Re: [MBZ] Swapping rear springs - what 's the diff?

2014-04-13 Thread Peter Frederick

Twice the spring rate would indeed make it rather bouncy, eh?

One thing to check, which is easy -- with the car parked, engine off,  
can you bounce the suspension by applying significant weight to the  
rear bumper (or by standing on the rear with the tailgate open)?


If not, the SLS is not connected up properly, the accumulators are  
dead, or the lines are blocked.  Check for crimped metal lines, you  
never know what people are up to, and verify that the control valve is  
working.


Dead accumulators make the suspension immobile -- the only thing that  
can move is the tire sidewalls.  VERY bouncy ride, as in the tires  
leave the ground a lot.  This was the condition my TE is was in when I  
bought it, and it only took an hour or so to fix.


I assume you bought new accumulators, but if they were NOS, they could  
have been dead when you installed them.


If the rear suspension is just very stiff and not locked up, or  
doesn't have full movement, then yes, you should change the springs.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Swapping rear springs - what 's the diff?

2014-04-13 Thread Andrew Strasfogel
Thanks, Peter.  The rear is EXCESSIVELY bouncy, using my weight on the rear
bumper.  It takes quite a while to settle after I bounce it up and down.
Could incorrect springs be the cause of this abnormality?


On Sun, Apr 13, 2014 at 8:49 AM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.netwrote:

 Twice the spring rate would indeed make it rather bouncy, eh?

 One thing to check, which is easy -- with the car parked, engine off, can
 you bounce the suspension by applying significant weight to the rear bumper
 (or by standing on the rear with the tailgate open)?

 If not, the SLS is not connected up properly, the accumulators are dead,
 or the lines are blocked.  Check for crimped metal lines, you never know
 what people are up to, and verify that the control valve is working.

 Dead accumulators make the suspension immobile -- the only thing that can
 move is the tire sidewalls.  VERY bouncy ride, as in the tires leave the
 ground a lot.  This was the condition my TE is was in when I bought it, and
 it only took an hour or so to fix.

 I assume you bought new accumulators, but if they were NOS, they could
 have been dead when you installed them.

 If the rear suspension is just very stiff and not locked up, or doesn't
 have full movement, then yes, you should change the springs.

 Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Swapping rear springs - what 's the diff?

2014-04-13 Thread Peter Frederick
More likely air in the SLS -- the damping is provided by the  
restriction of fluid flow through the system.


Does it actually self level?  Load up the rear so it sags down with  
the engine off and see if it pumps up to level when you start.  A  
couple adults should be enough.


Again, kinked or blocked lines will cause this, I think.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Swapping rear springs - what 's the diff?

2014-04-13 Thread Andrew Strasfogel
They had to bleed the system when installing the struts so I doubt the line
is kinked.

What would be the effect of longer/shorter springs than spec.?


On Sun, Apr 13, 2014 at 9:12 AM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.netwrote:

 More likely air in the SLS -- the damping is provided by the restriction
 of fluid flow through the system.

 Does it actually self level?  Load up the rear so it sags down with the
 engine off and see if it pumps up to level when you start.  A couple adults
 should be enough.

 Again, kinked or blocked lines will cause this, I think.


 Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Swapping rear springs - what 's the diff?

2014-04-13 Thread Peter Frederick
The springs for the SLS are weaker than standard springs, so they will  
be too stiff if replaced with sedan springs.  I don't know how much  
difference though.


If the suspension moves properly, most likely they are too hard.

Don't forget that a small leak will result in a system full of air.

Check the fluid level.  You get a whine from the SLS pump if it's low,  
as a general rule.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Swapping rear springs - what 's the diff?

2014-04-13 Thread Max Dillon
Each spring has the part number stamped on the spring, at one end or the other. 
  The springs would need to be removed from the car to read the part number.  
You may need a wire brush to remove dirt, rust, etc to be able to read the 
number.

I like Peter's idea about air in the system.  Loosen the hydraulic connection 
at the top of each strut to purge the air.  This method is the best way to 
remove air, that connection is pretty much the high point in the system, and 
also where the valve in the strut is supposed to provide the damping action.  
If that valve is air-bound, no damping, which seems to be what you're 
describing.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC


 Original Message 
From: Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
Sent: April 13, 2014 8:37:36 AM EDT
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Swapping rear springs - what 's the diff?

My 1985 300TD may have incorrect (sedan/coupe) rear springs due to a
previous owner wanting to disconnect the SLS.  This could have been part of
the conversion to conventional suspension, using Bilstein rear shocks.
After purchasing the vehicle, I swapped out the rear shocks for rear
struts, installed new accumulators (air cells), and reconnected the SLS.

Now I am wondering why the rear is quite bouncy, so bad enough that I can't
pass MD inspection the way it is.  I have no paperwork for the original
suspension conversion.  Ideas on where to go from here?
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Re: [MBZ] Swapping rear springs - what 's the diff?

2014-04-13 Thread Andrew Strasfogel
I fixed a pinhol leak last year.  Reservoir is full.  So if the springs are
stronger than they should be, does this mean a less or more bouncy ride?
Or is this irrelevant to my problem?


On Sun, Apr 13, 2014 at 10:13 AM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.netwrote:

 The springs for the SLS are weaker than standard springs, so they will be
 too stiff if replaced with sedan springs.  I don't know how much difference
 though.

 If the suspension moves properly, most likely they are too hard.

 Don't forget that a small leak will result in a system full of air.

 Check the fluid level.  You get a whine from the SLS pump if it's low, as
 a general rule.


 Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Swapping rear springs - what 's the diff?

2014-04-13 Thread OK Don
Bouncy ride is due to a lack of damping action, not spring rate. I don't
know anything about the SLS other than what I've read here, but what you
are describing sounds like bad or missing shocks, not wrong springs.


On Sun, Apr 13, 2014 at 9:21 AM, Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.comwrote:

 I fixed a pinhol leak last year.  Reservoir is full.  So if the springs are
 stronger than they should be, does this mean a less or more bouncy ride?
 Or is this irrelevant to my problem?



 --

OK Don

NSA: The only branch of government that actually listons to US citizens!

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Re: [MBZ] Swapping rear springs - what 's the diff?

2014-04-13 Thread David Bruckmann
Bleed the system using the bleed valve on the level controller. The air won't 
easily work itself out. 

 On Apr 13, 2014, Andrew Strasfogel wrote:
 
 Thanks, Peter.  The rear is EXCESSIVELY bouncy, using my weight on the rear
 bumper.  It takes quite a while to settle after I bounce it up and down.
 Could incorrect springs be the cause of this abnormality?

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Re: [MBZ] Swapping rear springs - what 's the diff?

2014-04-13 Thread David Bruckmann
Also, when you open the bleed valve the car should drop an inch or so. If after 
a thorough bleeding that car does NOT drop upon opening the valve, then you 
have a defective base pressure valve inside the level controller. 
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Re: [MBZ] Swapping rear springs - what 's the diff?

2014-04-13 Thread Fmiser
 Andrew wrote:
 
 I fixed a pinhol leak last year.  Reservoir is full.  So if the
 springs are stronger than they should be, does this mean a less
 or more bouncy ride? Or is this irrelevant to my problem?

Probably not.

What you described in a earlier post, 
   The rear is EXCESSIVELY bouncy, using my weight on the rear
bumper.  It takes quite a while to settle after I bounce it up
and down.
is a description of an under-damped system.  The spring rate will
have little to do with it.  This is the job of the shocks - to
convert motion into heat.  If the self-leveling part of the
suspension is actually working, then there is something else
interfering with the damping.

Air in the system is pretty unusual, as it should be self bleeding.
(If I'm remembering correctly...)  I have had mine fully drained a
number of times and haven't ever had evidence of air in the system.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Swapping rear springs - what 's the diff?

2014-04-13 Thread Andrew Strasfogel
Thanks for your input.  Problems with Benzes usually have obvious
solutions, but in this case which is more obvious - bad (new) air cells
or improper levelling adjustment via the rear valve?


On Sun, Apr 13, 2014 at 3:54 PM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

  Andrew wrote:
 
  I fixed a pinhol leak last year.  Reservoir is full.  So if the
  springs are stronger than they should be, does this mean a less
  or more bouncy ride? Or is this irrelevant to my problem?

 Probably not.

 What you described in a earlier post,
The rear is EXCESSIVELY bouncy, using my weight on the rear
 bumper.  It takes quite a while to settle after I bounce it up
 and down.
 is a description of an under-damped system.  The spring rate will
 have little to do with it.  This is the job of the shocks - to
 convert motion into heat.  If the self-leveling part of the
 suspension is actually working, then there is something else
 interfering with the damping.

 Air in the system is pretty unusual, as it should be self bleeding.
 (If I'm remembering correctly...)  I have had mine fully drained a
 number of times and haven't ever had evidence of air in the system.

 --   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Swapping rear springs - what 's the diff?

2014-04-13 Thread Jim Cathey
I fixed a pinhol leak last year.  Reservoir is full.  So if the 
springs are
stronger than they should be, does this mean a less or more bouncy 
ride?


Neither.  If your springs were too strong the car would
ride too high when unloaded.  If the original springs were
left in there when vandalized, I'd think the car would ride
too low when unloaded, and lower yet when loaded.  The struts
provide some part of the spring support, and add more when
loaded.

All damping is the fluid rushing back and forth between
the spheres and the struts.  The struts have one-way valves
in the pistons to make them extend faster than they compress.
(Or is it the other way around?)

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Swapping rear springs - what 's the diff?

2014-04-13 Thread Jim Cathey

Thanks for your input.  Problems with Benzes usually have obvious
solutions, but in this case which is more obvious - bad (new) air 
cells

or improper levelling adjustment via the rear valve?


Could be anything, in the face of vandalism.  I'd start by
disconnecting the valve linkage, and seeing if the car can
be moved up and down manually with the valve.  If, for example,
your car had too-strong springs _and_ hydraulic struts, maybe
it's rammed up against the top of its travel and you're bouncing
along on tire flex?  I'd think the ass would too high then,
but perhaps there is more wrong than just one thing.

Figure out how the system works, in detail, then start looking
with a critical eye, experimenting, etc.  It's actually fairly
simple.  Dare I say, elegant.  Sucks when it's broken, though.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Swapping rear springs - what 's the diff?

2014-04-13 Thread Max Dillon
I know that the system is described as self bleeding, and the bleed valve is 
located on the control valve.  That bleed valve is only to relieve pressure in 
the system prior to work on the hydraulic circuit.

In my opinion, fluid in the strut-sphere part of the circuit does not 
circulate, it only moves back and forth between strut and sphere.  Occasionally 
additional fluid is added, when the car is loaded, and then bled off when the 
load is removed, but that fluid doesn't circulate, it pretty much just moves 
back and forth.

I'm convinced that the only way to properly bleed the air from the circuit is 
at the connection at the top of the rear struts.  When that part of the circuit 
has been opened, it should be bled.

Humour me, no cost other than time and a few drops of hydraulic fluid.  Try 
bleeding the system my way - it just may solve your problem.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC

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Re: [MBZ] Swapping rear springs - what 's the diff?

2014-04-13 Thread David Bruckmann
Disconnecting the strut tops is a bit messy but will work. 

The easiest is to use heavy weights in the car and the bleed screw (or level 
control lever disconnected from the roll bar) as a one-two punch. But with lots 
of weight in the back, opening and closing the just the bleed screw repeatedly 
will eventually cause the car to fall and rise enough that the air will be 
exhausted. Ditto for the control lever. The weight is absolutely needed in 
cases where you are just using the bleed screw vs the control lever. 

Just need to watch that the levelling valve around the bleed screw isn't so 
badly corroded that the threads strip! Ask me how I know.

D. 



 On Apr 13, 2014, Max Dillon wrote:
 
 I know that the system is described as self bleeding, and the bleed valve is 
 located on the control valve.  That bleed valve is only to relieve pressure 
 in the system prior to work on the hydraulic circuit.
 
 In my opinion, fluid in the strut-sphere part of the circuit does not 
 circulate, it only moves back and forth between strut and sphere.  
 Occasionally additional fluid is added, when the car is loaded, and then bled 
 off when the load is removed, but that fluid doesn't circulate, it pretty 
 much just moves back and forth.
 
 I'm convinced that the only way to properly bleed the air from the circuit is 
 at the connection at the top of the rear struts.  When that part of the 
 circuit has been opened, it should be bled.
 
 Humour me, no cost other than time and a few drops of hydraulic fluid.  Try 
 bleeding the system my way - it just may solve your problem.
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston, SC

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