[pestlist] Sterilite

[Neil Carey]

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Thanks Sam,

A few weeks ago I was looking at the Sterilite containers on the ULine site 
where I got my polystyrene bagging materials. They do come in a wide array of 
sizes. Since the freezing part is finished, the only issue now is keeping out 
the critters. I used a 3M double sided tape that the mfr. rated down to lower 
than my -30c., but now I could probably utilize something like wide masking 
tape or even foam tape to seal Sterilite lids.

– Neil



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Re: [pestlist] Plastic containers

[Samantha_Richert]

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Neil,

Sterilite containers might be a possibility.  They don't have a locking
seal but they are transparent.  Supposedly they do not off-gas.  I use them
for objects at home and I do notice that while Rubbermaide containers have
an odor, the Sterilite containers do not.   They are more rigid than the
Rubbermaid containers as well.  You can find them at places like Fred Meyer
and Target.
Sam


Samantha Richert, Curator
Klondike Gold Rush NHP
P.O. Box 517
Skagway, AK 99840
907-983-9222



   
 Neil Carey
To 
 Sent by:  pestlist@museumpests.net
 admin@museumpests  cc 
 .net  
   Subject 
   [pestlist] Plastic containers   
 08/27/2012 12:35  
 PM
   
   
 Please respond to 
 pestlist@museumpe 
  sts.net  
   
   




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Amber…

Thanks for your post re: Lock&Lock plastic containers. I looked at both
your Amazon link and at their own website. They seem ideal for small items,
but I could not find any large enough for larger objects. We have many
pieces that barely fit into a 24" x 36" polyethylene bag, and some Kpelle
masks with feathered coifs approach 40". The larger pieces can always be
handled individually, but I wonder if there are 18-24" x 30-36" containers
similar to the L&L that could accommodate the bulk of our collection.
Having transparency, a good seal, being nestable and stackable with enough
capacity seems ideal.

Neil



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RE: [pestlist] Plastic containers

[Anderson, Gretchen]

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Jerry. I have seen what Amber's system - and it is impressive. The containers 
are altered, including additional gaskets.  Yes, it is more complicated than 
just  purchasing off the shelf  and the enclosures need to be tested.  But this 
is an affordable way to go and it is possible.   As I stated earlier I was able 
to maintain micro climate for 5 years with confidence.  I am not saying that it 
is completely air tight.  But we were able to maintain 30% RH for that length 
of time.  

Gretchen 

-Original Message-
From: ad...@museumpests.net [mailto:ad...@museumpests.net] On Behalf Of Jerry 
Shiner
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 5:27 PM
To: pestlist@museumpests.net
Subject: RE: [pestlist] Plastic containers

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Neil

Providing an "air tight" seal for a large tub is far more challenging than 
snapping a gasketed lid onto a small box. For a truly air tight solution, you 
should consider a flexible (plastic) envelope.  I don't think you will find a 
large, truly air tight container at reasonable cost.

If you decide to bag the artifact(s), you need to consider the materials used 
to make the bag, and your expectations. Are you simply protecting from air 
currents and dust (short term work like freezing or construction dust 
protection)? Will offgassing from the plastic (or its
plasticizers) be a hazard? Are you concerned about chemicals/odours/moisture 
permeating the bag (in or out)?  Would it be useful to create an anoxic 
environment?

If storage is temporary, you will have few worries, but if it is a long term 
application, it would be worthwhile to investigate barrier films and heat 
sealers. 

js

Jerry Shiner
Keepsafe Microclimate Systems
800 683 4696  www.keepsafe.ca i...@keepsafe.ca Specializing in the design, 
procurement, and installation of environmental control systems in museums and 
archives.
 
 


-Original Message-
From: ad...@museumpests.net [mailto:ad...@museumpests.net] On Behalf Of Neil 
Carey
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 4:36 PM
To: pestlist@museumpests.net
Subject: [pestlist] Plastic containers


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Amber.

Thanks for your post re: Lock&Lock plastic containers. I looked at both your 
Amazon link and at their own website. They seem ideal for small items, but I 
could not find any large enough for larger objects. We have many pieces that 
barely fit into a 24" x 36" polyethylene bag, and some Kpelle masks with 
feathered coifs approach 40". The larger pieces can always be handled 
individually, but I wonder if there are 18-24" x 30-36" containers similar to 
the L&L that could accommodate the bulk of our collection. Having transparency, 
a good seal, being nestable and stackable with enough capacity seems ideal.

Neil



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of the

RE: [pestlist] Plastic containers

[Jerry Shiner]

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Neil

Providing an "air tight" seal for a large tub is far more challenging
than snapping a gasketed lid onto a small box. For a truly air tight
solution, you should consider a flexible (plastic) envelope.  I don't
think you will find a large, truly air tight container at reasonable
cost.

If you decide to bag the artifact(s), you need to consider the materials
used to make the bag, and your expectations. Are you simply protecting
from air currents and dust (short term work like freezing or
construction dust protection)? Will offgassing from the plastic (or its
plasticizers) be a hazard? Are you concerned about
chemicals/odours/moisture permeating the bag (in or out)?  Would it be
useful to create an anoxic environment?

If storage is temporary, you will have few worries, but if it is a long
term application, it would be worthwhile to investigate barrier films
and heat sealers. 

js

Jerry Shiner
Keepsafe Microclimate Systems
800 683 4696  www.keepsafe.ca i...@keepsafe.ca
Specializing in the design, procurement, and installation of
environmental control systems in museums and archives.
 
 


-Original Message-
From: ad...@museumpests.net [mailto:ad...@museumpests.net] On Behalf Of
Neil Carey
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 4:36 PM
To: pestlist@museumpests.net
Subject: [pestlist] Plastic containers


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Amber.

Thanks for your post re: Lock&Lock plastic containers. I looked at both
your Amazon link and at their own website. They seem ideal for small
items, but I could not find any large enough for larger objects. We have
many pieces that barely fit into a 24" x 36" polyethylene bag, and some
Kpelle masks with feathered coifs approach 40". The larger pieces can
always be handled individually, but I wonder if there are 18-24" x
30-36" containers similar to the L&L that could accommodate the bulk of
our collection. Having transparency, a good seal, being nestable and
stackable with enough capacity seems ideal.

Neil



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[pestlist] Plastic containers

[Neil Carey]

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Amber…

Thanks for your post re: Lock&Lock plastic containers. I looked at both your 
Amazon link and at their own website. They seem ideal for small items, but I 
could not find any large enough for larger objects. We have many pieces that 
barely fit into a 24" x 36" polyethylene bag, and some Kpelle masks with 
feathered coifs approach 40". The larger pieces can always be handled 
individually, but I wonder if there are 18-24" x 30-36" containers similar to 
the L&L that could accommodate the bulk of our collection. Having transparency, 
a good seal, being nestable and stackable with enough capacity seems ideal.

Neil



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Re: [pestlist] Use of plastic tubs for fumigation and pest protection??

[Alex Roach]

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Hi Bonnie

We've had a number herbarium pest problems in Australia in recent years, mainly 
with herbarium/drugstore beetles (Stegobium panaceum), but also cigarette 
beetles (Lasioderma serricorne). The specimens have been stored in a variety of 
ways including plastic tubs and cardboard boxes. Neither have proven effective 
as a barrier to attack, especially to highly attractive families the Asteraceae 
family.

We have been using prefabricated high-barrier bags to encapsulate such 
specimens in an effort to make them 'invisible' to pests (i.e. no odour to 
attract the bugs). This has been done in conjunction with a number of other 
steps such as temperature control, pheromone trapping.

In short, if there is an existing pest problem I don't think the tubs will 
afford any protection.

Best wishes
Alex

Alex Roach
Heritage Pest Management

On 27/08/2012, at 9:29 AM, Bonnie Amos  wrote:

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> ---
> Hi all,
> We have been fumigating herbarium specimens by first stacking the specimens 
> in a plastic tub (usually Walmart specials), closing the tub with its 
> somewhat secure lid, then putting the filled tub in a heavy gauge plastic bag 
> which is tightly closed and then the entire unit is placed into the 
> ultracold. We allow the 24 hour thaw and have not had any problems with 
> internal condensation. I like using the tubs because they provide rigid 
> support and protection and they make it easier to handle, stack, and 
> transport specimens. Here is the part I am not so sure about. After thawing, 
> the tubs are moved into the pest-free herbarium and some specimens remain in 
> the tubs for several weeks before processing (we are a regional university 
> and depend on part-time student helpers). My question…are the closed tubs 
> providing pest protection to the specimens?
> Thanks,
> Bonnie Amos, Ph.D.
> Professor and Curator, Angelo State Natural History Collections, Herbarium
> Angelo State University
> ASU Station #10890
> Department of Biology
> San Angelo, TX 76909
> 
> (325) 486-6656
> bonnie.a...@angelo.edu
> Member, Texas Tech University System 
> 
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[pestlist] RE: Use of plastic tubs for fumigation and pest protection??

[Morgan, Amber]

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We've used bins to isolate materials from pests, and have been very happy with 
the Lock & Lock brand of bins.  We get them from Amazon, but I'm sure other 
suppliers carry them.  We like them because the lids actually have gaskets, 
unlike most plastic bins.  In the past, we've used some large Rubbermaid tubs 
and I noticed that over time the tub warped and I could fit my hand through the 
gap between the lid and the tub - so in some cases, these types of tubs don't 
provide a good seal.  Here's a link to the Lock & Lock containers if you're 
interested:  
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_kk_1?rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Alock+and+lock+food+storage+containers&keywords=lock+and+lock+food+storage+containers&ie=UTF8&qid=1346092166
You can also gasket containers yourself - personally I haven't done this so I 
don't have any better information about it, but I know it is possible.

Hope that's helpful.
Best regards,
Amber

the warhol:
Amber E. Morgan
Associate Registrar
117 Sandusky Street
Pittsburgh, PA 15212
T 412.237.8306
F 412.237.8340
E morg...@warhol.org
W www.warhol.org
The Andy Warhol Museum
One of the four Carnegie Museums of Pittsburgh
Email newsletter http://members.carnegiemuseums.org/email
Membership http://members.carnegiemuseums.org/SupportCMP
warhol: facebook | warhol: 
twitter




From: ad...@museumpests.net [mailto:ad...@museumpests.net] On Behalf Of 
Anderson, Gretchen
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 2:00 PM
To: pestlist@museumpests.net
Subject: [pestlist] RE: Use of plastic tubs for fumigation and pest protection??

Hi Bonnie,
Yes, If I am understanding you properly, the tightly sealed tubs should provide 
ongoing pest protection.  If you are not seeing any condensation then you are 
good.  It is a good use for the tubs.  I have used a similar materials  for 
microclimates for archaeological metals and found them to be very tight 
maintain a low RH for up to 5 years. (off subject - sorry).

Gretchen Anderson
Conservation, Carnegie Museum of Natural History

From: ad...@museumpests.net [mailto:ad...@museumpests.net] On Behalf Of Bonnie 
Amos
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 12:29 PM
To: pestlist@museumpests.net
Subject: [pestlist] Use of plastic tubs for fumigation and pest protection??

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Hi all,
We have been fumigating herbarium specimens by first stacking the specimens in 
a plastic tub (usually Walmart specials), closing the tub with its somewhat 
secure lid, then putting the filled tub in a heavy gauge plastic bag which is 
tightly closed and then the entire unit is placed into the ultracold. We allow 
the 24 hour thaw and have not had any problems with internal condensation. I 
like using the tubs because they provide rigid support and protection and they 
make it easier to handle, stack, and transport specimens. Here is the part I am 
not so sure about. After thawing, the tubs are moved into the pest-free 
herbarium and some specimens remain in the tubs for several weeks before 
processing (we are a regional university and depend on part-time student 
helpers). My question...are the closed tubs providing pest protection to the 
specimens?
Thanks,
Bonnie Amos, Ph.D.
Professor and Curator, Angelo State Natural History Collections, Herbarium
Angelo State University
ASU Station #10890
Department of Biology
San Angelo, TX 76909

(325) 486-6656
bonnie.a...@angelo.edu
Member, Texas Tech University System

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[pestlist] RE: Use of plastic tubs for fumigation and pest protection??

[Anderson, Gretchen]

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Hi Bonnie,
Yes, If I am understanding you properly, the tightly sealed tubs should provide 
ongoing pest protection.  If you are not seeing any condensation then you are 
good.  It is a good use for the tubs.  I have used a similar materials  for 
microclimates for archaeological metals and found them to be very tight 
maintain a low RH for up to 5 years. (off subject - sorry).

Gretchen Anderson
Conservation, Carnegie Museum of Natural History

From: ad...@museumpests.net [mailto:ad...@museumpests.net] On Behalf Of Bonnie 
Amos
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 12:29 PM
To: pestlist@museumpests.net
Subject: [pestlist] Use of plastic tubs for fumigation and pest protection??

This is a message from the Museumpests List.
To post to this list send it as an email to 
pestlist@museumpests.net
To unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
---
Hi all,
We have been fumigating herbarium specimens by first stacking the specimens in 
a plastic tub (usually Walmart specials), closing the tub with its somewhat 
secure lid, then putting the filled tub in a heavy gauge plastic bag which is 
tightly closed and then the entire unit is placed into the ultracold. We allow 
the 24 hour thaw and have not had any problems with internal condensation. I 
like using the tubs because they provide rigid support and protection and they 
make it easier to handle, stack, and transport specimens. Here is the part I am 
not so sure about. After thawing, the tubs are moved into the pest-free 
herbarium and some specimens remain in the tubs for several weeks before 
processing (we are a regional university and depend on part-time student 
helpers). My question...are the closed tubs providing pest protection to the 
specimens?
Thanks,
Bonnie Amos, Ph.D.
Professor and Curator, Angelo State Natural History Collections, Herbarium
Angelo State University
ASU Station #10890
Department of Biology
San Angelo, TX 76909

(325) 486-6656
bonnie.a...@angelo.edu
Member, Texas Tech University System

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Re: [pestlist] Defrosting

[Neil Carey]

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Thanks, Barb…

The Freezer is unpacked, and for the time being the objects are still in 
polyethylene pending treatment of the space. I am hoping that the freezing and 
defrosting caused no damage, but I will certainly report any. My concern is not 
regarding the actual wooden sculpture but the inlaid and attached metals and 
any encrusted sacrificial materials.

BTW, the two data loggers showed temps of about -35c warming to lower than -20c 
during defrost cycles. I brought the unit back to room temp over 24 hours at 10 
degree increments, and saw no evidence of in-bag condensation. I did however 
note some ponding of water along the lowest side of the freezer despite 
leveling it during installation. This points up another reason to carefully 
heat seal the polyethylene bags, or to use some other comparable method.

The shame is that all 300+ pieces are wrapped in tissue paper, and double 
bagged, but are not bubble wrapped for transport and storage. 

Neil Carey
 

On Aug 27, 2012, at 11:55 AM, Appelbaum & Himmelstein wrote:

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> ---
> I believe that many institutions keep the things they've frozen in the bags.  
> Given the use of collections, there may be no good reason to go through the 
> time and trouble of handling things, and the plastic bags will keep bugs out 
> as well as dust and gaseous pollutants, at least for a while.
> 
> I know that we chronic worriers (conservators, registrars, and collection 
> managers) are always looking for potential damage, but there are a lot of 
> things that aren't as bad as we might think.  RH issues often seem 
> troublesome, but when a hygroscopic item takes up most of the space in a 
> plastic bag, the controlling moisture is the moisture content of the item, 
> not the RH of the air.
> 
> Likewise, I think, with the possibility of thermal shock; it's a highly 
> unlikely problem.  It would help us if we could get reassurance about 
> potential problems that , so far, turn out OK.
> 
> Here's what I think we should do: make a concerted effort to report any 
> damage we have observed on this list, along with reports of large-scale 
> treatments - heat, cold, and anoxia - what kinds of objects were involved, 
> and what the outcome was.  Maybe someone can figure out a way to incorporate 
> such a thing on Museumpests.net.  I would guess that this dist list includes 
> a large proportion of the people who do this work and who make the effort to 
> examine the things after they have been treated.  The information shared in 
> this group is huge, and we should figure out as many ways as possible of 
> making it usable.  We need to know as much about good outcomes as bad ones.
> 
> Barbara Appelbaum
> 
> 
> On Aug 23, 2012, at 8:49 PM, Neil Carey wrote:
> 
>> This is a message from the Museumpests List.
>> To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net
>> To unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
>> ---
>> Since implementing IPM a month ago, we've been successfully freezing our 
>> ethnographic collection of mostly wooden African pieces, many with textile, 
>> feather, or metal attachments, at -30c. Thanks to the group for all their 
>> valuable input.
>> 
>> However, I don't recall any discussion about controlling the defrost cycle. 
>> Are there any special considerations? Off hand, I can think of the 
>> possibility of mold growth if an object is kept double wrapped in 
>> polyethylene after defrosting, despite being wrapped in tissue paper. Am I 
>> overly paranoid? Just how long should a controlled defrost take? Must the 
>> object be removed immediately? If not, how long can it go heat sealed in 
>> bags? It's not like anoxic treatment where a piece can just be kept inside 
>> its polypropylene bag forever. Any input?
>> 
>> Neil Carey
>> 
>> --
>> To send an email to the list, send your msg to pestlist@museumpests.Net
>> 
>> To unsubscribe from this list send an email to pestlist@museumpests.net and 
>> in the subject put:
>> "unsubscribe" - no quotes please.
>> 
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>> 
>> Any problems email l...@collectionpests.com or l...@zaks.com
>> 
> 
> Appelbaum & Himmelstein
> 444 Central Park West
> New York, NY  10025
> 212-666-4630 (voice)
> 212-316-1039 (fax)
> 

Re: [pestlist] heat treatment

[Rachael Arenstein]

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Unfortunately the original volunteer for the heat treatment section did not 
complete the assignment but we received something else over the summer 
which I hope to have ready for the site in the near future as there have 
been increasing questions about heat and thermo lignum treatments.

We are still eager for a case study from an institution that has performed 
heat treatments on collections.
Best,
Rachael
IPM Working Group Co-Chair

Rachael Perkins Arenstein
A.M. Art Conservation, LLC
917-796-1764
rach...@amartconservation.com
www.AMArtConservation.com




From: "Appelbaum & Himmelstein" 
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 12:11 PM
To: pestlist@museumpests.net
Subject: Re: [pestlist] heat treatment

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Many thanks.  Do you recall whether there ever was a section on this on 
Museumpests?
B



On Aug 26, 2012, at 4:54 PM, bugma...@aol.com wrote:

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Barbara -
 
The rule-of-thumb is 130 degrees Fahrenheit for 3 hours will kill any stage 
of any insect.  When pest management firms super heat a home for bed bugs, 
they leave the heat for the better part of the day to insure it reached 
that level in all materials and areas of the home.
 
When it comes to killing insects in wood, commercial kiln-drying of lumber 
only reaches about 108 to 115.  Often larvae in wood are not killed in the 
kiln because the wood is a good insulator.  I've been involved in 
powderpost beetle, wood-boring wasp larvae, and old house borer 
infestations in kiln-dried lumber, including hardwood flooring.
 
An easy method for items of lesser value, is to place a pan of water on the 
bottom rack of a kitchen oven in order to maintain high humidity in the 
oven.  Place the object directly onto an upper rack.  Then turn the oven to 
its "warm" setting, which usually is 170 degrees Fahrenheit.  Leave the 
object in for 3 hours and then turn the oven off, leaving the  object 
inside.  When the oven is cool, you can remove the object.
 
I've used this method for powderpost beetles in objects purchased by 
tourists in various countries.  It can probably also be used for certain 
kinds of fabrics made of natural materials.  I would not try it on 
synthetic fabrics; they might melt.
 
Tom Parker


-Original Message-
From: aandh 
To: pestlist 
Sent: Sun, Aug 26, 2012 3:33 pm
Subject: [pestlist] heat treatment


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---
For some reason, the "heat" part of the treatment section of 
Museumpests.net 
doesn't have any text attached.  Can someone give me the rule-of-thumb 
requirements for heat treatment of infestations?

Many thanks.
Barbara Appelbaum


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444 Central Park West
New York, NY  10025
212-666-4630 (voice)
212-316-1039 (fax)
aa...@mindspring.com

website: aandhconservation.org


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Re: [pestlist] heat treatment

[Appelbaum & Himmelstein]

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Great.  
B.

On Aug 27, 2012, at 12:23 PM, Kaplan, Emily wrote:

> This is a message from the Museumpests List.
> To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net
> To unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
> ---
> Hi,
> The fact sheet on heat treatments is in process. Will try to post it soon.
> In the meantime thanks Tom as always for contributing such good info so 
> quickly.
> Emily
> 
> 
> 
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 12:16 PM, "Appelbaum & Himmelstein" 
> mailto:aa...@mindspring.com>> wrote:
> 
> This is a message from the Museumpests List.
> To post to this list send it as an email to 
> pestlist@museumpests.net
> To unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
> ---
> Many thanks.  Do you recall whether there ever was a section on this on 
> Museumpests?
> B
> 
> 
> On Aug 26, 2012, at 4:54 PM, bugma...@aol.com wrote:
> 
> This is a message from the Museumpests List.
> To post to this list send it as an email to 
> pestlist@museumpests.net
> To unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
> ---
> Barbara -
> 
> The rule-of-thumb is 130 degrees Fahrenheit for 3 hours will kill any stage 
> of any insect.  When pest management firms super heat a home for bed bugs, 
> they leave the heat for the better part of the day to insure it reached that 
> level in all materials and areas of the home.
> 
> When it comes to killing insects in wood, commercial kiln-drying of lumber 
> only reaches about 108 to 115.  Often larvae in wood are not killed in the 
> kiln because the wood is a good insulator.  I've been involved in powderpost 
> beetle, wood-boring wasp larvae, and old house borer infestations in 
> kiln-dried lumber, including hardwood flooring.
> 
> An easy method for items of lesser value, is to place a pan of water on the 
> bottom rack of a kitchen oven in order to maintain high humidity in the oven. 
>  Place the object directly onto an upper rack.  Then turn the oven to its 
> "warm" setting, which usually is 170 degrees Fahrenheit.  Leave the object in 
> for 3 hours and then turn the oven off, leaving the  object inside.  When the 
> oven is cool, you can remove the object.
> 
> I've used this method for powderpost beetles in objects purchased by tourists 
> in various countries.  It can probably also be used for certain kinds of 
> fabrics made of natural materials.  I would not try it on synthetic fabrics; 
> they might melt.
> 
> Tom Parker
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: aandh mailto:aa...@mindspring.com>>
> To: pestlist mailto:pestlist@museumpests.net>>
> Sent: Sun, Aug 26, 2012 3:33 pm
> Subject: [pestlist] heat treatment
> 
> 
> This is a message from the Museumpests List.
> To post to this list send it as an email to 
> pestlist@museumpests.net
> To unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
> ---
> For some reason, the "heat" part of the treatment section of 
> Museumpests.net
> doesn't have any text attached.  Can someone give me the rule-of-thumb
> requirements for heat treatment of infestations?
> 
> Many thanks.
> Barbara Appelbaum
> 
> 
> --
> To send an email to the list, send your msg to 
> pestlist@museumpests.Net
> 
> To unsubscribe from this list send an email to 
> pestlist@museumpests.net and in
> the subject put:
> "unsubscribe" - no quotes please.
> 
> You are receiving the Pestlist emails in standard mode.
> To change to the DIGEST mode send an
> email to imail...@museumpests.net with this 
> command in the body:
> 
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> 
> Any problems email l...@collectionpests.com 
> or l...@zaks.com
> 
> 
> 
> --
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> pestlist@museumpests.Net
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> To unsubscribe from this list send an email to 
> pestlist@museumpests.net and in the subject 
> put:
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Re: [pestlist] heat treatment

[Kaplan, Emily]

This is a message from the Museumpests List.
To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net
To unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
---
Hi,
The fact sheet on heat treatments is in process. Will try to post it soon.
In the meantime thanks Tom as always for contributing such good info so quickly.
Emily



On Aug 27, 2012, at 12:16 PM, "Appelbaum & Himmelstein" 
mailto:aa...@mindspring.com>> wrote:

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To post to this list send it as an email to 
pestlist@museumpests.net
To unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
---
Many thanks.  Do you recall whether there ever was a section on this on 
Museumpests?
B


On Aug 26, 2012, at 4:54 PM, bugma...@aol.com wrote:

This is a message from the Museumpests List.
To post to this list send it as an email to 
pestlist@museumpests.net
To unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
---
Barbara -

The rule-of-thumb is 130 degrees Fahrenheit for 3 hours will kill any stage of 
any insect.  When pest management firms super heat a home for bed bugs, they 
leave the heat for the better part of the day to insure it reached that level 
in all materials and areas of the home.

When it comes to killing insects in wood, commercial kiln-drying of lumber only 
reaches about 108 to 115.  Often larvae in wood are not killed in the kiln 
because the wood is a good insulator.  I've been involved in powderpost beetle, 
wood-boring wasp larvae, and old house borer infestations in kiln-dried lumber, 
including hardwood flooring.

An easy method for items of lesser value, is to place a pan of water on the 
bottom rack of a kitchen oven in order to maintain high humidity in the oven.  
Place the object directly onto an upper rack.  Then turn the oven to its "warm" 
setting, which usually is 170 degrees Fahrenheit.  Leave the object in for 3 
hours and then turn the oven off, leaving the  object inside.  When the oven is 
cool, you can remove the object.

I've used this method for powderpost beetles in objects purchased by tourists 
in various countries.  It can probably also be used for certain kinds of 
fabrics made of natural materials.  I would not try it on synthetic fabrics; 
they might melt.

Tom Parker


-Original Message-
From: aandh mailto:aa...@mindspring.com>>
To: pestlist mailto:pestlist@museumpests.net>>
Sent: Sun, Aug 26, 2012 3:33 pm
Subject: [pestlist] heat treatment


This is a message from the Museumpests List.
To post to this list send it as an email to 
pestlist@museumpests.net
To unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
---
For some reason, the "heat" part of the treatment section of 
Museumpests.net
doesn't have any text attached.  Can someone give me the rule-of-thumb
requirements for heat treatment of infestations?

Many thanks.
Barbara Appelbaum


--
To send an email to the list, send your msg to 
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command in the body:

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l...@zaks.com



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Appelbaum & Himmelstein
444 Central Park West
New York, NY  10025
212-666-4630 (voice)
212-316-1039 (fax)
aa...@mindspring.com
website: aandhconservation.org






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Re: [pestlist] heat treatment

[Appelbaum & Himmelstein]

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To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net
To unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
---
Many thanks.  Do you recall whether there ever was a section on this on 
Museumpests?
B


On Aug 26, 2012, at 4:54 PM, bugma...@aol.com wrote:

> This is a message from the Museumpests List.
> To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net
> To unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
> ---
> Barbara -
>  
> The rule-of-thumb is 130 degrees Fahrenheit for 3 hours will kill any stage 
> of any insect.  When pest management firms super heat a home for bed bugs, 
> they leave the heat for the better part of the day to insure it reached that 
> level in all materials and areas of the home.
>  
> When it comes to killing insects in wood, commercial kiln-drying of lumber 
> only reaches about 108 to 115.  Often larvae in wood are not killed in the 
> kiln because the wood is a good insulator.  I've been involved in powderpost 
> beetle, wood-boring wasp larvae, and old house borer infestations in 
> kiln-dried lumber, including hardwood flooring.
>  
> An easy method for items of lesser value, is to place a pan of water on the 
> bottom rack of a kitchen oven in order to maintain high humidity in the oven. 
>  Place the object directly onto an upper rack.  Then turn the oven to its 
> "warm" setting, which usually is 170 degrees Fahrenheit.  Leave the object in 
> for 3 hours and then turn the oven off, leaving the  object inside.  When the 
> oven is cool, you can remove the object.
>  
> I've used this method for powderpost beetles in objects purchased by tourists 
> in various countries.  It can probably also be used for certain kinds of 
> fabrics made of natural materials.  I would not try it on synthetic fabrics; 
> they might melt.
>  
> Tom Parker
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: aandh 
> To: pestlist 
> Sent: Sun, Aug 26, 2012 3:33 pm
> Subject: [pestlist] heat treatment
> 
> This is a message from the Museumpests List.
> To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net
> To unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
> ---
> For some reason, the "heat" part of the treatment section of Museumpests.net 
> doesn't have any text attached.  Can someone give me the rule-of-thumb 
> requirements for heat treatment of infestations?
> 
> Many thanks.
> Barbara Appelbaum
> 
> 
> --
> To send an email to the list, send your msg to pestlist@museumpests.Net
> 
> To unsubscribe from this list send an email to pestlist@museumpests.net and 
> in 
> the subject put:
> "unsubscribe" - no quotes please.
> 
> You are receiving the Pestlist emails in standard mode.
> To change to the DIGEST mode send an 
> email to imail...@museumpests.net with this command in the body:
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> --
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> "unsubscribe" - no quotes please.
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Appelbaum & Himmelstein
444 Central Park West
New York, NY  10025
212-666-4630 (voice)
212-316-1039 (fax)
aa...@mindspring.com
website: aandhconservation.org







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[pestlist] mysterious moth

[Mina, Laura]

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For a bit on Monday mystery and levity:

http://karlshuker.blogspot.com/2012/08/mystery-of-venezuelan-poodle-moth-have.html

 

(apologies for the off-topic post)


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Re: [pestlist] Defrosting

[Appelbaum & Himmelstein]

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---
I believe that many institutions keep the things they've frozen in the bags.  
Given the use of collections, there may be no good reason to go through the 
time and trouble of handling things, and the plastic bags will keep bugs out as 
well as dust and gaseous pollutants, at least for a while.

I know that we chronic worriers (conservators, registrars, and collection 
managers) are always looking for potential damage, but there are a lot of 
things that aren't as bad as we might think.  RH issues often seem troublesome, 
but when a hygroscopic item takes up most of the space in a plastic bag, the 
controlling moisture is the moisture content of the item, not the RH of the air.

Likewise, I think, with the possibility of thermal shock; it's a highly 
unlikely problem.  It would help us if we could get reassurance about potential 
problems that , so far, turn out OK.

Here's what I think we should do: make a concerted effort to report any damage 
we have observed on this list, along with reports of large-scale treatments - 
heat, cold, and anoxia - what kinds of objects were involved, and what the 
outcome was.  Maybe someone can figure out a way to incorporate such a thing on 
Museumpests.net.  I would guess that this dist list includes a large proportion 
of the people who do this work and who make the effort to examine the things 
after they have been treated.  The information shared in this group is huge, 
and we should figure out as many ways as possible of making it usable.  We need 
to know as much about good outcomes as bad ones.

Barbara Appelbaum


On Aug 23, 2012, at 8:49 PM, Neil Carey wrote:

> This is a message from the Museumpests List.
> To post to this list send it as an email to pestlist@museumpests.net
> To unsubscribe please look at the footer of this email.
> ---
> Since implementing IPM a month ago, we've been successfully freezing our 
> ethnographic collection of mostly wooden African pieces, many with textile, 
> feather, or metal attachments, at -30c. Thanks to the group for all their 
> valuable input.
> 
> However, I don't recall any discussion about controlling the defrost cycle. 
> Are there any special considerations? Off hand, I can think of the 
> possibility of mold growth if an object is kept double wrapped in 
> polyethylene after defrosting, despite being wrapped in tissue paper. Am I 
> overly paranoid? Just how long should a controlled defrost take? Must the 
> object be removed immediately? If not, how long can it go heat sealed in 
> bags? It's not like anoxic treatment where a piece can just be kept inside 
> its polypropylene bag forever. Any input?
> 
> Neil Carey
> 
> --
> To send an email to the list, send your msg to pestlist@museumpests.Net
> 
> To unsubscribe from this list send an email to pestlist@museumpests.net and 
> in the subject put:
> "unsubscribe" - no quotes please.
> 
> You are receiving the Pestlist emails in standard mode.
> To change to the DIGEST mode send an 
> email to imail...@museumpests.net with this command in the body:
> 
> set mode digest pestlist
> 
> Any problems email l...@collectionpests.com or l...@zaks.com
> 

Appelbaum & Himmelstein
444 Central Park West
New York, NY  10025
212-666-4630 (voice)
212-316-1039 (fax)
aa...@mindspring.com
website: aandhconservation.org







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