Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
Peter, Thanks - this is a keeper for me. I've really GOT to get my '95 on the road, so that I can do the rear suspension on my wagon. -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Peter Frederick Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 5:38 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe The 126 is the same as the 123 except for the size. Same mounts, etc, same hassles. The W124 is completely different -- multilink suspension (and you probably need to replace them all) plus four subframe mounts, two front and two rear (not the same). It can be done by jacking up the rear and dropping one side at a time, then using a puller/pusher to remove and install the mounts. Diff is held on by two steel and rubber inserts in the subframe at the rear and a pair of rubber mounts between plates up front. Rear mounts must be removed to the front (they are tapered and won't come out the back) and they are always very stuck. Best course is to use an air chisel to collapse the steel ring to get them out, then pull the new ones in. You can hang the diff on a jack while you are doing this and leave the axles installed. This is a job I was going to tackle on the old 300D when it got smashed, and will be doing next month on the new one (and an evaporator transplant, oh joy!) Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
Are we talking W124 or W126 here? On the W124, you use a piece of pipe and the bolt (with a nut and washer and plate) to pull the mount out of the subframe. Once goes in the top, one goes in the bottom. Ditto going back in. On the W126/W123/W115, the mount comes out the bottom, they usually fall out, not a problem. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
Thx Loren - my '91 300D just turned 176K so it's time for me to inspect things around the rear end - LarryT OilAnalysis Time? Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters? www.youroil.net -- From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 11:43 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe My 87 300 D had the lower wheel carrier bushing totally crapped out at 160K By 180k the links were going bad. About how long does it take to go thru the rear suspension bushings/etc? (on the 124). thx LarryT 91 300D OilAnalysis Time? Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters? www.youroil.net -- From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 5:37 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe The 126 is the same as the 123 except for the size. Same mounts, etc, same hassles. The W124 is completely different -- multilink suspension (and you probably need to replace them all) plus four subframe mounts, two front and two rear (not the same). It can be done by jacking up the rear and dropping one side at a time, then using a puller/pusher to remove and install the mounts. Diff is held on by two steel and rubber inserts in the subframe at the rear and a pair of rubber mounts between plates up front. Rear mounts must be removed to the front (they are tapered and won't come out the back) and they are always very stuck. Best course is to use an air chisel to collapse the steel ring to get them out, then pull the new ones in. You can hang the diff on a jack while you are doing this and leave the axles installed. This is a job I was going to tackle on the old 300D when it got smashed, and will be doing next month on the new one (and an evaporator transplant, oh joy!) Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
Biggest thing to notice is the camber of the rear tires or any squirrelyness in handling Thx Loren - my '91 300D just turned 176K so it's time for me to inspect things around the rear end - LarryT OilAnalysis Time? Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters? www.youroil.net -- From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 11:43 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe My 87 300 D had the lower wheel carrier bushing totally crapped out at 160K By 180k the links were going bad. About how long does it take to go thru the rear suspension bushings/etc? (on the 124). thx LarryT 91 300D OilAnalysis Time? Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters? www.youroil.net -- From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 5:37 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe The 126 is the same as the 123 except for the size. Same mounts, etc, same hassles. The W124 is completely different -- multilink suspension (and you probably need to replace them all) plus four subframe mounts, two front and two rear (not the same). It can be done by jacking up the rear and dropping one side at a time, then using a puller/pusher to remove and install the mounts. Diff is held on by two steel and rubber inserts in the subframe at the rear and a pair of rubber mounts between plates up front. Rear mounts must be removed to the front (they are tapered and won't come out the back) and they are always very stuck. Best course is to use an air chisel to collapse the steel ring to get them out, then pull the new ones in. You can hang the diff on a jack while you are doing this and leave the axles installed. This is a job I was going to tackle on the old 300D when it got smashed, and will be doing next month on the new one (and an evaporator transplant, oh joy!) Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
The tires were just replaced and wear was even -- Are there any bushings that are easy to replace without pulling everything apart? Or is it not practical to do things a little at a time? thx - LarryT OilAnalysis Time? Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters? www.youroil.net -- From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 9:17 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe Biggest thing to notice is the camber of the rear tires or any squirrelyness in handling Thx Loren - my '91 300D just turned 176K so it's time for me to inspect things around the rear end - LarryT OilAnalysis Time? Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters? www.youroil.net -- From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 11:43 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe My 87 300 D had the lower wheel carrier bushing totally crapped out at 160K By 180k the links were going bad. About how long does it take to go thru the rear suspension bushings/etc? (on the 124). thx LarryT 91 300D OilAnalysis Time? Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters? www.youroil.net -- From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 5:37 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe The 126 is the same as the 123 except for the size. Same mounts, etc, same hassles. The W124 is completely different -- multilink suspension (and you probably need to replace them all) plus four subframe mounts, two front and two rear (not the same). It can be done by jacking up the rear and dropping one side at a time, then using a puller/pusher to remove and install the mounts. Diff is held on by two steel and rubber inserts in the subframe at the rear and a pair of rubber mounts between plates up front. Rear mounts must be removed to the front (they are tapered and won't come out the back) and they are always very stuck. Best course is to use an air chisel to collapse the steel ring to get them out, then pull the new ones in. You can hang the diff on a jack while you are doing this and leave the axles installed. This is a job I was going to tackle on the old 300D when it got smashed, and will be doing next month on the new one (and an evaporator transplant, oh joy!) Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
If your rear tires are wearing evenly, just keep an eye on it every 6 months or so. No use doing anything when it is all working correctly. The common advice is to replace everything at once, then it should be good for another 15-20 years or so. The tires were just replaced and wear was even -- Are there any bushings that are easy to replace without pulling everything apart? Or is it not practical to do things a little at a time? thx - LarryT OilAnalysis Time? Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters? www.youroil.net -- From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 9:17 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe Biggest thing to notice is the camber of the rear tires or any squirrelyness in handling Thx Loren - my '91 300D just turned 176K so it's time for me to inspect things around the rear end - LarryT OilAnalysis Time? Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters? www.youroil.net -- From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 11:43 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe My 87 300 D had the lower wheel carrier bushing totally crapped out at 160K By 180k the links were going bad. About how long does it take to go thru the rear suspension bushings/etc? (on the 124). thx LarryT 91 300D OilAnalysis Time? Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters? www.youroil.net -- From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 5:37 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe The 126 is the same as the 123 except for the size. Same mounts, etc, same hassles. The W124 is completely different -- multilink suspension (and you probably need to replace them all) plus four subframe mounts, two front and two rear (not the same). It can be done by jacking up the rear and dropping one side at a time, then using a puller/pusher to remove and install the mounts. Diff is held on by two steel and rubber inserts in the subframe at the rear and a pair of rubber mounts between plates up front. Rear mounts must be removed to the front (they are tapered and won't come out the back) and they are always very stuck. Best course is to use an air chisel to collapse the steel ring to get them out, then pull the new ones in. You can hang the diff on a jack while you are doing this and leave the axles installed. This is a job I was going to tackle on the old 300D when it got smashed, and will be doing next month on the new one (and an evaporator transplant, oh joy!) Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
Peter Frederick wrote: Check the frame bushings on the rear anti-sway bar too -- when they get old, hard, and shrink, the bar rattles in them. I can attest to this as well! If they get really bad it almost sounds like metal on metal rattling. John ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
I've had a couple of collapsed engine mounts. One was brand new from dealer when i installed the factory crate engine in a 115. I spent weeks looking for that rattling noise till I finally looked at the new mount! It is the sound of metal hammering on metal - either at idle, or under acceleration, depending on which side broke. On Sun, Feb 21, 2010 at 10:18 AM, John Robbins je...@msstate.edu wrote: Peter Frederick wrote: Check the frame bushings on the rear anti-sway bar too -- when they get old, hard, and shrink, the bar rattles in them. I can attest to this as well! If they get really bad it almost sounds like metal on metal rattling. John -- OK Don Panic! (the national past time). ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
When one of my W124 MMs failed it was a metal on metal hammering - as you described - very annoying! It only hammered at speeds above ~30mph but it truly got on our nerves! Fun stuff - LarryT OilAnalysis Time? Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters? www.youroil.net -- From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 3:22 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe I've had a couple of collapsed engine mounts. One was brand new from dealer when i installed the factory crate engine in a 115. I spent weeks looking for that rattling noise till I finally looked at the new mount! It is the sound of metal hammering on metal - either at idle, or under acceleration, depending on which side broke. On Sun, Feb 21, 2010 at 10:18 AM, John Robbins je...@msstate.edu wrote: Peter Frederick wrote: Check the frame bushings on the rear anti-sway bar too -- when they get old, hard, and shrink, the bar rattles in them. I can attest to this as well! If they get really bad it almost sounds like metal on metal rattling. John -- OK Don Panic! (the national past time). ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
Short bit of PVC pipe and a metal plate will do coming out, you need some washers and probably the correct sized pipe to pull the new ones in. There are MB tools, but you can improvise. Key point is to push on the housing going in, not the inner part so you don't run the risk of tearing the rubber (the front ones are gel filled now). They are much like the front subframe bushing on the W115/W107. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
Are there threaded holes for pulling? On the 123 i didn't see any way to pull the old bushing. Could you give me some dimensions/sketches so I could build the puller and pusher tools ahead of time? Thanks! Short bit of PVC pipe and a metal plate will do coming out, you need some washers and probably the correct sized pipe to pull the new ones in. There are MB tools, but you can improvise. Key point is to push on the housing going in, not the inner part so you don't run the risk of tearing the rubber (the front ones are gel filled now). They are much like the front subframe bushing on the W115/W107. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
There are special tools for that - my attempt at making a tool to remove the locking ring by grinding down an old socket was a total failure. Using the proper tool made it simple. On Sun, Feb 21, 2010 at 6:26 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: Are there threaded holes for pulling? On the 123 i didn't see any way to pull the old bushing. Could you give me some dimensions/sketches so I could build the puller and pusher tools ahead of time? Thanks! -- OK Don Panic! (the national past time). ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
I have not yet made the tools myself -- you should probably get the new bushings and see what you need from there. I'm hoping to get them done next month. They are held in with a bolt through the center part into the frame, so there are no threaded holes. Front and rear are not the same, so you may need two pullers. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
so how can you pull the bushings if there is nothing to attach to? Sounds like the old big screwdriver is a way to go. I'll be interested to hear how you do it. I looked on Dave M's website, but I didn't find any info or pictures about pullers or technique. Lots of stuff about sportline bushings vs standard. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
Any special tools, tricks, or techniques to change the rear subframe mounts on a 124? thinking about doing that sometime in the next month or so. I need to do the same on the 126 also. I did them on the 123 and survived. But that one was rusty enough that it took a 6 foot pipe on the breaker bar for the big bolts. Same question for the 126. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
I can't speak for the 124, but if you've done a 123, you should be OK for a 126. Just get a big breaker bar and some soapy water. If you soap the new bushings up good they'll slip right in. I don't believe I need to explain the breaker bar. Dan --- On Sat, 2/20/10, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com Subject: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Date: Saturday, February 20, 2010, 12:54 PM Any special tools, tricks, or techniques to change the rear subframe mounts on a 124? thinking about doing that sometime in the next month or so. I need to do the same on the 126 also. I did them on the 123 and survived. But that one was rusty enough that it took a 6 foot pipe on the breaker bar for the big bolts. Same question for the 126. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
What are the symptoms of needing new rear subframe bushings on a W123? A lot of rattling noises? Allan -- 1983 300D LWB250 lwb...@yahoo.com writes: I can't speak for the 124, but if you've done a 123, you should be OK for a 126. Just get a big breaker bar and some soapy water. If you soap the new bushings up good they'll slip right in. I don't believe I need to explain the breaker bar. Dan -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
Possibly, but more likely than not the ride height is diminished. If you're picking things to replace in the rear suspension on a 123 or 126, my first pick would be the differential mount. After that, subframe bushings. Both pretty easy and inexpensive updates/repairs, for the most part. The subframe bushings can be a b*tch to do sometimes, especially on northern cars due to snow/salt corroding the bolts. Lots of brute force required on that one in many cases. Dan --- On Sat, 2/20/10, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote: From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Date: Saturday, February 20, 2010, 4:33 PM What are the symptoms of needing new rear subframe bushings on a W123? A lot of rattling noises? Allan -- 1983 300D LWB250 lwb...@yahoo.com writes: I can't speak for the 124, but if you've done a 123, you should be OK for a 126. Just get a big breaker bar and some soapy water. If you soap the new bushings up good they'll slip right in. I don't believe I need to explain the breaker bar. Dan -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
The 126 is the same as the 123 except for the size. Same mounts, etc, same hassles. The W124 is completely different -- multilink suspension (and you probably need to replace them all) plus four subframe mounts, two front and two rear (not the same). It can be done by jacking up the rear and dropping one side at a time, then using a puller/pusher to remove and install the mounts. Diff is held on by two steel and rubber inserts in the subframe at the rear and a pair of rubber mounts between plates up front. Rear mounts must be removed to the front (they are tapered and won't come out the back) and they are always very stuck. Best course is to use an air chisel to collapse the steel ring to get them out, then pull the new ones in. You can hang the diff on a jack while you are doing this and leave the axles installed. This is a job I was going to tackle on the old 300D when it got smashed, and will be doing next month on the new one (and an evaporator transplant, oh joy!) Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
rattling is the torsion bar links. they are cheap and easy to replace. Subframe mounts worn leads to squirrely cornering, like you have rear steering What are the symptoms of needing new rear subframe bushings on a W123? A lot of rattling noises? Allan -- 1983 300D LWB250 lwb...@yahoo.com writes: I can't speak for the 124, but if you've done a 123, you should be OK for a 126. Just get a big breaker bar and some soapy water. If you soap the new bushings up good they'll slip right in. I don't believe I need to explain the breaker bar. Dan -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com writes: rattling is the torsion bar links. they are cheap and easy to replace. I replaced mine a few years ago. How long do they normally last? Allan -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
Check the frame bushings on the rear anti-sway bar too -- when they get old, hard, and shrink, the bar rattles in them. Bad bushings on the rear subframe usually allow it to rotate up at the front, this causes rear tire wear and goofy up and down behavior of the rear suspension. Peter -Original Message- From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu Sent: Feb 20, 2010 8:01 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com writes: rattling is the torsion bar links. they are cheap and easy to replace. I replaced mine a few years ago. How long do they normally last? Allan -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
About how long does it take to go thru the rear suspension bushings/etc? (on the 124). thx LarryT 91 300D OilAnalysis Time? Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters? www.youroil.net -- From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 5:37 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe The 126 is the same as the 123 except for the size. Same mounts, etc, same hassles. The W124 is completely different -- multilink suspension (and you probably need to replace them all) plus four subframe mounts, two front and two rear (not the same). It can be done by jacking up the rear and dropping one side at a time, then using a puller/pusher to remove and install the mounts. Diff is held on by two steel and rubber inserts in the subframe at the rear and a pair of rubber mounts between plates up front. Rear mounts must be removed to the front (they are tapered and won't come out the back) and they are always very stuck. Best course is to use an air chisel to collapse the steel ring to get them out, then pull the new ones in. You can hang the diff on a jack while you are doing this and leave the axles installed. This is a job I was going to tackle on the old 300D when it got smashed, and will be doing next month on the new one (and an evaporator transplant, oh joy!) Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
My 87 300 D had the lower wheel carrier bushing totally crapped out at 160K By 180k the links were going bad. About how long does it take to go thru the rear suspension bushings/etc? (on the 124). thx LarryT 91 300D OilAnalysis Time? Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters? www.youroil.net -- From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 5:37 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe The 126 is the same as the 123 except for the size. Same mounts, etc, same hassles. The W124 is completely different -- multilink suspension (and you probably need to replace them all) plus four subframe mounts, two front and two rear (not the same). It can be done by jacking up the rear and dropping one side at a time, then using a puller/pusher to remove and install the mounts. Diff is held on by two steel and rubber inserts in the subframe at the rear and a pair of rubber mounts between plates up front. Rear mounts must be removed to the front (they are tapered and won't come out the back) and they are always very stuck. Best course is to use an air chisel to collapse the steel ring to get them out, then pull the new ones in. You can hang the diff on a jack while you are doing this and leave the axles installed. This is a job I was going to tackle on the old 300D when it got smashed, and will be doing next month on the new one (and an evaporator transplant, oh joy!) Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe
Thanks Peter. I was hoping the 124 subframe bushings could be replaced without having to drop the whole subframe out. Sounds like that is do-able. What is the pusher/puller tool you refer to? Is it a tool with an MB part number? Is it something that can be shop-made? On the 123, I used the armstrong tool and a big screwdriver to pull them out. I think I used a BFH to seat the new ones far enough to get the bolts started, then tightened the bolts until everything bottomed out. The 126 is the same as the 123 except for the size. Same mounts, etc, same hassles. The W124 is completely different -- multilink suspension (and you probably need to replace them all) plus four subframe mounts, two front and two rear (not the same). It can be done by jacking up the rear and dropping one side at a time, then using a puller/pusher to remove and install the mounts. Diff is held on by two steel and rubber inserts in the subframe at the rear and a pair of rubber mounts between plates up front. Rear mounts must be removed to the front (they are tapered and won't come out the back) and they are always very stuck. Best course is to use an air chisel to collapse the steel ring to get them out, then pull the new ones in. You can hang the diff on a jack while you are doing this and leave the axles installed. This is a job I was going to tackle on the old 300D when it got smashed, and will be doing next month on the new one (and an evaporator transplant, oh joy!) Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
