Re: [MBZ] Iowa lobbyists & ADM behind this?

[Craig]

On Thu, 14 Oct 2010 20:35:30 -0400 Mitch Haley  wrote:

> Fortunately another pure-gas reader went there and actually tested the
> stuff, finding it at ~8% alcohol.

So, what's the easy way to test the amount of ethanol? Specific gravity?
Wouldn't condensed water in the gasoline affect that measurement?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Epoxy for seat belt buckle repair

[andrew strasfogel]

We have a winner!

On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 10:08 PM, Rich Thomas <
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:

>  Actually, having thought about it some more, skip the candle business and
> just go get some soot from the deezel's exhaust pipe.  Somehow more fitting.
>
> --R
>
>
> On 10/14/2010 8:36 PM, OK Don wrote:
>
>> Now, THAT's my type of solution to a problem! I love it!
>>
>> On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 2:56 PM, Rich Thomas<
>> richthomas79td...@constructivity.net>  wrote:
>>
>>If you want to REALLY cheap out, get a metal jar lid or something and
>>> let
>>> a candle flame burn below it for minute, you'll get some black soot on
>>> there, then put your epoxy on that and mix it.
>>>
>>> --R
>>>
>>>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

[Rich Thomas]

 I took off the caliper from the SD to try to extract the broken 
bleeder nipple, and managed to bugger the whole thing beyond fixing, so 
I guess it is off to McParts to get another caliper tomorrow.  Broke an 
extractor, had to go after that with various implements.  Tried to drill 
out the nipple, wouldn't come out, tried to run a tap down it, no good 
(8mm should anyone care).  Hot wrench, chisels, punch, etc. no good.  
The thing is not rusty or too goobered up, so unsure why that nipple was 
so frozen in there.  Kind of a pissa that a $2 nipple would cause so 
much problem.


Also noticed the pad sensor wire was neatly cut, and no sensors in the 
pads.  Hmmm  Have to ponder that one a bit.  Did not look at the 
other wheel, will do that tomorrow.


--R

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Re: [MBZ] Iowa lobbyists & ADM behind this?

[Rich Thomas]

 Uh, what's happening in 3 weeks?  And who needs a little boost from 
those who stand to gain from this idiocy?  The article in our local rag 
had a quote from the EPA idiot Lisa Something about how wonderful it was 
to be using home-grown fuel, etc. then listed about 8 different groups 
who opposed it for various reasons, while also mentioning the election 
in 3 weeks. Also mentioned problems with boats, small engines, etc.  But 
its wonderful for America!  (and ADM and the farmers who make good money 
off this huge subsidy and stupid waste of energy).


And don't get me going about the subsidies for all the processed crap in 
the grocery store that makes people hugely obese (75% of Americans are 
now overweight-->morbidly obese), thus costing the taxpayers even more 
to deal with them and their problems, in part caused by costs to 
taxpayers to support their bad life choices.


Ain't life grand?

--R

On 10/14/2010 7:44 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:

URGENT REGULATORY ALERT (UPDATE)
  EPA Denies E15 Waiver for Pre-2001 Cars, Permits Use in Newer Cars
  The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency confirmed that there is
insufficient test data to permit E15 to be used in MY 2000 and older light-duty 
motor
vehicles.  The SEMA Action Network (SAN) has consistently voiced concern
that ethanol increases water formation which can then create formic acid and
corrode metals, plastics and rubber.  While the SAN is pleased with the
decision that older cars should not be fueled with E15, the association is
disappointed that the EPA issued an E15 waiver for 2007 and newer vehicles.  The
agency is still gathering data for the 2001-2006 vehicles.  The EPA’s ruling
responds to a request from the ethanol industry to raise the ethanol content
in gasoline from 10 percent (E10) to 15 percent (E15). 
  Consumers will not see E15 at the pump any time soon.  The EPA must first

approve regulations on how gas stations will label their pumps to avoid
consumer misfueling.  This will take months.  Furthermore, there is no
obligation that gasoline retailers market the fuel.  In fact, some retailers 
oppose
the fuel over concern that they could be held liable if E15 damages a
vehicle.  The gas stations and distributors may also need to invest in new 
storage
tanks, hoses and other equipment.
  The SAN will continue to oppose E15 until there are conclusive scientific
findings that demonstrate that it will not harm automobiles of any age as a
result of corrosion or other chemical incompatibilities.  SEMA represents
thousands of companies that market products for these vehicles and, through
its SEMA Action Network, millions of enthusiasts who buy and operate these
automobiles.   Questions/comments may be directed to Steve McDonald at
ste...@sema.org. 


RLE
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Re: [MBZ] OK Don

[Dieselhead]

That is what I forgot to add.  A shaker is a very interesting and, as 
OK Don says, cool, (as long as there is no major damage).  Just a 
reminder that no matter how much we think we can control things, we 
are not in control.  The cracker I heard coming down the mountainside 
rated about 6.5.



We felt this one for about 20 seconds,and heard a low rumbling sound as
well. I was about 30 miles from the epicenter. My wife was in our backyard,
about 9 miles from the epicenter, but didn't notice hearing it. A man was
driving to our office during it, and didn't notice it at all. As long as it
didn't hurt anything, it's kind of cool.

http://www.okgeosurvey1.gov/



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Re: [MBZ] Epoxy for seat belt buckle repair

[Rich Thomas]

 Actually, having thought about it some more, skip the candle business 
and just go get some soot from the deezel's exhaust pipe.  Somehow more 
fitting.


--R

On 10/14/2010 8:36 PM, OK Don wrote:

Now, THAT's my type of solution to a problem! I love it!

On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 2:56 PM, Rich Thomas<
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net>  wrote:


   If you want to REALLY cheap out, get a metal jar lid or something and let
a candle flame burn below it for minute, you'll get some black soot on
there, then put your epoxy on that and mix it.

--R



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Re: [MBZ] brake warning light

[RELNGSON]

> ...Possible, that's why I need to explore.
> Had something similar in my Mums 190E, the brake sensor had partially
> come out of it's hole and there was still a good 1/3 of the pad left
> when the light came on...
> 
Next time you're driving, look down to see if your left foot is on the 
brake pedal. 

I don't see how you could wear down to the sensor in less that 10K miles, 
anyway. Even my 201s which ate pads were getting 14K miles on the fronts and 
27K miles on the rears. Thank God those days are gone forever. 40K miles+ is 
the new normal.

Does the low fluid level warning use the same lamp, thinking of the rear 
half of the reservoir?

RLE

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Re: [MBZ] OK Don

[Dieselhead]

Best one I ever heard was when we lived on the Big Island.  I was 
asleep and woke up.  I heard a crack coming down the mountainside and 
getting louder as it got closer.  It didn't rattle much, but the 
sound was magnificent.  It was several seconds coming down the 
mountain.  Unfortunately, the rest of the family was on the mainland, 
so nobody else got to hear it.


Most of the shakers I have been through happened when I was driving 
and I never even noticed it.  But that one was very memorable.



It's kinda a disconcerting feeling. We had a REALLY mild one in MD a 
while back... I was shaving at the time and the sliding mirrors in 
the medicine cabinet started rattling...
I went and stuck my head outside and didn't hear anything... I came 
back inside and the mirror was still rattling.  I eventually figured 
it must have been a mild tremor.


On the train to work I checked the news and didn't see anything, it 
then the people at work were talking about it...


---
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Oct 13, 2010, at 20:56, OK Don  wrote:


 Nope - it wasn't one of mine! It was rather exciting though - my first one.


http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/eqarchives/last_event/states/states_oklahoma.php


 On Wed, Oct 13, 2010 at 7:09 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin 
wrote:



 Did one of your cars blow up today?  Seems there was some rocking and
 rolling going on in Norman.--


 OK Don
 2001 ML320
 1992 300D 2.5T
 1990 300D 2.5T
 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] OK Don

[OK Don]

We felt this one for about 20 seconds,and heard a low rumbling sound as
well. I was about 30 miles from the epicenter. My wife was in our backyard,
about 9 miles from the epicenter, but didn't notice hearing it. A man was
driving to our office during it, and didn't notice it at all. As long as it
didn't hurt anything, it's kind of cool.

http://www.okgeosurvey1.gov/

On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 8:14 PM, John Reames  wrote:

> It's kinda a disconcerting feeling. We had a REALLY mild one in MD a while
> back... I was shaving at the time and the sliding mirrors in the medicine
> cabinet started rattling...
> I went and stuck my head outside and didn't hear anything... I came back
> inside and the mirror was still rattling.  I eventually figured it must have
> been a mild tremor.
>
> On the train to work I checked the news and didn't see anything, it then
> the people at work were talking about it...
>
> ---
> John W Reames
>

OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: w126 Cluster

[Jim Cathey]

the traces on the board became fuses.


I did this on the 380SL.  Easy enough to open it up
and bridge across the blown trace.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Brake dramas, should I go ceramic?

[Jim Cathey]

I had a wire brushing the edge of the disc, once.
Flicker, flicker, flicker.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] OK Don

[John Reames]

It's kinda a disconcerting feeling. We had a REALLY mild one in MD a while 
back... I was shaving at the time and the sliding mirrors in the medicine 
cabinet started rattling... 
I went and stuck my head outside and didn't hear anything... I came back inside 
and the mirror was still rattling.  I eventually figured it must have been a 
mild tremor.

On the train to work I checked the news and didn't see anything, it then the 
people at work were talking about it...

---
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Oct 13, 2010, at 20:56, OK Don  wrote:

> Nope - it wasn't one of mine! It was rather exciting though - my first one.
> 
> http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/eqarchives/last_event/states/states_oklahoma.php
> 
> 
> On Wed, Oct 13, 2010 at 7:09 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> 
>> Did one of your cars blow up today?  Seems there was some rocking and
>> rolling going on in Norman.--
>> 
> OK Don
> 2001 ML320
> 1992 300D 2.5T
> 1990 300D 2.5T
> 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Epoxy for seat belt buckle repair

[John Reames]

Lampblack would certainly work better than toner since toner has all sorts of 
other ... Stuff ... Whereas lamp lack is probably almost pure carbon.

BTW darned good idea! 

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Oct 14, 2010, at 20:36, OK Don  wrote:

> Now, THAT's my type of solution to a problem! I love it!
> 
> On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 2:56 PM, Rich Thomas <
> richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:
> 
>>  If you want to REALLY cheap out, get a metal jar lid or something and let
>> a candle flame burn below it for minute, you'll get some black soot on
>> there, then put your epoxy on that and mix it.
>> 
>> --R
>> 
> -- 
> OK Don
> 2001 ML320
> 1992 300D 2.5T
> 1990 300D 2.5T
> 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Brake dramas, should I go ceramic?

[Hendrik & Fay]

Possible, that's why I need to explore.
Had something similar in my Mums 190E, the brake sensor had partially 
come out of it's hole and there was still a good 1/3 of the pad left 
when the light came on.


Hendrik

OK Don wrote:

Another possibility is that the wire to the caliper/pad is rubbing somewhere
else and shorting - causing the light to flicker while the pad is still
good.

On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 7:40 PM, Hendrik & Fay wrote:

  

The bloody brake light in the TE has come on again, I did the brakes (new
ATE pads and rotors) not even 15K km ago.
I haven't had a chance to have a look but from the way the light is
flickering it looks like the pads are stuffed. I may have a problem such as
a sticking piston but won't know until I pull the brakes apart, time for a
flush anyway.
Anyway now the Oz bean is worth about as much as your cotton rag, I might
go the Akebono route and give Rusty some business (I see he has 124 rotors
on sale but the shipping for those would be crazy perhaps that sexy pack of
fuses might have to be the go
http://www.buymbparts.biz/content.wws?fname=specials.html ), however with
the ceramics there are two schools of thought, those who say they are the
ducks guts and those who reckon they don't work well when they are cold.
However I am confident Rusty wouldn't flog them if there was a chance that
they are not up to the job.
The other problem is that my other car is on loan for the time being, so we
are down to one car, guess once the ute makes a reappearance I'll suzz out
why the pads have been eaten in a short space of time (perhaps the missus is
driving with one foot on the brakes) and then sent out for a care package
from the US of A.

Hendrik
who should have bought Akebonos while he was in the US








  



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Re: [MBZ] Brake dramas, should I go ceramic?

[Mitch Haley]

I can't speak for Akebono, but the Wagner ceramics I put on the Olds last month 
do not seem to be at all temp sensitive. Between the 40% store coupon and the 
$15 factory rebate, I couldn't pass up the Wagner pads.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Brake dramas, should I go ceramic?

[OK Don]

Another possibility is that the wire to the caliper/pad is rubbing somewhere
else and shorting - causing the light to flicker while the pad is still
good.

On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 7:40 PM, Hendrik & Fay wrote:

> The bloody brake light in the TE has come on again, I did the brakes (new
> ATE pads and rotors) not even 15K km ago.
> I haven't had a chance to have a look but from the way the light is
> flickering it looks like the pads are stuffed. I may have a problem such as
> a sticking piston but won't know until I pull the brakes apart, time for a
> flush anyway.
> Anyway now the Oz bean is worth about as much as your cotton rag, I might
> go the Akebono route and give Rusty some business (I see he has 124 rotors
> on sale but the shipping for those would be crazy perhaps that sexy pack of
> fuses might have to be the go
> http://www.buymbparts.biz/content.wws?fname=specials.html ), however with
> the ceramics there are two schools of thought, those who say they are the
> ducks guts and those who reckon they don't work well when they are cold.
> However I am confident Rusty wouldn't flog them if there was a chance that
> they are not up to the job.
> The other problem is that my other car is on loan for the time being, so we
> are down to one car, guess once the ute makes a reappearance I'll suzz out
> why the pads have been eaten in a short space of time (perhaps the missus is
> driving with one foot on the brakes) and then sent out for a care package
> from the US of A.
>
> Hendrik
> who should have bought Akebonos while he was in the US
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>



-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Epoxy for seat belt buckle repair

[OK Don]

Now, THAT's my type of solution to a problem! I love it!

On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 2:56 PM, Rich Thomas <
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:

>   If you want to REALLY cheap out, get a metal jar lid or something and let
> a candle flame burn below it for minute, you'll get some black soot on
> there, then put your epoxy on that and mix it.
>
> --R
>
-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] OK Don is shaking all over

[OK Don]

Hey! I resemble that remark!

On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 7:22 PM, Hendrik & Fay wrote:

> I was going to say all sorts of things about the ground shaking and the
> earth moving but I am not like that.
> However I may add that perhaps God is punishing those Godless heathens in
> their nest of sin and ML's.
> Then again Reggy is probably preying that the earth will open up and
> swallow the Kaleb collection.
>
> Hendrik
> who makes the earth move
>
> OK Don wrote:
>
>> Nope - it wasn't one of mine! It was rather exciting though - my first
>> one.
>>
>>
>> http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/eqarchives/last_event/states/states_oklahoma.php
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 13, 2010 at 7:09 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin > >wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>  Did one of your cars blow up today?  Seems there was some rocking and
>>> rolling going on in Norman.--
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> --
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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[MBZ] Brake dramas, should I go ceramic?

[Hendrik & Fay]

The bloody brake light in the TE has come on again, I did the brakes 
(new ATE pads and rotors) not even 15K km ago.
I haven't had a chance to have a look but from the way the light is 
flickering it looks like the pads are stuffed. I may have a problem such 
as a sticking piston but won't know until I pull the brakes apart, time 
for a flush anyway.
Anyway now the Oz bean is worth about as much as your cotton rag, I 
might go the Akebono route and give Rusty some business (I see he has 
124 rotors on sale but the shipping for those would be crazy perhaps 
that sexy pack of fuses might have to be the go 
http://www.buymbparts.biz/content.wws?fname=specials.html ), however 
with the ceramics there are two schools of thought, those who say they 
are the ducks guts and those who reckon they don't work well when they 
are cold. However I am confident Rusty wouldn't flog them if there was a 
chance that they are not up to the job.
The other problem is that my other car is on loan for the time being, so 
we are down to one car, guess once the ute makes a reappearance I'll 
suzz out why the pads have been eaten in a short space of time (perhaps 
the missus is driving with one foot on the brakes) and then sent out for 
a care package from the US of A.


Hendrik
who should have bought Akebonos while he was in the US

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Re: [MBZ] Iowa lobbyists & ADM behind this?

[Mitch Haley]

If they come up with a federal requirement to tell the consumer exactly how much 
ethanol he's buying, and don't mandate that retailers sell E-anything, then it 
might be a good thing.


Michigan, Indiana and Ohio don't require labeling unless it's E85, so I can 
either call every station in town and buy E10 from the one where an idiot clerk 
tells me its actually E0, or I can go around with a gallon can and a graduated 
cylinder and test it myself.


I checked http://pure-gas.org/ and some fool listed a Meijer store 25 miles away 
as selling pure gas. I checked the details and he said he'd asked everywhere and 
only this Meijer told him it was alcohol free. Apparently he was stupid to 
believe that individuals stores in this chain, sort of like a regional Wal-Mart, 
had their own separate deals with gasoline refiners. Fortunately another 
pure-gas reader went there and actually tested the stuff, finding it at ~8% 
alcohol.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OK Don is shaking all over

[Hendrik & Fay]

I was going to say all sorts of things about the ground shaking and the 
earth moving but I am not like that.
However I may add that perhaps God is punishing those Godless heathens 
in their nest of sin and ML's.
Then again Reggy is probably preying that the earth will open up and 
swallow the Kaleb collection.


Hendrik
who makes the earth move

OK Don wrote:

Nope - it wasn't one of mine! It was rather exciting though - my first one.

http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/eqarchives/last_event/states/states_oklahoma.php


On Wed, Oct 13, 2010 at 7:09 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

  

 Did one of your cars blow up today?  Seems there was some rocking and
rolling going on in Norman.--



OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager

  



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mercedes@okiebenz.com

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

 Yes, thats all there is to it.

On 10/13/2010 9:33 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:

I'd like to get the fan on my 500SEL out of the way


Aren't these held in with four 10mm short bolts?

-- Jim



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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.862 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3193 - Release Date: 10/12/10 
13:37:00



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] Iowa lobbyists & ADM behind this?

[RELNGSON]

URGENT REGULATORY ALERT (UPDATE)
 EPA Denies E15 Waiver for Pre-2001 Cars, Permits Use in Newer Cars
 The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency confirmed that there is 
insufficient test data to permit E15 to be used in MY 2000 and older light-duty 
motor 
vehicles.  The SEMA Action Network (SAN) has consistently voiced concern 
that ethanol increases water formation which can then create formic acid and 
corrode metals, plastics and rubber.  While the SAN is pleased with the 
decision that older cars should not be fueled with E15, the association is 
disappointed that the EPA issued an E15 waiver for 2007 and newer vehicles.  
The 
agency is still gathering data for the 2001-2006 vehicles.  The EPA’s ruling 
responds to a request from the ethanol industry to raise the ethanol content 
in gasoline from 10 percent (E10) to 15 percent (E15). 
 Consumers will not see E15 at the pump any time soon.  The EPA must first 
approve regulations on how gas stations will label their pumps to avoid 
consumer misfueling.  This will take months.  Furthermore, there is no 
obligation that gasoline retailers market the fuel.  In fact, some retailers 
oppose 
the fuel over concern that they could be held liable if E15 damages a 
vehicle.  The gas stations and distributors may also need to invest in new 
storage 
tanks, hoses and other equipment.
 The SAN will continue to oppose E15 until there are conclusive scientific 
findings that demonstrate that it will not harm automobiles of any age as a 
result of corrosion or other chemical incompatibilities.  SEMA represents 
thousands of companies that market products for these vehicles and, through 
its SEMA Action Network, millions of enthusiasts who buy and operate these 
automobiles.   Questions/comments may be directed to Steve McDonald at 
ste...@sema.org. 

RLE
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[MBZ] no cranking sometimes in P ('84 300D)

[glenn brown]

Re: If the shifter is sloppy, the plastic bushings at each end of the rod from 
the shifter to the trans need to be replaced first.
 
The shifter is not sloppy and when I've jiggled the shifter when the car won't 
start in P, no success but, since I've got numerous things which I want to 
address with my TD will keep me outa' trouble for awhile and the D will start 
in N, I'll wait to deal with this issue.  Thanx all.
 
G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC   
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Re: [MBZ] Epoxy for seat belt buckle repair

[andrew strasfogel]

I think I prefer the idea of by sanding the repaired surface and then spray
painting it glossy black, taking care to mask the metal bayonet part.

On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 3:56 PM, Rich Thomas <
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:

>  Just go to hobby store (you have a Michaels around?) and get a little
> bottle of pigment.  You will need just a touch.  Put your base on a piece of
> cardboard, put a touch of pigment on, stir it around with a little stick,
> then put a squeeze of the catalyst on and mix it, yer good ta go, no more
> mess than just mixing the epoxy.  If you want to REALLY cheap out, get a
> metal jar lid or something and let a candle flame burn below it for minute,
> you'll get some black soot on there, then put your epoxy on that and mix it.
>
> --R
>
>
> On 10/14/2010 3:26 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
>
>> I can just see myself making a HUGE mess.  Is the JB Weld stuff paintable
>> when dry and cured?
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 12:38 PM, John Reames
>>  wrote:
>>
>> Look for toner for the old color laserjet and color laserjet 5's. They
>>> used
>>> "loose" toner in bottles.
>>>
>>> --
>>> John W Reames
>>> jwrea...@comcast.net
>>> Home: +14106646986
>>> Mobile: +14437915905
>>>
>>> On Oct 12, 2010, at 14:13, Rich Thomas<
>>> richthomas79td...@constructivity.net>  wrote:
>>>
>>> I actually learned that from some guy at the Furniture Makers Show in

>>> Kerrville TX a few years back -- he would fill voids in mesquite boards
>>> with
>>> epoxy colored with that, and mix in turquoise, you then sand it down and
>>> you
>>> have a beautiful filler that lends a real nice note to the wood.  I use
>>> the
>>> technique now on lots of stuff I make.  The turquoise in black is
>>> awesome,
>>> like stars in the sky.
>>>
 I have some toner carts from a color printer in a box somewhere, red
 blue

>>> and yellow I think, maybe a 4th color too, from which I have not yet
>>> actively extracted the toner (it seems to extract itself quite easily).
>>>  That might be cool.  I use the standard fiberglass epoxy which is mostly
>>> clearish, sets up a bit yellow but the toner dust turns it black black
>>> black, and you only need a very small amount.  Just mix a bit in the base
>>> part of the epoxy, stir it well, then add your catalyst and yer good ta
>>> go.
>>>
 You can also used unsanded tile grout, which comes in lots of colors but

>>> in large packages, or dry pigment you get at the hobby store, which comes
>>> in
>>> even more colors and small bottles.  I like "free" better though.
>>>
 --R

 On 10/12/2010 1:38 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

> Thanks.  BTW, how do you come up with these ideas??
>
>  *or you can mix in a little bit of laser toner dust to give it a good
>
 deep
>>>
 black color (which I do to fill in wood*
>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Epoxy for seat belt buckle repair

[Rich Thomas]

 Just go to hobby store (you have a Michaels around?) and get a little 
bottle of pigment.  You will need just a touch.  Put your base on a 
piece of cardboard, put a touch of pigment on, stir it around with a 
little stick, then put a squeeze of the catalyst on and mix it, yer good 
ta go, no more mess than just mixing the epoxy.  If you want to REALLY 
cheap out, get a metal jar lid or something and let a candle flame burn 
below it for minute, you'll get some black soot on there, then put your 
epoxy on that and mix it.


--R

On 10/14/2010 3:26 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

I can just see myself making a HUGE mess.  Is the JB Weld stuff paintable
when dry and cured?


On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 12:38 PM, John Reames  wrote:


Look for toner for the old color laserjet and color laserjet 5's. They used
"loose" toner in bottles.

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Oct 12, 2010, at 14:13, Rich Thomas<
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net>  wrote:


I actually learned that from some guy at the Furniture Makers Show in

Kerrville TX a few years back -- he would fill voids in mesquite boards with
epoxy colored with that, and mix in turquoise, you then sand it down and you
have a beautiful filler that lends a real nice note to the wood.  I use the
technique now on lots of stuff I make.  The turquoise in black is awesome,
like stars in the sky.

I have some toner carts from a color printer in a box somewhere, red blue

and yellow I think, maybe a 4th color too, from which I have not yet
actively extracted the toner (it seems to extract itself quite easily).
  That might be cool.  I use the standard fiberglass epoxy which is mostly
clearish, sets up a bit yellow but the toner dust turns it black black
black, and you only need a very small amount.  Just mix a bit in the base
part of the epoxy, stir it well, then add your catalyst and yer good ta go.

You can also used unsanded tile grout, which comes in lots of colors but

in large packages, or dry pigment you get at the hobby store, which comes in
even more colors and small bottles.  I like "free" better though.

--R

On 10/12/2010 1:38 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

Thanks.  BTW, how do you come up with these ideas??

  *or you can mix in a little bit of laser toner dust to give it a good

deep

black color (which I do to fill in wood*




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Re: [MBZ] Epoxy for seat belt buckle repair

[andrew strasfogel]

Great - thanks.

On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 3:46 PM, Mitch Haley  wrote:

> andrew strasfogel wrote:
>
>> I can just see myself making a HUGE mess.  Is the JB Weld stuff paintable
>> when dry and cured?
>>
>
> Epoxy forms a waxy skin as it cures. You need to sand it lightly before you
> can get paint or more epoxy to really stick to it.
>
> Mitch.
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Epoxy for seat belt buckle repair

[Mitch Haley]

andrew strasfogel wrote:

I can just see myself making a HUGE mess.  Is the JB Weld stuff paintable
when dry and cured?


Epoxy forms a waxy skin as it cures. You need to sand it lightly before you can 
get paint or more epoxy to really stick to it.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Epoxy for seat belt buckle repair

[andrew strasfogel]

I can just see myself making a HUGE mess.  Is the JB Weld stuff paintable
when dry and cured?


On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 12:38 PM, John Reames  wrote:

> Look for toner for the old color laserjet and color laserjet 5's. They used
> "loose" toner in bottles.
>
> --
> John W Reames
> jwrea...@comcast.net
> Home: +14106646986
> Mobile: +14437915905
>
> On Oct 12, 2010, at 14:13, Rich Thomas <
> richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:
>
> > I actually learned that from some guy at the Furniture Makers Show in
> Kerrville TX a few years back -- he would fill voids in mesquite boards with
> epoxy colored with that, and mix in turquoise, you then sand it down and you
> have a beautiful filler that lends a real nice note to the wood.  I use the
> technique now on lots of stuff I make.  The turquoise in black is awesome,
> like stars in the sky.
> >
> > I have some toner carts from a color printer in a box somewhere, red blue
> and yellow I think, maybe a 4th color too, from which I have not yet
> actively extracted the toner (it seems to extract itself quite easily).
>  That might be cool.  I use the standard fiberglass epoxy which is mostly
> clearish, sets up a bit yellow but the toner dust turns it black black
> black, and you only need a very small amount.  Just mix a bit in the base
> part of the epoxy, stir it well, then add your catalyst and yer good ta go.
> >
> > You can also used unsanded tile grout, which comes in lots of colors but
> in large packages, or dry pigment you get at the hobby store, which comes in
> even more colors and small bottles.  I like "free" better though.
> >
> > --R
> >
> > On 10/12/2010 1:38 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
> >> Thanks.  BTW, how do you come up with these ideas??
> >>
> >>  *or you can mix in a little bit of laser toner dust to give it a good
> deep
> >> black color (which I do to fill in wood*
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> > ___
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> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] Epoxy for seat belt buckle repair

[John Reames]

Look for toner for the old color laserjet and color laserjet 5's. They used 
"loose" toner in bottles.

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Oct 12, 2010, at 14:13, Rich Thomas  
wrote:

> I actually learned that from some guy at the Furniture Makers Show in 
> Kerrville TX a few years back -- he would fill voids in mesquite boards with 
> epoxy colored with that, and mix in turquoise, you then sand it down and you 
> have a beautiful filler that lends a real nice note to the wood.  I use the 
> technique now on lots of stuff I make.  The turquoise in black is awesome, 
> like stars in the sky.
> 
> I have some toner carts from a color printer in a box somewhere, red blue and 
> yellow I think, maybe a 4th color too, from which I have not yet actively 
> extracted the toner (it seems to extract itself quite easily).  That might be 
> cool.  I use the standard fiberglass epoxy which is mostly clearish, sets up 
> a bit yellow but the toner dust turns it black black black, and you only need 
> a very small amount.  Just mix a bit in the base part of the epoxy, stir it 
> well, then add your catalyst and yer good ta go.
> 
> You can also used unsanded tile grout, which comes in lots of colors but in 
> large packages, or dry pigment you get at the hobby store, which comes in 
> even more colors and small bottles.  I like "free" better though.
> 
> --R
> 
> On 10/12/2010 1:38 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
>> Thanks.  BTW, how do you come up with these ideas??
>> 
>>  *or you can mix in a little bit of laser toner dust to give it a good deep
>> black color (which I do to fill in wood*
>> 
>> 
>>   
> 
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Re: [MBZ] w126 Cluster

[John Reames]

Pull the cluster and disassemble. Pay close attention to the circuit boards on 
the back of the speedometer and the gauges.

I have seen an incorrect removal severely damage them; the traces on the board 
became fuses.  I believe that the "failure mode" is that when the whole cluster 
is pulled, the battery is left connected and clock power lead is pulled before 
the round multiple-pin connector. If the clock lead hits the metal on the back 
of the clock--poof.

The reason is that the clock lead is always hot and the ground for the clock is 
via the speedo, which in turn gets it's ground from the other gauges (via the 
round connector)...

If this has happened, It MAY be possible to repair by judicious soldering of 
wire to the remaining bits of circuit board traces.

YMMV.


--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Oct 13, 2010, at 10:54, Mitch Haley  wrote:

> 
> When everything is dead, one has to wonder if the cluster is properly 
> grounded.
> 
> Mitch.
> 
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mercedes@okiebenz.com

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 7:56 AM, Jim Cathey  wrote:
>> Indeed it is, though I wouldn't have known they were there unless told
>> to feel for them, with so little room between the radiator and the
>> front of the fan!
>
> They're behind the viscous clutch, aren't they?  Quite visible,
> I thought, between the clutch and the pulley.
>

Yes, there are four 10mm bolts there, but you can't turn them without
also turning the water pump and thereby the crank, and I didn't have a
strap wrench handy or any other means to hold the water pump pulley in
place so as not to crank the engine backwards.  (When I tried to
loosen them the pulley actually moved _inside_ the belt.)  I thought
you were talking about the four that hold the fan to the clutch, also
10mm.

Alex

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mercedes@okiebenz.com

[Jim Cathey]

Indeed it is, though I wouldn't have known they were there unless told
to feel for them, with so little room between the radiator and the
front of the fan!


They're behind the viscous clutch, aren't they?  Quite visible,
I thought, between the clutch and the pulley.

-- Jim



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mercedes@okiebenz.com

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Wed, Oct 13, 2010 at 7:33 AM, Jim Cathey  wrote:
>> I'd like to get the fan on my 500SEL out of the way
>
> Aren't these held in with four 10mm short bolts?

Indeed it is, though I wouldn't have known they were there unless told
to feel for them, with so little room between the radiator and the
front of the fan!  I was fretting over nothing.  Now why couldn't they
have kept that arrangement on the OM603 and M103, I wonder?  Just not
enough space in the W124 engine bay?

The viscous clutch always seemed to me to be a great example of
unnecessary Benz overengineering, anyway.  What's wrong with a plain
old temperature-controlled electric fan?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] no cranking sometimes in P ('84 300D)

[Dieselhead]

Yes!  Good catch.  If the shifter is sloppy, the plastic bushings at 
each end of the rod from the shifter to the trans need to be replaced 
first.  That will likely cure the park switch issue.  Glenn did not 
say that the shifter was sloppy, but often you don't notice until the 
bushings are replaced, then the difference is obvious.  That was 
exactly what happened on our 81 240D several years ago.  I had 
forgotten about that until you reminded me!




But it jiggling the shifter can change the behavior, could this not be a
shifter bushing problem?

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2010 9:17 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] no cranking sometimes in P ('84 300D)


 Location of this switch?  I've been told that one can adjust/clean
 this switch to possibly correct this problem.  TIA.


Neutral safety switch is on the side of the transmission.
Big messy PITA to get at, of course.  Can be disassembled and cleaned,
I've done it.  (Drill out rivets, replace with suitable screws.)  Way
easier to just get another one.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] (Reply only to this email : transfer....@btinternet.com )

[Rich Thomas]

 Kaleb Striplin
Okie Acres
Okieland
609-123-4567
Benz junk dealer
old enough
infrequently (one word or two?)
1/1/69
12345

Please send check immediately in

£ or $ or pesos


Tank you berry mooch.

--K

On 10/14/2010 12:49 AM, Ehri, Linnea wrote:


You have a transfer of £1,000,000.00 US Dollars. from Western Union® for more 
information Contact Us with, Your name, Contact address, Country, Phone number, 
Occupation, Age, Sex, Date of birth, Postal code. Contact This Office Email: 
transfer@btinternet.com

Yours Sincerely,
Frank Ban

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Re: [MBZ] no cranking sometimes in P ('84 300D)

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

But it jiggling the shifter can change the behavior, could this not be a
shifter bushing problem?

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2010 9:17 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] no cranking sometimes in P ('84 300D)

> Location of this switch?  I've been told that one can adjust/clean 
> this switch to possibly correct this problem.  TIA.

Neutral safety switch is on the side of the transmission.
Big messy PITA to get at, of course.  Can be disassembled and cleaned,
I've done it.  (Drill out rivets, replace with suitable screws.)  Way
easier to just get another one.

-- Jim



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