Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-13 Thread Dave in SoCal
On Jul 12, 2013, at 9:21 PM, M. Mitchell Marmel wrote:

 At 9:39 PM -0500 7/12/13, OK Don wrote:
 The receiver drier is by the port side of the radiator --
 
 Out in front.  Found it.  And those two wires coming out are for the fan?
 
 -MMM-

Looked into this awhile back for my W123s. Cleanest method I could figure was 
to put a switch inline from  pin 5 on the fan relay to ground.
The relay is ice cube shaped, the furthest of the two away from the firewall on 
top of the L front wheel well.
It's the shortest distance to the cabin and can look factory with a little 
effort.

Dave in SoCal
'82 240D (3 pedal), '84 300TD (Euro), '85 300TD (Cali) 


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[MBZ] Was someone looking for a deal on R-134a?

2013-07-07 Thread Dave in SoCal
12 oz. for $4 at Menards through 7/14. I don't use it but seems to be a decent 
price for small bottles.
Not available in Cali.

http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/automotive/maintenance-fluids-additives/r-134a-refrigerant/p-1778256-c-10098.htm

or avoiding line wrap issues:

http://bit.ly/181OJm7


HTH,
Dave
82 240D (3 pedal), 84 300TD (Euro), 85 300TD (CA)


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Re: [MBZ] OT: garage door openers

2012-04-02 Thread Dave in SoCal
I'm sure you'll make the best decision for the situation but one more data 
point for the archives - after living with a torsion spring opener for a 
decade, I'll never use anything else. Super quiet and extra storage space above 
the door - awesome.

Dave

 
On Apr 2, 2012, at 4:55 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

 I looked at that, but I'm already all set up for a traditional overhead
 unit (power outlet in place, etc.) so don't think I'll go that route.
 
 Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net writes:
 
 Don't know anything about that, but if you have a torsion spring door,
 this is great:
 http://www.amazon.com/LiftMaster-3800-Residential-Jackshaft-Garage/dp/B000MT7WV4/


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Re: [MBZ] S**T!!! -- Spring Compressor

2012-04-01 Thread Dave in SoCal
Clamped in vise per the instructions on job 33-440, I use an appropriately 
sized impact socket and a 5-lb. sledge. Regular hammer just doesn't do it. I'm 
in rust-free CA but it's usually quick once it's in the vise.

Dave

On Mar 31, 2012, at 8:59 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:

 I actually cut them across the top, and the end bits sorta fell out then.  I 
 put a big socket on one end of the inner rubber/metal bit, and pushed that 
 out with a vise.  I am still trying to get the lower BJ undone, tried the hot 
 wrench and some shims for the pickle fork, still no go.  Went at the BJ shaft 
 with the sawzall but that stuff is REALLY tough, barely made a dent in it.  
 Tomorrow another tactic will unfold I am sure.
 
 --R


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Re: [MBZ] S**T!!! -- Spring Compressor

2012-03-31 Thread Dave in SoCal
I may be misreading this and not understanding the interlock but are there no 
flat spots on the plates which enable it to be compressed like that in the 
linked Klann video? 
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3614495583838776006

Is lack of a bench vise the issue? Perhaps a neighbor can assist?

CL is a common source for a used vise - I got a beefy vintage Prentiss for $20.
It's saved me much grief over the years - especially when remounting MB springs.

Dave
SoCal

On Mar 31, 2012, at 8:55 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:

 I am rebuilding the front end of mama's 300SD.  Bought this spring compressor 
 that Max found, eng.jtc.com.tw/products/index.php?mode=dataid=355top=0  it 
 seems like a good stout unit, not a lot different from the one I rented from 
 Rusty last time I did the job on the 123.
 
 Rotated the plates around to get a good grip at top and bottom of spring 
 (first attempt I needed to get more coils in the tool), got the spring out no 
 problem other than fiddling a bit to get the teeth set in the plate pockets.  
 Went to uncompress the spring, got the compressor all the way extended and 
 there was still compression on the spring so I can't get it out, maybe only a 
 half inch or so.  I try to turn it back to tighten it to put it back in the 
 car to compress it a bit and hold it compressed, to rotate the plates some to 
 get some slack (they are interlocked top and bottom now with the teeth on 
 both ends locked in the pockets on the plates, so the whole thing rotates), 
 and I run into this feature :
 
 Advantage :Newly developed automatic 3-point safety interlock and 
 ***automatic freewheel
   at end of stroke.***
 
 Which means the screw will not engage the bottom part now, and I cannot 
 recompress it to put it back in the car.  SH*T!!!
 
 So I am pondering how to get it compressed enough to rotate the plates around 
 a bit to get the thing out.  I am thinking to stick it under the car frame 
 and then drop the whole car down enough to compress it a bit (I think I only 
 need a 1/4 or 1/2 or so but I am also thinking that is dangerous as hell and 
 really do not want to mess up my day.  Or maybe use the floor jack (which has 
 a round pocket on the lift arm) to put it under the car and push it up a tad. 
  Or if I should go to oreilly's and borrow one of their cheapo compressors, 
 use that just enough to get some slack on the system.  There is probably not 
 a whole lot of compression on it at this point, maybe a coupla hundred pounds 
 if that, but still enough to make a problem if it decides to go for a walk.  
 Or maybe if they have a press we can push it enough to release a plate so I 
 can rotate it out and re-engage the screw.
 
 Ideas?  I was hoping to get this job done this weekend, mostly (gotta go to a 
 shop to get BJs pressed) but not if I am running all over creation to deal 
 with this stupid thing.
 
 —R



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Re: [MBZ] Brakes

2012-03-25 Thread Dave in SoCal
A backwards method I have used in the past is to log in to the EPC with the VIN 
you want to put parts on and run a 'part' search with the the part number you 
have. If applicable, a diagram will pop up, if not, a 'no part found' message 
appears. 

Did this for some 380SL rotors I had - my memory is faded but I believe the 
rears worked on a W123 but the fronts did not. Could be completely wrong, 
though — it was a good while back.

Dave


On Mar 24, 2012, at 9:10 PM, clay monroe wrote:

 I ordered a brake set for Gump from Rusty.  Gump died prior to my installing 
 the set.  What does the group opine as to transferability of said parts to a 
 R107?
 
 Set consists of all rotors, pads, hoses and some small stuff.  Right now I am 
 listing it on CL, but if I can use it, then I will put it back on the shelf
 
 
 clay 
 
 1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
 1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
 POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
 


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Re: [MBZ] OT - mixing colored concrete project

2012-03-24 Thread Dave in SoCal
Losing a pet is never easy.
17 years is a very full life but I know from experience that it never seems 
long enough.
My condolences to you.

White cement is available.
http://www.cement.org/decorative/about.asp

I would contact construction supply houses or suppliers to decorative concrete 
contractors.
There are a few good concrete forums these days. A long time ago I found good 
info at:
http://www.concretenetwork.com
but have not been there in years.

a quick search turned up:
http://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/decorative/white.html

Dave


On Mar 24, 2012, at 5:44 AM, Max Dillon wrote:
 
 ...I'd like for the concrete to be as white as possible, or at least not the
 typical concrete gray color but something more like a natural stone, so that
 the mosaic will stand out. 


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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread Dave in SoCal
I took the advice below to heart when I bought my '83 380SL. Not looking for 
controversy nor plan to defend Stu's reputation but I wouldn't underestimate 
the single row chain issue. 

Dave

 Stu Ritter wrote:
 Fri, 29 Sep 1995 15:49:46 
 Some thoughts about the single row chain in the 81-83 380 models. I have 
 always maintained that chains were cheap and we have changed these chains 
 every 30,000 miles (I am very conservative with other peoples cars). Then the 
 following.. a 1981 380SEC that I have maintained since new. REplaced chain at 
 30K, chain and updated cam sprockets at 60K and then at 82,000 with no 
 warning, no noise, no nuttin', the chain snapped. The post mortem revealed 
 that the sprockets inside the timing chest were so worn out they had damaged 
 the chain. The idler sprocket, the distributor drive sprocket and the 
 crankshaft sprocket were EXTREMELY worn out. I have now changed my point of 
 view and we have been converting every car in my fleet. I called all of my 
 customers within the affected range and told them to convert or sell. We have 
 converted five now and the condition of the sprockets that we have taken out 
 makes me think of a bomb, sitting there just ticking away. I now believe the 
 conversion really needs to be done.. Stu Ritter


On Mar 23, 2012, at 10:21 AM, clay monroe wrote:

 I really want a 280 engine.  No need for V8 guzzling and lack of power 
 because it got detuned anyway.  Dual banks of things to go wrong with V8, and 
 twice the expense.
 
 clay
 
 On Mar 23, 2012, at 9:57 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:
 
 
 On Mar 23, 2012 9:53 AM, John Freer mbfo...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Converted to dual chain? If not, run.
 


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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 1983 Mercedes Benz Station Wagon 300TD - $500 (Whitefield, NH)

2012-03-21 Thread Dave in SoCal

On Mar 21, 2012, at 12:40 PM, Fmiser wrote:
 
 
 KLIMA?  I haven't found a KLIMA - but I haven't looked
 either.  It does have a monovalve and the ACC controller is
 interchangeable with earlier cars.  Might it still have a KLIMA?

The relay is near the fuse box / brake booster.
The wiring, I believe, heads down to a black box in the passenger footwell.

I love my '85 wagon. Would not trade it for any other year… but I say the same 
thing about my '84 Euro wagon.
Both are keepers.

Dave
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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Dave in SoCal
So, no Klima on Dan's model.

The linked post below makes it appear that the MAS may control A/C functions.
http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showpost.php?p=126705postcount=13

Post #4 here, says something different:
http://mbworld.org/forums/190e-w201/48220-c-compressor-relay-92-190e-2-6-a.html

Hmmm...

if one of these relays is taking over some Klima functions, I wonder (shooting 
from the hip) if it works like the Klima does on my '85 W123… 
if freon pressure is lost, a pressure switch tells the Klima to turn off the 
compressor solenoid, saving the compressor from damage.

I know they changed the configuration and function of this thing many, many 
times but here's my schematic (all I can find)… maybe it'll jog a memory or 
point to a possibility until the real schematic appears.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GMQYuBJUv3hTB_4vilWnuB_L548h0FhsE9Lwz-quTRM?feat=directlink

Dave
SoCal


For completion, according to the manual the two other functions on a 1985 W123 
Klima are:
(1) when the engine is started, the relay keeps the compressor solenoid off 
until 10 seconds after the engine speed has reached 600 RPM. This improves 
engine speed stabilization after startup.
(2) with engine speed less than 1050 RPM, when the accelerator is floored, the 
compressor solenoid is released until the engine reaches 2150 RPM or the 
accelerator is released. This function is controlled by a microswitch on the 
valve cover.


On Mar 14, 2012, at 6:22 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

 Compressor clutch coils can go bad, they're in a harsh
 environment.  Connectors thereto, also.  But it sounds
 KLIMA-ish to me.  The WOT switch can affect the AC too.
 
 -- Jim


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