Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
Thanks for the info as to what the pumping of the accelerator (as recommended by the owner's manual) might be intended to achieve. I'm really not all that interested in the specifics of the inner workings if the IP and etc. I am interested in getting an understanding of the overall functions of the system (i.e. whether pumping the accelerator actually squirts fuel [which I now understand does not] and the like) so that I can make informed decisions on how to treat the thing not only during starting, but during driving, so as to achieve the best results. Thanks again for entertaining my simple questions. Brian 83 240D John B wrote: It seems that you have a genuine interest in how this all works. The IP is a highly technical device, if you have the desire for a more technical description, get your hands on an MB engine manual and give section 07 a good read where you will find more technical info. Putting it all into words is beyond my abilities, the authors of the manual, however, have done a wonderful job.
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
Zoltan Finks wrote: Ah! thanks. Yeah, I read in the owner's manual a couple interesting things on cold weather starting: They said not to interrupt the starting procedure, otherwise you may not get it started, or words to that effect. Yes. That's actually very important. Your best bet is to keep cranking it until it starts or until it becomes obvious the cause is hopeless. If you stop, you have to start the process all over, but with a weaker battery. I heard once from a VW mechanic that if the engine's going to start, it will fire within the first 15 seconds (though it may take more cranking than that to actually get it running.) 15 seconds doesn't sound like much, but it seems like a LONG time when you're cranking an engine. Interestingly, the indy that did my engine swap said, when I asked him the best way to start in the coldest conditions, not to touch the pedal at all, period. That's probably true on a fairly new engine. My manual mentions pumping the pedal three times in very cold conditions, and briefly depressing it while setting the idle thumbscrew on 240Ds, but says nothing about depressing the pedal while cranking. HOWEVER, I find that my car won't idle when it's first started without a little pressure on the accelerator. For that reason I hold about 1/4 throttle while cranking. I think this is compensating for a degree of wear that Mercedes didn't envision when writing the manual. I'm sure a new car would never need this. I ease off as the revs pick up, then only hold enough to keep the idle above 700 RPM. I don't wait for any warm-up at that point, I just put my left foot on the brake, shift into Drive, and drive off. Within a block the engine is warm enough to idle on its own. I discovered a few things in getting the old ill-fated engine to start, one of which was to keep that starter engaged 'til the thing was running adequately. This was counter to what I was used to. Yup, it's very different than a gasoline engine, where you let go the first time it fires. It takes some getting used to. A lot of people overlook it because the manual mentions it, but doesn't really call attention to it. David Brodbeck '83 300D Turbo
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
On Mar 10, 2006, at 4:36 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote: I think there might be a miscommunication here. I don't think John B was talking about flooring the accelerator after the engine is running, I think he meant floor the accelerator while you are cranking the starter, and the thing is sort of showing signs of starting, but is not really running yet. So I don't think he meant to just rev the heck out of the thing when it's cold. That would seem a bad idea to me too. Brian As it picks-up cylinders the accelerator is let up accordingly. I try to be clear about most things. Sorry if anyone blowed-up their engine, I have 3 good ones for $850ea. I would hope that common sense would kick-in at some point of the process. This is stuff that I'm just programmed to do, I don't really have to think about it at all. I kinda know what to expect when my breath freezes in my nostrils and on my moustache. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
On Fri, 10 Mar 2006 15:36:39 -0600 Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I think there might be a miscommunication here. I don't think John B was talking about flooring the accelerator after the engine is running, I think he meant floor the accelerator while you are cranking the starter, and the thing is sort of showing signs of starting, but is not really running yet. Yes! And once it starts running, back off on the accelerator to keep it running at a reasonable, Goldilocks speed (not too fast, not too slow, just right :-) ). As things warm up, you'll have to back off more. So I don't think he meant to just rev the heck out of the thing when it's cold. That would seem a bad idea to me too. Yes, that is a bad idea. Craig
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
Good to get all our cylinders in line. This brings me back to my question from yesterday: What about feathering when the thing is just getting going? That's always been my way of coaxing a cold gasser along. And further, what is the actual effect of feathering the pedal on this type of system. Does depressing the pedal actually squirt fuel? Or simply ratchet up the IP? Or what? As I said yesterday, I understand the workings of a carbureted gas engine, where there is a direct linkage between your foot and the accelerator pump which squirts fuel down the throats. But what about these diesel systems? Note: Those listers annoyed by such a simplistic, basic question may simply delete - no need to get worked up. Brian 83 240D On 3/10/06, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Fri, 10 Mar 2006 15:36:39 -0600 Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I think there might be a miscommunication here. I don't think John B was talking about flooring the accelerator after the engine is running, I think he meant floor the accelerator while you are cranking the starter, and the thing is sort of showing signs of starting, but is not really running yet. Yes! And once it starts running, back off on the accelerator to keep it running at a reasonable, Goldilocks speed (not too fast, not too slow, just right :-) ). As things warm up, you'll have to back off more. So I don't think he meant to just rev the heck out of the thing when it's cold. That would seem a bad idea to me too. Yes, that is a bad idea. Craig ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
On Mar 10, 2006, at 7:38 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote: Good to get all our cylinders in line. This brings me back to my question from yesterday: What about feathering when the thing is just getting going? That's always been my way of coaxing a cold gasser along. Feathering has no effect other than make for a real jerky ride. Everything is precisely metered by the IP and there is no squirting of extra fuel going on. They run better warmed up for sure and will not want to climb the slightest incline when dead cold. It takes from a few seconds to a few minutes to get running decently. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
Thanks. Good to know. BTW I wasn't referring to feathering while in motion, I meant when trying to start the engine. Yeah, jerky indeed, especially with a manny. Sounds like something we used to do to Mom's car as teens. Brian On 3/10/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Mar 10, 2006, at 7:38 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote: Good to get all our cylinders in line. This brings me back to my question from yesterday: What about feathering when the thing is just getting going? That's always been my way of coaxing a cold gasser along. Feathering has no effect other than make for a real jerky ride. Everything is precisely metered by the IP and there is no squirting of extra fuel going on. They run better warmed up for sure and will not want to climb the slightest incline when dead cold. It takes from a few seconds to a few minutes to get running decently. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
So am I to understand that throttle position has an effect on the metering of the IP * even before the engine starts (as in while initially cranking starter)?* It would seem so - otherwise, what could be the benefit of flooring the pedal while cranking? Also, what is the reason behind the owner's manual instructing us to pump the pedal to the floor three times prior to engaging the starter (for cold conditions)? (BTW, yes, I think it says to hold it to the floor after the three pumps) This sounds like the pumping of the pedal in a gasser - the function of which, of course, is to squirt a bunch of fuel down the intake to get things going. Brian 83 240D On 3/10/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Mar 10, 2006, at 7:38 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote: Good to get all our cylinders in line. This brings me back to my question from yesterday: What about feathering when the thing is just getting going? That's always been my way of coaxing a cold gasser along. Feathering has no effect other than make for a real jerky ride. Everything is precisely metered by the IP and there is no squirting of extra fuel going on. They run better warmed up for sure and will not want to climb the slightest incline when dead cold. It takes from a few seconds to a few minutes to get running decently. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
Zoltan Finks wrote: So am I to understand that throttle position has an effect on the metering of the IP * even before the engine starts (as in while initially cranking starter)?* It would seem so - otherwise, what could be the benefit of flooring the pedal while cranking? Also, what is the reason behind the owner's manual instructing us to pump the pedal to the floor three times prior to engaging the starter (for cold conditions)? (BTW, yes, I think it says to hold it to the floor after the three pumps) This sounds like the pumping of the pedal in a gasser - the function of which, of course, is to squirt a bunch of fuel down the intake to get things going. The greatest effect of pumping the pedal is to insure that the rack will move freely. Much of the linkage within the injection pump (that integrates pedal position, engine rpm, engine load, boost or atmospheric pressure, etc.) involves springs and weights - NOT rigid linkage. Pumping the pedal moves some parts from one extreme to the other thru the engine oil and fuel that may be stiff and not permit free movement without being shaken up. If you really want to know what's happening, Bosch has books describing their operation. The mechanical injection pump is a complex, remarkable device, made with great precision and capable of precise fuel metering for 10s of thousands of hours. Few technicians actually understand their fine points (I sure don't) and it requires very elaborate/expensive tools to adjust them properly. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
Hmm, I would have expected trusted in all CAPS unless I am reading too much into the back and forth. :) Andy On 3/10/06, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Zoltan Finks wrote: Actually I think I'll stick to consulting logical sources like I have, such as trusted Mercedes mechanics If you get the kind of information you've reported from trusted sources I think a re-evaluation of the meaning of trusted is needed. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
I do not advise feathering. Either make it run or not. If you want to play with it, it will not start has been my empirical experience. The wife had to start the e300d and tried the feathering stuff. Took us far longer to get her to just accept stomping on it and keeping the starter going until it caught fully. For some reason it wants fuel and feathering does not deliver any amount of value. Gump will not even consider making any starting noise if you feather. On Friday, March 10, 2006, at 04:38 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote: Good to get all our cylinders in line. This brings me back to my question from yesterday: What about feathering when the thing is just getting going? That's always been my way of coaxing a cold gasser along. And further, what is the actual effect of feathering the pedal on this type of system. Does depressing the pedal actually squirt fuel? Or simply ratchet up the IP? Or what? As I said yesterday, I understand the workings of a carbureted gas engine, where there is a direct linkage between your foot and the accelerator pump which squirts fuel down the throats. But what about these diesel systems? Note: Those listers annoyed by such a simplistic, basic question may simply delete - no need to get worked up. Brian 83 240D On 3/10/06, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Fri, 10 Mar 2006 15:36:39 -0600 Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I think there might be a miscommunication here. I don't think John B was talking about flooring the accelerator after the engine is running, I think he meant floor the accelerator while you are cranking the starter, and the thing is sort of showing signs of starting, but is not really running yet. Yes! And once it starts running, back off on the accelerator to keep it running at a reasonable, Goldilocks speed (not too fast, not too slow, just right :-) ). As things warm up, you'll have to back off more. So I don't think he meant to just rev the heck out of the thing when it's cold. That would seem a bad idea to me too. Yes, that is a bad idea. Craig ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
On Mar 10, 2006, at 8:55 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote: So am I to understand that throttle position has an effect on the metering of the IP * Yes. Also, what is the reason behind the owner's manual instructing us to pump the pedal to the floor three times prior to engaging the starter (for cold conditions)? I don't know but I will guess that it is to make sure the linkage returns and the internals are released from the last shut-down. There is Motor oil in the IP, earlier models have their own supply which must be topped off occasionally,( your 1983 uses the oil in your engine) I think the fuel shut-off can hang up in the off position if oil has the consistency of toothpaste. Another good reason to use synthetic oil. (BTW, yes, I think it says to hold it to the floor after the three pumps) This sounds like the pumping of the pedal in a gasser - the function of which, of course, is to squirt a bunch of fuel down the intake to get things going. To the best of my knowledge there is no fuel enrichment and no squirting going on. The pump runs off of a camshaft directly, there is one pump per cylinder and the camshaft determines the sequence of injection. It seems that you have a genuine interest in how this all works. The IP is a highly technical device, if you have the desire for a more technical description, get your hands on an MB engine manual and give section 07 a good read where you will find more technical info. Putting it all into words is beyond my abilities, the authors of the manual, however, have done a wonderful job. If my hp all-in-one didn't get fried by lightning, I would gladly scan and e-mail the pertinent pages to you. I haven't checked but I bet its on the skinnerbox website. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
Congrats on Wulf. This fuel heater. Sheesh another thing to think about. I would love to install a block heater before too long, but a fuel heater I had not given much thought to. Warm diesel fuel combusts better I'm assuming? Resulting in easier starts? Isn't it true that gasoline combusts better or more efficiently if cooler? Does it run on a timer? Or just when the key is turned? Runs off battery power I assume, as opposed to AC? Brian 83 240D On 3/9/06, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: $105some labor, some washers, a BOLT, and some bushings (on the brake torsion bar). Not a creek, clank, clunk, click, or squeal. After replacing all the ball joints and now finally securing the brake torsion bar, she sounds JUST LIKE NEW on every bump, ramp and dip. A beautiful thing. Indy gave me a free Stanadyne in-line diesel fuel heater (it's new in box, but old, he has a TON of them: auto temp sensing, heats fuel prior to engine start). Haven't looked at the instructions - obviously goes BEFORE fuel filter. I live in MO, not MN...but I guess it can't hurt. Any thoughts? I figured if there was any interest on the list and since he has TONS of them, maybe we can buy a qty in builk for dirt cheap? That's if they're worth the trouble. Thanks all, Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose -1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook -1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen -1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen) -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger - Yahoo! Mail Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
I'd be interested here in NE if you figure out that is easy to install and worth the ttrouble. Dwight Giles, Jr 1979 240D auto, 250K + miles 1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles Wickford, RI -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Christopher McCann Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 7:42 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free) $105some labor, some washers, a BOLT, and some bushings (on the brake torsion bar). Not a creek, clank, clunk, click, or squeal. After replacing all the ball joints and now finally securing the brake torsion bar, she sounds JUST LIKE NEW on every bump, ramp and dip. A beautiful thing. Indy gave me a free Stanadyne in-line diesel fuel heater (it's new in box, but old, he has a TON of them: auto temp sensing, heats fuel prior to engine start). Haven't looked at the instructions - obviously goes BEFORE fuel filter. I live in MO, not MN...but I guess it can't hurt. Any thoughts? I figured if there was any interest on the list and since he has TONS of them, maybe we can buy a qty in builk for dirt cheap? That's if they're worth the trouble. Thanks all, Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose -1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook -1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen -1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen) -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger - Yahoo! Mail Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
from the instructions: heat is supplied only when the temperature is low enough for wax particles to form. Power supply is to from an automotive type 12 VDC battery with an alternator system. So it must have a temp sensor that switches it on and off - neat. Locate a 12 volt wire (off and on with ignition switch) on a circuit able to handle the extra 7.5 amps that the heater will require. Suggestions on the back for many makes, but not Mercedes - all but one suggests 12 VDC source as Electrical shutoff lead on injection pump. For Toyota a specific terminal in the fusebox. Hmm...wonder where it should go an a W126 MB? The point isn't to heat the fuel so it combusts better but to heat the fuel as it starts to get wax crystals at cloud point. It rarely gets that cold here, and when it does, a spritz of GE-Betz OTR8932Q is the cheapest and best way to handle it. This will do nothing to help you start your car. If you don't treat your fuel and the lines and the tank gel up, this will not help. If the fuel clouds, but does not gel, it won't help starting much either, but WILL keep it running once started (wax won't clog filter, it will be melted by this thing). Hmm - Nifty device, but I would MUCH prefer it warm the fuel not at the cloud point of diesel BUT AT THE FREEZING POINT OF WATER...becuase emulsified water particles will freeze and clog your filter too. I'm MUCH more worried about that. Hmm - It could be rigged up to do that automatically...or you could bypass the timer entirely and put a switch on the dash and turn it on when it's below freezing or somehow change it to come on at 32, BUT THEN, it will be supplying heat as if it were at the cloud point (much colder) which will be WAY too much heat...maybe even enough to start a fire. BTW, WHERE are you? If it is regularly below freezing in winter...IA or north, even its nice in MO, GET A BLOCK HEATER AND FORGET ABOUT ALL THE OTHER GIZMOS - UNLESS it';s REALLY REALLY cold where you live, you don't need in-line fuel heaters, in-line coolant heaters and a block heater. That's for North Dakota and Alaska...maybe Minnesota, IMHRUO (IR=relatively U=uninformed). Chris Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Congrats on Wulf. This fuel heater. Sheesh another thing to think about. I would love to install a block heater before too long, but a fuel heater I had not given much thought to. Warm diesel fuel combusts better I'm assuming? Resulting in easier starts? Isn't it true that gasoline combusts better or more efficiently if cooler? Does it run on a timer? Or just when the key is turned? Runs off battery power I assume, as opposed to AC? Brian 83 240D On 3/9/06, Christopher McCann wrote: $105some labor, some washers, a BOLT, and some bushings (on the brake torsion bar). Not a creek, clank, clunk, click, or squeal. After replacing all the ball joints and now finally securing the brake torsion bar, she sounds JUST LIKE NEW on every bump, ramp and dip. A beautiful thing. Indy gave me a free Stanadyne in-line diesel fuel heater (it's new in box, but old, he has a TON of them: auto temp sensing, heats fuel prior to engine start). Haven't looked at the instructions - obviously goes BEFORE fuel filter. I live in MO, not MN...but I guess it can't hurt. Any thoughts? I figured if there was any interest on the list and since he has TONS of them, maybe we can buy a qty in builk for dirt cheap? That's if they're worth the trouble. Thanks all, Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose -1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook -1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen -1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen) -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger - Yahoo! Mail Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose -1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook -1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen -1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen) -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
If it's like most stanadyne heaters it should come on in the mid 30's ( where untreated junk diesel starts to cloud ) The factory stanadyne heater on my truck comes on at about 37 deg. The thing is self regulating, has some little circuit in it and is built into the filter head.. I'd be interested in one or two of those things if cheap enough. ---Robert Christopher McCann wrote: from the instructions: heat is supplied only when the temperature is low enough for wax particles to form. Power supply is to from an automotive type 12 VDC battery with an alternator system. So it must have a temp sensor that switches it on and off - neat. Locate a 12 volt wire (off and on with ignition switch) on a circuit able to handle the extra 7.5 amps that the heater will require. Suggestions on the back for many makes, but not Mercedes - all but one suggests 12 VDC source as Electrical shutoff lead on injection pump. For Toyota a specific terminal in the fusebox. Hmm...wonder where it should go an a W126 MB? The point isn't to heat the fuel so it combusts better but to heat the fuel as it starts to get wax crystals at cloud point. It rarely gets that cold here, and when it does, a spritz of GE-Betz OTR8932Q is the cheapest and best way to handle it. This will do nothing to help you start your car. If you don't treat your fuel and the lines and the tank gel up, this will not help. If the fuel clouds, but does not gel, it won't help starting much either, but WILL keep it running once started (wax won't clog filter, it will be melted by this thing). Hmm - Nifty device, but I would MUCH prefer it warm the fuel not at the cloud point of diesel BUT AT THE FREEZING POINT OF WATER...becuase emulsified water particles will freeze and clog your filter too. I'm MUCH more worried about that. Hmm - It could be rigged up to do that automatically...or you could bypass the timer entirely and put a switch on the dash and turn it on when it's below freezing or somehow change it to come on at 32, BUT THEN, it will be supplying heat as if it were at the cloud point (much colder) which will be WAY too much heat...maybe even enough to start a fire. BTW, WHERE are you? If it is regularly below freezing in winter...IA or north, even its nice in MO, GET A BLOCK HEATER AND FORGET ABOUT ALL THE OTHER GIZMOS - UNLESS it';s REALLY REALLY cold where you live, you don't need in-line fuel heaters, in-line coolant heaters and a block heater. That's for North Dakota and Alaska...maybe Minnesota, IMHRUO (IR=relatively U=uninformed). Chris Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Congrats on Wulf. This fuel heater. Sheesh another thing to think about. I would love to install a block heater before too long, but a fuel heater I had not given much thought to. Warm diesel fuel combusts better I'm assuming? Resulting in easier starts? Isn't it true that gasoline combusts better or more efficiently if cooler? Does it run on a timer? Or just when the key is turned? Runs off battery power I assume, as opposed to AC? Brian 83 240D On 3/9/06, Christopher McCann wrote: $105some labor, some washers, a BOLT, and some bushings (on the brake torsion bar). Not a creek, clank, clunk, click, or squeal. After replacing all the ball joints and now finally securing the brake torsion bar, she sounds JUST LIKE NEW on every bump, ramp and dip. A beautiful thing. Indy gave me a free Stanadyne in-line diesel fuel heater (it's new in box, but old, he has a TON of them: auto temp sensing, heats fuel prior to engine start). Haven't looked at the instructions - obviously goes BEFORE fuel filter. I live in MO, not MN...but I guess it can't hurt. Any thoughts? I figured if there was any interest on the list and since he has TONS of them, maybe we can buy a qty in builk for dirt cheap? That's if they're worth the trouble. Thanks all, Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose -1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook -1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen -1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen) -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger - Yahoo! Mail Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net Christopher McCann, Squier
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
if it comes on at 37, that would be great. I'll have to fiddle with it when I get back from vacation. You are on the list - don't know what they should go for. If he wants to get rid of them, should we offer $10 each? Comes with EVERYTHING you need (electrical and hose connectors, wires, etc) What do you think? May low ball at $5 each? Chris Robert Tara Ludwick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: If it's like most stanadyne heaters it should come on in the mid 30's ( where untreated junk diesel starts to cloud ) The factory stanadyne heater on my truck comes on at about 37 deg. The thing is self regulating, has some little circuit in it and is built into the filter head.. I'd be interested in one or two of those things if cheap enough. ---Robert Christopher McCann wrote: from the instructions: heat is supplied only when the temperature is low enough for wax particles to form. Power supply is to from an automotive type 12 VDC battery with an alternator system. So it must have a temp sensor that switches it on and off - neat. Locate a 12 volt wire (off and on with ignition switch) on a circuit able to handle the extra 7.5 amps that the heater will require. Suggestions on the back for many makes, but not Mercedes - all but one suggests 12 VDC source as Electrical shutoff lead on injection pump. For Toyota a specific terminal in the fusebox. Hmm...wonder where it should go an a W126 MB? The point isn't to heat the fuel so it combusts better but to heat the fuel as it starts to get wax crystals at cloud point. It rarely gets that cold here, and when it does, a spritz of GE-Betz OTR8932Q is the cheapest and best way to handle it. This will do nothing to help you start your car. If you don't treat your fuel and the lines and the tank gel up, this will not help. If the fuel clouds, but does not gel, it won't help starting much either, but WILL keep it running once started (wax won't clog filter, it will be melted by this thing). Hmm - Nifty device, but I would MUCH prefer it warm the fuel not at the cloud point of diesel BUT AT THE FREEZING POINT OF WATER...becuase emulsified water particles will freeze and clog your filter too. I'm MUCH more worried about that. Hmm - It could be rigged up to do that automatically...or you could bypass the timer entirely and put a switch on the dash and turn it on when it's below freezing or somehow change it to come on at 32, BUT THEN, it will be supplying heat as if it were at the cloud point (much colder) which will be WAY too much heat...maybe even enough to start a fire. BTW, WHERE are you? If it is regularly below freezing in winter...IA or north, even its nice in MO, GET A BLOCK HEATER AND FORGET ABOUT ALL THE OTHER GIZMOS - UNLESS it';s REALLY REALLY cold where you live, you don't need in-line fuel heaters, in-line coolant heaters and a block heater. That's for North Dakota and Alaska...maybe Minnesota, IMHRUO (IR=relatively U=uninformed). Chris Zoltan Finks wrote: Congrats on Wulf. This fuel heater. Sheesh another thing to think about. I would love to install a block heater before too long, but a fuel heater I had not given much thought to. Warm diesel fuel combusts better I'm assuming? Resulting in easier starts? Isn't it true that gasoline combusts better or more efficiently if cooler? Does it run on a timer? Or just when the key is turned? Runs off battery power I assume, as opposed to AC? Brian 83 240D On 3/9/06, Christopher McCann wrote: $105some labor, some washers, a BOLT, and some bushings (on the brake torsion bar). Not a creek, clank, clunk, click, or squeal. After replacing all the ball joints and now finally securing the brake torsion bar, she sounds JUST LIKE NEW on every bump, ramp and dip. A beautiful thing. Indy gave me a free Stanadyne in-line diesel fuel heater (it's new in box, but old, he has a TON of them: auto temp sensing, heats fuel prior to engine start). Haven't looked at the instructions - obviously goes BEFORE fuel filter. I live in MO, not MN...but I guess it can't hurt. Any thoughts? I figured if there was any interest on the list and since he has TONS of them, maybe we can buy a qty in builk for dirt cheap? That's if they're worth the trouble. Thanks all, Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose -1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook -1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen -1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen) -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger - Yahoo! Mail Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor:
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
Put me on the tentative list - thinking heating WVO? On 3/9/06, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: if it comes on at 37, that would be great. I'll have to fiddle with it when I get back from vacation. You are on the list - don't know what they should go for. If he wants to get rid of them, should we offer $10 each? Comes with EVERYTHING you need (electrical and hose connectors, wires, etc) What do you think? May low ball at $5 each? Chris -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK '90 300D 243K, Rattled '87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car '81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car '78 450SLC 67K, brown car '97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
Christopher McCann wrote: $105some labor, some washers, a BOLT, and some bushings (on the brake torsion bar). Not a creek, clank, clunk, click, or squeal. After replacing all the ball joints and now finally securing the brake torsion bar, she sounds JUST LIKE NEW on every bump, ramp and dip. A beautiful thing. Indy gave me a free Stanadyne in-line diesel fuel heater (it's new in box, but old, he has a TON of them: auto temp sensing, heats fuel prior to engine start). Haven't looked at the instructions - obviously goes BEFORE fuel filter. I live in MO, not MN...but I guess it can't hurt. Any thoughts? I figured if there was any interest on the list and since he has TONS of them, maybe we can buy a qty in builk for dirt cheap? That's if they're worth the trouble. Thanks all, At temps above zero, I've had NO trouble in cars without fuel heaters when using winterized fuel. The OM60x engines in my cars have fuel heaters and I believe they make a difference in REALLY cold weather (I've driven at temps down to 30 below F). There is NO advantage to heating fuel as long as it's warm enough to flow properly. When temps get much below zero, fuel flow becomes a problem with some fuel system designs (early VW diesels). With older Mercedes (pre OM61x engines), I've not had problems until temps got into the 20 below zero range (but starting at below zero was a real challenge with those engines). Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
I'm in that last one (MN). Have not had the 240D home here until just three weeks ago. I am expecting to not be able to use the thing when it gets very cold (until I get a block heater). The indy that installed my new (used) engine said that he removed, anti-siezed, and replaced the plug that accepts the factory heater. Thing that gets me is that the heater will benefit me at home, but if I take a trip somewhere, even to work let's say, and there is no plug in (which there won't be in most cases) I've got no heater and thus no start most likely. We don't plan on using the 240 in the winter if we can help it anyway. But there WILL inevitably be occasions when we must. Thanks Brian 83 240D Chris wrote: BTW, WHERE are you? If it is regularly below freezing in winter...IA or north, even its nice in MO, GET A BLOCK HEATER AND FORGET ABOUT ALL THE OTHER GIZMOS - UNLESS it';s REALLY REALLY cold where you live, you don't need in-line fuel heaters, in-line coolant heaters and a block heater. That's for North Dakota and Alaska...maybe Minnesota,
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
In a few words - Mobil 1 oil, new glow plugs, new battery, and adjust the valves - you should not have much trouble starting it in MN without the block heater. (My 240D was purchased new in MN by my Grandfather). We don't plan on using the 240 in the winter if we can help it anyway. But there WILL inevitably be occasions when we must. Thanks Brian 83 240D -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK '90 300D 243K, Rattled '87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car '81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car '78 450SLC 67K, brown car '97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
New glow plugs are not hotter - they're just not burned out, crusted with insulating soot, etc. The newer parallel version is much more efficient (and perhaps hotter?) - there are conversion kits (IIRC) available - call Rusty. On 3/9/06, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That's good to hear! There were actually klattas sold in this climate. We have adjusted valves, a new battery. I do know that there is a set of glows available that are somehow higher power for cold conditions? I had this and a bunch of other info. from the list stored away in another email account, but that account went away unexpectedly. The outfit that the acct. was with shall remain unnamed, but it contains the letters used in must switch now. Brian 83 240D On 3/9/06, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a few words - Mobil 1 oil, new glow plugs, new battery, and adjust the valves - you should not have much trouble starting it in MN without the block heater. (My 240D was purchased new in MN by my Grandfather). We don't plan on using the 240 in the winter if we can help it anyway. But there WILL inevitably be occasions when we must. Thanks Brian 83 240D -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK '90 300D 243K, Rattled '87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car '81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car '78 450SLC 67K, brown car '97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK '90 300D 243K, Rattled '87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car '81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car '78 450SLC 67K, brown car '97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
On Mar 9, 2006, at 9:52 PM, Marshall Booth wrote: I've not had problems until temps got into the 20 below zero range (but starting at below zero was a real challenge with those engines). Marshall I could only imagine. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
On Mar 9, 2006, at 10:22 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote: Thing that gets me is that the heater will benefit me at home, but if I take a trip somewhere, even to work let's say, and there is no plug in (which there won't be in most cases) I've got no heater and thus no start most likely. We don't plan on using the 240 in the winter if we can help it anyway. But there WILL inevitably be occasions when we must. Thanks Brian Brian, Use synthetic oil, have a good battery, glow-plugs and starter, make sure valves are adjusted a little loose and make sure your fuel is winterized. Your car should reliably start down to 0F and even below. A few glow cycles is also a must when it gets down there. It is also wise to crank, non-stop with the pedal floored until the engine is firing on enough cylinders to keep itself running. This can take quite a bit of cranking but it is necessary and the starter can handle it. If you carry a 50' and/or 100' extension cord you'd be surprised where you can plug in if needed. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
Yup. I was actually talking about a type of glow plug that is a bit different in that it glows either hotter or longer or something that benefits one in the cold. I know someone will jump in here with what I'm talking about. And someone will probably jump down my throat. Brian 83 240D On 3/9/06, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: New glow plugs are not hotter - they're just not burned out, crusted with insulating soot, etc. The newer parallel version is much more efficient (and perhaps hotter?) - there are conversion kits (IIRC) available - call Rusty. On 3/9/06, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That's good to hear! There were actually klattas sold in this climate. We have adjusted valves, a new battery. I do know that there is a set of glows available that are somehow higher power for cold conditions? I had this and a bunch of other info. from the list stored away in another email account, but that account went away unexpectedly. The outfit that the acct. was with shall remain unnamed, but it contains the letters used in must switch now. Brian 83 240D On 3/9/06, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a few words - Mobil 1 oil, new glow plugs, new battery, and adjust the valves - you should not have much trouble starting it in MN without the block heater. (My 240D was purchased new in MN by my Grandfather). We don't plan on using the 240 in the winter if we can help it anyway. But there WILL inevitably be occasions when we must. Thanks Brian 83 240D -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK '90 300D 243K, Rattled '87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car '81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car '78 450SLC 67K, brown car '97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK '90 300D 243K, Rattled '87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car '81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car '78 450SLC 67K, brown car '97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
Ah! thanks. Yeah, I read in the owner's manual a couple interesting things on cold weather starting: They said not to interrupt the starting procedure, otherwise you may not get it started, or words to that effect. And they said to pump it three times before cranking, and I forget whether they said to hold it to the floor or not, and yes, to keep the starter running 'til it the engine is running smoothly. Interestingly, the indy that did my engine swap said, when I asked him the best way to start in the coldest conditions, not to touch the pedal at all, period. But then again, cold to him is 30's. At any rate, I will certainly take your word and try your suggested method! I discovered a few things in getting the old ill-fated engine to start, one of which was to keep that starter engaged 'til the thing was running adequately. This was counter to what I was used to. ALSO: Seasoned dieseler, don't jump on me, but I want to ask what the effect of feathering the pedal during starting and while the thing is trying to get going. I don't have an understanding of the workings of the system like I do the workings of a carbureted gas engine, which actually squirts fuel with each pump via the accelerator pump. And thanks for the tip on the long extension cord. Will do. Brian 83 240D On 3/9/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Mar 9, 2006, at 10:22 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote: Thing that gets me is that the heater will benefit me at home, but if I take a trip somewhere, even to work let's say, and there is no plug in (which there won't be in most cases) I've got no heater and thus no start most likely. We don't plan on using the 240 in the winter if we can help it anyway. But there WILL inevitably be occasions when we must. Thanks Brian Brian, Use synthetic oil, have a good battery, glow-plugs and starter, make sure valves are adjusted a little loose and make sure your fuel is winterized. Your car should reliably start down to 0F and even below. A few glow cycles is also a must when it gets down there. It is also wise to crank, non-stop with the pedal floored until the engine is firing on enough cylinders to keep itself running. This can take quite a bit of cranking but it is necessary and the starter can handle it. If you carry a 50' and/or 100' extension cord you'd be surprised where you can plug in if needed. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
On Mar 9, 2006, at 11:02 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote: That's good to hear! There were actually klattas sold in this climate. We have adjusted valves, a new battery. I do know that there is a set of glows available that are somehow higher power for cold conditions? Brian, Where do you live and what is the lowest temperature in Winter? I live in a real cold area where it commonly gets below 0 and I have seen -36F. You will be OK with getting started and such, follow the advice you get here from those of us who do it all Winter every Winter . My 190D Euro has no block heater yet and started at -18F, just recently. I normally don't plug any of them in unless it looks like it will be below zero. My wife gets them going every time too, I gave her the low-down when I gave her first MB diesel to her. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
John, I live in SE Minnesota. Yes, it's southern MN, but it is cold, especially when wind chill is factored in (it is a windy region and the wind chill factors usually result in the same feel as up north MN, which doesn't get as much wind - this according to the weather reports on TV). We are very familiar with sub-zero. Each winter we can look forward to quite a few days below zero and some teens and twenties below (wind not factored in), and of course, if you want to talk abnormalities, we can match anyone but Alaska. I remember some 70 below wind chills. Big adjustment for an AZ boy. I've been here some 6 or 7 winters. Brian 83 240D On 3/9/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Mar 9, 2006, at 11:02 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote: That's good to hear! There were actually klattas sold in this climate. We have adjusted valves, a new battery. I do know that there is a set of glows available that are somehow higher power for cold conditions? Brian, Where do you live and what is the lowest temperature in Winter? I live in a real cold area where it commonly gets below 0 and I have seen -36F. You will be OK with getting started and such, follow the advice you get here from those of us who do it all Winter every Winter . My 190D Euro has no block heater yet and started at -18F, just recently. I normally don't plug any of them in unless it looks like it will be below zero. My wife gets them going every time too, I gave her the low-down when I gave her first MB diesel to her. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
On Mar 9, 2006, at 11:21 PM, OK Don wrote: New glow plugs are not hotter - they're just not burned out, crusted with insulating soot, etc. The newer parallel version is much more efficient (and perhaps hotter?) - there are conversion kits (IIRC) available - call Rusty. There is an afterglow kit, Brian's car had parallel GPs from the factory. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
On Mar 10, 2006, at 12:43 AM, Zoltan Finks wrote: John, I live in SE Minnesota. Yes, it's southern MN, but it is cold, especially when wind chill is factored in (it is a windy region and the wind chill factors usually result in the same feel as up north MN, which doesn't get as much wind - this according to the weather reports on TV). We are very familiar with sub-zero. Each winter we can look forward to quite a few days below zero and some teens and twenties below (wind not factored in), and of course, if you want to talk abnormalities, we can match anyone but Alaska. I remember some 70 below wind chills. Big adjustment for an AZ boy. I've been here some 6 or 7 winters. Brian 83 240D You can definitely benefit from what I posted earlier. A little extra valve clearance on the intakes makes a difference. The exhaust valves have enough at the normal setting.Once you get it right, you'll be fine. I keep some kero around and if I think about it I throw a few gallons in the tank and take a little ride a night or two before real low temps (Like 25 below). Just pushing the odds a little further in my favor. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
Zoltan Finks wrote: Interestingly, the indy that did my engine swap said, when I asked him the best way to start in the coldest conditions, not to touch the pedal at all, period. Maybe if you had the manual idle control and you turned it up at startup. I was reading up on the 60x pumps and it seems that there is a special startup mode built into the governor, that is engaged by pumping the pedal once while the engine isn't turning. I suspect the older cars have it too.
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
My POW (place of work) installed an outdoor outlet for me...now we have 4 employees with MB diesels and have to fight over the 2 outlets - look at the problems I caused for myself by converting them! Once the engine is hot, it takes a while to chill down to the point that it is hard to start, although when it gets REALLY cold, it chills pretty quickly. In Canada, there are outlets at supermarkets, McDonald's - all over, for the gas cars too. Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm in that last one (MN). Have not had the 240D home here until just three weeks ago. I am expecting to not be able to use the thing when it gets very cold (until I get a block heater). The indy that installed my new (used) engine said that he removed, anti-siezed, and replaced the plug that accepts the factory heater. Thing that gets me is that the heater will benefit me at home, but if I take a trip somewhere, even to work let's say, and there is no plug in (which there won't be in most cases) I've got no heater and thus no start most likely. We don't plan on using the 240 in the winter if we can help it anyway. But there WILL inevitably be occasions when we must. Thanks Brian 83 240D Chris wrote: BTW, WHERE are you? If it is regularly below freezing in winter...IA or north, even its nice in MO, GET A BLOCK HEATER AND FORGET ABOUT ALL THE OTHER GIZMOS - UNLESS it';s REALLY REALLY cold where you live, you don't need in-line fuel heaters, in-line coolant heaters and a block heater. That's for North Dakota and Alaska...maybe Minnesota, ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose -1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook -1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen -1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen) -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger - Yahoo! Mail Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fri Mar 10 14:33:39 2006 Received: from uproxy.gmail.com ([66.249.92.193]) by server5.arterytc5.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1FHigU-0001qM-Mw for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Fri, 10 Mar 2006 14:33:39 + Received: by uproxy.gmail.com with SMTP id u2so358158uge for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Fri, 10 Mar 2006 06:33:37 -0800 (PST) DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=beta; d=gmail.com; h=received:message-id:date:from:to:subject:mime-version:content-type; b=Vn6dphH4/Z5y8coal4mZKj+wYaR8VGrfZq2urebDqErZMFhare4JpnKIGsAquHOPN5AV1sz3wfR2fWJNFMxfo06mgz0EnikElT7orV7fH3hjQCqPsUtYXwL6iVN/H04VewuWjRPAd2fq3lGIMfxPZU2TKNcgLIM5ly89Y1tqCDQ= Received: by 10.66.243.20 with SMTP id q20mr1977093ugh; Fri, 10 Mar 2006 06:33:36 -0800 (PST) Received: by 10.66.225.20 with HTTP; Fri, 10 Mar 2006 06:33:36 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 08:33:36 -0600 From: Gary Thompson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: inline X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1.6 Subject: [MBZ] W123/OM617 parts for sale X-BeenThere: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.6 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_striplin.net.striplin.net List-Unsubscribe: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: http://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net List-Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 14:33:39 - All, After selling my 1984 300D several months ago, I finally got around to goin= g over my parts pile in the garage. Got a bunch of odds and ends. If anyone i= s intereseted in any of this stuff, make me an offer. If there's no interest here, it's off to Ebay for the lot. 4 OSRAM console/dash bulbs 1 door check strap, not new but in good shape approx 11 feet of fuel line in three pieces (~7 ft, ~3 ft, and ~1 ft) 1 lug wrench, official MB, relatively new 2 turbo drain O-rings (004 997 53 48) 1 oil pan, new (115 010 04 28) 2 rubber air cleaner mounts 1 transmission modulator pushrod, new (126 277 93 75) 1 transmission modulator seal, new (014 997 11 48) 1 transmission front pump gasket, new (126 271 12 80) 1 transmission
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
BERU sells an EXCELLENT kit (which required special glow plugs and a new (but cheap) relay). THese plugs get hotter faster, glow while starting and glow for up to 3 minutes after starting to reduce emissions and, I imagine, even out the engine right after start. Have them in my SD - THEY ARE GREAT! Chris Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That's good to hear! There were actually klattas sold in this climate. We have adjusted valves, a new battery. I do know that there is a set of glows available that are somehow higher power for cold conditions? I had this and a bunch of other info. from the list stored away in another email account, but that account went away unexpectedly. The outfit that the acct. was with shall remain unnamed, but it contains the letters used in must switch now. Brian 83 240D On 3/9/06, OK Don wrote: In a few words - Mobil 1 oil, new glow plugs, new battery, and adjust the valves - you should not have much trouble starting it in MN without the block heater. (My 240D was purchased new in MN by my Grandfather). We don't plan on using the 240 in the winter if we can help it anyway. But there WILL inevitably be occasions when we must. Thanks Brian 83 240D -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK '90 300D 243K, Rattled '87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car '81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car '78 450SLC 67K, brown car '97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose -1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook -1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen -1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen) -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger - Yahoo! Mail Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fri Mar 10 14:34:31 2006 Received: from web32805.mail.mud.yahoo.com ([68.142.206.35]) by server5.arterytc5.net with smtp (Exim 4.52) id 1FHihL-0001w5-8B for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Fri, 10 Mar 2006 14:34:31 + Received: (qmail 34476 invoked by uid 60001); 10 Mar 2006 14:34:28 - DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=s1024; d=yahoo.com; h=Message-ID:Received:Date:From:Subject:To:In-Reply-To:MIME-Version:Content-Type:Content-Transfer-Encoding; b=1RfHb7PN7TEhWKdaYTPEaIoHNk6Tv1f7nIa9HNWzgy5ZjMo2v3hq7SUhQNTV5CgWFxW2ccMvROS0uqEifRxs0T/yYncF61RDbaKxnkHFdTb722n6AbIgD7BTK+iIhK8YcrkX78DPkpk7Kw8ndipJDlrIKyGHYI/coWnlT0PyEPw= ; Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Received: from [198.51.119.130] by web32805.mail.mud.yahoo.com via HTTP; Fri, 10 Mar 2006 06:34:28 PST Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 06:34:28 -0800 (PST) From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In-Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1.6 Subject: Re: [MBZ] cold weather paranoia X-BeenThere: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.6 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_striplin.net.striplin.net List-Unsubscribe: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: http://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net List-Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 14:34:31 - If you've got access to electricity near your car theres a bunch of things you can do to get it to start even without a block heater. Although considering what they cost (cheap) I think you'd ought to get one. If that plug has been out get one soon so it doesn't have time to corrode and get annoying. Anyway as Jim Cathy is fond of mentioning you could take a hairdryer or heat gun and shoot it in the intake. That'll get you going pretty easy. Other ideas include a magnetic stick on heater (extremely inefficient) or electric blanket over the engine (be careful of fire), but all in all the block heater is the best idea. I'm not so lucky as
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
Zoltan Finks wrote: Ah! thanks. Yeah, I read in the owner's manual a couple interesting things on cold weather starting: They said not to interrupt the starting procedure, otherwise you may not get it started, or words to that effect. And they said to pump it three times before cranking, and I forget whether they said to hold it to the floor or not, and yes, to keep the starter running 'til it the engine is running smoothly. Interestingly, the indy that did my engine swap said, when I asked him the best way to start in the coldest conditions, not to touch the pedal at all, period. But then again, cold to him is 30's. At any rate, I will certainly take your word and try your suggested method! I discovered a few things in getting the old ill-fated engine to start, one of which was to keep that starter engaged 'til the thing was running adequately. This was counter to what I was used to. ALSO: Seasoned dieseler, don't jump on me, but I want to ask what the effect of feathering the pedal during starting and while the thing is trying to get going. I don't have an understanding of the workings of the system like I do the workings of a carbureted gas engine, which actually squirts fuel with each pump via the accelerator pump. And thanks for the tip on the long extension cord. Will do. What is it about following what Mercedes says about cold starting that you don't understand and why don't you want to follow what they recommend? They REALLY have started more Mercedes under worse conditions than almost anybody else!! Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
OK - My SARCASM warning light came on, brightly...please acknowledge that you are joking, so it will go out. Chris R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That really sounds abusive to a cold engine. Can they really handle this sort of thing without harm? I never try to start mine in the winter but even in the fall it was cool enough that it did not start like in the summer. I felt bad about having to hold the pedal down a bit to keep it running. Randy B -Original Message- Or at least part of it. A few glow cycles is also a must when it gets down there. It is also wise to crank, non-stop with the pedal floored until the engine is firing on enough cylinders to keep itself running. This can take quite a bit of cranking but it is necessary and the starter can handle it. Johnny B. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose -1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook -1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen -1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen) -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger - Yahoo! Mail Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fri Mar 10 17:49:51 2006 Received: from server344.com ([216.35.197.52]) by server5.arterytc5.net with esmtps (TLSv1:DES-CBC3-SHA:168) (Exim 4.52) id 1FHlkN-00063E-2i for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Fri, 10 Mar 2006 17:49:51 + Received: (qmail 24338 invoked by uid 504); 10 Mar 2006 17:49:41 - Received: from unknown (HELO ?192.168.1.10?) ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) by ns1.server344.com with SMTP; 10 Mar 2006 17:49:41 - Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 12:51:07 -0500 From: John Ervine [EMAIL PROTECTED] User-Agent: Mozilla Thunderbird 1.0.2 (Windows/20050317) X-Accept-Language: en-us, en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] References: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] In-Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Subject: Re: [MBZ] Two way antenna want 3 way 1233 300 TD X-BeenThere: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.6 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_striplin.net.striplin.net List-Unsubscribe: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: http://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net List-Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 17:49:51 - Levi Smith wrote: OK, so what exactly is the purpose of this semi-up option? I've never understood that. Unless you had some specific requirement like I need to clear this branch but I still want radio reception... The best that I can explain it is that the half-way position is an urban setting, while fully extended is for rural use. The antenna button in the center console is for fine tuning. Someone can certainly explain it better than that... -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 270+kmi 1980 300TD 175+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 81+kmi 1976 350SE 4-spd 163+kmi
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
Marshall: I'm going to say this with as much respect as I can muster: I did not say that I was not going to follow the guidelines in the owner's manual. I am simply trying to gather information from as many sources as possible. That is why I asked my indy. That is why I asked this list. And that is why I consulted the owner's manual. And I will continue to gather information, and to find what works for me in reality. And therein lies the crux of this issue - reality. I will find what works for me. I bounce questions off of people, then get their advice, then determine in my mind what to do with that advice. I know you greatly admire MB and have much experience with them. But I will do things my way, and you are free to do them yours. Thank you for your input, but I would ask, again as respectfully as I possibly can, that if your responses to my questions are going to include the type of demeaning language that you have written to me several times this week, then please refrain from directing any response to me in the future. Conversely, and preferrably, you can tell me specifically what it is that you do not like about me. As you well know, you are free to delete any of my posts if that's what you choose. Maybe this type of language is just your way. I know you are a senior, experienced man and a PhD and a Marine. But it is not my way. And I have been watching very closely, and I am the only one lately who has received such discourtesy from you. Brian 83 240D Marshall wrote: What is it about following what Mercedes says about cold starting that you don't understand and why don't you want to follow what they recommend? They REALLY have started more Mercedes under worse conditions than almost anybody else!! Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
On Mar 10, 2006, at 12:31 PM, R A Bennell wrote: . Can they really handle this sort of thing without harm? No doubt about it. All my cars are fine. SYNTHETIC OIL GIVES PEACE OF MIND AS WELL AS SUPERIOR PROTECTION Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
Actually no, I'm quite serious. I've only driven my old 300D (76 - 115) in the summer so I've never had to start it in really cold weather. I only bought it last summer in July. I drove it until Halloween and then put it in the garage for the winter. Toward the end of October it got a bit colder at night and it did not start quite like it did in July and August (obviously)come morning. I really have to say that I feel bad about forcing it to run when it is cold. I like to make sure that the oil pressure guage has pegged before trying to rev it up. I got accustomed to turning the cold idle control up until it warmed up and then turning it back down but I didn't have to do much more to cold start it through the summer. I feel even better if the motor has warmed up before I have to tromp on it much. Call me a wuss but I'm afraid of hurting the poor old thing. Once it is up to temp I don't mind pushing it hard but I sure hate to do so when it is cold. Randy B -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Christopher McCann Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 11:41 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free) OK - My SARCASM warning light came on, brightly...please acknowledge that you are joking, so it will go out. Chris R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That really sounds abusive to a cold engine. Can they really handle this sort of thing without harm? I never try to start mine in the winter but even in the fall it was cool enough that it did not start like in the summer. I felt bad about having to hold the pedal down a bit to keep it running. Randy B -Original Message- Or at least part of it. A few glow cycles is also a must when it gets down there. It is also wise to crank, non-stop with the pedal floored until the engine is firing on enough cylinders to keep itself running. This can take quite a bit of cranking but it is necessary and the starter can handle it. Johnny B.
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
I have yet to switch the car to synthetic. I changed the oil (put in Shell Rotella (sp?)) when I got it in July. Drove it 1500 miles before the end of Oct and changed it again before putting it to bed for the winter. Maybe I will change it to synthetic next fall before putting it away. I don't expect to put huge miles on it over a summer so should only need to change annually before storage. Randy B -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Berryman Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 1:40 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free) On Mar 10, 2006, at 12:31 PM, R A Bennell wrote: . Can they really handle this sort of thing without harm? No doubt about it. All my cars are fine. SYNTHETIC OIL GIVES PEACE OF MIND AS WELL AS SUPERIOR PROTECTION Johnny B.
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
well, as Herr Doktor has pointed out, 99% of engine wear is at start up. I feel bad about starting Wulf when its really cold, driving him 6 blocks and then parking (my commute). If you store it in the winter to preserve it, well I guess that's different. You'd do well to switch to M1 if you are concerned about protecting the engine. Engine wear is still highewst at startup even when the weather is warm or hot. warming up - do you let it sit for minutes to warm up? THAT hurts it. Again, from Herr Doktor, as soon as oil pressure pegs, off you go, but take it easy until you reach operating temp. All that idling cokes up the engine and diesels are VERY slow to warm up at idle. Once at operating temp, drive the heck out of it - blows out the carbon build up. I bought Wulf from a lady who drove it very nicely for 19 years. It was coked beyond recognition Diesel purge and 20,000 miles later and the engine's clean as a whistle. Speaking of which...need to follow up with that guy on EGR blocking kits. EGRegious soot injector! Chris R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Actually no, I'm quite serious. I've only driven my old 300D (76 - 115) in the summer so I've never had to start it in really cold weather. I only bought it last summer in July. I drove it until Halloween and then put it in the garage for the winter. Toward the end of October it got a bit colder at night and it did not start quite like it did in July and August (obviously)come morning. I really have to say that I feel bad about forcing it to run when it is cold. I like to make sure that the oil pressure guage has pegged before trying to rev it up. I got accustomed to turning the cold idle control up until it warmed up and then turning it back down but I didn't have to do much more to cold start it through the summer. I feel even better if the motor has warmed up before I have to tromp on it much. Call me a wuss but I'm afraid of hurting the poor old thing. Once it is up to temp I don't mind pushing it hard but I sure hate to do so when it is cold. Randy B -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Christopher McCann Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 11:41 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free) OK - My SARCASM warning light came on, brightly...please acknowledge that you are joking, so it will go out. Chris R A Bennell wrote: That really sounds abusive to a cold engine. Can they really handle this sort of thing without harm? I never try to start mine in the winter but even in the fall it was cool enough that it did not start like in the summer. I felt bad about having to hold the pedal down a bit to keep it running. Randy B -Original Message- Or at least part of it. A few glow cycles is also a must when it gets down there. It is also wise to crank, non-stop with the pedal floored until the engine is firing on enough cylinders to keep itself running. This can take quite a bit of cranking but it is necessary and the starter can handle it. Johnny B. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose -1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook -1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen -1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen) -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger - Yahoo! Mail Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fri Mar 10 20:22:46 2006 Received: from elasmtp-junco.atl.sa.earthlink.net ([209.86.89.63]) by server5.arterytc5.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1FHo8M-0007HK-Fy for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Fri, 10 Mar 2006 20:22:46 + DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=dk20050327; d=earthlink.net; b=I3zzUcycHqF8CUmNCVCRF1XRYyH1jcDWTHMxDMNUTWCxg/S6I7YXlWCY7jHK5DXA; h=Received:Mime-Version:In-Reply-To:References:Content-Type:Message-Id:From:Subject:Date:To:X-Mailer:X-ELNK-Trace:X-Originating-IP; Received: from [65.110.128.59] (helo=[192.168.2.74]) by elasmtp-junco.atl.sa.earthlink.net with asmtp (Exim 4.34) id 1FHo8I-0006sF-Ht for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Fri, 10 Mar 2006 15:22:45 -0500 Mime-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v746.2) In-Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] References: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-Id: [EMAIL PROTECTED] From: John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 15:22:39 -0500 To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Mailer: Apple Mail (2.746.2) X-ELNK-Trace:
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
I think there might be a miscommunication here. I don't think John B was talking about flooring the accelerator after the engine is running, I think he meant floor the accelerator while you are cranking the starter, and the thing is sort of showing signs of starting, but is not really running yet. So I don't think he meant to just rev the heck out of the thing when it's cold. That would seem a bad idea to me too. Brian 83 240D On 3/10/06, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Actually no, I'm quite serious. I've only driven my old 300D (76 - 115) in the summer so I've never had to start it in really cold weather. I only bought it last summer in July. I drove it until Halloween and then put it in the garage for the winter. Toward the end of October it got a bit colder at night and it did not start quite like it did in July and August (obviously)come morning. I really have to say that I feel bad about forcing it to run when it is cold. I like to make sure that the oil pressure guage has pegged before trying to rev it up. I got accustomed to turning the cold idle control up until it warmed up and then turning it back down but I didn't have to do much more to cold start it through the summer. I feel even better if the motor has warmed up before I have to tromp on it much. Call me a wuss but I'm afraid of hurting the poor old thing. Once it is up to temp I don't mind pushing it hard but I sure hate to do so when it is cold. Randy B -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Christopher McCann Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 11:41 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free) OK - My SARCASM warning light came on, brightly...please acknowledge that you are joking, so it will go out. Chris R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That really sounds abusive to a cold engine. Can they really handle this sort of thing without harm? I never try to start mine in the winter but even in the fall it was cool enough that it did not start like in the summer. I felt bad about having to hold the pedal down a bit to keep it running. Randy B -Original Message- Or at least part of it. A few glow cycles is also a must when it gets down there. It is also wise to crank, non-stop with the pedal floored until the engine is firing on enough cylinders to keep itself running. This can take quite a bit of cranking but it is necessary and the starter can handle it. Johnny B. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
Zoltan Finks wrote: Actually I think I'll stick to consulting logical sources like I have, such as trusted Mercedes mechanics If you get the kind of information you've reported from trusted sources I think a re-evaluation of the meaning of trusted is needed. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi
