Re: Pick a camera

2012-01-10 Thread Darren Addy
Another thought on this employer buying camera thing.

I do product photography as part of my job at work. I use my own
camera and lenses. I did not have a modern flash for my DSLR and
needed one for an upcoming event shoot. (The governor of Nebraska had
chosen to visit our company's booth at a huge agricultural show and I
wanted to make it a photo op for our company.) The boss bought me a
nice top end Metz and he said it was because I use my own camera.

You might consider making them a proposal for a piece of equipment if
you save them the money of buying the camera. It is worth it to me to
be able to use equipment that I am very familiar with.

(Some people may feel strongly about keeping the two completely
separate, but my situation works very well for my employer and me).

Darren Addy
Kearney, Nebraska

On 1/9/12, David Parsons parsons.da...@gmail.com wrote:
 If you've never lit anything before, get Light: Science and Magic.
 It's required reading.

 It's also a good idea to go through www.strobist.com Lighting 101 and
 102.  It will also help you understand how to light.

 Any camera will work, so you might as well use what you are
 comfortable with.  You'll be on manual all the time anyway.

 Personally, I would go with studio strobes that you can use with
 appropriate modifiers.  Softboxes, snoots, etc.

 On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 7:48 PM, Collin Brendemuehl
 coll...@brendemuehl.net wrote:
 I'm starting a new job this week.
 It will entail both photography and web development.
 The photography will entail doing hundreds/thousands of internal
 engine and transmission components and indexing them for web display
 and later ecommerce.

 Parts will be polished and shiny.  I will need to picture each variation
 of each part, noting where the oiling holes are located, etc.

 It's a new operation and my task includes choosing the camera  lighting.
 Here's my thought:
 1.  Cool lighting -- two fluorescent lights for a soft  even coverage.
 2.  A camera with built-in HDR.

 I'm going to do some experimenting with the in-camera HDR tomorrow on a
 still object with side lighting, just to see what HDR will produce.

 Of course either a K5 or K7 would be ideal.  But I'll have to look @ all
 makes, just to be fair to the employer.

 Any input/thoughts on this is appreciated.  Tx.

 Sincerely,

 Collin Brendemuehl
 He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
 -- Jim Elliott






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Re: Pick a camera

2012-01-10 Thread Ann Sanfedele
When I first got on PDML (back before the flood) I asked about phto'ing 
shiny stuff as I had to photo chocolate chips... little did I know

I was shooting them in the packages til I got em.  Little crinkly
sacks of glare - the solution was to put polarizers on the light sources
on two lights at 45 degree angles and a polarizer on the lens, too.
Can't remember the details - didn't a light box -the packages were on
shelves - it was a kind of which one would you reach for questionnaire 
.. not anything too fancy, just had to be precise.


I liked the money but hated the work :-)

ann




On 1/10/2012 08:15, Darren Addy wrote:

Another thought on this employer buying camera thing.

I do product photography as part of my job at work. I use my own
camera and lenses. I did not have a modern flash for my DSLR and
needed one for an upcoming event shoot. (The governor of Nebraska had
chosen to visit our company's booth at a huge agricultural show and I
wanted to make it a photo op for our company.) The boss bought me a
nice top end Metz and he said it was because I use my own camera.

You might consider making them a proposal for a piece of equipment if
you save them the money of buying the camera. It is worth it to me to
be able to use equipment that I am very familiar with.

(Some people may feel strongly about keeping the two completely
separate, but my situation works very well for my employer and me).

Darren Addy
Kearney, Nebraska

On 1/9/12, David Parsonsparsons.da...@gmail.com  wrote:

If you've never lit anything before, get Light: Science and Magic.
It's required reading.

It's also a good idea to go through www.strobist.com Lighting 101 and
102.  It will also help you understand how to light.

Any camera will work, so you might as well use what you are
comfortable with.  You'll be on manual all the time anyway.

Personally, I would go with studio strobes that you can use with
appropriate modifiers.  Softboxes, snoots, etc.

On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 7:48 PM, Collin Brendemuehl
coll...@brendemuehl.net  wrote:

I'm starting a new job this week.
It will entail both photography and web development.
The photography will entail doing hundreds/thousands of internal
engine and transmission components and indexing them for web display
and later ecommerce.

Parts will be polished and shiny.  I will need to picture each variation
of each part, noting where the oiling holes are located, etc.

It's a new operation and my task includes choosing the camera  lighting.
Here's my thought:
1.  Cool lighting -- two fluorescent lights for a soft  even coverage.
2.  A camera with built-in HDR.

I'm going to do some experimenting with the in-camera HDR tomorrow on a
still object with side lighting, just to see what HDR will produce.

Of course either a K5 or K7 would be ideal.  But I'll have to look @ all
makes, just to be fair to the employer.

Any input/thoughts on this is appreciated.  Tx.

Sincerely,

Collin Brendemuehl
He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
-- Jim Elliott






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http://alohaphotog.blogspot.com/

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Re: Pick a camera

2012-01-10 Thread Collin Brendemuehl
Thanks for all the thoughts.  Ann's thought polarizing the light source may 
come into play.  Certainly a PL on the camera is a minimum.

This will be my first career-class photo work since my studio effort in 1985.

Next stop:  Looking @ cameras and lenses.  We'll start with used equipment.

Sincerely, 

Collin Brendemuehl 
He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose 
-- Jim Elliott 






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Re: Pick a camera

2012-01-10 Thread Collin Brendemuehl
These are the lights that I am requesting:
http://mpex.com/interfit-super-coolite-5.html

If the room were larger and better-ventilated,
I'd just use shop lights.  It seems these DSLRs 
will automatically compensate for any lighting tonality.
And if not, PS and shooting raw covers a multitude
of lighting sins.

Sincerely, 

Collin Brendemuehl 
He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose 
-- Jim Elliott 






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Re: Pick a camera

2012-01-10 Thread Underpaid N. Overpentaxed
Just a thought, will you need perspective correction for any images at all?
Cheers
Ecke

2012/1/10 Collin Brendemuehl coll...@brendemuehl.net:
 These are the lights that I am requesting:
 http://mpex.com/interfit-super-coolite-5.html

 If the room were larger and better-ventilated,
 I'd just use shop lights.  It seems these DSLRs
 will automatically compensate for any lighting tonality.
 And if not, PS and shooting raw covers a multitude
 of lighting sins.

 Sincerely,

 Collin Brendemuehl
 He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
 -- Jim Elliott






 --
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 PDML@pdml.net
 http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
 to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow 
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Re: Pick a camera

2012-01-10 Thread Bruce Walker
Very likely if they are parts for imports, like Audi or BMW. Shot
normally they will appear to be overpriced, but with proper
perspective correction the consumer will think he's getting a bargain.

On Tue, Jan 10, 2012 at 10:44 AM, Underpaid N. Overpentaxed
overpenta...@googlemail.com wrote:
 Just a thought, will you need perspective correction for any images at all?
 Cheers
 Ecke

 2012/1/10 Collin Brendemuehl coll...@brendemuehl.net:
 These are the lights that I am requesting:
 http://mpex.com/interfit-super-coolite-5.html

 If the room were larger and better-ventilated,
 I'd just use shop lights.  It seems these DSLRs
 will automatically compensate for any lighting tonality.
 And if not, PS and shooting raw covers a multitude
 of lighting sins.

 Sincerely,

 Collin Brendemuehl
 He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
 -- Jim Elliott

-- 
-bmw

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Re: Pick a camera

2012-01-10 Thread Bruce Walker
I'd not rush the purchase of the polarized filter.

According to the Light book, Ann's PL worked because plastics produce
polarized reflections. But unless your polished and shiny metal parts
are also painted, they will produce unpolarized reflections  and so
the polarizing filter will be useless to cut glare. [Pg 45, 3rd
edition]

With the money I just saved you, you could buy that book. :-)


On Tue, Jan 10, 2012 at 10:31 AM, Collin Brendemuehl
coll...@brendemuehl.net wrote:
 Thanks for all the thoughts.  Ann's thought polarizing the light source may 
 come into play.  Certainly a PL on the camera is a minimum.

 This will be my first career-class photo work since my studio effort in 1985.

 Next stop:  Looking @ cameras and lenses.  We'll start with used equipment.

 Sincerely,

 Collin Brendemuehl
 He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
 -- Jim Elliott

-- 
-bmw

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Re: Pick a camera

2012-01-10 Thread steve harley

on 2012-01-10 08:38 Collin Brendemuehl wrote

And if not, PS and shooting raw covers a multitude
of lighting sins.


i'd think you could handle that in LightRoom, though getting the lighting right 
up front would be most efficient, and that you'd want to stay out of Photoshop 
in order to keep the time per image down


having done quite a bit of bulk scanning, and a bit of bulk copy photography 
(on top of a career in automating other processes) i've found it crucial to 
develop a process that reduces or eliminates rework



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Re: Pick a camera

2012-01-10 Thread John Sessoms

From: Collin Brendemuehl


These are the lights that I am requesting:
http://mpex.com/interfit-super-coolite-5.html

If the room were larger and better-ventilated,
I'd just use shop lights.  It seems these DSLRs
will automatically compensate for any lighting tonality.
And if not, PS and shooting raw covers a multitude
of lighting sins.

Sincerely,

Collin Brendemuehl


Get you one of these do-hickeys to go with 'em.

http://www.amazon.com/XPRO-Studio-Photography-Light-Tent/dp/B000BFYXGG

They usually should have a front panel with a slit for the lens to poke 
through so you get a complete white surround. If it doesn't, get a piece 
of white foam core  cut a hole to fit the lens  put that across the 
opening.


Shooting reflective metal, you don't light the metal; you light what's 
going to be reflected in the metal.


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Re: Pick a camera

2012-01-10 Thread Collin Brendemuehl
No perspective control needed.

Sincerely, 

Collin Brendemuehl 
He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose 
-- Jim Elliott 




-Original Message-
From: Underpaid N. Overpentaxed [mailto:overpenta...@googlemail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2012 10:44 AM
To: 'Pentax-Discuss Mail List'
Subject: Re: Pick a camera

Just a thought, will you need perspective correction for any images at all?
Cheers
Ecke

2012/1/10 Collin Brendemuehl coll...@brendemuehl.net:
 These are the lights that I am requesting:
 http://mpex.com/interfit-super-coolite-5.html

 If the room were larger and better-ventilated,
 I'd just use shop lights.  It seems these DSLRs
 will automatically compensate for any lighting tonality.
 And if not, PS and shooting raw covers a multitude
 of lighting sins.

 Sincerely,

 Collin Brendemuehl
 He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
 -- Jim Elliott






 --
 PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List
 PDML@pdml.net
 http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
 to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and 
 follow the directions.

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Re: Pick a camera

2012-01-10 Thread Collin Brendemuehl
Agreed.
And as one shooting expensive sheet film, getting it
right the first time is always best.

Sincerely, 

Collin Brendemuehl 
He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose 
-- Jim Elliott 




-Original Message-
From: steve harley [mailto:p...@paper-ape.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2012 01:41 PM
To: 'Pentax-Discuss Mail List'
Subject: Re: Pick a camera

on 2012-01-10 08:38 Collin Brendemuehl wrote
 And if not, PS and shooting raw covers a multitude
 of lighting sins.

i'd think you could handle that in LightRoom, though getting the lighting 
right 
up front would be most efficient, and that you'd want to stay out of Photoshop 
in order to keep the time per image down

having done quite a bit of bulk scanning, and a bit of bulk copy photography 
(on top of a career in automating other processes) i've found it crucial to 
develop a process that reduces or eliminates rework


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Pick a camera

2012-01-09 Thread Collin Brendemuehl
I'm starting a new job this week.
It will entail both photography and web development.
The photography will entail doing hundreds/thousands of internal
engine and transmission components and indexing them for web display
and later ecommerce.

Parts will be polished and shiny.  I will need to picture each variation of 
each part, noting where the oiling holes are located, etc. 

It's a new operation and my task includes choosing the camera  lighting.
Here's my thought:
1.  Cool lighting -- two fluorescent lights for a soft  even coverage.
2.  A camera with built-in HDR.

I'm going to do some experimenting with the in-camera HDR tomorrow on a still 
object with side lighting, just to see what HDR will produce.

Of course either a K5 or K7 would be ideal.  But I'll have to look @ all makes, 
just to be fair to the employer.

Any input/thoughts on this is appreciated.  Tx.

Sincerely, 

Collin Brendemuehl 
He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose 
-- Jim Elliott 






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Re: Pick a camera

2012-01-09 Thread Darren Addy
Congrats on the new position!

Couple of random thoughts... first, this book is highly recommended:
http://books.google.com/books?id=XwKafyHW3NIClpg=PA119ots=elMk2IDh-ddq=best%20way%20to%20photograph%20polished%20metalpg=PA119#v=onepageq=best%20way%20to%20photograph%20polished%20metalf=false

Secondly, highly polished metal can reflect everything including your
light setup, camera, photographer... so you may want a large softbox
for lighting (it will make indistict large reflections). You may even
shoot though a small hole in a light tent (where everything around
your lens is white).

You may want to rig up something that suspends objects more or less
invisibly (if light enough, such as with fishing line) so you can
remove the shadow of the object by lifting it above your tabletop (or
whatever). You may also want to experiment with a table top of curved
plexiglass that can be lit from below (perhaps in addition to above).

Don't really know a lot about how in-camera HDR really works, if it
brings any advantages. Lit correctly, I'm not sure that your parts
will really be a high dynamic range scene that will benefit, but then
again they might. If thousands of photos/items are to be taken, I'm
sure that your employer will want the fuss with each one to be kept to
a minimum if they want the project live before the turn of the
century.
: )

If the end result is web only, any DSLR is probably more than capable.
Your money may be better spent on lighting and set considerations.

Darren Addy
Kearney, Nebraska

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Re: Pick a camera

2012-01-09 Thread Bruce Walker
On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 8:13 PM, Darren Addy pixelsmi...@gmail.com wrote:
 Congrats on the new position!

 Couple of random thoughts... first, this book is highly recommended:
 http://books.google.com/books?id=XwKafyHW3NIClpg=PA119ots=elMk2IDh-ddq=best%20way%20to%20photograph%20polished%20metalpg=PA119#v=onepageq=best%20way%20to%20photograph%20polished%20metalf=false

 Secondly, highly polished metal can reflect everything including your
 light setup, camera, photographer... so you may want a large softbox
 for lighting (it will make indistict large reflections). You may even
 shoot though a small hole in a light tent (where everything around
 your lens is white).

 You may want to rig up something that suspends objects more or less
 invisibly (if light enough, such as with fishing line) so you can
 remove the shadow of the object by lifting it above your tabletop (or
 whatever). You may also want to experiment with a table top of curved
 plexiglass that can be lit from below (perhaps in addition to above).

 Don't really know a lot about how in-camera HDR really works, if it
 brings any advantages. Lit correctly, I'm not sure that your parts
 will really be a high dynamic range scene that will benefit, but then
 again they might. If thousands of photos/items are to be taken, I'm
 sure that your employer will want the fuss with each one to be kept to
 a minimum if they want the project live before the turn of the
 century.
 : )

 If the end result is web only, any DSLR is probably more than capable.
 Your money may be better spent on lighting and set considerations.

 Darren Addy
 Kearney, Nebraska

I have to second everything that Darren has said, especially the book;
it's brilliant.

And my 2 cents on the HDR plan: forget it. (That's 1 cent per word.)

A well-lit scene is a low dynamic range image. If you light engine
parts with a softbox like Darren suggests you are removing shadows and
minimizing specular (direct) reflections at once, so it's pretty-much
the exact opposite of a scene that needs HDR techniques to cram into
the dynamic range of the camera sensor. You'll be more likely to
need/want to increase the contrast (eg pulling on the Blacks slider in
Lightroom).

I'd also consider LED light arrays rather than fluorescent lights as
they are much cooler running and very flexible.

Congrats landing what sounds like a really cool job.

-- 
-bmw

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Re: Pick a camera

2012-01-09 Thread David Parsons
If you've never lit anything before, get Light: Science and Magic.
It's required reading.

It's also a good idea to go through www.strobist.com Lighting 101 and
102.  It will also help you understand how to light.

Any camera will work, so you might as well use what you are
comfortable with.  You'll be on manual all the time anyway.

Personally, I would go with studio strobes that you can use with
appropriate modifiers.  Softboxes, snoots, etc.

On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 7:48 PM, Collin Brendemuehl
coll...@brendemuehl.net wrote:
 I'm starting a new job this week.
 It will entail both photography and web development.
 The photography will entail doing hundreds/thousands of internal
 engine and transmission components and indexing them for web display
 and later ecommerce.

 Parts will be polished and shiny.  I will need to picture each variation of 
 each part, noting where the oiling holes are located, etc.

 It's a new operation and my task includes choosing the camera  lighting.
 Here's my thought:
 1.  Cool lighting -- two fluorescent lights for a soft  even coverage.
 2.  A camera with built-in HDR.

 I'm going to do some experimenting with the in-camera HDR tomorrow on a still 
 object with side lighting, just to see what HDR will produce.

 Of course either a K5 or K7 would be ideal.  But I'll have to look @ all 
 makes, just to be fair to the employer.

 Any input/thoughts on this is appreciated.  Tx.

 Sincerely,

 Collin Brendemuehl
 He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
 -- Jim Elliott






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http://www.davidparsonsphoto.com

Aloha Photographer Photoblog
http://alohaphotog.blogspot.com/

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