Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch

2010-02-03 Thread OK Don
There's a rubber flex disk in all of the MB steering shafts I've looked at -
but I don't know that there isn't a direct connecting center shaft that I
can't see - having never dis-assembled one.

On Mon, Feb 1, 2010 at 1:26 PM, pm7...@comcast.net wrote:

 Buyer Beware, the force you rap the shaft with will be transmitted to the
 steering box. May or may not be good for it. One steering box would buy a
 bunch of pullers.



-- 
OK Don
Panic! (the national past time).
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Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch

2010-02-01 Thread Mitch Haley

Alex Chamberlain wrote:

Uh oh.



What was the number on it? The usual ones are 222 (purple, weak)
242 (blue, regular), 290 (green, wicking) and 271 (red, permanent), but there 
are about a dozen others.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch

2010-02-01 Thread Curt Raymond
You didn't whack yourself in the face trying to get the wheel off? Its on a 
splined shaft after all...

I'd guess if that bolt came out you'd only know about it because you'd hear the 
bolt rattling around inside the steering wheel. For the wheel to come off you'd 
have to pull on it.

-Curt

Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2010 23:21:19 -0800
From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch
Message-ID:
    f7b6bd1a1001312321v1fd0639bh64e41696a053d...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

On Sun, Jan 31, 2010 at 11:10 PM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:
 I wire-brushed it clean and slathered it with Loctite Red before
 putting it back in.

 I leave whatever's on it alone, and put it back.

 It's always plenty hard to remove the next time.


Isn't Loctite supposed to be only good for one application, though?
It never occurred to me that it would do any good once it's all dry
and crumbly and you've broken the adhesion by undoing the fastener.

I was particularly concerned about the steering wheel bolt not coming
loose by itself, for obvious reasons.

Alex


  
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Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch

2010-02-01 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Mon, Feb 1, 2010 at 6:19 AM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:
 You didn't whack yourself in the face trying to get the wheel off?
Its on a splined shaft after all...

I just held the rim loosely with one hand and tapped the back side of
the wheel gently with the BFH with the other hand.  No face-whacking.
:)

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch

2010-02-01 Thread Curt Raymond
I pulled the wheel on my 240D this morning, once its been done a couple times 
its easy, I even remembered to mark it so I can put it back on right...

My point before was I don't think theres much danger of the wheel coming off 
even if the bolt backs out. Last time I had the wheel off I didn't mark it and 
it was a bitch to get back on in exactly the right orientation. Finally I drove 
around with the bolt out. If it felt wrong I'd pull over and adjust. After 2 or 
3 adjustments I decided it felt as good as it was going to get so I put the 
bolt back in and called it good.

-Curt


Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 09:35:28 -0800
From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch
Message-ID:
    f7b6bd1a1002010935n3e382152t3e2d8b6beeeb3...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

On Mon, Feb 1, 2010 at 6:19 AM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:
 You didn't whack yourself in the face trying to get the wheel off?
Its on a splined shaft after all...

I just held the rim loosely with one hand and tapped the back side of
the wheel gently with the BFH with the other hand.  No face-whacking.
:)

Alex


  
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Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch

2010-02-01 Thread Dieselhead
Best way is to back the bolt out about 4 turns, then hold a drift pin 
on the bolt and whack the bolt with a BFH.


That way after the wheel is loose, you can take out the bolt and pull 
off the wheel without any damage from whacking or from getting a 
steering wheel in your teeth.  That is the method for unseating 
things on tapered shafts also, like tie rod ends.




On Mon, Feb 1, 2010 at 6:19 AM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 You didn't whack yourself in the face trying to get the wheel off?
Its on a splined shaft after all...


I just held the rim loosely with one hand and tapped the back side of
the wheel gently with the BFH with the other hand.  No face-whacking.
:)

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch

2010-02-01 Thread pm7088
Buyer Beware, the force you rap the shaft with will be transmitted to the 
steering box. May or may not be good for it. One steering box would buy a bunch 
of pullers. 


-- 

Peter Arnold 

Windsor, CT 

- Original Message - 
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com 
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Monday, February 1, 2010 2:05:50 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch 

Best way is to back the bolt out about 4 turns, then hold a drift pin 
on the bolt and whack the bolt with a BFH. 

That way after the wheel is loose, you can take out the bolt and pull 
off the wheel without any damage from whacking or from getting a 
steering wheel in your teeth. That is the method for unseating 
things on tapered shafts also, like tie rod ends. 


On Mon, Feb 1, 2010 at 6:19 AM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote: 
 You didn't whack yourself in the face trying to get the wheel off? 
Its on a splined shaft after all... 
 
I just held the rim loosely with one hand and tapped the back side of 
the wheel gently with the BFH with the other hand. No face-whacking. 
:) 
 
Alex 
 
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Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch

2010-02-01 Thread Jim Cathey

You didn't whack yourself in the face trying to get the wheel off?
Its on a splined shaft after all...


The secret is to leave the bolt in a few threads, then
yank on the wheel.  When it pops out to the bolt head,
take out the bolt and then lift off the wheel.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch

2010-01-31 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Mon, Jan 25, 2010 at 6:51 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have never gotten the allen head bolt off the steering column except with
 a rattle wrench.  The material is soft, and an allen socket on a breaker bar
 only distorts the allen head.  (unless it has been removed before and not
 hammered in as tight as the factory.)

 I concur with Jim.  Every turn signal stalk I have removed has been held in
 with two screws and you can thread the plug into and up the steering column
 without removing the steering wheel.  That said, I have never had to do the
 job on a 124.


Well, turns out you and Jim were right about the wheel, and Kaleb was
right about the combo switch.  I got the airbag out without blowing my
head off, though there was a bit of squirming  there as I undid the
plug and put the airbag module in a safe place well away from anything
that might short or static-ify the connectors.  I didn't use a power
impact wrench on the big hex bolt, too afraid of rounding it out.  I
gave it about ten smacks with a baby sledgehammer on the Harbor
Freight hand-held impact driver, then yanked on it with my two-foot
1/2-drive S-K breaker bar, and it came right out with the head
undamaged.  (Don't know if it was factory-tight or if someone had been
in there before, of course.)  Never seen so much threadlocker on one
fastener on a Benz, not even on suspension parts.  I wire-brushed it
clean and slathered it with Loctite Red before putting it back in.

The combo switch itself comes out as a unit with the cruise control
stalk once the wheel is off---then you can slide the two apart if you
only want to replace one.  The electrical connectors for both are
buried below the dash, above the driver's calves, so you have to pull
off the headlight switch, undo the big nut underneath (23mm IIRC), pry
out the trim there and around the keyhole, unscrew the mounts for the
parking brake lever and hood release, undo two 12mm bolts, and then
you can pull out the interior-color knee panel below the steering
column.  I'd done that before when I put in a rebuilt cruise control
amp on the '87 300D, so it was no big deal.

And now I have a working wiper again!

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch

2010-01-31 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sun, 31 Jan 2010 14:47:24 -0800 Alex Chamberlain
apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:

 I wire-brushed it clean and slathered it with Loctite Red before
 putting it back in.

Isn't the red stuff the one that does not come apart without heat while
the blue stuff is only difficult to get apart without heat?

Craig

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Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch

2010-01-31 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Sun, Jan 31, 2010 at 6:00 PM, Craig McCluskey diese...@pisquared.net wrote:
 On Sun, 31 Jan 2010 14:47:24 -0800 Alex Chamberlain
 apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:

 I wire-brushed it clean and slathered it with Loctite Red before
 putting it back in.

 Isn't the red stuff the one that does not come apart without heat while
 the blue stuff is only difficult to get apart without heat?

Uh oh.

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Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch

2010-01-31 Thread Jim Cathey

I wire-brushed it clean and slathered it with Loctite Red before
putting it back in.


I leave whatever's on it alone, and put it back.

It's always plenty hard to remove the next time.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch

2010-01-31 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Sun, Jan 31, 2010 at 11:10 PM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:
 I wire-brushed it clean and slathered it with Loctite Red before
 putting it back in.

 I leave whatever's on it alone, and put it back.

 It's always plenty hard to remove the next time.


Isn't Loctite supposed to be only good for one application, though?
It never occurred to me that it would do any good once it's all dry
and crumbly and you've broken the adhesion by undoing the fastener.

I was particularly concerned about the steering wheel bolt not coming
loose by itself, for obvious reasons.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch

2010-01-25 Thread Jim Cathey

Yes, there are two torx screws on the back of the 124 wheel I'm
looking at, too.  Easy to remove and then what?  I'm guessing it
comes out and you can easily unplug it, set it somewhere safe, then go
about removing the actual wheel?  (I have done the latter on a
pre-airbag 107... seems to me there was just one big [and VERY tight]
nut holding the wheel on.)


Exactly.  Except it's not a nut anymore, it's a big Allen-headed
bolt.  Very easy to strip the head, in relation to the nut.  I had
to chisel one out, that was no fun.  If need be, get an extra set
of hands on there to prevent the wrench slipping and ruining the
bolt head.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch

2010-01-25 Thread Dieselhead
I have never gotten the allen head bolt off the steering column 
except with a rattle wrench.  The material is soft, and an allen 
socket on a breaker bar only distorts the allen head.  (unless it has 
been removed before and not hammered in as tight as the factory.)


I concur with Jim.  Every turn signal stalk I have removed has been 
held in with two screws and you can thread the plug into and up the 
steering column without removing the steering wheel.  That said, I 
have never had to do the job on a 124.


I could not figure a way to change the brake booster on a 107 without 
removing the steering wheel or the seat.  I chose the wheel.




Yes, there are two torx screws on the back of the 124 wheel I'm
looking at, too.  Easy to remove and then what?  I'm guessing it
comes out and you can easily unplug it, set it somewhere safe, then go
about removing the actual wheel?  (I have done the latter on a
pre-airbag 107... seems to me there was just one big [and VERY tight]
nut holding the wheel on.)


Exactly.  Except it's not a nut anymore, it's a big Allen-headed
bolt.  Very easy to strip the head, in relation to the nut.  I had
to chisel one out, that was no fun.  If need be, get an extra set
of hands on there to prevent the wrench slipping and ruining the
bolt head.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch

2010-01-25 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

you have to remove the steering wheel.

Alex Chamberlain wrote:

Is there a way to RR the combo (wiper/turn signal/high beam) switch
on a 300E without pulling the steering wheel?  I thought I remembered
someone talking about that recently here, but can't find it in the
archives.  I got a junkyard switch assembly from eBay, and the combo
switch and cruise control stalk appear to be permanently attached to a
sort of mounting ring which presumably must slip over the steering
column behind the wheel---but if there's any way to avoid removing the
dreaded airbag, I'd love to know it.

Thanks,
Alex

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[MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch

2010-01-24 Thread Alex Chamberlain
Is there a way to RR the combo (wiper/turn signal/high beam) switch
on a 300E without pulling the steering wheel?  I thought I remembered
someone talking about that recently here, but can't find it in the
archives.  I got a junkyard switch assembly from eBay, and the combo
switch and cruise control stalk appear to be permanently attached to a
sort of mounting ring which presumably must slip over the steering
column behind the wheel---but if there's any way to avoid removing the
dreaded airbag, I'd love to know it.

Thanks,
Alex

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Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch

2010-01-24 Thread Jim Cathey

Is there a way to RR the combo (wiper/turn signal/high beam) switch
on a 300E without pulling the steering wheel?


I didn't think you ever had to do this.  But the airbag is
easy to remove on the 107, just two torx screws on the back
side of the wheel.  Thought the combo was held on with two
screws, and could come out from behind the wheel.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] RR of 124 combo switch

2010-01-24 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Sun, Jan 24, 2010 at 10:51 PM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:
 the airbag is
 easy to remove on the 107, just two torx screws on the back
 side of the wheel.

Yes, there are two torx screws on the back of the 124 wheel I'm
looking at, too.  Easy to remove and then what?  I'm guessing it
comes out and you can easily unplug it, set it somewhere safe, then go
about removing the actual wheel?  (I have done the latter on a
pre-airbag 107... seems to me there was just one big [and VERY tight]
nut holding the wheel on.)

Alex

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