Re: [MBZ] Was Amazing July specials, Now Windows v. Mac
John Berryman wrote: Again, the mini. How about comparing the fully upgradeable G-5 dual processor PowerMac or the new intel dual core G-5 PowerMac or MacBook Pro, even the new iMac. Check the specs on these models including standard and upgrade video cards, both with 256MB vRam. I just got a mac mini. The *new* ones have Intel chips in them and I found a store that was practically giving away the *old* version at like a 40% discount. Look for some of those, they sell as 1.24 and 1.42. And I will tell you it is swet. I got a 1.42 for $380. But I can't really weigh in on the war because I have PC's also as I make my living as a computer programmer. Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 97kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] short in aux fan
Just wanted to say thanks to all who responded to this question about my shorting aux fan. To answer Marshalls question, it does turn very freely. I will update this thread as I make more headway on the problem. Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 97kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] short in aux fan
Levi mentioned a service bulletin on running a larger wire with larger fuse, can anyone give any insight into this ? It would be a bummer to get a new fan only to find out that the extra draw is actually coming from the blower motor. What if I find that the fan does in fact draw more than it originally had and I just wire it up with heavier gauge wire directly from the batter, using a larger fuse in there somewhere ? Of course, it would not qualify as a show car at that point but... Thanks, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 97kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] short in aux fan
Hello All, I posted about this in the past and haven't really figured out how to approach it. I am not sure how to track down the short or to determine if the fan is bad. I have a volt meter and the schematic for the car. A few people made comments, one that this car may go through a few fans it its lifetime but I don't want to just run out and buy a fan if I don't need it. I noticed that my auxillary cooling fan was not plugged in the other day and wanted to get that fixed. The fan has never been plugged in and the AC has not worked since I got the car. After I plugged it in as soon as I started the car it ran for about 15 seconds and then stopped. I noticed that it had blown a fuse. Other point of interest is that on the repair information from previous owner it says conversion to r134a, wire aux fan to run constantly. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 97kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: The W124 Bible]
Where can I get the w123 bible ? or is there such a thing ? Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 92kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] [Fwd: Ignition replacement for W126]
This is from a write up I did on my W123, I think the only difference may be the tool that you use to poke in there to release the tumbler, the w126 may require a two prong tool which has an steep angle towards the middle on both sides. Hope this helps. This past weekend I replaced the ignition tumbler in my 82 300TD. I was surprised that the write-ups that I found on the Internet were almost all for the w124, the series after mine, which use a different tool and has a different process. It is really very easy. I used a hair pin, one of those symmetrical ones with all the plastic removed from the tip, or you could use a pin, but you need very stiff wire. The w123's have a single hole on the face of the tumbler where the key goes in. By inserting the wire in there, after turning the key to position 1 you release a protrusion from the tumbler. You can find this hole by putting the key in and turning while gently pushing the hair pin in towards the tumbler. After you push the pin in you can pull on the key which will release the tumbler. The tumbler will come out about an 1/8th of an inch. At this point you will be able to unscrew the black cover that goes around the tumbler. There is a special tool that is used to get good friction on this heavy metal cover as it is smooth and can be hard to get started. I did not use this tool. After this cover is unscrewed both the black cover piece and the tumbler will come completely out. You basically just reverse the process to get it all back together. Taking your new tumbler and putting the black cover over it with the pin in place then inserting this all into the ignition assembly. You then screw the black cover back on until it finally is far enough in that the spring loaded protrusion pops out and stops the cover from turning. Finished. Hope this helps someone with this job. If you wait too long to do this, until the tumbler fails it is very expensive and time consuming to have to drill out the lock. Regards to the list, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 92kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Tensioner Components
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Marshall said: ...The original tensioner arms and idlers used on '84-'85 OM60x engines seldom lasted more than 50-75kmi... Would this apply to my car as well ? Not unless you've slipped an OM60x engine into your 123 chassis car!! Marshal Thanks for clearing that up. Perhaps there is such a thing as a stupid question. I was confused but I knew my car didn't have a serpentine belt. It makes me wonder if the belt tensioners on the 123's go bad ? I am just about to replace my belts. Thanks, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 91kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Tensioner Components
Marshall said: ...The original tensioner arms and idlers used on '84-'85 OM60x engines seldom lasted more than 50-75kmi... Would this apply to my car as well ? This weekend I work on diagnosing my non-working aux fan, thanks to all that gave insight into that. Thanks, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 91kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] Aux Cooling Fan - Short
Hello All, I noticed that my auxillary cooling fan was not plugged in the other day and wanted to get that fixed. The fan has never been plugged in and the AC has not worked since I got the car. After I plugged it in as soon as I started the car it ran for about 15 seconds and then stopped. I noticed that it had blown a fuse. Other point of interest is that on the repair information from previous owner it says conversion to r134a, wire aux fan to run constantly. The car has always run under 100 degrees so it has not overheated and does not run hot. Is that normal for the fan to run as soon as you start the car ? I know that I need to check the schematic to see that the wiring has not been altered and I imagine I should check to see that the aux fan switch is working. Any other insight would be appreciated. Thanks, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 96kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] Palm Oil as a Fuel for Agricultural Diesel Engines: Comparative Testing against Diesel Oil
Hello All, I read this study and the one conclussion that really jumped out was: ...Wear in the engines fueled by refined palm oil and diesel oil is not significantly different but wear in the compression rings of the engine fueled by refined palm oil is significantly higher... see: http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_SVO-palm.html Makes me not want to use VO or WVO or anything like that. It looked to be a pretty thorough well done study. I guess the next question is perhaps you would get different results from different natural oils ? Enjoy ! Dan Elliott '82 300D-T 95kim Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] Are these cars worth all the effort
I often think about whether or not all the time and effort we put into these cars is worth it. There surely is no money to made ... One of the reasons that I do it is because I am cheap. These cars are much more inexpensive to buy and maintain than other cars and you have a chance in hell of fixing them yourself. There are no engine lights and a thousand sensors to track down, no CPU. One of the big reasons novice mechanics are able to repair them has to do with the loyal hobbyist community but also the way that they are built, I like that so many of the parts are made to be taken apart and rebuilt. They seem to come apart in predictable ways (as shown by this lists ability to diagnose problems so readily). Another reason is that they are safe, I think the weight and the amount of metal in these older cars is substantial as compared to all the plastic in these newer cars. God help you if you get into an accident in a Geo metro, especially with an SUV. I also like the way that they sound, they remind me of a boat. They perform very well and are classy. The ride is fantastic ! Like riding in a freight train. That's my 2 cents. Dan Elliott 300D-T 95kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] auxiliary fan - plug - 82 300D-T
My auxiliary fan has come unplugged, where does this three prong plug connect ? Thanks, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 94kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] cost of diesel
The EIA has released its forecasts for prices for various markets. It says U.S. motorists can expect to pay an average $2.62 a gallon at the pump this summer, 25 cents more than last year. Retail diesel prices are forecast to average $2.62 a gallon, up 21 cents from a year earlier. This year, refiners will be required to reduce the sulfur content in 80% of diesel fuel sold from 500 parts per million to 15. This change will increase the cost of producing and distributing the fuel by 4 to 6 cents a gallon. The DOE says that the conversion to ultra-low-sulfur diesel (ULSD) is possibly the most difficult fuel specification transition the refining industry has had to make to date. ...From an investment newsletter. Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 94kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush (update)
First, thanks again to all the commented on this problem, lots of valuable insight. Bottom line, it is running fine now. I opened up the thermostat housing, the radiator plug, the plug to the engine block, hoses to and from the heator core and removed the resevoir cap and ran gallons and gallons of water through it. It produced a lot of rust and crud from the acid flush and I am guessing that this must have been slowing things down. Filled it up with Zerex G-05 and it is now running cooler than ever by about 10-15 degress. Thanks, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 94kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
Johnny B. said: Have you considered checking to see if the thermostat has junk in it or it's stuck from a reaction to the acid flush? Are your belts tight? I will look into that. I should mention that when I replaced the radiator hoses, rubber right ? They had a layer of rust in there. I think there is a ton of rust in this engine. What is the routine for getting rid of all of this ? Is one acid flush typically enough ? What about using a Prestone product instead of the citric acid method ? On the subject of the radiator, do you ever replace them when they are not leaking but because they have correded inside or have deposits within them that can't be removed ? Thanks, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 93kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
Hello All, I recently did an acid flush and the car was running fine until a few days after the flush. The car now is running hotter than *before* the flush. By that I mean getting to up over 100, which it has never done before on such short trips. Prior to this if I would drive it very hard for a while it would get to near this temp then shortly go back to 90. I am thinking that perhaps the flush dissolved or dislodged a bunch of stuff that now has somehow disabled my water pump ? The water pump is rusty at the base, not far from the weep hole, that seems unusual since the rest of the engine seems to have a nice layer of oil on it. I have been reading that one way to test for a bad water pump is to hold the top radiator hose when the engine is warm and when you release it you should feel water rushing through. I tried that but am not sure I can feel this. The other indicator is to look at the weep hole to check for water, I did not do this yet. The water from the flush was very rusty, but it has been rusty every time I have changed the coolant. A few months ago I put in a new thermostat which helped the car run cooler. I have also read that overheating can come from a bad fan clutch, not sure what that is or how to test for that. I understand that I might also have a bad radiator but I understand that one way to tell if you have a bad radiator is how fast it drains, mine drains extremely fast, just pours out. Any insight would be appreciated. Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 93kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
Thanks to all who responded! To answer a few questions: Dimitri asked if I had re-checked the coolant level. Yes I did. It was a few days after the flush that this overheating happened and in that time I added enough to top off. It was fine for a few days afterwards and then started acting up. Jim Cathey asked if I remembered to put the thermostat back in, yes I did and it was running fine for a few days then started acting up. Also mentioned checking the actual temperature of the head. I am thinking I should just change the sensor. New Question: I guess the sensor is located on the top of the motor very near the thermostat housing with one wire attached ? New Question: Is the water pump difficult to change ? I was reading about it in the Haynes manual last night, any special tools required ? I guess I should think about putting new belts on at this point ? Any thing else while I am in there ? Tom Potter said the rust will form a mild abrasive destroying pump seals this sounds like what might have been happening for a while and the acid flush just finished off the job by releasing even more rust and crud. The other thing I should mention is that I am using water for coolant right now as I track down MB Coolant. Not sure if that would explain my problem. Seems unlikely since it was working fine. Thanks in Advance, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 93kmi -Currently Parked- Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
Tom Potter mentioned that I might have a blocked u tube between head and water pump. I will look into that before I start ordering parts. The fact that my water pump is very rusty really sticks out since everything else is oily. That point is hard for me to get around. And that the coolant has been rusty every time I have drained it for the past few years. Using water as coolant. I was just reading the official MB manual and it says that you can use water as long as you use a rust inhibitor. I am in the stage of the flushing process where you run the engine with water in it to get out the acid. Will get back to coolant soon. Jim Cathey Said: Check the temperature first, and replace the sender if it's wrong. Where is that thing anyway ? The reason would be that the sender costs a lot less than an infrared thermometer. I think that sometimes it is cheaper to throw some parts at a problem. (But lets not get philosophical) What about putting a glass thermometer on the top coolant hose ? Jim Cathey Said: A sudden change in operating temperature, everything else being the same, is either the sender lying or the thermostat acting up. This is intriguing because that is what I have on my hands. I guess I really need to visually inspect the weep hole to verify that it is leaking. I will do that and report back. The thermostat is only about 4 months old. I guess I should check it to make sure it is correct. Will do that and report back. Dan Elliott '82 300D-T 93kmi -grounded- Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
Marshall Wrote: The most usual cause of what you describe is a BIG air bubble in the cooling system. Did you have the heater heat on full when filling the system? Did you finally fill the system thru the top radiator hose? That allows air to be expelled when nothing else works. I did not do the things that you mentioned but I drove it for nearly 3 hours over the course of a few days at highway speed sometimes for up to 30 minutes with no problems until now. Would an air bubble suddenly cause this ? Not sure. Seems to me that something like that might happen right away. I will try to do the things that you mention above as well as: 1. checking the weep hole on the water pump and the sound of the water pump and 2. Checking that the small tube that sends coolant to the head is clear. I think I will also check the connection of the temp sensor. Thanks to everyone that replied for the many valuable insights. Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 93kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] Replacing Hood Heat Shield
My 2 cents... I did this job using the stuff Marshall mentioned with the product code 9070. If you spray both the pad and your hood let stand for a few minutes until tacky, it will work like contact cement, no need to take your hood off. Start at the back and just move towards the front of the car. The worst part is getting the old stuff off but the whole job takes like 15 minutes. I found that once you start spraying better to keep on going as the can wants to plug if you let is sit. Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 93kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] archives
I wonder if there is a way to search *these* emails as before with a search archive form ? If not that would be a very handy enhancement. Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 93kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices - ultra low-sulfur diesel
Marshall wrote: The present nearly 30% premium of diesel over gasoline won't endure (unless some idiot decides to raise the tax on diesel even higher) as the demand for fuel oil declines with the approach of spring and the demand for gasoline increases as the vacation season arrives. They'll be about equal then. I hope that you are right but I keep reading in energy related news things like this : on the diesel side, the U.S. will begin to shift to ultra low-sulfur diesel, which will likely tighten stocks. This could have a undesirable effect on prices. Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 93kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] motor mounts 82 300TDt
When you say alignment bar could that be a very large screwdriver ? or is that a special tool ? Also, is there any other job that is good to do while you are replacing motor mounts. I have a recollection that it is a good time to do oil cooler lines. Or fix a leaking oil filter housing. Thanks, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 93kmi On Mar 13, 2006, at 5:58 PM, Richard Murdoch wrote: I spent yesterday replacing the oil cooler lines on our 82 300TDt and thought I was doing fine until I could not get the right engine support to align with the motor mount bolt hole. (Thought I was home free when the left side dropped right into place.) Cut the other side loose again, lift the engine evenly and insert an alignment bar in both holes in chassis into the mounts. Lower the engine slowly using the line-up bars to center both mounts at once. I do this alone most of the time but an assistant can come in handy. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] Tranny cooler line clamps- 107 chassis
I have discovered a leak in my cooler line this past weekend. It is the one on the passenger side. This looks pretty straight forward just removing the brackets and connect the end tranny and the other to the radiator, am I missing something tricky about this job ? For the frequency of this I think it would absolutely qualify as a preventative maintenance item, to replace the rubber portions that prevent wear on both lines. Regards All, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 92kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] Replacing ignition tumbler w123 (300D)
This past weekend I replaced the ignition tumbler in my 82 300TD. I was surprised that the write-ups that I found on the Internet were almost all for the w124, the series after mine, which use a different tool and has a different process. It is really very easy. I used a hair pin, one of those symmetrical ones with all the plastic removed from the tip, or you could use a pin, but you need very stiff wire. The w123's have a single hole on the face of the tumbler where the key goes in. By inserting the wire in there, after turning the key to position 1 you release a protrusion from the tumbler. You can find this hole by putting the key in and turning while gently pushing the hair pin in towards the tumbler. After you push the pin in you can pull on the key which will release the tumbler. The tumbler will come out about an 1/8th of an inch. At this point you will be able to unscrew the black cover that goes around the tumbler. There is a special tool that is used to get good friction on this heavy metal cover as it is smooth and can be hard to get started. I did not use this tool. After this cover is unscrewed both the black cover piece and the tumbler will come completely out. You basically just reverse the process to get it all back together. Taking your new tumbler and putting the black cover over it with the pin in place then inserting this all into the ignition assembly. You then screw the black cover back on until it finally is far enough in that the spring loaded protrusion pops out and stops the cover from turning. Finished. Hope this helps someone with this job. If you wait too long to do this, until the tumbler fails it is very expensive and time consuming to have to drill out the lock. Regards to the list, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 92kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] Rudolf to the rescue - Economist article re diesel MBZ tech
From the current issue of the Economist, found this interesting. Dan 82 300D-T 91kmi ...Rudolf to the rescue One effect of the 1970s oil shock was to encourage people to buy cars with diesel engines, which are usually more efficient than Otto-cycle engines. However, the fashion did not last. Diesels disappeared from American cars in the 1980s because they were dirty, dull and unreliable. Two things, however, are reviving interest in them. One is the appearance of cleaner, low-sulphur fuel. This is already commonplace in Japan and Europe, and will be introduced to America in the autumn. It contains a mere 15 parts per million of sulphur, which is less than a thirtieth of the amount tolerated today. Coupled with recent advances in direct injection (common rail) engines that improve combustion, and durable particulate traps to capture tiny but dangerous particles of soot, this new fuel is cleaning up emissions and transforming the prospects for diesels in America. J.D. Power, a market research firm, forecasts that the share of the market taken by diesel cars will quadruple from today's 3.2% by 2015. At the motor show, Mercedes-Benz, Honda, BMW, Nissan and Chrysler all revealed their intentions to make diesel engines available in their American cars. Volkswagen, which sold about 30,000 diesels in America last year, says it could have flogged twice that number if it had anticipated the rise in demand. Mercedes is promoting its new BLUETEC system-which incorporates oxidising catalytic converters, particulate filters and a new nitrogen-oxide-reducing system that injects the fuel with urea. This chemical grabs oxygen atoms from nitrogen oxides to produce nitrogen gas (which is harmless) and water. BLUETEC will thus meet new, tougher federal rules on nitrogen-oxide pollution that come into force in 2009. Mercedes claims the new diesel engines it intends to put on the American market will also be 20-40% more economical than their petrol equivalents. It quotes estimates by the Department of Energy which say that if only one-third of America's cars and light trucks were diesels, this would save a quantity of oil equivalent to the country's imports from Saudi Arabia. Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] hesitation going into last gear
Hello All, I topped off my auto-trans fluid recently and noticed that the car now seems to go into the last gear a little hesitantly and will sometimes down shift and then upshift on this gear. Trying to figure out what I might be able to adjust or if I should even worry about it. Thanks ! Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 91kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] greetings, newbie here
Jim You said: Tim, Welcome to the list. My 79 slipped for 3-4 years on the 2-3 part throttle upshift and I thought sure it was terminal. About 6 years ago I replaced the vacuum modulator and that cured the problem. Still on original bands and clutches at 261,000 miles. Putting a mitivac on the old modulator revealed a very slow leak which may have been the cause but I really can't explain why this fixed it. Regards, Jim Friesen When you mentioned the vacuum modulator are you talking about the part that sits on top of the valve cover or as I look on Rusty's site a part that more resembles a gas cap ? Thanks, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 91kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] dial gauge question
tom savage [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tom, You said your *rear* wheel had a bad bearing. It is my understanding that a *rear* wheel bearing re-pack is not an easy job and not something that non-pros should try to tackle. The front is a different story. But you have selected the correct tool for the front. www.grizzlytools.com also sells affordable ones. Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 91kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] monovalve replacement - fixed problem
It's so easy, and relatively cheap, that there's little reason to put it off. It's also easy to examine the old part, torn rubber is pretty apparent. You can have a positive diagnosis before spending dime one. It is an easy fix but it still cost between $30-$75 for the part. What they really need to sell is just the rubber membrane for $2. I have read other sources that describe fixing your monovalve with a condom. I think if I attemped this I would use a rubber glove or something. Has any one attempted a monovalve repair ? Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 90kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen
I was in Guadalajara Mexico this Summer and there were car washers that were pushing this, they seemed to be having a lot of success getting customers. Surprised people would pay for this, sort of, luxury item. Dan 82 300D-T 90kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] monovalve replacement - fixed problem
I replaced my monovalve, which was so easy to do, and it fixed my heating problem. The heat would sometimes not work at all but always would not heat after about 1/2 an hour on the road. The monovalve's rubber gasket was completely torn all the way around. Thanks to the list for insight into this problem. Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 90kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] water wetter
Has anyone used this coolant additive that is supposed to enhance the cooling capabilities of the coolant by around 20 degrees ? Is this product on the list of approved additives ? Thanks, Dan E 82 300D-T 90kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] Rear Shock Absorbers
How do you know when to replace the shocks ? Does anybody ever just keep the orginals ? Dan E 82 300D-T 90kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] Fwd: thermostat replacement
Hello All, I put in a new thermostat last night which shipped with *2* rubber gaskets. As I took out the old one I did not see any place to install one of the new rubber gaskets. Where does the smaller gasket go on this car ? (I am hoping that it is for a different model car.) The pictures in the manual are very dark and hard to see details. It is just a round gasket as you would see on the top of the oil filter housing with a smaller diameter. Thanks, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 89kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection. Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] temperature of w123 - thermostat
I am trying to figure out what my temp gauge should read. It seems to be at about 100 when fully warmed up. Sometimes spiking to over 120 for a few minutes under heavy load. Thinking of replacing my thermostat since it is probably original to the car. From: LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] You talking 100F or 100C? My 240D runs at about ~175F when warmed up. I believe that is what the thermostat is set for. I am guessing that the gauge on the car is in celsius so I am talking celsius, although Rusty's thermostat page for my car says temp 80 so what I am really looking for from the list is a number, 80 seems too low, not sure. Thanks, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 89kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] Intermittent Heating Question
My heater works fine for about the first 45 minutes of a trip and then blows just barely luke warm to cold. Is this the problem of the disintegrating tube from the dash to the thermostat unit ? Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 89kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] Intermittent Heating Question
My heater works fine for about the first 45 minutes of a trip and then blows just barely luke warm to cold. Is this the problem of the disintegrating tube from the dash to the thermostat unit ? Any insight would be appreciated. Quite likely. If it resumes heating on MAX the chances are good. Otherwise, perhaps it's the monovalve going out. -- Jim It does *not* resume heating on Max. The other strange thing is that the car has a turn valve between the auxiliary water pump and the heater core. Not sure why they put this there, others have said this is not a production config. Also the AC doesn't work. Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 89kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] Intermittent Heating Question
Thanks to --Jim for insight into the heating question. Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 89kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] diesel benz site
I found a website that might be of interest to this group: http://www.dieselbenz.info No affiliation. It has Mods, Tips, Fixes, Reviews, Hacks More Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 89kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] Wine in Phoenix
What kind of wine should I take to a Thanksgiving dinner? I'm a non drinker and I am clueless. A white wine. Gewuerztraminer (a kind of grape) ,pick a dryer one, has a lot more personality than Pinot gris. American, German, other countries produce it also. This type of wine is widely available and not too expensive. Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 88kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] voltage regulator question w123
How difficult is it to install a voltage regulator ? How do you go about that ? Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 88kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] voltage regulator question w123
Hearing about the lifespan of a voltage regulator being about 150kmi for a w124 makes me think about mine. Does this same limit apply to the w123 ? Also, how difficult is it to install one of these ? How do you go about that ? TIA, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 88kmi ps Adjusted my valves this past weekend for the first time and I found a piece of something in there that looked about the same shape as a piece of hot dog, round on one side, but was black and really crumbled to the touch. Seemed like a strange place to find debris. What am I going to find next, an old shoe ? Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] basic question about Allen wrenches
To drain my differential I purchased large Allen wrench fittings that I use with my socket set. They do not look like the typical L shaped Allen wrenches. I am thinking that it would be a good idea to get a complete set of these to work with the car as the L type tools seem to flex so much and I worry about being able to apply a lot of force to them. As an example I am still intending to swap out my motor mounts but worry that I will just break the L type Allen wrench off. What do you guys say ? Thanks in advance, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 87kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] IP oel cap (red) on '76 240D W115
Marshall wrote: later injection pumps are tied to and lubricated by the engine lubrication system I wonder when that happened and if need to worry about checking the oil level in my IP ? Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 87kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] diesel prices coming down
Look for diesel prices to keep coming down over the next few weeks. Heating oil degree days are forecasted at 87,some 41 below normal. Above normal temperatures for the entire eastern 2/3rds of the country for the next 8-14 day period. (from noaa) dan elliott 82 300d-t 87kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] Auto Trans - lifespan
What is the expected mileage lifespan range for my transmission I wonder ? I recall 150 kmi on average. Is that right ? dan elliott 82 300d-t 87kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] Sad Death
Richard Smith wrote: George Washington committed *adultery* with his *slaves* and died of complications from *VD*. That does not sound to moral or responsible to me. Uhmm... I think you need to check your facts on that one. He died of some infection to his throat. My research on the man never turned up *any* of that. He was known for being quite prudish and incorruptible actually. He was a tightwad though which would make him fine company for this group I should imagine. Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 87kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] steering shock and center drag link
Hello All, While getting my recent state inspection the guy said that I needed a new steering shock and center drag link. Do these commonly wear out with a car of this age ? The steering shock sounds more like a comfort item and the car seems to drive fine. They want $100 for center drag link and $50 for steering shock. Any insight would be appreciated, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 86kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] steering shock and center drag link
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello All, While getting my recent state inspection the guy said that I needed a new steering shock and center drag link. Do these commonly wear out with a car of this age ? The steering shock sounds more like a comfort item and the car seems to drive fine. They want $100 for center drag link and $50 for steering shock. Marshall: Yes, those commonly wear out BEFORE most cars reach 23 years of age! The prices seem modest. Are these relatively easy DIY jobs, not requiring special tools ? Should they need to be fixed to pass a state inspection ? TIA, Regards To All, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 86kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] 1987 300D - transmission flare at part throttle (Mitch Haley)
I think that might be related to vacuum pressure. I have flare-ups and hard shifts when I have a vacuum line loose. It happened to me yesterday coming home from work. It was down-shifting real hard and other sorts of problems, including flare-ups upon acceleration. I was hoping I would find a loose vacuum tube and sure enough when I opened the hood - - there it was, reconnected it and the transmission shifted fine. Also check fluid level, but I bet you did that already. Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 86kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] OT, converting CD's to mp3
This can be done with many free programs. There is an itunes for Windows that works just fine but you can also use Windows Media which is likely already installed on your machine. There are another of other free sound programs, for a sound editor check out www.audacity.com. Very useful for splicing sound files or editing sound files, also LP to MP3 conversion. Dan Elliott '82 300D-T 86kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] Porsche
Just read an article in the Economist about the auto industry and it claimed that the Porsche Boxter is not manufactured by Porsche but contracted out to engineering firms because of its limited production. It also went on to say that this is likely to be more and more common with auto manufacturer's in the future. They will design the car's and the technology and another company will make them. It mentioned that the first Chinese made cars are being imported into Europe. Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 84kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] Diesel priced lower than gasoline around here...
Not sure if everyone is seeing this but diesel is cheaper around Philadelphia than gasoline. I like it ! dan elliott 82 300D-T 84kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
[MBZ] OT: Nikon Cameras - Electronics Purchasing
This is a great site for researching electronics including computers, etc. It has historical prices, with graphs and where to purchase items so you can see if an item has just dropped in price in the market etc. http://www.streetprices.com/ Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 84kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
