Re: [neonixie-l] More crazy because of anime movie...

2019-04-28 Thread Mac Doktor


> On Apr 28, 2019, at 9:39 PM, gregebert  wrote:
> 
> Use a suction-type desoldering tool (Edsyn Soldapult has been my favorite for 
> almost 40 years now). First, apply a small amount of fresh solder as it will 
> help heat the joint more uniformly. Then suck away as much molten solder as 
> possible. Last step is to heat the wire with your soldering iron and wiggle 
> it so it's not bonded anywhere.

Ah, the old Soldapult. I have two of them. But for this I'd use a rework 
station. As others have said you want minimal heating time on those pins.

Hint. the Soldapult works better if you put a short piece of teflon tubing over 
the tip. I've used that trick for years.


Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
"The Mac Doctor"

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: More crazy because of anime movie...

2019-04-28 Thread Bill Notfaded
That's exactly what I was thinking Jeff.  That's part of the reason I
didn't think tubes like that soldered into a board were worth much.
They're halfway ruined already and by the time you might get some tubes out
unscathed they'll most likely be not really in the best shape.  I've
considered getting a board preheater.  If I see a decent one used I might
pick one up.  The hot air pencil does wonders.  For really temp sensitive
electronics... boards are always usually preheated in a production
environment.

Thanks I appreciate other thoughts about stuff like this.  Unless it's a
tube I just gotta have I think I'll pass on stuff like that unless it goes
cheap.

Bill
On Sun, Apr 28, 2019, 7:13 PM Jeff Walton  wrote:

> You don't have many options.
>
> Heating the pins of the tubes without heating the glass will stress the
> seals.  The pins weren't generally meant to be soldered, just don't leave
> the heat on too long.  In the good old days, the rework people actually
> heated the entire PCB from the bottom to recover parts and the removal is
> faster than doing it pin by pin.
>
> Jeff
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Bill Notfaded 
> Date: 4/28/19 9:03 PM (GMT-06:00)
> To: neonixie-l 
> Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: More crazy because of anime movie...
>
> I've got a metcal MX5000 and Haako hot air pencil rework station so I can
> get any solder out but what does the heat do to the tubes?  That's my
> concern.
>
> B
>
> On Sun, Apr 28, 2019, 6:39 PM gregebert  wrote:
>
>> Tugging on parts before they are properly unsoldered causes the most
>> damage.
>>
>> Use a suction-type desoldering tool (Edsyn Soldapult has been my favorite
>> for almost 40 years now). First, apply a small amount of fresh solder as it
>> will help heat the joint more uniformly. Then suck away as much molten
>> solder as possible. Last step is to heat the wire with your soldering iron
>> and wiggle it so it's not bonded anywhere.
>>
>> If the PCB is good-quality with ample hole-clearance, the device will be
>> completely loose.
>>
>> NEVER pry a device off a board; you will break pins (and damage the PCB
>> if that matters)
>>
>> --
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: More crazy because of anime movie...

2019-04-28 Thread Nicholas Stock
This is what I use...

https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Digital-Desoldering-Station-Built/dp/B00ABJ4AEC

Really happy with it.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 28, 2019, at 19:13, Jeff Walton  wrote:
> 
> You don't have many options.  
> 
> Heating the pins of the tubes without heating the glass will stress the 
> seals.  The pins weren't generally meant to be soldered, just don't leave the 
> heat on too long.  In the good old days, the rework people actually heated 
> the entire PCB from the bottom to recover parts and the removal is faster 
> than doing it pin by pin. 
> 
> Jeff 
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Bill Notfaded 
> Date: 4/28/19 9:03 PM (GMT-06:00)
> To: neonixie-l 
> Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: More crazy because of anime movie...
> 
> I've got a metcal MX5000 and Haako hot air pencil rework station so I can get 
> any solder out but what does the heat do to the tubes?  That's my concern.
> 
> B
> 
>> On Sun, Apr 28, 2019, 6:39 PM gregebert  wrote:
>> Tugging on parts before they are properly unsoldered causes the most damage.
>> 
>> Use a suction-type desoldering tool (Edsyn Soldapult has been my favorite 
>> for almost 40 years now). First, apply a small amount of fresh solder as it 
>> will help heat the joint more uniformly. Then suck away as much molten 
>> solder as possible. Last step is to heat the wire with your soldering iron 
>> and wiggle it so it's not bonded anywhere.
>> 
>> If the PCB is good-quality with ample hole-clearance, the device will be 
>> completely loose.
>> 
>> NEVER pry a device off a board; you will break pins (and damage the PCB if 
>> that matters)
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the 
>> Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: More crazy because of anime movie...

2019-04-28 Thread Jeff Walton
You don't have many options.  Heating the pins of the tubes without heating the 
glass will stress the seals.  The pins weren't generally meant to be soldered, 
just don't leave the heat on too long.  In the good old days, the rework people 
actually heated the entire PCB from the bottom to recover parts and the removal 
is faster than doing it pin by pin. Jeff 
 Original message From: Bill Notfaded  
Date: 4/28/19  9:03 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: neonixie-l 
 Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: More crazy because 
of anime movie... I've got a metcal MX5000 and Haako hot air pencil rework 
station so I can get any solder out but what does the heat do to the tubes?  
That's my concern.BOn Sun, Apr 28, 2019, 6:39 PM gregebert 
 wrote:Tugging on parts before they are properly 
unsoldered causes the most damage.Use a suction-type desoldering tool (Edsyn 
Soldapult has been my favorite for almost 40 years now). First, apply a small 
amount of fresh solder as it will help heat the joint more uniformly. Then suck 
away as much molten solder as possible. Last step is to heat the wire with your 
soldering iron and wiggle it so it's not bonded anywhere.If the PCB is 
good-quality with ample hole-clearance, the device will be completely 
loose.NEVER pry a device off a board; you will break pins (and damage the PCB 
if that matters)



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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: More crazy because of anime movie...

2019-04-28 Thread Bill Notfaded
I've got a metcal MX5000 and Haako hot air pencil rework station so I can
get any solder out but what does the heat do to the tubes?  That's my
concern.

B

On Sun, Apr 28, 2019, 6:39 PM gregebert  wrote:

> Tugging on parts before they are properly unsoldered causes the most
> damage.
>
> Use a suction-type desoldering tool (Edsyn Soldapult has been my favorite
> for almost 40 years now). First, apply a small amount of fresh solder as it
> will help heat the joint more uniformly. Then suck away as much molten
> solder as possible. Last step is to heat the wire with your soldering iron
> and wiggle it so it's not bonded anywhere.
>
> If the PCB is good-quality with ample hole-clearance, the device will be
> completely loose.
>
> NEVER pry a device off a board; you will break pins (and damage the PCB if
> that matters)
>
> --
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: More crazy because of anime movie...

2019-04-28 Thread Nicholas Stock
Buy a proper desoldering stationthey work amazing well for these types of 
things. I desoldered about 100 DR2000 numitrons this way and no problems at all.

However, >$225 for a set of NL900 on a board without evidence of test is quite 
frankly bat shit crazy, but hey, such are the times

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 28, 2019, at 18:39, gregebert  wrote:
> 
> Tugging on parts before they are properly unsoldered causes the most damage.
> 
> Use a suction-type desoldering tool (Edsyn Soldapult has been my favorite for 
> almost 40 years now). First, apply a small amount of fresh solder as it will 
> help heat the joint more uniformly. Then suck away as much molten solder as 
> possible. Last step is to heat the wire with your soldering iron and wiggle 
> it so it's not bonded anywhere.
> 
> If the PCB is good-quality with ample hole-clearance, the device will be 
> completely loose.
> 
> NEVER pry a device off a board; you will break pins (and damage the PCB if 
> that matters)
> -- 
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[neonixie-l] Re: More crazy because of anime movie...

2019-04-28 Thread gregebert
Tugging on parts before they are properly unsoldered causes the most damage.

Use a suction-type desoldering tool (Edsyn Soldapult has been my favorite 
for almost 40 years now). First, apply a small amount of fresh solder as it 
will help heat the joint more uniformly. Then suck away as much molten 
solder as possible. Last step is to heat the wire with your soldering iron 
and wiggle it so it's not bonded anywhere.

If the PCB is good-quality with ample hole-clearance, the device will be 
completely loose.

NEVER pry a device off a board; you will break pins (and damage the PCB if 
that matters)

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[neonixie-l] More crazy because of anime movie...

2019-04-28 Thread Bill Notfaded
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NIXIE-Tubes-Assembly-National-Electronics-NL-900-7-tubes-/254212409800

I bid early on the when it was less than 100$... The fact that the tubes are 
soldered to the board may not be good for them.  I'm not experienced with 
soldering tubes to boards... It's just not the method I would do I don't think.

Can you degass or hurt the tubes with heat on the pins?

Bill

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Re: [neonixie-l] Cd27 on eBay...

2019-04-28 Thread Bill Notfaded
Exactly mega props to Dalibor!  I'm determined to build another big tube clock 
with his tubes because he did an amazing thing and I support that.  I'd like 
some of the old tubes too but at that kind of price you either gotta be able to 
spend stupid money or be smoking crack.  I'm not doing either.  I tried to 
figure out a way to justify buying one of these tubes... No matter how I try it 
can't be done.

B

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Re: [neonixie-l] Cd27 on eBay...

2019-04-28 Thread Kevin A.
Exactly. This is analogous to any other sort of rare item collecting. Why
would somebody pay $48 million for a 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO? Not because
they're actually going to drive or enjoy it in a traditional sense. It's
just about one-upping all the other collectors. Personally I think it's
foolish, but for others its seems having bragging rights is a hobby and/or
measure of self esteem...

On Sun, Apr 28, 2019, 11:32 AM gregebert  wrote:

> I guess it all depends upon whether or not you are a purist with unlimited
> money and patience. Auctions are so rare for these devices that it will
> take years to get a set of 6 for a clock.
>
> The RZ568m (Dalibor's tube) is essentially the same height (50mm) vs 54mm
> for the CD27. For less than the cost of 1 CD27, you can get 6 RZ568's with
> a 10-year warranty.
>
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Re: [neonixie-l] Cd27 on eBay...

2019-04-28 Thread gregebert
I guess it all depends upon whether or not you are a purist with unlimited 
money and patience. Auctions are so rare for these devices that it will 
take years to get a set of 6 for a clock.

The RZ568m (Dalibor's tube) is essentially the same height (50mm) vs 54mm 
for the CD27. For less than the cost of 1 CD27, you can get 6 RZ568's with 
a 10-year warranty.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Tube/bulbs for colon separators?

2019-04-28 Thread Jasper C.
Hi Yan,

Thanks!  Those pictures are useful.  Will be giving the 3mm neons a try.

Have just placed an order from your store for 2 of the NCH8200HV power 
supplies, and sent you a PM about the 3mm bulbs.



On Sunday, 28 April 2019 20:04:51 UTC+8, 严泽远 wrote:
>
> Hi Jasper,
>
> I'm using φ3x12mm neon lamps for my Omnixie clock, two neons covered by a 
> φ6mm glass tube, glass tube fixed on PCB board by an O ring.
> You also can drive them easily with DC170V, just connect a 240K resistor, 
> same color with Nixie tubes even dimming by PWM controller.
> Please check pictures.
>
> Yan.
>
>
> 在 2019年4月27日星期六 UTC+8下午11:07:11,Jasper C.写道:
>>
>> What are my options for colon separators to use in a nixie clock?  I'm 
>> looking for something that works with small tubes, say GR10M/U or even 
>> better, IN-17s.
>>
>> I know there's the INS-1, but it does still seem a little big.  I also 
>> know Yan has some 3mm neon bulbs on his store, but are those a good match 
>> to nixies?
>>
>> While I'm at it, are there any equivalent tubes (colon separators) for 
>> VFDs?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Cd27 on eBay...

2019-04-28 Thread jb-electronics
Also a B-7031 here: 
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Nixie-B-7031-Burroughs-rare-collectible-prototype-jumbo-mesh-less-tube-new/113731325158


Cheers
Jens

On 2019-04-28 8:32 a.m., Kevin A. wrote:
Price is outrageous. Like the other tubes he wants over twice as much. 
I think 5-600 euro would've been realistic, but this guy is too 
greedy. It's not a CD47...


On Sun, Apr 28, 2019, 9:01 AM Bill Notfaded > wrote:


Is you can find enough a clock will cost you almost 8 grand...


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nixie-RODAN-CD27-tube-OKAYA-ELECT-CD-27-big-numeric-indicator-tube/113731162944

Bill

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[neonixie-l] tiny neons source for colon separators

2019-04-28 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  CAUTION high voltage information :
  If you look around for single-use cameras with flash tube on the upper front which are made for weddings etc - I find them at resale stores such as  Good Will or Salvation army etc.for a dollar  - I press and hold down the flash button on the front of the camera and if the ready light comes on in neon orange ( but not LED green or red),  then it contains a tiny neon lamp which can be removed after the outer shell of the camera is removed. If the camera is very old, the internal AA-battery may be discharged and no light comes on.  Watch out for the high voltage capacitor inside - it may have up to 330 volts across the terminals - I discharge with a screw driver and get a loud bang.  Do this discharge before any further handling of the flash board.
  
   -- Original Message --From: Paul Andrews Date: April 28, 2019 at 7:21 AMThey don’t need AC. They will run off DC, but only one electrode will light up. Also, 60V will be either the maintenance voltage or the minimum strike voltage. You can think of them as small Nixie tubes, so you just need to calculate a suitable current limiting resistor, like you do for nixies.-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/736e02a1-838a-473f-93b8-3b52b1101ea1%40googlegroups.com.For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
  
 




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Re: [neonixie-l] Cd27 on eBay...

2019-04-28 Thread Kevin A.
Price is outrageous. Like the other tubes he wants over twice as much. I
think 5-600 euro would've been realistic, but this guy is too greedy. It's
not a CD47...

On Sun, Apr 28, 2019, 9:01 AM Bill Notfaded  wrote:

> Is you can find enough a clock will cost you almost 8 grand...
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nixie-RODAN-CD27-tube-OKAYA-ELECT-CD-27-big-numeric-indicator-tube/113731162944
>
> Bill
>
> --
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[neonixie-l] Re: Cd27 on eBay...

2019-04-28 Thread alex nolan
Just saw this myself. It's such a wonderful looking tube, but what a crazy 
price...

On Sunday, April 28, 2019 at 9:01:50 AM UTC-4, Bill Notfaded wrote:
>
> Is you can find enough a clock will cost you almost 8 grand...
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nixie-RODAN-CD27-tube-OKAYA-ELECT-CD-27-big-numeric-indicator-tube/113731162944
>
> Bill
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Cd27 on eBay...

2019-04-28 Thread Bill Notfaded
Is you can find enough a clock will cost you almost 8 grand...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nixie-RODAN-CD27-tube-OKAYA-ELECT-CD-27-big-numeric-indicator-tube/113731162944

Bill

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Re: [neonixie-l] Tube/bulbs for colon separators?

2019-04-28 Thread Paul Andrews
They don’t need AC. They will run off DC, but only one electrode will light up. 
Also, 60V will be either the maintenance voltage or the minimum strike voltage. 
You can think of them as small Nixie tubes, so you just need to calculate a 
suitable current limiting resistor, like you do for nixies.

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[neonixie-l] Looking for book "Electronic clocks and watches" by Robbins in PDF-format.

2019-04-28 Thread Dekatron42
Does anyone have the book "Looking for book "Electronic clocks and watches" 
by Robbins as a PDF file and can share it with me?

I know I can buy the book from several places but with shipping and VAT it 
gets quite expensive to have shipped to me.

/Martin

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