Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-04 Thread Gerry Archer


- Original Message - 
From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 11:46 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D



On Tue, 3 Sep 2013 23:37:46 -0400 Gerry Archer
arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:


..
What I thought about doing was putting the jumpers between the
batteries just like I was jumpstarting the car.  Then I start the car
with the questionable battery/alternator.  Leaving the negative jumper
attached to the negative cable on the questionable battery, I remove
the negative cable from that battery and wrap plastic around it to
insulate it. That way the alternator is attached only to the good
battery in the other car.  If the meter sees 13.7v, the alternator
should be good and the questionable battery identified as being the
problem.  I have negative to negative and positive to positive with the
questionable battery out of the picture.  Wouldn't that work?


Yes, that would work.
But what if you slip?
Craig


Used to doing that.  If so, just start over with new diodes, new regulator, 
new alternator, new battery, new car; whatever it takes. (grin)
Gerry 



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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-04 Thread Gerry Archer




Gerry wrote:
Can someone tell me where the wire from the buss to the battery
connects to the positive battery cable so I can check it's
continuity and clean the connection?


Better - or more accurate - than measuring continuity is to measure
voltage drop.  After starting the engine (so the battery needs a
bit of charging) measure the voltage with one lead on the battery
+ terminal and the other on the big wire at the alternator.  If
there is more than 0.25 V drop, it's worth a closer look.

--   Philip


Good idea; didn't think of that.  I'll try it tomorrow.
Gerry

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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-04 Thread Curt Raymond
I was under the impression running an alternator with no battery was a great 
way to kill an alternator...

-Curt

Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 21:25:08 -0400
From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
Message-ID: 0D77DF0B9AD14B7289022D369A0AA372@PC466116028214
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
    reply-type=original

I do have heavy cables but won't be using them to start the 300D.  I'll 
start the 300D with its battery and then disconnect it and hook the 300D 
cables to the jumpers and the other end of the jumpers to the disconnected 
240D battery.  There will probably be a voltage drop but I should be able to 
see if the alternator is charging.  Does that make sense?
Gerry
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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-04 Thread Gerry Archer

The (bad?) battery still starts the car, so I'll use it for starting.  The
jumpers will only carry the current from the alternator to the good battery
and vice versa.

From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com

If you are saying you are going to use your jumper cables in between the
240 battery and the 300 cables and starter yhen you better have a big set
of cables.  Like welding cable.  Otherwise you will burn them up and not
answer your question.  Better to just swap out the batteries and see if
the
issue follows the battery from the 300.

Mike
On Sep 3, 2013 2:21 PM, Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:


That's a good idea, Richard.  I'll put the 240D and the 300D side by side
and jumper with all the cables off.  I know the 240D battery is good.
Batteries are both group 49.
Thanks,
Gerry

From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
Like everybody else has said, please change the battery before you go to
all that trouble. You could even just use some jumper cables and clamp
another one in parallel to the toasted one to prove your point. Much
easier
than messing with regulators and drill presses (c:

Thanks to Rick, Richard, and Loren for your advice; and to Fred for the
connector which arrived in good order. Going to wire it up and try it
again. If the connector wasn't the problem, will put a good regulator in
and try it. If that doesn't work, will chuck the 3 used alternators in
the
drill press one at a time and try the half dozen regulators (hooked to
the
12 volt shop battery) until I find a good combination. If that doesn't
work, I'll assume that the battery, (which had boiled out most of its
water
in one cell), is at fault and get FLAPS to put in a new battery which
they
agree to do at my option.

Gerrymostly talking to myself



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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-04 Thread Gerry Archer

I'll start the car with the (bad?) battery which still starts it okay, clamp
the jumper from the other car on the cable and then remove the cable from
the (bad?) battery.  That way the alternator won't be running without a
battery connection.
Gerry

I was under the impression running an alternator with no battery was a great
way to kill an alternator...

-Curt

Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 21:25:08 -0400
From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
Message-ID: 0D77DF0B9AD14B7289022D369A0AA372@PC466116028214
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
reply-type=original

I do have heavy cables but won't be using them to start the 300D. I'll
start the 300D with its battery and then disconnect it and hook the 300D
cables to the jumpers and the other end of the jumpers to the disconnected
240D battery. There will probably be a voltage drop but I should be able to
see if the alternator is charging. Does that make sense?
Gerry
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Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3222/6138 - Release Date: 09/04/13



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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-04 Thread Michael Canfield
Should work but still seems like the more complicated way of doing it to me.

Mike
On Sep 4, 2013 11:16 AM, Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 I'll start the car with the (bad?) battery which still starts it okay,
 clamp
 the jumper from the other car on the cable and then remove the cable from
 the (bad?) battery.  That way the alternator won't be running without a
 battery connection.
 Gerry

 I was under the impression running an alternator with no battery was a
 great
 way to kill an alternator...

 -Curt

 Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 21:25:08 -0400
 From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
 Message-ID: **0D77DF0B9AD14B7289022D369A0AA3**72@PC466116028214
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original

 I do have heavy cables but won't be using them to start the 300D. I'll
 start the 300D with its battery and then disconnect it and hook the 300D
 cables to the jumpers and the other end of the jumpers to the disconnected
 240D battery. There will probably be a voltage drop but I should be able to
 see if the alternator is charging. Does that make sense?
 Gerry
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 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3222/6138 - Release Date: 09/04/13



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Re: [MBZ] ... Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-04 Thread Craig
Gerry,

We now have three NEW threads discussing your '83 300D alternator,

  one with the subject [MBZ] . Alternator question '83 300D
  one with the subject [MBZ] .. Alternator question '83 300D
  one with the subject [MBZ] ... Alternator question '83 300D

That causes problems with people trying to follow what is being said.


On Wed, 4 Sep 2013 10:29:29 -0400 Gerry Archer
arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Does the voltage that excites the field via the smaller (green?) wire
 always show 12v or whatever the charging voltage is, or does it vary?
 I saw full 12v when the key was on and the engine not running but
 wondered if the green wire voltage regulated the alternator output in
 some way by varying the voltage.
 Gerry

No, the voltage on the green wire will follow what the battery and the
alternator are doing. If the alternator is properly charging the battery,
it can go up to 14.4 volts. If the alternator is not charging the battery
and the battery gets discharged, it can go below 10 volts.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-04 Thread Richard Hattaway
Mike, 

I don't assume someone is stupid.  If you re-read your comment, the one I 
reacted to, you will find you offer nothing positive, and that the post itself 
only inserts a modicum of fear about the test.  In essence, you attack the 
concept offered by someone as being asinine.  

If you want to offer some constructive suggestions, fine.  If you want to run 
around screaming the sky is falling, it does no one any good.  Plain and simple.

Richard





 From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2013 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
 

Mr. Hattaway, maybe you should not assume folks are stupid.  Been a
mechanic over 25 years.  You try starting even a good starting Diesel with
the average set of cables people use these days and a bad battery and you
are going to burn up the cables.  They are meant to charge first, then
start.  Heavy cables are not cheap and most people do not own a $100 set of
jumper cables capable of starting a Diesel.  Yes, charging only isn't a big
deal and completely safe as long as he is careful.  Not even really likely
to damage the diodes swapping terminals as long as nothing is crossed.

Mike
Who is trying to be of help and takes offense to being told he is an idiot,
in so many words.
On Sep 3, 2013 5:04 PM, Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com wrote:

 What kind of claim is this???

 Jumper cables are like welding cable.  At least good ones are.  The two
 batteries are running 12 volts float.  There is little likelihood of
 anything other than minor charging going on between the two batteries,
 since he said he's disconnecting the 'good' vehicles cabling.

 This is nothing more than jump starting the car as far as the cables are
 concerned.  Nothing is going to burn up here.

 In fact, what will probably happen is the alternator will begin charging
 the newly introduced battery since the questionable one was run dry, thus
 has a high resistance cell eliminating the ability for the battery to be
 charged by the alternator.  He's looking for 13.7 out of the alternator
 which is correct, and should be achieved if A) the alternator is capable of
 charging, and B) the battery is able to be charged.

 It's a simple test, takes seconds, and is accurate.  It can be done in
 business clothes.  It eliminates or proves half of the A) and B) above.
 There is no chance of meltdown or fire any more than there is during any
 jump start situation.

 Please be accurate and thoughtful with your posts before making some wild
 comment about burning up cables, etc.  Someone here might think you know
 what you're talking about.





 
  From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 3:48 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D


 If you are saying you are going to use your jumper cables in between the
 240 battery and the 300 cables and starter yhen you better have a big set
 of cables.  Like welding cable.  Otherwise you will burn them up and not
 answer your question.  Better to just swap out the batteries and see if the
 issue follows the battery from the 300.

 Mike
 On Sep 3, 2013 2:21 PM, Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:

  That's a good idea, Richard.  I'll put the 240D and the 300D side by side
  and jumper with all the cables off.  I know the 240D battery is good.
  Batteries are both group 49.
  Thanks,
  Gerry
 
  From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
  Like everybody else has said, please change the battery before you go to
  all that trouble. You could even just use some jumper cables and clamp
  another one in parallel to the toasted one to prove your point. Much
 easier
  than messing with regulators and drill presses (c:
 
  Thanks to Rick, Richard, and Loren for your advice; and to Fred for the
  connector which arrived in good order. Going to wire it up and try it
  again. If the connector wasn't the problem, will put a good regulator in
  and try it. If that doesn't work, will chuck the 3 used alternators in
 the
  drill press one at a time and try the half dozen regulators (hooked to
 the
  12 volt shop battery) until I find a good combination. If that doesn't
  work, I'll assume that the battery, (which had boiled out most of its
 water
  in one cell), is at fault and get FLAPS to put in a new battery which
 they
  agree to do at my option.
 
  Gerrymostly talking to myself
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-04 Thread Michael Canfield
That is exactly it.

Mike
On Sep 4, 2013 1:08 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I think it was Please be accurate and thoughtful with your posts before
 making some wild comment about burning up cables, etc. Someone here might
 think you know what you're talking about.

 In which you say You don't know what you're talking about which is
 pretty harsh since I agree that trying to start the car with normal
 lightweight jumper cables at best probably isn't going to work and at worst
 is going to burn through the cables and possibly start a fire...

 -Curt

 Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2013 09:12:08 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
 Message-ID:
 1378311128.87060.yahoomail...@web161005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

 Mike,

 I don't assume someone is stupid.? If you re-read your comment, the one I
 reacted to, you will find you offer nothing positive, and that the post
 itself only inserts a modicum of fear about the test.? In essence, you
 attack the concept offered by someone as being asinine.?

 If you want to offer some constructive suggestions, fine.? If you want to
 run around screaming the sky is falling, it does no one any good.? Plain
 and simple.

 Richard
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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-04 Thread Richard Hattaway
Has anyone ever seen a fire from jumper cables in anything other than a dream?

Sure, we've all gotten them warm enough to make the insulation tacky, but I am 
under the assumption that if someone is capable of making an alternator test 
station from a drill press he is also capable of looking after his well-being 
when he's using jumper cables.

Lets give Gerry a bit of credit here.  I bet he can spot hot jumper cables.  
All I wanted to do was make a suggestion that he could save the ass busting 
clothes staining work of moving a big ole diesel battery from one car to 
another by using jumper cables in a charging test.  He apparently had no 
problem starting the car.


First thing I know, someone comes screaming into the room that there's gonna be 
a fire.  Now *really*??  If the long term mechanics on the list have actually 
caught jumper cables on fire then they really ought to consider a new line of 
work.  Thus my comment.  

If I hurt someone's feelings, I apologize.  That is not my intention.  I will 
respond to an exaggerated response.  The claim of a fire is an exaggerated 
response.

My time on this thread is done.  Hope Gerry gets his alternator issue solved.





 From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2013 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
 

That is exactly it.

Mike
On Sep 4, 2013 1:08 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I think it was Please be accurate and thoughtful with your posts before
 making some wild comment about burning up cables, etc. Someone here might
 think you know what you're talking about.

 In which you say You don't know what you're talking about which is
 pretty harsh since I
 agree that trying to start the car with normal
 lightweight jumper cables at best probably isn't going to work and at worst
 is going to burn through the cables and possibly start a fire...

 -Curt

 Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2013 09:12:08 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
 Message-ID:
     1378311128.87060.yahoomail...@web161005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com
 Content-Type: text/plain;
 charset=iso-8859-1

 Mike,

 I don't assume someone is stupid.? If you re-read your comment, the one I
 reacted to, you will find you offer nothing positive, and that the post
 itself only inserts a modicum of fear about the test.? In essence, you
 attack the concept offered by someone as being asinine.?

 If you want to offer some constructive suggestions, fine.? If you want to
 run around screaming the sky is falling, it does no one any good.? Plain
 and simple.

 Richard
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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-04 Thread Curt Raymond
Back years ago my '83 240D went through about 5 alternators in a year. Finally 
when we hit cold weather (around freezing) I realized the battery wasn't 
putting out all that much power, enough to start the car but just barely. I 
replaced it and that last alternator lasted another 35,000 miles until the car 
got junked.

This year my 190D started eating alternators. I got smarter this time, after 
the 3rd one I replaced the battery. We'll see how the alt lasts...

-Curt

Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2013 11:15:41 -0400
From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
Message-ID: 69E9FD2927A746AEA0EF2A7F6231CD49@PC466116028214
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
    reply-type=original

The (bad?) battery still starts the car, so I'll use it for starting.  The
jumpers will only carry the current from the alternator to the good battery
and vice versa.
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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-04 Thread Mike Esh
I agree with Canfield,  Richard came on way to strong. 

Michael E. Esh
231-286-2344


On Sep 4, 2013, at 1:54 PM, Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com wrote:

 Has anyone ever seen a fire from jumper cables in anything other than a dream?
 
 Sure, we've all gotten them warm enough to make the insulation tacky, but I 
 am under the assumption that if someone is capable of making an alternator 
 test station from a drill press he is also capable of looking after his 
 well-being when he's using jumper cables.
 
 Lets give Gerry a bit of credit here.  I bet he can spot hot jumper cables.  
 All I wanted to do was make a suggestion that he could save the ass busting 
 clothes staining work of moving a big ole diesel battery from one car to 
 another by using jumper cables in a charging test.  He apparently had no 
 problem starting the car.
 
 
 First thing I know, someone comes screaming into the room that there's gonna 
 be a fire.  Now *really*??  If the long term mechanics on the list have 
 actually caught jumper cables on fire then they really ought to consider a 
 new line of work.  Thus my comment.  
 
 If I hurt someone's feelings, I apologize.  That is not my intention.  I will 
 respond to an exaggerated response.  The claim of a fire is an exaggerated 
 response.
 
 My time on this thread is done.  Hope Gerry gets his alternator issue solved.
 
 
 
 
 
 From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2013 1:22 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
 
 
 That is exactly it.
 
 Mike
 On Sep 4, 2013 1:08 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 I think it was Please be accurate and thoughtful with your posts before
 making some wild comment about burning up cables, etc. Someone here might
 think you know what you're talking about.
 
 In which you say You don't know what you're talking about which is
 pretty harsh since I
 agree that trying to start the car with normal
 lightweight jumper cables at best probably isn't going to work and at worst
 is going to burn through the cables and possibly start a fire...
 
 -Curt
 
 Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2013 09:12:08 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
 Message-ID:
  1378311128.87060.yahoomail...@web161005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com
 Content-Type: text/plain;
 charset=iso-8859-1
 
 Mike,
 
 I don't assume someone is stupid.? If you re-read your comment, the one I
 reacted to, you will find you offer nothing positive, and that the post
 itself only inserts a modicum of fear about the test.? In essence, you
 attack the concept offered by someone as being asinine.?
 
 If you want to offer some constructive suggestions, fine.? If you want to
 run around screaming the sky is falling, it does no one any good.? Plain
 and simple.
 
 Richard
 ___
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-04 Thread Michael Canfield
I said burn up...as in ruin the cables.  Not set fire to the car and
burn down the neighborhood.  You need to relax a bit.

Mike
On Sep 4, 2013 1:54 PM, Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com wrote:

 Has anyone ever seen a fire from jumper cables in anything other than a
 dream?

 Sure, we've all gotten them warm enough to make the insulation tacky, but
 I am under the assumption that if someone is capable of making an
 alternator test station from a drill press he is also capable of looking
 after his well-being when he's using jumper cables.

 Lets give Gerry a bit of credit here.  I bet he can spot hot jumper
 cables.  All I wanted to do was make a suggestion that he could save the
 ass busting clothes staining work of moving a big ole diesel battery from
 one car to another by using jumper cables in a charging test.  He
 apparently had no problem starting the car.


 First thing I know, someone comes screaming into the room that there's
 gonna be a fire.  Now *really*??  If the long term mechanics on the list
 have actually caught jumper cables on fire then they really ought to
 consider a new line of work.  Thus my comment.

 If I hurt someone's feelings, I apologize.  That is not my intention.  I
 will respond to an exaggerated response.  The claim of a fire is an
 exaggerated response.

 My time on this thread is done.  Hope Gerry gets his alternator issue
 solved.




 
  From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2013 1:22 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D


 That is exactly it.

 Mike
 On Sep 4, 2013 1:08 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

  I think it was Please be accurate and thoughtful with your posts before
  making some wild comment about burning up cables, etc. Someone here might
  think you know what you're talking about.
 
  In which you say You don't know what you're talking about which is
  pretty harsh since I
  agree that trying to start the car with normal
  lightweight jumper cables at best probably isn't going to work and at
 worst
  is going to burn through the cables and possibly start a fire...
 
  -Curt
 
  Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2013 09:12:08 -0700 (PDT)
  From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
  Message-ID:
  1378311128.87060.yahoomail...@web161005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com
  Content-Type: text/plain;
  charset=iso-8859-1
 
  Mike,
 
  I don't assume someone is stupid.? If you re-read your comment, the one I
  reacted to, you will find you offer nothing positive, and that the post
  itself only inserts a modicum of fear about the test.? In essence, you
  attack the concept offered by someone as being asinine.?
 
  If you want to offer some constructive suggestions, fine.? If you want to
  run around screaming the sky is falling, it does no one any good.? Plain
  and simple.
 
  Richard
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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-04 Thread Michael Canfield
I saidif.he was using the starter he better have bigger cables than
most folks have.  Simple facts my friend. The wire in a 4ga. set of cables
will not hold up to the current draw from the starter and may burn up when
trying to start a Diesel engine without the battery in the vehicle to be
started supplying some of the current.

I say that is a fair safety warning, not trying to scare anyone.  I have
burnt up cheap cables doing just what I warned about.

Mike

Mike
On Sep 4, 2013 12:12 PM, Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
wrote:

 Mike,

 I don't assume someone is stupid.  If you re-read your comment, the one I
 reacted to, you will find you offer nothing positive, and that the post
 itself only inserts a modicum of fear about the test.  In essence, you
 attack the concept offered by someone as being asinine.

 If you want to offer some constructive suggestions, fine.  If you want to
 run around screaming the sky is falling, it does no one any good.  Plain
 and simple.

 Richard




 
  From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2013 10:49 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D


 Mr. Hattaway, maybe you should not assume folks are stupid.  Been a
 mechanic over 25 years.  You try starting even a good starting Diesel with
 the average set of cables people use these days and a bad battery and you
 are going to burn up the cables.  They are meant to charge first, then
 start.  Heavy cables are not cheap and most people do not own a $100 set of
 jumper cables capable of starting a Diesel.  Yes, charging only isn't a big
 deal and completely safe as long as he is careful.  Not even really likely
 to damage the diodes swapping terminals as long as nothing is crossed.

 Mike
 Who is trying to be of help and takes offense to being told he is an idiot,
 in so many words.
 On Sep 3, 2013 5:04 PM, Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
 wrote:

  What kind of claim is this???
 
  Jumper cables are like welding cable.  At least good ones are.  The two
  batteries are running 12 volts float.  There is little likelihood of
  anything other than minor charging going on between the two batteries,
  since he said he's disconnecting the 'good' vehicles cabling.
 
  This is nothing more than jump starting the car as far as the cables are
  concerned.  Nothing is going to burn up here.
 
  In fact, what will probably happen is the alternator will begin charging
  the newly introduced battery since the questionable one was run dry, thus
  has a high resistance cell eliminating the ability for the battery to be
  charged by the alternator.  He's looking for 13.7 out of the alternator
  which is correct, and should be achieved if A) the alternator is capable
 of
  charging, and B) the battery is able to be charged.
 
  It's a simple test, takes seconds, and is accurate.  It can be done in
  business clothes.  It eliminates or proves half of the A) and B) above.
  There is no chance of meltdown or fire any more than there is during any
  jump start situation.
 
  Please be accurate and thoughtful with your posts before making some wild
  comment about burning up cables, etc.  Someone here might think you know
  what you're talking about.
 
 
 
 
 
  
   From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 3:48 PM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
 
 
  If you are saying you are going to use your jumper cables in between the
  240 battery and the 300 cables and starter yhen you better have a big set
  of cables.  Like welding cable.  Otherwise you will burn them up and not
  answer your question.  Better to just swap out the batteries and see if
 the
  issue follows the battery from the 300.
 
  Mike
  On Sep 3, 2013 2:21 PM, Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 
   That's a good idea, Richard.  I'll put the 240D and the 300D side by
 side
   and jumper with all the cables off.  I know the 240D battery is good.
   Batteries are both group 49.
   Thanks,
   Gerry
  
   From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
   Like everybody else has said, please change the battery before you go
 to
   all that trouble. You could even just use some jumper cables and clamp
   another one in parallel to the toasted one to prove your point. Much
  easier
   than messing with regulators and drill presses (c:
  
   Thanks to Rick, Richard, and Loren for your advice; and to Fred for the
   connector which arrived in good order. Going to wire it up and try it
   again. If the connector wasn't the problem, will put a good regulator
 in
   and try it. If that doesn't work, will chuck the 3 used alternators in
  the
   drill press one at a time and try the half dozen regulators (hooked to
  the
   12 volt shop battery) until I find a good combination. If that
 doesn't

Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-04 Thread Curt Raymond
I think it was Please be accurate and thoughtful with your posts before making 
some wild comment about burning up cables, etc. Someone here might think you 
know what you're talking about.

In which you say You don't know what you're talking about which is pretty 
harsh since I agree that trying to start the car with normal lightweight jumper 
cables at best probably isn't going to work and at worst is going to burn 
through the cables and possibly start a fire...

-Curt

Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2013 09:12:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
Message-ID:
    1378311128.87060.yahoomail...@web161005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Mike, 

I don't assume someone is stupid.? If you re-read your comment, the one I 
reacted to, you will find you offer nothing positive, and that the post itself 
only inserts a modicum of fear about the test.? In essence, you attack the 
concept offered by someone as being asinine.? 

If you want to offer some constructive suggestions, fine.? If you want to run 
around screaming the sky is falling, it does no one any good.? Plain and simple.

Richard
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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-04 Thread Michael Canfield
Mr. Hattaway, maybe you should not assume folks are stupid.  Been a
mechanic over 25 years.  You try starting even a good starting Diesel with
the average set of cables people use these days and a bad battery and you
are going to burn up the cables.  They are meant to charge first, then
start.  Heavy cables are not cheap and most people do not own a $100 set of
jumper cables capable of starting a Diesel.  Yes, charging only isn't a big
deal and completely safe as long as he is careful.  Not even really likely
to damage the diodes swapping terminals as long as nothing is crossed.

Mike
Who is trying to be of help and takes offense to being told he is an idiot,
in so many words.
On Sep 3, 2013 5:04 PM, Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com wrote:

 What kind of claim is this???

 Jumper cables are like welding cable.  At least good ones are.  The two
 batteries are running 12 volts float.  There is little likelihood of
 anything other than minor charging going on between the two batteries,
 since he said he's disconnecting the 'good' vehicles cabling.

 This is nothing more than jump starting the car as far as the cables are
 concerned.  Nothing is going to burn up here.

 In fact, what will probably happen is the alternator will begin charging
 the newly introduced battery since the questionable one was run dry, thus
 has a high resistance cell eliminating the ability for the battery to be
 charged by the alternator.  He's looking for 13.7 out of the alternator
 which is correct, and should be achieved if A) the alternator is capable of
 charging, and B) the battery is able to be charged.

 It's a simple test, takes seconds, and is accurate.  It can be done in
 business clothes.  It eliminates or proves half of the A) and B) above.
 There is no chance of meltdown or fire any more than there is during any
 jump start situation.

 Please be accurate and thoughtful with your posts before making some wild
 comment about burning up cables, etc.  Someone here might think you know
 what you're talking about.





 
  From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 3:48 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D


 If you are saying you are going to use your jumper cables in between the
 240 battery and the 300 cables and starter yhen you better have a big set
 of cables.  Like welding cable.  Otherwise you will burn them up and not
 answer your question.  Better to just swap out the batteries and see if the
 issue follows the battery from the 300.

 Mike
 On Sep 3, 2013 2:21 PM, Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:

  That's a good idea, Richard.  I'll put the 240D and the 300D side by side
  and jumper with all the cables off.  I know the 240D battery is good.
  Batteries are both group 49.
  Thanks,
  Gerry
 
  From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
  Like everybody else has said, please change the battery before you go to
  all that trouble. You could even just use some jumper cables and clamp
  another one in parallel to the toasted one to prove your point. Much
 easier
  than messing with regulators and drill presses (c:
 
  Thanks to Rick, Richard, and Loren for your advice; and to Fred for the
  connector which arrived in good order. Going to wire it up and try it
  again. If the connector wasn't the problem, will put a good regulator in
  and try it. If that doesn't work, will chuck the 3 used alternators in
 the
  drill press one at a time and try the half dozen regulators (hooked to
 the
  12 volt shop battery) until I find a good combination. If that doesn't
  work, I'll assume that the battery, (which had boiled out most of its
 water
  in one cell), is at fault and get FLAPS to put in a new battery which
 they
  agree to do at my option.
 
  Gerrymostly talking to myself
 
 
 
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 http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-04 Thread Curt Raymond
There you go again, you passive aggressive or what?

Do you not recognize that your very first line is looking for a fight? If you 
talked to me like that in person I'd walk away. When I was younger I'd have hit 
you but I'm a bigger person than that now.

Yes I've seen cables melt. My great uncle Reg (who had plenty of money) grew up 
during the depression and was a great one for buying the cheapest anything that 
would do the job. He carried the absolute worst jumper cables I've ever seen 
and patched them together with as little tape as he could get away with. 
Finally went to jump a car for a lady in a parking lot, I made the connections 
(of course he made me do it) and when she hit the key both wires at the truck 
end burnt right off. He was very upset when I wouldn't try to fix the cables.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2013 10:54:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
Message-ID:
    1378317251.51648.yahoomail...@web161003.mail.bf1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Has anyone ever seen a fire from jumper cables in anything other than a dream?

Sure, we've all gotten them warm enough to make the insulation tacky, but I am 
under the assumption that if someone is capable of making an alternator test 
station from a drill press he is also capable of looking after his well-being 
when he's using jumper cables.

Lets give Gerry a bit of credit here.? I bet he can spot hot jumper cables.? 
All I wanted to do was make a suggestion that he could save the ass busting 
clothes staining work of moving a big ole diesel battery from one car to 
another by using jumper cables in a charging test.? He apparently had no 
problem starting the car.


First thing I know, someone comes screaming into the room that there's gonna be 
a fire.? Now *really*??? If the long term mechanics on the list have actually 
caught jumper cables on fire then they really ought to consider a new line of 
work.? Thus my comment.? 

If I hurt someone's feelings, I apologize.? That is not my intention.? I will 
respond to an exaggerated response.? The claim of a fire is an exaggerated 
response.

My time on this thread is done.? Hope Gerry gets his alternator issue solved.
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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-04 Thread Gary Hurst
sort of like talk of wheels flying off.

you like old movies?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2e39UYWnCj4


On Wed, Sep 4, 2013 at 1:54 PM, Richard Hattaway
rhatta...@rocketmail.comwrote:

 Has anyone ever seen a fire from jumper cables in anything other than a
 dream?

 Sure, we've all gotten them warm enough to make the insulation tacky, but
 I am under the assumption that if someone is capable of making an
 alternator test station from a drill press he is also capable of looking
 after his well-being when he's using jumper cables.

 Lets give Gerry a bit of credit here.  I bet he can spot hot jumper
 cables.  All I wanted to do was make a suggestion that he could save the
 ass busting clothes staining work of moving a big ole diesel battery from
 one car to another by using jumper cables in a charging test.  He
 apparently had no problem starting the car.


 First thing I know, someone comes screaming into the room that there's
 gonna be a fire.  Now *really*??  If the long term mechanics on the list
 have actually caught jumper cables on fire then they really ought to
 consider a new line of work.  Thus my comment.

 If I hurt someone's feelings, I apologize.  That is not my intention.  I
 will respond to an exaggerated response.  The claim of a fire is an
 exaggerated response.

 My time on this thread is done.  Hope Gerry gets his alternator issue
 solved.




 
  From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2013 1:22 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D


 That is exactly it.

 Mike
 On Sep 4, 2013 1:08 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

  I think it was Please be accurate and thoughtful with your posts before
  making some wild comment about burning up cables, etc. Someone here might
  think you know what you're talking about.
 
  In which you say You don't know what you're talking about which is
  pretty harsh since I
  agree that trying to start the car with normal
  lightweight jumper cables at best probably isn't going to work and at
 worst
  is going to burn through the cables and possibly start a fire...
 
  -Curt
 
  Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2013 09:12:08 -0700 (PDT)
  From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
  Message-ID:
  1378311128.87060.yahoomail...@web161005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com
  Content-Type: text/plain;
  charset=iso-8859-1
 
  Mike,
 
  I don't assume someone is stupid.? If you re-read your comment, the one I
  reacted to, you will find you offer nothing positive, and that the post
  itself only inserts a modicum of fear about the test.? In essence, you
  attack the concept offered by someone as being asinine.?
 
  If you want to offer some constructive suggestions, fine.? If you want to
  run around screaming the sky is falling, it does no one any good.? Plain
  and simple.
 
  Richard
  ___
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  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-03 Thread Gerry Archer

Thanks to Rick, Richard, and Loren for your advice; and to Fred for the
connector which arrived in good order.  Going to wire it up and try it
again.  If the connector wasn't the problem, will put a good regulator in
and try it.  If that doesn't work, will chuck the 3 used alternators in the
drill press one at a time and try the half dozen regulators (hooked to the
12 volt shop battery) until I find a good combination.  If that doesn't
work, I'll assume that the battery, (which had boiled out most of its water
in one cell), is at fault and get FLAPS to put in a new battery which they
agree to do at my option.

Gerrymostly talking to myself

From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com



Sorry to interrupt this ongoing discussion about Rusty and Trent and Gary,
but I have a question about the alternator on my '83 300D.

There are three wires coming out of the alternator.  Service Manual
SM-1243 shows that the two heavy wires, same color, are common inside the
alternator.  It also shows that these two wires terminate at a buss bar on
the right rear inside front fender.  This seems unusual having two common
wires originating and terminating between the alternator and buss.  The
only explanation I can think of is that MB is dividing up the 60 amp load
between two wires instead of having one larger wire.

The manual also shows the battery connected to this buss but doesn't show
where.

Can someone tell me where the wire from the buss to the battery connects
to the positive battery cable so I can check it's continuity and clean the
connection?

With the key on run there is 12v on all three wires to the alternator.
With the key off, there is no voltage on the small green wire and still
12v to the other two heavy wires.  It is a new alternator, but it still
doesn't show 13.7v when engine is running 600 to 1200 rpm.

Also, where is the ground strap from the frame to the engine/transmission?

Thanks,
Gerry


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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3222/6132 - Release Date: 09/02/13




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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-03 Thread Frederick Moir
What Mike said.
If one cell boils, the battery (of cells) is dead.
 
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.




 From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
 

I would be on top of getting that battery exchanged first.  If only one
cell boiled dry it may be defective and damaging regulators somehow

Mike


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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-03 Thread Michael Canfield
I would be on top of getting that battery exchanged first.  If only one
cell boiled dry it may be defective and damaging regulators somehow

Mike
On Sep 3, 2013 10:29 AM, Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Thanks to Rick, Richard, and Loren for your advice; and to Fred for the
 connector which arrived in good order.  Going to wire it up and try it
 again.  If the connector wasn't the problem, will put a good regulator in
 and try it.  If that doesn't work, will chuck the 3 used alternators in the
 drill press one at a time and try the half dozen regulators (hooked to the
 12 volt shop battery) until I find a good combination.  If that doesn't
 work, I'll assume that the battery, (which had boiled out most of its water
 in one cell), is at fault and get FLAPS to put in a new battery which they
 agree to do at my option.

 Gerrymostly talking to myself

 From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com


  Sorry to interrupt this ongoing discussion about Rusty and Trent and Gary,
 but I have a question about the alternator on my '83 300D.

 There are three wires coming out of the alternator.  Service Manual
 SM-1243 shows that the two heavy wires, same color, are common inside the
 alternator.  It also shows that these two wires terminate at a buss bar on
 the right rear inside front fender.  This seems unusual having two common
 wires originating and terminating between the alternator and buss.  The
 only explanation I can think of is that MB is dividing up the 60 amp load
 between two wires instead of having one larger wire.

 The manual also shows the battery connected to this buss but doesn't show
 where.

 Can someone tell me where the wire from the buss to the battery connects
 to the positive battery cable so I can check it's continuity and clean the
 connection?

 With the key on run there is 12v on all three wires to the alternator.
 With the key off, there is no voltage on the small green wire and still
 12v to the other two heavy wires.  It is a new alternator, but it still
 doesn't show 13.7v when engine is running 600 to 1200 rpm.

 Also, where is the ground strap from the frame to the engine/transmission?

 Thanks,
 Gerry


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 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3222/6132 - Release Date: 09/02/13



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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-03 Thread Richard Hattaway
What kind of claim is this???

Jumper cables are like welding cable.  At least good ones are.  The two 
batteries are running 12 volts float.  There is little likelihood of anything 
other than minor charging going on between the two batteries, since he said 
he's disconnecting the 'good' vehicles cabling.

This is nothing more than jump starting the car as far as the cables are 
concerned.  Nothing is going to burn up here.

In fact, what will probably happen is the alternator will begin charging the 
newly introduced battery since the questionable one was run dry, thus has a 
high resistance cell eliminating the ability for the battery to be charged by 
the alternator.  He's looking for 13.7 out of the alternator which is correct, 
and should be achieved if A) the alternator is capable of charging, and B) the 
battery is able to be charged.  

It's a simple test, takes seconds, and is accurate.  It can be done in business 
clothes.  It eliminates or proves half of the A) and B) above. There is no 
chance of meltdown or fire any more than there is during any jump start 
situation.

Please be accurate and thoughtful with your posts before making some wild 
comment about burning up cables, etc.  Someone here might think you know what 
you're talking about.






 From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 3:48 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
 

If you are saying you are going to use your jumper cables in between the
240 battery and the 300 cables and starter yhen you better have a big set
of cables.  Like welding cable.  Otherwise you will burn them up and not
answer your question.  Better to just swap out the batteries and see if the
issue follows the battery from the 300.

Mike
On Sep 3, 2013 2:21 PM, Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 That's a good idea, Richard.  I'll put the 240D and the 300D side by side
 and jumper with all the cables off.  I know the 240D battery is good.
 Batteries are both group 49.
 Thanks,
 Gerry

 From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
 Like everybody else has said, please change the battery before you go to
 all that trouble. You could even just use some jumper cables and clamp
 another one in parallel to the toasted one to prove your point. Much easier
 than messing with regulators and drill presses (c:

 Thanks to Rick, Richard, and Loren for your advice; and to Fred for the
 connector which arrived in good order. Going to wire it up and try it
 again. If the connector wasn't the problem, will put a good regulator in
 and try it. If that doesn't work, will chuck the 3 used alternators in the
 drill press one at a time and try the half dozen regulators (hooked to the
 12 volt shop battery) until I find a good combination. If that doesn't
 work, I'll assume that the battery, (which had boiled out most of its water
 in one cell), is at fault and get FLAPS to put in a new battery which they
 agree to do at my option.

 Gerrymostly talking to myself



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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-03 Thread Richard Hattaway
Like everybody else has said, please change the battery before you go to all 
that trouble.  You could even just use some jumper cables and clamp another one 
in parallel to the toasted one to prove your point.  Much easier than messing 
with regulators and drill presses (c:





 From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
 

Thanks to Rick, Richard, and Loren for your advice; and to Fred for the
connector which arrived in good order.  Going to wire it up and try it
again.  If the connector wasn't the problem, will put a good regulator in
and try it.  If that doesn't work, will chuck the 3 used alternators in the
drill press one at a time and try the half dozen regulators (hooked to the
12 volt shop battery) until I find a good combination.  If that doesn't
work, I'll assume that the battery, (which had boiled out most of its water
in one cell), is at fault and get FLAPS to put in a new battery which they
agree to do at my option.

Gerrymostly talking to myself

From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com


 Sorry to interrupt this ongoing discussion about Rusty and Trent and Gary,
 but I have a question about the alternator on my '83 300D.

 There are three wires coming out of the alternator.  Service Manual
 SM-1243 shows that the two heavy wires, same color, are common inside the
 alternator.  It also shows that these two wires terminate at a buss bar on
 the right rear inside front fender.  This seems unusual having two common
 wires originating and terminating between the alternator and buss.  The
 only explanation I can think of is that MB is dividing up the 60 amp load
 between two wires instead of having one larger wire.

 The manual also shows the battery connected to this buss but doesn't show
 where.

 Can someone tell me where the wire from the buss to the battery connects
 to the positive battery cable so I can check it's continuity and clean the
 connection?

 With the key on run there is 12v on all three wires to the alternator.
 With the key off, there is no voltage on the small green wire and still
 12v to the other two heavy wires.  It is a new alternator, but it still
 doesn't show 13.7v when engine is running 600 to 1200 rpm.

 Also, where is the ground strap from the frame to the engine/transmission?

 Thanks,
 Gerry


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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-03 Thread Curt Raymond
Ever try to start a car where the battery in the car is dead? It takes a 
helluva lot of current to get a car started. Normal battery cables are so short 
they don't have to be all that thick. Now you want to run from one car to 
another your cables have to be thick to make up for the distance. I'm sure 
theres a rule that explains how thick for the distance.

Mercedes diesels in particular take a ton of power to get started, theres a 
reason the battery is a grp 49.

Most jumper cables are garbage, like 4ga. I've got a set of good ones that are 
0ga that were like $90 and are heavy. People joke when they see them but 
they'll haul a lot of power.

One time jumping a co-worker's car I didn't have my cables so we put my 240D 
with some wimpy cables somebody had and nothing happened. We waited and waited 
and got nowhere other than the cables got warm. Got another set of wimpy cables 
from somebody else and waited around when the second set was warm too the car 
started...

-Curt


Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 14:04:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
Message-ID:
    1378242281.77663.yahoomail...@web161003.mail.bf1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

What kind of claim is this???

Jumper
 cables are like welding cable.? At least good ones are.? The two 
batteries are running 12 volts float.? There is little likelihood of 
anything other than minor charging going on between the two batteries, 
since he said he's disconnecting the 'good' vehicles cabling.

This is nothing more than jump starting the car as far as the cables are 
concerned.? Nothing is going to burn up here.

In
 fact, what will probably happen is the alternator will begin charging 
the newly introduced battery since the questionable one was run dry, 
thus has a high resistance cell eliminating the ability for the battery 
to be charged by the alternator.? He's looking for 13.7 out of the 
alternator which is correct, and should be achieved if A) the alternator
 is capable of charging, and B) the battery is able to be charged.? 

It's
 a simple test, takes seconds, and is accurate.? It can be done in 
business clothes.? It eliminates or proves half of the A) and B) above. 
There is no chance of meltdown or fire any more than there is during any
 jump start situation.

Please be accurate and thoughtful with 
your posts before making some wild comment about burning up cables, 
etc.? Someone here might think you know what you're talking about.
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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-03 Thread Gerry Archer
That's a good idea, Richard.  I'll put the 240D and the 300D side by side 
and jumper with all the cables off.  I know the 240D battery is good. 
Batteries are both group 49.

Thanks,
Gerry

From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
Like everybody else has said, please change the battery before you go to all 
that trouble. You could even just use some jumper cables and clamp another 
one in parallel to the toasted one to prove your point. Much easier than 
messing with regulators and drill presses (c:


Thanks to Rick, Richard, and Loren for your advice; and to Fred for the
connector which arrived in good order. Going to wire it up and try it
again. If the connector wasn't the problem, will put a good regulator in
and try it. If that doesn't work, will chuck the 3 used alternators in the
drill press one at a time and try the half dozen regulators (hooked to the
12 volt shop battery) until I find a good combination. If that doesn't
work, I'll assume that the battery, (which had boiled out most of its water
in one cell), is at fault and get FLAPS to put in a new battery which they
agree to do at my option.

Gerrymostly talking to myself



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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-03 Thread Michael Canfield
If you are saying you are going to use your jumper cables in between the
240 battery and the 300 cables and starter yhen you better have a big set
of cables.  Like welding cable.  Otherwise you will burn them up and not
answer your question.  Better to just swap out the batteries and see if the
issue follows the battery from the 300.

Mike
On Sep 3, 2013 2:21 PM, Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 That's a good idea, Richard.  I'll put the 240D and the 300D side by side
 and jumper with all the cables off.  I know the 240D battery is good.
 Batteries are both group 49.
 Thanks,
 Gerry

 From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
 Like everybody else has said, please change the battery before you go to
 all that trouble. You could even just use some jumper cables and clamp
 another one in parallel to the toasted one to prove your point. Much easier
 than messing with regulators and drill presses (c:

 Thanks to Rick, Richard, and Loren for your advice; and to Fred for the
 connector which arrived in good order. Going to wire it up and try it
 again. If the connector wasn't the problem, will put a good regulator in
 and try it. If that doesn't work, will chuck the 3 used alternators in the
 drill press one at a time and try the half dozen regulators (hooked to the
 12 volt shop battery) until I find a good combination. If that doesn't
 work, I'll assume that the battery, (which had boiled out most of its water
 in one cell), is at fault and get FLAPS to put in a new battery which they
 agree to do at my option.

 Gerrymostly talking to myself



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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-03 Thread Richard Hattaway
He never said his car wouldn't start.  He said the alternator won't charge.  
And there is an opinion that the battery is the culprit.  

If the car is hard starting too, then he has to use real jumper cables.   
Nothing else changes.  

Geeze, you guys are a bunch of alarmists.  Well, one or two of you anyway... 

Sure, he can swap the batteries if he wants to.  Fine.  My point is that it's 
an easy check to see if the battery is the issue, and to not wait until after 
he's tried three regulators and set up an alternator test bench with a drill 
press to sort out the culprit.  

And if he does it as I described, he'll already have it done while you guys are 
all standing around kibitzing about how it wont work for this or that reason.  







 From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 5:21 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
 

Ever try to start a car where the battery in the car is dead? It takes a 
helluva lot of current to get a car started. Normal battery cables are so short 
they don't have to be all that thick. Now you want to run from one car to 
another your cables have to be thick to make up for the distance. I'm sure 
theres a rule that explains how thick for the distance.

Mercedes diesels in particular take a ton of power to get started, theres a 
reason the battery is a grp 49.

Most jumper cables are garbage, like 4ga. I've got a set of good ones that are 
0ga that were like $90 and are heavy. People joke when they see them but 
they'll haul a lot of power.

One time jumping a co-worker's car I didn't have my cables so we put my 240D 
with some wimpy cables somebody had and nothing happened. We waited and waited 
and got nowhere other than the cables got warm. Got another set of wimpy cables 
from somebody else and waited around when the second set was warm too the car 
started...

-Curt


Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 14:04:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
Message-ID:
    1378242281.77663.yahoomail...@web161003.mail.bf1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

What kind of claim is this???

Jumper
cables are like welding cable.? At least good ones are.? The two 
batteries are running 12 volts float.? There is little likelihood of 
anything other than minor charging going on between the two batteries, 
since he said he's disconnecting the 'good' vehicles cabling.

This is nothing more than jump starting the car as far as the cables are 
concerned.? Nothing is going to burn up here.

In
fact, what will probably happen is the alternator will begin charging 
the newly introduced battery since the questionable one was run dry, 
thus has a high resistance cell eliminating the ability for the battery 
to be charged by the alternator.? He's looking for 13.7 out of the 
alternator which is correct, and should be achieved if A) the alternator
is capable of charging, and B) the battery is able to be charged.? 

It's
a simple test, takes seconds, and is accurate.? It can be done in 
business clothes.? It eliminates or proves half of the A) and B) above. 
There is no chance of meltdown or fire any more than there is during any
jump start situation.

Please be accurate and thoughtful with 
your posts before making some wild comment about burning up cables, 
etc.? Someone here might think you know what you're talking about.
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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-03 Thread Fmiser
 Richard wrote:
 
 In fact, what will probably happen is the alternator will begin
 charging the newly introduced battery since the questionable one
 was run dry, thus has a high resistance cell eliminating the
 ability for the battery to be charged by the alternator. 

If the battery has high resistance, then it will be even easier for
the alternator to achieve 13.6 V.  If the resistance is _low_, then
it could have trouble supplying the necessary current.  Ohms law
and all that. *smiles*

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-03 Thread Fmiser
 Gerry wrote:
 
 Can someone tell me where the wire from the buss to the battery
 connects to the positive battery cable so I can check it's
 continuity and clean the connection?

Better - or more accurate - than measuring continuity is to measure
voltage drop.  After starting the engine (so the battery needs a
bit of charging) measure the voltage with one lead on the battery
+ terminal and the other on the big wire at the alternator.  If
there is more than 0.25 V drop, it's worth a closer look.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-03 Thread Gerry Archer
I do have heavy cables but won't be using them to start the 300D.  I'll 
start the 300D with its battery and then disconnect it and hook the 300D 
cables to the jumpers and the other end of the jumpers to the disconnected 
240D battery.  There will probably be a voltage drop but I should be able to 
see if the alternator is charging.  Does that make sense?

Gerry

From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com

If you are saying you are going to use your jumper cables in between the
240 battery and the 300 cables and starter yhen you better have a big set
of cables.  Like welding cable.  Otherwise you will burn them up and not
answer your question.  Better to just swap out the batteries and see if 
the

issue follows the battery from the 300.

Mike
On Sep 3, 2013 2:21 PM, Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:


That's a good idea, Richard.  I'll put the 240D and the 300D side by side
and jumper with all the cables off.  I know the 240D battery is good.
Batteries are both group 49.
Thanks,
Gerry

From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
Like everybody else has said, please change the battery before you go to
all that trouble. You could even just use some jumper cables and clamp
another one in parallel to the toasted one to prove your point. Much 
easier

than messing with regulators and drill presses (c:

Thanks to Rick, Richard, and Loren for your advice; and to Fred for the
connector which arrived in good order. Going to wire it up and try it
again. If the connector wasn't the problem, will put a good regulator in
and try it. If that doesn't work, will chuck the 3 used alternators in 
the
drill press one at a time and try the half dozen regulators (hooked to 
the

12 volt shop battery) until I find a good combination. If that doesn't
work, I'll assume that the battery, (which had boiled out most of its 
water
in one cell), is at fault and get FLAPS to put in a new battery which 
they

agree to do at my option.

Gerrymostly talking to myself



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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-03 Thread Peter Frederick
Don't do this, you are likely to blow the diodes in the alternator by  
running it without the battery connected!


If you want to see if it charges the other battery, install the  
battery in the car.


If the battery boiled out, even one cell, either it was charging at  
far too high a voltage, which you can easily check, or the battery was  
defective.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-03 Thread Craig
On Tue, 3 Sep 2013 21:23:28 -0500 Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
wrote:

 Don't do this, you are likely to blow the diodes in the alternator by  
 running it without the battery connected!

What he said.

If you run the car with the battery disconnected, you are likely to
damage your alternator.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-03 Thread Gerry Archer


From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
Don't do this, you are likely to blow the diodes in the alternator by 
running it without the battery connected!


If you want to see if it charges the other battery, install the  battery 
in the car.


If the battery boiled out, even one cell, either it was charging at  far 
too high a voltage, which you can easily check, or the battery was 
defective.



Peter

..
What I thought about doing was putting the jumpers between the batteries 
just like I was jumpstarting the car.  Then I start the car with the 
questionable battery/alternator.  Leaving the negative jumper attached to 
the negative cable on the questionable battery, I remove the negative cable 
from that battery and wrap plastic around it to insulate it.
That way the alternator is attached only to the good battery in the other 
car.  If the meter sees 13.7v, the alternator should be good and the 
questionable battery identified as being the problem.  I have negative to 
negative and positive to positive with the questionable battery out of the 
picture.  Wouldn't that work?

Gerry



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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-03 Thread Richard Hattaway
OK, it's not a good idea to remove a battery from a turning alternator.  So 
this  is not a good plan.

I was thinking more along the idea of disconnecting the 240 battery from it's 
car ( pull the cables off ) then jumping the 240 battery over to the 300.  The 
240 battery is still in the car but not connected to the car.

If you have no issue starting the 300, it starts easlily with the questionable 
battery, then I'm thinking it's not the battery that's at the root of your 
charging issue.



 From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
 

I do have heavy cables but won't be using them to start the 300D.  I'll 
start the 300D with its battery and then disconnect it and hook the 300D 
cables to the jumpers and the other end of the jumpers to the disconnected 
240D battery.  There will probably be a voltage drop but I should be able to 
see if the alternator is charging.  Does that make sense?
Gerry

From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
 If you are saying you are going to use your jumper cables in between the
 240 battery and the 300 cables and starter yhen you better have a big set
 of cables.  Like welding cable.  Otherwise you will burn them up and not
 answer your question.  Better to just swap out the batteries and see if 
 the
 issue follows the battery from the 300.

 Mike
 On Sep 3, 2013 2:21 PM, Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 That's a good idea, Richard.  I'll put the 240D and the 300D side by side
 and jumper with all the cables off.  I know the 240D battery is good.
 Batteries are both group 49.
 Thanks,
 Gerry

 From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
 Like everybody else has said, please change the battery before you go to
 all that trouble. You could even just use some jumper cables and clamp
 another one in parallel to the toasted one to prove your point. Much 
 easier
 than messing with regulators and drill presses (c:

 Thanks to Rick, Richard, and Loren for your advice; and to Fred for the
 connector which arrived in good order. Going to wire it up and try it
 again. If the connector wasn't the problem, will put a good regulator in
 and try it. If that doesn't work, will chuck the 3 used alternators in 
 the
 drill press one at a time and try the half dozen regulators (hooked to 
 the
 12 volt shop battery) until I find a good combination. If that doesn't
 work, I'll assume that the battery, (which had boiled out most of its 
 water
 in one cell), is at fault and get FLAPS to put in a new battery which 
 they
 agree to do at my option.

 Gerrymostly talking to myself



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 Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3222/6136 - Release Date: 09/03/13
 


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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-03 Thread Craig
On Tue, 3 Sep 2013 23:37:46 -0400 Gerry Archer
arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 ..
 What I thought about doing was putting the jumpers between the
 batteries just like I was jumpstarting the car.  Then I start the car
 with the questionable battery/alternator.  Leaving the negative jumper
 attached to the negative cable on the questionable battery, I remove
 the negative cable from that battery and wrap plastic around it to
 insulate it. That way the alternator is attached only to the good
 battery in the other car.  If the meter sees 13.7v, the alternator
 should be good and the questionable battery identified as being the
 problem.  I have negative to negative and positive to positive with the
 questionable battery out of the picture.  Wouldn't that work?

Yes, that would work.


But what if you slip?




Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-03 Thread Richard Hattaway
If an alternator acted as a simple supply of E in said equation, then yes, this 
is true.  One could also insert an R with a value of 0 and have the alternator 
provide infinite charge.

However, an alternator actually depends on the battery for excitation of its 
field windings, and a battery with a high resistance cell will normally cause 
the alternator to not charge.



 From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 7:20 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
 

 Richard wrote:
 
 In fact, what will probably happen is the alternator will begin
 charging the newly introduced battery since the questionable one
 was run dry, thus has a high resistance cell eliminating the
 ability for the battery to be charged by the alternator. 

If the battery has high resistance, then it will be even easier for
the alternator to achieve 13.6 V.  If the resistance is _low_, then
it could have trouble supplying the necessary current.  Ohms law
and all that. *smiles*

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-03 Thread Richard Hattaway
Yep, slipsies might introduce more questions than answers.  Just make the 240D 
bare posts, and set up the jumpers.  If you get 13.7 when the 300 D is running, 
then look at the battery in the 300D closer. 

You really don't have to disconnect the 300D battery to make the test.  

I think you are going to see 12.7 with both batteries.  But then you've 
scratched off one of the tests you wanted to run pretty early in the game.

Did the new connector help any?? I've never changed one.  I was thinking it was 
a molded plug on the end of some wires, but it's been 8 years since I've looked 
at one.





 From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 11:46 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
 

On Tue, 3 Sep 2013 23:37:46 -0400 Gerry Archer
arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 ..
 What I thought about doing was putting the jumpers between the
 batteries just like I was jumpstarting the car.  Then I start the car
 with the questionable battery/alternator.  Leaving the negative jumper
 attached to the negative cable on the questionable battery, I remove
 the negative cable from that battery and wrap plastic around it to
 insulate it. That way the alternator is attached only to the good
 battery in the other car.  If the meter sees 13.7v, the alternator
 should be good and the questionable battery identified as being the
 problem.  I have negative to negative and positive to positive with the
 questionable battery out of the picture.  Wouldn't that work?

Yes, that would work.


But what if you slip?




Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-02 Thread rickknoble
Gerry wrote:
Also, where is the ground strap from the frame to the engine/transmission?

Under the drivers side.
Here is a picture.

http://db.tt/6tliKmON

Rick Knoble

Sent from My Samsung tablet
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Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D

2013-09-02 Thread Richard Hattaway
Answers among the questions



 From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Monday, September 2, 2013 9:00 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
 

Sorry to interrupt this ongoing discussion about Rusty and Trent and Gary, 
but I have a question about the alternator on my '83 300D.

There are three wires coming out of the alternator.  Service Manual SM-1243 
shows that the two heavy wires, same color, are common inside the 
alternator.  It also shows that these two wires terminate at a buss bar on 
the right rear inside front fender.  This seems unusual having two common 
wires originating and terminating between the alternator and buss.  The only 
explanation I can think of is that MB is dividing up the 60 amp load between 
two wires instead of having one larger wire.

This is the reason

The manual also shows the battery connected to this buss but doesn't show 
where.

Go to the fender ( passenger ) and look under the air cleaner/turbo stuff.  
There is a block there as you describe.  Has a few wires on it. Includes the 
alternator and the feed to the soleniod coil on the starter if I am not 
mistaken... Seems like I could always find a way to crank the engine for valve 
sets there.  Now there will be another lead that goes to the battery, probably 
hooking to the starter battery post but not sure.  You have to trace it, 
physically.

Can someone tell me where the wire from the buss to the battery connects to 
the positive battery cable so I can check it's continuity and clean the 
connection?

Sorry, see above, I got carried away..

With the key on run there is 12v on all three wires to the alternator. 
With the key off, there is no voltage on the small green wire and still 12v 
to the other two heavy wires.  It is a new alternator, but it still doesn't 
show 13.7v when engine is running 600 to 1200 rpm.

The smaller wire is what feeds the light on the dash IIRC.  So no ignition, no 
circuit.  The alternator sounds a bit bad.  It has a built in regulator, and 
should pop right up to 13.7 when you spin it up.  What does it show??  Does it 
move up at all?  

Also, where is the ground strap from the frame to the engine/transmission?]]

Again, IIRC, it's under the driver's right foot, so to speak.  Braid/strap 
arrangement.  Pretty obvious when you climb under there for a look.  If the car 
is cranking OK, then it's probably OK too, since that's the return for the 
starter current.

Be sure to check/replace all the fuses .. ( bless you Marshall, we miss you (c: 
 )

Thanks,
Gerry


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