What's this?

2012-05-31 Thread William Robb

A good friend passed away recently, and we don't know what this is for sure.
I think it's a lamp of some sort.
Anyone know what it is, really?
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59183.jpg
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59185.jpg

Thanks

--

William Robb


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RE: Improving the technical quality of my photography

2012-05-31 Thread Bob W
[...]
 
 Rather than having a default, I expect that the correct solution is to
 know when which platform is the best.  What guidelines do you use?
 

My default is simple. Leave the tripod and stuff at home except when
shooting brick walls or some similar test, or when using humungously long
lenses - anything above about 200mm on a 35mm system; and even then a bean
bag is often better than a tripod. 

It's all just clutter and contributes nothing to the type of picture I take.
I suspect it will contribute practically nothing to yours either.

Normally I try to shoot at a shutter speed higher than the lens focal
length, which is the old rule of thumb and seems to work quite well. If I
need to shoot at slow shutter speeds I brace or otherwise prop the camera on
something.

I agree with other suggestions to use the best lenses possible, and I do
still feel more comfortable with manual focus.

 I currently have three heads 

Hmm.


 with the ubiquitous manfrotto mount.
 
 A 486RC2 ball head
 A 352RC ball head
 A 804RC2 three axis head
 
 I'm using a Manfrotto 3443 Carbon one 441 base
 
 The above setup seems to work pretty well, until I throw the bigma or
 suchlike on, in which case, using the metric of does it change
 position when you let go?  at least the three axis head sags.
 
 What would it take to substantially improve what I have for a tripod
 head?  Would I be able to do so and stay with the same ubiquitous mount
 that already works with the several heads I now have?
 
 Just as I was finishing up the above,  I got a couple more excellent
 replies from Bruce and Collin
 
 
 Begin forwarded message:
 
  From: Bruce Walker bruce.wal...@gmail.com
  Date: May 30, 2012 4:42:59 PM PDT
  To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
  Subject: Re: Improving the technical quality of my photography
  Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 
  Sharpness: easy one. When it matters:
  - use low ISO (no higher than 200)
 
 Good to know.  I try to go for 80 when I can (it seems to give more DR
 than 100 based on DxO), but often push it as far as 640.
 
  - light your subject well (exposure!)
  - use the center focus point on something lit and detailed
 
 The topic of how to focus is another interesting one.  In my
 experience, if the autofocus focuses on the right thing, it will do
 better than manual.
 For manual focus, it seems as if I get the best results using Live
 View.
 
 
  - focus on eyes in portraits (use manual focus-point setting)
  - use higher shutter speeds (125th and up)
 
 I suspect this also depends a bit on the focal length.
 
 What about using strobes?  Either studio or speedlight?  Are they fast
 enough that a tripod doesn't give much/any advantage?
 
  - use tripod, monopod, or lean against something solid
 
 In what cases do image stabilization help or hurt?  I've read lots of
 discussion one way or another about using it on a tripod.  I suspect
 that it mostly matters how well damped the tripod is.
 
 
  - don't breath while pressing shutter
  - use pro glass (eg DA*)
 
 My three most common lenses to use are DA* 16-50, FA31 and FA77
 followed by DA40ltd and DA50/2.8 macro or Tamron 90/2.8 macro (thanks
 Sasha, I dread the day you ask for it back), Sigma 20/1.8 and 18-250.
 Obviously my 18-250 isn't the sharpest lens in my bag.
 
  - keep your glass clean
 
 How to clean it?  Lens pen?
 
  - avoid using filters (like UV); *especially* cheap ones
 
 I have been avoiding them, though there now seems to be a slight
 scratch at the edge of the front element of my 16-50.
 
  - set aperture in sweet range for lens (eg not wide open)
 
 Two stops?  Set program for MTF priority and see what it says?
 Research it for each lens and note it's sweet spot?
 
  - use mirror lockup when you can
  - use timed shutter or remote release when you can
  - use input and output sharpening passes in post-processing
 
 I'm not familiar with these details.
 
  - avoid too much noise-reduction
  - shoot RAW
 
 I always do.
 
 
  Do *all* of the above together for max sharpness.
 
  On exposure: not sure what to say to you here. You need to be mindful
  of how well your matrix metering works so you know when you need to
  compensate; when you need to switch to spot metering; when you should
  use a light meter. You've been doing the difficult boundary cases so
  long this should be like shooting fish in a barrel for you by now.
 
 It should be.  I always check the histogram and blinkies.
 
 
  What other poor technical quality did you have in mind? Eg: poor
  contrast / too much contrast? Over / under saturated?
 
 Nothing in particular.  I'm as much trying to learn what I need to
 learn.
 
 
  For most stuff like that, I recommend looking at a lot of images,
 then
  keeping what you have seen in mind when post-processing. I spend more
  time looking at other people's work than I do at my own. I seek out
  work that's like what I want to do and spend quality time *really*
  appreciating it.
 
 
  I think 

Re: I had nothing better to do this morning...

2012-05-31 Thread Tim Øsleby
Why turn this guy into a mystery?
He is just another sociopat with internet connection. There is plenty
of them out there.

--
MaritimTim

My private photo blog: http://maritimtim.blogspot.com/
My photo class blog: http://z-fotokurs.blogspot.com/


To err is human
to arr is pirate



2012/5/30 P. J. Alling webstertwenty...@gmail.com:
 So I visited a few despised sites...

 No link because I don't want to give him traffic, but RiceWhine makes
 Kennyboy look like a super genius, or in other words, RiceWhine is an idiot.
  I can't believe he's got a following.  I really can't.

 --
 Don't lose heart!  They might want to cut it out, and they'll want to avoid
 a lengthily search.


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RE: What's this?

2012-05-31 Thread Bob W
 From: pdml-boun...@pdml.net [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of
 William Robb
 
 A good friend passed away recently, and we don't know what this is for
 sure.
 I think it's a lamp of some sort.
 Anyone know what it is, really?
 http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59183.jpg
 http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59185.jpg
 

it's an interesting exercise in affordance!

To me it looks as though the base should be attached to a wall or ceiling
and the hooks use to hang something. Perhaps a penny-farthing bicycle - it
has an Edwardian feel to it. 

Perhaps it's something from inside an old wardrobe. 

B


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Re: What's this?

2012-05-31 Thread Cotty
On 31/5/12, William Robb, discombobulated, unleashed:

A good friend passed away recently, and we don't know what this is for sure.
I think it's a lamp of some sort.
Anyone know what it is, really?
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59183.jpg
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59185.jpg

A Victorian device for viewing Uranus.

Seriously?

I'd love to know!

--


Cheers,
  Cotty


___/\__
||   (O)  | People, Places, Pastiche
--  http://www.cottysnaps.com
_



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Re: cormorant advice solicited

2012-05-31 Thread Underpaid N. Overpentaxed
That is what I want to get away from :)

2012/5/31 John Coyle jco...@iinet.net.au:

 Unfortunately, my photos of them are not of a standard sufficient to exhibit 
 to this
 group!

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defringe

2012-05-31 Thread Toine
LR 4.1 is out. The defringe tool is new. A quick test:

http://www.repiuk.nl/index.php/blog-mainmenu-97/221-defringe

I'm impressed.

Toine

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Re: What's this?

2012-05-31 Thread Underpaid N. Overpentaxed
It looks to me like a two-piece candle holder - one part for
stationary illumination, one part to carry, extinguish and store a
candle. Probably used to read and then take the last walk to the loo
for the night. Also handy for somnambulists to prepare for the odd
accidental wake-up.
Cheers
Ecke

2012/5/31 Cotty cotty...@mac.com:
 On 31/5/12, William Robb, discombobulated, unleashed:

A good friend passed away recently, and we don't know what this is for sure.
I think it's a lamp of some sort.
Anyone know what it is, really?
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59183.jpg
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59185.jpg

 A Victorian device for viewing Uranus.

 Seriously?

 I'd love to know!

 --


 Cheers,
  Cotty


 ___/\__
 ||   (O)  |     People, Places, Pastiche
 --      http://www.cottysnaps.com
 _



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RE: What's this?

2012-05-31 Thread Bob W
no drip-catcher - you'd burn your fingers.

This device here:
http://www.web-options.com/Stand1.jpg
http://www.web-options.com/Stand2.jpg

is one of my bike stands. It has a very similar structure to Bill's mystery
object, except that the hooks are inverted. This is why I think the conical
part should be attached to a wall or ceiling.

B

 -Original Message-
 From: pdml-boun...@pdml.net [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of
 Underpaid N. Overpentaxed
 Sent: 31 May 2012 10:41
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
 Subject: Re: What's this?
 
 It looks to me like a two-piece candle holder - one part for stationary
 illumination, one part to carry, extinguish and store a candle.
 Probably used to read and then take the last walk to the loo for the
 night. Also handy for somnambulists to prepare for the odd accidental
 wake-up.
 Cheers
 Ecke
 
 2012/5/31 Cotty cotty...@mac.com:
  On 31/5/12, William Robb, discombobulated, unleashed:
 
 A good friend passed away recently, and we don't know what this is
 for sure.
 I think it's a lamp of some sort.
 Anyone know what it is, really?
 http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59183.jpg
 http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59185.jpg
 
  A Victorian device for viewing Uranus.
 
  Seriously?
 
  I'd love to know!
 
  --
 
 
  Cheers,
   Cotty
 
 
  ___/\__
  ||   (O)  |     People, Places, Pastiche
  --      http://www.cottysnaps.com
  _
 
 
 
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 and follow the directions.
 
 
 
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 Sent from my iP address
 
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Re: What's this?

2012-05-31 Thread Stan Halpin
Am not sure of the size from your photos, but it could be for fire starting 
items: matchsticks in the shorter base, longer bits of kindling in the taller 
tube.

stan

On May 31, 2012, at 2:52 AM, William Robb wrote:

 A good friend passed away recently, and we don't know what this is for sure.
 I think it's a lamp of some sort.
 Anyone know what it is, really?
 http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59183.jpg
 http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59185.jpg
 
 Thanks
 
 -- 
 
 William Robb
 


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Re: OT on Lr 4 being unusably slow

2012-05-31 Thread Stan Halpin
I have a late-2006 iMac with 2.16 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, 2 gb memory. Before I 
bought this machine, I had for years used a Powerbook as my only computer, but 
I needed to upgrade in order to handle LR and the like. I understand that newer 
better (?) program versions are going to use more code, exhibit some feature 
bloat, and possibly require upgrades to processors, OS, and/or memory. But LR 
in particular bugs me because it was touted as a modular program, and I would 
think that the individual modules could still be reasonably svelte and speedy. 
I haven't gone from LR3 to LR4 in part because I saw no improvements worth 
paying for, in part because of concerns about speed, memory etc. I am sure I'll 
get there sooner or later though, and am glad you all are working through the 
issues!

stan

On May 29, 2012, at 9:45 AM, Christine Aguila wrote:

 Looks like I'll have to add some memory to my iMac before upgrading.  I have 
 4 gigs of ram--probably upgrade to 8 just to be on the safe side.   Thanks 
 for mentioning this, Bruce.   Cheers, Christine
 
 On May 28, 2012, at 8:15 PM, Tim Bray wrote:
 
 I upgraded to a slightly-faster computer with 8G of RAM and it was
 like night and day.  We’ll never go back to the halcyon days of
 Lightroom 1 (now *that* was fast), but it’s perfectly acceptable; you
 just need more memory. -T
 
 On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 6:11 PM, Bruce Walker bruce.wal...@gmail.com wrote:
 I don't understand why nobody has posted here about Lightroom 4 being
 so dog-slow.
 


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Re: What's this?

2012-05-31 Thread Ann Sanfedele
Fascinating thing -- I'd guess the longer tube is about 6 inches long, 
looking at it in relation to the grain in the wood it is sitting on.



What about an incense holder? nah... I thought candle holder at first 
but someone pointed out the wax would drip.


Good fun to try to figure it out -- might be a very nice item to sell on 
ebay :-)


ann


On 5/31/2012 07:18, Stan Halpin wrote:

Am not sure of the size from your photos, but it could be for fire starting 
items: matchsticks in the shorter base, longer bits of kindling in the taller 
tube.

stan

On May 31, 2012, at 2:52 AM, William Robb wrote:


A good friend passed away recently, and we don't know what this is for sure.
I think it's a lamp of some sort.
Anyone know what it is, really?
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59183.jpg
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59185.jpg

Thanks

--

William Robb






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Re: Rock Climber

2012-05-31 Thread Daniel J. Matyola
Years ago, I visited home on those tiny little lots in Essex and in
Hudson.  Before suburban sprawl, those neighborhoods were the land of
opportunity for working class families .
Dan Matyola
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola


On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 12:12 AM, Dmitry Gromov grom...@gmail.com wrote:
 hi

 On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 12:11 AM,  kwal...@peoplepc.com wrote:
 Sounds like you lived in Essex or Hudson county.


 Actually it was in Hudson County, in the city of Bayonne - often referred to
 by Jackie Gleason  the home of Chuck Wepner.


 Right, there is much more space in Essex county compared to Hudson! :)

 --
 //DG LOC(NJ)
 //*

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Re: Improving the technical quality of my photography

2012-05-31 Thread Jack Davis
Haven't read but a couple of contributions to this thread and this may have 
been pretty much rung out, but soft images seem a constant. In most cases, if 
this were an intended effect, you would expect it to be obvious.
A steady hold or solid rest would be the answer, as we all know, but lacking 
these things, raising the sensitivity and increasing the shutter speed would 
help in many situations.
Post processing is too large an issue to even attempt to address.at least for 
me.

 J

Jack Davis
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/artists/jackdavis
http://www.photolightimages.com


- Original Message -
From: kwal...@peoplepc.com kwal...@peoplepc.com
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2012 9:16 PM
Subject: Re: Improving the technical quality of my photography

 I think that one of the things that is happening here is that we're getting 
 comments from photographers of different genres.

Bingo ! I think there is quite a mixture of genres on the list and what works 
for one doesn't necessarily work for others.

One on the reasons I don't regularly respond to other than outdoor/ wildlife 
pesos.


Kenneth Waller
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/kennethwaller

- Original Message - From: knarftheria...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Improving the technical quality of my photography


 A developing theme certainly seems to be forming: that of slowing it down, 
 taking your time, getting it right.
 
 And that's great advice.
 
 There are situations, however, where that just isn't possible. A photo will 
 appear for a very brief time and if you don't snap ~now~ it will be lost 
 forever. The choice is sometimes between getting the (technically imperfect) 
 photo and getting nothing.
 
 At times like that it's important to be as prepared as possible by 
 understanding the prevailing conditions and being as ready as possible to 
 do almost anything in a very short period of time. If you snap and the photo 
 is still there be ready to then consider what adjustments might be 
 important in the time you have to re-adjust.
 
 I think that one of the things that is happening here is that we're getting 
 comments from photographers of different genres. Obviously a studio 
 photographer, a sports photographer, a nature guy and a PJ all have different 
 standards of technical requirement, different equipment available to them and 
 different time frames in which to work.
 
 Cheers,
 frank
 
 What can be asserted without proof can be dismissed without proof. --  
 Christopher Hitchens
 
 --- Original Message ---
 
 From: Godfrey DiGiorgi gdigio...@gmail.com
 Sent: May 30, 2012 5/30/12
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: Improving the technical quality of my photography
 
 On Wed, May 30, 2012 at 5:18 PM, knarftheria...@gmail.com
 knarftheria...@gmail.com wrote:
 Wow! That's a very complicated way of saying get the focus and exposure 
 right, keep the camera as still as possible.
 
 Mark!
 
 When I want the best technical quality in my photos, I use a tripod,
 focus critically (manually), and use a light meter to assess the
 correct exposure.
 
 More important than all of that, I slow way down and think carefully
 of what I'm trying to achieve first, form a plan to achieve it, then
 execute the plan carefully.
 
 -- Godfrey
 godfreydigiorgi.posterous.com
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OT: Golden Gate Bridge In Photos, 1937 To 2012

2012-05-31 Thread Daniel J. Matyola
http://www.buzzfeed.com/theangryluddite/the-golden-gate-bridge-in-photos-from-1937-to-201-5dn9

Dan Matyola
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola

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Cheap Used Q's

2012-05-31 Thread Steven Desjardins
Amazon has some used Q's in the low $300's (USD) from Amazon Warehouse.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B005BG0IWS/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8qid=1338471904sr=8-1condition=used

For these prices it's a really nice PS.

-- 
Steve Desjardins

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Re: OT on Lr 4 being unusably slow

2012-05-31 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
Charles,

How much RAM do you have? and which version of the OS?

LR4 is a 64bit implementation. It runs best on Lion, and runs best on
Snow Leopard when you have Snow Leopard set to boot up with the 64-bit
kernel (it's set to the 32bit kernel by default).

4G is enough RAM as long as most other stuff isn't running. I have
tested it on a MacBook Air running Lion, but not with an 80,000 image
catalog yet.

As reality check, I timed startup of LR4.1 on my MacBook Pro 13
system (1 year old, 2.4 Core Duo 2, 8G RAM, Lion, data on the external
firewire 800 drive, catalog on the internal). From double click to
ready to edit a new directory of raw files was 92 seconds.

The MBA did the same startup with a 5000 image catalog and external
drive in about 30 seconds. More important, it runs smoothly on both
systems after startup.

Your system is an older generation than my MacBook Pro 13, 2.5-3
minutes for startup is likely fine. Time to throw money at the
problem...

I'm planning to upgrade on the next round of MacBook Pro systems too.

G

On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 5:52 AM, Charles Robinson charl...@visi.com wrote:
 On May 30, 2012, at 21:14, Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:

 Once Lr completes this operation, you have a fresh catalog and a
 freshly generated set of previews which are all well-formed. This will
 net the best possible performance, presuming the rest of the system is
 up to snuff.


 Sadly, something else is out of whack, because the new catalog takes just as 
 long (2.5-3 minutes) to load as the original one.

 I've got about 100 gig free on a 7200rpm drive in my 3.5-year-old Macbook 
 with 4GB of RAM.

 Sometime this year, the next step is going to be throw hardware at the 
 problem but not yet, unfortunately.

  -Charles

 --
 Charles Robinson - charl...@visi.com
 Minneapolis, MN
 http://charles.robinsontwins.org
 http://www.facebook.com/charles.robinson




-- 
Godfrey
  godfreydigiorgi.posterous.com

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Re: Packed and ready

2012-05-31 Thread David J Brooks
On Wed, May 30, 2012 at 10:58 PM, John Sessoms jsessoms...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 From: David J Brooks


 Have a great trip. Don't forget when Mark does his climb, it rains.
 You have been warned.


 No biggie. When Mark does his climb at Oh Dark Thirty in the AM, I'll still
 be snug as a bug in the back of my station-wagon. I don't get paid to get up
 that early any more.

I'm talking about the thursday night one. You have been warned.:-) Oh
and you'll have to fend off the bears by yourself, or o could make a
video and you can play it at night, in a tent.LOL

Dave


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Documenting Life in Rural Ontario.
www.caughtinmotion.com
http://brooksinthecountry.blogspot.com/
York Region, Ontario, Canada

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PESO: Tour of Somerville

2012-05-31 Thread Daniel J. Matyola
http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=15807040

My home town of Somerville, NJ, is also the home of  the oldest major
bicycle race in the United States'. The Tour of Somerville Cycling
Series is a four-day event of competitive cycling for professionals
and amateurs over Memorial Day weekend. The final event, held on every
Memorial Day, is the 50 mile Kugler-Anderson Memorial Tour of
Somerville, known as the Kentucky Derby of Cycling.  This image is
from a preliminary event, as other obligations prevented me from
staying around for the big race.

http://www.tourofsomerville.org/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tour_of_Somerville

Comments will be appreciated.

Dan Matyola
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola

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Improving the technical quality of my photography

2012-05-31 Thread Bipin Gupta
Larry, I note that this is a desperate plea for help and support, and
that all PDMLers must respond with sympathy. I am often in the same
situation as yours, so you are not alone. Your Problem Statement:-
1) Sharpness, 2) Exposure, 3) Technical Quality, 4) Photo Equipment /
Upgrades / Changing Gear, 5) Poor Focus, 6) Camera Motion / Shake, 7)
Photo Situation.
Some honest Solution from a Not so No All:-
1) As some one said, a tripod or monopod, a table, wall or other
support. Control breathing at the time you press the shutter. Press
the shutter gently in two pushes, where the first one sets focus 
exposure, hold then the second push takes the photo. Give a chance for
shake reduction to activate.
2) Use multiple exposure with EV variation. Play with Spot and Matrix
metering. Recognize every Lens's variation for exposure, color and
contrast and set these on your camera body. Use PP software - dark and
bright area improvement.
3) Technical Quality is a very difficult approach. Request Expert
PDMLers for HELP.
4) No gear produced today are bad, except for Bad Photographers. Most
DSLR and Lenses are very good, including many PS cameras. Larry there
is no need to change gear. Just learn the idiosyncrasies of your
camera and lens, make notes and experiment with setting changes - vow
so many parameters in today's cameras. Perhaps you may consider one
good sharp Star lens like the Tamron 17-50 f2.8 - cheap and better
than Pentax's.
5) Most Auto Focus system are damn good. With failing eyesight I have
given up Manual Focusing. Just remember to check for Body + Lens combo
for Back / Front Focusing and make the appropriate setting to your
DSLR body. Also wait for the Shake Reduction to Kick-in before you
take the photo.
6) As said earlier breathing control, monopod / tripod, etc is your
best friend to prevent camera motion / shake. Larry read up the
plethora of help topics on this issue on the net. Just Google.
7) Photo Situations are too vast a topic to be covered here. Can some
PDMLers help Larry or point us to some great site on the internet?
Regards.
Bipin - from a far away enchanting land.

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OT - Windsor Castle

2012-05-31 Thread Cotty
For anyone who's been to Windsor Castle in England, you might find this
interesting re the fire there 20 years ago. I did the recent stuff the
other day in Windsor.

http://www.itv.com/news/meridian/2012-05-31/fire-at-windsor-castle/

--


Cheers,
  Cotty


___/\__
||   (O)  | People, Places, Pastiche
--  http://www.cottysnaps.com
_



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PESO - PAD - Window Washers - Print-a-Day-5

2012-05-31 Thread George Sinos
This is number 5 in the series Print a Day for 30 Days

http://georges.posterous.com/window-washers-print-a-day-5

The Woodman of the World building is the second tallest building in
Omaha. These guys are out there a lot. In this photo they're somewhere
near the 17th floor. Whenever I caught a sight of them through my
office window I was glad I had an inside job.

Printing this photo was very much about the paper stock. The color of
the paper influences the color of the highlights. As I've said before,
Lightroom's soft-proof can only get you close. If you have a specific
result in mind, you'll need to select your paper stock carefully and
make test prints.

gs

George Sinos

gsi...@gmail.com
www.georgesphotos.net
plus.georgesinos.com

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RE: What's this?

2012-05-31 Thread John Sessoms

From: William Robb


A good friend passed away recently, and we don't know what this is for sure.
I think it's a lamp of some sort.
Anyone know what it is, really?
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59183.jpg
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59185.jpg

Thanks


Perhaps a candle holder  match safe for a traveler?

http://www.trocadero.com/stores/machaveli/items/1006845/item1006845.html

http://www.trocadero.com/machaveli/items/1006845/en1.html

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Re: Improving the technical quality of my photography

2012-05-31 Thread George Sinos
A couple of guys have mentioned bracketing.

I can relate this experience.  A few years ago I took a class on
composition.  The instructor required every shot be a 3-shot bracketed
set, 1-stop apart.  She told us up front that this had nothing to do
with composition, but that the most sophisticated metering system is
never going to be perfect.  For the duration of the class I learned as
much about my camera's metering system and exposure as I learned about
composition.

Later, I watched A day with Jay Maisel on Kelby Training.  They made
a video of Scott Kelby and Jay Maisel walking around New York.  At one
point Kelby asks Maisel why he's hearing multiple shutter clicks every
time Maisel takes a photo.  Maisel responds that he always shoots
bracketed sets.  He said he never knows which one he'll like best.

He's been shooting for decades, living through several generations of
several technologies, and he doesn't worry about a lot of stuff we
seem to think is so critical.

So, I guess if bracketing is good enough for Jay Maisel, it's probably
good enough for me.  I know, I don't use it for sports and other fast
action stuff.  Outside of that it's been useful more often not.

gs

George Sinos

gsi...@gmail.com
www.georgesphotos.net
plus.georgesinos.com


On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 9:42 AM, Bipin Gupta bip...@gmail.com wrote:
 Larry, I note that this is a desperate plea for help and support, and
 that all PDMLers must respond with sympathy. I am often in the same
 situation as yours, so you are not alone. Your Problem Statement:-
 1) Sharpness, 2) Exposure, 3) Technical Quality, 4) Photo Equipment /
 Upgrades / Changing Gear, 5) Poor Focus, 6) Camera Motion / Shake, 7)
 Photo Situation.
 Some honest Solution from a Not so No All:-
 1) As some one said, a tripod or monopod, a table, wall or other
 support. Control breathing at the time you press the shutter. Press
 the shutter gently in two pushes, where the first one sets focus 
 exposure, hold then the second push takes the photo. Give a chance for
 shake reduction to activate.
 2) Use multiple exposure with EV variation. Play with Spot and Matrix
 metering. Recognize every Lens's variation for exposure, color and
 contrast and set these on your camera body. Use PP software - dark and
 bright area improvement.
 3) Technical Quality is a very difficult approach. Request Expert
 PDMLers for HELP.
 4) No gear produced today are bad, except for Bad Photographers. Most
 DSLR and Lenses are very good, including many PS cameras. Larry there
 is no need to change gear. Just learn the idiosyncrasies of your
 camera and lens, make notes and experiment with setting changes - vow
 so many parameters in today's cameras. Perhaps you may consider one
 good sharp Star lens like the Tamron 17-50 f2.8 - cheap and better
 than Pentax's.
 5) Most Auto Focus system are damn good. With failing eyesight I have
 given up Manual Focusing. Just remember to check for Body + Lens combo
 for Back / Front Focusing and make the appropriate setting to your
 DSLR body. Also wait for the Shake Reduction to Kick-in before you
 take the photo.
 6) As said earlier breathing control, monopod / tripod, etc is your
 best friend to prevent camera motion / shake. Larry read up the
 plethora of help topics on this issue on the net. Just Google.
 7) Photo Situations are too vast a topic to be covered here. Can some
 PDMLers help Larry or point us to some great site on the internet?
 Regards.
 Bipin - from a far away enchanting land.

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Re: Packed and ready

2012-05-31 Thread John Sessoms

From: David J Brooks


On Wed, May 30, 2012 at 10:58 PM, John Sessoms jsessoms...@nc.rr.com wrote:

From: David J Brooks



Have a great trip. Don't forget when Mark does his climb, it rains.
You have been warned.


No biggie. When Mark does his climb at Oh Dark Thirty in the AM, I'll still
be snug as a bug in the back of my station-wagon. I don't get paid to get up
that early any more.

I'm talking about the thursday night one. You have been warned.:-) Oh
and you'll have to fend off the bears by yourself, or o could make a
video and you can play it at night, in a tent.LOL

Dave


I'll still be in Raleigh Thursday night.

Bears haven't bothered me. My snoring's not in the legendary category, 
but it seems to suffice.


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Re: What's this?

2012-05-31 Thread mike wilson

On 31/05/2012 08:52, William Robb wrote:

A good friend passed away recently, and we don't know what this is for
sure.
I think it's a lamp of some sort.
Anyone know what it is, really?
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59183.jpg
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59185.jpg


I would guess that there should be a spring in the long tube, to hold 
the candle up.  It's for using when you need the light to stay still and 
not move, as it would as the candle burned down.  Similar constructions 
were used when candles were the source of light in the (very, very) 
early days of motoring, to ensure the flame stayed in the right place to 
allow a mirror to throw as much light down the road as possible.


I'm not sure, after all that, why it would be constructed to separate.
--
No fixed Adobe

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Re: Improving the technical quality of my photography

2012-05-31 Thread Walt Gilbert
I wish I had enough knowledge and experience to be of help on this, 
Larry. The only thing I can really offer is that, in my personal 
experience, I noticed that the biggest improvement in my photography 
happened when I started shooting almost exclusively with my manual primes.


It's pretty limiting, but I found the effect to be something akin to 
running with ankle weights. I began to slow down and pay much closer 
attention to focus, composition, etc. Yes, I missed out on certain shots 
as a consequence, but I also started finding shots out of sheer 
necessity that I normally wouldn't have noticed.


That said, I've been in an awful slump of late, myself. More than 
anything, I just need to get my ass out of the house and go shooting. 
But, when the heat index is around 110-120 degrees and there's not a 
cloud in the sky, you can find all kinds of excuses not to do it.


Hope you figure out what's ailing ya soon.

Best,

Walt

On 5/30/2012 3:54 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

It often seems that the bulk of my photography is in situations where I'm 
pretty much trying to make the best of a bad situation, and I'm not so much 
going for a sharp photo, but a photo that is as sharp as I can get at the 
moment.

Call me bourgeois, but the poor technical quality (sharpness, exposure etc.) of 
my photos has been bothering me lately.

What have you done, if anything, to improve the technical quality of your 
photography, and how much difference did it make?
I can't really afford equipment upgrades at the moment, but if changing gear 
made a huge difference, that's important to know.

In a related note, if people have noticed consistent technical flaws that I 
make, like camera motion, or poor focus, that would also be helpful, and they 
could send me recommendations wither on, or off, list.

One thing that I do intend to do is start taking some photos in situations 
where it's theoretically possible to get extremely sharp photos, so that, 
frankly, I don't have any excuses that I can blame on the gear.

--
Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est








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Re: Odd Behaviour with JAlbum

2012-05-31 Thread steve harley

on 2012-05-30 19:57 Brian Walters wrote

Not a big deal but I've been using JAlbum for years and never come across this
problem before. Anyone else seen something similar? Any ideas as to what part
of the Exif might be the problem?


i don't use JAlbum, but googling JAlbum hang exif has some ideas; i would 
probably just dump the metadata with EXIFTool to see if something stands out


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Re: Improving the technical quality of my photography

2012-05-31 Thread steve harley

on 2012-05-30 14:54 Larry Colen wrote

What have you done, if anything, to improve the technical quality of your 
photography, and how much difference did it make?


number one (you don't need to hear this) is to keep practicing, and create some 
sort of a feedback loop in your practice that drives improvement


one thing i haven't seen others mention is to study the rhythm of the moment to 
time your photos for the instant with the least motion; i shoot a lot of plants 
and even a light breeze will often sway or vibrate my subjects; with my camera 
even 400 ISO is a stretch (for plant shots at least), and a tripod can only 
stabilize one end of the lens-subject vector


so i practice timing my shots for the still moments at the end of each sway, 
and being patient for the moments when the plant forgets the wind; this same 
practice also helps me some with people



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Re: I had nothing better to do this morning...

2012-05-31 Thread P. J. Alling
I really didn't think I was making him into a mystery.  He has a big 
enough following, and was called RiceWhine by enough people that I was 
sure a google search would easily clear up any mystery and I wouldn't 
have to directly drive up his hit count.


Now lets get this straight.  I have a lot of crappy opinions, which I'm 
not afraid to share.  Often off the cuff with no thought behind them, 
though some of the crappier opinions in some people's estamation, 
actually have a lot of thought behind them, I don't however feel that my 
drivel deserves a website and I'd be embarrassed if I attracted a 
following that hung on my every word. Geez get a life people.


Once again, I wasn't trying to make the guy a mystery.  I thought that 
everyone here, having actually found this place on the internet, it 
being more virtual than most, would have run into RiceH*** self 
described measurebater, and self described Pentax fan, and known he has 
called RiceWhine quite a lot four or so years ago.  Unlike Kennyboy's 
nickname I can't claim to have made that one up.


On 5/31/2012 3:16 AM, Tim Øsleby wrote:

Why turn this guy into a mystery?
He is just another sociopat with internet connection. There is plenty
of them out there.

--
MaritimTim

My private photo blog: http://maritimtim.blogspot.com/
My photo class blog: http://z-fotokurs.blogspot.com/


To err is human
to arr is pirate



2012/5/30 P. J. Allingwebstertwenty...@gmail.com:

So I visited a few despised sites...

No link because I don't want to give him traffic, but RiceWhine makes
Kennyboy look like a super genius, or in other words, RiceWhine is an idiot.
  I can't believe he's got a following.  I really can't.

--
Don't lose heart!  They might want to cut it out, and they'll want to avoid
a lengthily search.


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Don't lose heart!  They might want to cut it out, and they'll want to avoid a 
lengthily search.


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Re: Cheap Used Q's

2012-05-31 Thread P. J. Alling
Yea, but it's only about $570 new with the Zoom lens, so not a great a 
deal is it looks.


On 5/31/2012 9:46 AM, Steven Desjardins wrote:

Amazon has some used Q's in the low $300's (USD) from Amazon Warehouse.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B005BG0IWS/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8qid=1338471904sr=8-1condition=used

For these prices it's a really nice PS.




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lengthily search.


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Re: What's this?

2012-05-31 Thread P. J. Alling
I've seen a lot of old tech, and I can't even make a reasonable guess.  
It does remind me of a candle stick holder and candle mold I, but the 
mold should be tapered with a hole in the bottom for the wick.


On 5/31/2012 2:52 AM, William Robb wrote:
A good friend passed away recently, and we don't know what this is for 
sure.

I think it's a lamp of some sort.
Anyone know what it is, really?
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59183.jpg
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59185.jpg

Thanks




--
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lengthily search.


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Re: Packed and ready

2012-05-31 Thread Mark Roberts
Status report:

I drove from Boston down to Raliegh, NC yesterday. 15 hours with two
short rest stops. Stayed with friends overnight and drove to GFM this
morning. Nice to travel without rushing today and I arrived just after
noon and met all my friends on the mountain. Weather is beautiful here
at the moment but there's a good chance of thunderstorms tomorrow,
which could make registration for the NPW tricky tomorrow (it's
usually done outdoors under a big tent).

Noe one else has arrived yet. Don Nelson should be arriving with his
son Scott this afternoon. I've had nothing but radio slience from Doug
Brewer lately so I'm not sure if he's coming today or tomorrow.

Now I think I'll take a drive up the mountain and maybe test the video
capabilities of the K5 on the way so I can show everyone who's never
been here what it's like.

More later.


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Re: What's this?

2012-05-31 Thread John Sessoms

From: mike wilson


On 31/05/2012 08:52, William Robb wrote:

A good friend passed away recently, and we don't know what this is for
sure.
I think it's a lamp of some sort.
Anyone know what it is, really?
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59183.jpg
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59185.jpg


I would guess that there should be a spring in the long tube, to hold
the candle up.  It's for using when you need the light to stay still and
not move, as it would as the candle burned down.  Similar constructions
were used when candles were the source of light in the (very, very)
early days of motoring, to ensure the flame stayed in the right place to
allow a mirror to throw as much light down the road as possible.

I'm not sure, after all that, why it would be constructed to separate.


SWAG: The shape of the handles suggests an artistic/decorative component 
in the design. But there's also a bit of utilitarian form follows 
function.


The long tube is for storing matches, the base is a candle holder. While 
traveling, the match tube nests in the candle holder base. The match 
tube comes out of the base when you want to put the candle in.


The first image shows the set prepared to go into someone's carry on 
bag, and the second image shows the set separated so it can be used.


Anyway, that's my guess.

Is there any kind of maker's mark on the bottom of the tube or the 
bottom of the candle holder?


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Re: Improving the technical quality of my photography

2012-05-31 Thread John Sessoms
How do you get to Carnegie Hall? Improving your photography works the 
same way.


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Re: PESO - PAD - Window Washers - Print-a-Day-5

2012-05-31 Thread Daniel J. Matyola
Nice image,  I like the strong linear patterns and the way they are
broken up by the main object of attention.

I don't know if you ar getting what you want out of printing an image
every day, but I am enjoying your daily posts.
Dan Matyola
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola


On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 10:58 AM, George Sinos gsi...@gmail.com wrote:
 This is number 5 in the series Print a Day for 30 Days

 http://georges.posterous.com/window-washers-print-a-day-5

 The Woodman of the World building is the second tallest building in
 Omaha. These guys are out there a lot. In this photo they're somewhere
 near the 17th floor. Whenever I caught a sight of them through my
 office window I was glad I had an inside job.

 Printing this photo was very much about the paper stock. The color of
 the paper influences the color of the highlights. As I've said before,
 Lightroom's soft-proof can only get you close. If you have a specific
 result in mind, you'll need to select your paper stock carefully and
 make test prints.

 gs

 George Sinos
 
 gsi...@gmail.com
 www.georgesphotos.net
 plus.georgesinos.com

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Re: Improving the technical quality of my photography

2012-05-31 Thread Daniel J. Matyola
Shooting multiple images can also reduce camera movement blur, at
least the kind resulting from pressing the shutter, as that will
affect the first image only.
Dan Matyola
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola


Onblh for me.  I know, I don't use it for sports and other fast
 action stuff.  Outside of that it's been useful more often not.

 gs

 George Sinos
 
 gsi...@gmail.com
 www.georgesphotos.net
 plus.georgesinos.com


 On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 9:42 AM, Bipin Gupta bip...@gmail.com wrote:
 Larry, I note that this is a desperate plea for help and support, and
 that all PDMLers must respond with sympathy. I am often in the same
 situation as yours, so you are not alone. Your Problem Statement:-
 1) Sharpness, 2) Exposure, 3) Technical Quality, 4) Photo Equipment /
 Upgrades / Changing Gear, 5) Poor Focus, 6) Camera Motion / Shake, 7)
 Photo Situation.
 Some honest Solution from a Not so No All:-
 1) As some one said, a tripod or monopod, a table, wall or other
 support. Control breathing at the time you press the shutter. Press
 the shutter gently in two pushes, where the first one sets focus 
 exposure, hold then the second push takes the photo. Give a chance for
 shake reduction to activate.
 2) Use multiple exposure with EV variation. Play with Spot and Matrix
 metering. Recognize every Lens's variation for exposure, color and
 contrast and set these on your camera body. Use PP software - dark and
 bright area improvement.
 3) Technical Quality is a very difficult approach. Request Expert
 PDMLers for HELP.
 4) No gear produced today are bad, except for Bad Photographers. Most
 DSLR and Lenses are very good, including many PS cameras. Larry there
 is no need to change gear. Just learn the idiosyncrasies of your
 camera and lens, make notes and experiment with setting changes - vow
 so many parameters in today's cameras. Perhaps you may consider one
 good sharp Star lens like the Tamron 17-50 f2.8 - cheap and better
 than Pentax's.
 5) Most Auto Focus system are damn good. With failing eyesight I have
 given up Manual Focusing. Just remember to check for Body + Lens combo
 for Back / Front Focusing and make the appropriate setting to your
 DSLR body. Also wait for the Shake Reduction to Kick-in before you
 take the photo.
 6) As said earlier breathing control, monopod / tripod, etc is your
 best friend to prevent camera motion / shake. Larry read up the
 plethora of help topics on this issue on the net. Just Google.
 7) Photo Situations are too vast a topic to be covered here. Can some
 PDMLers help Larry or point us to some great site on the internet?
 Regards.
 Bipin - from a far away enchanting land.

 --
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Re: Improving the technical quality of my photography

2012-05-31 Thread P. J. Alling
I've been thinking about this for a while, and the most important thing 
is self editing.  If you want to show your technical prowess, and an 
image isn't technically excellent don't show it.  Like my recent PESO


http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1604247/PESO/PESO%20--%20notmistymourning.html

I didn't have a tripod with me, I did know exactly how I wanted the 
image to look, I took 25 or thirty exposures and minutely examined each 
one for camera movement and DOF.  The exposures that didn't make the cut 
no one will ever see.  You can't do that with action photos, one 
exposure is all you're likely to get.  If you practice enough you'll get 
your hit rate, but it if the image isn't up to your standards, don't 
show it, no matter how good the content is.


As a corollary, don't count on autofocus, it will always focus on the 
wrong thing, always, that is unless you have all the time in the world, 
they it will get it right.


On 5/30/2012 4:54 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

It often seems that the bulk of my photography is in situations where I'm 
pretty much trying to make the best of a bad situation, and I'm not so much 
going for a sharp photo, but a photo that is as sharp as I can get at the 
moment.

Call me bourgeois, but the poor technical quality (sharpness, exposure etc.) of 
my photos has been bothering me lately.

What have you done, if anything, to improve the technical quality of your 
photography, and how much difference did it make?
I can't really afford equipment upgrades at the moment, but if changing gear 
made a huge difference, that's important to know.

In a related note, if people have noticed consistent technical flaws that I 
make, like camera motion, or poor focus, that would also be helpful, and they 
could send me recommendations wither on, or off, list.

One thing that I do intend to do is start taking some photos in situations 
where it's theoretically possible to get extremely sharp photos, so that, 
frankly, I don't have any excuses that I can blame on the gear.

--
Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est








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Re: What's this?

2012-05-31 Thread P. J. Alling
Now that John mentioned it, it clicks, it's a miners candle holder, the 
brass tube is for matches.  I remember reading a description but never 
saw a picture.


On 5/31/2012 12:42 PM, John Sessoms wrote:

From: mike wilson


On 31/05/2012 08:52, William Robb wrote:

A good friend passed away recently, and we don't know what this is for
sure.
I think it's a lamp of some sort.
Anyone know what it is, really?
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59183.jpg
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrphoto/pictures/WRK59185.jpg


I would guess that there should be a spring in the long tube, to hold
the candle up.  It's for using when you need the light to stay still and
not move, as it would as the candle burned down.  Similar constructions
were used when candles were the source of light in the (very, very)
early days of motoring, to ensure the flame stayed in the right place to
allow a mirror to throw as much light down the road as possible.

I'm not sure, after all that, why it would be constructed to separate.


SWAG: The shape of the handles suggests an artistic/decorative 
component in the design. But there's also a bit of utilitarian form 
follows function.


The long tube is for storing matches, the base is a candle holder. 
While traveling, the match tube nests in the candle holder base. The 
match tube comes out of the base when you want to put the candle in.


The first image shows the set prepared to go into someone's carry on 
bag, and the second image shows the set separated so it can be used.


Anyway, that's my guess.

Is there any kind of maker's mark on the bottom of the tube or the 
bottom of the candle holder?





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Re: Improving the technical quality of my photography

2012-05-31 Thread steve harley

on 2012-05-31 9:17 George Sinos wrote

A couple of guys have mentioned bracketing.


this prompts another comment — i don't auto-bracket, but i do, in effect, 
focus-bracket … first of all i almost always manual focus; i stretch the limits 
of my eyes and my viewfinder sometimes, and i have learned to distrust the 
focus highlight; so i shoot, then defocus and focus again and take another 
shot, sometimes three or more when i'm not sure i'm catching the focus and my 
aperture is wide; i'll also sometimes take a few shots with slightly different 
focus to study and test my sense for focus choice, and possibly to focus stack 
(i have been experimenting with the automation in Photoshop 6, and it works 
surprisingly well on hand-held plant shots, sometimes needing some manual 
intervention on the masking)


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Re: Tokina AT-X 828 AF PRO 80-200mm f/2.8 question

2012-05-31 Thread Darren Addy
Yes, there is no problem with this lens reporting the proper focal
length in EXIF.
My shake reduction question was the result of an unfortunate leap in logic.

I think I'm going to like this lens.

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OT: So, about that NHRA race . . .

2012-05-31 Thread Walt Gilbert

Well, I find myself on the horns of a dilemma.

Seems the trip to Montana I'd planned to take in late June/early July 
has been pushed back. Now, it's scheduled for September 28 -- the exact 
same date as the NHRA event. We'd be making a brief stop in the Black 
Hills of South Dakota before heading on to Billings.


Two opportunities I may never get again, both getting underway on the 
exact same day.


What to do? /What to do???/

-- Walt

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Left out again in third party lenses

2012-05-31 Thread P. J. Alling
Holga now offers pinhole lenses for DSLRs, only Canon and Nikon mount, 
however.  I'm not sure how to feel about being dissed by Holga.


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Re: Cheap Used Q's

2012-05-31 Thread Steven Desjardins
C'mon, prime lens compacts are all the rage.  Be one of the cool kids.;-)

On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 12:27 PM, P. J. Alling
webstertwenty...@gmail.com wrote:
 Yea, but it's only about $570 new with the Zoom lens, so not a great a deal
 is it looks.


 On 5/31/2012 9:46 AM, Steven Desjardins wrote:

 Amazon has some used Q's in the low $300's (USD) from Amazon Warehouse.


 http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B005BG0IWS/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8qid=1338471904sr=8-1condition=used

 For these prices it's a really nice PS.



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Manhattanhenge

2012-05-31 Thread Igor Roshchin

I thought this might be of interest to some PDMLers.
I apologize in advance if somebody had posted this already (I was not
reading the list for the last few days):

http://lightyears.blogs.cnn.com/2012/05/31/manhattanhenge-attracts-new-york-spectators/?hpt=hp_bn1

Igor


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How can I improve my images?

2012-05-31 Thread Collin Brendemuehl
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55001392@N08/7309613542/in/photostream

Do I need better lenses?
Will a Nikon solve my problems?

Sincerely, 

Collin Brendemuehl 
He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose 
-- Jim Elliott 






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Re: How can I improve my images?

2012-05-31 Thread P. J. Alling

A Nikon can only do so much.

On 5/31/2012 2:30 PM, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/55001392@N08/7309613542/in/photostream

Do I need better lenses?
Will a Nikon solve my problems?

Sincerely,

Collin Brendemuehl
He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
-- Jim Elliott









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PESO: Bug on a milkweed flower

2012-05-31 Thread Collin Brendemuehl
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55001392@N08/7309647348/in/photostream/lightbox/

Sincerely, 

Collin Brendemuehl 
He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose 
-- Jim Elliott 






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Re: OT - Windsor Castle

2012-05-31 Thread Christine Aguila
Nice work, Cotty.  Cheers, Christine 



On May 31, 2012, at 9:48 AM, Cotty cotty...@mac.com wrote:

 For anyone who's been to Windsor Castle in England, you might find this
 interesting re the fire there 20 years ago. I did the recent stuff the
 other day in Windsor.
 
 http://www.itv.com/news/meridian/2012-05-31/fire-at-windsor-castle/
 
 --
 
 
 Cheers,
  Cotty
 
 
 ___/\__
 ||   (O)  | People, Places, Pastiche
 --  http://www.cottysnaps.com
 _
 
 
 
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Re: Left out again in third party lenses

2012-05-31 Thread Mat Maessen
On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 1:33 PM, P. J. Alling
webstertwenty...@gmail.com wrote:
 Holga now offers pinhole lenses for DSLRs, only Canon and Nikon mount,
 however.  I'm not sure how to feel about being dissed by Holga.

I made my own a few years back with a Pentax body cover, drill, soda
can, black paint, and a pin. I wonder what I did with it...

-Mat

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Snapseed is free today...

2012-05-31 Thread Darren Addy
Didn't realize that this app was from Nik (I'm a huge fan of Nik Software).
Voted Best Mobile Photo App 2012 by TIPA ( http://www.tipa.com )
Video: http://www.snapseed.com/
Review: http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/snapseed

iTunes page: 
http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/snapseed-for-ipad/id439438619?mt=8ls=1

If you are an iPad or iPhone user, get it today! (Android coming soon).
Desktop versions also available for Mac and Win (not free).

This app just made me buy an iPad Camera Connection Kit.
: )
PS... Just $17.90 from this 100% feedback eCrater seller:
http://www.ecrater.com/p/14851205/apple-ipad-camera-connection-kit

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PESO: Street Dancers

2012-05-31 Thread Daniel J. Matyola
There's more than one way to get to dance on Broadway:

http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/manage/gallery/

Comments are appreciated.

Dan Matyola
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola

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PESO: Street Dancers -- CORRECTED LINK

2012-05-31 Thread Daniel J. Matyola
There's more than one way to get to dance on Broadway:

http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=15813350

Comments are appreciated.

Dan Matyola
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola

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Re: PESO: Bug on a milkweed flower

2012-05-31 Thread Daniel J. Matyola
That is an interesting critter, attractively portrayed.
Dan Matyola
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola


On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 2:36 PM, Collin Brendemuehl
coll...@brendemuehl.net wrote:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/55001392@N08/7309647348/in/photostream/lightbox/

 Sincerely,

 Collin Brendemuehl
 He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
 -- Jim Elliott






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Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread Larry Colen
I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash gear.  As 
an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd get my lighting dialed 
in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a grey card.  
As far as I can tell, the way it works is to fire the strobe.  the f/stop that 
it reads on the meter is the correct aperture for ASA 50 film.  Point the arrow 
on the dial at that aperture, then look at what aperture lines up with the ISO, 
and that's the supposed correct exposure.

I will say that it never completely blew the exposure, but it was pretty 
consistently different from the exposure that I ended up using, about a stop or 
so under.  In other words plenty of safe headroom for something really bright 
in the picture, but not maximizing the SNR on low key digital photos.  Shooting 
at ISO 80 on the K-5, I think that I could feel confident that if I used the 
flash meter, and didn't check the histogram, I would almost never blow a shot.

I am coming to the conclusion that it is a valuable tool to know how to use, 
that there are situations that it can prove invaluable, but likewise, the 
histogram is also a valuable tool, and I'd be foolish to rely on the flash 
meter and ignore the histogram, if the histogram were available.

For those that would like to check for themselves, fluidr shows the exif data, 
so you can see the flash meter reading, and my actual exposure data.
http://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987116526/

--
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RE: PESO: Street Dancers

2012-05-31 Thread John Sessoms

From: Daniel J. Matyola


There's more than one way to get to dance on Broadway:

http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/manage/gallery/

Comments are appreciated.


URL takes me to the Pentax Gallery Artist Login screen.

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Re: PESO - PAD - Window Washers - Print-a-Day-5

2012-05-31 Thread George Sinos
Thanks Dan.

When I decided to do the project I also decided to post the results to
give me a little motivation to keep going for 30 days.  It wouldn't
want to post day x of 30 and stop half way through.

I did give myself a little padding by printing every day, but only
posting on weekdays.  My prints are about 7 days ahead of the posts
and the gap will increase on the weekends.

gs

George Sinos

gsi...@gmail.com
www.georgesphotos.net
plus.georgesinos.com


On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 11:44 AM, Daniel J. Matyola
danmaty...@gmail.com wrote:
 Nice image,  I like the strong linear patterns and the way they are
 broken up by the main object of attention.

 I don't know if you ar getting what you want out of printing an image
 every day, but I am enjoying your daily posts.
 Dan Matyola
 http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola


 On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 10:58 AM, George Sinos gsi...@gmail.com wrote:
 This is number 5 in the series Print a Day for 30 Days

 http://georges.posterous.com/window-washers-print-a-day-5

 The Woodman of the World building is the second tallest building in
 Omaha. These guys are out there a lot. In this photo they're somewhere
 near the 17th floor. Whenever I caught a sight of them through my
 office window I was glad I had an inside job.

 Printing this photo was very much about the paper stock. The color of
 the paper influences the color of the highlights. As I've said before,
 Lightroom's soft-proof can only get you close. If you have a specific
 result in mind, you'll need to select your paper stock carefully and
 make test prints.

 gs

 George Sinos
 
 gsi...@gmail.com
 www.georgesphotos.net
 plus.georgesinos.com

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GESO art nudes, nsfw

2012-05-31 Thread Larry Colen
In the spirit of Jeff Foxworthy,

If your girlfriend comes home to find a naked woman on your couch, and she 
doesn't bat an eye, you might be a photographer.

As I mentioned, I've been jonesing to do some photography on a higher level 
than I've had the opportunity for lately. A friend came over last night to 
visit, and I convinced her to let me do some art nudes of her.  I set up the 
photos up keeping in mind the discussions on the improving my technical 
quality thread.  I meant to use both the strobes and the tripod but I found 
that with a fidgety model trying to use a tripod would be too impractical.  I 
suppose I should have used my monopod, but I don't think I'm seeing too much 
camera blur.

It was a fun set because I'd describe my friend as more classically pretty than 
conventionally pretty.  She's six foot tall, about 190 pounds and has cerebral 
palsy.  In other words, she's not as slim as modern American tastes dictate, 
but well within the preferences of figure artists.  I do need to learn a lot 
more about lighting, but still managed to get some acceptable photos.  I am 
feeling the need for a larger softbox to get softer lighting, without blasting 
photons all over background that I may not want lit.

Most of these were shot with a grid on my white lightning off stage right, with 
some sort of fill, from stage left.  My fill light was one of those $25 strobes 
that you can screw into a light socket.  Many of them with a softbox on it.  I 
was going to use the strobe that the softbox actually fits, but the bulb for it 
got broken since I last used it.

My friend wanted any pictures posted to flickr to be under restricted access 
so that only people willing to see adult content can see them. So I'm sorry 
if anyone wants to see them and doesn't have a flickr account.  

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987056554/

I posted them at full resolution, because I'm actively seeking feedback, 
primarily on technical issues right now, and you can't pixel peep low-rezzed 
photos.  

Since feedback on a whole set is a lot of work so well, I'm picking this one, 
as my favorite, to specifically ask for critique on, but feel free to give me 
suggestions on any of them:

standard:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/7309874796/

full resolution:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/7309874796/sizes/o

K-5 DA*16-50 at 34mm ISO 80 1/160 f/8

They were all shot with the 16-50. I thought about using primes, but the 16-50 
is sharp enough at f/8-16 and a lot more versatile.

--
Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est





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Re: Left out again in third party lenses

2012-05-31 Thread Matthew Hunt
On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 1:33 PM, P. J. Alling
webstertwenty...@gmail.com wrote:

 Holga now offers pinhole lenses for DSLRs, only Canon and Nikon mount,
 however.  I'm not sure how to feel about being dissed by Holga.

The Holga pinhole and regular crappy Holga lens are available for Pentax:

http://www.holgacamera.com/holga-lens-for-pentax/

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Re: Improving the technical quality of my photography

2012-05-31 Thread Bruce Walker
On Wed, May 30, 2012 at 8:31 PM, Larry Colen l...@red4est.com wrote:

 Thanks everyone.

 Interestingly the responses seem to come in various categories of things
 that I already know intellectually.

 1)  Noise is better than blur.  It's better to push the ISO and get the
 shutter speed and aperture you need.

TANSTAAFL.

If you set a high ISO, you also lose resolution. Which is just another
source of blur. Not so bad with the K-5, I know.


 2)  Stabilize the camera.

 Rather than having a default, I expect that the correct solution is to
 know when which platform is the best.  What guidelines do you use?

If I'm shooting macros, say of flowers, I use a tripod, weight the
tripod, and use mirror lockup to get the utmost stability. All the
rest of the time I just hand-hold. :-)

I tried using a tripod or monopod in studio shooting. I found it's
just too much of a drag on creativity for me. I climb ladders and
shoot down; I crawl on my stomach and shoot up; basically I move
around too much.

If I was doing a Karsh-style portrait, then I would use a tripod. But
I'd also probably be using a medium format camera too.


 What about using strobes?  Either studio or speedlight?  Are they fast
 enough that a tripod doesn't give much/any advantage?

Kinda. If you use a single strobe, at least two stops below its max
output (eg 1/4 power or lower), it will yield ultra quick flashes like
1/4000th or 1/2000th. Then you'll *really* stop motion.

But if you are using multiple lights, especially with radio triggers,
or running them near full output, you'll get a longer ill-defined
smear of light and that quick strobe-light effect is lost.


  - keep your glass clean

 How to clean it?  Lens pen?

Never tried one. So far, I've just used a micro fiber cloth.


  - avoid using filters (like UV); *especially* cheap ones

 I have been avoiding them, though there now seems to be a slight scratch
 at the edge of the front element of my 16-50.

I forgot to mention: avoid using scratched glass. ;-)


  - set aperture in sweet range for lens (eg not wide open)

 Two stops?  Set program for MTF priority and see what it says?  Research
 it for each lens and note it's sweet spot?

The latter. Rule of thumb seems to be two stops from either end of the
total range should be okay.


  - use mirror lockup when you can
  - use timed shutter or remote release when you can
  - use input and output sharpening passes in post-processing

 I'm not familiar with these details.

Mirror lockup avoids vibrating the camera body due to mirror slap when
it actuates. After you have composed and focussed, activate mirror
lockup and it will lift into exposure position. Wait a moment for the
vibrations to cease, then actuate the shutter, preferably with a
remote so your finger doesn't vibrate the camera. The Pentax $30 IR
remote is perfect for this.

Timed shutter release is an alternate way of doing the above,
especially useful when you've lost or forgotten the $30 remote. :-)


On sharpening. If you are shooting RAW and not doing sharpening you
are leaving sharpness on the table. The ACR / Lr defaults for
sharpening are very weak and not useful for most shots.

Three points at which you generally apply some sharpening:

input/capture: in ACR or Lr Develop, before you start doing other
work on the image.

creative: selective sharpening applied to specific objects, areas,
layers, etc. to enhance the contrast per your creative intent. Usually
in Ps or using the Adjustment brush in Lr. Try just sharpening eyes in
portraits -- big difference usually.

output: this is sharpening that you apply to get the best out of the
displayed image. Sharpening for printing is much different from
sharpening for screen display, for example. Lightroom knows how best
to do this, so I just leave it up to Lr. You'll find these controls in
the Print module and the Export menus.

There are some great little Adobe videos  articles by Jeff Schewe on
this stuff.
http://www.peachpit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=1721157

Also a good book if you really want the details:
http://www.amazon.com/Sharpening-Photoshop-Camera-Lightroom-Edition/dp/0321637550


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Re: PESO: Street Dancers

2012-05-31 Thread Daniel J. Matyola
Sorry.  Here is the correct link:

http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=15813350
Dan Matyola
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola


On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 3:43 PM, John Sessoms jsessoms...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 From: Daniel J. Matyola


 There's more than one way to get to dance on Broadway:

 http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/manage/gallery/

 Comments are appreciated.


 URL takes me to the Pentax Gallery Artist Login screen.

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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread P. J. Alling

On 5/31/2012 3:31 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash gear.  As 
an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd get my lighting dialed 
in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a grey card.
As far as I can tell, the way it works is to fire the strobe.  the f/stop that 
it reads on the meter is the correct aperture for ASA 50 film.  Point the arrow 
on the dial at that aperture, then look at what aperture lines up with the ISO, 
and that's the supposed correct exposure.

I will say that it never completely blew the exposure, but it was pretty 
consistently different from the exposure that I ended up using, about a stop or 
so under.  In other words plenty of safe headroom for something really bright 
in the picture, but not maximizing the SNR on low key digital photos.  Shooting 
at ISO 80 on the K-5, I think that I could feel confident that if I used the 
flash meter, and didn't check the histogram, I would almost never blow a shot.

I am coming to the conclusion that it is a valuable tool to know how to use, 
that there are situations that it can prove invaluable, but likewise, the 
histogram is also a valuable tool, and I'd be foolish to rely on the flash 
meter and ignore the histogram, if the histogram were available.

For those that would like to check for themselves, fluidr shows the exif data, 
so you can see the flash meter reading, and my actual exposure data.
http://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987116526/


Those are about the geekiest nudes I've ever seen...



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Re: Left out again in third party lenses

2012-05-31 Thread P. J. Alling

On 5/31/2012 4:06 PM, Matthew Hunt wrote:

On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 1:33 PM, P. J. Alling
webstertwenty...@gmail.com  wrote:


Holga now offers pinhole lenses for DSLRs, only Canon and Nikon mount,
however.  I'm not sure how to feel about being dissed by Holga.

The Holga pinhole and regular crappy Holga lens are available for Pentax:

http://www.holgacamera.com/holga-lens-for-pentax/


Not available from BH and I do feel bad about being dissed by them.

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Re: GESO art nudes, nsfw

2012-05-31 Thread Bruce Walker
First off, good for you for getting right into experimental mode and
doing some real-world work. I'd say the results are quite encouraging
and if you can persuade your friend to sit for you again, do it.

Here I will veer into personal preferences, so take with the usual grain-of.

My technical issues in the shot you submitted for critique:

- redness of face and neck and general skin blotchiness detract from
this being an idealized figure study. Pretty easy fix: go BW. You'll
see in your bw's that they look much better for overall evenness of
skin tones.

- hot spots. Your light source isn't soft enough yet. BW will help
here too. Investigate strip-light softboxes. You can craft DIY ones.

- too much detail. In a figure study like this I don't want to see
pores, uncomplimentary lines, etc. I suggest some retouching -- not a
lot! -- just enough to idealize your subject. Eg: try using the
Distort - Diffuse Glow filter. Put it on a layer so you can mask its
effect on eyes and lips. My go-to filter is Imagenomic Portraiture,
but it's pricey. You could try out Portrait Professional. Disable its
myriad default actions (like facial feature reshaping) and just enable
skin softening features.

- pose: needs work. :-) It's fine, even pretty good, and you filled
the frame nicely, but that angle on her face isn't to my taste. Avoid
arranging her body so you are shooting square-on. You should try to
angle her trunk more to avoid putting on extra weight. Try also to use
the longest tele focal lengths you can manage in the space. Get up on
a ladder to help that.
Study art books. Look up Edward Weston's nudes.

But again, good stuff, Larry!


On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 4:05 PM, Larry Colen l...@red4est.com wrote:
 In the spirit of Jeff Foxworthy,

 If your girlfriend comes home to find a naked woman on your couch, and she 
 doesn't bat an eye, you might be a photographer.

 As I mentioned, I've been jonesing to do some photography on a higher level 
 than I've had the opportunity for lately. A friend came over last night to 
 visit, and I convinced her to let me do some art nudes of her.  I set up the 
 photos up keeping in mind the discussions on the improving my technical 
 quality thread.  I meant to use both the strobes and the tripod but I found 
 that with a fidgety model trying to use a tripod would be too impractical.  I 
 suppose I should have used my monopod, but I don't think I'm seeing too much 
 camera blur.

 It was a fun set because I'd describe my friend as more classically pretty 
 than conventionally pretty.  She's six foot tall, about 190 pounds and has 
 cerebral palsy.  In other words, she's not as slim as modern American tastes 
 dictate, but well within the preferences of figure artists.  I do need to 
 learn a lot more about lighting, but still managed to get some acceptable 
 photos.  I am feeling the need for a larger softbox to get softer lighting, 
 without blasting photons all over background that I may not want lit.

 Most of these were shot with a grid on my white lightning off stage right, 
 with some sort of fill, from stage left.  My fill light was one of those $25 
 strobes that you can screw into a light socket.  Many of them with a softbox 
 on it.  I was going to use the strobe that the softbox actually fits, but the 
 bulb for it got broken since I last used it.

 My friend wanted any pictures posted to flickr to be under restricted 
 access so that only people willing to see adult content can see them. So 
 I'm sorry if anyone wants to see them and doesn't have a flickr account.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987056554/

 I posted them at full resolution, because I'm actively seeking feedback, 
 primarily on technical issues right now, and you can't pixel peep low-rezzed 
 photos.

 Since feedback on a whole set is a lot of work so well, I'm picking this one, 
 as my favorite, to specifically ask for critique on, but feel free to give me 
 suggestions on any of them:

 standard:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/7309874796/

 full resolution:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/7309874796/sizes/o

 K-5 DA*16-50 at 34mm ISO 80 1/160 f/8

 They were all shot with the 16-50. I thought about using primes, but the 
 16-50 is sharp enough at f/8-16 and a lot more versatile.

 --
 Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est





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Re: Rock Climber

2012-05-31 Thread kwaller
I was back in Bayonne last October, and I couldn't believe haow small and 
crowded everything seemed - this after living in Michigan for many years. 
Couldn't believe I raced around the tight city blocks in my Bugeye Sprite 
without loosing it!


Kenneth Waller
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/kennethwaller

- Original Message - 
From: Daniel J. Matyola danmaty...@gmail.com

Subject: Re: Rock Climber



Years ago, I visited home on those tiny little lots in Essex and in
Hudson.  Before suburban sprawl, those neighborhoods were the land of
opportunity for working class families .
Dan Matyola
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola


On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 12:12 AM, Dmitry Gromov grom...@gmail.com wrote:

hi

On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 12:11 AM, kwal...@peoplepc.com wrote:

Sounds like you lived in Essex or Hudson county.



Actually it was in Hudson County, in the city of Bayonne - often 
referred to

by Jackie Gleason  the home of Chuck Wepner.



Right, there is much more space in Essex county compared to Hudson! :)

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//*



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re:How can I improve my images?

2012-05-31 Thread Don Guthrie
The kind of real problems this group has would challenge a trained 
psychiatric professional. And calling him Dr. Nikon would not help any. 
Your post is just proof of concept.





Message: 7
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 18:30:23 +
From: Collin Brendemuehl coll...@brendemuehl.net
To: pdml pdml@pdml.net
Subject: How can I improve my images?
Message-ID: W8897410321231041338489023@webmail43
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

http://www.flickr.com/photos/55001392@N08/7309613542/in/photostream

Do I need better lenses?
Will a Nikon solve my problems?

Sincerely,

Collin Brendemuehl
He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
-- Jim Elliott




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Re: Left out again in third party lenses

2012-05-31 Thread John Mullan

They apparently thought Nikon and Canon needed some improvement.

jm

-Original Message- 
From: P. J. Alling

Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 1:33 PM
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
Subject: Left out again in third party lenses

Holga now offers pinhole lenses for DSLRs, only Canon and Nikon mount,
however.  I'm not sure how to feel about being dissed by Holga.

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a lengthily search.



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Re: Odd Behaviour with JAlbum

2012-05-31 Thread Brian Walters

Quoting Dmitry Gromov grom...@gmail.com:


Are there any internatinal characters involved?



Could be.  I'll check.



Also - see if your JRE (Java Runtime) need to be updated to later version...



I'm pretty sure I'm up to date with Java but, again, I'll check.

Thanks for the feedback.


Cheers

Brian

++
Brian Walters
Western Sydney Australia
http://lyons-ryan.org/southernlight/




D.

On Wed, May 30, 2012 at 9:57 PM, Brian Walters  
apathy...@lyons-ryan.org wrote:

G'day all

I'm starting to compile the June PUG and I'm finding that JAlbum is locking
up when I try to add a certain image - no names - you know who you are
Bulent :-)

I can only assume that something in the Exif data for the image is causing
JAlbum to choke - loading the image into Photoshop and using 'Save for Web'
strips out the EXIF and JAlbum finds the resulting image acceptable.

Not a big deal but I've been using JAlbum for years and never come across
this problem before. nbsp;Anyone else seen something similar?  
nbsp;Any ideas as to

what part of the Exif might be the problem?




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Re: Rock Climber

2012-05-31 Thread Daniel J. Matyola
Yes, the lots there are quite small, even by Jersey standards.  In my
area, most homes have an acre of land.
Dan Matyola
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola


On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 5:08 PM,  kwal...@peoplepc.com wrote:
 I was back in Bayonne last October, and I couldn't believe haow small and
 crowded everything seemed - this after living in Michigan for many years.
 Couldn't believe I raced around the tight city blocks in my Bugeye Sprite
 without loosing it!

 Kenneth Waller
 http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/kennethwaller

 - Original Message - From: Daniel J. Matyola
 danmaty...@gmail.com
 Subject: Re: Rock Climber


 Years ago, I visited home on those tiny little lots in Essex and in
 Hudson.  Before suburban sprawl, those neighborhoods were the land of
 opportunity for working class families .
 Dan Matyola
 http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola


 On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 12:12 AM, Dmitry Gromov grom...@gmail.com wrote:

 hi

 On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 12:11 AM, kwal...@peoplepc.com wrote:

 Sounds like you lived in Essex or Hudson county.



 Actually it was in Hudson County, in the city of Bayonne - often
 referred to
 by Jackie Gleason  the home of Chuck Wepner.


 Right, there is much more space in Essex county compared to Hudson! :)

 --
 //DG LOC(NJ)
 //*



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Re: Odd Behaviour with JAlbum

2012-05-31 Thread Brian Walters


Quoting steve harley p...@paper-ape.com:


on 2012-05-30 19:57 Brian Walters wrote
Not a big deal but I've been using JAlbum for years and never come  
across this
problem before. Anyone else seen something similar? Any ideas as to  
what part

of the Exif might be the problem?


i don't use JAlbum, but googling JAlbum hang exif has some ideas; i  
would probably just dump the metadata with EXIFTool to see if  
something stands out




Yeah.  If I have a few spare moments I'll do that.  It's not a big  
deal because I can manually add the Exif back in once the gallery is  
finalised, but I'd never come across this problem before.




--
Cheers

Brian

++
Brian Walters
Western Sydney Australia
http://lyons-ryan.org/southernlight/



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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread Larry Colen

On May 31, 2012, at 1:44 PM, P. J. Alling wrote:

 On 5/31/2012 3:31 PM, Larry Colen wrote:
 
 For those that would like to check for themselves, fluidr shows the exif 
 data, so you can see the flash meter reading, and my actual exposure data.
 http://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987116526/
 
 Those are about the geekiest nudes I've ever seen...

You should see the server room bondage series someone did a few years back.

 

--
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re: PESO: Bug on a milkweed flower

2012-05-31 Thread Don Guthrie
Like in humans the ugly ones are attracted to the prettiest but seldom 
vice-versa.


I always think macro shooting is a good way to end a photography slump. 
Just looking at your's might do it for me.




Message: 9
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 18:36:48 +
From: Collin Brendemuehl coll...@brendemuehl.net
To: pdml pdml@pdml.net
Subject: PESO: Bug on a milkweed flower
Message-ID: W893848919264031338489408@webmail14
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

http://www.flickr.com/photos/55001392@N08/7309647348/in/photostream/lightbox/

Sincerely,

Collin Brendemuehl
He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
-- Jim Elliott







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Re: PESO: Bug on a milkweed flower

2012-05-31 Thread steve harley

on 2012-05-31 12:36 Collin Brendemuehl wrote

http://www.flickr.com/photos/55001392@N08/7309647348/in/photostream/lightbox/


photo gives some sense of the everyday life of a bug — beauty all around but 
great toil just to take a few steps


appears to be Trirhabda genus; i have had iridescent blue larvae of another 
Trinhabda species infesting my rabbit brush lately:


https://www.dropbox.com/gallery/3510446/1/trirhabda-lewisii?h=f865a7

google told me there are several Trirhabda that feed on asclepias (the milkweed 
genus)



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Re: Improving the technical quality of my photography

2012-05-31 Thread kwaller
I've been thinking about this for a while, and the most important thing is 
self editing.  If you want to show your technical prowess, and an image 
isn't technically excellent don't show it.


Probably the single best thing you can do to improve your photography!

Kenneth Waller
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/kennethwaller

- Original Message - 
From: P. J. Alling webstertwenty...@gmail.com

Subject: Re: Improving the technical quality of my photography


I've been thinking about this for a while, and the most important thing is 
self editing.  If you want to show your technical prowess, and an image 
isn't technically excellent don't show it.  Like my recent PESO


http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1604247/PESO/PESO%20--%20notmistymourning.html

I didn't have a tripod with me, I did know exactly how I wanted the image 
to look, I took 25 or thirty exposures and minutely examined each one for 
camera movement and DOF.  The exposures that didn't make the cut no one 
will ever see.  You can't do that with action photos, one exposure is all 
you're likely to get.  If you practice enough you'll get your hit rate, 
but it if the image isn't up to your standards, don't show it, no matter 
how good the content is.


As a corollary, don't count on autofocus, it will always focus on the 
wrong thing, always, that is unless you have all the time in the world, 
they it will get it right.


On 5/30/2012 4:54 PM, Larry Colen wrote:
It often seems that the bulk of my photography is in situations where I'm 
pretty much trying to make the best of a bad situation, and I'm not so 
much going for a sharp photo, but a photo that is as sharp as I can get 
at the moment.


Call me bourgeois, but the poor technical quality (sharpness, exposure 
etc.) of my photos has been bothering me lately.


What have you done, if anything, to improve the technical quality of your 
photography, and how much difference did it make?
I can't really afford equipment upgrades at the moment, but if changing 
gear made a huge difference, that's important to know.


In a related note, if people have noticed consistent technical flaws that 
I make, like camera motion, or poor focus, that would also be helpful, 
and they could send me recommendations wither on, or off, list.


One thing that I do intend to do is start taking some photos in 
situations where it's theoretically possible to get extremely sharp 
photos, so that, frankly, I don't have any excuses that I can blame on 
the gear.


--
Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est




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Re: How to photograph the transit of Venus?

2012-05-31 Thread Miserere
On 29 May 2012 14:32, John Celio neo.venator.com+p...@gmail.com wrote:
 I want to try photographing the transit of Venus across the sun on
 June 5th, but I've never tried shooting the sun before. Any of you
 guys have tips you can share? Is there a special filter I should use,
 or would a polarizer or ND filter be sufficient? I'm planning on using
 my K 500mm f4.5, so I'll probably need to special order a large enough
 filter, and I'll need to do that soon.

 Thanks,
 John

 P.S.: Hey Aussie PDMLers, I loved your country! Just got home last
 Friday. I hope I get to go back to Australia soon, especially to see
 the outback and more of Tasmania.

John,

ND filters aren't enough (unless you stack a bunch of them). I've
bought a solar filter from these guys for my own plan to photograph
the transit:

http://stores.ebay.com/Seymour-Solar-Filters

It was listed as Solar - Sun Filter Sheets 9X12 for Telescopes,
Finder and cost me $17. It lets through 0.001% of the light reaching
it.

I received it earlier this week but haven't had time to fashion a
filter from the sheet. I plan to make a filter for my Tokina 400m
f/5.6 and another for my Sigma CAT 600mm f/8.

Filters for Solar observing/photography MUST ALWAYS BE ON THE
FRONT-MOST ELEMENT. The situation is so dangerous that for larger
reflecting telescopes (wider than 8) the filter is actually just a
hole in the telescope lid (with solar filter material covering the
hole, of course) because otherwise the concentrated and focused rays
of the Sun (even heavily filtered) could damage the secondary mirror.
In a standard lens, placing the filter in the rear filter tray would
probably damage said filter after a few minutes of observing the Sun.

Now for fun stuff: How long does your lens have to be? If using an
APS-C camera, I'd recommend 1000mm. The Sun's angular diameter is
~31.5 arcmin (arc minutes) and it moves across the sky at a rate of
~15 arcmin/min. A 1000mm lens will give you a 1.3 degree (78 arcmin)
horizontal FoV, so enough to fit ~2.5 Suns. If you orientate your
camera such that the Sun moves horizontally across your frame, you
should have the entire solar disc in your frame for ~3 mins (assuming
you're not using a motorised mount). If you're using a motorised
mount, then use a 1600mm lens and have the Sun practically fill your
frame (vertically).

As you're using a 500mm lens, I would suggest adding at least a 1.4x
teleconverter, or ideally a good 2x TC. Venus is going to be ~58
arcsec in diameter, so some 32.5 times smaller than the Sun. Using a
1000mm lens on a K-5 you get 1.05 pixels/arcsec, so the size of Venus
on your photograph will be ~60 pixels.

I recommend this site for practically all information regarding the
transit, including your local times of visibility:

http://www.transitofvenus.org

If you have an observatory or astronomy club near by, check to see if
they're organising an event for the occasion. If they are I'd
recommend going to take a look through a powerful telescope, even if
you take your gear along and also take photos.

Cheers,


   —M.

\/\/o/\/\ -- http://WorldOfMiserere.com

http://EnticingTheLight.com
A Quest for Photographic Enlightenment

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the directions.


Re: GESO art nudes, nsfw

2012-05-31 Thread Larry Colen
Thanks for all of the excellent feedback.

There is a lot about post processing that I still need to learn.  I just picked 
up the LR4 book, and now just need to read it.

Posing was a bit of a challenge with a hemiplegic model, she has limited 
mobility on her left side.  Also, her left eye lid was having issues last night 
and her left eye wasn't necessarily pointing in the same direction as her her 
right eye.  But that being said, I'll definitely keep your suggestions in mind. 

I did process a couple in black and white, I haven't tried much of the 
processing techniques you mentioned. I suspect that a big point to consider on 
the other thread is learning digital post processing much better.  I'm still 
getting used to the new controls in LR4.



On May 31, 2012, at 1:54 PM, Bruce Walker wrote:

 First off, good for you for getting right into experimental mode and
 doing some real-world work. I'd say the results are quite encouraging
 and if you can persuade your friend to sit for you again, do it.
 
 Here I will veer into personal preferences, so take with the usual grain-of.
 
 My technical issues in the shot you submitted for critique:
 
 - redness of face and neck and general skin blotchiness detract from
 this being an idealized figure study. Pretty easy fix: go BW. You'll
 see in your bw's that they look much better for overall evenness of
 skin tones.
 
 - hot spots. Your light source isn't soft enough yet. BW will help
 here too. Investigate strip-light softboxes. You can craft DIY ones.
 
 - too much detail. In a figure study like this I don't want to see
 pores, uncomplimentary lines, etc. I suggest some retouching -- not a
 lot! -- just enough to idealize your subject. Eg: try using the
 Distort - Diffuse Glow filter. Put it on a layer so you can mask its
 effect on eyes and lips. My go-to filter is Imagenomic Portraiture,
 but it's pricey. You could try out Portrait Professional. Disable its
 myriad default actions (like facial feature reshaping) and just enable
 skin softening features.
 
 - pose: needs work. :-) It's fine, even pretty good, and you filled
 the frame nicely, but that angle on her face isn't to my taste. Avoid
 arranging her body so you are shooting square-on. You should try to
 angle her trunk more to avoid putting on extra weight. Try also to use
 the longest tele focal lengths you can manage in the space. Get up on
 a ladder to help that.
 Study art books. Look up Edward Weston's nudes.
 
 But again, good stuff, Larry!
 
 
 On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 4:05 PM, Larry Colen l...@red4est.com wrote:
 In the spirit of Jeff Foxworthy,
 
 If your girlfriend comes home to find a naked woman on your couch, and she 
 doesn't bat an eye, you might be a photographer.
 
 As I mentioned, I've been jonesing to do some photography on a higher level 
 than I've had the opportunity for lately. A friend came over last night to 
 visit, and I convinced her to let me do some art nudes of her.  I set up the 
 photos up keeping in mind the discussions on the improving my technical 
 quality thread.  I meant to use both the strobes and the tripod but I found 
 that with a fidgety model trying to use a tripod would be too impractical.  
 I suppose I should have used my monopod, but I don't think I'm seeing too 
 much camera blur.
 
 It was a fun set because I'd describe my friend as more classically pretty 
 than conventionally pretty.  She's six foot tall, about 190 pounds and has 
 cerebral palsy.  In other words, she's not as slim as modern American tastes 
 dictate, but well within the preferences of figure artists.  I do need to 
 learn a lot more about lighting, but still managed to get some acceptable 
 photos.  I am feeling the need for a larger softbox to get softer lighting, 
 without blasting photons all over background that I may not want lit.
 
 Most of these were shot with a grid on my white lightning off stage right, 
 with some sort of fill, from stage left.  My fill light was one of those $25 
 strobes that you can screw into a light socket.  Many of them with a softbox 
 on it.  I was going to use the strobe that the softbox actually fits, but 
 the bulb for it got broken since I last used it.
 
 My friend wanted any pictures posted to flickr to be under restricted 
 access so that only people willing to see adult content can see them. So 
 I'm sorry if anyone wants to see them and doesn't have a flickr account.
 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987056554/
 
 I posted them at full resolution, because I'm actively seeking feedback, 
 primarily on technical issues right now, and you can't pixel peep low-rezzed 
 photos.
 
 Since feedback on a whole set is a lot of work so well, I'm picking this 
 one, as my favorite, to specifically ask for critique on, but feel free to 
 give me suggestions on any of them:
 
 standard:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/7309874796/
 
 full resolution:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/7309874796/sizes/o
 
 K-5 DA*16-50 

Re: Improving the technical quality of my photography

2012-05-31 Thread Larry Colen

On May 31, 2012, at 2:31 PM, kwal...@peoplepc.com wrote:

 I've been thinking about this for a while, and the most important thing is 
 self editing.  If you want to show your technical prowess, and an image 
 isn't technically excellent don't show it.
 
 Probably the single best thing you can do to improve your photography!

In my case, editing is probably the top six things I can do to improve my 
photography.

I really ought to get something else done today rather than respond to 
everyone's suggestions in detail.  There are a distressing number of things I 
know intellectually, but really ought to do more.  Kind of like bending my 
knees, keeping my chest up, and relaxing my arms in dance, and in aikido.  I 
keep hearing the same things from my instructors.  I also hear my instructors 
comment on how they are also working on those same things.

This really is turning into a valuable thread.  I suspect that a lot of the 
advice in it should be turned into a FAQ.  Also a lot of the contradictory 
advice (use a tripod / don't use a tripod) should be turned into advice about 
the fundamental principles (learn when to use a tripod).


--
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Re: Left out again in third party lenses

2012-05-31 Thread David J Brooks
On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 5:10 PM, John Mullan k...@hotmail.com wrote:
 They apparently thought Nikon and Canon needed some improvement.

 jm

Well, Canon for sure.

Dave

 -Original Message- From: P. J. Alling
 Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 1:33 PM
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
 Subject: Left out again in third party lenses


 Holga now offers pinhole lenses for DSLRs, only Canon and Nikon mount,
 however.  I'm not sure how to feel about being dissed by Holga.

 --
 Don't lose heart!  They might want to cut it out, and they'll want to avoid
 a lengthily search.


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Re: Packed and ready

2012-05-31 Thread David J Brooks
On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 12:38 PM, Mark Roberts
postmas...@robertstech.com wrote:
 Status report:

 I drove from Boston down to Raliegh, NC yesterday. 15 hours with two
 short rest stops. Stayed with friends overnight and drove to GFM this
 morning. Nice to travel without rushing today and I arrived just after
 noon and met all my friends on the mountain. Weather is beautiful here
 at the moment but there's a good chance of thunderstorms tomorrow,
 which could make registration for the NPW tricky tomorrow (it's
 usually done outdoors under a big tent).

 Noe one else has arrived yet. Don Nelson should be arriving with his
 son Scott this afternoon. I've had nothing but radio slience from Doug
 Brewer lately so I'm not sure if he's coming today or tomorrow.

Dangle a Dr Pepper and listen.:-)_


 Now I think I'll take a drive up the mountain and maybe test the video
 capabilities of the K5 on the way so I can show everyone who's never
 been here what it's like.

 More later.

We are waiting.

Dave


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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread luiz felipe
Larry, I'd rather use my meters in the incident light mode - assuming 
they had the option. That's probably the the only difference.


I used the Gossen Pro F for a very looong time, and used to bracket 
since local E-6 development had issues. With C41 I hardly used the 
Gossen, but in studio with the Ds and the Xti I had *always* some 
adjustment. If memory serves, the Xti wanted more than half stop more 
light, and the Ds would be ok with a little less than one stop more 
light. So your results do not look odd, even if I don't use grey cards.


Making adjustment according to the image mood and tonal range of the 
subject is sound procedure IMHO - always done that way, limited to the 
kind of film in use. I do want my whites with less detail and more light 
by default - again some adjustment required from the meter reading. I do 
enjoy building the pic if possible.


will check the pics later, underage sidekick is near. :-)

lf



Message: 16
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 12:31:12 -0700
From: Larry Colen l...@red4est.com
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
Subject: Flash Meter experiment
Message-ID: 7b7215ab-1ab1-4739-a138-d35ca8180...@red4est.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash
gear.  As an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd 
get

my lighting dialed in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a
grey card.
As far as I can tell, the way it works is to fire the strobe.  the
f/stop that it reads on the meter is the correct aperture for ASA 50
film.  Point the arrow on the dial at that aperture, then look at 
what

aperture lines up with the ISO, and that's the supposed correct
exposure.

I will say that it never completely blew the exposure, but it was
pretty consistently different from the exposure that I ended up 
using,

about a stop or so under.  In other words plenty of safe headroom for
something really bright in the picture, but not maximizing the SNR on
low key digital photos.  Shooting at ISO 80 on the K-5, I think that 
I

could feel confident that if I used the flash meter, and didn't check
the histogram, I would almost never blow a shot.

I am coming to the conclusion that it is a valuable tool to know how
to use, that there are situations that it can prove invaluable, but
likewise, the histogram is also a valuable tool, and I'd be foolish 
to

rely on the flash meter and ignore the histogram, if the histogram
were available.

For those that would like to check for themselves, fluidr shows the
exif data, so you can see the flash meter reading, and my actual
exposure data.
http://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987116526/

--
Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est

--
luiz felipe
luiz.felipe at luizfelipe.fot.br

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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread Bruce Walker
According to this article, you've got it about right. But there's no
point to using the gray card there, just hold the meter near the part
of the image that will be the brightest (or most sensitive to
overexposure, like facial skin), with the dome pointing back at the
camera lens (one general method) and fire your strobe(s). The meter is
supposed to flip up and stick at the required f-stop. You can
translate to different f-stops using the scale on the dial.

http://photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/009RaY

Another way to use it is to measure the light from each individual
strobe. To do that you'll need to make a tiny snoot from black paper
that fits the white dome. (Think of it as a reverse flash.) Holding
the meter near your subject, point the snoot at each light and fire it
(or them all) to measure its contribution.


On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 3:31 PM, Larry Colen l...@red4est.com wrote:

 I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash gear.
  As an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd get my lighting
 dialed in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a grey card.
 As far as I can tell, the way it works is to fire the strobe.  the f/stop
 that it reads on the meter is the correct aperture for ASA 50 film.  Point
 the arrow on the dial at that aperture, then look at what aperture lines up
 with the ISO, and that's the supposed correct exposure.

 I will say that it never completely blew the exposure, but it was pretty
 consistently different from the exposure that I ended up using, about a stop
 or so under.  In other words plenty of safe headroom for something really
 bright in the picture, but not maximizing the SNR on low key digital photos.
  Shooting at ISO 80 on the K-5, I think that I could feel confident that if
 I used the flash meter, and didn't check the histogram, I would almost never
 blow a shot.

 I am coming to the conclusion that it is a valuable tool to know how to
 use, that there are situations that it can prove invaluable, but likewise,
 the histogram is also a valuable tool, and I'd be foolish to rely on the
 flash meter and ignore the histogram, if the histogram were available.

 For those that would like to check for themselves, fluidr shows the exif
 data, so you can see the flash meter reading, and my actual exposure data.
 http://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987116526/

 --
 Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est





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-bmw

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Re: Left out again in third party lenses

2012-05-31 Thread Mark C

On 5/31/2012 1:33 PM, P. J. Alling wrote:
Holga now offers pinhole lenses for DSLRs, only Canon and Nikon mount, 
however.  I'm not sure how to feel about being dissed by Holga.



Try here

http://www.pinholeedun.com/Products_and_Ordering.html

They even feature a Pentax on the page.

MCC

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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread John Francis
Larry wrote:

 I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash
 gear.  As an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd get
 my lighting dialed in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a grey card.

I know that you've got an FA77Ltd - why are you shooting at 50mm?
I'd expect the longer focal length to be better suited to this work,
and presumably you've got enough space to step a bit further away.


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Re: OT: So, about that NHRA race . . .

2012-05-31 Thread Steven Desjardins
There will be other races.  Why can't you go another time?

On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 1:28 PM, Walt Gilbert ldott...@gmail.com wrote:
 Well, I find myself on the horns of a dilemma.

 Seems the trip to Montana I'd planned to take in late June/early July has
 been pushed back. Now, it's scheduled for September 28 -- the exact same
 date as the NHRA event. We'd be making a brief stop in the Black Hills of
 South Dakota before heading on to Billings.

 Two opportunities I may never get again, both getting underway on the exact
 same day.

 What to do? /What to do???/

 -- Walt

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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread Larry Colen


Begin forwarded message:

 From: luiz felipe luiz.fel...@techmit.com.br
 Date: May 31, 2012 4:09:36 PM PDT
 To: pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: Flash Meter experiment
 Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 
 
 
 will check the pics later, underage sidekick is near. :-)

These pictures are just of the flash meter and a grey card.
 
 

 From: Bruce Walker bruce.wal...@gmail.com
 Date: May 31, 2012 4:31:57 PM PDT
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: Flash Meter experiment
 Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 
 According to this article, you've got it about right. But there's no
 point to using the gray card there, just hold the meter near the part
 of the image that will be the brightest (or most sensitive to


Heh!  I was using the grey card in those photos as a color reference for 
lightroom.
Shooting two birds in one frame, as it were.


 overexposure, like facial skin), with the dome pointing back at the
 camera lens (one general method) and fire your strobe(s). The meter is
 supposed to flip up and stick at the required f-stop. You can
 translate to different f-stops using the scale on the dial.
 
 http://photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/009RaY
 
 Another way to use it is to measure the light from each individual
 strobe. To do that you'll need to make a tiny snoot from black paper
 that fits the white dome. (Think of it as a reverse flash.) Holding
 the meter near your subject, point the snoot at each light and fire it
 (or them all) to measure its contribution.
 
 

 From: John Francis jo...@panix.com
 Date: May 31, 2012 5:02:19 PM PDT
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: Flash Meter experiment
 Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 
 Larry wrote:
 
 I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash
 gear.  As an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd get
 my lighting dialed in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a grey card.
 
 I know that you've got an FA77Ltd - why are you shooting at 50mm?
 I'd expect the longer focal length to be better suited to this work,
 and presumably you've got enough space to step a bit further away.

They were shot in my living room, and to get the lights where I wanted, I 
didn't have any more room.  Unfortunately, my living room is long, but narrow.  

It was chilly enough she didn't want to do nude photos outdoors last night.  

 

--
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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread Paul Stenquist
A flash meter is best used in incident mode. When shooting a model, position it 
in an area where you want a normal, correct exposure (as opposed to a highlight 
or shadow), point it at the camera lens and fire your strobes. The f-stop 
displayed on the meter should be your exposure. To see how much light falloff 
or overexposure you have in other areas, you can reposition the meter and fire 
again. But your shooting stop should be there reading you get in the spot where 
you need a correct exposure. 

Paul
On May 31, 2012, at 3:31 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

 I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash gear.  As 
 an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd get my lighting 
 dialed in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a grey card.  
 As far as I can tell, the way it works is to fire the strobe.  the f/stop 
 that it reads on the meter is the correct aperture for ASA 50 film.  Point 
 the arrow on the dial at that aperture, then look at what aperture lines up 
 with the ISO, and that's the supposed correct exposure.
 
 I will say that it never completely blew the exposure, but it was pretty 
 consistently different from the exposure that I ended up using, about a stop 
 or so under.  In other words plenty of safe headroom for something really 
 bright in the picture, but not maximizing the SNR on low key digital photos.  
 Shooting at ISO 80 on the K-5, I think that I could feel confident that if I 
 used the flash meter, and didn't check the histogram, I would almost never 
 blow a shot.
 
 I am coming to the conclusion that it is a valuable tool to know how to use, 
 that there are situations that it can prove invaluable, but likewise, the 
 histogram is also a valuable tool, and I'd be foolish to rely on the flash 
 meter and ignore the histogram, if the histogram were available.
 
 For those that would like to check for themselves, fluidr shows the exif 
 data, so you can see the flash meter reading, and my actual exposure data.
 http://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987116526/
 
 --
 Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: OT - Olympic Rowing Pics

2012-05-31 Thread Bob Sullivan
Cotty,
Like Boris says, Like Father, Like Son...
No surprise Stef finds the pretty young girls to photograph!
Nice work Stef.
Regards,  Bob S.

On Wed, May 30, 2012 at 11:04 PM, Boris Liberman bori...@gmail.com wrote:
 Like father like son... You gotta be quite proud, Cotty!


 On 5/30/2012 20:47, Cotty wrote:

 Stef came along with me on a job yesterday and shot some pics of the
 adaptive rowing choices for the Olympics, and they have used them on the
 GB Rowing team Facebook pages

 Facebookers:

 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.
 10150910953179831.435413.287300964830type=1


 Alternatively you can see them on his Flickr photostream:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/stefsportphotos/

 --


 Cheers,
   Cotty


 ___/\__
 ||   (O)  |     People, Places, Pastiche
 --      http://www.cottysnaps.com
 _





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Re: Packed and ready

2012-05-31 Thread Bob Sullivan
We left at 8:11 AM this morning for Knoxville on the way to GFM.
For anybody driving down  I-75 (from Illinois, Wisconsin, Michigan,
Ohio, or Kentucky),
you probably knew that there were road problems in Tennessee.
20 miles or so south of the Kentucky state line, the road is washed
out...THE INTERSTATE!
The southbound traffic shares the Northbound lanes now - one lane each way.
First there are barricades and they shift you to the other side of the road,
Then the lefthand shoulder and lane just disappears, then the righthand is gone.
You are left looking right down into a wooded valley.
Wow,  Bob S.

On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 6:07 PM, David J Brooks pentko...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 12:38 PM, Mark Roberts
 postmas...@robertstech.com wrote:
 Status report:

 I drove from Boston down to Raliegh, NC yesterday. 15 hours with two
 short rest stops. Stayed with friends overnight and drove to GFM this
 morning. Nice to travel without rushing today and I arrived just after
 noon and met all my friends on the mountain. Weather is beautiful here
 at the moment but there's a good chance of thunderstorms tomorrow,
 which could make registration for the NPW tricky tomorrow (it's
 usually done outdoors under a big tent).

 Noe one else has arrived yet. Don Nelson should be arriving with his
 son Scott this afternoon. I've had nothing but radio slience from Doug
 Brewer lately so I'm not sure if he's coming today or tomorrow.

 Dangle a Dr Pepper and listen.:-)_


 Now I think I'll take a drive up the mountain and maybe test the video
 capabilities of the K5 on the way so I can show everyone who's never
 been here what it's like.

 More later.

 We are waiting.

 Dave


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I have a secret...

2012-05-31 Thread Tanya Love
...but you didn't hear it from me.

Let me say two things only:

1. September
2. FF

I can hardly contain myself!!

tan. :-)

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: PESO 2012 - 055 - GDG

2012-05-31 Thread Mark C
Nice shot - I like how the light grasses in the foreground are somewhat 
mirrored in the darker grasses in the background. But that is just one 
element - overall, it has a very nice feel to it.


MCC

On 5/27/2012 6:00 PM, Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:

Finally had time and energy to do some photography yesterday on my walk in 
Guadalupe River Park.

   http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdgphoto/7282337352/lightbox
or
   http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdgphoto/7282337352/

Thanks for looking. Comments appreciated.

Godfrey
-
http://godfreydigiorgi.posterous.com




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Re: I have a secret...

2012-05-31 Thread Steven Desjardins
Who would we tell?  I wonder if HP sauce goes well on hats. . . .

On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 9:38 PM, Tanya Love tanyal...@bigpond.com wrote:
 ...but you didn't hear it from me.

 Let me say two things only:

 1. September
 2. FF

 I can hardly contain myself!!

 tan. :-)

 Sent from my iPhone

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Re: FS: misc used lenses

2012-05-31 Thread Tanya Love
Hey Stan,

What version/s/speed are the zooms?

Tan. :-)

Sent from my iPhone

On 31/05/2012, at 11:11 AM, Stan Halpin s...@stans-photography.info wrote:

 I was in the local camera store today, just hanging around while Meg got a 
 passport photo taken. Five used Pentax lenses for sale - they said the 
 original owner had switched to Nikon. If you are interested I can act as 
 go-between or pass their contact info on to you . . .
 
 FA 50/1.4  $275
 18-55 (2) $95
 28-80 $75
 75-300 $125
 
 stan
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Re: I have a secret...

2012-05-31 Thread Tanya Love
I have no idea what that means Steven! Lol!

Sent from my iPhone

On 01/06/2012, at 11:41 AM, Steven Desjardins drd1...@gmail.com wrote:

 Who would we tell?  I wonder if HP sauce goes well on hats. . . .
 
 On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 9:38 PM, Tanya Love tanyal...@bigpond.com wrote:
 ...but you didn't hear it from me.
 
 Let me say two things only:
 
 1. September
 2. FF
 
 I can hardly contain myself!!
 
 tan. :-)
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
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 Steve Desjardins
 
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Re: I have a secret...

2012-05-31 Thread Jeffery Smith
I give up. There will be a full frame Pentax in September? If not, I'll be 
disappointed by the ... hype?

Sent from my iPad

Jeffery L. Smith
New Orleans, Louisiana
USA

On May 31, 2012, at 20:38, Tanya Love tanyal...@bigpond.com wrote:

 ...but you didn't hear it from me.
 
 Let me say two things only:
 
 1. September
 2. FF
 
 I can hardly contain myself!!
 
 tan. :-)
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
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Re: I have a secret...

2012-05-31 Thread Steven Desjardins
A certain Brit once declared he would eat his hat if the letters FF
were ever associated with Pentax.  And since I watch TopGear, I know
that HP sauce is some kind of British equivalent to ketchup.

On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 9:42 PM, Tanya Love tanyal...@bigpond.com wrote:
 I have no idea what that means Steven! Lol!

 Sent from my iPhone

 On 01/06/2012, at 11:41 AM, Steven Desjardins drd1...@gmail.com wrote:

 Who would we tell?  I wonder if HP sauce goes well on hats. . . .

 On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 9:38 PM, Tanya Love tanyal...@bigpond.com wrote:
 ...but you didn't hear it from me.

 Let me say two things only:

 1. September
 2. FF

 I can hardly contain myself!!

 tan. :-)

 Sent from my iPhone

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Re: I have a secret...

2012-05-31 Thread Mark C

On 5/31/2012 9:38 PM, Tanya Love wrote:

...but you didn't hear it from me.

Let me say two things only:

1. September
2. FF

I can hardly contain myself!!

tan. :-)

Sent from my iPhone


Well, let's hope the third thing isn't 2015 ;-)

I hope you are right!

MCC

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Re: I have a secret...

2012-05-31 Thread Jeffery Smith
It's called Heinz-57 Brown Sauce. I don't use condiments named Brown Sauce. 

Sent from my iPad

Jeffery L. Smith
New Orleans, Louisiana
USA

On May 31, 2012, at 20:45, Steven Desjardins drd1...@gmail.com wrote:

 A certain Brit once declared he would eat his hat if the letters FF
 were ever associated with Pentax.  And since I watch TopGear, I know
 that HP sauce is some kind of British equivalent to ketchup.
 
 On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 9:42 PM, Tanya Love tanyal...@bigpond.com wrote:
 I have no idea what that means Steven! Lol!
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On 01/06/2012, at 11:41 AM, Steven Desjardins drd1...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Who would we tell?  I wonder if HP sauce goes well on hats. . . .
 
 On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 9:38 PM, Tanya Love tanyal...@bigpond.com wrote:
 ...but you didn't hear it from me.
 
 Let me say two things only:
 
 1. September
 2. FF
 
 I can hardly contain myself!!
 
 tan. :-)
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
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 PDML@pdml.net
 http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
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 follow the directions.
 
 
 
 --
 Steve Desjardins
 
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Re: I have a secret...

2012-05-31 Thread Tanya Love
So do I!! Let's just say I was told in person, (as in face to face) by a VERY 
reliable sauce (pun intended!), - ie. one of the heads of marketing for Pentax 
Australia - and of course, I was sworn to secrecy, and of course, I had my 
fingers crossed, and ran straight back here to tell you guys! Lol. but, you 
didn't hear it from me! Hehe.

Btw, I asked them ok, so you know then that it should be your top priority to 
get one of those things into my hands ASAP as next year I intend to use it to 
take the title of Australian Professional Photographer Of The Year. I was being 
cocky and only half joking, but I think it got him thinking. ;-)

Sent from my iPhone

On 01/06/2012, at 11:48 AM, Mark C pdml-m...@charter.net wrote:

 On 5/31/2012 9:38 PM, Tanya Love wrote:
 ...but you didn't hear it from me.
 
 Let me say two things only:
 
 1. September
 2. FF
 
 I can hardly contain myself!!
 
 tan. :-)
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 Well, let's hope the third thing isn't 2015 ;-)
 
 I hope you are right!
 
 MCC
 
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Re: I have a secret...

2012-05-31 Thread Tanya Love
Lol! Well maybe Cotty will have to get his tools out and start making some 
mutant Canon lenses so he can switch back to Pentax in September!

(so hope my sauce is right!)

Sent from my iPhone

On 01/06/2012, at 11:45 AM, Steven Desjardins drd1...@gmail.com wrote:

 A certain Brit once declared he would eat his hat if the letters FF
 were ever associated with Pentax.  And since I watch TopGear, I know
 that HP sauce is some kind of British equivalent to ketchup.
 
 On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 9:42 PM, Tanya Love tanyal...@bigpond.com wrote:
 I have no idea what that means Steven! Lol!
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On 01/06/2012, at 11:41 AM, Steven Desjardins drd1...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Who would we tell?  I wonder if HP sauce goes well on hats. . . .
 
 On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 9:38 PM, Tanya Love tanyal...@bigpond.com wrote:
 ...but you didn't hear it from me.
 
 Let me say two things only:
 
 1. September
 2. FF
 
 I can hardly contain myself!!
 
 tan. :-)
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
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Re: Eerm, it's a bit exciting!

2012-05-31 Thread Tanya Love
Lol! Of course!

Sent from my iPhone

On 30/05/2012, at 11:20 PM, Darren Addy pixelsmi...@gmail.com wrote:

 congrats!
 FWIW, I'm guessing you actually earned the FIRST spot, but naturally
 they had to give that to a Canon shooter.
 :)
 
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