[MBZ] Lookie What I Found

2010-11-11 Thread Bob Rentfro
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/rvs/2055002408.html

Cool

Bob R
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Re: [MBZ] Lookie What I Found

2010-11-11 Thread OK Don
Do you have an appointment to see/buy it yet?

On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 7:08 PM, Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com wrote:

 http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/rvs/2055002408.html

 Cool

 Bob R--

OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Lookie What I Found

2010-11-11 Thread Bob Rentfro
it just showed up a minute ago on CL.

Looks a little redone from the pictures. I could see my self pulling into
the HB with that rig...

Seems a little steep pricewise, but not much to compare it against.


Bob R

On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 6:13 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 Do you have an appointment to see/buy it yet?

 On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 7:08 PM, Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com wrote:

  http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/rvs/2055002408.html
 
  Cool
 
  Bob R--
 
 OK Don
 2001 ML320
 1992 300D 2.5T
 1990 300D 2.5T
 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] CL poster of the day

2010-11-11 Thread Rich Thomas

Wow, a furrin car!  That is really just so special..

--R

On 11/11/10 7:03 PM, Tim C wrote:

Okay, I'm a few days behind, but thought you all would appreciate:

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/2048808584.html

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Re: [MBZ] CL poster of the day

2010-11-11 Thread WILTON
Those likely ridiculous custom wheels, too; that'll make it REALLY special. 
What is it that makes so many people go crazy as hell over such a basic and 
simple mechanical device - a wheel is a wheel is a wheel.;


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] CL poster of the day



Wow, a furrin car!  That is really just so special..

--R

On 11/11/10 7:03 PM, Tim C wrote:

Okay, I'm a few days behind, but thought you all would appreciate:

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/2048808584.html

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Re: [MBZ] CL poster of the day

2010-11-11 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 5:53 PM, Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
 Wow, a furrin car!  That is really just so special..

 --R

 On 11/11/10 7:03 PM, Tim C wrote:
 http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/2048808584.html


The annoying thing is that if it is a '72, it really IS special, and
I'd like to know more about it.  Don't '72 R107s have Euro bumpers and
the high-po no-emissions engine like '71s?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] CL poster of the day

2010-11-11 Thread Rich Thomas
Still, you gotta admit that is pretty cool.  the wheels are just for 
show, kinda outrageous like the car.


--R

On 11/11/10 9:18 PM, WILTON wrote:
Those likely ridiculous custom wheels, too; that'll make it REALLY 
special. What is it that makes so many people go crazy as hell over 
such a basic and simple mechanical device - a wheel is a wheel is a 
wheel.;


Wilton

- Original Message - From: Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] CL poster of the day



Wow, a furrin car!  That is really just so special..

--R

On 11/11/10 7:03 PM, Tim C wrote:

Okay, I'm a few days behind, but thought you all would appreciate:

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/2048808584.html

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Re: [MBZ] CL poster of the day

2010-11-11 Thread Peter Frederick
Yes, they do.  There is one sitting at the end of the street where our  
lab is, I refuse to look at it for fear it will be cheap enough to buy  
and I DO NOT need any more expensive projects!


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] CL poster of the day

2010-11-11 Thread WILTON
I said, likely ridiculous, 'cause I haven't seen a photo, yet - 'can't get 
one to come up; it seems that too often when sellers are so proud of their 
special wheels, though, they are ridiculously big, flashy, not appropriate 
for the car, etc.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 9:40 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] CL poster of the day


Still, you gotta admit that is pretty cool.  the wheels are just for show, 
kinda outrageous like the car.


--R

On 11/11/10 9:18 PM, WILTON wrote:
Those likely ridiculous custom wheels, too; that'll make it REALLY 
special. What is it that makes so many people go crazy as hell over such 
a basic and simple mechanical device - a wheel is a wheel is a wheel. 
;


Wilton

- Original Message - From: Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] CL poster of the day



Wow, a furrin car!  That is really just so special..

--R

On 11/11/10 7:03 PM, Tim C wrote:

Okay, I'm a few days behind, but thought you all would appreciate:

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/2048808584.html

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[MBZ] Young Walt needs this

2010-11-11 Thread Mitch Haley

Shove this in your D50:
http://lansing.craigslist.org/pts/2034928104.html

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Re: [MBZ] OT capacitors on video card

2010-11-11 Thread Rich Thomas
Well a video board is not particularly inexpensive, makes me wonder why 
they skweez out a few cents on the manufacture.


-R

On 11/10/10 11:01 PM, Mountain Man wrote:

--R wrote:
   

I'm
gonna try to order some and see if I can fix it just for the hell of it.
  Apparently this is a common problem, they used cheap chinee crap for
components to save 42cents on the manufacture.
 

Cool that you are gonna do the fix yerself.
Amerikuns are idiots about price.  Price is God, hence the ability to
sell us cheep chinee junque at a price $0.42 less than some decent
made stuff.
We are dupes for marketing and sales.
We really should be smarter, but that won't happen before the world ends.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Swapping a 5spd into my 87 300D

2010-11-11 Thread Craig
On Wed, 10 Nov 2010 23:03:54 -0500 WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 I thought my 80 240D manny tranny shifted mighty fine.
 
 Wilton

As does our '82 240D/3.0.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Cruise control 1989 300se problem

2010-11-11 Thread Allan Streib
It is a myth that resetting the trip meter while in motion will damage anything.

Regardless, the odometer has nothing to do with the cruise control.

Allan
--
1983 300D


On Thu, 11 Nov 2010 01:06 -0600, David White kathma...@cableone.net wrote:
 A question, could a stripped trip odometer cause the cruise control to
 intermittently fail?
 Stripped as in pushing in the reset while moving and now the odometer
 doesn't work and the cruise control works, some times for 10 minutes then
 kicks out or 10 seconds and kicks out, hitting resume usually puts it
 back.
 My guess is the control module but I dunno.
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Re: [MBZ] Cruise control 1989 300se problem

2010-11-11 Thread Craig
On Thu, 11 Nov 2010 01:06:25 -0600 David White kathma...@cableone.net
wrote:

 A question, could a stripped trip odometer cause the cruise control to
 intermittently fail?
 Stripped as in pushing in the reset while moving and now the odometer
 doesn't work and the cruise control works, some times for 10 minutes
 then kicks out or 10 seconds and kicks out, hitting resume usually puts
 it back. My guess is the control module but I dunno.

On a W123, the cruise control pickup is on the input of the speedometer,
directly driven by the speedometer cable. I don't know about the '89
300SE. Do you have a mechanical or an electronic speedometer?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Swapping a 5spd into my 87 300D

2010-11-11 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Well, maybe if there is a Rusty-Q this fall or next spring, we can see your car 
there?
 
Rusty, any hope for a Rusty-Q soon?  (I hope I didn't already miss that...)
 
-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Rolf
Sent: Wed 11/10/2010 9:58 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Swapping a 5spd into my 87 300D



There are a couple of threads out there that cover this swap pretty
well, I don't know that I can add much to it. Other than be prepared to
have lots of energy and redo everything atleast 2x. :D AND USE LOCTITE
ON EVERYTHING. As of now I have only driven it around the block a few
times. Charleston is a hoof but might make for a nice spring break...

-Rolf

On 11/10/2010 7:53 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
wrote:
 No need to go that far, driver her over to Charleston so Rich and I can
 enjoy your handiwork, and time your trip to hit I-95 mid-morning on a
 weekday.  There's more than a few long straight flat stretches...

 I sure hope you can share a full write-up - someday I'd love to do the
 same.

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
 [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rolf
 Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 2010 10:37 AM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Swapping a 5spd into my 87 300D

 Pretty much. And rebuild the rear end. And a new head heheheh.

 Can't wait to take it out to Road Atlanta and see what the top speed
 is...

 -Rolf

 On 11/09/2010 09:07 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:
 Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:
 Rolf,

 How did it go?  Is this swap into a diesel engine car?
 Subject line says 87 300D.

 Now he just needs an intercooler, a variable turbo, and more fuel.

 Mitch.

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[MBZ] Hey Rusty (and list) W123 240D Idle Control Cable

2010-11-11 Thread Ed Booher
 Idle Cable Stop
end Piece For Idle Control Cable. Does Not Include Screw. OES GENUINE
W0133-1633871http://www.buymbparts.biz/item.wws?clientid=buymbparts.bizSku=W0133-1633871mfr=OES%20GENUINEsup=AAAcookieID=32P0ERRZR32P0F2302
$31.94$15.97$15.97
Rusty and list,

This part is listed on your website, the Idle Cable Stop. It's a bullet
shaped item that requires a set screw. Is *this* the part that goes into the
stop lever to allow the cable to control the idle on a W123 240D? I was
positive what I was looking for was a rubber grommet of some kind. If this
is what I need, do you also have the set screw available for order? And can
anyone provide a diagram or picture of how this works?

EdB

-- 
I've come to your planet on a Class IV Intergalactic Doom Freighter. -
Adrian Monk
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Re: [MBZ] Cruise control 1989 300se problem

2010-11-11 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Sounds to me like you need to implement the Jim Cathey plan: Test to isolate 
component at fault (my bet is on the CC circuit board), and then fix or replace.
 
I'll bet that if you re-solder all the circuit board connections, your troubles 
will be vanquished.
 

   http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mamerepairs.html
 
-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of David White
Sent: Thu 11/11/2010 2:06 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Cruise control 1989 300se problem



A question, could a stripped trip odometer cause the cruise control to
intermittently fail?
Stripped as in pushing in the reset while moving and now the odometer
doesn't work and the cruise control works, some times for 10 minutes then
kicks out or 10 seconds and kicks out, hitting resume usually puts it back.
My guess is the control module but I dunno.
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Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide

2010-11-11 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
David,
 
Here's a link from Philip to the soldering iron and 'stuff' that I bought, 
works great!
 
-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Fmiser
Sent: Wed 3/24/2010 10:42 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide



 Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:

 Thanks for your write-up and advice.  What is the best way to
 strip off the varnish?  I didn't notice any corrosion, but
 will keep your wire brush tip in mind.  I have an ancient
 home-made soldering iron, the tip is a little gross for this
 work, so I need to procure a better iron - can you recommend a
 model?

The best non-expensive unit I know is from MCM Electronics part
number 21-8125
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-8125$6.19

They also carry my favorite solder.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-2280   1 lb $20.99

While your at it, you can get a decent little stand with a
tip-cleaning sponge.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-8165   $5.09

 One site I read cautioned that overheating components like the
 integrated circuits was a potential pitfall to a DIY
 approach.  I did a lot of soldering in college, so I'm pretty
 confident I know how much heat is enough to get a good joint.
 Do you think any of the components on this board are
 especially sensitive to heat?

No, they are pretty big, heavy components.  Sure, they can still
be cooked, but watch the solder flow and don't heat longer than
necessary and you will probably be just fine.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Cruise control 1989 300se problem

2010-11-11 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 6:33 AM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:
 It is a myth that resetting the trip meter while in motion will damage 
 anything.


I beg to differ.  It's a fine distinction but one that doesn't matter
in practice.  If your tripmeter gears are already loose, resetting it
in motion will make the failure obvious by inducing particular
symptoms---the Chinese-water-torture clicking the mechanism makes as
it tries to turn forward every 1/nth of a tenth of a mile but can't.
I'd call that damage!

Have had it happen on two W124s now.  The first one I sold (for other
reasons!), and got an angry call from the buyer about an hour after he
drove off in the car.

Buyer: How do I stop this @#%*# clicking?

Me: Did you just stop to fill up the car?

Him: Yes.

Me: And then you reset the tripmeter?

Him: Of course.

Me: While the car was moving?

Him: Well, I was just pulling out of the gas station.  Barely moving.

Me: I told you not to do that.

There weren't any more phone calls after I told him the trick to make
it stop, so I guess he learned his lesson.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Hey Rusty (and list) W123 240D Idle Control Cable

2010-11-11 Thread Jim Cathey

This part is listed on your website, the Idle Cable Stop. It's a bullet
shaped item that requires a set screw. Is *this* the part that goes 
into the

stop lever to allow the cable to control the idle on a W123 240D?


This is the part that clamps on the cable.  It mates with a spring
clip thingy that snaps into the throttle mechanism.  I had a heck
of a time getting this put back together on the Albatross.  I
eventually got the spring clip from a boneyard.  Information was
hard to come by.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Cruise control 1989 300se problem

2010-11-11 Thread Jim Cathey

could a stripped trip odometer cause the cruise control to
intermittently fail?


No, not really.  Spastic operation is almost always the
solder joints failing in the amplifier.  My wife's 560SL
has just started acting up that way.  One of our last ones
to _not_ have this problem.  I've also had one that didn't
want to work, but that did work normally when it was working.
That turned out to be a damaged stalk switch, its 'off' switch
was overly sensitive.  These faults in a 10:1 ratio or so.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Hey Rusty (and list) W123 240D Idle Control Cable

2010-11-11 Thread Rusty Cullens
That is for the idle adjustment cable, The bushing on the stop bracket is 
available only if you buy the entire bracket. The bracket is VIN sensitive, 
so I would need complete VIN to quote it. The screw for the bullet shaped 
piece is no longer available.



Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - 
From: Ed Booher edboo...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 10:04 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Hey Rusty (and list) W123 240D Idle Control Cable



Idle Cable Stop
end Piece For Idle Control Cable. Does Not Include Screw. OES GENUINE
W0133-1633871http://www.buymbparts.biz/item.wws?clientid=buymbparts.bizSku=W0133-1633871mfr=OES%20GENUINEsup=AAAcookieID=32P0ERRZR32P0F2302
$31.94$15.97$15.97
Rusty and list,

This part is listed on your website, the Idle Cable Stop. It's a bullet
shaped item that requires a set screw. Is *this* the part that goes into 
the

stop lever to allow the cable to control the idle on a W123 240D? I was
positive what I was looking for was a rubber grommet of some kind. If this
is what I need, do you also have the set screw available for order? And 
can

anyone provide a diagram or picture of how this works?

EdB

--
I've come to your planet on a Class IV Intergalactic Doom Freighter. -
Adrian Monk
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[MBZ] Hydraulic clutch problem diagnoses

2010-11-11 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
SWMBO's '96 Infiniti has manual transmission, hydraulic clutch.  About 200k 
miles on the car, and I've replaced both the clutch slave cylinder and the 
clutch master cylinder once already.  Slave was probably done about 4 or 5 
years ago, and the master was done about 2 years ago.
 
Now that the weather has gotten cool (40 degrees at night), the clutch is 
misbehaving.  The pedal will go almost to the floor before engaging, and often 
will stick in the down position and stop engaging the clutch (so the engine and 
transmission are stuck in whichever gear you started in, usually either reverse 
or first gear).  After the car warms up, behavior becomes normal.  
 
When it happened to me, I found that if I pumped the clutch pedal five or ten 
times but only using about 1/2 of the stroke (i.e. ending the down-stroke just 
before normal engagement point), then it would work normally once or twice, but 
then revert to 'no clutch', especially if I tried to hold the clutch pedal down 
for more than a second or two.
 
I think that the master cylinder is probably bad (again), which is 
disappointing because it's probably only got about 20k miles on it and I bought 
it from a dealer, AND it is a real pain in the butt to RR.
 
Slave cylinder is older, and the replacement is NOT and OE part from the 
dealer, but whatever I could find at FLAPS as the original failed with no 
warning.
 
I'll check the MC to see if there's any sign of leakage using the taste test.
 
Could this be caused by using DOT 4 fluid, when the owner's manual says to use 
DOT 3?  I guess flushing/bleeding the system with the proper fluid might be a 
good first step.
 
-Max

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Re: [MBZ] Hey Rusty (and list) W123 240D Idle Control Cable

2010-11-11 Thread Rusty Cullens

The screw is available, new part number, $1.00


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - 
From: Rusty Cullens buymbpa...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hey Rusty (and list) W123 240D Idle Control Cable


That is for the idle adjustment cable, The bushing on the stop bracket is 
available only if you buy the entire bracket. The bracket is VIN 
sensitive, so I would need complete VIN to quote it. The screw for the 
bullet shaped piece is no longer available.



Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - 
From: Ed Booher edboo...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 10:04 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Hey Rusty (and list) W123 240D Idle Control Cable



Idle Cable Stop
end Piece For Idle Control Cable. Does Not Include Screw. OES GENUINE
W0133-1633871http://www.buymbparts.biz/item.wws?clientid=buymbparts.bizSku=W0133-1633871mfr=OES%20GENUINEsup=AAAcookieID=32P0ERRZR32P0F2302
$31.94$15.97$15.97
Rusty and list,

This part is listed on your website, the Idle Cable Stop. It's a bullet
shaped item that requires a set screw. Is *this* the part that goes into 
the

stop lever to allow the cable to control the idle on a W123 240D? I was
positive what I was looking for was a rubber grommet of some kind. If 
this
is what I need, do you also have the set screw available for order? And 
can

anyone provide a diagram or picture of how this works?

EdB

--
I've come to your planet on a Class IV Intergalactic Doom Freighter. -
Adrian Monk
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Re: [MBZ] Hydraulic clutch problem diagnoses

2010-11-11 Thread Jim Cathey

I think that the master cylinder is probably bad (again),


So do I.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Hydraulic clutch problem diagnoses

2010-11-11 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 7:47 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV
SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote:
 I'll check the MC to see if there's any sign of leakage using the taste test.


Yuk!  How about the feel test?  Not many things are as slimy as brake fluid.

I have visions of you upside-down with your head under the dash trying
to lick the clutch pedal.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Hydraulic clutch problem diagnoses

2010-11-11 Thread Dieselhead

Sounds like a leaky master to me.  A leaky slave often works ok.

DOT 4 in a DOT 3 system will have ONLY beneficial effects.  IF the 
master proves to be bad, I's swith the system to DOT5 Silicone brake 
fluid.  Highest BP and less hygroscopic.



SWMBO's '96 Infiniti has manual transmission, hydraulic clutch. 
About 200k miles on the car, and I've replaced both the clutch slave 
cylinder and the clutch master cylinder once already.  Slave was 
probably done about 4 or 5 years ago, and the master was done about 
2 years ago.


Now that the weather has gotten cool (40 degrees at night), the 
clutch is misbehaving.  The pedal will go almost to the floor before 
engaging, and often will stick in the down position and stop 
engaging the clutch (so the engine and transmission are stuck in 
whichever gear you started in, usually either reverse or first 
gear).  After the car warms up, behavior becomes normal. 

When it happened to me, I found that if I pumped the clutch pedal 
five or ten times but only using about 1/2 of the stroke (i.e. 
ending the down-stroke just before normal engagement point), then it 
would work normally once or twice, but then revert to 'no clutch', 
especially if I tried to hold the clutch pedal down for more than a 
second or two.


I think that the master cylinder is probably bad (again), which is 
disappointing because it's probably only got about 20k miles on it 
and I bought it from a dealer, AND it is a real pain in the butt to 
RR.


Slave cylinder is older, and the replacement is NOT and OE part from 
the dealer, but whatever I could find at FLAPS as the original 
failed with no warning.


I'll check the MC to see if there's any sign of leakage using the taste test.

Could this be caused by using DOT 4 fluid, when the owner's manual 
says to use DOT 3?  I guess flushing/bleeding the system with the 
proper fluid might be a good first step.


-Max

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Re: [MBZ] Hydraulic clutch problem diagnoses

2010-11-11 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
LOL!  Actually I just touch whatever looks wet, and then touch that finger to 
my tongue; the taste of brake fluid is unmistakable - very bitter.
 
-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Alex Chamberlain
Sent: Thu 11/11/2010 11:08 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hydraulic clutch problem diagnoses



On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 7:47 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV
SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote:
 I'll check the MC to see if there's any sign of leakage using the taste test.


Yuk!  How about the feel test?  Not many things are as slimy as brake fluid.

I have visions of you upside-down with your head under the dash trying
to lick the clutch pedal.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Hydraulic clutch problem diagnoses

2010-11-11 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Thanks Jim.  If no sign of leakage, I'm probably going to try a flush/bleed to 
make sure that wrong fluid is not the problem.  Last trip to pick-n-pull I 
scored a clutch MC reservoir cap for $2, which I plan to use with my 
pressurized brake bleeder to REALLY bleed the clutch circuit well.  I'll need 
to drill a hole in the center of the cap to attach the pressure line.  This car 
has a clutch line routing that seems designed to trap air, very difficult to 
bleed out all the air which is absolutely required for nice clutch action in 
this car.
 
-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Jim Cathey
Sent: Thu 11/11/2010 11:08 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hydraulic clutch problem diagnoses



 I think that the master cylinder is probably bad (again),

So do I.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Hydraulic clutch problem diagnoses

2010-11-11 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
I think that DOT 4 is backward compatible to DOT 3, but isn't DOT 5 a 
completely different animal, and not backward compatible?
 
-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Thu 11/11/2010 10:14 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hydraulic clutch problem diagnoses



Sounds like a leaky master to me.  A leaky slave often works ok.

DOT 4 in a DOT 3 system will have ONLY beneficial effects.  IF the
master proves to be bad, I's swith the system to DOT5 Silicone brake
fluid.  Highest BP and less hygroscopic.


SWMBO's '96 Infiniti has manual transmission, hydraulic clutch.
About 200k miles on the car, and I've replaced both the clutch slave
cylinder and the clutch master cylinder once already.  Slave was
probably done about 4 or 5 years ago, and the master was done about
2 years ago.

Now that the weather has gotten cool (40 degrees at night), the
clutch is misbehaving.  The pedal will go almost to the floor before
engaging, and often will stick in the down position and stop
engaging the clutch (so the engine and transmission are stuck in
whichever gear you started in, usually either reverse or first
gear).  After the car warms up, behavior becomes normal.

When it happened to me, I found that if I pumped the clutch pedal
five or ten times but only using about 1/2 of the stroke (i.e.
ending the down-stroke just before normal engagement point), then it
would work normally once or twice, but then revert to 'no clutch',
especially if I tried to hold the clutch pedal down for more than a
second or two.

I think that the master cylinder is probably bad (again), which is
disappointing because it's probably only got about 20k miles on it
and I bought it from a dealer, AND it is a real pain in the butt to
RR.

Slave cylinder is older, and the replacement is NOT and OE part from
the dealer, but whatever I could find at FLAPS as the original
failed with no warning.

I'll check the MC to see if there's any sign of leakage using the taste test.

Could this be caused by using DOT 4 fluid, when the owner's manual
says to use DOT 3?  I guess flushing/bleeding the system with the
proper fluid might be a good first step.

-Max

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Re: [MBZ] Hydraulic clutch problem diagnoses

2010-11-11 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Also, I'm thinking that the MC and slave seals are expecting a certain type of 
fluid which has a specified viscosity, and I'm not sure that a lack of 
hygroscopic characteristics is a good thing (water will settle out to the 
lowest point and corrode the internals, no?)  Isn't DOT 5 meant for racing 
applications, where the fluid is expected to be changed frequently and so any 
water present will be flushed out before it has a chance to cause corrosion 
problems?
 
Nevertheless, thanks for your thoughts on the faulty component.
 
-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Thu 11/11/2010 10:14 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hydraulic clutch problem diagnoses



Sounds like a leaky master to me.  A leaky slave often works ok.

DOT 4 in a DOT 3 system will have ONLY beneficial effects.  IF the
master proves to be bad, I's swith the system to DOT5 Silicone brake
fluid.  Highest BP and less hygroscopic.


SWMBO's '96 Infiniti has manual transmission, hydraulic clutch.
About 200k miles on the car, and I've replaced both the clutch slave
cylinder and the clutch master cylinder once already.  Slave was
probably done about 4 or 5 years ago, and the master was done about
2 years ago.

Now that the weather has gotten cool (40 degrees at night), the
clutch is misbehaving.  The pedal will go almost to the floor before
engaging, and often will stick in the down position and stop
engaging the clutch (so the engine and transmission are stuck in
whichever gear you started in, usually either reverse or first
gear).  After the car warms up, behavior becomes normal.

When it happened to me, I found that if I pumped the clutch pedal
five or ten times but only using about 1/2 of the stroke (i.e.
ending the down-stroke just before normal engagement point), then it
would work normally once or twice, but then revert to 'no clutch',
especially if I tried to hold the clutch pedal down for more than a
second or two.

I think that the master cylinder is probably bad (again), which is
disappointing because it's probably only got about 20k miles on it
and I bought it from a dealer, AND it is a real pain in the butt to
RR.

Slave cylinder is older, and the replacement is NOT and OE part from
the dealer, but whatever I could find at FLAPS as the original
failed with no warning.

I'll check the MC to see if there's any sign of leakage using the taste test.

Could this be caused by using DOT 4 fluid, when the owner's manual
says to use DOT 3?  I guess flushing/bleeding the system with the
proper fluid might be a good first step.

-Max

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Re: [MBZ] Hydraulic clutch problem diagnoses

2010-11-11 Thread Dieselhead

Correct, but...

A system that had DOT3/4 in it seals the rubber well enough that DOT5 
works well.  I believe normal brake parts for the past 10+ - years 
are DOT5 compatible.


I have converted an SDL and my 240D with new master cyls with no 
problems.  240D has been maybe 10-12 years now.  The only trick is to 
completely flush out all traces of the old fluid.



I think that DOT 4 is backward compatible to DOT 3, but isn't DOT 5 
a completely different animal, and not backward compatible?


-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Thu 11/11/2010 10:14 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hydraulic clutch problem diagnoses



Sounds like a leaky master to me.  A leaky slave often works ok.

DOT 4 in a DOT 3 system will have ONLY beneficial effects.  IF the
master proves to be bad, I's swith the system to DOT5 Silicone brake
fluid.  Highest BP and less hygroscopic.



SWMBO's '96 Infiniti has manual transmission, hydraulic clutch.
About 200k miles on the car, and I've replaced both the clutch slave
cylinder and the clutch master cylinder once already.  Slave was
probably done about 4 or 5 years ago, and the master was done about
2 years ago.

Now that the weather has gotten cool (40 degrees at night), the
clutch is misbehaving.  The pedal will go almost to the floor before
engaging, and often will stick in the down position and stop
engaging the clutch (so the engine and transmission are stuck in
whichever gear you started in, usually either reverse or first
gear).  After the car warms up, behavior becomes normal.

When it happened to me, I found that if I pumped the clutch pedal
five or ten times but only using about 1/2 of the stroke (i.e.
ending the down-stroke just before normal engagement point), then it
would work normally once or twice, but then revert to 'no clutch',
especially if I tried to hold the clutch pedal down for more than a
second or two.

I think that the master cylinder is probably bad (again), which is
disappointing because it's probably only got about 20k miles on it
and I bought it from a dealer, AND it is a real pain in the butt to
RR.

Slave cylinder is older, and the replacement is NOT and OE part from
the dealer, but whatever I could find at FLAPS as the original
failed with no warning.

I'll check the MC to see if there's any sign of leakage using the taste test.

Could this be caused by using DOT 4 fluid, when the owner's manual
says to use DOT 3?  I guess flushing/bleeding the system with the
proper fluid might be a good first step.

-Max

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Re: [MBZ] Swapping a 5spd into my 87 300D

2010-11-11 Thread Gerry Archer
My wife complained about the '83 240D shifting poorly.  The problem turned 
out to be the shifter mechanism which had a plastic spacer that was very 
worn.  I tried to buy a used mechanism or repair parts, both without 
success; so I redesigned the mechanism using two springs, a cross bar, and a 
(home made) brass spacer instead of a plastic spacer.  The springs take up 
the wear, keeping the gear selectors in the correct positions.  The car 
shifts smoothly now.

Gerry Archer
'83 240D and 300D
-
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
I've never been able to find a 123 or 124 manual trans when I had jingies 
to spend, but the older MBs with real transmissions shifted very nicely, 
and those are all getrags


I can't imagine that the 123/124 shifts that badly.

That's surprising, as the one in the '84 190D is very nice. Sounds more 
like

an old VW or Porsche shifter!

On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 7:03 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu 
wrote:



 Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com writes:

  The car magazines of the time weren't happy with the ergonomics of 
the
  stick-shift 300E either.  IIRC the shifter was described as numb 
and

  rubbery

 The description I've heard of the shifter is broomstick in a bucket of
 rocks

 Allan
 



OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Hydraulic clutch problem diagnoses

2010-11-11 Thread Dieselhead
You have it backwards.  The DOT5 prevents rusting.  Rust is what 
kills brake parts.  DOT3 rusts the most and has the lowest BP.  DOT 4 
rusts less and has a medium BP.  DOT 5 rusts the least and has the 
highest BP.  Failure to completely flush the system reverts to the 
lower BP of the residues in the system.


DOT3/4 will settle to the lower parts of the system, so it is good to 
bleed the system a week/month after you convert.



DOT 5 is used on race cars because the higher boiling point relates 
to less fade.  in ordinary applications, it is a higher margin of 
safety.  At MBCA national events, as a Tech inspector, we could not 
tell if a car had DOT 3 in it at the inspection, but we soon knew had 
it once they hit the track.  DOT3=brake fade.  DOT4 or 5 = safe 
braking.


I like the higher BP, but the real reason I use DOT5 is the lessened 
rust.  I tend to keep cars a long time.  I have had the 200D since 
1972.  I have had the 240D about 16 years.  I put a master on the 
240D once, and switched to DOT5 at the time.  No more brake parts 
since (other than pads)  Same with the SDL.  7 yrs and 150k+ mi in 
the SDL with no more brake components.


Also, I'm thinking that the MC and slave seals are expecting a 
certain type of fluid which has a specified viscosity, and I'm not 
sure that a lack of hygroscopic characteristics is a good thing 
(water will settle out to the lowest point and corrode the 
internals, no?)  Isn't DOT 5 meant for racing applications, where 
the fluid is expected to be changed frequently and so any water 
present will be flushed out before it has a chance to cause 
corrosion problems?


Nevertheless, thanks for your thoughts on the faulty component.

-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Thu 11/11/2010 10:14 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hydraulic clutch problem diagnoses



Sounds like a leaky master to me.  A leaky slave often works ok.

DOT 4 in a DOT 3 system will have ONLY beneficial effects.  IF the
master proves to be bad, I's swith the system to DOT5 Silicone brake
fluid.  Highest BP and less hygroscopic.



SWMBO's '96 Infiniti has manual transmission, hydraulic clutch.
About 200k miles on the car, and I've replaced both the clutch slave
cylinder and the clutch master cylinder once already.  Slave was
probably done about 4 or 5 years ago, and the master was done about
2 years ago.

Now that the weather has gotten cool (40 degrees at night), the
clutch is misbehaving.  The pedal will go almost to the floor before
engaging, and often will stick in the down position and stop

 engaging the clutch (so the engine and transmission are stuck in
 whichever gear you started in, usually either reverse or first
 gear).  After the car warms up, behavior becomes normal.
 
 When it happened to me, I found that if I pumped the clutch pedal

five or ten times but only using about 1/2 of the stroke (i.e.
ending the down-stroke just before normal engagement point), then it
would work normally once or twice, but then revert to 'no clutch',
especially if I tried to hold the clutch pedal down for more than a
second or two.

I think that the master cylinder is probably bad (again), which is
disappointing because it's probably only got about 20k miles on it
and I bought it from a dealer, AND it is a real pain in the butt to
RR.

Slave cylinder is older, and the replacement is NOT and OE part from
the dealer, but whatever I could find at FLAPS as the original
failed with no warning.

I'll check the MC to see if there's any sign of leakage using the taste test.

Could this be caused by using DOT 4 fluid, when the owner's manual
says to use DOT 3?  I guess flushing/bleeding the system with the
proper fluid might be a good first step.

-Max

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Re: [MBZ] Swapping a 5spd into my 87 300D

2010-11-11 Thread Dieselhead

Rusty has the plastic bushings.  they generally last 15-20 years.


My wife complained about the '83 240D shifting poorly.  The problem 
turned out to be the shifter mechanism which had a plastic spacer 
that was very worn.  I tried to buy a used mechanism or repair 
parts, both without success; so I redesigned the mechanism using two 
springs, a cross bar, and a (home made) brass spacer instead of a 
plastic spacer.  The springs take up the wear, keeping the gear 
selectors in the correct positions.  The car shifts smoothly now.

Gerry Archer
'83 240D and 300D
-
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
I've never been able to find a 123 or 124 manual trans when I had 
jingies to spend, but the older MBs with real transmissions shifted 
very nicely, and those are all getrags


I can't imagine that the 123/124 shifts that badly.


That's surprising, as the one in the '84 190D is very nice. Sounds more like
an old VW or Porsche shifter!

On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 7:03 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:


 Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com writes:

  The car magazines of the time weren't happy with the ergonomics of the
  stick-shift 300E either.  IIRC the shifter was described as numb and
  rubbery

 The description I've heard of the shifter is broomstick in a bucket of
 rocks

 Allan
 



OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Swapping a 5spd into my 87 300D

2010-11-11 Thread Gerry Archer
Someone at Rustys told me they didn't.  Anyway, 20 years isn't long enough 
for this list.  20 years from now I don't want to have to take it apart and 
put in a new bushing.

GerryAge 81

From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com

Rusty has the plastic bushings.  they generally last 15-20 years.


My wife complained about the '83 240D shifting poorly.  The problem turned 
out to be the shifter mechanism which had a plastic spacer that was very 
worn.  I tried to buy a used mechanism or repair parts, both without 
success; so I redesigned the mechanism using two springs, a cross bar, and 
a (home made) brass spacer instead of a plastic spacer.  The springs take 
up the wear, keeping the gear selectors in the correct positions.  The car 
shifts smoothly now.

Gerry Archer
'83 240D and 300D
-
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
I've never been able to find a 123 or 124 manual trans when I had jingies 
to spend, but the older MBs with real transmissions shifted very nicely, 
and those are all getrags


I can't imagine that the 123/124 shifts that badly.

That's surprising, as the one in the '84 190D is very nice. Sounds more 
like

an old VW or Porsche shifter!

On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 7:03 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu 
wrote:



 Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com writes:

  The car magazines of the time weren't happy with the ergonomics of 
the
  stick-shift 300E either.  IIRC the shifter was described as numb 
and

  rubbery

 The description I've heard of the shifter is broomstick in a bucket 
of

 rocks

 Allan
 



OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Hey Rusty (and list) W123 240D Idle Control Cable

2010-11-11 Thread Craig
On Thu, 11 Nov 2010 10:49:06 -0500 Rusty Cullens buymbpa...@gmail.com
wrote:

 The screw for the bullet shaped piece is no longer available.

But, if you go to your local hardware store and look through their metric
hardware bins, you probably can find something that will fit. That's what
I did for Shirley's Bernina sewing machine when we lost the needle clamp
screw (instead of paying $10 + shipping for a screw).


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Hey Rusty (and list) W123 240D Idle Control Cable

2010-11-11 Thread Craig
On Thu, 11 Nov 2010 10:04:21 -0500 Ed Booher edboo...@gmail.com wrote:

  Idle Cable Stop
 end Piece For Idle Control Cable. Does Not Include Screw. OES GENUINE
 W0133-1633871http://www.buymbparts.biz/item.wws?clientid=buymbparts.bizSku=W0133-1633871mfr=OES%20GENUINEsup=AAAcookieID=32P0ERRZR32P0F2302
 $31.94$15.97$15.97
 Rusty and list,
 
 This part is listed on your website, the Idle Cable Stop. It's a bullet
 shaped item that requires a set screw. Is *this* the part that goes
 into the stop lever to allow the cable to control the idle on a W123
 240D? I was positive what I was looking for was a rubber grommet of
 some kind. If this is what I need, do you also have the set screw
 available for order? And can anyone provide a diagram or picture of how
 this works?

I can take a picture of our 240D/3.0's idle stop setup if you'd like.


Craig

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[MBZ] An SL for Wilton

2010-11-11 Thread Dieselhead

Interesting.  I could probably go with everything except the dork wheels.

http://editorial.autos.msn.com/slideshow.aspx?cp-documentid=1167430icid=autos_1727GT1=22007#9

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Re: [MBZ] OT capacitors on video card

2010-11-11 Thread Rolf
How old is the board? There were some huge recalls like 5 or so years 
ago for a bad run of caps that got used in mobos and vid cards.


-Rolf

On 11/10/2010 10:27 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:
So my main computer was rebooting and giving me the BSOD (WinXP) and 
finally tonight I spent about 4 hours trying to sort it out.  Turns 
out it was bad capacitors on the video card, worked fine in Safe Mode 
but when trying to boot into full windows I kept getting the BSOD with 
a video driver message.  After more googling, some old post suggested 
the caps on the board might be blown, shonuff 4 of the 8 caps on the 
board are blown and puffed up.  I'm gonna try to order some and see if 
I can fix it just for the hell of it.  Apparently this is a common 
problem, they used cheap chinee crap for components to save 42cents on 
the manufacture.


--R

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Re: [MBZ] Swapping a 5spd into my 87 300D

2010-11-11 Thread Rolf
I find that hard to believe, 99% sure I ordered mine from him last time. 
On a side note, my new setup is using teflon/pvc bushings or the like


-Rolf

On 11/11/2010 02:07 PM, Gerry Archer wrote:
Someone at Rustys told me they didn't.  Anyway, 20 years isn't long 
enough for this list.  20 years from now I don't want to have to take 
it apart and put in a new bushing.

GerryAge 81

From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com

Rusty has the plastic bushings.  they generally last 15-20 years.


My wife complained about the '83 240D shifting poorly.  The problem 
turned out to be the shifter mechanism which had a plastic spacer 
that was very worn.  I tried to buy a used mechanism or repair 
parts, both without success; so I redesigned the mechanism using two 
springs, a cross bar, and a (home made) brass spacer instead of a 
plastic spacer.  The springs take up the wear, keeping the gear 
selectors in the correct positions.  The car shifts smoothly now.

Gerry Archer
'83 240D and 300D
-
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
I've never been able to find a 123 or 124 manual trans when I had 
jingies to spend, but the older MBs with real transmissions shifted 
very nicely, and those are all getrags


I can't imagine that the 123/124 shifts that badly.

That's surprising, as the one in the '84 190D is very nice. Sounds 
more like

an old VW or Porsche shifter!

On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 7:03 PM, Allan Streib 
str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:



 Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com writes:

 The car magazines of the time weren't happy with the ergonomics 
of the
 stick-shift 300E either.  IIRC the shifter was described as 
numb and

 rubbery

 The description I've heard of the shifter is broomstick in a 
bucket of

 rocks

 Allan
 



OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Swapping a 5spd into my 87 300D

2010-11-11 Thread Rolf
Yes, there is some wierd ness with the way the 5 speed shifts 
internally. Its hard to describe but it moves wierdly. I did a pretty 
good job of lining up all the shift arms in neutral but it could use 
more tweaking maybe.


-Rolf

On 11/10/2010 11:03 PM, WILTON wrote:

I thought my 80 240D manny tranny shifted mighty fine.

Wilton

- Original Message - From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 8:36 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Swapping a 5spd into my 87 300D


I've never been able to find a 123 or 124 manual trans when I had 
jingies to spend, but the older MBs with real transmissions shifted 
very nicely, and those are all getrags


I can't imagine that the 123/124 shifts that badly.

That's surprising, as the one in the '84 190D is very nice. Sounds 
more like

an old VW or Porsche shifter!

On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 7:03 PM, Allan Streib 
str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:



 Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com writes:

 The car magazines of the time weren't happy with the ergonomics 
of the
 stick-shift 300E either.  IIRC the shifter was described as 
numb and

 rubbery

 The description I've heard of the shifter is broomstick in a 
bucket of

 rocks

 Allan
 



OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] An SL for Wilton

2010-11-11 Thread WILTON

Yeah, not bad, 'cept the wheels.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 2:49 PM
Subject: [MBZ] An SL for Wilton



Interesting.  I could probably go with everything except the dork wheels.

http://editorial.autos.msn.com/slideshow.aspx?cp-documentid=1167430icid=autos_1727GT1=22007#9

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Re: [MBZ] An SL for Wilton

2010-11-11 Thread Mitch Haley

The ultimate sleeper?

http://editorial.autos.msn.com/slideshow.aspx?cp-documentid=1167545#8

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Re: [MBZ] Swapping a 5spd into my 87 300D

2010-11-11 Thread Gerry Archer

I've been buying from Rusty since this group was headquartered in Canada,
and I can assure you that Rustys people make mistakes.  It would be
unbelievable if they didn't considering the number of items they deal with.
Gerry
--

I find that hard to believe, 99% sure I ordered mine from him last time. On
a side note, my new setup is using teflon/pvc bushings or the like
-Rolf

On 11/11/2010 02:07 PM, Gerry Archer wrote:

Someone at Rustys told me they didn't.  Anyway, 20 years isn't long
enough for this list.  20 years from now I don't want to have to take it
apart and put in a new bushing.
GerryAge 81

From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com

Rusty has the plastic bushings.  they generally last 15-20 years.



My wife complained about the '83 240D shifting poorly.  The problem
turned out to be the shifter mechanism which had a plastic spacer
that was very worn.  I tried to buy a used mechanism or repair parts,
both without success; so I redesigned the mechanism using two springs,
a cross bar, and a (home made) brass spacer instead of a plastic
spacer.  The springs take up the wear, keeping the gear selectors in
the correct positions.  The car shifts smoothly now.
Gerry Archer
'83 240D and 300D
-
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com

I've never been able to find a 123 or 124 manual trans when I had
jingies to spend, but the older MBs with real transmissions shifted
very nicely, and those are all getrags

I can't imagine that the 123/124 shifts that badly.


That's surprising, as the one in the '84 190D is very nice. Sounds
more like
an old VW or Porsche shifter!

On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 7:03 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
wrote:


 Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com writes:

 The car magazines of the time weren't happy with the ergonomics
of the
 stick-shift 300E either.  IIRC the shifter was described as
numb and
 rubbery

 The description I've heard of the shifter is broomstick in a
bucket of
 rocks

 Allan
 



OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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[MBZ] OK Don ML

2010-11-11 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Tell me about your ML.  I was looking at a 01 ML320 with 107k 
miles.  They were wanting 9.8k for it.  Seems high to me but they 
were saying they had it priced at 11k and book was 12 or so.  I 
just wondered how yours was.  Does it have the NAV?  Did you pay 
anywhere near that for yours or is this one too much?  What kind 
of mileage are you getting?  Is your 4x4?  Are they all 4x4?


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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[MBZ] wife kills the OK Don 300D

2010-11-11 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I brought the OK don 300D out of hibernation for the winter for 
the wife to drive.  Dont drive it in the summer because no AC.  
She has been driving it about a week.  Last night on the highway 
she calls and says it wont go into gear and she is on the side of 
the road.  The way she was talking I thought maybe the linkage 
came loose.  Well then she said she got it in gear and started 
off.  It would be fine till she tried to get to highway speed.  My 
guess is the tranny was slipping so I told her she needed to check 
the fluid and get some it in.  AAA shows up in the mean time.  
They check it and no fluid showing on the stick.  Crap.  I have 
not seen any leaks, and to be honest I didnt even check it before 
she started driving it.  I drove it a bit myself and it showed no 
signs of low fluid.  She said it didnt do anything strange to her 
either.  It would seem to me if a car was low enough not to show 
that you would be noticing things.  Anyway, they fill it up and 
same thing.  So Im thinking she burned up one of the gears, either 
that or the filter is plugged up.  Im going to check it out soon 
and hopefully its not dead.  I dont need ANOTHER project.


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


___
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Re: [MBZ] Swapping a 5spd into my 87 300D

2010-11-11 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Should be an adjustment at the master cylinder side, but I don't know if it 
will make much difference in pedal height. Attached are the instructions for a 
123, I have no idea if they apply to a 124 but perhaps they'll point you in the 
right direction.
 
-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Rolf
Sent: Wed 11/10/2010 11:56 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Swapping a 5spd into my 87 300D



Honestly, it was a bit disappointing. I am used to my gwagen clutch on
the 123 now, big heavy lots of torque. I was also dickering around with
the clutch pedal (sits really high seems that there is no adjustment,
also engages really high, think I am going to shim out the slave
cylinder to compensate) and the shifter REALLY takes some getting used
to. Because the sweet spot was so high I was paying more attention to
clutch slippage than anything else...

To be fair my exhaust manifold has a leak the size of the grand canyon
in it and I was driving in 25mph zones. Also the ALDA has not been
touched yet and it def needs a smidgen of a turn. It was also 2am and
the third day in a row I worked on the car. I was very tired. The car
needs lots of other work as well. The rear end is all over the place.

The good news is that when it was spooled and tached up it seemed that I
had A LOT more power/torque than before. This weekend I am hoping to
spend more time on it and get a better reading overall.

-Rolf

On 11/10/2010 10:47 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:
 On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 6:58 AM, Rolfr...@winmutt.com  wrote:
   As
 of now I have only driven it around the block a few times. Charleston is a
 hoof but might make for a nice spring break...

 Yeah, what I want to know is how it drives!   Do the gear ratios seem
 appropriate to the power band?  How's the turbo lag without the torque
 converter to allow the engine to rev up a bit ahead of the wheels?

 Alex

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Re: [MBZ] OK Don ML

2010-11-11 Thread OK Don
They are all 4X4 - all the time. There is a switch for the crawling mode.
No, mine doesn't have the nav - it's a large collection of CDs, so I
wouldn't want to use it anyway.
Mine ( a '01 ML320) was $6,000 - it had 176,000 miles when I bought it. I
think the book price I saw was around $7,000, so I think they're asking too
much for it.
I got an average of 21.4 mpg over two trips to AR last month.
As I posted earlier - the PO spent over $7,200 on repairs at Indies over the
last three years - Radiator, water pump, power steering pump, alt., etc ---

On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 5:07 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 Tell me about your ML.  I was looking at a 01 ML320 with 107k miles.  They
 were wanting 9.8k for it.  Seems high to me but they were saying they had it
 priced at 11k and book was 12 or so.  I just wondered how yours was.  Does
 it have the NAV?  Did you pay anywhere near that for yours or is this one
 too much?  What kind of mileage are you getting?  Is your 4x4?  Are they all
 4x4?
 --


OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] OK Don ML

2010-11-11 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
yea, I dont think I am going to mess with it, that is way too 
much.  If I was going to spend that much I would rather have a 99 
E300 TD


On 11/11/2010 5:29 PM, OK Don wrote:

They are all 4X4 - all the time. There is a switch for the crawling mode.
No, mine doesn't have the nav - it's a large collection of CDs, so I
wouldn't want to use it anyway.
Mine ( a '01 ML320) was $6,000 - it had 176,000 miles when I bought it. I
think the book price I saw was around $7,000, so I think they're asking too
much for it.
I got an average of 21.4 mpg over two trips to AR last month.
As I posted earlier - the PO spent over $7,200 on repairs at Indies over the
last three years - Radiator, water pump, power steering pump, alt., etc ---

On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 5:07 PM, Kaleb C. Striplinka...@striplin.netwrote:


Tell me about your ML.  I was looking at a 01 ML320 with 107k miles.  They
were wanting 9.8k for it.  Seems high to me but they were saying they had it
priced at 11k and book was 12 or so.  I just wondered how yours was.  Does
it have the NAV?  Did you pay anywhere near that for yours or is this one
too much?  What kind of mileage are you getting?  Is your 4x4?  Are they all
4x4?
--


OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
___
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


___
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Re: [MBZ] wife kills the OK Don 300D

2010-11-11 Thread OK Don
I wonder if one of the cooler lines ruptured? I don't remember what all we
did to that car, other than the head ---

On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 5:11 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 I brought the OK don 300D out of hibernation for the winter for the wife to
 drive.  Dont drive it in the summer because no AC.  She has been driving it
 about a week.  Last night on the highway she calls and says it wont go into
 gear and she is on the side of the road.  The way she was talking I thought
 maybe the linkage came loose.  Well then she said she got it in gear and
 started off.  It would be fine till she tried to get to highway speed.  My
 guess is the tranny was slipping so I told her she needed to check the fluid
 and get some it in.  AAA shows up in the mean time.  They check it and no
 fluid showing on the stick.  Crap.  I have not seen any leaks, and to be
 honest I didnt even check it before she started driving it.  I drove it a
 bit myself and it showed no signs of low fluid.  She said it didnt do
 anything strange to her either.  It would seem to me if a car was low enough
 not to show that you would be noticing things.  Anyway, they fill it up and
 same thing.  So Im thinking she burned up one of the gears, either that or
 the filter is plugged up.  Im going to check it out soon and hopefully its
 not dead.  I dont need ANOTHER project.

 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK


OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] OK Don ML

2010-11-11 Thread OK Don
I was thinking that the ML's were the bargain Benz when I was looking. Your
seller doesn't see it that way! I took the gamble to find out why it's a
bargain, since TANSTAAFL.

On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 5:31 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 yea, I dont think I am going to mess with it, that is way too much.  If I
 was going to spend that much I would rather have a 99 E300 TD
  --


OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
___
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Re: [MBZ] wife kills the OK Don 300D

2010-11-11 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I didnt see anything obviously wrong but it was dark when it 
arrived home on the wrecker.  If I do have to pull the tranny I am 
tempted to just swap out the entire engine/trans package instead 
of chasing down that missing #1 problem.


On 11/11/2010 5:33 PM, OK Don wrote:

I wonder if one of the cooler lines ruptured? I don't remember what all we
did to that car, other than the head ---

On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 5:11 PM, Kaleb C. Striplinka...@striplin.netwrote:


I brought the OK don 300D out of hibernation for the winter for the wife to
drive.  Dont drive it in the summer because no AC.  She has been driving it
about a week.  Last night on the highway she calls and says it wont go into
gear and she is on the side of the road.  The way she was talking I thought
maybe the linkage came loose.  Well then she said she got it in gear and
started off.  It would be fine till she tried to get to highway speed.  My
guess is the tranny was slipping so I told her she needed to check the fluid
and get some it in.  AAA shows up in the mean time.  They check it and no
fluid showing on the stick.  Crap.  I have not seen any leaks, and to be
honest I didnt even check it before she started driving it.  I drove it a
bit myself and it showed no signs of low fluid.  She said it didnt do
anything strange to her either.  It would seem to me if a car was low enough
not to show that you would be noticing things.  Anyway, they fill it up and
same thing.  So Im thinking she burned up one of the gears, either that or
the filter is plugged up.  Im going to check it out soon and hopefully its
not dead.  I dont need ANOTHER project.

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK


OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
___
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Version: 10.0.1144 / Virus Database: 424/3240 - Release Date: 11/05/10




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


___
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Re: [MBZ] OK Don ML

2010-11-11 Thread OK Don
Here's a '98 for $6,250
http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/2036049500.html
but this is the MB you really need --
http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/2042517278.html

On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 5:31 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 yea, I dont think I am going to mess with it, that is way too much.  If I
 was going to spend that much I would rather have a 99 E300 TD
  --


OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
___
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Re: [MBZ] wife kills the OK Don 300D

2010-11-11 Thread OK Don
Yup - that's what I'd do, if I had that package on hand ---

On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 5:35 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 I didnt see anything obviously wrong but it was dark when it arrived home
 on the wrecker.  If I do have to pull the tranny I am tempted to just swap
 out the entire engine/trans package instead of chasing down that missing #1
 problem.

 --


OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
___
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Re: [MBZ] OK Don ML

2010-11-11 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
It was traded in at a chevy dealer I have for one of my 
customers.  KBB says 10600 but you cant go by book on these things 
too much.


On 11/11/2010 5:35 PM, OK Don wrote:

I was thinking that the ML's were the bargain Benz when I was looking. Your
seller doesn't see it that way! I took the gamble to find out why it's a
bargain, since TANSTAAFL.

On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 5:31 PM, Kaleb C. Striplinka...@striplin.netwrote:


yea, I dont think I am going to mess with it, that is way too much.  If I
was going to spend that much I would rather have a 99 E300 TD
  --


OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
___
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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1144 / Virus Database: 424/3240 - Release Date: 11/05/10




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


___
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Re: [MBZ] wife kills the OK Don 300D

2010-11-11 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

Oh I do, its just a matter of pulling it.

On 11/11/2010 5:39 PM, OK Don wrote:

Yup - that's what I'd do, if I had that package on hand ---

On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 5:35 PM, Kaleb C. Striplinka...@striplin.netwrote:


I didnt see anything obviously wrong but it was dark when it arrived home
on the wrecker.  If I do have to pull the tranny I am tempted to just swap
out the entire engine/trans package instead of chasing down that missing #1
problem.

--


OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
___
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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1144 / Virus Database: 424/3240 - Release Date: 11/05/10




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


___
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Re: [MBZ] wife kills the OK Don 300D

2010-11-11 Thread Mitch Haley

OK Don wrote:

I wonder if one of the cooler lines ruptured? I don't remember what all we
did to that car, other than the head ---


My ex-Morrison '92 2.5 rust perforated one underneath the left side of the 
radiator. Big line, like 10mm ID is my best guess. Leaked just enought to draw a 
thin red line in the driveway, but if I drove it around like that...


Mitch.

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[MBZ] CL poster of the day

2010-11-11 Thread Tim C
Okay, I'm a few days behind, but thought you all would appreciate:

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/2048808584.html

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Re: [MBZ] Swapping a 5spd into my 87 300D

2010-11-11 Thread Rolf
Without even looking I can answer it, no! There is no eccentric bolt 
like the W123. It makes no sense, I am seriously considering adapting 
one. Even if I can change the sweet spot by spacing the slave out I 
still have a silly high pedal

-Rolf

On 11/11/2010 9:36 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 
wrote:

Should be an adjustment at the master cylinder side, but I don't know if it 
will make much difference in pedal height. Attached are the instructions for a 
123, I have no idea if they apply to a 124 but perhaps they'll point you in the 
right direction.

-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Rolf
Sent: Wed 11/10/2010 11:56 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Swapping a 5spd into my 87 300D



Honestly, it was a bit disappointing. I am used to my gwagen clutch on
the 123 now, big heavy lots of torque. I was also dickering around with
the clutch pedal (sits really high seems that there is no adjustment,
also engages really high, think I am going to shim out the slave
cylinder to compensate) and the shifter REALLY takes some getting used
to. Because the sweet spot was so high I was paying more attention to
clutch slippage than anything else...

To be fair my exhaust manifold has a leak the size of the grand canyon
in it and I was driving in 25mph zones. Also the ALDA has not been
touched yet and it def needs a smidgen of a turn. It was also 2am and
the third day in a row I worked on the car. I was very tired. The car
needs lots of other work as well. The rear end is all over the place.

The good news is that when it was spooled and tached up it seemed that I
had A LOT more power/torque than before. This weekend I am hoping to
spend more time on it and get a better reading overall.

-Rolf

On 11/10/2010 10:47 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 6:58 AM, Rolfr...@winmutt.com   wrote:

   As
of now I have only driven it around the block a few times. Charleston is a
hoof but might make for a nice spring break...


Yeah, what I want to know is how it drives!   Do the gear ratios seem
appropriate to the power band?  How's the turbo lag without the torque
converter to allow the engine to rev up a bit ahead of the wheels?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] wife kills the OK Don 300D

2010-11-11 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

do you still have that car?

On 11/11/2010 6:01 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

OK Don wrote:
I wonder if one of the cooler lines ruptured? I don't remember 
what all we

did to that car, other than the head ---


My ex-Morrison '92 2.5 rust perforated one underneath the left 
side of the radiator. Big line, like 10mm ID is my best guess. 
Leaked just enought to draw a thin red line in the driveway, but 
if I drove it around like that...


Mitch.

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Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Swapping a 5spd into my 87 300D

2010-11-11 Thread Rolf
If I sounded rude, I am sorry. I very much appreciate your input. I am 
just frustrated with the lack of any adjustment!


-Rolf

On 11/11/2010 7:31 PM, Rolf wrote:
Without even looking I can answer it, no! There is no eccentric bolt 
like the W123. It makes no sense, I am seriously considering adapting 
one. Even if I can change the sweet spot by spacing the slave out I 
still have a silly high pedal

-Rolf

On 11/11/2010 9:36 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 
53310 wrote:
Should be an adjustment at the master cylinder side, but I don't know 
if it will make much difference in pedal height. Attached are the 
instructions for a 123, I have no idea if they apply to a 124 but 
perhaps they'll point you in the right direction.


-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Rolf
Sent: Wed 11/10/2010 11:56 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Swapping a 5spd into my 87 300D



Honestly, it was a bit disappointing. I am used to my gwagen clutch on
the 123 now, big heavy lots of torque. I was also dickering around with
the clutch pedal (sits really high seems that there is no adjustment,
also engages really high, think I am going to shim out the slave
cylinder to compensate) and the shifter REALLY takes some getting used
to. Because the sweet spot was so high I was paying more attention to
clutch slippage than anything else...

To be fair my exhaust manifold has a leak the size of the grand canyon
in it and I was driving in 25mph zones. Also the ALDA has not been
touched yet and it def needs a smidgen of a turn. It was also 2am and
the third day in a row I worked on the car. I was very tired. The car
needs lots of other work as well. The rear end is all over the place.

The good news is that when it was spooled and tached up it seemed that I
had A LOT more power/torque than before. This weekend I am hoping to
spend more time on it and get a better reading overall.

-Rolf

On 11/10/2010 10:47 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 6:58 AM, Rolfr...@winmutt.com   wrote:

   As
of now I have only driven it around the block a few times. 
Charleston is a

hoof but might make for a nice spring break...


Yeah, what I want to know is how it drives!   Do the gear ratios seem
appropriate to the power band?  How's the turbo lag without the torque
converter to allow the engine to rev up a bit ahead of the wheels?

Alex

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