Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
I had one of those too - a 1977, and a 1982, and a 1983, and a 1984... Thanks, Tom Hargrave www.kegkits.com 256-656-1924 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of R A Bennell Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 3:46 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D Why? I have a 76 300D and highly recommend one. Randy -Original Message- Now, with all of this talk about 115 bodies, I kind of miss my 220D 240Ds. They were great cars. Someone please stop me before I buy another Thanks, Tom Hargrave ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Tom Hargrave wrote: Now, with all of this talk about 115 bodies, I kind of miss my 220D 240Ds. They were great cars. Someone please stop me before I buy another Til you have to replace the heater blower motor! Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
I had the radiator for the 450SLC rodded just a few months ago at a local Ma Pa shop. On 11/6/06, Tyler Backman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I can't seem to find a place that will do this anymore. All of the radiator shops just replace the radiator. I have the old style brass radiators on all four of my vehicles (74 mercedes, 84 volvo, 87 volvo, and 89 honda). -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D Peek a boo
steering, and four on the floor. 0-60 in 10 minutes. I find our 200D quite torquey, and usually leave it in fourth gear for most driving, once I'm up to speed. It'll even hit about 65 by the end of the onramp, if I'm alone. The 240D auto took 'til almost the next exit to get up to speed. I think the 115 is a better highway driver than the 123 series I like the 'feel' of the 115 better than anything else we have. Both the 107 and 126 feel a bit ponderous, the 123 is better, and the 115 edges them all out. Our 201, which reputedly is a great-handling car, is a steaming pile, and I'd like the opportunity to drive a properly set up one someday. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Well that doesn't sound right... Unless the 115 has significantly less cooling capacity than a 123 it should be able to keep up unless its 110 and you're driving flat out with the AC on. I was never able to get my 240D to heat up except for the time I put the thermostat in backwards... My 190D however is playing this new game in heavy traffic but it cools off quick with the heat on. I think I've got a clogged radiator like Luther, and like Luther I'm going to try to clean it rather than just sucking it up and replacing it... Maybe some day I'll get smart too. -Curt Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2006 14:45:38 -0800 From: Tyler Backman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed -BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE- Hash: SHA1 I am not certain how they differ, but my 1974 240D is an excellent highway car. Fuel economy is impressive, and it gets up and cruises all day at 75mph with no problems. It also has very little wind noise, and feels very stable. When climbing steep grades, the speed goes down drastically, and I have to be somewhat easy on it to keep from pegging the temp gauge. I just drove mine from Corvallis, OR to Crescent City, CA and back a month ago, and it worked excellent. If you need to cruise over 75mph, go the speed limit up hills, or hit the speed limit before the end of the onramp it may not be your ideal car. Tyler Backman - Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Mon Nov 06 02:30:23 2006 Received: from alnrmhc12.comcast.net ([206.18.177.52]) by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1GguFj-0005Rx-6a for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Mon, 06 Nov 2006 02:30:23 + Received: from aceraspire (c-68-57-181-125.hsd1.va.comcast.net[68.57.181.125]) by comcast.net (alnrmhc12) with SMTP id 20061106022928b12007ipt2e; Mon, 6 Nov 2006 02:29:49 + Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com References: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2006 21:29:22 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.2869 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2962 X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Subject: Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp1 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: /pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Mon, 06 Nov 2006 02:30:23 - Thanks Jim, I am fairly certain I have a bad GP because of the following: + I am getting power to the GPs when the key is turned to PreGlow. + It starts easily after a 15 count when cold (~28F this AM) + When 1st started this AM it idled rough for ~5 seconds. Also, I looked at the guts of the old Relay and it appears it will *not* send voltage to less than all 5 GPs because of the design. Your comment about the dash light and preglow being on 2 entirely different circuits explains why the dash light goes out so quickly. It may be something we live with unless I decide to try and get MB to give me a replacement. So, my next step will be to remove the old GPs one by one and see what they do when powered by a battery charger. They should glow soon after applying power - although my BC may trip out. ;-/ which will mean I try something else. I'll need to be very careful of course. I will probably buy a meter that will work with 30A or so. I'll probably get more use out of it than I think --- I'll let ya'll know how things turn out. Thanks again for all the help - I sincerely appreciate it - Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 7:27 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality I can handle a $20 ammeter. How will this be differnt from my 10A DMM? Simple, it'll measure 30A without burning out! So
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Curt: It is so unlikely that you will be able to clean out that rad that you would be better off catching meteors Check for a cold spot in front of the fan -- if there is one, dump the rad. Sadly, the stuff that collects is only dissolved by acids that will also eat the aluminum, and you cannot remove and replace the tanks, the aluminum crimps break off. You can get a copper and brass replacment for the W123 cars, but I don't know of one for the newer ones. And, after all, it's what, old enough to vote? Peter
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
it's old enough to be president. almost. That, and that whole Born in the US thing. On 11/5/06, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Curt: It is so unlikely that you will be able to clean out that rad that you would be better off catching meteors Check for a cold spot in front of the fan -- if there is one, dump the rad. Sadly, the stuff that collects is only dissolved by acids that will also eat the aluminum, and you cannot remove and replace the tanks, the aluminum crimps break off. You can get a copper and brass replacment for the W123 cars, but I don't know of one for the newer ones. And, after all, it's what, old enough to vote? Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE- Hash: SHA1 Curt, You might be right. I can run mine full throttle up hills if I turn both heater cores and the blower fan on full blast, so I probably have a clogged radiator. I've never had any luck with radiator flush, and I have no chance of affording a new radiator. At least it is the old style brass radiator. I wonder if vinegar or some other weak acid would work? Tyler On Nov 5, 2006, at 6:19 PM, Curt Raymond wrote: Well that doesn't sound right... Unless the 115 has significantly less cooling capacity than a 123 it should be able to keep up unless its 110 and you're driving flat out with the AC on. I was never able to get my 240D to heat up except for the time I put the thermostat in backwards... My 190D however is playing this new game in heavy traffic but it cools off quick with the heat on. I think I've got a clogged radiator like Luther, and like Luther I'm going to try to clean it rather than just sucking it up and replacing it... Maybe some day I'll get smart too. -Curt -BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE- Version: GnuPG v1.4.5 (Darwin) iD8DBQFFTrFWt178NxI/higRAvj6AJ43D6F3JPHsTl/QRJ+zDwyC+BHiewCeMPeY 2ySJuZR4Jpcei7RBoOh8QvQ= =UWwb -END PGP SIGNATURE-
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
I think Tyler is driving a 115 chassis 240D - it should have the copper radiator like the 220D (?). If so, take it to a radiator shop for rodding, cleaning, and flow testing. Mercedes recommends using a citric acid flush - it's covered in the service manual. There was recent thread on the subject, complete with the proper dilution of the acid. On 11/5/06, Tyler Backman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: -BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE- Hash: SHA1 Curt, You might be right. I can run mine full throttle up hills if I turn both heater cores and the blower fan on full blast, so I probably have a clogged radiator. I've never had any luck with radiator flush, and I have no chance of affording a new radiator. At least it is the old style brass radiator. I wonder if vinegar or some other weak acid would work? Tyler -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
If the engine is cared for and the transmission is good, you can cruise all day at 74 mph. I can get Gump to top speed of 87 mph for a few miles, but back down since she does not like to go that fast. The cars are slow to get to top speed but will hold it as well as any other diesel, expect those new turbo or CDI things. Gump will climb a hill in second or third and gain speed. Slowly, but she will gain at WOT. If you are not driving them WOT, you will not get far or fast. On Nov 5, 2006, at 4:19 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Beside all the normal slow to accelerate stuff, what is the general concessis of those who have driven and owned 115 chassis 220Ds as HIGHWAY cars. I have a real nice one I have come across well maintained, standard, low rust, relatively low miles all records ect for low dollars. What are the bad actors on the car please. I have only messed with 123 chassis 240D and 300D non turbo stuf. You thoughts please. Regards Tom Scordato 1979 240D -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Use citric acid, that will take out anything stronger acids will. Chances are, unless the core is badly corroded, your local radiator shop will be able to unsolder the tanks and rod out the core, then solder the tanks back on. Make SURE they either seal or remove the oil cooler while doing this You don't want a slug of water or acid to get in the oil sump! modern aluminum core rads become junk at this stage (everything past 1983 or so). Peter
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
On Sun, 5 Nov 2006 20:50:37 -0800 Redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The cars are slow to get to top speed but will hold it as well as any other diesel, expect those new turbo or CDI things. Gump will climb a hill in second or third and gain speed. Slowly, but she will gain at WOT. If you are not driving them WOT, you will not get far or fast. When I had our 1972 220D/8, I noticed that power would increase as I pressed on the accelerator until a certain point, at which power would decrease. This was accompanied by black smoke out the exhaust. Also, the point of maximum power would occur at greater accelerator depression the faster the car was going. I developed a feel for it and would keep the car just below the smoke point for maximum power and maximum economy. Craig
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
The blower is a DIY, but get a friend or two for dash install and removal. You will need that many hands to man handle it out. I think the windscreen got installed after the dash. If you can have friends hitting all the parts, you could do it in a few hours. Alone it is 10 hours shop time. Cussing and beer will make that longer. Meals will really make it long. Shop time is 10-12 hours.That is why I did it myself. Not worth $1200 to me for the dealer to do it. Blower is a $400 part new. Find a PnP spare to install. Winter heat is a pain with the blower gone. If you get a foggy windshield, you really want the blower. As long as you are moving at 15-20 mph, you get some heat in the cabin. That is normal for blower or no blower. With the blower, you get a wee bit of heat, but nothing like when the car is hauling *$$ down the road. On Nov 5, 2006, at 7:07 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Sunil asked: does it have cruise control, no cruise, no AC in it, no power steering. Heat and fan works. Four on the floor. Simple simple... Bad actor seems to be fan/blower motor If blower goes, is it a DIY project and about how many hours of laor minus my swearing time... Regards Tom -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
YES to Everything Best place to get to know the car is to putter around town for a day and then get out on the highway and go for 80 miles to open her up. They drive like old cars or like cars used to long ago. On Nov 5, 2006, at 7:03 AM, Peter Frederick wrote: They feel a bit breathless at highway speeds due to the low gearing (84 mph is the top speed with an auto, you might get a couple more mph out of a standard). A long trip on the interstate might be tiring, but they DO go forever on fuel, usually in the mid 30's on the road. I used to drive mine (when it ran) for three weeks on a tank of fuel to and from work. They are SLOW on acceleration, you should drive it a bit before you buy it, it can get quite scary of you forget. You will spend quite a bit of time with your foot to the floor in normal traffic. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Jim, I thought the Frankenheap had a 616 head. Makes it a 240D then? On Nov 5, 2006, at 8:39 AM, Jim Cathey wrote: Beside all the normal slow to accelerate stuff, what is the general consensus of those who have driven and owned 115 chassis 220Ds as HIGHWAY cars. I think they'd make a real nice highway car. A dead blower motor then makes no difference, because they have a good ram air supply. Having driven a 123 240D auto, and my 115 200D manual, I think I'd be happy with it so long as it was not an automatic! The 200D, though a bit sluggish, is _nothing_ like the slug the 240D was, and can even merge onto the freeway at something approximating the speed limit on our local (short) on-ramp. Of course you'd want cruise control on a highway beast, but it can be retrofitted, with some work. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
That is why I have two pre filters. One lives with the current filter and get swapped out for the cleaned one on a change. clean and swap, clean and swap. If you get luck at the PnP, you get another. On Nov 5, 2006, at 9:05 AM, Tom Hargrave wrote: Jim, Since you mentioned the oil filter - there is one other item you need to watch for. There should be a plastic assembly inside the filter housing along with the main replaceable filter. The assembly is the actual primary filter the replaceable filter is a bypass filter. You are supposed to clean the main filter with kerosene re-install it along with the replacement filter. Later Mercedes diesels replaced this filter with the taller drop in filter with 2 elements, the top paper pleated section for engine oil the lower mat section for bypass filtering. Problem is the main filter has been discarded in some older Mercedes by owners oil changers because they don't understand what it is. And without this filter in place to take up the space in the filter housing, the bypass filter floats around in the housing and your engine oil gets no filtering at all! Also, stay away from Fram filters for newer Mercedes diesels. Their filters have pleated paper elements in both sections, making the bypass filter 100% worthless causing your idle oil pressure to run lower. Thanks, Tom Hargrave www.kegkits.com 256-656-1924 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 10:44 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D What are the bad actors on the car please. Bad stuff? Cancerous rust, it's prone to rusting due to many crevices and (I believe) no galvanizing. Changing the oil is messy, it (probably) predates the topsider sucker tube, and the oil filter is the all-over-your-arm from the bottom type. And, of course, the blower motor. It's very DIY, just plan on it taking a lot of time. You have to remove the dashboard, and that takes some doing. Best not to be needing the car for a week or so while you do it, though I hear it can be done in a long weekend. If you ask me, the 115 is an excellent car, and is probably one of the reasons that MB gained such a good reputation. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D Peek a boo
You just got all the power Gump has. Should be able to hit mid 80's on the flats and get big biceps taking corners. On Nov 5, 2006, at 9:41 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Now the next bother. Anyone around Portland Oreg. who could look at this car and take her for a test drive before I comit to drive it cross country. Let me know please and I will get the contact information. No power steering, and four on the floor. 0-60 in 10 minutes. Regards Tom Scordato Bellefonte PA - Original Message - From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 12:05 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D Jim, Since you mentioned the oil filter - there is one other item you need to watch for. There should be a plastic assembly inside the filter housing along with the main replaceable filter. The assembly is the actual primary filter the replaceable filter is a bypass filter. You are supposed to clean the main filter with kerosene re-install it along with the replacement filter. Later Mercedes diesels replaced this filter with the taller drop in filter with 2 elements, the top paper pleated section for engine oil the lower mat section for bypass filtering. Problem is the main filter has been discarded in some older Mercedes by owners oil changers because they don't understand what it is. And without this filter in place to take up the space in the filter housing, the bypass filter floats around in the housing and your engine oil gets no filtering at all! Also, stay away from Fram filters for newer Mercedes diesels. Their filters have pleated paper elements in both sections, making the bypass filter 100% worthless causing your idle oil pressure to run lower. Thanks, Tom Hargrave www.kegkits.com 256-656-1924 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 10:44 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D What are the bad actors on the car please. Bad stuff? Cancerous rust, it's prone to rusting due to many crevices and (I believe) no galvanizing. Changing the oil is messy, it (probably) predates the topsider sucker tube, and the oil filter is the all-over-your-arm from the bottom type. And, of course, the blower motor. It's very DIY, just plan on it taking a lot of time. You have to remove the dashboard, and that takes some doing. Best not to be needing the car for a week or so while you do it, though I hear it can be done in a long weekend. If you ask me, the 115 is an excellent car, and is probably one of the reasons that MB gained such a good reputation. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
In a message dated 11/5/2006 7:38:54 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Beside all the normal slow to accelerate stuff, what is the general concessis of those who have driven and owned 115 chassis 220Ds as HIGHWAY cars. I have a real nice one I have come across well maintained, standard, low rust, relatively low miles all records ect for low dollars. What are the bad actors on the car please. I have only messed with 123 chassis 240D and 300D non turbo stuf. You thoughts please. I have owned and driven two of these era diesels (over 300,000 miles) and they are pretty bullet proof! Timing chain failure is the most likely, somewhere north of 150,000 miles, if oil and filter have been serviced properly. When the timing chain breaks on these diesels, the camshaft stops, leaving a valve depressed in one of the cylinders. The piston strikes the depressed valve, driving it up through the camshaft, which breaks the camshaft and several cam supports. The impact is very near vertical and the valve and/or the piston may , or may not, survive without damage. When the engine gets worn out, low compression I mean, the engine is hard to start when it is warm, and will need to be glowed to start again. Cold starting is also going to be a problem. Mercedes diesel fuel injection, prior to 1975, do not have atmospheric pressure compensation, and will smoke heavily at higher elevations. If you intend to drive a diesel frequently at high altitudes, I would look for a turbocharged diesel, as all of them compensate for altitude and maintain good power as well. Changing the oil will get to be annoying, as you have to deal with washing the oil pre filter and getting the cartridge down and out of the cannister. All worth while if you love the simplicity of these cars. Go for it! Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 264 K miles 98 ML 320, 146 K miles
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Jim, I thought the Frankenheap had a 616 head. Makes it a 240D then? It may. But it still is a 2l motor, not a 2.4, it's just got a little better breathing through slightly larger valves. Or so I understand. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
The displacement difference between the 2.2L and 2.4L is in the cylinder bore (the 2.4 is slightly larger). There are other differences as well -- I believe the IP is lubed by engine oil as in the 617, and that the head is slightly different. Peter
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
The earlier 240 liter, at least the 1975 model, was lubed the same way as the 220 engine. I believe the 240 went to engine oil lubrication in 1976 or 1977. Thanks, Tom Hargrave www.kegkits.com 256-656-1924 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Peter Frederick Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 12:17 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D The displacement difference between the 2.2L and 2.4L is in the cylinder bore (the 2.4 is slightly larger). There are other differences as well -- I believe the IP is lubed by engine oil as in the 617, and that the head is slightly different. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Why would you spend 10-12 hours to install a used part? Wouldn't it make more sense to install a tested but new part? How pissed would you bee two weeks later when you have to do it again. Even if the PnP guy gave you a refund. Chris Kueny ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) 78 Chevy Custom deluxe '85 300TD '02 Subaru Outback '07 Honda 50hp outboard Redghost opined: . Shop time is 10-12 hours.That is why I did it myself. Not worth $1200 to me for the dealer to do it. Blower is a $400 part new. Find a PnP spare to install.
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
The blower motors run a long time before they fail they are easy to test before installing. Thanks, Tom Hargrave www.kegkits.com 256-656-1924 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chris Kueny Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 6:34 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D Why would you spend 10-12 hours to install a used part? Wouldn't it make more sense to install a tested but new part? How pissed would you bee two weeks later when you have to do it again. Even if the PnP guy gave you a refund. Chris Kueny ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) 78 Chevy Custom deluxe '85 300TD '02 Subaru Outback '07 Honda 50hp outboard Redghost opined: . Shop time is 10-12 hours.That is why I did it myself. Not worth $1200 to me for the dealer to do it. Blower is a $400 part new. Find a PnP spare to install. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
The blower motors run a long time before they fail... Especially if, knowing the car's weakness, you turn them off as soon as ram air can take over. They can also, albeit with difficulty, be lubricated from the air intake side. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Not the 2.4 in the 115, the ip still have to be filled with the oil. Only ones that were lubed from the engine was the 115 300D and later diesels. Peter Frederick wrote: The displacement difference between the 2.2L and 2.4L is in the cylinder bore (the 2.4 is slightly larger). There are other differences as well -- I believe the IP is lubed by engine oil as in the 617, and that the head is slightly different. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
I can't seem to find a place that will do this anymore. All of the radiator shops just replace the radiator. I have the old style brass radiators on all four of my vehicles (74 mercedes, 84 volvo, 87 volvo, and 89 honda). On Nov 5, 2006, at 8:44 PM, Peter Frederick wrote: Use citric acid, that will take out anything stronger acids will. Chances are, unless the core is badly corroded, your local radiator shop will be able to unsolder the tanks and rod out the core, then solder the tanks back on. Make SURE they either seal or remove the oil cooler while doing this You don't want a slug of water or acid to get in the oil sump! modern aluminum core rads become junk at this stage (everything past 1983 or so). Peter
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Jim Cathey wrote: The blower motors run a long time before they fail... Especially if, knowing the car's weakness, you turn them off as soon as ram air can take over. Wow, that brings back memories. I used to do that in my Volvo 240. That's another car with a hard-to-get-at blower -- the dash top doesn't have to come out, but almost every other part of the dash and center console does: http://www.gull.us/auto/heater-blower/blower1.jpg Took me about six hours, not counting breaks.
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
6 hours is nothing. It took me 2 very long weekends to replace the blower motor in one 1975 240D. When the blower failed in my second 240D, I sold the car, bought a 123 body 300D never looked back! The blower motor failed in it. 3 screws later a bruised forehead (it fell on my head) I had it replaced and working fine! In fairness to Mercedes, both failed well past 300,000 miles. Now, with all of this talk about 115 bodies, I kind of miss my 220D 240Ds. They were great cars. Someone please stop me before I buy another Thanks, Tom Hargrave www.kegkits.com 256-656-1924 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Brodbeck Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 1:40 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D Jim Cathey wrote: The blower motors run a long time before they fail... Especially if, knowing the car's weakness, you turn them off as soon as ram air can take over. Wow, that brings back memories. I used to do that in my Volvo 240. That's another car with a hard-to-get-at blower -- the dash top doesn't have to come out, but almost every other part of the dash and center console does: http://www.gull.us/auto/heater-blower/blower1.jpg Took me about six hours, not counting breaks. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Why? I have a 76 300D and highly recommend one. Randy -Original Message- Now, with all of this talk about 115 bodies, I kind of miss my 220D 240Ds. They were great cars. Someone please stop me before I buy another Thanks, Tom Hargrave
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
The blower was fully tested and reconditioned with assistance from BiL. He also helped with the install. For the $5 it cost for the part, I saved $395 over retail. Worth the price to me. On Nov 6, 2006, at 4:33 AM, Chris Kueny wrote: Why would you spend 10-12 hours to install a used part? Wouldn't it make more sense to install a tested but new part? How pissed would you bee two weeks later when you have to do it again. Even if the PnP guy gave you a refund. Chris Kueny ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) 78 Chevy Custom deluxe '85 300TD '02 Subaru Outback '07 Honda 50hp outboard Redghost opined: . Shop time is 10-12 hours.That is why I did it myself. Not worth $1200 to me for the dealer to do it. Blower is a $400 part new. Find a PnP spare to install. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
[MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Beside all the normal slow to accelerate stuff, what is the general concessis of those who have driven and owned 115 chassis 220Ds as HIGHWAY cars. I have a real nice one I have come across well maintained, standard, low rust, relatively low miles all records ect for low dollars. What are the bad actors on the car please. I have only messed with 123 chassis 240D and 300D non turbo stuf. You thoughts please. Regards Tom Scordato 1979 240D
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
If the blower motor fails, either only drive in good weather or scrap the car - replacement is a bear. The whole car is built around it. Otherwise, watch out for cancerous rust (it spreads pretty quickly), and the steering wheel is a -little- too high to drive with your knees. Does yours have cruise control? Otherwise, the 115s are excellent highway cars. Not quite as excellent as 124s or 126s, but I'll admit that I miss my 74 240D. On 11/5/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Beside all the normal slow to accelerate stuff, what is the general concessis of those who have driven and owned 115 chassis 220Ds as HIGHWAY cars. I have a real nice one I have come across well maintained, standard, low rust, relatively low miles all records ect for low dollars. What are the bad actors on the car please. I have only messed with 123 chassis 240D and 300D non turbo stuf. You thoughts please. Regards Tom Scordato 1979 240D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Sunil asked: does it have cruise control, no cruise, no AC in it, no power steering. Heat and fan works. Four on the floor. Simple simple... Bad actor seems to be fan/blower motor If blower goes, is it a DIY project and about how many hours of laor minus my swearing time... Regards Tom - Original Message - From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 10:01 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D If the blower motor fails, either only drive in good weather or scrap the car - replacement is a bear. The whole car is built around it. Otherwise, watch out for cancerous rust (it spreads pretty quickly), and the steering wheel is a -little- too high to drive with your knees. Does yours have cruise control? Otherwise, the 115s are excellent highway cars. Not quite as excellent as 124s or 126s, but I'll admit that I miss my 74 240D. On 11/5/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Beside all the normal slow to accelerate stuff, what is the general concessis of those who have driven and owned 115 chassis 220Ds as HIGHWAY cars. I have a real nice one I have come across well maintained, standard, low rust, relatively low miles all records ect for low dollars. What are the bad actors on the car please. I have only messed with 123 chassis 240D and 300D non turbo stuf. You thoughts please. Regards Tom Scordato 1979 240D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
They feel a bit breathless at highway speeds due to the low gearing (84 mph is the top speed with an auto, you might get a couple more mph out of a standard). A long trip on the interstate might be tiring, but they DO go forever on fuel, usually in the mid 30's on the road. I used to drive mine (when it ran) for three weeks on a tank of fuel to and from work. They are SLOW on acceleration, you should drive it a bit before you buy it, it can get quite scary of you forget. You will spend quite a bit of time with your foot to the floor in normal traffic. Peter
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
On a blower motor, the book gives a shop time of 20 hours of labor. If you go through the speaker hole in the dash, -supposedly- this cuts it to 8-10 hours. And you'll mangle your hands. Plan on an entire weekend. Those silly Germans built the car around the blower motor. They fixed this in the 123 and subsequent cars. On 11/5/06, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: They feel a bit breathless at highway speeds due to the low gearing (84 mph is the top speed with an auto, you might get a couple more mph out of a standard). A long trip on the interstate might be tiring, but they DO go forever on fuel, usually in the mid 30's on the road. I used to drive mine (when it ran) for three weeks on a tank of fuel to and from work. They are SLOW on acceleration, you should drive it a bit before you buy it, it can get quite scary of you forget. You will spend quite a bit of time with your foot to the floor in normal traffic. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Beside all the normal slow to accelerate stuff, what is the general consensus of those who have driven and owned 115 chassis 220Ds as HIGHWAY cars. I think they'd make a real nice highway car. A dead blower motor then makes no difference, because they have a good ram air supply. Having driven a 123 240D auto, and my 115 200D manual, I think I'd be happy with it so long as it was not an automatic! The 200D, though a bit sluggish, is _nothing_ like the slug the 240D was, and can even merge onto the freeway at something approximating the speed limit on our local (short) on-ramp. Of course you'd want cruise control on a highway beast, but it can be retrofitted, with some work. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
What are the bad actors on the car please. Bad stuff? Cancerous rust, it's prone to rusting due to many crevices and (I believe) no galvanizing. Changing the oil is messy, it (probably) predates the topsider sucker tube, and the oil filter is the all-over-your-arm from the bottom type. And, of course, the blower motor. It's very DIY, just plan on it taking a lot of time. You have to remove the dashboard, and that takes some doing. Best not to be needing the car for a week or so while you do it, though I hear it can be done in a long weekend. If you ask me, the 115 is an excellent car, and is probably one of the reasons that MB gained such a good reputation. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Jim, Since you mentioned the oil filter - there is one other item you need to watch for. There should be a plastic assembly inside the filter housing along with the main replaceable filter. The assembly is the actual primary filter the replaceable filter is a bypass filter. You are supposed to clean the main filter with kerosene re-install it along with the replacement filter. Later Mercedes diesels replaced this filter with the taller drop in filter with 2 elements, the top paper pleated section for engine oil the lower mat section for bypass filtering. Problem is the main filter has been discarded in some older Mercedes by owners oil changers because they don't understand what it is. And without this filter in place to take up the space in the filter housing, the bypass filter floats around in the housing and your engine oil gets no filtering at all! Also, stay away from Fram filters for newer Mercedes diesels. Their filters have pleated paper elements in both sections, making the bypass filter 100% worthless causing your idle oil pressure to run lower. Thanks, Tom Hargrave www.kegkits.com 256-656-1924 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 10:44 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D What are the bad actors on the car please. Bad stuff? Cancerous rust, it's prone to rusting due to many crevices and (I believe) no galvanizing. Changing the oil is messy, it (probably) predates the topsider sucker tube, and the oil filter is the all-over-your-arm from the bottom type. And, of course, the blower motor. It's very DIY, just plan on it taking a lot of time. You have to remove the dashboard, and that takes some doing. Best not to be needing the car for a week or so while you do it, though I hear it can be done in a long weekend. If you ask me, the 115 is an excellent car, and is probably one of the reasons that MB gained such a good reputation. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] 115 chassis 220D Peek a boo
Now the next bother. Anyone around Portland Oreg. who could look at this car and take her for a test drive before I comit to drive it cross country. Let me know please and I will get the contact information. No power steering, and four on the floor. 0-60 in 10 minutes. Regards Tom Scordato Bellefonte PA - Original Message - From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 12:05 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D Jim, Since you mentioned the oil filter - there is one other item you need to watch for. There should be a plastic assembly inside the filter housing along with the main replaceable filter. The assembly is the actual primary filter the replaceable filter is a bypass filter. You are supposed to clean the main filter with kerosene re-install it along with the replacement filter. Later Mercedes diesels replaced this filter with the taller drop in filter with 2 elements, the top paper pleated section for engine oil the lower mat section for bypass filtering. Problem is the main filter has been discarded in some older Mercedes by owners oil changers because they don't understand what it is. And without this filter in place to take up the space in the filter housing, the bypass filter floats around in the housing and your engine oil gets no filtering at all! Also, stay away from Fram filters for newer Mercedes diesels. Their filters have pleated paper elements in both sections, making the bypass filter 100% worthless causing your idle oil pressure to run lower. Thanks, Tom Hargrave www.kegkits.com 256-656-1924 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 10:44 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D What are the bad actors on the car please. Bad stuff? Cancerous rust, it's prone to rusting due to many crevices and (I believe) no galvanizing. Changing the oil is messy, it (probably) predates the topsider sucker tube, and the oil filter is the all-over-your-arm from the bottom type. And, of course, the blower motor. It's very DIY, just plan on it taking a lot of time. You have to remove the dashboard, and that takes some doing. Best not to be needing the car for a week or so while you do it, though I hear it can be done in a long weekend. If you ask me, the 115 is an excellent car, and is probably one of the reasons that MB gained such a good reputation. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Pete said: They are SLOW on acceleration, you should drive it a bit before you buy it, it can get quite scary of you forget. You will spend quite a bit of time with your foot to the floor in normal traffic.ete said Sounds like my automatic 123 240D for shure so I am used to that, a real speed demond - Original Message - From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 10:03 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D They feel a bit breathless at highway speeds due to the low gearing (84 mph is the top speed with an auto, you might get a couple more mph out of a standard). A long trip on the interstate might be tiring, but they DO go forever on fuel, usually in the mid 30's on the road. I used to drive mine (when it ran) for three weeks on a tank of fuel to and from work. They are SLOW on acceleration, you should drive it a bit before you buy it, it can get quite scary of you forget. You will spend quite a bit of time with your foot to the floor in normal traffic. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE- Hash: SHA1 I am not certain how they differ, but my 1974 240D is an excellent highway car. Fuel economy is impressive, and it gets up and cruises all day at 75mph with no problems. It also has very little wind noise, and feels very stable. When climbing steep grades, the speed goes down drastically, and I have to be somewhat easy on it to keep from pegging the temp gauge. I just drove mine from Corvallis, OR to Crescent City, CA and back a month ago, and it worked excellent. If you need to cruise over 75mph, go the speed limit up hills, or hit the speed limit before the end of the onramp it may not be your ideal car. Tyler Backman On Nov 5, 2006, at 4:19 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Beside all the normal slow to accelerate stuff, what is the general concessis of those who have driven and owned 115 chassis 220Ds as HIGHWAY cars. I have a real nice one I have come across well maintained, standard, low rust, relatively low miles all records ect for low dollars. What are the bad actors on the car please. I have only messed with 123 chassis 240D and 300D non turbo stuf. You thoughts please. Regards Tom Scordato 1979 240D -BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE- Version: GnuPG v1.4.5 (Darwin) iD8DBQFFTmmTt178NxI/higRArssAJ4zRgmIFiQ39lnSvZUqROUv3XhLjACfaI1H 663hXny95oehGvxfT3x70FY= =bc3O -END PGP SIGNATURE-
Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
I loved driving my 220D (1970) on the highway. I think I got around 30 MPG. I think the 115 is a better highway driver than the 123 series - the 107 shares a lot of the suspension. I think mine had power steering. The AC was after market, and I removed it to gain better access to the alternator. I have replaced the fan on two 115 cars - the first by the book. 20 hours is a good estimate - though I think it took me longer, I did it in one weekend. The second one was through the speaker hole - about half the time - one long day. Mine had the manual tranny - four on the column. Rust killed it (it's first 100K were as a daily driver in MN). I don't remember it being any slower than a 240D - but there were a lot of years between driving the two --- -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
