Re: [MBZ] Howto on resoldering ACC?

[Craig McCluskey]

On Thu, 8 Oct 2009 17:41:54 -0500 OK Don  wrote:

> I've been sucking the old solder out, and replacing with new. Not that
> much of an issue, since you're already there ---
> 
> On Thu, Oct 8, 2009 at 1:23 PM, Craig McCluskey
> wrote:
> >
> > Always add flux when remelting solder.


Sounds like you are on the right track.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Howto on resoldering ACC?

[OK Don]

I've been sucking the old solder out, and replacing with new. Not that much
of an issue, since you're already there ---

On Thu, Oct 8, 2009 at 1:23 PM, Craig McCluskey wrote:

> On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 00:55:55 -0400 Allan Streib 
> wrote:
>
> > LWB250  writes:
> >
> > > The big issue is the large solder joints between the bottom board and
> > > the side boards.  Reflow these joints with a decently sized soldering
> > > iron, as they will have microscopic cracks in them that are nearly
> > > impossible to see.  These are the cause of the majority of the grief
> > > you have with this setup, at least in my experience.
> >
> > Do I need to add any fresh solder, or just melt the existing solder
> > joints?  I have one of those "desoldering" irons, with a suction bulb,
> > if I need to remove the old solder and resolder with fresh (hoping not).
>
> Always add flux when remelting solder.
>
>
> Craig
>
>
> --
> OK Don
> CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
> distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
> others.
> The Devil's Dictionary
> Ambrose Bierce
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Howto on resoldering ACC?

[Craig McCluskey]

On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 00:55:55 -0400 Allan Streib 
wrote:

> LWB250  writes:
> 
> > The big issue is the large solder joints between the bottom board and
> > the side boards.  Reflow these joints with a decently sized soldering
> > iron, as they will have microscopic cracks in them that are nearly
> > impossible to see.  These are the cause of the majority of the grief
> > you have with this setup, at least in my experience.
> 
> Do I need to add any fresh solder, or just melt the existing solder
> joints?  I have one of those "desoldering" irons, with a suction bulb,
> if I need to remove the old solder and resolder with fresh (hoping not).

Always add flux when remelting solder.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Howto on resoldering ACC?

[Jim Cathey]

Do I need to add any fresh solder, or just melt the existing solder


Adding a touch of new (with its new flux) is crucial.
You shouldn't need to remove any that's already there,
unless this job has already been done once!

I sometimes wire-brush the board, using a Dremel, to
remove oxidation.  Depends on how bad it is.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Howto on resoldering ACC?

[archer]

I guess it could also be the blower itself, but it seems to run fine 
once it comes on, and the problem seems more responsive to fiddling 
with the controls than anything else.


It's the PB array.  Remove it from car, open it up, resolder
everything---especially the connections to the side boards.
A relatively hot iron helps, since many of these contacts
are on the larger side.



-- Jim

.
Should you use cleaner on the PC boards?
Gerry

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Re: [MBZ] Howto on resoldering ACC?

[Allan Streib]

LWB250  writes:

> The big issue is the large solder joints between the bottom board and
> the side boards.  Reflow these joints with a decently sized soldering
> iron, as they will have microscopic cracks in them that are nearly
> impossible to see.  These are the cause of the majority of the grief
> you have with this setup, at least in my experience.

Do I need to add any fresh solder, or just melt the existing solder
joints?  I have one of those "desoldering" irons, with a suction bulb,
if I need to remove the old solder and resolder with fresh (hoping not).

Allan

-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Howto on resoldering ACC?

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 6:15 AM, Allan Streib  wrote:
> I think I need to resolder the ACC in my W123.

Jim C. did mine for a bargain price.  Perhaps we can circulate a
petition for him to hang out his shingle again.  ;)

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Howto on resoldering ACC?

[LWB250]

The big issue is the large solder joints between the bottom board and the side 
boards.  Reflow these joints with a decently sized soldering iron, as they will 
have microscopic cracks in them that are nearly impossible to see.  These are 
the cause of the majority of the grief you have with this setup, at least in my 
experience.
Dan

--- On Wed, 10/7/09, Rich Thomas  wrote:

From: Rich Thomas 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Howto on resoldering ACC?
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Date: Wednesday, October 7, 2009, 10:56 PM

Very nice, a narrative would be useful but not absolutely necessary.

--R

LWB250 wrote:
> I'm uploading the pictures I did of an ACC R&R on a 123 to my dot Mac 
> gallery.  Here's the URL:
> http://gallery.me.com/dpenoff#100140
> Got questions?  Ask.  I've never gotten around to writing the narrative for 
> this, but I think the pictures will help a lot.
> Dan
>
> --- On Wed, 10/7/09, andrew strasfogel  wrote:
>
> From: andrew strasfogel 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Howto on resoldering ACC?
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Date: Wednesday, October 7, 2009, 5:28 PM
>
> Yes - it's the ACC module.  I had the same problem that was solved by
> replacing the ACC.  The soldering cracks are easy to spot and correct if you
> pop off the rear panel, or so I've been told...
>
> On Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 9:15 AM, Allan Streib  wrote:
>
>   
>> I think I need to resolder the ACC in my W123.  Does anyone know of a
>> writeup on doing this?
>>
>> The symptoms are, that pushing the buttons seems to activate the flaps
>> properly (I can hear them moving -- assuming this is vacuum/mechanical, not
>> electrical) but often the blower does not come on.  I can usually get it to
>> come on by cycling the buttons several times or thumping the side of the
>> console next to the pushbutton unit.
>>
>> I guess it could also be the blower itself, but it seems to run fine once
>> it comes on, and the problem seems more responsive to fiddling with the
>> controls than anything else.
>>
>> Allan
>> --
>> 1983 300D
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
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>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>     
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Re: [MBZ] Howto on resoldering ACC?

[Rich Thomas]

Very nice, a narrative would be useful but not absolutely necessary.

--R

LWB250 wrote:

I'm uploading the pictures I did of an ACC R&R on a 123 to my dot Mac gallery.  
Here's the URL:
http://gallery.me.com/dpenoff#100140
Got questions?  Ask.  I've never gotten around to writing the narrative for 
this, but I think the pictures will help a lot.
Dan

--- On Wed, 10/7/09, andrew strasfogel  wrote:

From: andrew strasfogel 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Howto on resoldering ACC?
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Date: Wednesday, October 7, 2009, 5:28 PM

Yes - it's the ACC module.  I had the same problem that was solved by
replacing the ACC.  The soldering cracks are easy to spot and correct if you
pop off the rear panel, or so I've been told...

On Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 9:15 AM, Allan Streib  wrote:

  

I think I need to resolder the ACC in my W123.  Does anyone know of a
writeup on doing this?

The symptoms are, that pushing the buttons seems to activate the flaps
properly (I can hear them moving -- assuming this is vacuum/mechanical, not
electrical) but often the blower does not come on.  I can usually get it to
come on by cycling the buttons several times or thumping the side of the
console next to the pushbutton unit.

I guess it could also be the blower itself, but it seems to run fine once
it comes on, and the problem seems more responsive to fiddling with the
controls than anything else.

Allan
--
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Howto on resoldering ACC?

[Jim Cathey]

I guess it could also be the blower itself, but it seems to run fine 
once it comes on, and the problem seems more responsive to fiddling 
with the controls than anything else.


It's the PB array.  Remove it from car, open it up, resolder
everything---especially the connections to the side boards.
A relatively hot iron helps, since many of these contacts
are on the larger side.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Howto on resoldering ACC?

[LWB250]

I'm uploading the pictures I did of an ACC R&R on a 123 to my dot Mac gallery.  
Here's the URL:
http://gallery.me.com/dpenoff#100140
Got questions?  Ask.  I've never gotten around to writing the narrative for 
this, but I think the pictures will help a lot.
Dan

--- On Wed, 10/7/09, andrew strasfogel  wrote:

From: andrew strasfogel 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Howto on resoldering ACC?
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Date: Wednesday, October 7, 2009, 5:28 PM

Yes - it's the ACC module.  I had the same problem that was solved by
replacing the ACC.  The soldering cracks are easy to spot and correct if you
pop off the rear panel, or so I've been told...

On Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 9:15 AM, Allan Streib  wrote:

> I think I need to resolder the ACC in my W123.  Does anyone know of a
> writeup on doing this?
>
> The symptoms are, that pushing the buttons seems to activate the flaps
> properly (I can hear them moving -- assuming this is vacuum/mechanical, not
> electrical) but often the blower does not come on.  I can usually get it to
> come on by cycling the buttons several times or thumping the side of the
> console next to the pushbutton unit.
>
> I guess it could also be the blower itself, but it seems to run fine once
> it comes on, and the problem seems more responsive to fiddling with the
> controls than anything else.
>
> Allan
> --
> 1983 300D
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
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> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] Howto on resoldering ACC?

[andrew strasfogel]

Yes - it's the ACC module.  I had the same problem that was solved by
replacing the ACC.  The soldering cracks are easy to spot and correct if you
pop off the rear panel, or so I've been told...

On Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 9:15 AM, Allan Streib  wrote:

> I think I need to resolder the ACC in my W123.  Does anyone know of a
> writeup on doing this?
>
> The symptoms are, that pushing the buttons seems to activate the flaps
> properly (I can hear them moving -- assuming this is vacuum/mechanical, not
> electrical) but often the blower does not come on.  I can usually get it to
> come on by cycling the buttons several times or thumping the side of the
> console next to the pushbutton unit.
>
> I guess it could also be the blower itself, but it seems to run fine once
> it comes on, and the problem seems more responsive to fiddling with the
> controls than anything else.
>
> Allan
> --
> 1983 300D
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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