Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-27 Thread Dieselhead
OK, found the sensor or the rear of the right head.   0 ohms cold, 
the switched to infinite as the engine warmed up.  tried jumping the 
two sockets in the plug.  No difference, so I figured the $800 idle 
control valve (ICV) is defunct.


Then removed the wires to ICV  and with the engine running, applied 
12v across the pins.  Engine shut down immediately.  ICV appears to 
function normally


so:
1.  ICV connections are good.
2.  pulse to ICV terminal appears good, but I don't know for sure 
what is normal (indicates bad sensir ir bad ICV  indicates OVP and 
Idle control relays are good
3.sensor switches between  0 ohm and infinite ohm as might be 
expected.  that leaves the ICV

4.  ICV 12v test shuts the engine down immediately.  indicates ICV is ok.

now what?

I got the pdf Barry sent.  will print it and look for anything else. 
I am stumped again/still rant /rant





Fred -
Sound to me like the cold engine sensor is not working. Did you get the pdf
file that I sent you (07.3-112.pdf 2Mb) early Saturday AM? It was the file
that Jamie was referring to. Not sure how your SL is set up but on my '81
there is a temperature sensor in the back of the right cylinder Head that is
used by the idle speed computer to give you fast idle when the engine is
cold. When the engine warms up the sensor (closes?) and sends a signal to
the idle speed computer so that the idle speed then drops to normal. As I
recall the test to see if that circuit and sensor is working was just to
pull off the connector from the sensor. That should equal fast idle. Short
the connector should drop to warm idle. Don't trust my memory read the pdf
before you try that. Also I think I remember seeing that in the later 116
engines they used oil temperature instead of water temp. but that would be
in the pdf. Let me know if you didn't get the file and I'll try to send it
again. I can break it into 2 smaller files if your mail server choked on the
2Mb file.

Barry


Went to 1600 RPM immediately




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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-27 Thread Jim Cathey
4.  ICV 12v test shuts the engine down immediately.  indicates ICV is 
ok.


Indicates ICV is not completely dead.  It might be sticky,
and unable to move smoothly as it should.  Have you cleaned
it out thoroughly with brake cleaner?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-27 Thread Dieselhead
Not yet.  Have to go several miles to FLAPS for brake cleaner.  Blew 
several shots of wd40 into it last night as a cleaner.  not much dirt 
came out.


On barry's 81, the test procedure is 3 pages of pdf and includes 3 
electric and 2 electro/mechanical components.


On the 83 on USA version the test procedure is 15 pages (5x) and not 
quite 5 x  as many components.  Much more complex.
on the 85 us version the temp input is not from the water temp switch 
at the back of the head where it is fairly easy to access.  Rather, 
it is from an oil temp switch buried somewhere down by the hard to 
reach oil filter, and since it is near the top of the oil filter, 
inaccessible from above or below with the engine in the car.  They 
don't tell you how to get at it, that is a different job #.  I am 
going to try to fine the other end of the wire(s)


I will try to simulate operation of the oil switch and see if that 
changes engine speed.and also test a vacuum switch, when i find it. 
if those check out, most of the other tests result in replace the 
control unit  (idle speed control computer relay)  So then it is 
off to see if I can find a junkyard that will let me pull the ICV and 
IC relay computer.


There is also an on/off test for the ICV where you feel and hear it 
function when the switch is turned on and off.  That takes 2 people, 
which I don't have right now.  I tend to believe the ICV is 
functional because of the speed at which it shut down the engine.  If 
it was a problem with the valve modulating, there would be more 
chance that the idle speeds would fluctuate on different days.  This 
does not.


	there is still a possibility that the wires are hooked to the 
ICV backwards, as it does not have an original plug, but red 
individual crimp on connectors.   there does not appear to be any 
orienting lug on the ICV, so I tend to think the it does not matter 
as to polarity.  But that is an untested theory.


85 380SL



4.  ICV 12v test shuts the engine down immediately.  indicates ICV is ok.


Indicates ICV is not completely dead.  It might be sticky,
and unable to move smoothly as it should.  Have you cleaned
it out thoroughly with brake cleaner?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-27 Thread Dieselhead

85 380SL

After the 12v test passed and I was stumped, I printed the 18 page 
page troubleshooting pdf to plan my attack without the special tools. 
Put the wires back on the ICV to start the engine and do the test of 
the vacuum switch.  No start, so obviously the ICV did not open up. 
tapped on it and tried starting again.   So, now I know I have a bad 
ICV.  Tested the vacuum switch.  no joy, it did nothing.


At this point, I think the troubleshooting should be suspended until 
I find a junkyard were I can get a ICV and the #21, Idle control 
(box/computer/relay).  Most of the remaining trouble shooting ends 
with replace the idle control   and the only other thing is the oil 
pressure switch, and that I can check when replacing the idle control 
with a junkyard find.  (Jump pin 6 to ground.)  The other trick is to 
FIND it.  The pdf shoes it on the firewall near the brake booster. 
Not on this car.  Probably under the pass side dash.

So I am off to find a junker...

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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-27 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
 If the car is running and you unplug the ICV, does it do 
anything?  IIRC the quick and dirty test is if the idle goes way 
up then its good.  If it does nothing, its bad.


On 9/27/2010 12:16 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

85 380SL

After the 12v test passed and I was stumped, I printed the 18 
page page troubleshooting pdf to plan my attack without the 
special tools. Put the wires back on the ICV to start the engine 
and do the test of the vacuum switch.  No start, so obviously 
the ICV did not open up. tapped on it and tried starting 
again.   So, now I know I have a bad ICV.  Tested the vacuum 
switch.  no joy, it did nothing.


At this point, I think the troubleshooting should be suspended 
until I find a junkyard were I can get a ICV and the #21, Idle 
control (box/computer/relay).  Most of the remaining trouble 
shooting ends with replace the idle control   and the only 
other thing is the oil pressure switch, and that I can check 
when replacing the idle control with a junkyard find.  (Jump pin 
6 to ground.)  The other trick is to FIND it.  The pdf shoes it 
on the firewall near the brake booster. Not on this car.  
Probably under the pass side dash.

So I am off to find a junker...

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--
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 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-27 Thread Dieselhead


Makes no difference.  there is a pulsed signal to it about 60 cycles 
and about half on half off at 1600 to 2000 rpm.  the wire to ground 
is ok.  I know the ICV is bad.  still have to test the oil pressure 
switch, wires and relay.


 If the car is running and you unplug the ICV, does it do anything? 
IIRC the quick and dirty test is if the idle goes way up then its 
good.  If it does nothing, its bad.


On 9/27/2010 12:16 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

85 380SL

After the 12v test passed and I was stumped, I printed the 18 page 
page troubleshooting pdf to plan my attack without the special 
tools. Put the wires back on the ICV to start the engine and do the 
test of the vacuum switch.  No start, so obviously the ICV did not 
open up. tapped on it and tried starting again.   So, now I know I 
have a bad ICV.  Tested the vacuum switch.  no joy, it did nothing.


At this point, I think the troubleshooting should be suspended 
until I find a junkyard were I can get a ICV and the #21, Idle 
control (box/computer/relay).  Most of the remaining trouble 
shooting ends with replace the idle control   and the only other 
thing is the oil pressure switch, and that I can check when 
replacing the idle control with a junkyard find.  (Jump pin 6 to 
ground.)  The other trick is to FIND it.  The pdf shoes it on the 
firewall near the brake booster. Not on this car.  Probably under 
the pass side dash.

So I am off to find a junker...

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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.856 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3162 - Release Date: 
09/27/10 01:34:00




--
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 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-27 Thread Dieselhead
 Tried hunting vacuum leaks later today.  The boots for the ICV are a 
little loose.  I pulled the one off that goes straight down from the 
straight end of the ICV.   in the end, the idle is now higher, about 
2500.  There is some form of boot that goes under what I would call 
the throttle body (it is where the air cleaner goes on) that I must 
have cracked when I was putting things back together.  What all do 
you have to have in terms of parts, gaskets, copper or aluminum ring 
gaskets to take this apart and put it back together again?


I can't take it apart if I don't have the parts in hand, cause I need 
to leave in a couple of days.





If the car is running and you unplug the ICV, does it do anything? 
IIRC the quick and dirty test is if the idle goes way up then its 
good.  If it does nothing, its bad.


On 9/27/2010 12:16 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

85 380SL

After the 12v test passed and I was stumped, I printed the 18 page 
page troubleshooting pdf to plan my attack without the special 
tools. Put the wires back on the ICV to start the engine and do the 
test of the vacuum switch.  No start, so obviously the ICV did not 
open up. tapped on it and tried starting again.   So, now I know I 
have a bad ICV.  Tested the vacuum switch.  no joy, it did nothing.


At this point, I think the troubleshooting should be suspended 
until I find a junkyard were I can get a ICV and the #21, Idle 
control (box/computer/relay).  Most of the remaining trouble 
shooting ends with replace the idle control   and the only other 
thing is the oil pressure switch, and that I can check when 
replacing the idle control with a junkyard find.  (Jump pin 6 to 
ground.)  The other trick is to FIND it.  The pdf shoes it on the 
firewall near the brake booster. Not on this car.  Probably under 
the pass side dash.

So I am off to find a junker...


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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-27 Thread Jim Cathey
	there is still a possibility that the wires are hooked to the ICV 
backwards, as it does not have an original plug, but red individual 
crimp on connectors.   there does not appear to be any orienting lug 
on the ICV, so I tend to think the it does not matter as to polarity.  
But that is an untested theory.


It may be polarized.  I think there's a male on the connector that
goes into a female on the valve.  Take a look.  Better yet, try the
pins both ways 'round and see if it makes a difference.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-27 Thread Jim Cathey
other trick is to FIND it.  The pdf shoes it on the firewall near the 
brake booster. Not on this car.  Probably under the pass side dash.


Yup.  See:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/SL2log.html#21Aug2007

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-26 Thread Dieselhead
OK, I pulled off the wires, and one terminal came off the wire. 
pulled out the idle speed control/motor and looked at it.  there was 
a 12v pulse signal at the hot wire and the other appeared to have 
continuity to ground.  all the hoses and vac look ok.


So I thought maybe the wire that came off had not been making 
connection.  repaired the terminal and put that wire on the bottom 
pin as it had been.  There does not seem to be any polarity, so 
reversing the wires probably won't matter?  Or will it matter?


put it all together and started the car, hoping the one wire was the 
culprit.  Went to 1600 RPM immediately.  800 when in D or R.  cycled 
through gears several times.  only difference is that when the trans 
is in  Neutral or P, rpm rises as the engine heats up.  So 1600 to 
2000 in N or P  800 in gear D or R.


Same as before.

Did not do the 12v test to the pins with the wires removed yet.  That is next.
The pulse signal seems to be off about the same as on, and about 1 
pulse a sec, just guessing.  No fancy electrical intruments.  I am 
thinking that the OVP and idle relay are ok.


Likely that the idle speed control/motor is defective.

the 12v test might indicate something, if it does not kill the engine.

Thoughts?


You're right on Fred... most likely an issue with the idle control.
The idle valve looks like this:
http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/0001411225.jpg

Take a look at it and all the rubber hoses that connect it.  Anything
dried or up cracked should be replaced. Most likely, it all needs to
be replaced, along with all the rubber vacuum line fittings.  This is
a good place to start and might cure lots of running issues with the
car.  The parts are not too expensive and you just replace each part
one at a time to avoid mixing things up.  Note that the vacuum line
arrangements are different from model year to model year, so if you
get a diagram, make sure its for a 1985 US model car only.

 I believe if you remove the idle valve and rotate it back and forth
in your hand, you should hear the valve inside open and close.  You
can try cleaning it out with your favorite spray stuff and see if it
helps.  My experience is that it doesn't work for long if you do clean
it.

There is a controller for the idle valve, but I'm not too familiar
with the specifics.

The factory service CD will be very helpful to you in diagnosing this one.

Jaime

On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 2:36 PM, Frederick W Moir 
fred.s...@verizon.net wrote:

 D'head.
 Air leak, or stuck idle control motor?
 I know nada about the 380SL's fuel system.
 Fred Moir
 Lynn MA
 Diesel preferred.

 On 9/24/2010 1:27 PM, Dieselhead wrote:


 this car seems to idle very high when it is in neutral.  It is like the
 high idle never goes to normal idle.  When you start the engine, it goes to
 about 2000 rpm and stays there.  When you put it into D or R, the engine
 slows enough to be ok.  I did not check the tach, but I would say 750 to
 1000.  as soon as you take it out of gear, the RPMS go up to 2000.
  Thoroughly warmed up engine...

 I think I heard once that this is an electric problem to do with one or
 two relays.  Can anyone point me to the right relays?

 No,  blipping the throttle does not get it off the high idle.  EVER.  TIA

 Still 85 380SL

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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-26 Thread Barry Stark
Fred -
Sound to me like the cold engine sensor is not working. Did you get the pdf
file that I sent you (07.3-112.pdf 2Mb) early Saturday AM? It was the file
that Jamie was referring to. Not sure how your SL is set up but on my '81
there is a temperature sensor in the back of the right cylinder Head that is
used by the idle speed computer to give you fast idle when the engine is
cold. When the engine warms up the sensor (closes?) and sends a signal to
the idle speed computer so that the idle speed then drops to normal. As I
recall the test to see if that circuit and sensor is working was just to
pull off the connector from the sensor. That should equal fast idle. Short
the connector should drop to warm idle. Don't trust my memory read the pdf
before you try that. Also I think I remember seeing that in the later 116
engines they used oil temperature instead of water temp. but that would be
in the pdf. Let me know if you didn't get the file and I'll try to send it
again. I can break it into 2 smaller files if your mail server choked on the
2Mb file.

Barry

Went to 1600 RPM immediately



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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-26 Thread Dieselhead
Uh, that was my SL question.  No, I didn't get a pdf.  send it to 
126die...@gmail.com  thanks.



Fred -
Sound to me like the cold engine sensor is not working. Did you get the pdf
file that I sent you (07.3-112.pdf 2Mb) early Saturday AM? It was the file
that Jamie was referring to. Not sure how your SL is set up but on my '81
there is a temperature sensor in the back of the right cylinder Head that is
used by the idle speed computer to give you fast idle when the engine is
cold. When the engine warms up the sensor (closes?) and sends a signal to
the idle speed computer so that the idle speed then drops to normal. As I
recall the test to see if that circuit and sensor is working was just to
pull off the connector from the sensor. That should equal fast idle. Short
the connector should drop to warm idle. Don't trust my memory read the pdf
before you try that. Also I think I remember seeing that in the later 116
engines they used oil temperature instead of water temp. but that would be
in the pdf. Let me know if you didn't get the file and I'll try to send it
again. I can break it into 2 smaller files if your mail server choked on the
2Mb file.

Barry


Went to 1600 RPM immediately




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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-26 Thread Dieselhead
Well guess what:  Rusty's website says that idle control valve is 
$800 or more at the friendly local stealership.  Only $350 from Rust 
man.  for a $25 part.  Ok, to be fair if I call him he will probably 
sell it for less, but $300 is still a lot of money to slow down the 
idle.  How bout I stuff a 20 cent faucet washer in there?  Then it 
might idle too rich?  I can always drill out the hole to get more air 
through.


I will test the Idle control unit tomorrow to see if 12v kills the engine.

I will try to figure out/find the sensor Barry talks about.  That is 
what I thought i should be looking for from the beginning.  Just a 
little thermo that is supposed to say ok, I am warm now so the idle 
speed drops.


grumble stupid gassers.  by the time I get done with this, I might 
be able to diagnose 116 gassers. /grumble


I did see a vacuum sensor buried inside the front side of the Rt 
head.  I'll look on the right hinterkopf tomorrow to see if I find an 
elektrik thermo switch there..



Fred -
Sound to me like the cold engine sensor is not working. Did you get the pdf
file that I sent you (07.3-112.pdf 2Mb) early Saturday AM? It was the file
that Jamie was referring to. Not sure how your SL is set up but on my '81
there is a temperature sensor in the back of the right cylinder Head that is
used by the idle speed computer to give you fast idle when the engine is
cold. When the engine warms up the sensor (closes?) and sends a signal to
the idle speed computer so that the idle speed then drops to normal. As I
recall the test to see if that circuit and sensor is working was just to
pull off the connector from the sensor. That should equal fast idle. Short
the connector should drop to warm idle. Don't trust my memory read the pdf
before you try that. Also I think I remember seeing that in the later 116
engines they used oil temperature instead of water temp. but that would be
in the pdf. Let me know if you didn't get the file and I'll try to send it
again. I can break it into 2 smaller files if your mail server choked on the
2Mb file.

Barry


Went to 1600 RPM immediately




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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL) OT Caravan

2010-09-25 Thread Mitch Haley

Dieselhead wrote:
Wonder if i can drill a hole in it and then thread in one of those 
self-tapping drain plugs, or even a metal building screw with the washer 
and neoprene seal.  The plug may cause an imbalance, but I doubt the 
screw would cause significant imbalance.I guess I could put in 2 
plugs/screws 180 degrees apart.  I suppose the clearance to the vanes 
may be too close.  Anyone cut a modern TC open?


Sounds like a good way to make a leak.
When a friend of mine burned the fluid in his Caravan, (one generation before 
yours) I changed the filter,  unhooked the cooler line to the radiator, plugged 
the cooler line into a clear vinyl hose, and let the engine idle until the fluid 
coming out suddenly changed from brown to pink. Apparently it did not mix in the 
torque converter, the new fluid pushed out the old, and the change was obvious 
when the old was gone and the new started coming out.


Then I hooked up an axillary cooler and adjusted the fluid level. The tranny 
held up for as long as they owned the van, but I think that was only a couple of 
years after I installed the cooler.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL) OT Caravan

2010-09-25 Thread Dieselhead

Ah!  good idea.  If the fluid/pan look bad, i will use that trick.


Dieselhead wrote:
Wonder if i can drill a hole in it and then thread in one of those 
self-tapping drain plugs, or even a metal building screw with the 
washer and neoprene seal.  The plug may cause an imbalance, but I 
doubt the screw would cause significant imbalance.I guess I 
could put in 2 plugs/screws 180 degrees apart.  I suppose the 
clearance to the vanes may be too close.  Anyone cut a modern TC 
open?


Sounds like a good way to make a leak.
When a friend of mine burned the fluid in his Caravan, (one 
generation before yours) I changed the filter,  unhooked the cooler 
line to the radiator, plugged the cooler line into a clear vinyl 
hose, and let the engine idle until the fluid coming out suddenly 
changed from brown to pink. Apparently it did not mix in the torque 
converter, the new fluid pushed out the old, and the change was 
obvious when the old was gone and the new started coming out.


Then I hooked up an axillary cooler and adjusted the fluid level. 
The tranny held up for as long as they owned the van, but I think 
that was only a couple of years after I installed the cooler.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-25 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
 Its probably the idle control relay, Im not sure where its going 
to be on a 107, but on a 126 its between the 2 firewalls.  It will 
say 8zyl on it


On 9/24/2010 12:27 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
this car seems to idle very high when it is in neutral.  It is 
like the high idle never goes to normal idle.  When you start 
the engine, it goes to about 2000 rpm and stays there.  When you 
put it into D or R, the engine slows enough to be ok.  I did not 
check the tach, but I would say 750 to 1000.  as soon as you 
take it out of gear, the RPMS go up to 2000.  Thoroughly warmed 
up engine...


I think I heard once that this is an electric problem to do with 
one or two relays.  Can anyone point me to the right relays?


No,  blipping the throttle does not get it off the high idle.  
EVER.  TIA


Still 85 380SL

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-25 Thread Jim Cathey

Any way to check the OVP relay, other than looking at the fuse?


Measure the voltage coming off of it?


So the wires are fed power by the OVP relay?


The computer that monitors and regulates idle speed is powered
by the OVP.  The computer (idle speed 'relay') powers the valve.

So if I could figure out which one is supposed to be hot, then jump 
+12v to it, then the idle slows down,


Usually if you power the idle actuator separately the engine dies.
It needs _some_ air at idle!  Don't try to push power in while the
relay is connected.  Unless you maybe want to fry it.  Killing the
engine with the actuator is one way to test its ability to cork off
all the way.


gets a heat signal from somewhere to close the circuit


Not that simple.  There's a microcontroller in there.  It eats
the tach signal and the idle throttle switch, and modulates the
PWM duty cycle to the idle actuator to keep the idle RPM in spec.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-25 Thread Dieselhead
Thanks for the clue.  I may be sending you an email to see if you 
have one for sale.  Or maybe that realy and an OVP relay.


Now I think I have all the pieses out together to understand how it 
is supposed to funtion, how to find the parts, and how to diagnose it 
Man~ana.(mon-yon-a)


Kaleb sez:
 Its probably the idle control relay, Im not sure where its going to 
be on a 107, but on a 126 its between the 2 firewalls.  It will say 
8zyl on it


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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-25 Thread Dieselhead
Oh Man!  Now you went and messed up what I thought I understood!  I 
will see what I can figger out tomorrow.  Whats a PWM?  the PKW PWM, 
Of course!   I know it is on a PKW, but I don't know what the PWM Is. 
PassWordMonitor?   Ich Schpraken ze Dumkopf?





Any way to check the OVP relay, other than looking at the fuse?


Measure the voltage coming off of it?


So the wires are fed power by the OVP relay?


The computer that monitors and regulates idle speed is powered
by the OVP.  The computer (idle speed 'relay') powers the valve.

So if I could figure out which one is supposed to be hot, then jump 
+12v to it, then the idle slows down,


Usually if you power the idle actuator separately the engine dies.
It needs _some_ air at idle!  Don't try to push power in while the
relay is connected.  Unless you maybe want to fry it.  Killing the
engine with the actuator is one way to test its ability to cork off
all the way.


gets a heat signal from somewhere to close the circuit


Not that simple.  There's a microcontroller in there.  It eats
the tach signal and the idle throttle switch, and modulates the
PWM duty cycle to the idle actuator to keep the idle RPM in spec.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-25 Thread Craig
On Sat, 25 Sep 2010 14:59:52 -0500 Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Oh Man!  Now you went and messed up what I thought I understood!  I 
 will see what I can figger out tomorrow.  Whats a PWM?  the PKW PWM, 
 Of course!   I know it is on a PKW, but I don't know what the PWM Is. 
 PassWordMonitor?   Ich Schpraken ze Dumkopf?

Ja, du sprichts wie ein Dumkopf.

PWM = Pulse Width Modulation

It's a standard way to vary the average signal to something while
reducing power dissipation in the switch by having it only totally on or
totally off.


Craig

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[MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-24 Thread Dieselhead
this car seems to idle very high when it is in neutral.  It is like 
the high idle never goes to normal idle.  When you start the engine, 
it goes to about 2000 rpm and stays there.  When you put it into D or 
R, the engine slows enough to be ok.  I did not check the tach, but I 
would say 750 to 1000.  as soon as you take it out of gear, the RPMS 
go up to 2000.  Thoroughly warmed up engine...


I think I heard once that this is an electric problem to do with one 
or two relays.  Can anyone point me to the right relays?


No,  blipping the throttle does not get it off the high idle.  EVER.  TIA

Still 85 380SL

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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-24 Thread Frederick W Moir

D'head.
Air leak, or stuck idle control motor?
I know nada about the 380SL's fuel system.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.

On 9/24/2010 1:27 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
this car seems to idle very high when it is in neutral.  It is like 
the high idle never goes to normal idle.  When you start the engine, 
it goes to about 2000 rpm and stays there.  When you put it into D or 
R, the engine slows enough to be ok.  I did not check the tach, but I 
would say 750 to 1000.  as soon as you take it out of gear, the RPMS 
go up to 2000.  Thoroughly warmed up engine...


I think I heard once that this is an electric problem to do with one 
or two relays.  Can anyone point me to the right relays?


No,  blipping the throttle does not get it off the high idle.  EVER.  TIA

Still 85 380SL

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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-24 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
You're right on Fred... most likely an issue with the idle control.
The idle valve looks like this:
http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/0001411225.jpg

Take a look at it and all the rubber hoses that connect it.  Anything
dried or up cracked should be replaced. Most likely, it all needs to
be replaced, along with all the rubber vacuum line fittings.  This is
a good place to start and might cure lots of running issues with the
car.  The parts are not too expensive and you just replace each part
one at a time to avoid mixing things up.  Note that the vacuum line
arrangements are different from model year to model year, so if you
get a diagram, make sure its for a 1985 US model car only.

 I believe if you remove the idle valve and rotate it back and forth
in your hand, you should hear the valve inside open and close.  You
can try cleaning it out with your favorite spray stuff and see if it
helps.  My experience is that it doesn't work for long if you do clean
it.

There is a controller for the idle valve, but I'm not too familiar
with the specifics.

The factory service CD will be very helpful to you in diagnosing this one.

Jaime

On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 2:36 PM, Frederick W Moir fred.s...@verizon.net wrote:
 D'head.
 Air leak, or stuck idle control motor?
 I know nada about the 380SL's fuel system.
 Fred Moir
 Lynn MA
 Diesel preferred.

 On 9/24/2010 1:27 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

 this car seems to idle very high when it is in neutral.  It is like the
 high idle never goes to normal idle.  When you start the engine, it goes to
 about 2000 rpm and stays there.  When you put it into D or R, the engine
 slows enough to be ok.  I did not check the tach, but I would say 750 to
 1000.  as soon as you take it out of gear, the RPMS go up to 2000.
  Thoroughly warmed up engine...

 I think I heard once that this is an electric problem to do with one or
 two relays.  Can anyone point me to the right relays?

 No,  blipping the throttle does not get it off the high idle.  EVER.  TIA

 Still 85 380SL

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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-24 Thread Peter Frederick
Check the condition of the idle control valve, make sure it's plugged  
in, and that the hoses are good.  Clean it with brake parts cleaner  
if the hoses are bad -- block one side, fill it up, shake it a bit,  
dump out the solvent, repeat until it's not dirty after shaking.


Check for other vacuum leaks as well -- manifold gaskets, seal  
between manifold halves, air flow meter boot (that one is a pain).


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-24 Thread Jim Cathey

Idle air controller isn't able to shut down quite enough
to keep enough air out to keep the RPM's down when unloaded?
Could be air leaks, cloggy valve, or even the controller messing
up.  But if the controller _does_ work under load, it's probably
a mechanical problem.  (Unplug idle air valve, and if RPM is too
high when under load too then it's a mechanical problem.)

There is no high idle stop like on a carby car, throttle
blips do nothing.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL) OT Caravan

2010-09-24 Thread Dieselhead
I will work on the idle tomorrow or Sun afternoon.  Decided to change 
the trans oil and filter on the 00 Dogde caravan tomorrow, before I 
mess with the SL again.


Anyone BTDT on a caravan or other crypsler product?  any gotchas?  I 
think it should be as simple as on the SL, except that I don't thing 
the TC has a drain plug.


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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-24 Thread Dieselhead
Thanks for the picture.  Where is it located?  I assume somewhere 
under the massive air cleaner.  What are the connections?  are the 
small ones electric terminals or vacuum?  If the small ones are 
vacuum, then what are the large 90degree openings to?  Intake air?


I thought I was told that the OVP relay played into this somehow? 
Where is the OVP relay on a 85 380SL?  near the fuel pump relay under 
the passenger kick panel?  I think it was OVP and another relay 
Where is this idle speed motor that Fred referred to?


Once this afternoon while i drove it, the idle briefly acted like it 
was going to act correctly when i took it out of gear, then went back 
fast again immediately.




You're right on Fred... most likely an issue with the idle control.
The idle valve looks like this:
http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/0001411225.jpg

Take a look at it and all the rubber hoses that connect it.  Anything
dried or up cracked should be replaced. Most likely, it all needs to
be replaced, along with all the rubber vacuum line fittings.  This is
a good place to start and might cure lots of running issues with the
car.  The parts are not too expensive and you just replace each part
one at a time to avoid mixing things up.  Note that the vacuum line
arrangements are different from model year to model year, so if you
get a diagram, make sure its for a 1985 US model car only.

 I believe if you remove the idle valve and rotate it back and forth
in your hand, you should hear the valve inside open and close.  You
can try cleaning it out with your favorite spray stuff and see if it
helps.  My experience is that it doesn't work for long if you do clean
it.

There is a controller for the idle valve, but I'm not too familiar
with the specifics.

The factory service CD will be very helpful to you in diagnosing this one.

Jaime

On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 2:36 PM, Frederick W Moir 
fred.s...@verizon.net wrote:

 D'head.
 Air leak, or stuck idle control motor?
 I know nada about the 380SL's fuel system.
 Fred Moir
 Lynn MA
 Diesel preferred.

 On 9/24/2010 1:27 PM, Dieselhead wrote:


 this car seems to idle very high when it is in neutral.  It is like the
 high idle never goes to normal idle.  When you start the engine, it goes to
 about 2000 rpm and stays there.  When you put it into D or R, the engine
 slows enough to be ok.  I did not check the tach, but I would say 750 to
 1000.  as soon as you take it out of gear, the RPMS go up to 2000.
  Thoroughly warmed up engine...

 I think I heard once that this is an electric problem to do with one or
 two relays.  Can anyone point me to the right relays?

 No,  blipping the throttle does not get it off the high idle.  EVER.  TIA

 Still 85 380SL

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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL) OT Caravan

2010-09-24 Thread OK Don
IIRC, yes - it's as simple as the SL. I also don't think the TC has a drain
plug.

On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 9:16 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 I will work on the idle tomorrow or Sun afternoon.  Decided to change the
 trans oil and filter on the 00 Dogde caravan tomorrow, before I mess with
 the SL again.

 Anyone BTDT on a caravan or other crypsler product?  any gotchas?  I think
 it should be as simple as on the SL, except that I don't thing the TC has a
 drain plug.



-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL) OT Caravan

2010-09-24 Thread Dieselhead
Wonder if i can drill a hole in it and then thread in one of those 
self-tapping drain plugs, or even a metal building screw with the 
washer and neoprene seal.  The plug may cause an imbalance, but I 
doubt the screw would cause significant imbalance.I guess I could 
put in 2 plugs/screws 180 degrees apart.  I suppose the clearance to 
the vanes may be too close.  Anyone cut a modern TC open?




IIRC, yes - it's as simple as the SL. I also don't think the TC has a drain
plug.

On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 9:16 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:


 I will work on the idle tomorrow or Sun afternoon.  Decided to change the
 trans oil and filter on the 00 Dogde caravan tomorrow, before I mess with
 the SL again.

 Anyone BTDT on a caravan or other crypsler product?  any gotchas?  I think
 it should be as simple as on the SL, except that I don't thing the TC has a
 drain plug.




--
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-24 Thread Jim Cathey

Where is it located?  I assume somewhere under the massive air cleaner.


Yes.


What are the connections?


Two large air pipes, one to each side of the throttle plate.
Two wires.


I thought I was told that the OVP relay played into this somehow?


Idle speed computer eats OVP power.  No power equals fully
open valve equals high idle RPM.

Where is the OVP relay on a 85 380SL?  near the fuel pump relay under 
the passenger kick panel?


Think so.


Where is this idle speed motor that Fred referred to?


The solenoid valve is sometimes referred to as a motor.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Nother 107 gasser Q (380SL)

2010-09-24 Thread Dieselhead

Ah!  thanks much.  Now it is starting to make sense.

Any way to check the OVP relay, other than looking at the fuse?

So the wires are fed power by the OVP relay?  So if I could figure 
out which one is supposed to be hot, then jump +12v to it, then the 
idle slows down, I know the OVP or the other relay possibly between 
the OVP and the Idle speed control (or the wires) is bad?  an idle 
speed control relay?  gets a heat signal from somewhere to close the 
circuitfrom the OVP  to the idle speed control.


Jim,  I vote for you  as a national treasure.



Where is it located?  I assume somewhere under the massive air cleaner.


Yes.


What are the connections?


Two large air pipes, one to each side of the throttle plate.
Two wires.


I thought I was told that the OVP relay played into this somehow?


Idle speed computer eats OVP power.  No power equals fully
open valve equals high idle RPM.

Where is the OVP relay on a 85 380SL?  near the fuel pump relay 
under the passenger kick panel?


Think so.


Where is this idle speed motor that Fred referred to?


The solenoid valve is sometimes referred to as a motor.

-- Jim



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