Re: [RBW] Re: The Insanity of our Times
on 4/18/10 9:19 PM, Me at clotht...@gmail.com wrote: You're welcome, Bill [how are you by the way?]. And yes, I am Scott Cutshall [=Me]. And to the one poster who found it funny: no, it's not a screenplay but I do wish it was, because I find it all very sad. PS- if it is too far Off-Topic for the Group, -again-, Jim can pull the whole schebang off. Dang. I take one afternoon off and we're wy out here on the topic spectrum ;^) It is demonstrably off-topic. No question about that one. It is also one of those things you read and just stop and wonder over and ponder about. Which makes me a bit loathe to delete it. It's just a staggeringly sad tale. All of those involved need some help. It makes me appreciate more the people who have to work in places like that and see things this bad and worse. I appreciate the fact that so many people were able to not comment about it. There's not a lot to say, certainly nothing we're going to solve here. But stories like this always help me to distill once again the people I'm lucky enough to know and have known, who continue to - or just once very tangentially such that maybe they didn't even know it - help with support, advice and deed. GooGroups won't let me lock a thread. So, if it keeps accumulating comments, I'll end up deleting it. Maybe I'll post it into the pages section, which will effectively static-ize it. Please do not take this as tacit approval for non-Riv threads and topics. - Jim / List Admin -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Send In Your Photos! - Here's how: http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines Nigel did some work for some of the other riders at Allied, onces who still rode metal. He hadn't liked it when Chevette had gone for a paper frame. -- William Gibson, Virtual Light -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: The Insanity of our Times
Jim- Sorry to place you in a quandary with the topic and post. Didn't mean to do that at all. Guess, in the end, what I was shooting for was basically 2 things: 1. How crazy things can be and are 'out there', and to that end, looking within ourselves at the variations in our own lives that either contribute to that/or help reduce it. 2. To never take any 'thing' for granted in what ever apples we have in our baskets collectively vs. the ones that spilled [got away] out along the way. Again, sorry for the Off-Topic'ness of my topic. Back to my batcave... -Scott On Apr 18, 11:27 pm, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote: on 4/18/10 9:19 PM, Me at clotht...@gmail.com wrote: You're welcome, Bill [how are you by the way?]. And yes, I am Scott Cutshall [=Me]. And to the one poster who found it funny: no, it's not a screenplay but I do wish it was, because I find it all very sad. PS- if it is too far Off-Topic for the Group, -again-, Jim can pull the whole schebang off. Dang. I take one afternoon off and we're wy out here on the topic spectrum ;^) It is demonstrably off-topic. No question about that one. It is also one of those things you read and just stop and wonder over and ponder about. Which makes me a bit loathe to delete it. It's just a staggeringly sad tale. All of those involved need some help. It makes me appreciate more the people who have to work in places like that and see things this bad and worse. I appreciate the fact that so many people were able to not comment about it. There's not a lot to say, certainly nothing we're going to solve here. But stories like this always help me to distill once again the people I'm lucky enough to know and have known, who continue to - or just once very tangentially such that maybe they didn't even know it - help with support, advice and deed. GooGroups won't let me lock a thread. So, if it keeps accumulating comments, I'll end up deleting it. Maybe I'll post it into the pages section, which will effectively static-ize it. Please do not take this as tacit approval for non-Riv threads and topics. - Jim / List Admin -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Send In Your Photos! - Here's how:http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines Nigel did some work for some of the other riders at Allied, onces who still rode metal. He hadn't liked it when Chevette had gone for a paper frame. -- William Gibson, Virtual Light -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: The Insanity of our Times
I agree. I appreciate Scott posting it, despite the sadness. I want to clarify that when I said I agreed things got far off-topic, I was referring to the subsequent stream of the discussion and not Scott's original posting. I too am glad that Scott posted it. Sorry for any confusion. -Jim W. -Original Message- From: Esteban proto...@gmail.com Sent: Apr 19, 2010 1:50 AM To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Subject: [RBW] Re: The Insanity of our Times Grant's written about fitness and sensibility. Rivendell's riding philosophy runs against extremes - x-treme training and extreme eating. This story is instructive. Esteban San Diego, Calif. On Apr 18, 9:19 pm, Me clotht...@gmail.com wrote: You're welcome, Bill [how are you by the way?]. And yes, I am Scott Cutshall [=Me]. And to the one poster who found it funny: no, it's not a screenplay but I do wish it was, because I find it all very sad. PS- if it is too far Off-Topic for the Group, -again-, Jim can pull the whole schebang off. -Scott On Apr 18, 8:09 pm, Bill Connell bconn...@gmail.com wrote: It is Scott, he signed his name. It's a really sad story, and i can only imagine how hard it would be for his wife to not say anything about Scott's experience with his weight. People have to choose change for themselves, but when there are enablers and ignorance of the alternatives in life, a little window to a different world can make all the difference. It makes me sad to think of all the lost options in their lives when someone's weight gets so high. Thanks for sharing, Scott. Bill On Sun, Apr 18, 2010 at 9:51 PM, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote: FYI - I think Me is Scott, but maybe I am off On Apr 18, 4:45 pm, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote: On Apr 18, 2010, at 4:37 PM, Shaun Meehan wrote: It's interesting. I've seen a couple of shows about people who got so large that they were literally disabled. I've known a number of them professionally, in their 30s and living in a nursing home due to the health complications of ultra-morbid obesity. And probably not going to make it to 50. It makes Scott Cutshall's story all the more impressive to me. This person's mother was clearly out of touch with the situation and was quite literally feeding him to death. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- Bill Connell St. Paul, MN -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Hunqa inspired Surly
Have you seen these Surly big tires: http://istanbultea.smugmug.com/photos/swfpopup.mg?AlbumID=11827996AlbumKey=FnoNC -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Cantilever Brake issue on Hillborne
Thanks. Good to know that. I do not particularly like the feel of the V-brakes with the travel agents, but they work well with no adjustment issues. Every time I get close to ordering a set of cantilevers one of these threads comes up and I back off. I have no experience with cantis and do not have any lying around in spare parts, so I will have to order before giving them a try. David Earl Grey wrote: I am not using a daruma because my plastic Berthoud/SKS fenders have a riveted L-bracket. I don't think the fork crown on the 650B Sams is different. It's just that the Tektro fork crown cable hanger is very thick (it needs to be very stiff). Gernot On Apr 18, 8:44 pm, carnerda...@bellsouth.net carnerda...@bellsouth.net wrote: I may have missed this before, but is there a reason you have not tried the fork crown daruma? Also, for those who have or are considering 650B Sam Hillbornes, the fork crown dimensions must be different. I have a Nitto mini rack on my 52 and the bolt is long enough to fit a spacer on the front and a thick washer on the back. http://www.flickr.com/photos/carner/4504006453/ Cannot be sure since I am using V-brakes, but looks like there would be room for the fork crown hanger and the L-bracket. David Earl Grey wrote: I have a 56cm SH with 720 Tektros: with the Tektro forkcrown-mounted cable stop, no problems. Switched to a headset-mounted stop (to install Nitto front rack and fenders), squeal (but no shudder), regardless of toe-in settings with stock pads. Switched to VO squeal- free pads, no problems, regardless of toe-in position. I highly recommend the forkcrown-mounted cable hanger, if your setup can accommodate it (if you have a Nitto mini front and a fender that mounts to the rack bolt with an L-bracket, adding the cable hanger doesn't work on my Sam because the Nitto bolt (integral to the rack) is just a bit too short. Without the fender, I could just make it work, but with the fender, no dice). Seehttp://www.flickr.com/photos/25150...@n08/4426738206/ for the cable forkcrown-mounted hanger. Gernot On Apr 18, 12:38 am, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote: Second what he said, and go through the standards: Clean the rims with alchohol, some even sand them lightly. If that does not do it try lightly sanding or filing the pads to clean them as well. Next stop is Pauls or V-Brakes. I went through this with my Cross-check, but the judder was at all speeds, as set of mini-v brakes brought it almost to a omplete stop, but I was so tired of fiddling with it I sold the bike and bought the Rawland with discs. The stud slop is only one weak link in the system, and I believe it helps to magnify every other weak spot in the system. The other possibility is that with the wide profile and High cable they may be too powerful. Sounds hard to swallow, but I can make the fork hop on the rawland with discs. Watch the front wheel closely when you are doing this and see if it is spinning in a stop start kind of a thing or locked up and hopping along like a pogo stick. Rob On Apr 17, 10:22 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote: on 4/17/10 9:51 AM, MikeC at mecinib...@sbcglobal.net wrote: I find it strange that some SH owners have this issue while others have not had an issue. My pads were installed flush, but they are koolstop MTB pads with the the designed to provide tow-in automatically. I get no squeal just the low-speed shudder. I will look into pad angle. Pad angle will definitely cause that issue. I've had that happen with and without accompanying squawking. The Kool Stops also tend to bite a newer rim a lot better than most pads. New pads + New rims = shudder, IME. I've never been able to run the KS pads flush. Always put a touch o' toe-in on them. I'd also just double-check that the housing endcap is not moving in the hanger, and that there's no gap when the housing runs into the brake lever itself. I am using the max straddle cable height allowed by the stock cable that came with the CR720's. I will try increasing the spring tension. Photo anywhere? - J -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net One Cog - Zero Excuses L/S T-shirt - Now availablehttp://www.cyclofiend.com/stuff Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Send In Your Photos! - Here's how:http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. --
[RBW] Re: Bombadil @ Tierra Bella 35 mile ride - shellaced bars and creaky sounds...
The fix I'm familiar with is actually the opposite - either slightly tightening the headset That is the one I tried. I found out that I can ride no hands at about 15 mph, and if I tap my handlebars by the bend and knock them sideways slightly, my bike will start shimmying. Not a dangerous shimmy at that speed, but interesting to observe. On Apr 18, 10:12 pm, Jim M. mather...@gmail.com wrote: Nice bike! I've heard that a good orthotic can help with the Morton's. Me too. Unfortunately, I have had a Morton's Neuroma for 15 years. Luckily, it only hurts after I ride. Then if I massage the area firmly(parallel to my toes), I get relief. Any extreme forefoot bending with applied pressure aggravates mine--like when standing and climbing. I've heard the orthotics have little raised pads that slot between your bones to keep your toe bones from pressing together. I have been meaning to try some of those orthotics. I imagine a stiff soled cycling shoe would also help spread the pressure over the entire forefoot. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
RE: [RBW] Lugged! Proper fork bend! 650B! Fenders! Fattish Tires! Riv-ish!
Yes those are prototype tires not production models - Pacenti said they would be available in May. Sorry you don't see the reason for this sort of construction - I built the bike for myself, nobody else. Yes it does weigh 21 pounds Regards, Bruce Gordon www.bgcycles.com http://www.bgcycles.com/ brucegordoncycles.blogspot.com _ From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of carnerda...@bellsouth.net Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 6:52 PM To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [RBW] Lugged! Proper fork bend! 650B! Fenders! Fattish Tires! Riv-ish! Are those tires prototypes or production versions? PATRICK MOORE wrote: http://www.flickr.com/photos/23259...@n05/4526924426/in/set-7215762374704565 9/ Cross-posted from the Frame list. I don't see a reason for this sort of construction, except as a craftman's tour de force (as opposed to his tour de france), but man, I'd ride it in a Rivendell minute! IIRC, BG claimed 21 lb for the bike as pictured. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Cantilever Brake issue on Hillborne
When I got my Sam, I tried to install the Shimano BR550 cantis from my Indy Fab, and I almost couldn't get them on because the bushings were too tight. I then put on the Tektro 720s, and they were loose. So perhaps try a different set of cantis to see if you can get a tighter fit. But the Tektros do work fine for me (see earlier post). Cheers, Gernot On Apr 17, 6:03 am, MikeC mecinib...@sbcglobal.net wrote: I have a Sam Hill with Tektro CR720's. They have a brass bushing that pivots on the canti post. There is a lot of play in the pivot due to the bushing being larger in diameter and shorter in length than the post, which means it can wobble back and forth and side ways. It does not pose a problem when braking at moderate to high speed, but when slowing to a stop at low speed, like coasting with the brakes on into the driveway at a few MPH, the fork shutters almost uncontrollably. This is a 60 cm SH so the cable stops is way above the brakes due to the long headtube, but the issues is mostly slop in the pivots more so than the issue that Leonard Zinn referred to due to th ecable stop being way above the brakes. Have any other SH owners run into this problem. I would imagine that other Rivendell owners would also experience this assuming that the same canti posts are likely used on all models. Any suggestions on how to improve the situation, preferrably by reducing play at the pivots. Otherwise, I really like the CR720 cantis with Kool Stop salmon pads. Mike C. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Lugged! Proper fork bend! 650B! Fenders! Fattish Tires! Riv-ish!
Yes those are prototype tires not production models - Pacenti said they would be available in May. But get your order in soon! My understanding is the first run is near to sold out if not sold out already. Sorry you don't see the reason for this sort of construction - I built the bike for myself, nobody else. The rest of us may never get the chance to ride this beaut but we have the opportunity to see it. What did Keats say? Beauty is truth, truth beauty. If it works for a Grecian urn, it works for a beautiful bike. On Apr 19, 9:50 am, Bruce Gordon bgcyc...@svn.net wrote: Yes those are prototype tires not production models - Pacenti said they would be available in May. Sorry you don't see the reason for this sort of construction - I built the bike for myself, nobody else. Yes it does weigh 21 pounds Regards, Bruce Gordon www.bgcycles.comhttp://www.bgcycles.com/ brucegordoncycles.blogspot.com _ From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of carnerda...@bellsouth.net Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 6:52 PM To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [RBW] Lugged! Proper fork bend! 650B! Fenders! Fattish Tires! Riv-ish! Are those tires prototypes or production versions? PATRICK MOORE wrote: http://www.flickr.com/photos/23259...@n05/4526924426/in/set-721576237... 9/ Cross-posted from the Frame list. I don't see a reason for this sort of construction, except as a craftman's tour de force (as opposed to his tour de france), but man, I'd ride it in a Rivendell minute! IIRC, BG claimed 21 lb for the bike as pictured. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Cantilever Brake issue on Hillborne
On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 6:03 PM, MikeC mecinib...@sbcglobal.net wrote: I have a Sam Hill with Tektro CR720's. They have a brass bushing that pivots on the canti post. There is a lot of play in the pivot due to the bushing being larger in diameter and shorter in length than the post, which means it can wobble back and forth and side ways. It does not pose a problem when braking at moderate to high speed, but when slowing to a stop at low speed, like coasting with the brakes on into the driveway at a few MPH, the fork shutters almost uncontrollably. This is a 60 cm SH so the cable stops is way above the brakes due to the long headtube, but the issues is mostly slop in the pivots more so than the issue that Leonard Zinn referred to due to th ecable stop being way above the brakes. Have any other SH owners run into this problem. I would imagine that other Rivendell owners would also experience this assuming that the same canti posts are likely used on all models. Any suggestions on how to improve the situation, preferrably by reducing play at the pivots. Otherwise, I really like the CR720 cantis with Kool Stop salmon pads. I don't have a SH, but i've had some of the same sort of shudder on my Crosscheck with the same 720 cantis installed. It's been a while since i installed them, i can't remember if they're a loose fit on those canti studs. It seems to happen more in the wet for me, and it seems like it might be worse when i have my Shimano generator-hubbed wheel installed, but that could be my imagination. Overall it hasn't bothered me enough to change things, but i don't think i have much toe-in on the front, and a bit more would likely fix it. -- Bill Connell St. Paul, MN -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Cantilever Brake issue on Hillborne
I went with the Paul Touring canti's on my Hillborne. They've worked superbly since day one, no squeal or shudder. I would highly recommend them. I also use a headset hanger with the Soma ( Tektro) levers. ~Mike~ On Apr 19, 8:20 am, Bill Connell bconn...@gmail.com wrote: On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 6:03 PM, MikeC mecinib...@sbcglobal.net wrote: I have a Sam Hill with Tektro CR720's. They have a brass bushing that pivots on the canti post. There is a lot of play in the pivot due to the bushing being larger in diameter and shorter in length than the post, which means it can wobble back and forth and side ways. It does not pose a problem when braking at moderate to high speed, but when slowing to a stop at low speed, like coasting with the brakes on into the driveway at a few MPH, the fork shutters almost uncontrollably. This is a 60 cm SH so the cable stops is way above the brakes due to the long headtube, but the issues is mostly slop in the pivots more so than the issue that Leonard Zinn referred to due to th ecable stop being way above the brakes. Have any other SH owners run into this problem. I would imagine that other Rivendell owners would also experience this assuming that the same canti posts are likely used on all models. Any suggestions on how to improve the situation, preferrably by reducing play at the pivots. Otherwise, I really like the CR720 cantis with Kool Stop salmon pads. I don't have a SH, but i've had some of the same sort of shudder on my Crosscheck with the same 720 cantis installed. It's been a while since i installed them, i can't remember if they're a loose fit on those canti studs. It seems to happen more in the wet for me, and it seems like it might be worse when i have my Shimano generator-hubbed wheel installed, but that could be my imagination. Overall it hasn't bothered me enough to change things, but i don't think i have much toe-in on the front, and a bit more would likely fix it. -- Bill Connell St. Paul, MN -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Hunqa inspired Surly
Yeah, the Pugsley is pretty awesome. I almost as obsessive about Surly products as I am Rivendell. I actually saw Scoot (Me) riding that bike in Sellwood a few weeks back. I wished I had also been on my bike and talked to him about it. They're unique and impressive bikes. There was a piece about the Pugsley in the RR a few issues back. --mike -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Hilsen and tire clearance.
On Apr 18, 10:53 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote: I do ride my JB greens off-road, though they are less fun than my 42mm IRC Mythos XC Slicks. Have gotten one pinch flat on a high speed descend on a gravel road with sharp fist-sized rocks, running around 35-40 psi with a bike+rider weight of 210 lbs. Gernot I think there are plenty of riders who can get by riding JB greens off road. Mark at Rivendell does and I think Cyclofiend has too. I weigh 190 and am magnetically drawn to every rut, rock, root and bad line when pedaling off road so it's just not a good idea for me. Then again, I've ridden 28s off road at times. It's really nice to have a bike the Hilsen or SH that provides lots of options. I need to get out for a ride soon. It's supposed to rain this afternoon and my fenders aren't on the bike! --mike -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Heavy rider wheel issues
Hi, all. I seek counsel. I weigh about 250 lbs. I often carry 10-15 lbs on a rear rack. I ride a Trek hybrid, sitting bolt-upright. (By the way, this Trek is about as Riv'd up as any Trek could be. Actual Riv relevance: Later this year I'll also be riding a Hillborne and any counsel I receive will apply to it for sure; maybe/maybe-not for the Trek. Also, the riding I do is very much non-clubby, non-race-y, and non-trivial in distance; this seems to match up with Riv philosophy and thus seems appropriate for this group.) I use 700x35 tires on 32- or 36-spoke wheels at about 60 psi. I ride 70-100 miles/week 12 months a year (I bet that'll rise when I get the Hillborne), over half on limestone trail. I'm actually pretty easy on the bike in general, avoiding obstacles/rough path where practical, lifting the wheel and slowing down when I don't avoid the hazard. My problem is that I haven't gotten more than 1000 miles on any rear wheel without complete failure (cracked hub, bent axle) or the need for repair (hub overhaul, multiple spoke breakage, rim *way* out-of- true-or-round). The wheels I've used include some cheapies and some good ones. Some were better to use than others. But all were okay to use (until they failed :( ). More wheel details later. My preliminary question is: should I simply expect to have these problems every thousand (or two) miles? That is, will I likely have problems like these at that rate no matter *what* wheel I have? If so, then my plan will likely be to go for a value proposition instead of a reliability one. That is, I'll settle with a cheap wheel, always having a backup, knowing that I'll have to replace/repair/adjust more often than I'd like. That'd be okay, I guess... though it seems wrong in some profound way; after all, I've literally never *had* to replace any of my non-Pasela tires. I've put at least 3000 miles on my most recent set and still *could* use the originals the Trek came with. (I went through 4 Paselas in short order, with all of them failing in the same way with a sidewall eruption. Too bad. I liked the gum sidewall look.) However, if these wheel problems are avoidable (yes, yes... I know... losing 80-90 pounds would go a long way; let's assume that's not happening short-term), what kind of wheel will avoid them? Wheels I've used thus far include: --- Shimano RM60 (Alivio-ish?) hub / 32 2|1.8|2mm spokes / cheapish Alex rim - lasted about 1000 miles before breaking spokes, eventually on 3 rides in a row --- 105 hub / 36 2mm spokes / Sun CR18 rim - lasted maybe a little over 1000 miles before 4 holes-worth of drive-side hub snapped off of the hub body --- Deore hub / 32 2mm spokes / Sun CR18 rim - lasted maybe 400 miles before breaking spokes on 3 or 4 rides in a row (had 2 of these on the the theory that the first one was not prepped properly... 2nd one was no different with prep) - eventually I bent an axle on one of these, the other one (having been re-laced and re-trued and overhauled) is now my snow/ice wheel and will see little mileage --- XT hub / 36 2|1.7|2mm spokes / Velocity Synergy OC rim - lasted around 1000 miles before periodic ka-tink ka-tink noise appeared in the hub; am currently looking into whether this is a fatal problem or simply a maintenance issue Now, if the current XT-hubbed wheel's problems turn out to be readily solvable (adjustment of bearings, regreasing, something like that) then I'm happy to stay with this kind of wheel. The spokes seem to maintain tension reasonably well and the rim has only minor touch-up every few hundred miles to keep it very true and round. I like the fact that the drive-side spokes are not *that* much more tight than the non-drive side because of the asymmetry. However, if it turns out that it *is* a fatal or unacceptably-severe problem (and surely one can appreciate my pessimism on this matter), I wonder: What sort of wheel do I need? I don't want to needlessly ride a wheel with 48 spokes and a 3 pound hub (exaggerating, perhaps... but still... you get the point). But I will ride a 48-spoke-3-pound-hub-wheel if that's the only way to avoid these problems. Nor do I want to pay $500+ if a $200 wheel will give me a reasonable level of reliability with reasonable ride quality. Let's assume for argument's sake that I would be willing to go for the $500+ wheel if it would be expected to simply work (and work well, of course) for 1000s of miles with only normal maintenance-type service. Help? Thoughts? Musings? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Heavy rider wheel issues
On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 10:02 AM, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net wrote: My problem is that I haven't gotten more than 1000 miles on any rear wheel without complete failure (cracked hub, bent axle) or the need for repair (hub overhaul, multiple spoke breakage, rim *way* out-of- true-or-round). My preliminary question is: should I simply expect to have these problems every thousand (or two) miles? No. No, absolutely not. Tandem couples whose total weight is more than 250, and who do loaded touring, ride thousands of miles on wheels without even a re-true. Buy a decent wheel (Rich at Riv makes good ones) and forget about it. You will not notice the miniscule weight penalty of a stronger wheel. -- -- Anne Paulson My hovercraft is full of eels -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues
I weigh 220 and don't have the problems you mention so you should be able to find something. I ride a lot of SS mtb on a rigid bike in rougher conditions that you describe. The wheels Rich Lesnik built for me have been bombproof (White hub and Stan's rim -- not really applicable to what you have in mind). I think the XT hub and Synergy rim should be sufficient but here are some thoughts. 1. Who built the wheel? A good wheel builder, like Rich at Riv, can produce a far superior wheel than what you can buy off the shelf. And you might benefit from heavier gauge spokes than what you have. A custom built rear wheel from Rich will cost less than $500. And if you send him your current hub and rim to rebuild, it's a lot cheaper than that. 2. You could try an off-set rim like the Synergy OC to help strengthen it, though I also like the Mavic 719 as a tough rim. 3. If you can fit fatter tires, get something like a Marathon Supreme in 700x42. jim m wc ca On Apr 19, 10:02 am, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net wrote: Hi, all. I seek counsel. I weigh about 250 lbs. I often carry 10-15 lbs on a rear rack. I ride a Trek hybrid, sitting bolt-upright. (By the way, this Trek is about -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues
Hopefully your current XT hub is going to be OK. But if not, after so many rear-hub failures, especially the kind you're describing, I'd recommend going to 40H at a minimum or 48H ideally.I understand your hesitation in spending $500 on a rear wheel, but it seems, with hubs anyway, there are some real advantages to shelling out the extra money for something good. For example, Phil Wood hubs have a really solid reputation for being easily serviceable and lasting indefinitely.I don't have one myself, but if I were having a recurring problem with rear hubs I'd definitely buy one. On Apr 19, 1:02 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net wrote: Hi, all. I seek counsel. I weigh about 250 lbs. I often carry 10-15 lbs on a rear rack. I ride a Trek hybrid, sitting bolt-upright. (By the way, this Trek is about as Riv'd up as any Trek could be. Actual Riv relevance: Later this year I'll also be riding a Hillborne and any counsel I receive will apply to it for sure; maybe/maybe-not for the Trek. Also, the riding I do is very much non-clubby, non-race-y, and non-trivial in distance; this seems to match up with Riv philosophy and thus seems appropriate for this group.) I use 700x35 tires on 32- or 36-spoke wheels at about 60 psi. I ride 70-100 miles/week 12 months a year (I bet that'll rise when I get the Hillborne), over half on limestone trail. I'm actually pretty easy on the bike in general, avoiding obstacles/rough path where practical, lifting the wheel and slowing down when I don't avoid the hazard. My problem is that I haven't gotten more than 1000 miles on any rear wheel without complete failure (cracked hub, bent axle) or the need for repair (hub overhaul, multiple spoke breakage, rim *way* out-of- true-or-round). The wheels I've used include some cheapies and some good ones. Some were better to use than others. But all were okay to use (until they failed :( ). More wheel details later. My preliminary question is: should I simply expect to have these problems every thousand (or two) miles? That is, will I likely have problems like these at that rate no matter *what* wheel I have? If so, then my plan will likely be to go for a value proposition instead of a reliability one. That is, I'll settle with a cheap wheel, always having a backup, knowing that I'll have to replace/repair/adjust more often than I'd like. That'd be okay, I guess... though it seems wrong in some profound way; after all, I've literally never *had* to replace any of my non-Pasela tires. I've put at least 3000 miles on my most recent set and still *could* use the originals the Trek came with. (I went through 4 Paselas in short order, with all of them failing in the same way with a sidewall eruption. Too bad. I liked the gum sidewall look.) However, if these wheel problems are avoidable (yes, yes... I know... losing 80-90 pounds would go a long way; let's assume that's not happening short-term), what kind of wheel will avoid them? Wheels I've used thus far include: --- Shimano RM60 (Alivio-ish?) hub / 32 2|1.8|2mm spokes / cheapish Alex rim - lasted about 1000 miles before breaking spokes, eventually on 3 rides in a row --- 105 hub / 36 2mm spokes / Sun CR18 rim - lasted maybe a little over 1000 miles before 4 holes-worth of drive-side hub snapped off of the hub body --- Deore hub / 32 2mm spokes / Sun CR18 rim - lasted maybe 400 miles before breaking spokes on 3 or 4 rides in a row (had 2 of these on the the theory that the first one was not prepped properly... 2nd one was no different with prep) - eventually I bent an axle on one of these, the other one (having been re-laced and re-trued and overhauled) is now my snow/ice wheel and will see little mileage --- XT hub / 36 2|1.7|2mm spokes / Velocity Synergy OC rim - lasted around 1000 miles before periodic ka-tink ka-tink noise appeared in the hub; am currently looking into whether this is a fatal problem or simply a maintenance issue Now, if the current XT-hubbed wheel's problems turn out to be readily solvable (adjustment of bearings, regreasing, something like that) then I'm happy to stay with this kind of wheel. The spokes seem to maintain tension reasonably well and the rim has only minor touch-up every few hundred miles to keep it very true and round. I like the fact that the drive-side spokes are not *that* much more tight than the non-drive side because of the asymmetry. However, if it turns out that it *is* a fatal or unacceptably-severe problem (and surely one can appreciate my pessimism on this matter), I wonder: What sort of wheel do I need? I don't want to needlessly ride a wheel with 48 spokes and a 3 pound hub (exaggerating, perhaps... but still... you get the point). But I will ride a 48-spoke-3-pound-hub-wheel if that's the only way to avoid these problems. Nor do I want to pay $500+ if a $200 wheel will give me a reasonable level of reliability with reasonable ride
[RBW] strong wheels
I've used phil hubs with 48 spokes on my tandem for years and they have never failed. I have also a set of 40 spoke wheels with edco hubs without failure with well over 350 pounds. Costly but worth the money. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Heavy rider wheel issues
Thomas Lynn Skean wrote: Hi, all. I seek counsel. snip My problem is that I haven't gotten more than 1000 miles on any rear wheel without complete failure --- Thomas, I¹ve weighed 220-260 lbs, and I¹ve logged 5,000 miles a year when I rode my bike to work. I¹ve never had the degree of trouble you describe, even with OEM wheels, but these days I ride wheels built by Rich Lesnik at Rivendell, and by Peter White. You don¹t mention your wheel builder, but I think that¹s the critical factor. Appropriate components are not enough; wheels must be assembled by skilled hands. In your shoes, I would call Rich or Peter. There are other good wheel builders out there, but I¹m positive either of those can guide you to the right wheels for your Sam and its rider. -- Jon ³Papa² Grant Austin, Texas -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Heavy rider wheel issues
There's a lot to dig into there, Thomas. Hubs shouldn't be catastrophically failing, axles should not be bending (with a freehub setup) and I wouldn't even expect spoke breakage within 1,000 miles unless there were some other issues involved. Depending upon conditions (wet winter weather, for example), repacking hub bearings within that period is well within reason. A 250 pound rider is probably just below the the average for Clysedale, and I know a few who run 32h setups without problem. But, bolt upright position is more than likely concentrating a lot of force to the rear wheel. As light as you think you are riding, there may be room for improvement - when you say that you lift the wheel, are you talking about the rear wheel? Or, are you front wheelie-ing and concentrating all the weight onto the rear wheel? You don't say who built these wheels. If they are off the rack, they are more than likely machine built, with little to no finishing, destressing, etc. Some of the failures you've experienced sound like that. Somewhere, I'm not sure about your numbers - 35mm tires with 60 psi on trails with your mass in the position your describing sounds like pinch-flat-city to me, though not if your limestone trails are smooth. Have you experimented with larger volume tires? (Maybe that will be easier on the Hillborne.) Big tires protect better. In short, I'd either talk to Rich at Rivbike or find a local wheelbuilder who is _not_ a 135 roadie (yes, there are exceptions...). You want to find the big-boned person who has broken wheels themselves (and having built at least a few 100 wheels from scratch) and talk with them about it. The hands that build the wheels are key. Handbuilt wheels are different. I know you are joking about 48h and 3# hubs, but you more than likely don't need either. At 48h, you have arguably a less strong rim (more holes) and Ultegra/XT level hubs should be able to handle things. Lastly, I'd have a shop check the alignment of your rear dropouts and frame. Consistent wheel issues like that could be as a result of misaligned/bent dropouts or rear triangle. Hope that helps, - Jim -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Current Classics Bicycle Photo Gallery - http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc Cross Bike Photo Gallery - http://www.cyclofiend.com/cx Single Speed Garage Photo Gallery - http://www.cyclofiend.com/ssg Working Bikes Practical Hardware - http://www.cyclofiend.com/working Work Shops of the iBob's - http://www.cyclofiend.com/shop Send In Your Photos! - Here's how: http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines That which is overdesigned, too highly specific, anticipates outcome; the anticipation of outcome guarantees, if not failure, the absence of grace. William Gibson - All Tomorrow's Parties -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Lugged! Proper fork bend! 650B! Fenders! Fattish Tires! Riv-ish!
I wish Mr Gordon was a little taller. The bikes he has built over the years for his own use are pretty incredible... I'd take a run at talking him out of one if they were 62's. On Apr 19, 7:50 am, Bruce Gordon bgcyc...@svn.net wrote: Yes those are prototype tires not production models - Pacenti said they would be available in May. Sorry you don't see the reason for this sort of construction - I built the bike for myself, nobody else. ore options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Heavy rider wheel issues
On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 12:02 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net wrote: Hi, all. I seek counsel. I weigh about 250 lbs. I often carry 10-15 lbs on a rear rack. I ride a Trek hybrid, sitting bolt-upright. (By the way, this Trek is about as Riv'd up as any Trek could be. Actual Riv relevance: Later this year I'll also be riding a Hillborne and any counsel I receive will apply to it for sure; maybe/maybe-not for the Trek. Also, the riding I do is very much non-clubby, non-race-y, and non-trivial in distance; this seems to match up with Riv philosophy and thus seems appropriate for this group.) I use 700x35 tires on 32- or 36-spoke wheels at about 60 psi. I ride 70-100 miles/week 12 months a year (I bet that'll rise when I get the Hillborne), over half on limestone trail. I'm actually pretty easy on the bike in general, avoiding obstacles/rough path where practical, lifting the wheel and slowing down when I don't avoid the hazard. My problem is that I haven't gotten more than 1000 miles on any rear wheel without complete failure (cracked hub, bent axle) or the need for repair (hub overhaul, multiple spoke breakage, rim *way* out-of- true-or-round). The wheels I've used include some cheapies and some good ones. Some were better to use than others. But all were okay to use (until they failed :( ). More wheel details later. You shouldn't have these sort of problems within a thousand miles or so. I have LX and XT hubs with over 5,000 miles each, and i expect them to last for many more years with normal maintenance. To look at your earlier wheel failures, it seems like the rim might be the common weak link. The CR18 is a decent rim, but they aren't consistently round, and it's certainly possible that spoke tension was uneven on each of them, leading to out-of-true issues and premature spoke breakage. I'd say that your current XT wheel should be plenty strong for the load, and the Synergy is a good rim. It's impossible to tell without hearing the sounds, but it seems likely that the hub just needs fresh bearings and a repack. I don't know where you got the wheel, but often it seems Shimano hubs come from the factory a little too tight and a little light on grease (at least for my taste) and i usually rebuild brand new Shimano hubs before using them. 36 spokes should be fine too; more might be better, but i don't think strictly necessary. If you have any problems with the rim staying true, the Velocity Dyad or Salsa DelGato might be a stronger choice. Since you mention your riding position, i'll add that the bolt upright position does tend to put a greater percentage of weight on the rear wheel, which would also tend to explain the issues. I certainly don't think there's anything wrong with sitting upright, nor that 250lbs is too heavy to expect a bike to handle. I do think that the combination of the two tends to require a stronger rear wheel than might otherwise be indicated, but i'd say what you have now should be sufficient. -- Bill Connell St. Paul, MN -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Hilsen and tire clearance.
on 4/19/10 9:12 AM, Mike at mjawn...@gmail.com wrote: On Apr 18, 10:53 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote: I do ride my JB greens off-road, though they are less fun than my 42mm IRC Mythos XC Slicks. Have gotten one pinch flat on a high speed descend on a gravel road with sharp fist-sized rocks, running around 35-40 psi with a bike+rider weight of 210 lbs. Gernot I think there are plenty of riders who can get by riding JB greens off road. Mark at Rivendell does and I think Cyclofiend has too. I weigh 190 and am magnetically drawn to every rut, rock, root and bad line when pedaling off road so it's just not a good idea for me. Then again, I've ridden 28s off road at times. It's really nice to have a bike the Hilsen or SH that provides lots of options. JB Greens are my choice. But, I have gotten pretty quick at on-the-trail tube replacements over the years. ;^) Most of the local trails have some pretty sharp, rocky bits, which means adding a bit more pressure. I think you'll find a lot of pinch flats at that psi, if those are your conditions. On certain trails, I increase pressure significantly. It's always a balance of comfort, control, pressure and technique. That's the challenge I enjoy, and it doesn't always make for easy-breezy descending. If you want lower pressures, increase the tire volume. JB's are nice and fat and round, which give significant control, but things can get dicey when when things are jagged. Of course, if you increase size even a little bit, it feels like a monster truck. - J -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Your Photos are needed! - http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines I thought the idea was to waste the rest of our lives together.. -- Cyril, Breaking Away -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues
Get Rich to build up a Phil freewheel hub dishless, 36 spokes and 7 speed. This should last you a very long time, and in my opinion is one of the best values in the wheel market at the moment. - Rob On Apr 19, 10:02 am, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net wrote: Hi, all. I seek counsel. I weigh about 250 lbs. I often carry 10-15 lbs on a rear rack. I ride a Trek hybrid, sitting bolt-upright. (By the way, this Trek is about as Riv'd up as any Trek could be. Actual Riv relevance: Later this year I'll also be riding a Hillborne and any counsel I receive will apply to it for sure; maybe/maybe-not for the Trek. Also, the riding I do is very much non-clubby, non-race-y, and non-trivial in distance; this seems to match up with Riv philosophy and thus seems appropriate for this group.) I use 700x35 tires on 32- or 36-spoke wheels at about 60 psi. I ride 70-100 miles/week 12 months a year (I bet that'll rise when I get the Hillborne), over half on limestone trail. I'm actually pretty easy on the bike in general, avoiding obstacles/rough path where practical, lifting the wheel and slowing down when I don't avoid the hazard. My problem is that I haven't gotten more than 1000 miles on any rear wheel without complete failure (cracked hub, bent axle) or the need for repair (hub overhaul, multiple spoke breakage, rim *way* out-of- true-or-round). The wheels I've used include some cheapies and some good ones. Some were better to use than others. But all were okay to use (until they failed :( ). More wheel details later. My preliminary question is: should I simply expect to have these problems every thousand (or two) miles? That is, will I likely have problems like these at that rate no matter *what* wheel I have? If so, then my plan will likely be to go for a value proposition instead of a reliability one. That is, I'll settle with a cheap wheel, always having a backup, knowing that I'll have to replace/repair/adjust more often than I'd like. That'd be okay, I guess... though it seems wrong in some profound way; after all, I've literally never *had* to replace any of my non-Pasela tires. I've put at least 3000 miles on my most recent set and still *could* use the originals the Trek came with. (I went through 4 Paselas in short order, with all of them failing in the same way with a sidewall eruption. Too bad. I liked the gum sidewall look.) However, if these wheel problems are avoidable (yes, yes... I know... losing 80-90 pounds would go a long way; let's assume that's not happening short-term), what kind of wheel will avoid them? Wheels I've used thus far include: --- Shimano RM60 (Alivio-ish?) hub / 32 2|1.8|2mm spokes / cheapish Alex rim - lasted about 1000 miles before breaking spokes, eventually on 3 rides in a row --- 105 hub / 36 2mm spokes / Sun CR18 rim - lasted maybe a little over 1000 miles before 4 holes-worth of drive-side hub snapped off of the hub body --- Deore hub / 32 2mm spokes / Sun CR18 rim - lasted maybe 400 miles before breaking spokes on 3 or 4 rides in a row (had 2 of these on the the theory that the first one was not prepped properly... 2nd one was no different with prep) - eventually I bent an axle on one of these, the other one (having been re-laced and re-trued and overhauled) is now my snow/ice wheel and will see little mileage --- XT hub / 36 2|1.7|2mm spokes / Velocity Synergy OC rim - lasted around 1000 miles before periodic ka-tink ka-tink noise appeared in the hub; am currently looking into whether this is a fatal problem or simply a maintenance issue Now, if the current XT-hubbed wheel's problems turn out to be readily solvable (adjustment of bearings, regreasing, something like that) then I'm happy to stay with this kind of wheel. The spokes seem to maintain tension reasonably well and the rim has only minor touch-up every few hundred miles to keep it very true and round. I like the fact that the drive-side spokes are not *that* much more tight than the non-drive side because of the asymmetry. However, if it turns out that it *is* a fatal or unacceptably-severe problem (and surely one can appreciate my pessimism on this matter), I wonder: What sort of wheel do I need? I don't want to needlessly ride a wheel with 48 spokes and a 3 pound hub (exaggerating, perhaps... but still... you get the point). But I will ride a 48-spoke-3-pound-hub-wheel if that's the only way to avoid these problems. Nor do I want to pay $500+ if a $200 wheel will give me a reasonable level of reliability with reasonable ride quality. Let's assume for argument's sake that I would be willing to go for the $500+ wheel if it would be expected to simply work (and work well, of course) for 1000s of miles with only normal maintenance-type service. Help? Thoughts? Musings? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to
Re: [RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues
Are 7 speed cassett or freewheels readily available? I thought that 7 and 8 speeds were getting hard to find. Jim D. Massachusetts --- On Mon, 4/19/10, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote: From: rperks perks@gmail.com Subject: [RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Date: Monday, April 19, 2010, 3:03 PM Get Rich to build up a Phil freewheel hub dishless, 36 spokes and 7 speed. This should last you a very long time, and in my opinion is one of the best values in the wheel market at the moment. - Rob On Apr 19, 10:02 am, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net wrote: Hi, all. I seek counsel. I weigh about 250 lbs. I often carry 10-15 lbs on a rear rack. I ride a Trek hybrid, sitting bolt-upright. (By the way, this Trek is about as Riv'd up as any Trek could be. Actual Riv relevance: Later this year I'll also be riding a Hillborne and any counsel I receive will apply to it for sure; maybe/maybe-not for the Trek. Also, the riding I do is very much non-clubby, non-race-y, and non-trivial in distance; this seems to match up with Riv philosophy and thus seems appropriate for this group.) I use 700x35 tires on 32- or 36-spoke wheels at about 60 psi. I ride 70-100 miles/week 12 months a year (I bet that'll rise when I get the Hillborne), over half on limestone trail. I'm actually pretty easy on the bike in general, avoiding obstacles/rough path where practical, lifting the wheel and slowing down when I don't avoid the hazard. My problem is that I haven't gotten more than 1000 miles on any rear wheel without complete failure (cracked hub, bent axle) or the need for repair (hub overhaul, multiple spoke breakage, rim *way* out-of- true-or-round). The wheels I've used include some cheapies and some good ones. Some were better to use than others. But all were okay to use (until they failed :( ). More wheel details later. My preliminary question is: should I simply expect to have these problems every thousand (or two) miles? That is, will I likely have problems like these at that rate no matter *what* wheel I have? If so, then my plan will likely be to go for a value proposition instead of a reliability one. That is, I'll settle with a cheap wheel, always having a backup, knowing that I'll have to replace/repair/adjust more often than I'd like. That'd be okay, I guess... though it seems wrong in some profound way; after all, I've literally never *had* to replace any of my non-Pasela tires. I've put at least 3000 miles on my most recent set and still *could* use the originals the Trek came with. (I went through 4 Paselas in short order, with all of them failing in the same way with a sidewall eruption. Too bad. I liked the gum sidewall look.) However, if these wheel problems are avoidable (yes, yes... I know... losing 80-90 pounds would go a long way; let's assume that's not happening short-term), what kind of wheel will avoid them? Wheels I've used thus far include: --- Shimano RM60 (Alivio-ish?) hub / 32 2|1.8|2mm spokes / cheapish Alex rim - lasted about 1000 miles before breaking spokes, eventually on 3 rides in a row --- 105 hub / 36 2mm spokes / Sun CR18 rim - lasted maybe a little over 1000 miles before 4 holes-worth of drive-side hub snapped off of the hub body --- Deore hub / 32 2mm spokes / Sun CR18 rim - lasted maybe 400 miles before breaking spokes on 3 or 4 rides in a row (had 2 of these on the the theory that the first one was not prepped properly... 2nd one was no different with prep) - eventually I bent an axle on one of these, the other one (having been re-laced and re-trued and overhauled) is now my snow/ice wheel and will see little mileage --- XT hub / 36 2|1.7|2mm spokes / Velocity Synergy OC rim - lasted around 1000 miles before periodic ka-tink ka-tink noise appeared in the hub; am currently looking into whether this is a fatal problem or simply a maintenance issue Now, if the current XT-hubbed wheel's problems turn out to be readily solvable (adjustment of bearings, regreasing, something like that) then I'm happy to stay with this kind of wheel. The spokes seem to maintain tension reasonably well and the rim has only minor touch-up every few hundred miles to keep it very true and round. I like the fact that the drive-side spokes are not *that* much more tight than the non-drive side because of the asymmetry. However, if it turns out that it *is* a fatal or unacceptably-severe problem (and surely one can appreciate my pessimism on this matter), I wonder: What sort of wheel do I need? I don't want to needlessly ride a wheel with 48 spokes and a 3 pound hub (exaggerating, perhaps... but still... you get the point). But I will ride a 48-spoke-3-pound-hub-wheel if that's the only way to avoid these problems. Nor do I want to pay $500+ if a $200 wheel will give me a reasonable level of reliability with reasonable ride quality. Let's
Re: [RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues
On Mon, 2010-04-19 at 12:42 -0700, James Dinneen wrote: Are 7 speed cassett 7 speed cassettes are indeed available, and in all the original combinations. The silver finish HG70s are starting to become discontinued, but the black HG50s are readily available -- and they're all pretty cheap compared to 9 or 10 speed cassettes. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues
The hands that build the wheels are key. Handbuilt wheels are different. Speaking of handsI met Rich last month and shook hands with him. Talk about hands! It was like grabbing on to a Christmas ham. Those are some meaty paws. I doubt that one could correlate hand girth to wheelbuilding skill, but those mitts have done work, that's for sure. On Apr 19, 11:19 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote: There's a lot to dig into there, Thomas. Hubs shouldn't be catastrophically failing, axles should not be bending (with a freehub setup) and I wouldn't even expect spoke breakage within 1,000 miles unless there were some other issues involved. Depending upon conditions (wet winter weather, for example), repacking hub bearings within that period is well within reason. A 250 pound rider is probably just below the the average for Clysedale, and I know a few who run 32h setups without problem. But, bolt upright position is more than likely concentrating a lot of force to the rear wheel. As light as you think you are riding, there may be room for improvement - when you say that you lift the wheel, are you talking about the rear wheel? Or, are you front wheelie-ing and concentrating all the weight onto the rear wheel? You don't say who built these wheels. If they are off the rack, they are more than likely machine built, with little to no finishing, destressing, etc. Some of the failures you've experienced sound like that. Somewhere, I'm not sure about your numbers - 35mm tires with 60 psi on trails with your mass in the position your describing sounds like pinch-flat-city to me, though not if your limestone trails are smooth. Have you experimented with larger volume tires? (Maybe that will be easier on the Hillborne.) Big tires protect better. In short, I'd either talk to Rich at Rivbike or find a local wheelbuilder who is _not_ a 135 roadie (yes, there are exceptions...). You want to find the big-boned person who has broken wheels themselves (and having built at least a few 100 wheels from scratch) and talk with them about it. The hands that build the wheels are key. Handbuilt wheels are different. I know you are joking about 48h and 3# hubs, but you more than likely don't need either. At 48h, you have arguably a less strong rim (more holes) and Ultegra/XT level hubs should be able to handle things. Lastly, I'd have a shop check the alignment of your rear dropouts and frame. Consistent wheel issues like that could be as a result of misaligned/bent dropouts or rear triangle. Hope that helps, - Jim -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Current Classics Bicycle Photo Gallery -http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc Cross Bike Photo Gallery -http://www.cyclofiend.com/cx Single Speed Garage Photo Gallery -http://www.cyclofiend.com/ssg Working Bikes Practical Hardware -http://www.cyclofiend.com/working Work Shops of the iBob's -http://www.cyclofiend.com/shop Send In Your Photos! - Here's how:http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines That which is overdesigned, too highly specific, anticipates outcome; the anticipation of outcome guarantees, if not failure, the absence of grace. William Gibson - All Tomorrow's Parties -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Lugged! Proper fork bend! 650B! Fenders! Fattish Tires! Riv-ish!
I remember desperately wanting a Bruce Gordon Chinook in 1983. I vividly remember the Bicycling magazine write up, and lamenting that the frameset was an unobtainable $499. That article might have been the birth of my love for Orange bikes. That thing was clean. I'd still love to own a BG someday. On Apr 19, 7:50 am, Bruce Gordon bgcyc...@svn.net wrote: Yes those are prototype tires not production models - Pacenti said they would be available in May. Sorry you don't see the reason for this sort of construction - I built the bike for myself, nobody else. Yes it does weigh 21 pounds Regards, Bruce Gordon www.bgcycles.comhttp://www.bgcycles.com/ brucegordoncycles.blogspot.com _ From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of carnerda...@bellsouth.net Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 6:52 PM To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [RBW] Lugged! Proper fork bend! 650B! Fenders! Fattish Tires! Riv-ish! Are those tires prototypes or production versions? PATRICK MOORE wrote: http://www.flickr.com/photos/23259...@n05/4526924426/in/set-721576237... 9/ Cross-posted from the Frame list. I don't see a reason for this sort of construction, except as a craftman's tour de force (as opposed to his tour de france), but man, I'd ride it in a Rivendell minute! IIRC, BG claimed 21 lb for the bike as pictured. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Heavy rider wheel issues
I weigh 270+; ride a Rivendell Redwood (68). I solved my cracked wheel issues by having my LBS build me a wheel using a 48 spoke Bontrager Clydesdale tandem rim, dished for my use. Not only did I used to use the measurement of months per rim, it used to be flats per week. Since having Cyclewerks build my wheel, I now measure in months per flat and have not had a rim problem in the 5 years of using my special built wheel. I ride on Panaracer Pasela 35s, the kevlar model and couldn't be a happier rider---unless of course I lost 50lbs and didn't need these extras---but that is pure speculation. The rest is reality. Maybe this gives you some hope. Derek Simmons On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 10:02 AM, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net wrote: Hi, all. I seek counsel. I weigh about 250 lbs. I often carry 10-15 lbs on a rear rack. I ride a Trek hybrid, sitting bolt-upright. (By the way, this Trek is about as Riv'd up as any Trek could be. Actual Riv relevance: Later this year I'll also be riding a Hillborne and any counsel I receive will apply to it for sure; maybe/maybe-not for the Trek. Also, the riding I do is very much non-clubby, non-race-y, and non-trivial in distance; this seems to match up with Riv philosophy and thus seems appropriate for this group.) I use 700x35 tires on 32- or 36-spoke wheels at about 60 psi. I ride 70-100 miles/week 12 months a year (I bet that'll rise when I get the Hillborne), over half on limestone trail. I'm actually pretty easy on the bike in general, avoiding obstacles/rough path where practical, lifting the wheel and slowing down when I don't avoid the hazard. My problem is that I haven't gotten more than 1000 miles on any rear wheel without complete failure (cracked hub, bent axle) or the need for repair (hub overhaul, multiple spoke breakage, rim *way* out-of- true-or-round). The wheels I've used include some cheapies and some good ones. Some were better to use than others. But all were okay to use (until they failed :( ). More wheel details later. My preliminary question is: should I simply expect to have these problems every thousand (or two) miles? That is, will I likely have problems like these at that rate no matter *what* wheel I have? If so, then my plan will likely be to go for a value proposition instead of a reliability one. That is, I'll settle with a cheap wheel, always having a backup, knowing that I'll have to replace/repair/adjust more often than I'd like. That'd be okay, I guess... though it seems wrong in some profound way; after all, I've literally never *had* to replace any of my non-Pasela tires. I've put at least 3000 miles on my most recent set and still *could* use the originals the Trek came with. (I went through 4 Paselas in short order, with all of them failing in the same way with a sidewall eruption. Too bad. I liked the gum sidewall look.) However, if these wheel problems are avoidable (yes, yes... I know... losing 80-90 pounds would go a long way; let's assume that's not happening short-term), what kind of wheel will avoid them? Wheels I've used thus far include: --- Shimano RM60 (Alivio-ish?) hub / 32 2|1.8|2mm spokes / cheapish Alex rim - lasted about 1000 miles before breaking spokes, eventually on 3 rides in a row --- 105 hub / 36 2mm spokes / Sun CR18 rim - lasted maybe a little over 1000 miles before 4 holes-worth of drive-side hub snapped off of the hub body --- Deore hub / 32 2mm spokes / Sun CR18 rim - lasted maybe 400 miles before breaking spokes on 3 or 4 rides in a row (had 2 of these on the the theory that the first one was not prepped properly... 2nd one was no different with prep) - eventually I bent an axle on one of these, the other one (having been re-laced and re-trued and overhauled) is now my snow/ice wheel and will see little mileage --- XT hub / 36 2|1.7|2mm spokes / Velocity Synergy OC rim - lasted around 1000 miles before periodic ka-tink ka-tink noise appeared in the hub; am currently looking into whether this is a fatal problem or simply a maintenance issue Now, if the current XT-hubbed wheel's problems turn out to be readily solvable (adjustment of bearings, regreasing, something like that) then I'm happy to stay with this kind of wheel. The spokes seem to maintain tension reasonably well and the rim has only minor touch-up every few hundred miles to keep it very true and round. I like the fact that the drive-side spokes are not *that* much more tight than the non-drive side because of the asymmetry. However, if it turns out that it *is* a fatal or unacceptably-severe problem (and surely one can appreciate my pessimism on this matter), I wonder: What sort of wheel do I need? I don't want to needlessly ride a wheel with 48 spokes and a 3 pound hub (exaggerating, perhaps... but still... you get the point). But I will ride a 48-spoke-3-pound-hub-wheel if that's the only way to avoid these problems. Nor do I want to pay $500+ if a
Re: [RBW] Heavy rider wheel issues
On Apr 19, 2010, at 12:02 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean wrote: Hi, all. I seek counsel. I weigh about 250 lbs. I often carry 10-15 lbs on a rear rack. I ride a Trek hybrid, sitting bolt-upright. (By the way, this Trek is about as Riv'd up as any Trek could be. Actual Riv relevance: Later this year I'll also be riding a Hillborne and any counsel I receive will apply to it for sure; maybe/maybe-not for the Trek. Also, the riding I do is very much non-clubby, non-race-y, and non-trivial in distance; this seems to match up with Riv philosophy and thus seems appropriate for this group.) I use 700x35 tires on 32- or 36-spoke wheels at about 60 psi. snip Help? Thoughts? Musings? Tandems put more load than you on wheels. So do loaded touring bikes. They are not experiencing the failures you are. The axle failures you report really bother me. I would look very carefully at the frame- make sure the dropouts are properly aligned (if not they can put a bending force on the axle). A *good* bike shop with frame alignment tools can check this and make any adjustments, or go to a frame builder. If your frame has horizontal dropouts I would recommend replacing the frame with a bike with vertical dropouts; these support the axle better and were created to reduce axle breakage. They also work better with fenders. 60 psi in a 700 x 35 tire at your weight seems low to me. My going-forward-advice would be to use no less than a 36 spoke rear wheel. I'd recommend a Phil Wood freewheel hub (less expensive but still spendy) or Phil Wood cassette hub (grande expensativo). You won't break those axles nor will you be at all likely to tear the flanges apart. The rim recommendation I will have to defer, although Chalo Colina over on the rec.bicycles.tech group weighs over 300 lbs (I think he's like 6'8 or something like that) and he has had good results with Alex rims (and rides 48 spoke wheels). He has recommended the Alex AT-400 or the DM-18. You can Google for Chalo Colina Alex rims and find some of the threads and his email address if you want to contact him. Jim Thill on this mailing list builds good wheels professionally and has put some wheels together for bigger riders than you. He might have an option on a rim, too. Chalo is also a machinist and builds lots of bike stuff to meet his particular needs as a very big, very heavy guy. Check out his brakes: http://chalo.org/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues
Another one to recommend a good wheel builder to build the wheels. Besides Rich, Jim at Hiawatha here in MN is a good builder. He's built all my wheels. Agree more air in the tires is the cheapest fix. On 35mm Paselas, I'd run them at 80 to 90 psi. A year or so ago I was that weight and that's what I did. No flats and no spoke issues. Besides the Velocity rims, will also plug the Salsa Delgado in 700C. They are wide and can handle higher pressures on wide tires. Right now my Sam Hillborne has Marathon Supreme tires 40mm wide at about 65 psi and no problems. Even when I was 300 pounds, didn't have a problem breaking rear hubs. That sounds like a frame alignment issue. You can spend $500 for wheels, but a good builder should be able to make a full set for less than that. Eric Platt St. Paul, MN On Apr 19, 6:55�pm, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote: On Apr 19, 2010, at 12:02 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean wrote: Hi, all. I seek counsel. I weigh about 250 lbs. I often carry 10-15 lbs on a rear rack. I ride a Trek hybrid, sitting bolt-upright. (By the way, this Trek is about as Riv'd up as any Trek could be. Actual Riv relevance: Later this year I'll also be riding a Hillborne and any counsel I receive will apply to it for sure; maybe/maybe-not for the Trek. Also, the riding I do is very much non-clubby, non-race-y, and non-trivial in distance; this seems to match up with Riv philosophy and thus seems appropriate for this group.) I use 700x35 tires on 32- or 36-spoke wheels at about 60 psi. snip Help? Thoughts? Musings? Tandems put more load than you on wheels. �So do loaded touring � bikes. �They are not experiencing the failures you are. �The axle � failures you report really bother me. �I would look very carefully at � the frame- make sure the dropouts are properly aligned (if not they � can put a bending force on the axle). �A *good* bike shop with frame � alignment tools can check this and make any adjustments, or go to a � frame builder. �If your frame has horizontal dropouts I would � recommend replacing the frame with a bike with vertical dropouts; � these support the axle better and were created to reduce axle � breakage. �They also work better with fenders. 60 psi in a 700 x 35 tire at your weight seems low to me. My going-forward-advice would be to use no less than a 36 spoke rear � wheel. �I'd recommend a Phil Wood freewheel hub (less expensive but � still spendy) or Phil Wood cassette hub (grande expensativo). �You � won't break those axles nor will you be at all likely to tear the � flanges apart. �The rim recommendation I will have to defer, although � Chalo Colina over on the rec.bicycles.tech group weighs over 300 lbs � (I think he's like 6'8 or something like that) and he has had good � results with Alex rims (and rides 48 spoke wheels). �He has � recommended the Alex AT-400 or the DM-18. �You can Google for Chalo � Colina Alex rims and find some of the threads and his email address � if you want to contact him. �Jim Thill on this mailing list builds � good wheels professionally and has put some wheels together for � bigger riders than you. �He might have an option on a rim, too. Chalo is also a machinist and builds lots of bike stuff to meet his � particular needs as a very big, very heavy guy. �Check out his brakes: http://chalo.org/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: strong wheels
Costly but worth the money. Gee, then the relatively inexpensive Shimanos, with better double lip seals that actually keep out water, and bearings that can actually be adjusted are a screaming deal. The Phil hubs are pretty, and the company's service is very good. Other than that...well they do have status. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] fatter tires for 26 wheels
After reading Jan's article about fatter tires in the latest BQ, I decided to try it on my All-Rounder. I'd gotten this frameset about three years ago and built it up with drop bars. (Although the height of the frame was a little short for my legs, the top tube was the right length for drops.) I've ridden it on numerous city and country rides and have done a couple of bike-camping overnights on it (longest rides on this have been several metric centuries). I have wrestled with the feel of this bike since building it up with 26 x 1.25 Paselas. Although the tires help up well, the feel of the 1.25 width seemed sort of harsh, and worse, squirrelly. In the absence of a pair of T-Serv tires just sitting around, I installed some 1.5 Paselas, and ran some errands while at work. I noticed the difference in handling pretty much right away. The bike rolled easily but cornered more gently and without as much of the squirrelly feeling I'd had with the skinnier tires. Just for fun, I also raised the handlebar about 1/2. Now the bike looks sort of odd because the handlebars are so close to the saddle; but I have a really short torso and had let go of the classic look of a road bike long ago anyway. What I have now is a more comfortable bike with a mellower ride quality. Do I feel slower? Well, I felt slower already but that's totally on me. The ride is smoother and more stable and that matters more to me than speed these days. I think this is a good experiment to do on bikes with 26 wheels. I'd like to hear from others who are running wider tires on 26 bikes they ride mostly on pavement. Beth http://bikelovejones1.blogspot.com/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: fatter tires for 26 wheels
I ran 1.75 Paselas on my Atlantis and it felt sluggish on pavement, but great offroad. 1.25 Paselas felt more nimble. Ryan On Apr 19, 6:14 pm, b hamon periwinkle...@yahoo.com wrote: After reading Jan's article about fatter tires in the latest BQ, I decided to try it on my All-Rounder. I'd gotten this frameset about three years ago and built it up with drop bars. (Although the height of the frame was a little short for my legs, the top tube was the right length for drops.) I've ridden it on numerous city and country rides and have done a couple of bike-camping overnights on it (longest rides on this have been several metric centuries). I have wrestled with the feel of this bike since building it up with 26 x 1.25 Paselas. Although the tires help up well, the feel of the 1.25 width seemed sort of harsh, and worse, squirrelly. In the absence of a pair of T-Serv tires just sitting around, I installed some 1.5 Paselas, and ran some errands while at work. I noticed the difference in handling pretty much right away. The bike rolled easily but cornered more gently and without as much of the squirrelly feeling I'd had with the skinnier tires. Just for fun, I also raised the handlebar about 1/2. Now the bike looks sort of odd because the handlebars are so close to the saddle; but I have a really short torso and had let go of the classic look of a road bike long ago anyway. What I have now is a more comfortable bike with a mellower ride quality. Do I feel slower? Well, I felt slower already but that's totally on me. The ride is smoother and more stable and that matters more to me than speed these days. I think this is a good experiment to do on bikes with 26 wheels. I'd like to hear from others who are running wider tires on 26 bikes they ride mostly on pavement. Beth http://bikelovejones1.blogspot.com/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: fatter tires for 26 wheels
Hi Beth, On my Adventure Touring bike (early 90's MTB) - set up as a backroads touring bike (gravel, but lots of pavement too), I'm running Schwalbe Marathon Extreme 2.0. They are fantastic! I've tried a lot of tires before these, including skinny bald ones . . . Ritchey, Specialized, etc. I also liked the Continental Travel Contacts in 1.75 widths, but the Schwalbe Extremes are lighter, roll better, and feel plusher. Those folks have done some amazing development work on tires. Here's my nubster: http://www.flickr.com/photos/39151...@n07/sets/72157623375460150/ (some RBW racks, bags, basket, etc.) Jan's article is interesting as always, and I think he's usually on the right track, but I wonder about other variables sometimes - i.e. I'm wider, taller and heavier (I wish stronger!) So my c/g and moments are going to be different, etc. I'm about 195 and 6'3, so really enjoy bigger tires. 35mm on my Hilsen, and nothing skinnier than 32mm on any of my bikes (though some of the actual widths are 29-30mm . . . ) It's all fun. Alex -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues
Wow.I am 268 right now and ride old 80's Araya 27x1 1/4 in rims/tires at 90 psi but the rim has been converted to a two speed and is re dished to symmetrical. My hubs are old Suzue freewheel style and no problems at all. These wheels have over 3000 miles on them in two different configurations with no problems at all. I did have one tire, (Pasela) get a sidewall cut after hitting a piece of metal but no other flatting. My other bike has had some factory Performance T520 36 spoke wheels and 105 hubs with about the same or more miles and again no problems. My most recent set are A719s with XT or LX hubs (can't remember exactly) 36 spoke and factory built..but I am using the stout Schwalbe 700x47 tires at about 60-70 psi. These tires are actually 41mm wide on my rims and I believe they are the ticket to long lasting wheels etc. You need higher volume tires at the pressures you are currently riding and perhaps better built wheels/ parts but I think you need 36 spoke rear at least and you might consider having a symmetrical wheel built using either Phil Wood freewheel hubs and a 7 speed freewheel or a Shimano mountain bike hub built symmetrical with a 7 speed cassette. That's what I am planning. On Apr 19, 10:02 am, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net wrote: Hi, all. I seek counsel. I weigh about 250 lbs. I often carry 10-15 lbs on a rear rack. I ride a Trek hybrid, sitting bolt-upright. (By the way, this Trek is about as Riv'd up as any Trek could be. Actual Riv relevance: Later this year I'll also be riding a Hillborne and any counsel I receive will apply to it for sure; maybe/maybe-not for the Trek. Also, the riding I do is very much non-clubby, non-race-y, and non-trivial in distance; this seems to match up with Riv philosophy and thus seems appropriate for this group.) I use 700x35 tires on 32- or 36-spoke wheels at about 60 psi. I ride 70-100 miles/week 12 months a year (I bet that'll rise when I get the Hillborne), over half on limestone trail. I'm actually pretty easy on the bike in general, avoiding obstacles/rough path where practical, lifting the wheel and slowing down when I don't avoid the hazard. My problem is that I haven't gotten more than 1000 miles on any rear wheel without complete failure (cracked hub, bent axle) or the need for repair (hub overhaul, multiple spoke breakage, rim *way* out-of- true-or-round). The wheels I've used include some cheapies and some good ones. Some were better to use than others. But all were okay to use (until they failed :( ). More wheel details later. My preliminary question is: should I simply expect to have these problems every thousand (or two) miles? That is, will I likely have problems like these at that rate no matter *what* wheel I have? If so, then my plan will likely be to go for a value proposition instead of a reliability one. That is, I'll settle with a cheap wheel, always having a backup, knowing that I'll have to replace/repair/adjust more often than I'd like. That'd be okay, I guess... though it seems wrong in some profound way; after all, I've literally never *had* to replace any of my non-Pasela tires. I've put at least 3000 miles on my most recent set and still *could* use the originals the Trek came with. (I went through 4 Paselas in short order, with all of them failing in the same way with a sidewall eruption. Too bad. I liked the gum sidewall look.) However, if these wheel problems are avoidable (yes, yes... I know... losing 80-90 pounds would go a long way; let's assume that's not happening short-term), what kind of wheel will avoid them? Wheels I've used thus far include: --- Shimano RM60 (Alivio-ish?) hub / 32 2|1.8|2mm spokes / cheapish Alex rim - lasted about 1000 miles before breaking spokes, eventually on 3 rides in a row --- 105 hub / 36 2mm spokes / Sun CR18 rim - lasted maybe a little over 1000 miles before 4 holes-worth of drive-side hub snapped off of the hub body --- Deore hub / 32 2mm spokes / Sun CR18 rim - lasted maybe 400 miles before breaking spokes on 3 or 4 rides in a row (had 2 of these on the the theory that the first one was not prepped properly... 2nd one was no different with prep) - eventually I bent an axle on one of these, the other one (having been re-laced and re-trued and overhauled) is now my snow/ice wheel and will see little mileage --- XT hub / 36 2|1.7|2mm spokes / Velocity Synergy OC rim - lasted around 1000 miles before periodic ka-tink ka-tink noise appeared in the hub; am currently looking into whether this is a fatal problem or simply a maintenance issue Now, if the current XT-hubbed wheel's problems turn out to be readily solvable (adjustment of bearings, regreasing, something like that) then I'm happy to stay with this kind of wheel. The spokes seem to maintain tension reasonably well and the rim has only minor touch-up every few hundred miles to keep it very true and round. I like the fact that the
[RBW] Re: fatter tires for 26 wheels
Beth, I keep singing the praises of the Schwalbe Marathon Racer 26X1.5. It is relatively light, long wearing, good puncture resistance, and feels like it rolls well (I believe Jan has confirmed low rolling resistance for this tire). It is my favorite 26er for pavement and occasional mixed surface rides. On Apr 19, 7:14 pm, b hamon periwinkle...@yahoo.com wrote: After reading Jan's article about fatter tires in the latest BQ, I decided to try it on my All-Rounder. I'd gotten this frameset about three years ago and built it up with drop bars. (Although the height of the frame was a little short for my legs, the top tube was the right length for drops.) I've ridden it on numerous city and country rides and have done a couple of bike-camping overnights on it (longest rides on this have been several metric centuries). I have wrestled with the feel of this bike since building it up with 26 x 1.25 Paselas. Although the tires help up well, the feel of the 1.25 width seemed sort of harsh, and worse, squirrelly. In the absence of a pair of T-Serv tires just sitting around, I installed some 1.5 Paselas, and ran some errands while at work. I noticed the difference in handling pretty much right away. The bike rolled easily but cornered more gently and without as much of the squirrelly feeling I'd had with the skinnier tires. Just for fun, I also raised the handlebar about 1/2. Now the bike looks sort of odd because the handlebars are so close to the saddle; but I have a really short torso and had let go of the classic look of a road bike long ago anyway. What I have now is a more comfortable bike with a mellower ride quality. Do I feel slower? Well, I felt slower already but that's totally on me. The ride is smoother and more stable and that matters more to me than speed these days. I think this is a good experiment to do on bikes with 26 wheels. I'd like to hear from others who are running wider tires on 26 bikes they ride mostly on pavement. Beth http://bikelovejones1.blogspot.com/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] fatter tires for 26 wheels
On Mon, 2010-04-19 at 18:14 -0700, b hamon wrote: After reading Jan's article about fatter tires in the latest BQ, I decided to try it on my All-Rounder. I'd gotten this frameset about three years ago and built it up with drop bars. (Although the height of the frame was a little short for my legs, the top tube was the right length for drops.) I've ridden it on numerous city and country rides and have done a couple of bike-camping overnights on it (longest rides on this have been several metric centuries). I have wrestled with the feel of this bike since building it up with 26 x 1.25 Paselas. Although the tires help up well, the feel of the 1.25 width seemed sort of harsh, and worse, squirrelly. In the absence of a pair of T-Serv tires just sitting around, I installed some 1.5 Paselas, and ran some errands while at work. I noticed the difference in handling pretty much right away. The bike rolled easily but cornered more gently and without as much of the squirrelly feeling I'd had with the skinnier tires. Just for fun, I also raised the handlebar about 1/2. Now the bike looks sort of odd because the handlebars are so close to the saddle; but I have a really short torso and had let go of the classic look of a road bike long ago anyway. What I have now is a more comfortable bike with a mellower ride quality. 1.5 isn't extraordinarily wide for a 559 to begin with. What's more, going by the chart on p. 20 of BQ Spring 2010, the 'stable yet nimble' zone for 559 extends roughly from 38mm wide to about 48mm. I'd try a 559 x 1.75 tire to see how that feels - it's squarely in the gray zone. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] fatter tires for 26 wheels
My 1996 A/R is shod with Pasela 26 x 1.25 tires and I like the feel of these very much. They are the cushiest tires I have, seem plenty fast and handle well. I run 700 x 25 or 700 x 28 Paselas on my other bikes. I don't find any of the vagueness or wandering Jan reported, however my bike has more geometric trail than the test bike used in BQ. My estimate is about 50-55 mm trail. It might be that smaller wheel bikes need a bit more trail. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] fatter tires for 26 wheels
On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 6:14 PM, b hamon periwinkle...@yahoo.com wrote: Do I feel slower? Well, I felt slower already but that's totally on me. The ride is smoother and more stable and that matters more to me than speed these days. I think this is a good experiment to do on bikes with 26 wheels. I'd like to hear from others who are running wider tires on 26 bikes they ride mostly on pavement. Beth Beth: I concur. My favorite 26 tire is the 1.75 Pasala. When I had a 56cm Atlantis, I used that tire and it was perfect for me: fast enough, cushy, great roller and cornerer. I miss having a 26 tired road-type bike. I like the 650b thing and my favorite tire of all time is the Hetre, but there's something really fun, spry, and tough about a 26-wheeled road-ish bike. I had a 26-wheeled Kogswell for a week, but then my buddy claimed it... as per plan. I wouldn't mind having another and I'd probably bite on a cheap (ha!) 55cm XO1 or 57-ish 1st gen All-Rounder. I'd run the 1.75 Pasala on that for sure. Lovely tire that. -- John Speare Spokane, WA USA http://cyclingspokane.blogspot.com/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] fatter tires for 26 wheels
Y'all haven't lived until you've ridden 559X1 (22 mm actual on 19 mm Sun M14A rims, no E) Specialized Turbos: 200 grams of pure powder puff comfort at 90/100; much better than 1.25 Paselas -- and more flat proof, too, here in goathead land. Now if someone would just make them in a 559X28. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] fatter tires for 26 wheels
And 1,500 miles on the rear of a fixed gear with loads, the tire changed before flats multiplied. On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 9:06 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote: Y'all haven't lived until you've ridden 559X1 (22 mm actual on 19 mm Sun M14A rims, no E) Specialized Turbos: 200 grams of pure powder puff comfort at 90/100; much better than 1.25 Paselas -- and more flat proof, too, here in goathead land. Now if someone would just make them in a 559X28. -- Patrick Moore Albuquerque, NM For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com (505) 227-0523 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] fatter tires for 26 wheels
The goathead proofness must be due to the width. Too hard to hit something with a tire that skinny, you just slip right between the little bastards! On Apr 19, 2010, at 21:06, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote: Y'all haven't lived until you've ridden 559X1 (22 mm actual on 19 mm Sun M14A rims, no E) Specialized Turbos: 200 grams of pure powder puff comfort at 90/100; much better than 1.25 Paselas -- and more flat proof, too, here in goathead land. Now if someone would just make them in a 559X28. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners- bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en . -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues
Hi Thomas, My first thought was that you might have a habit of getting the bike going cowboy style, with it leaned way over. You probably don't, but any sideload on a wheel like that is going to jack it up in short order. The other weird thought is... do you often lock your bike up where a car could hit the rear wheel when they park? Like on a sidewalk in a shopping district? I'd try to get some weight off the rear wheel by dropping the bar and/ or getting a longer stem. That will let you shift your body forward easily and fluidly, to unweight the rear wheel and saddle for bumps. I used to beat wheels down, until I started getting nicer ones. Your hubs and rims sound plenty nice enough, but it could be that a wheelbuilder (or you, it isn't rocket science) should tension and stress-relieve the next wheel before you ride it. I've had great luck with CR18s. A 250 lb rider just isn't that heavy to me (I'm 231 and losing). Definitely get the alignment checked - I have no experience with that, but I trust the people who've recommended it. Philip McMinnville, Ore On Apr 19, 10:02 am, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net wrote: Hi, all. I seek counsel. I weigh about 250 lbs. I often carry 10-15 lbs on a rear rack. I ride a Trek hybrid, sitting bolt-upright. (By the way, this Trek is about as Riv'd up as any Trek could be. Actual Riv relevance: Later this year I'll also be riding a Hillborne and any counsel I receive will apply to it for sure; maybe/maybe-not for the Trek. Also, the riding I do is very much non-clubby, non-race-y, and non-trivial in distance; this seems to match up with Riv philosophy and thus seems appropriate for this group.) I use 700x35 tires on 32- or 36-spoke wheels at about 60 psi. I ride 70-100 miles/week 12 months a year (I bet that'll rise when I get the Hillborne), over half on limestone trail. I'm actually pretty easy on the bike in general, avoiding obstacles/rough path where practical, lifting the wheel and slowing down when I don't avoid the hazard. My problem is that I haven't gotten more than 1000 miles on any rear wheel without complete failure (cracked hub, bent axle) or the need for repair (hub overhaul, multiple spoke breakage, rim *way* out-of- true-or-round). The wheels I've used include some cheapies and some good ones. Some were better to use than others. But all were okay to use (until they failed :( ). More wheel details later. My preliminary question is: should I simply expect to have these problems every thousand (or two) miles? That is, will I likely have problems like these at that rate no matter *what* wheel I have? If so, then my plan will likely be to go for a value proposition instead of a reliability one. That is, I'll settle with a cheap wheel, always having a backup, knowing that I'll have to replace/repair/adjust more often than I'd like. That'd be okay, I guess... though it seems wrong in some profound way; after all, I've literally never *had* to replace any of my non-Pasela tires. I've put at least 3000 miles on my most recent set and still *could* use the originals the Trek came with. (I went through 4 Paselas in short order, with all of them failing in the same way with a sidewall eruption. Too bad. I liked the gum sidewall look.) However, if these wheel problems are avoidable (yes, yes... I know... losing 80-90 pounds would go a long way; let's assume that's not happening short-term), what kind of wheel will avoid them? Wheels I've used thus far include: --- Shimano RM60 (Alivio-ish?) hub / 32 2|1.8|2mm spokes / cheapish Alex rim - lasted about 1000 miles before breaking spokes, eventually on 3 rides in a row --- 105 hub / 36 2mm spokes / Sun CR18 rim - lasted maybe a little over 1000 miles before 4 holes-worth of drive-side hub snapped off of the hub body --- Deore hub / 32 2mm spokes / Sun CR18 rim - lasted maybe 400 miles before breaking spokes on 3 or 4 rides in a row (had 2 of these on the the theory that the first one was not prepped properly... 2nd one was no different with prep) - eventually I bent an axle on one of these, the other one (having been re-laced and re-trued and overhauled) is now my snow/ice wheel and will see little mileage --- XT hub / 36 2|1.7|2mm spokes / Velocity Synergy OC rim - lasted around 1000 miles before periodic ka-tink ka-tink noise appeared in the hub; am currently looking into whether this is a fatal problem or simply a maintenance issue Now, if the current XT-hubbed wheel's problems turn out to be readily solvable (adjustment of bearings, regreasing, something like that) then I'm happy to stay with this kind of wheel. The spokes seem to maintain tension reasonably well and the rim has only minor touch-up every few hundred miles to keep it very true and round. I like the fact that the drive-side spokes are not *that* much more tight than the non-drive side because of the asymmetry. However, if it turns out that it *is* a fatal or
[RBW] Henry Coe Ride Report
Henry Coe Ride Report I logged on a few weeks ago and asked the listserv about experiences of Henry W. Coe Park. Got some great reports that fueled my excitement. It’s the biggest state run park in Northern California, 87,000 acres of open space. Certain parts are closed to cyclists though it is recognized as some of the best mountain biking in the greater bay area. Almost everyone I spoke to warned of the almost vertical climbs and descents. Even riders who I thought were in the same club suggested full suspension. My buddy Todd and I had planned an early morning departure last Monday but delayed until about 6pm to avoid riding in the rain. We departed from Berkeley and arrived in Briones about an hour after dark. We rode a fire road out from the park entrance about a mile and pushed up an extremely steep and muddy hill. This short ascent proved to be one of the most challenging moments of the trip. Todd spent the night a bit cold, and we were both soaked from the tall grasses we’d be tromping through. In the morning we were considering heading back home so he could pick up his thicker sleeping bag when alas I remembered stories of the VBL. Todd and I rode out to Walnut Creek to the headquarters. We both picked up some “Vapor Barrier Liners” and we agreed our dollars could not have been better spent. We went from wearing our down jackets inside our bags and shivering through the night to ditching the jackets and feeling more than cozy. Pretty incredible results for such a packable and inexpensive item. Grant and Mark gave us directions from Walnut Creek out to Livermore where Todd grew up. They seemed a bit doubtful about our ambitious journey but gave us some uplifting encouragement. We made it out for sandwiches and tea with Todd’s parents and then a good 10 miles into Mines Rd. before sunset. We found a lovely campsite on an unknowingly generous landowners’ space. It felt incredibly remote for being just 10 miles out of Livermore. The next day we continued along Mines Rd. until a welcomed stop at the Junction Café. It’s located at the junction of Mines Rd. and Hwy 138 and is of a different world. Giant Boar heads over the bar with mangled tusks, not a single guy without a camouflage baseball cap. Wonderful people, we felt warmly welcomed, humored perhaps. Had too much to eat and drink for our adventurous spirits and enjoyed some good games of horseshoe outside the restaurant. We departed from Mines Rd. soon after unto some private land for a mile or so and then into the beauty of Henry Coe. We spent 1 night and 2 full days in the park. Riding and pushing, pushing and riding. I’d say our time was about 50/50 between the 2. We crossed a dozen or so rivers and felt lost in the isolated beauty. From the park we rode down through Gilroy and into Downtown San Jose where we caught bus 181 to Fremont Bart and then homeward bound. It was an incredible 4 days. Refreshed and enlivened, Adam Pictures and some short videos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/39219...@n06/sets/72157623893960464/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: fatter tires for 26 wheels
On my Bob Brown custom, I have run Schwalbe 'Big Apples' in 26x2.0 and 26x3.5, Schwalbe 'Marathons' in 26x1.9 and 26x1.5 and Panaracer 'Pasela's' in 26x1.75, 26x1.5 and 26x1.25... and they all served their intended purposes rather well. My favorites out of all the aforementioned were the Schwalbe 'Marathons' in 26x1.5 by far for their mix speediness and cushiony goodness. However, my all-time favorite tire on that bike would be Panaracer 'T- Serv's' in 26x1.25... excellent flat resistance, multitude of ways I can inflate/deflate for various ride/road types and lots of wear before they go all bald on me. Very much like them. -Scott On Apr 19, 7:03 pm, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote: My 1996 A/R is shod with Pasela 26 x 1.25 tires and I like the feel of these very much. They are the cushiest tires I have, seem plenty fast and handle well. I run 700 x 25 or 700 x 28 Paselas on my other bikes. I don't find any of the vagueness or wandering Jan reported, however my bike has more geometric trail than the test bike used in BQ. My estimate is about 50-55 mm trail. It might be that smaller wheel bikes need a bit more trail. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] For Sale: Rivendell Romulus
FS - I am selling my Rivendell Romulus, 61 frame at: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bik/1700264714.html -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Lugged! Proper fork bend! 650B! Fenders! Fattish Tires! Riv-ish!
Bruce, You are a wizard. That bike is stunning. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Final round of stuff for sale
1) Swobo Jerseyhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/sets/72157622818019343/- was an XL, shrunk a bit, maybe to a L/M size. Thicker wool than current Swobo jersies. Little bit of a moth hole on the collar, little bit of shellac splatter on the front. Color is a little pinker than in photos. Really nice though! $25 shipped 2) Shimano Freewheelhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4490557039/- $10, free shipping 3) Sachs Freewheel http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/2369082421/- cogs great, body exploded on me. FREE (shipping only) 4) 22T X 58BCD chainringhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4490554719/- $10, free shipping 5) Onza pedals http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4536650085/ - the best of the '90s. It's like hanging out with Kurt Cobain Courtney Love, in fact I always referred to the left one as Kurt (he was left handed) and the right as Courtney - FREE (shipping only) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Henry Coe Ride Report
Awesome glad you made the trip work for you. looks like you had an adventure! On Apr 19, 9:26 pm, Adam oceanm...@gmail.com wrote: Henry Coe Ride Report I logged on a few weeks ago and asked the listserv about experiences of Henry W. Coe Park. Got some great reports that fueled my excitement. It’s the biggest state run park in Northern California, 87,000 acres of open space. Certain parts are closed to cyclists though it is recognized as some of the best mountain biking in the greater bay area. Almost everyone I spoke to warned of the almost vertical climbs and descents. Even riders who I thought were in the same club suggested full suspension. My buddy Todd and I had planned an early morning departure last Monday but delayed until about 6pm to avoid riding in the rain. We departed from Berkeley and arrived in Briones about an hour after dark. We rode a fire road out from the park entrance about a mile and pushed up an extremely steep and muddy hill. This short ascent proved to be one of the most challenging moments of the trip. Todd spent the night a bit cold, and we were both soaked from the tall grasses we’d be tromping through. In the morning we were considering heading back home so he could pick up his thicker sleeping bag when alas I remembered stories of the VBL. Todd and I rode out to Walnut Creek to the headquarters. We both picked up some “Vapor Barrier Liners” and we agreed our dollars could not have been better spent. We went from wearing our down jackets inside our bags and shivering through the night to ditching the jackets and feeling more than cozy. Pretty incredible results for such a packable and inexpensive item. Grant and Mark gave us directions from Walnut Creek out to Livermore where Todd grew up. They seemed a bit doubtful about our ambitious journey but gave us some uplifting encouragement. We made it out for sandwiches and tea with Todd’s parents and then a good 10 miles into Mines Rd. before sunset. We found a lovely campsite on an unknowingly generous landowners’ space. It felt incredibly remote for being just 10 miles out of Livermore. The next day we continued along Mines Rd. until a welcomed stop at the Junction Café. It’s located at the junction of Mines Rd. and Hwy 138 and is of a different world. Giant Boar heads over the bar with mangled tusks, not a single guy without a camouflage baseball cap. Wonderful people, we felt warmly welcomed, humored perhaps. Had too much to eat and drink for our adventurous spirits and enjoyed some good games of horseshoe outside the restaurant. We departed from Mines Rd. soon after unto some private land for a mile or so and then into the beauty of Henry Coe. We spent 1 night and 2 full days in the park. Riding and pushing, pushing and riding. I’d say our time was about 50/50 between the 2. We crossed a dozen or so rivers and felt lost in the isolated beauty. From the park we rode down through Gilroy and into Downtown San Jose where we caught bus 181 to Fremont Bart and then homeward bound. It was an incredible 4 days. Refreshed and enlivened, Adam Pictures and some short videos:http://www.flickr.com/photos/39219...@n06/sets/72157623893960464/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues
You might want to browse around Peter White's website, and see what he has to say about wheels: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/Wheels.asp I imagine that if you are going to get a Sam Hillborne, Rivendell is going to recommend either the Velocity Dyad or Mavic 719 rims. The Velocity Dyad's do not have a machined side wall. Machined side walls are created by removing metal to smooth out the braking surface, which potentially weakens the rim(although manufacturers can start with a thicker piece of aluminum in anticipation that part of the surface will be shaved off). Grant has written about how he prefers non- machined side walls for strength. What I want to know is: do rims with non-machined side walls brake worth a damn? Or, is the brake pad skipping all over the brake surface and making a terrible racket? Has anyone used Velocity Dyad rims before? Thanks. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues
Have one (Dyad) on our tandem and works fine. It was the replacement for the Mavic rim that failed. On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 10:50 PM, happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote: You might want to browse around Peter White's website, and see what he has to say about wheels: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/Wheels.asp I imagine that if you are going to get a Sam Hillborne, Rivendell is going to recommend either the Velocity Dyad or Mavic 719 rims. The Velocity Dyad's do not have a machined side wall. Machined side walls are created by removing metal to smooth out the braking surface, which potentially weakens the rim(although manufacturers can start with a thicker piece of aluminum in anticipation that part of the surface will be shaved off). Grant has written about how he prefers non- machined side walls for strength. What I want to know is: do rims with non-machined side walls brake worth a damn? Or, is the brake pad skipping all over the brake surface and making a terrible racket? Has anyone used Velocity Dyad rims before? Thanks. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym. ~Bill Nye, scientist guy -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
