Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work) beja4a3y
Since the last flush, I'm not getting any heavy deposits. Instead I'm
getting lots of fine powered rust. I pulled the heater core hoses and the
bright orange rust that was built up on the heater core and inside the
hoses is completely gone! :-)
Looks like another flush similar to the last one should result in much
cleaner coolant.
On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 7:22 PM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:
Most likely your heater core is copper, or possibly aluminum.
I had a similar situation on a W126 (300SD) I once owned.
When I bought it the owner had just put a radiator on it within the =
year. When I inspected the coolant it was brown and rusty colored. =
Figuring that it just needed a good flush and a return to MB coolant, I =
removed it, flushed it and the cooling system, and installed the correct =
coolant. I would add that I also replaced hoses, as the hoses had a =
nasty accumulation of brown discoloration in them that I can only =
suspect was rust.
Within a matter of weeks I started having problems with the temperatures =
rising if the car was moving more than about 40-50 mph. As soon as I =
crossed that threshold, the temperature would climb a good 10-15 degrees =
above the proper 82F or thereabouts.
Anyway, I removed the radiator and took it to a trusted shop. The core =
was plugged in the very center but what they said was rust. Where it =
came from, I have no idea. When I flushed and refilled the system the =
coolant remained the proper honey color that MB coolant is.
Apparently the core was already clogged, but since I bought the car in =
the winter (relatively speaking) the problem didn't manifest itself =
until the ambient temps got up relatively high. I can only suspect that =
they were running straight water in the system, and it caused the block =
to rust, as it's the only part in the system that could do so.
Point being, flush the system for sure. Whether or not you'll continue =
to see the rust/crud in the system is questionable. I doubt it's your =
heater core.
Dan
From: Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com
Ernest,
I have thought the same thing. After I replaced the thermostat/flushed
the
system I poured water in the upper radiator hose (connected to the
radiator) until water came out the thermostat housing. What I'm not
clear
on is how does a heater core get rusty? Are they made of steel or iron
and
not copper? Or does the rust from elsewhere just collect in the heater
core?
I am somewhat concerned if the heater core is rusty and I try to clean
it,
that it may spring a leak!
My current plan is to leave the system as is for now and see how dirty
the
coolant gets over the next 2-3 months. I suspect the hoses may
continue to
shed rust/discolor the coolant. What I don't want to do is spend money
on
something that will not solve the problem. If I'm going to get rust
even
with new hoses, I don't see any reason to replace hoses that are
otherwise
good.
On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:32 PM, ernest breakfield
erne...@backyardengineering.org wrote:
since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the
air
in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and
causing
corrosion there.
replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.
i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the
garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til
it's
clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until fully
clear.
then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by
filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same
problem.
cheers!
e
'85 300D(200K+)
'94 XJ(240K+)
On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:
Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
What
came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty
brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise,
what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured
clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I
removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the
engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and
rust-free.
It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on
the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower
radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes
from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.
On Mon, May
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
Dex-cool sludge? -- John W Reames jream...@verizon.net Home: +14106646986 Mobile: +14437915905 On Jun 3, 2012, at 0:23, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote: Thank for the suggestions. Where I live, I don't have the option for a garden hose to run for 20-30 minutes. What I have done instead is to pour gallon jugs of water through the heater core radiator, and engine. I am not sure if the garden hose has enough pressure to make the process go faster than pouring gallons in by hand. The problem has been the coolant is still getting dirty. I don't think the engine is making rust, but there must be some sticking to parts that is slowly coming out. Similar to how synthetic oil can clean out an engine over time. The weird part is how the coolant separates, with the heater core or expansion tank seeming to have more rusty water than the radiator. I think this must happen after the engine cools off. I would think the water pump moves the coolant around enough that it remains mixed when the engine is running (except for the expansion tank). On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 10:05 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote: My rescue 300TD had lots of rust and crap too. I flushed the heater, radiator, and engine individually with a garden hose until only clear water came out. I had an old trigger-style hose nozzle that fit inside the small hoses nicely with the aid of a hose clamp. Fresh coolant (less than 3 years old) should inhibit corrosion. -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Brian Toscano Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 1:52 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work) Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator. What came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty brown, and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I removed the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free. It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools. The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top of the pump after I did the first round of flushing. What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower radiator hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if the inside of the engine looks fine. On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote: I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester. However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem has been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting 100% perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block and head. On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark radiator. Did you fix the original problem? I think your flushing method failed. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '95 E300, '87 300TD ___ ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
I am not saying ignore, but instead leave it and see if the system continues to clean itself out. I have already seen that the cooling system is getting cleaner by driving it. It may be dex-cool sludge. When the thermostat failed and I removed the radiator cap I had to scoop out orange mud like paste. It may be that the mechanic who R/R'd the head saw rusty colored coolant and used Dexcool. Does't Dexcool usually leave a stain near external seals? I haven't seen any evidence of that. On Sun, Jun 3, 2012 at 6:13 AM, John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net wrote: Dex-cool sludge? -- John W Reames jream...@verizon.net Home: +14106646986 Mobile: +14437915905 On Jun 3, 2012, at 0:23, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote: Thank for the suggestions. Where I live, I don't have the option for a garden hose to run for 20-30 minutes. What I have done instead is to pour gallon jugs of water through the heater core radiator, and engine. I am not sure if the garden hose has enough pressure to make the process go faster than pouring gallons in by hand. The problem has been the coolant is still getting dirty. I don't think the engine is making rust, but there must be some sticking to parts that is slowly coming out. Similar to how synthetic oil can clean out an engine over time. The weird part is how the coolant separates, with the heater core or expansion tank seeming to have more rusty water than the radiator. I think this must happen after the engine cools off. I would think the water pump moves the coolant around enough that it remains mixed when the engine is running (except for the expansion tank). On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 10:05 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote: My rescue 300TD had lots of rust and crap too. I flushed the heater, radiator, and engine individually with a garden hose until only clear water came out. I had an old trigger-style hose nozzle that fit inside the small hoses nicely with the aid of a hose clamp. Fresh coolant (less than 3 years old) should inhibit corrosion. -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Brian Toscano Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 1:52 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work) Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator. What came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty brown, and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I removed the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free. It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools. The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top of the pump after I did the first round of flushing. What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower radiator hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if the inside of the engine looks fine. On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote: I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester. However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem has been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting 100% perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block and head. On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark radiator. Did you fix the original problem? I think your flushing method failed. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '95 E300, '87 300TD ___ ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
Sorry - coming on to this thread a little late - but guessing were talking about a cherekee with a 4 liter. It is a very difficult cooling system to bleed - for some unknown reason - a heater hose runs across teh top of the engine - best I can remember. The only way I have every been abel to properly bleed the system is to put a flushing port at the high point of that hose. One of those deals that you would attach your hose to. Then you fill the system the the cap to that loose untill coolant comes out of it and then tighten it up. I have also used it as a port to fill the system. Best of luck - I'm sure you can get more info using the power of the internet. Kind of a common problem as I Recall. Peter On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 9:41 PM, John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net wrote: Did the impeller rot off the old water pump? -- John W Reames jream...@verizon.net Home: +14106646986 Mobile: +14437915905 On Jun 2, 2012, at 14:45, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote: I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be the way it came from the factory. I don't think the spring itself is rusting - it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it. I didn't try to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it. I think changing the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring I could not clean. As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse water through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly clear again. Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block? Both are cast iron. On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: Maybe those springs? --R On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote: Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator. What came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty brown, and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I removed the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free. It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools. The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top of the pump after I did the first round of flushing. What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower radiator hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if the inside of the engine looks fine. On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail. **combrian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote: I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester. However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem has been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting 100% perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block and head. On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark radiator. Did you fix the original problem? I think your flushing method failed. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '95 E300, '87 300TD ___ __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/ http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/ http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/ http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
Yes - 4.0. The heater core hoses do run at valve cover level, higher than the radiator. I like your idea of modifying one of the heater core hoses, but I am hesitant to splice hoses because in my mind more fittings mean more potential sources of leaks and failures. I'm hoping most/all of the air is out of the system. I filled the heater core with fresh distilled water from the from one supply line which has an L-shaped bend near the thermostat housing. After filling up, I took it for a test drive and the expansion tank dropped a few inches, but still had coolant in it. I have since filled it up to the Full mark. Does a rising/lowering expansion tank fluid level indicate that air has been purged from the pressurized part of the system? On Sun, Jun 3, 2012 at 10:54 AM, Peter Hertzing phertz...@gmail.com wrote: Sorry - coming on to this thread a little late - but guessing were talking about a cherekee with a 4 liter. It is a very difficult cooling system to bleed - for some unknown reason - a heater hose runs across teh top of the engine - best I can remember. The only way I have every been abel to properly bleed the system is to put a flushing port at the high point of that hose. One of those deals that you would attach your hose to. Then you fill the system the the cap to that loose untill coolant comes out of it and then tighten it up. I have also used it as a port to fill the system. Best of luck - I'm sure you can get more info using the power of the internet. Kind of a common problem as I Recall. Peter On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 9:41 PM, John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net wrote: Did the impeller rot off the old water pump? -- John W Reames jream...@verizon.net Home: +14106646986 Mobile: +14437915905 On Jun 2, 2012, at 14:45, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote: I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be the way it came from the factory. I don't think the spring itself is rusting - it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it. I didn't try to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it. I think changing the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring I could not clean. As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse water through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly clear again. Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block? Both are cast iron. On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: Maybe those springs? --R On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote: Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator. What came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty brown, and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I removed the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free. It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools. The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top of the pump after I did the first round of flushing. What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower radiator hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if the inside of the engine looks fine. On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail. **combrian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote: I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester. However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem has been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting 100% perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block and head. On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark radiator. Did you fix the original problem? I think your flushing method failed. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '95 E300, '87 300TD ___ __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
When we did this we never had issues again - jsut make sure the it is the correct size for the hose - and should be fine. For arguments sake - you could make the Radiator the highest point by bleeding the system on jackstands as high as you can safely get the front of the jeep. Peter On Sun, Jun 3, 2012 at 12:02 PM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote: Yes - 4.0. The heater core hoses do run at valve cover level, higher than the radiator. I like your idea of modifying one of the heater core hoses, but I am hesitant to splice hoses because in my mind more fittings mean more potential sources of leaks and failures. I'm hoping most/all of the air is out of the system. I filled the heater core with fresh distilled water from the from one supply line which has an L-shaped bend near the thermostat housing. After filling up, I took it for a test drive and the expansion tank dropped a few inches, but still had coolant in it. I have since filled it up to the Full mark. Does a rising/lowering expansion tank fluid level indicate that air has been purged from the pressurized part of the system? On Sun, Jun 3, 2012 at 10:54 AM, Peter Hertzing phertz...@gmail.com wrote: Sorry - coming on to this thread a little late - but guessing were talking about a cherekee with a 4 liter. It is a very difficult cooling system to bleed - for some unknown reason - a heater hose runs across teh top of the engine - best I can remember. The only way I have every been abel to properly bleed the system is to put a flushing port at the high point of that hose. One of those deals that you would attach your hose to. Then you fill the system the the cap to that loose untill coolant comes out of it and then tighten it up. I have also used it as a port to fill the system. Best of luck - I'm sure you can get more info using the power of the internet. Kind of a common problem as I Recall. Peter On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 9:41 PM, John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net wrote: Did the impeller rot off the old water pump? -- John W Reames jream...@verizon.net Home: +14106646986 Mobile: +14437915905 On Jun 2, 2012, at 14:45, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote: I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be the way it came from the factory. I don't think the spring itself is rusting - it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it. I didn't try to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it. I think changing the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring I could not clean. As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse water through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly clear again. Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block? Both are cast iron. On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: Maybe those springs? --R On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote: Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator. What came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty brown, and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I removed the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free. It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools. The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top of the pump after I did the first round of flushing. What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower radiator hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if the inside of the engine looks fine. On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail. **combrian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote: I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester. However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem has been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting 100% perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block and head. On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: Remove a sample from
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
Peter Hertzing wrote: When we did this we never had issues again - jsut make sure the it is the correct size for the hose - and should be fine. Like this? http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AFKIT0-Universal-Flush-Fill/dp/B000CCFY5W ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
Put the front up on ramps while you're burping it? My '81 300TD liked to have the front higher while burping. We lived in the apartment back then so I drove it up on a handy curb which made burping it way easier. -Curt Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2012 11:02:12 -0600 From: Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work) Message-ID: CACnCPh=5cp2yo+-t3w-eexwcwx_zfonmbdxk4rneflflbpc...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Yes - 4.0. The heater core hoses do run at valve cover level, higher than the radiator. I like your idea of modifying one of the heater core hoses, but I am hesitant to splice hoses because in my mind more fittings mean more potential sources of leaks and failures. I'm hoping most/all of the air is out of the system. I filled the heater core with fresh distilled water from the from one supply line which has an L-shaped bend near the thermostat housing. After filling up, I took it for a test drive and the expansion tank dropped a few inches, but still had coolant in it. I have since filled it up to the Full mark. Does a rising/lowering expansion tank fluid level indicate that air has been purged from the pressurized part of the system? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
Yes auto parts stores have them too. Sent from my iPhone On Jun 3, 2012, at 12:56 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote: Peter Hertzing wrote: When we did this we never had issues again - jsut make sure the it is the correct size for the hose - and should be fine. Like this? http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AFKIT0-Universal-Flush-Fill/dp/B000CCFY5W ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator. What came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty brown, and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I removed the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free. It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools. The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top of the pump after I did the first round of flushing. What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower radiator hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if the inside of the engine looks fine. On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote: I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester. However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem has been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting 100% perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block and head. On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark radiator. Did you fix the original problem? I think your flushing method failed. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '95 E300, '87 300TD ___ ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
Maybe those springs? --R On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote: Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator. What came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty brown, and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I removed the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free. It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools. The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top of the pump after I did the first round of flushing. What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower radiator hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if the inside of the engine looks fine. On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanobrian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote: I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester. However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem has been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting 100% perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block and head. On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark radiator. Did you fix the original problem? I think your flushing method failed. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '95 E300, '87 300TD ___ ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be the way it came from the factory. I don't think the spring itself is rusting - it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it. I didn't try to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it. I think changing the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring I could not clean. As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse water through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly clear again. Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block? Both are cast iron. On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: Maybe those springs? --R On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote: Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator. What came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty brown, and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I removed the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free. It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools. The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top of the pump after I did the first round of flushing. What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower radiator hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if the inside of the engine looks fine. On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.**combrian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote: I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester. However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem has been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting 100% perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block and head. On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark radiator. Did you fix the original problem? I think your flushing method failed. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '95 E300, '87 300TD ___ __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
Air causes the rusting, so maybe if the whole thing is not absolutely full of coolant then whatever is left exposed will rust. That would most likely be at the top. --R On 6/2/12 2:45 PM, Brian Toscano wrote: I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be the way it came from the factory. I don't think the spring itself is rusting - it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it. I didn't try to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it. I think changing the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring I could not clean. As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse water through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly clear again. Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block? Both are cast iron. On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: Maybe those springs? --R On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote: Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator. What came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty brown, and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I removed the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free. It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools. The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top of the pump after I did the first round of flushing. What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower radiator hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if the inside of the engine looks fine. On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.**combrian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote: I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester. However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem has been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting 100% perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block and head. On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark radiator. Did you fix the original problem? I think your flushing method failed. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '95 E300, '87 300TD ___ __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
That is what I am thinking. Some of the black grit I've found in the coolant may be the old head gasket from when I paid a mechanic to R/R the head. The Jeep had a weird severe misfiring problem that turned out to be low compression from faulty exhaust valves. I believe it was isolated to 2000-2001 model years when Jeep changed the valve springs for emissions The rust may have formed when the engine was apart when the mechanic worked on it. I was in no hurry and he had it apart for about 4 months. The other unusual thing about this Jeep is that the original owner purchased it from the dealer with a skunky expansion tank. He bought it late in the model year and it was one of the last ones they made. He also told me, IIRC, that it was best to leave it near empty to prevent it from overflowing. Since I've replaced the thermostat and flushed it out, it doesn't seem to have that problem anymore. On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 1:08 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: Air causes the rusting, so maybe if the whole thing is not absolutely full of coolant then whatever is left exposed will rust. That would most likely be at the top. --R On 6/2/12 2:45 PM, Brian Toscano wrote: I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be the way it came from the factory. I don't think the spring itself is rusting - it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it. I didn't try to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it. I think changing the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring I could not clean. As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse water through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly clear again. Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block? Both are cast iron. On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79TD300@**constructivity.netrichthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: Maybe those springs? --R On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote: Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator. What came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty brown, and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I removed the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free. It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools. The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top of the pump after I did the first round of flushing. What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower radiator hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if the inside of the engine looks fine. On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail. combrian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote: I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester. However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem has been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting 100% perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block and head. On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark radiator. Did you fix the original problem? I think your flushing method failed. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '95 E300, '87 300TD ___ ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/ http://www.okiebenz.**com/archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_ okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com http://mail.**okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/**mercedes_okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/ http://www.okiebenz.**com/archive/ http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the
air in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and
causing corrosion there.
replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.
i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the
garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til
it's clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until
fully clear.
then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by
filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same problem.
cheers!
e
'85 300D(200K+)
'94 XJ(240K+)
On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:
Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator. What
came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.
On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanobrian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote:
I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The
bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem has
been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting 100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
and head.
On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.
Did you fix the original problem?
I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
___
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To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
___
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To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
Ernest,
I have thought the same thing. After I replaced the thermostat/flushed the
system I poured water in the upper radiator hose (connected to the
radiator) until water came out the thermostat housing. What I'm not clear
on is how does a heater core get rusty? Are they made of steel or iron and
not copper? Or does the rust from elsewhere just collect in the heater
core?
I am somewhat concerned if the heater core is rusty and I try to clean it,
that it may spring a leak!
My current plan is to leave the system as is for now and see how dirty the
coolant gets over the next 2-3 months. I suspect the hoses may continue to
shed rust/discolor the coolant. What I don't want to do is spend money on
something that will not solve the problem. If I'm going to get rust even
with new hoses, I don't see any reason to replace hoses that are otherwise
good.
On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:32 PM, ernest breakfield
erne...@backyardengineering.org wrote:
since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the air
in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and causing
corrosion there.
replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.
i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the
garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til it's
clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until fully clear.
then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by
filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same problem.
cheers!
e
'85 300D(200K+)
'94 XJ(240K+)
On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:
Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
What
came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty
brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I
removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.
On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian
Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.**combrian.tosc...@gmail.com
wrote:
I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The
bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem
has
been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting
100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
and head.
On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.
Did you fix the original problem?
I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___
__**_
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives
http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
__**_
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives
http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
__**_
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives
http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
___
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
My Dodge heater core wouldn't put out any heat at all. I backflushed it
with a garden hose for ten or fifteen minutes and the heater then worked
well until it went to the crusher.
Gerry
From: Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com
Ernest,
I have thought the same thing. After I replaced the thermostat/flushed
the
system I poured water in the upper radiator hose (connected to the
radiator) until water came out the thermostat housing. What I'm not clear
on is how does a heater core get rusty? Are they made of steel or iron
and
not copper? Or does the rust from elsewhere just collect in the heater
core?
I am somewhat concerned if the heater core is rusty and I try to clean it,
that it may spring a leak!
My current plan is to leave the system as is for now and see how dirty the
coolant gets over the next 2-3 months. I suspect the hoses may continue
to
shed rust/discolor the coolant. What I don't want to do is spend money on
something that will not solve the problem. If I'm going to get rust even
with new hoses, I don't see any reason to replace hoses that are
otherwise
good.
On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:32 PM, ernest breakfield
erne...@backyardengineering.org wrote:
since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the air
in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and
causing
corrosion there.
replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.
i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the
garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til it's
clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until fully
clear.
then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by
filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same problem.
cheers!
e
'85 300D(200K+)
'94 XJ(240K+)
On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:
Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
What
came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty
brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise,
what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured
clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I
removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the
engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and
rust-free.
It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the
top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower
radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from
if
the inside of the engine looks fine.
On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian
Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.**combrian.tosc...@gmail.com
wrote:
I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The
bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem
has
been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting
100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron
block
and head.
On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.
Did you fix the original problem?
I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work) beja4a3y
Most likely your heater core is copper, or possibly aluminum.
I had a similar situation on a W126 (300SD) I once owned.
When I bought it the owner had just put a radiator on it within the =
year. When I inspected the coolant it was brown and rusty colored. =
Figuring that it just needed a good flush and a return to MB coolant, I =
removed it, flushed it and the cooling system, and installed the correct =
coolant. I would add that I also replaced hoses, as the hoses had a =
nasty accumulation of brown discoloration in them that I can only =
suspect was rust.
Within a matter of weeks I started having problems with the temperatures =
rising if the car was moving more than about 40-50 mph. As soon as I =
crossed that threshold, the temperature would climb a good 10-15 degrees =
above the proper 82F or thereabouts.
Anyway, I removed the radiator and took it to a trusted shop. The core =
was plugged in the very center but what they said was rust. Where it =
came from, I have no idea. When I flushed and refilled the system the =
coolant remained the proper honey color that MB coolant is.
Apparently the core was already clogged, but since I bought the car in =
the winter (relatively speaking) the problem didn't manifest itself =
until the ambient temps got up relatively high. I can only suspect that =
they were running straight water in the system, and it caused the block =
to rust, as it's the only part in the system that could do so.
Point being, flush the system for sure. Whether or not you'll continue =
to see the rust/crud in the system is questionable. I doubt it's your =
heater core.
Dan
From: Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com
Ernest,
I have thought the same thing. After I replaced the thermostat/flushed the
system I poured water in the upper radiator hose (connected to the
radiator) until water came out the thermostat housing. What I'm not clear
on is how does a heater core get rusty? Are they made of steel or iron and
not copper? Or does the rust from elsewhere just collect in the heater
core?
I am somewhat concerned if the heater core is rusty and I try to clean it,
that it may spring a leak!
My current plan is to leave the system as is for now and see how dirty the
coolant gets over the next 2-3 months. I suspect the hoses may continue to
shed rust/discolor the coolant. What I don't want to do is spend money on
something that will not solve the problem. If I'm going to get rust even
with new hoses, I don't see any reason to replace hoses that are otherwise
good.
On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:32 PM, ernest breakfield
erne...@backyardengineering.org wrote:
since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the air
in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and causing
corrosion there.
replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.
i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the
garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til it's
clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until fully clear.
then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by
filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same problem.
cheers!
e
'85 300D(200K+)
'94 XJ(240K+)
On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:
Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
What
came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty
brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I
removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.
On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian
Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.**combrian.tosc...@gmail.com
wrote:
I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The
bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem
has
been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting
100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
and head.
On Sun, May 27, 2012 at
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
Did the impeller rot off the old water pump? -- John W Reames jream...@verizon.net Home: +14106646986 Mobile: +14437915905 On Jun 2, 2012, at 14:45, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote: I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be the way it came from the factory. I don't think the spring itself is rusting - it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it. I didn't try to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it. I think changing the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring I could not clean. As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse water through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly clear again. Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block? Both are cast iron. On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: Maybe those springs? --R On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote: Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator. What came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty brown, and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I removed the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free. It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools. The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top of the pump after I did the first round of flushing. What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower radiator hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if the inside of the engine looks fine. On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.**combrian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote: I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester. However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem has been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting 100% perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block and head. On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark radiator. Did you fix the original problem? I think your flushing method failed. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '95 E300, '87 300TD ___ __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
My rescue 300TD had lots of rust and crap too. I flushed the heater, radiator, and engine individually with a garden hose until only clear water came out. I had an old trigger-style hose nozzle that fit inside the small hoses nicely with the aid of a hose clamp. Fresh coolant (less than 3 years old) should inhibit corrosion. -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Brian Toscano Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 1:52 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work) Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator. What came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty brown, and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I removed the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free. It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools. The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top of the pump after I did the first round of flushing. What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower radiator hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if the inside of the engine looks fine. On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote: I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester. However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem has been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting 100% perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block and head. On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark radiator. Did you fix the original problem? I think your flushing method failed. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '95 E300, '87 300TD ___ ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
Thank for the suggestions. Where I live, I don't have the option for a garden hose to run for 20-30 minutes. What I have done instead is to pour gallon jugs of water through the heater core radiator, and engine. I am not sure if the garden hose has enough pressure to make the process go faster than pouring gallons in by hand. The problem has been the coolant is still getting dirty. I don't think the engine is making rust, but there must be some sticking to parts that is slowly coming out. Similar to how synthetic oil can clean out an engine over time. The weird part is how the coolant separates, with the heater core or expansion tank seeming to have more rusty water than the radiator. I think this must happen after the engine cools off. I would think the water pump moves the coolant around enough that it remains mixed when the engine is running (except for the expansion tank). On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 10:05 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote: My rescue 300TD had lots of rust and crap too. I flushed the heater, radiator, and engine individually with a garden hose until only clear water came out. I had an old trigger-style hose nozzle that fit inside the small hoses nicely with the aid of a hose clamp. Fresh coolant (less than 3 years old) should inhibit corrosion. -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Brian Toscano Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 1:52 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work) Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator. What came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty brown, and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I removed the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free. It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools. The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top of the pump after I did the first round of flushing. What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower radiator hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if the inside of the engine looks fine. On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote: I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester. However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem has been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting 100% perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block and head. On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark radiator. Did you fix the original problem? I think your flushing method failed. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '95 E300, '87 300TD ___ ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
heater cores seem to collect crud, regardless of where it originates
from. until you have an effective flush of that area (read; under
pressure), it's hard to eliminate that as an area of concern... and if
you didn't do your fill with the heater set full-on high so that the
water was circulating through there, it's not likely you got all the air
out of the system.
i definitely would not just leave it to see what happens; these
things rarely (if ever!) fix themselves.
i think it unlikely that cleaning out the heater core could *cause*
any problem, or even accelerate any problem you might already have. even
if that were to happen, would you rather have that problem while you're
out driving about at some random point, or when you're already at home?
cheers!
e
On 02/Jun/12 17:51, Brian Toscano wrote:
Ernest,
I have thought the same thing. After I replaced the thermostat/flushed the
system I poured water in the upper radiator hose (connected to the
radiator) until water came out the thermostat housing. What I'm not clear
on is how does a heater core get rusty? Are they made of steel or iron and
not copper? Or does the rust from elsewhere just collect in the heater
core?
I am somewhat concerned if the heater core is rusty and I try to clean it,
that it may spring a leak!
My current plan is to leave the system as is for now and see how dirty the
coolant gets over the next 2-3 months. I suspect the hoses may continue to
shed rust/discolor the coolant. What I don't want to do is spend money on
something that will not solve the problem. If I'm going to get rust even
with new hoses, I don't see any reason to replace hoses that are otherwise
good.
On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:32 PM, ernest breakfield
erne...@backyardengineering.org wrote:
since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the air
in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and causing
corrosion there.
replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.
i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the
garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til it's
clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until fully clear.
then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by
filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same problem.
cheers!
e
'85 300D(200K+)
'94 XJ(240K+)
On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:
Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
What
came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty
brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored. What I
removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
The water pump itself looks fine also. A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses. The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside. The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap. It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.
On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian
Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.**combrian.tosc...@gmail.com
wrote:
I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The
bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem
has
been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting
100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
and head.
On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.
Did you fix the original problem?
I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___
__**_
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives
http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
__**_
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester. However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem has been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting 100% perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block and head. On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark radiator. Did you fix the original problem? I think your flushing method failed. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '95 E300, '87 300TD ___ ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
About a month ago I was in town and rolled the windows down. I smelled antifreeze and someone pulled up next to me and said you're leaking coolant. My coolant jug was overflowing, but my dash gauge was spot on. I got it to a nearby Wal Mart where I could buy supplies and rent a car nearby. I rented a car and drove back home to get tools. The top of the radiator had a lot of crap in it, but when I removed the thermostat, everything looked fine. I changed the thermostat, refilled, and drove home. I flushed the cooling system repeatedly to get rid of any crap that had come loose. Now what happens is that my coolant expansion tank gets dirty coolant in it, but when I remove the radiator cap, I see green coolant. The expansion tank is at regular atmospheric pressure and connects to the radiator right by the tank. I would expect ALL the coolant to look the same color. That's not what's happening. The hose between the radiator and expansion tank has been changed and the expansion tank is clean. I don't think it is something to be concerned about, as it doesn't affect the operability of the vehicle, but I don't understand why the coolant seems to separate. I am wondering if the dirtier coolant is somehow lighter or less dense and somehow floats to the top and expands out to the expansion tank, whereas the green coolant stays in the system Any thoughts? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
On Sun, 27 May 2012 18:43:43 -0600 Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote: I don't think it is something to be concerned about, as it doesn't affect the operability of the vehicle, but I don't understand why the coolant seems to separate. I am wondering if the dirtier coolant is somehow lighter or less dense and somehow floats to the top and expands out to the expansion tank, whereas the green coolant stays in the system Any thoughts? With as much turbulence that (should!) exist in the radiator when you are driving (which is when the coolant gets warm and expands) I cannot see how things would segregate, even if there were some dirty coolant in it. Do you have an oil leak into the cooling system? Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
I don't think there is an oil leak into the coolant. There is a small amount of black stuff in the expansion tank, but it doesn't look like any oil in coolant I've ever seen. It settles to the bottom, unlike oil which would normally float, and the expansion tank rinses out with tap water. On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:01 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote: On Sun, 27 May 2012 18:43:43 -0600 Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote: I don't think it is something to be concerned about, as it doesn't affect the operability of the vehicle, but I don't understand why the coolant seems to separate. I am wondering if the dirtier coolant is somehow lighter or less dense and somehow floats to the top and expands out to the expansion tank, whereas the green coolant stays in the system Any thoughts? With as much turbulence that (should!) exist in the radiator when you are driving (which is when the coolant gets warm and expands) I cannot see how things would segregate, even if there were some dirty coolant in it. Do you have an oil leak into the cooling system? Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)
Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to compare side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark radiator. Did you fix the original problem? I think your flushing method failed. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '95 E300, '87 300TD ___ ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
