at 54' so flooding is
only likely if the Atlantic ocean rises more than 50'.  Should that happen a
flooded septic system will be the least of our worries.
BillR

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Allan Streib
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 8:32 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

Garbage disposal?  On a septic?  Or am I getting my threads confused?

Here it's against code to have a garbage disposal on a septic.  We never
put food or grease down the drain -- into the trash.  Or into the woods,
sometimes.

Allan


Bill R [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Allen -  Your design was what we were going for, but when we got into the
 wall there is a stacked iron pipe that goes up as well as down, and also
has
 a lateral run going behind the stove inside the wall.  I don't know what
the
 original configuration of the kitchen was, but it seems it is quite
 different now. I don't think there is a decent way to do a cleanout unless
 we can fit one between the iron pipe inside the wall and the new drain,
but
 it would have to be in the space between the wall and the end of the
cabinet
 [about 6].  Doesn't seem practical.  I suspect the main thing would be to
 convince my darling wife that if she ever wishes to dispose of a quart of
 old ham salad again that the trash can is a far better place than the
 garbage disposal.  The way it will be put together we will be able snake
it
 from the junction of the PVC and the rubber connector if we need to again.
 Your input much appreciated.
 Thanks - BillR   


-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] OT, vista again

2008-11-22 Thread Luther
Insert any Linux bootable CD. 
Format the hard drive as FAT32. 
Reboot and insert XP install disk and follow all prompts.


Luther

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
I would rather use XP, but this new computer I have had for a while 
came with Vista, and its very difficult to go back to xp on it.


--
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (281,xxx mi)
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast
'82 300CD (183 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine The Accordion


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Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

2008-11-22 Thread Bill R
Had it pumped out last year.  Should be good for another year.
BillR

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 8:38 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

The normal septic failure mode is when you go too long without pumping the 
solids out of the tank, and the solid stuff starts making it into the 2nd 
chamber and through the outlet, where the crap plugs the drainfield pipes.

Mitch


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[MBZ] '92 300E 4matic

2008-11-22 Thread E M
Hi Everyone, need some advise.

There is a local 300E with just over 100,000 miles.  Said to be in very good
shape, certified, emissions tested etc.  I've head they had some problems
with the transfer cases on the 4matic cars?  He's asking $2900.  Is there a
way to tell if the transfer case is giving problems, or are these cars best
avoided.

We can get a fair bit of snow here in the city, but they are good at
clearing the roads and salting.  My 300E 2 wheel drive only got a little
stuck once last winter, but I really was asking a lot from the car when it
happened. ;-)

Thanks for your thoughts.

Ed
300E
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Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

2008-11-22 Thread Rich Thomas
I need one of those excavator thingies.  I don't really have a use for 
it at this time, but the idea of having one is the balls.


--R

Hendrik  Fay wrote:
Talking about septic tanks (which is rhyming slang for yanks BTW), my 
mothers septic is overflowing badly and she got some people out to see 
what the problem is. According to the experts she needs a new you 
beaut AU$11,000 septic system put in. Me being a skeptic smelled a rat 
because according to these 'experts' the ground was saturated and 
could not absorb the amount of overflow coming out. Funny thing is 
that we are in a drought and have not had a lot of water. Just so 
happens that a while back I bought a little half tonne micro excavator 
(a Kobelco SK005, which is now sporting a Chinese copy of the original 
Yanmar single cylinder Diesel engine because the original Yanmar got 
dusted due to a cracked inlet manifold) to do some landscaping around 
the house.
Anyway took the excavator around to her place and started digging, 
turns out the pipe where the overflow comes out was blocked with soil. 
Had I know where the outlet was located I could have fixed her 
supposedly stuffed septic in half an hour with a spade. However know 
that I have the machine there I am going to install a proper Rein 
trench, which should last for quite some time and the total cost of 
the job should come in well under a grand.
It makes me angry the way some of the trades people are ripping off 
unwary consumers, these dickheads did not make any effort to properly 
inspect the set up and determine the exact cause of the septic 
overflowing but instead made a few assumptions and did the thing that 
makes them the most money.


Far as Bill's problems go, my suggestion is that if you are going to 
be living there for a while yet, get the system fixed up properly. As 
chemicals and pipe worms are a temporary solution.
You can hire little excavators for a couple of hundred a day, they are 
not hard to operate on flat ground.


Hendrik

Bill R wrote:
Thanks Loren.  I was assuming it was something like that but it does 
help to
know.  Turns out that the blockage is about 10' down and out from the 
spot
it goes into the wall between the entry hall and the kitchen.  I now 
have a
12 x 12 hole in the entry hall wall just in case we could put a 
cleanout
there.  Not really any way, though maybe inside the cabinet.  We took 
the

big copper pipe off entirely - and it was about eaten through - and will
replace it with pvc. A snake going down the cast iron pipe back there 
hit an

obstruction, and we now have a slow drain once more.  This gives me some
hope it can be cured without digging.  Going for a bit of the heavy duty
pipe cleaner stuff [muratic acid?] that should eat through nearly 
anything
that might be there, and the copper sulfate should take care of any 
roots if

those were adding to the problems.  This seems like a lot when we were
looking at a slow drain; it looks a lot less when compared to 
bringing in a

plumber and digging under the slab.  We should know tonight.
BillR   



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Re: [MBZ] OT, vista again

2008-11-22 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 22 Nov 2008 21:42:29 -0600 Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Insert any Linux bootable CD. 
 Format the hard drive as FAT32.

Actually formatting it as the default (ext2 or ext3) works very well. Then
XP says, I DON'T KNOW WHAT THIS IS! and you can have XP format it NTFS,
which is much better than FAT32.


 Reboot and insert XP install disk and follow all prompts.

Yup, and wait around during the entire install because XP doesn't ask all
the questions first like Linux typically does.


Craig

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[MBZ] Backhoes [was: Re: plumbing / chemical help needed]

2008-11-22 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 22 Nov 2008 23:08:00 -0500 Rich Thomas
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I need one of those excavator thingies.  I don't really have a use for 
 it at this time, but the idea of having one is the balls.

I rented a full-sized backhoe a few summers ago to put in a water line
around the side of the house and dig up a huge stump that was next to the
driveway. The tree had been cut down before we bought the place because
its roots had heaved and broken the driveway. We found roots 6 in
diameter 20 feet away from the tree. The water line's path required
cutting through the roots of a large maple about 5 feet away from the
tree, so the full-sized backhoe was what was required. Those and the tuff
made things interesting. Also interesting was when I was digging up by the
street and hit the gas line that I knew was there ...


Craig

P.S. I have LOTS of pictures if anyone is interested.

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Re: [MBZ] OT, vista again

2008-11-22 Thread Luther
Re: ext2/3...I didn't know XP would write over it or even know that the 
partition was there? 


Luther

Craig McCluskey wrote:

On Sat, 22 Nov 2008 21:42:29 -0600 Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  
Insert any Linux bootable CD. 
Format the hard drive as FAT32.



Actually formatting it as the default (ext2 or ext3) works very well. Then
XP says, I DON'T KNOW WHAT THIS IS! and you can have XP format it NTFS,
which is much better than FAT32.


  

Reboot and insert XP install disk and follow all prompts.



Yup, and wait around during the entire install because XP doesn't ask all
the questions first like Linux typically does.


Craig


--
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (281,xxx mi)
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast
'82 300CD (183 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine The Accordion

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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Testing

2008-11-22 Thread Jim Cathey

Diagnosing a series glow plug system is very simple:
Take a voltmeter and measure voltage between the center
and ring terminals of the glow plug.  While glowing,
each should show about 1V.  More and you have a bad
glow plug (or connection thereto), the higher the voltage
the worse.  12V indicates a burnt-out plug.  Less and
you probably have a problem elsewhere.  Look for the
high voltage.  Also ensure that the first plug is
getting around 12V to ground.  Might be a bit less due
to the 'salt shaker'.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] plumbing / chemical help needed

2008-11-22 Thread Jim Cathey
convince my darling wife that if she ever wishes to dispose of a quart 
of

old ham salad again that the trash can is a far better place than the
garbage disposal.


As was explained to me long ago: it's perfectly acceptable to
put food into a septic system, provided you have eaten it first.
Otherwise, not.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Spork plugs (380 SL)

2008-11-22 Thread Jim Cathey
Are the plugs in #6 and #7 normal (that is, do they have evidence of 
combustion)?  If not, and you have gasoline fouling, it's time to 
replace


At times.  #7 is badly oil-fouled, usually.  I've just replaced
its stem seals, so we'll see if that makes any difference.

the boot between the air horn of the fuel distributor and the throttle 
body, the throttle body to intake seal, and the seals between the two 
halves of the intake manifold (especially the latter).


The heads were off some time before I got it, and when I got it,
once sorted out, it ran very well.  But lately it does not.  Would
the manifold seals fail like that, so quickly?  I'd expect more
trouble from the rubber boot, I'll try to have a look at that.
It's down from 17 MPG to something more like 14 now.

This stuff hard to get to?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Spork plugs (380 SL)

2008-11-22 Thread Peter Frederick
Except for the boot between the air meter horn and the throttle body,  
yes.  Naturally, you have to remove the fuel distributor to replace  
the boot.


You have to pull the manifold to get to the throttle body seal and  
the manifold seals.  Sadly, there is no reason to think that whoever  
pulled the heads took the manifold apart to replace the seals (it's  
in two parts, bolted together, with a rubber ring between the halves  
at all 8 runners).


Also check for a leaking brake booster line or bad booster or other  
serious vacuum leak on that line -- IIRC, it screws into the rear of  
the manifold, and if there is a major leak there, it will cause the  
back two cylinders to run very lean.


Peter

On Nov 23, 2008, at 12:05 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:

Are the plugs in #6 and #7 normal (that is, do they have evidence  
of combustion)?  If not, and you have gasoline fouling, it's time  
to replace


At times.  #7 is badly oil-fouled, usually.  I've just replaced
its stem seals, so we'll see if that makes any difference.

the boot between the air horn of the fuel distributor and the  
throttle body, the throttle body to intake seal, and the seals  
between the two halves of the intake manifold (especially the  
latter).


The heads were off some time before I got it, and when I got it,
once sorted out, it ran very well.  But lately it does not.  Would
the manifold seals fail like that, so quickly?  I'd expect more
trouble from the rubber boot, I'll try to have a look at that.
It's down from 17 MPG to something more like 14 now.

This stuff hard to get to?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] OT, vista again

2008-11-22 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 22 Nov 2008 23:08:16 -0600 Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Re: ext2/3...I didn't know XP would write over it or even know that the 
 partition was there?

Yeah, the partition table is the standard sort, so XP knows a partition is
there, but the partition type number is something it doesn't understand.

When I was fighting with XP/Intel motherboard and BIOS problems last year
with 13 computers for a control system, I made sure I had a fresh install
of XP each time I reloaded (which were many) by loading Linux and then
re-loading XP. Loading Linux was quick and fun. Loading XP was slow and
painful.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT, vista again

2008-11-22 Thread Fmiser
It seems than at Sat, 22 Nov 2008 23:08:16 -0600, Luther wrote:

 Re: ext2/3...I didn't know XP would write over it or even know
 that the partition was there? 

The partition and the file system are two totally separate
things.

XP by default will not know what to do with the file system. But
it will recognize the partition.

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT, vista again

2008-11-22 Thread Gary Hurst
i'm a mandriva man myself, but there are lots of different flavors you can
use.

On Sat, Nov 22, 2008 at 10:42 PM, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Insert any Linux bootable CD. Format the hard drive as FAT32. Reboot and
 insert XP install disk and follow all prompts.

 Luther

 Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

 I would rather use XP, but this new computer I have had for a while came
 with Vista, and its very difficult to go back to xp on it.


 --
 Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
 '87 300SDL (281,xxx mi)
 '85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast
 '82 300CD (183 kmi)
 '82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
 '85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine The Accordion



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