Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush

2021-11-20 Thread Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes
Yeah I need to CHANGE THE FUSES to get the fans working 

Draining the dishwasher detergent tomorrow will run done clean water through 
then some CA

--FT
Sent from iFōn

> On Nov 20, 2021, at 6:47 PM, David Bruckmann via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> As Jaime mentioned, laundry detergent is best. And I recall when this was a
> topic during Dr. Booth's presence on this list, a key point was to seek out
> so-called "HE" (high efficiency) detergent intended for front-loading
> washers. It is the least "foamy". Not sure if that still matters, with the
> current ubiquity of front-loaders in the US.
> 
> I can't see why it would need to be powder. The key point is that it
> circulate and clean. I would think it would be important to RINSE very
> thoroughly.
> 
> AND DON'T FORGET TO CHANGE YOUR FUSES!
> 
> D.
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush

2021-11-20 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
You can still get powder detergent, at least my local Target carries it, I know 
because I recently bought a box of Tide powder to try it on some grease-stained 
shirts. It seems to me that it does a better job on grease stains than the 
liquid detergent. I now use it for kitchen towels and any clothing with grease 
spots.

Allan


On Sat, Nov 20, 2021, at 10:04 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
> OK thanks.  Don't want anything too foamy I guess, I don't have any 
> powder detergent, can you even buy that stuff anymore?  I think I have 
> some Spic n Span but that is not really detergent, it's mostly TSP?
> 
> --FT
> 
> On 11/20/21 9:56 AM, mitch--- via Mercedes wrote:
> > On 2021-11-20 09:16, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
> >> I bought some citric acid to flush out the 95E320 today, I just put
> >> new radiator hoses on it and there is some oily sludge in the system
> >> (yes, head gasket probably going bad).  How much should I use to flush
> >> out the system?  Mix it in some water and put it in the tank to
> >> circulate, then drain and flush with clean water again?
> >
> > I believe it was a kilo, but it seems like a pound should be adequate.
> > The citric acid is for hard water deposits and the like.
> > Tide powder might be better for degreasing.
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> -- 
> --FT
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush

2021-11-20 Thread David Bruckmann via Mercedes
As Jaime mentioned, laundry detergent is best. And I recall when this was a
topic during Dr. Booth's presence on this list, a key point was to seek out
so-called "HE" (high efficiency) detergent intended for front-loading
washers. It is the least "foamy". Not sure if that still matters, with the
current ubiquity of front-loaders in the US.

I can't see why it would need to be powder. The key point is that it
circulate and clean. I would think it would be important to RINSE very
thoroughly.

AND DON'T FORGET TO CHANGE YOUR FUSES!

D.
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush

2021-11-20 Thread Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes
I went to the local hardware store and the guy there said they used to have it, 
for cleaning water softeners. But he couldn’t find any so I ordered a 5lb bag 
from Bozos. It will be interesting to see what it does. 

I put some dishwasher detergent in and warmed the engine and drove it a bit. 
Temp is kinda bouncing around 80-100C, I noticed the electric fans are not 
kicking on so will need to see what that’s about. I was thinking maybe the 
thermostat but that’s probably ok. 

I also noticed that the overflow fitting on top of the radiator was spewing, a 
little plastic elbow held on with metal tabs that fits into a hole in the top 
of the radiator. The metal tabs are loose. What a POS design. I guess that’s 
where the coolant was going, aside from the failing radiator hose. I’ll have to 
see what that’s about too. 

Ugh. 

--FT
Sent from iFōn

> On Nov 20, 2021, at 12:02 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
>  Doesn't everybody have citric acid in stock? ;)
> I bought 5# back in 2012, 1-3 tbsp per gallon of hot water makes a great 
> cleaner/deruster. I use it for cleaning lantern parts often. I bought another 
> 5# this year but haven't broken in to it yet. Looks like its $26 for 5# on 
> Amazon.
> 
> -Curt
> 
>On Saturday, November 20, 2021, 10:38:16 AM EST, dan penoff.com via 
> Mercedes  wrote:  
> 
> For what it’s worth, powdered lemon or lemonade drink mix works, too, just be 
> sure it doesn’t have sugar in it. I use it to clean appliances like 
> dishwashers and washing machines.
> 
> -D
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Nov 20, 2021, at 8:05 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> OK thanks.  Don't want anything too foamy I guess, I don't have any powder 
>> detergent, can you even buy that stuff anymore?  I think I have some Spic n 
>> Span but that is not really detergent, it's mostly TSP?
>> 
>> --FT
>> 
>>> On 11/20/21 9:56 AM, mitch--- via Mercedes wrote:
> On 2021-11-20 09:16, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
> I bought some citric acid to flush out the 95E320 today, I just put
> new radiator hoses on it and there is some oily sludge in the system
> (yes, head gasket probably going bad).  How much should I use to flush
> out the system?  Mix it in some water and put it in the tank to
> circulate, then drain and flush with clean water again?
>>> 
>>> I believe it was a kilo, but it seems like a pound should be adequate.
>>> The citric acid is for hard water deposits and the like.
>>> Tide powder might be better for degreasing.
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>> 
>> -- 
>> --FT
>> ___
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>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush

2021-11-20 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 Doesn't everybody have citric acid in stock? ;)
I bought 5# back in 2012, 1-3 tbsp per gallon of hot water makes a great 
cleaner/deruster. I use it for cleaning lantern parts often. I bought another 
5# this year but haven't broken in to it yet. Looks like its $26 for 5# on 
Amazon.

-Curt

On Saturday, November 20, 2021, 10:38:16 AM EST, dan penoff.com via 
Mercedes  wrote:  
 
 For what it’s worth, powdered lemon or lemonade drink mix works, too, just be 
sure it doesn’t have sugar in it. I use it to clean appliances like dishwashers 
and washing machines.

-D

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 20, 2021, at 8:05 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> OK thanks.  Don't want anything too foamy I guess, I don't have any powder 
> detergent, can you even buy that stuff anymore?  I think I have some Spic n 
> Span but that is not really detergent, it's mostly TSP?
> 
> --FT
> 
>> On 11/20/21 9:56 AM, mitch--- via Mercedes wrote:
>>> On 2021-11-20 09:16, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
>>> I bought some citric acid to flush out the 95E320 today, I just put
>>> new radiator hoses on it and there is some oily sludge in the system
>>> (yes, head gasket probably going bad).  How much should I use to flush
>>> out the system?  Mix it in some water and put it in the tank to
>>> circulate, then drain and flush with clean water again?
>> 
>> I believe it was a kilo, but it seems like a pound should be adequate.
>> The citric acid is for hard water deposits and the like.
>> Tide powder might be better for degreasing.
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> -- 
> --FT
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush

2021-11-20 Thread Floyd Thursby via Mercedes

and the engine would smell lemony fresh!

--FT

On 11/20/21 10:37 AM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes wrote:

For what it’s worth, powdered lemon or lemonade drink mix works, too, just be 
sure it doesn’t have sugar in it. I use it to clean appliances like dishwashers 
and washing machines.

-D

Sent from my iPad


On Nov 20, 2021, at 8:05 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes  
wrote:

OK thanks.  Don't want anything too foamy I guess, I don't have any powder 
detergent, can you even buy that stuff anymore?  I think I have some Spic n 
Span but that is not really detergent, it's mostly TSP?

--FT


On 11/20/21 9:56 AM, mitch--- via Mercedes wrote:

On 2021-11-20 09:16, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
I bought some citric acid to flush out the 95E320 today, I just put
new radiator hoses on it and there is some oily sludge in the system
(yes, head gasket probably going bad).  How much should I use to flush
out the system?  Mix it in some water and put it in the tank to
circulate, then drain and flush with clean water again?

I believe it was a kilo, but it seems like a pound should be adequate.
The citric acid is for hard water deposits and the like.
Tide powder might be better for degreasing.

___
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--
--FT
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--FT
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush

2021-11-20 Thread dan penoff.com via Mercedes
For what it’s worth, powdered lemon or lemonade drink mix works, too, just be 
sure it doesn’t have sugar in it. I use it to clean appliances like dishwashers 
and washing machines.

-D

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 20, 2021, at 8:05 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> OK thanks.  Don't want anything too foamy I guess, I don't have any powder 
> detergent, can you even buy that stuff anymore?  I think I have some Spic n 
> Span but that is not really detergent, it's mostly TSP?
> 
> --FT
> 
>> On 11/20/21 9:56 AM, mitch--- via Mercedes wrote:
>>> On 2021-11-20 09:16, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
>>> I bought some citric acid to flush out the 95E320 today, I just put
>>> new radiator hoses on it and there is some oily sludge in the system
>>> (yes, head gasket probably going bad).  How much should I use to flush
>>> out the system?  Mix it in some water and put it in the tank to
>>> circulate, then drain and flush with clean water again?
>> 
>> I believe it was a kilo, but it seems like a pound should be adequate.
>> The citric acid is for hard water deposits and the like.
>> Tide powder might be better for degreasing.
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> -- 
> --FT
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush

2021-11-20 Thread Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes
Yes, you need to de-oil the system first.  Laundry detergent is good since
it doesn’t bubble up much.


On Sat, Nov 20, 2021 at 10:05 AM Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> OK thanks.  Don't want anything too foamy I guess, I don't have any
> powder detergent, can you even buy that stuff anymore?  I think I have
> some Spic n Span but that is not really detergent, it's mostly TSP?
>
> --FT
>
> On 11/20/21 9:56 AM, mitch--- via Mercedes wrote:
> > On 2021-11-20 09:16, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
> >> I bought some citric acid to flush out the 95E320 today, I just put
> >> new radiator hoses on it and there is some oily sludge in the system
> >> (yes, head gasket probably going bad).  How much should I use to flush
> >> out the system?  Mix it in some water and put it in the tank to
> >> circulate, then drain and flush with clean water again?
> >
> > I believe it was a kilo, but it seems like a pound should be adequate.
> > The citric acid is for hard water deposits and the like.
> > Tide powder might be better for degreasing.
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> --
> --FT
> ___
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> --
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush

2021-11-20 Thread Floyd Thursby via Mercedes
OK thanks.  Don't want anything too foamy I guess, I don't have any 
powder detergent, can you even buy that stuff anymore?  I think I have 
some Spic n Span but that is not really detergent, it's mostly TSP?


--FT

On 11/20/21 9:56 AM, mitch--- via Mercedes wrote:

On 2021-11-20 09:16, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:

I bought some citric acid to flush out the 95E320 today, I just put
new radiator hoses on it and there is some oily sludge in the system
(yes, head gasket probably going bad).  How much should I use to flush
out the system?  Mix it in some water and put it in the tank to
circulate, then drain and flush with clean water again?


I believe it was a kilo, but it seems like a pound should be adequate.
The citric acid is for hard water deposits and the like.
Tide powder might be better for degreasing.

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--
--FT
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush

2021-11-20 Thread mitch--- via Mercedes

On 2021-11-20 09:16, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:

I bought some citric acid to flush out the 95E320 today, I just put
new radiator hoses on it and there is some oily sludge in the system
(yes, head gasket probably going bad).  How much should I use to flush
out the system?  Mix it in some water and put it in the tank to
circulate, then drain and flush with clean water again?


I believe it was a kilo, but it seems like a pound should be adequate.
The citric acid is for hard water deposits and the like.
Tide powder might be better for degreasing.

___
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[MBZ] Citric acid flush

2021-11-20 Thread Floyd Thursby via Mercedes
I bought some citric acid to flush out the 95E320 today, I just put new 
radiator hoses on it and there is some oily sludge in the system (yes, 
head gasket probably going bad).  How much should I use to flush out the 
system?  Mix it in some water and put it in the tank to circulate, then 
drain and flush with clean water again?


--
--FT
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Re: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush

2013-08-10 Thread Larry T

Hi Scott -
Thanks for providing this.  In expectation of doing this I tried to find 
a similar pdf for the W124 602 engine.
Didn't see this comment from the MB pdf on the de-oiling pdf you 
provided, but I found this on the 602/603 Instructions 20-0160 saying:

*Note:**
**The Oil in the cooling system has to be removed**
**if, for example, engine oil, ATF on models with**
**automatic transmissions or hydraulic fluid has got**
**into the cooling system.**
*
Which makes sense IMO . - the pdf you provided did not have this note 
and I don't know about anyone else but I for one  thought it meant 
de-oiling needed to be done as standard maintenance..


Anyway - FYI ya'll...;-)

BTW, with the comments in this thread about removing large amounts of 
rust from some cooling systems, seems like a little oil might not be a 
terrible idea?  unless it reacts somehow with the coolant?


LarryT
91 300D

On 5/31/2013 5:13 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:

Here's what the book says about de-oil (do first) and decalcify:

http://pt709.synology.me/20-015.pdf


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Max
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 4:24 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush

Ace Hardware carries that here in the Low Country...


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Re: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush

2013-05-31 Thread Rick Knoble
10% solution. At your favorite local hardware emporium if you can find this, it 
is 100% citric acid. 

http://www.summitbrands.com/summit/our_brands/water_mgmt/softner_cleaner/

Rick
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Re: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush

2013-05-31 Thread Max
Ace Hardware carries that here in the Low Country...
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:

10% solution. At your favorite local hardware emporium if you can find
this, it is 100% citric acid. 

http://www.summitbrands.com/summit/our_brands/water_mgmt/softner_cleaner/

Rick
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush

2013-05-31 Thread Scott Ritchey

Here's what the book says about de-oil (do first) and decalcify:

http://pt709.synology.me/20-015.pdf


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Max
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 4:24 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush

Ace Hardware carries that here in the Low Country...
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:

10% solution. At your favorite local hardware emporium if you can find
this, it is 100% citric acid. 

http://www.summitbrands.com/summit/our_brands/water_mgmt/softner_cleaner/

Rick
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush

2013-05-31 Thread Curt Raymond
I use it to clean the insides of old Coleman lanterns. Couldn't find any 
locally so I got on Amazon, 5# for $20 with prime shipping.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 16:24:29 -0400
From: Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush
Message-ID: a55c7870-ce0e-4799-a54d-fb7cfd266...@email.android.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Ace Hardware carries that here in the Low Country...
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:

10% solution. At your favorite local hardware emporium if you can find
this, it is 100% citric acid. 

http://www.summitbrands.com/summit/our_brands/water_mgmt/softner_cleaner/

Rick
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush - was: Heat wave

2012-07-03 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
But Philip, The output of the water pump is always directly to the engine
block... there will always be sufficient flow through the block.  The
thermostat determines how much water flows through the radiator vs the
bypass... water always flows through the engine block.

There is a good diagram of the V8s here:
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11883/PROGRAM/Engine/107/M117_45/20-005.pdf

Jaime


On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 10:31 PM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

 I don't argue that it's safe.  But it also isn't going to do a
 thorough job flushing.  The laws of hydrodynamics indicate that
 the path of least resistance will get the most flow.  And the
 path through the engine is going to have a higher resistance
 than the 6 inch bypass pipe.  Therefore most of the water will
 not go through the engine if the bypass isn't closed.

 Do whatever you want - but when I do a cooling system flush, I
 want it all cleaned out.  So I use a forced-open thermostat.

 -- Philip



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http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush - was: Heat wave

2012-07-03 Thread Fmiser
  Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  I don't argue that it's safe.  But it also isn't going to do
  a thorough job flushing.  The laws of hydrodynamics indicate
  that the path of least resistance will get the most flow.
  And the path through the engine is going to have a higher
  resistance than the 6 inch bypass pipe.  Therefore most of
  the water will not go through the engine if the bypass isn't
  closed.

 Jaime Kopchinski wrote:

 But Philip, The output of the water pump is always directly to
 the engine block... there will always be sufficient flow
 through the block.  The thermostat determines how much water
 flows through the radiator vs the bypass... water always flows
 through the engine block.

Ah.  I was describing the situation using a garden hose to
backflush.

If you are using a running engine to flush, then exchange the
word radiator for engine.  The output from the block will
mostly go through the bypass and not through the radiator.

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush - was: Heat wave

2012-07-02 Thread Fmiser
 Jaime Kopchinski wrote:

 The method in the manual really works... when you remove the
 thermostat, you get lots of flow and lots of stuff clears up.

Just for reference, since there are a lot of OM616 and OM617
motors on the list, removing the thermostat is NOT a good plan.
I don't remember the M117 so it may be a single throw - but
the diesels are a double throw design.  That is, when the path
to the radiator opens, the bypass is closed.  Simply removing
the thermostat will leave both open and will NOT WORK
correctly.  For these, you must use a modified thermostat that
is jammed open.  I used a piece of brake line split and the
wrapped around the center shaft to hold it open.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush - was: Heat wave

2012-07-02 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
While its true that you should never run one of these engines without a
thermostat under normal use, its part of the standard procedure when
cleaning the cooling system for both early M116/M117 and OM617 engines.

See Job 20-015 of the OM617 manual for example:
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/Engine/617/20-015.pdf

Job 20-015 from the M117 manual:
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11883/PROGRAM/Engine/107/M117_45/20-015.pdf

I have seen this special open thermostat mentioned in manuals also, but I
can't recall for which models... perhaps only newer cars?  It could be
necessary because sealing of the termostat house isn't possible without
something taking up the space in some engines?

Anyway, running without a thermostat for the purpose of flushing is
perfectly safe.  You'll be watching the temperature the whole time and
purging the system is air is very easy.

Jaime


On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 2:39 PM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

  Jaime Kopchinski wrote:

  The method in the manual really works... when you remove the
  thermostat, you get lots of flow and lots of stuff clears up.

 Just for reference, since there are a lot of OM616 and OM617
 motors on the list, removing the thermostat is NOT a good plan.
 I don't remember the M117 so it may be a single throw - but
 the diesels are a double throw design.  That is, when the path
 to the radiator opens, the bypass is closed.  Simply removing
 the thermostat will leave both open and will NOT WORK
 correctly.  For these, you must use a modified thermostat that
 is jammed open.  I used a piece of brake line split and the
 wrapped around the center shaft to hold it open.

 --   Philip

 ___
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Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush - was: Heat wave

2012-07-02 Thread Craig
On Mon, 2 Jul 2012 15:42:01 -0400 Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com
wrote:

 While its true that you should never run one of these engines without a
 thermostat under normal use, its part of the standard procedure when
 cleaning the cooling system for both early M116/M117 and OM617 engines.
 
 See Job 20-015 of the OM617 manual for example:
 http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/Engine/617/20-015.pdf

I looked up section 20.4-015 in my paper engine service manual, and, sure
enough, it says to just remove the thermostat. (The on-line PDF is a
later version, 20.8-015).


 I have seen this special open thermostat mentioned in manuals also,
 but I can't recall for which models... perhaps only newer cars?

I am sure I saw it in my paper manual for W123s, but 20-015 does say to
remove the thermostat. I looked briefly in the manual and did not see
anything about the forced-open thermostat. Hmmm


 It could be necessary because sealing of the termostat house isn't
 possible without something taking up the space in some engines?

They all work by having the disk on the end of the thermostat move and
block off the flow directly to the block, forcing it to the radiator.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush - was: Heat wave

2012-07-02 Thread OK Don
Yes, the M117 is double throw, just like the OM617, etc.

On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 1:39 PM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

  Jaime Kopchinski wrote:

  The method in the manual really works... when you remove the
  thermostat, you get lots of flow and lots of stuff clears up.

 Just for reference, since there are a lot of OM616 and OM617
 motors on the list, removing the thermostat is NOT a good plan.
 I don't remember the M117 so it may be a single throw - but
 the diesels are a double throw design.  That is, when the path
 to the radiator opens, the bypass is closed.  Simply removing
 the thermostat will leave both open and will NOT WORK
 correctly.  For these, you must use a modified thermostat that
 is jammed open.  I used a piece of brake line split and the
 wrapped around the center shaft to hold it open.

 --   Philip

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush - was: Heat wave

2012-07-02 Thread Fmiser
   Jaime Kopchinski wrote:
  
   The method in the manual really works... when you remove
   the thermostat, you get lots of flow and lots of stuff
   clears up.

  Philip wrote:
 
  Just for reference, since there are a lot of OM616 and OM617
  motors on the list, removing the thermostat is NOT a good
  plan. I don't remember the M117 so it may be a single
  throw - but the diesels are a double throw design.  That
  is, when the path to the radiator opens, the bypass is
  closed.  Simply removing the thermostat will leave both open
  and will NOT WORK correctly.  For these, you must use a
  modified thermostat that is jammed open.  I used a piece of
  brake line split and the wrapped around the center shaft to
  hold it open.

 Jaime Kopchinski wrote:

 Anyway, running without a thermostat for the purpose of
 flushing is perfectly safe.  You'll be watching the
 temperature the whole time and purging the system is air is
 very easy.

I don't argue that it's safe.  But it also isn't going to do a
thorough job flushing.  The laws of hydrodynamics indicate that
the path of least resistance will get the most flow.  And the
path through the engine is going to have a higher resistance
than the 6 inch bypass pipe.  Therefore most of the water will
not go through the engine if the bypass isn't closed.

Do whatever you want - but when I do a cooling system flush, I
want it all cleaned out.  So I use a forced-open thermostat.

-- Philip



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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions

2006-07-06 Thread LarryT
To add one small nugget to Marshalls excellent instructions, turn the heater 
control to full hot - and leave it there until finished with the whole 
process including refilling with the appropriate coolant mixture.  Failing 
to do so can allow a bubble to form that will not be flushed out and irratic 
temps will occur.


Good luck with your Citric flush - I plan to try it myself during the next 
year or so.


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions



Steve MacSween wrote:

1. IIRC, the flush mixture stays in for 20 minutes. Yes?

2. Is it acceptable to use the lower rad hose as a drain? (Not being 
lazy,

just my back is sore as the devil and I don't want to jack the car up and
put a jackstand under it, to use the drain.)

TKS



Needs to be warmed up and then allowed to cool down. Allow to warm to 80
deg. C (normal operating temperature) and allow to remain there for 10+
minutes. Allow to cool to 50 deg. C (that usually takes 10-20 minutes)
and drain.

You can drain it any way you wish, but virtually all the fluid must come
out (from the radiator AND the block drains). Engine MUST be flushed at
least 3 times (each time the engine must be brought to operating temp
and run for 5 minutes at that temp to insure the acid is all out).

Marshall

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions

2006-07-06 Thread Marshall Booth

LarryT wrote:
To add one small nugget to Marshalls excellent instructions, turn the heater 
control to full hot - and leave it there until finished with the whole 
process including refilling with the appropriate coolant mixture.  Failing 
to do so can allow a bubble to form that will not be flushed out and irratic 
temps will occur.


Good luck with your Citric flush - I plan to try it myself during the next 
year or so.



YES, YES, YES!! Heater on defrost (full heat).

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions

2006-07-06 Thread John Ervine

LarryT wrote:
To add one small nugget to Marshalls excellent instructions, turn the heater 
control to full hot - and leave it there until finished with the whole 
process including refilling with the appropriate coolant mixture.  Failing 
to do so can allow a bubble to form that will not be flushed out and irratic 
temps will occur.


Good luck with your Citric flush - I plan to try it myself during the next 
year or so.


And one more caveat for those of us plagued with ACC2 servos - you really should 
bypass the servo's coolant passages for a coolant flush.  That is, if you'd like 
your servo to continue functioning (if it is at all)...


--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 270+kmi
1980 300TD 180+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 81+kmi
1976 350SE 4-spd 163+kmi
1972 220 278+kmi



Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions

2006-07-06 Thread R A Bennell
Should also help to flush the heater core.

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of LarryT
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 6:08 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions


To add one small nugget to Marshalls excellent instructions, turn the heater 
control to full hot - and leave it there until finished with the whole 
process including refilling with the appropriate coolant mixture.  Failing 
to do so can allow a bubble to form that will not be flushed out and irratic 
temps will occur.

Good luck with your Citric flush - I plan to try it myself during the next 
year or so.

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions


 Steve MacSween wrote:
 1. IIRC, the flush mixture stays in for 20 minutes. Yes?

 2. Is it acceptable to use the lower rad hose as a drain? (Not being 
 lazy,
 just my back is sore as the devil and I don't want to jack the car up and
 put a jackstand under it, to use the drain.)

 TKS


 Needs to be warmed up and then allowed to cool down. Allow to warm to 80
 deg. C (normal operating temperature) and allow to remain there for 10+
 minutes. Allow to cool to 50 deg. C (that usually takes 10-20 minutes)
 and drain.

 You can drain it any way you wish, but virtually all the fluid must come
 out (from the radiator AND the block drains). Engine MUST be flushed at
 least 3 times (each time the engine must be brought to operating temp
 and run for 5 minutes at that temp to insure the acid is all out).

 Marshall

 Marshall
 -- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 


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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions

2006-07-05 Thread Marshall Booth

Steve MacSween wrote:

1. IIRC, the flush mixture stays in for 20 minutes. Yes?

2. Is it acceptable to use the lower rad hose as a drain? (Not being lazy,
just my back is sore as the devil and I don't want to jack the car up and
put a jackstand under it, to use the drain.)

TKS



Needs to be warmed up and then allowed to cool down. Allow to warm to 80 
deg. C (normal operating temperature) and allow to remain there for 10+ 
minutes. Allow to cool to 50 deg. C (that usually takes 10-20 minutes) 
and drain.


You can drain it any way you wish, but virtually all the fluid must come 
out (from the radiator AND the block drains). Engine MUST be flushed at 
least 3 times (each time the engine must be brought to operating temp 
and run for 5 minutes at that temp to insure the acid is all out).


Marshall

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




[MBZ] Citric acid flush questions

2006-07-03 Thread Steve MacSween
1. IIRC, the flush mixture stays in for 20 minutes. Yes?

2. Is it acceptable to use the lower rad hose as a drain? (Not being lazy,
just my back is sore as the devil and I don't want to jack the car up and
put a jackstand under it, to use the drain.)

TKS

-- 
Mac
Steve MacSween
Aylmer, Quebec (Canada)
Mercedes: '82 300sd / '82 240d (x2) / '60 220s
Volvo: '87 245 (waiting for OM616 transplant)
SAAB: '83 900T (waiting for a miracle)




Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions

2006-07-03 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 13:48:29 -0400 Steve MacSween
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 1. IIRC, the flush mixture stays in for 20 minutes. Yes?

That sounds about right.


 2. Is it acceptable to use the lower rad hose as a drain? (Not being
 lazy, just my back is sore as the devil and I don't want to jack the car
 up and put a jackstand under it, to use the drain.)

It's kind of messy, but there's no prohibition on doing it that way.



Craig



Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions

2006-07-03 Thread Luther Gulseth


There is also the large blue phillips drain plug you can use first.  That 
will minimize the splash effect.  Pop open the expansion tank cap before you 
open the blue drain.  When the radiator is drained, I just disconnected the 
expansion-radiator hose and drained there.

Luther

Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:

 On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 13:48:29 -0400 Steve MacSween
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  1. IIRC, the flush mixture stays in for 20 minutes. Yes?
 
 That sounds about right.
 
 
  2. Is it acceptable to use the lower rad hose as a drain? (Not being
  lazy, just my back is sore as the devil and I don't want to jack the car
  up and put a jackstand under it, to use the drain.)
 
 It's kind of messy, but there's no prohibition on doing it that way.
 
 
 
 Craig
 
 



-- 
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (235kmi WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (160kmi)
'82 300D  (74kmi needs block or engine)





Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions

2006-07-03 Thread Jim Cathey

1. IIRC, the flush mixture stays in for 20 minutes. Yes?


Something like that.  Running.



2. Is it acceptable to use the lower rad hose as a drain? (Not being 
lazy,
just my back is sore as the devil and I don't want to jack the car up 
and

put a jackstand under it, to use the drain.)


Whatever you want.  I ended up using a free flush method where the water
was teed into the upper rad hose and I let it run out the normal fill
spot.  Made a heck of a mess, but rinsed pretty thoroughly!

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions

2006-07-03 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 3 Jul 2006 18:12:17 - Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 
 
 There is also the large blue phillips drain plug you can use first.

CAREFUL! That drain plug (through the center of one of the lower radiator
supports) is plastic and you can break it rather easily when re-installing
it.

You do not, however, need to raise the car up on jackstands when using it.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions

2006-07-03 Thread Luther Gulseth


BDTD.  Need to purchase a couple from Rusty next order
http://tinyurl.com/fvloe  Radiator Drain Plug on Rusty's site

Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:

 On Mon, 3 Jul 2006 18:12:17 - Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
 
  
  
  There is also the large blue phillips drain plug you can use first.
 
 CAREFUL! That drain plug (through the center of one of the lower radiator
 supports) is plastic and you can break it rather easily when re-installing
 it.
 
 You do not, however, need to raise the car up on jackstands when using it.
 
 
 Craig
 




-- 
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (235kmi WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (160kmi)
'82 300D  (74kmi needs block or engine)





Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions

2006-07-03 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 3 Jul 2006 20:54:23 - Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 
 
 BDTD.  Need to purchase a couple from Rusty next order
 http://tinyurl.com/fvloe  Radiator Drain Plug on Rusty's site

$4.58 for THAT! Oh my.

Anyway, I forgot to request one when I made my last order.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush

2006-05-30 Thread Rusty Cullens
2 jugs per flush.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Steve MacSween
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 2:20 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Citric acid flush

Remind me pls what the amount/ratio is on the citric acid for the
cooling
system flush?

I know this was covered recently but I was napping, doing spitballs at
the
back of the class, etc.

THankee

-- 
Mac
Steve MacSween
Aylmer, Quebec (Canada)
Mercedes: '82 300sd / '82 240d (x2) / '60 220s
Volvo: '87 245 (waiting for OM616 transplant)
SAAB: '83 900T (waiting for a miracle)


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[MBZ] Citric acid flush

2006-05-28 Thread Steve MacSween
Remind me pls what the amount/ratio is on the citric acid for the cooling
system flush?

I know this was covered recently but I was napping, doing spitballs at the
back of the class, etc.

THankee

-- 
Mac
Steve MacSween
Aylmer, Quebec (Canada)
Mercedes: '82 300sd / '82 240d (x2) / '60 220s
Volvo: '87 245 (waiting for OM616 transplant)
SAAB: '83 900T (waiting for a miracle)




Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush

2006-05-28 Thread Marshall Booth

Steve MacSween wrote:

Remind me pls what the amount/ratio is on the citric acid for the cooling
system flush?

I know this was covered recently but I was napping, doing spitballs at the
back of the class, etc.

THankee

A pound of citric acid in 1-2 gallons of water what I use (Mercedes 
recommends 100 g or 0.22 lb per liter or about a 10% solution for 
virtually any engine small to large) but the concentration is not real 
critical. Double or half that amount will work - may take a little 
longer, but will cause the salt deposits to go into solution.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush

2006-05-28 Thread Jim Cathey

1 kg citric acid in 5 liters of water from the 602-603 manual.


More exactly, 1kg per car, dissolved into about 5l before you
pour it in.  You'll make up the balance with water.  I just used
half the 5# container I bought.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush

2005-08-10 Thread andrew strasfogel
Health food store??  What else is it used for besides scrubbing rads?

On 8/9/05, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 jgiels wrote:
  you can go to a health food store and buy any quanity you want, I think I
  bought enough for $6 or $8.
 
  douglas.. 300D
 
  - Original Message -
  From: John Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 7:39 AM
  Subject: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush
 
 
 
 How much citric acid do I need to flush the cooling system?
 
 Local MB dealer has 1 lb in stock for ~$19.  Can get it online for $2-3 a
 lb, but have to order 5+ pounds...
 
 Also, I've heard mention of a drain plug on the engine block.  Is this
 basically the block heater or have I missed something?
 
 Thanks!!
 John
 '79 300SD
 
 About a kg (2.2 lb) is correct, but the precise concentration is not
 vital. Any amount between say a pound and 4-5 lbs (0.5 to 2 kg) will
 clean out the most any Mercedes cooling system. Be sure you flush the
 system well several times to insure that all the acid is GONE. The drain
 plug is on the passenger's side of the engine just in front of the
 starter motor.
 
 Marshall
 --
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi
   Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
 http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
 
 
 ___
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
 For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
 
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Re: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush

2005-08-10 Thread redghost

Great for getting stains out of dishwasher

Or if you are a kid

REALLY SOUR, so dunk lollipops in it

On Wednesday, August 10, 2005, at 05:58 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:


Health food store??  What else is it used for besides scrubbing rads?

On 8/9/05, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

jgiels wrote:
you can go to a health food store and buy any quanity you want, I 
think I

bought enough for $6 or $8.



--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA




Re: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush

2005-08-09 Thread jgiels
you can go to a health food store and buy any quanity you want, I think I 
bought enough for $6 or $8.


douglas.. 300D

- Original Message - 
From: John Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 7:39 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush



How much citric acid do I need to flush the cooling system?

Local MB dealer has 1 lb in stock for ~$19.  Can get it online for $2-3 a
lb, but have to order 5+ pounds...

Also, I've heard mention of a drain plug on the engine block.  Is this
basically the block heater or have I missed something?

Thanks!!
John
'79 300SD

___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net







[MBZ] Citric Acid Flush

2005-08-08 Thread John Robbins

How much citric acid do I need to flush the cooling system?

Local MB dealer has 1 lb in stock for ~$19.  Can get it online for $2-3 a 
lb, but have to order 5+ pounds...


Also, I've heard mention of a drain plug on the engine block.  Is this 
basically the block heater or have I missed something?


Thanks!!
John
'79 300SD



Re: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush

2005-08-08 Thread DElliott%SWS




Not sure on the year of your vechicle but on the 82's the drain is on the
same side as the block heater (passenger) and back towards the rear a few
inches.

Dan
82 300D-T 83kmi




Re: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush

2005-08-08 Thread Joe Knight
Manual specifies 10% at 80C for 10 minutes, repeating as needed for
badly calcified systems.  I think this would translate to ~ a kilo,
more or less, presumably proportionately longer for a weaker soln.

joe

On 8/8/05, John Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 How much citric acid do I need to flush the cooling system?



Re: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush

2005-08-08 Thread OK Don
The MB manual PDF that someone sent me two years ago specifies 0.5kg of 
citric acid - that's about 1lb. I bought mine at 
http://www.chemistrystore.com/citric_acid.htm.
Don't forget the forced open thermostat when cleaning/flushing the system.

On 8/8/05, Joe Knight [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Manual specifies 10% at 80C for 10 minutes, repeating as needed for
 badly calcified systems. I think this would translate to ~ a kilo,
 more or less, presumably proportionately longer for a weaker soln.
 
 joe
 
 On 8/8/05, John Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  How much citric acid do I need to flush the cooling system?
 
 ___
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 For new parts see www.buymbparts.com http://www.buymbparts.com
 For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com http://www.oldworldauto.com
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 



-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK 
'87 300SDL
'81 240D
'78 450SLC