Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearing replacement

2010-11-25 Thread Curt Raymond
I can't take full credit for it, I'd read about using weld as a way to get 
pistons out of stuck tractor engines. In fact at some point I'm probably going 
to need to do it on my 1928 Farmall.
-Curt
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 15:41:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearing replacement
Message-ID: 112675.23627...@web113201.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Creative solution!

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 24, 2010, at 5:21 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

I had the exact same problem on a 201 a couple years ago. I ran a bead of weld 
across the race in 3 or 4 places. The theory is when the weld cools it'll 
contract and pull the race in with it. Seemed to work in my case.

-Curt



  
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearing replacement

2010-11-25 Thread Peter Frederick
Easy way to get pressed in sleeves out, too, although you must be  
VERY careful to avoid significant penetration of the weld to avoid  
welding the sleeve to the block rather than shrinking it.


MB wheel bearings will always drive out.  The factory tool helps  
quite a bit on tight ones, but a good soft steel punch works great.   
Not a hardened steel one, not a brass or aluminum one, just a soft  
steel punch ground straight across.


Make sure you put the new race in right way 'round -- it's MUCH  
harder to get out when there is no lip to drive against.  Don't ask  
how I know this


Peter

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[MBZ] Wheel bearing replacement

2010-11-24 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
I'm trying to replace the front wheel bearing on my 71 280SL and I'm having a 
hard time driving out the smaller race (the one closer to the lock nut). I 
tried with a brass punch but the harder metal of the race chewed it up. I then 
tried a pin punch for driving out brake pad retaining pins but it just slips as 
the edge profile of the race is not enough to get a good grip. Any other tips? 
Does putting the hub in the freezer help?


  

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearing replacement

2010-11-24 Thread Mitch Haley

Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

I'm trying to replace the front wheel bearing on my 71 280SL and I'm having a 
hard time driving out the smaller race (the one closer to the lock nut). I 
tried with a brass punch but the harder metal of the race chewed it up. I then 
tried a pin punch for driving out brake pad retaining pins but it just slips as 
the edge profile of the race is not enough to get a good grip. Any other tips? 
Does putting the hub in the freezer help?


Not the voice of experience here, but I'd be tempted to hit the housing with a 
torch, and then hit the race with liquid CO2 or propane, see if it falls out.


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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearing replacement

2010-11-24 Thread R A Bennell
So, let me get this straight - heat it up red hot - hit it with propane 
- blow it right out of the hole??


Randy


On 24/11/2010 11:32 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:

Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
I'm trying to replace the front wheel bearing on my 71 280SL and I'm 
having a hard time driving out the smaller race (the one closer to 
the lock nut). I tried with a brass punch but the harder metal of the 
race chewed it up. I then tried a pin punch for driving out brake pad 
retaining pins but it just slips as the edge profile of the race is 
not enough to get a good grip. Any other tips? Does putting the hub 
in the freezer help?


Not the voice of experience here, but I'd be tempted to hit the 
housing with a torch, and then hit the race with liquid CO2 or 
propane, see if it falls out.


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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearing replacement

2010-11-24 Thread Mitch Haley

R A Bennell wrote:
So, let me get this straight - heat it up red hot - hit it with propane 
- blow it right out of the hole??


CO2 would be safer. I wouldn't heat it to glowing and then hold a propane torch 
upside down over it.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearing replacement

2010-11-24 Thread Craig
On Wed, 24 Nov 2010 13:25:49 -0600 R A Bennell b...@mts.net wrote:

 So, let me get this straight - heat it up red hot - hit it with propane 
 - blow it right out of the hole??


Sounds like it could get exciting! :-)

I think Mitch was thinking of the propane for its cold properties,
forgetting about its flammable properties.

In any even, red hot is much too hot.


Craig


 On 24/11/2010 11:32 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:
  Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
  I'm trying to replace the front wheel bearing on my 71 280SL and I'm 
  having a hard time driving out the smaller race (the one closer to 
  the lock nut). I tried with a brass punch but the harder metal of
  the race chewed it up. I then tried a pin punch for driving out
  brake pad retaining pins but it just slips as the edge profile of
  the race is not enough to get a good grip. Any other tips? Does
  putting the hub in the freezer help?
 
  Not the voice of experience here, but I'd be tempted to hit the 
  housing with a torch, and then hit the race with liquid CO2 or 
  propane, see if it falls out.
 
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  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 
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Craig

--
Present:'94 E420117 kmi
'82 240D/3.0264 kmi
Past:   '86 190E/2.3
'72 220/8
'72 220D/8
'64 190Dc

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearing replacement

2010-11-24 Thread R A Bennell
Yeah, I was just having a bit of fun with the idea ( at his expense 
perhaps).


Randy

On 24/11/2010 1:48 PM, Craig wrote:

On Wed, 24 Nov 2010 13:25:49 -0600 R A Bennellb...@mts.net  wrote:


So, let me get this straight - heat it up red hot - hit it with propane
- blow it right out of the hole??


Sounds like it could get exciting! :-)

I think Mitch was thinking of the propane for its cold properties,
forgetting about its flammable properties.

In any even, red hot is much too hot.


Craig



On 24/11/2010 11:32 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:

Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

I'm trying to replace the front wheel bearing on my 71 280SL and I'm
having a hard time driving out the smaller race (the one closer to
the lock nut). I tried with a brass punch but the harder metal of
the race chewed it up. I then tried a pin punch for driving out
brake pad retaining pins but it just slips as the edge profile of
the race is not enough to get a good grip. Any other tips? Does
putting the hub in the freezer help?

Not the voice of experience here, but I'd be tempted to hit the
housing with a torch, and then hit the race with liquid CO2 or
propane, see if it falls out.

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Craig

--
Present:'94 E420117 kmi
'82 240D/3.0264 kmi
Past:   '86 190E/2.3
'72 220/8
'72 220D/8
'64 190Dc

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearing replacement

2010-11-24 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Well I managed to get the race out. I pounded on it with the tip of a large 
screwdriver. The bearing was making an awful sound but it didn't look all that 
bad when I got it apart. The smaller race definitely had some bluing but no 
blatant scoring or pitting. I hope this was the problem.  Hopefully it's not 
some other non bearing related thing that I'm not aware of.

Sent from my iPhone 

On Nov 24, 2010, at 2:55 PM, R A Bennell b...@mts.net wrote:

Yeah, I was just having a bit of fun with the idea ( at his expense perhaps).

Randy

On 24/11/2010 1:48 PM, Craig wrote:
On Wed, 24 Nov 2010 13:25:49 -0600 R A Bennellb...@mts.net  wrote:

So, let me get this straight - heat it up red hot - hit it with propane
- blow it right out of the hole??

Sounds like it could get exciting! :-)

I think Mitch was thinking of the propane for its cold properties,
forgetting about its flammable properties.

In any even, red hot is much too hot.


Craig


On 24/11/2010 11:32 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:
Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
I'm trying to replace the front wheel bearing on my 71 280SL and I'm
having a hard time driving out the smaller race (the one closer to
the lock nut). I tried with a brass punch but the harder metal of
the race chewed it up. I then tried a pin punch for driving out
brake pad retaining pins but it just slips as the edge profile of
the race is not enough to get a good grip. Any other tips? Does
putting the hub in the freezer help?
Not the voice of experience here, but I'd be tempted to hit the
housing with a torch, and then hit the race with liquid CO2 or
propane, see if it falls out.

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Craig

--
Present:'94 E420117 kmi
   '82 240D/3.0264 kmi
Past:'86 190E/2.3
   '72 220/8
   '72 220D/8
   '64 190Dc

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearing replacement

2010-11-24 Thread Gerry Archer

Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
I'm trying to replace the front wheel bearing on my 71 280SL and I'm 
having a hard time driving out the smaller race (the one closer to the 
lock nut). I tried with a brass punch but the harder metal of the race 
chewed it up. I then tried a pin punch for driving out brake pad 
retaining pins but it just slips as the edge profile of the race is not 
enough to get a good grip. Any other tips? Does putting the hub in the 
freezer help?


Not the voice of experience here, but I'd be tempted to hit the housing 
with a torch, and then hit the race with liquid CO2 or propane, see if it 
falls out.

Mitch
___
Never did an SL, but on other cars I ground a slightly angled flat on the 
end of a long drift punch and used the sharper edge of the punch to gently 
tap the outer race all the way around; tapping the opposite sides 
alternately.  If I was installing a new bearing, I tapped much harder with a 
bigger hammer.  Never failed to get one out that way, but there is always a 
first time of course.  If the bearing had run hot, I soaked it with WD-40 
and Rust Eater (from Autozone) for several hours, and then with light 
machine oil for an hour or so.  If the bearing was stuck hard, I sometimes 
had to grind the end of the punch several times.

Good luck,
Gerry
'83 300D and 240D 



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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearing replacement

2010-11-24 Thread Peter Frederick
Use a soft steel punch.  You may need to sharpen  it a couple times  
by grinding it flat on the end.


Timken bearings are great, but the races are a tight, tight fit.

DO NOT heat the hub with a torch

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearing replacement

2010-11-24 Thread Curt Raymond
I had the exact same problem on a 201 a couple years ago. I ran a bead of weld 
across the race in 3 or 4 places. The theory is when the weld cools it'll 
contract and pull the race in with it. Seemed to work in my case.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 09:27:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Wheel bearing replacement
Message-ID: 893836.8557...@web113205.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I'm
 trying to replace the front wheel bearing on my 71 280SL and I'm having
 a hard time driving out the smaller race (the one closer to the lock 
nut). I tried with a brass punch but the harder metal of the race chewed
 it up. I then tried a pin punch for driving out brake pad retaining 
pins but it just slips as the edge profile of the race is not enough to 
get a good grip. Any other tips? Does putting the hub in the freezer 
help?



  
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearing replacement

2010-11-24 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Creative solution!

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 24, 2010, at 5:21 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

I had the exact same problem on a 201 a couple years ago. I ran a bead of weld 
across the race in 3 or 4 places. The theory is when the weld cools it'll 
contract and pull the race in with it. Seemed to work in my case.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 09:27:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Wheel bearing replacement
Message-ID: 893836.8557...@web113205.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I'm
trying to replace the front wheel bearing on my 71 280SL and I'm having
a hard time driving out the smaller race (the one closer to the lock 
nut). I tried with a brass punch but the harder metal of the race chewed
it up. I then tried a pin punch for driving out brake pad retaining 
pins but it just slips as the edge profile of the race is not enough to 
get a good grip. Any other tips? Does putting the hub in the freezer 
help?




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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearing replacement

2010-11-24 Thread Jim Cathey

I ran a bead of weld across the race in 3 or 4 places.


Old, old farmer's trick.  Supposedly works great.

-- Jim



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