Re: [RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues

2010-04-20 Thread cyclotourist
It was about 15 years ago, so I don't recall :-)  I think it was a T217,
does that sound right?  Their heavy touring rim at the time (mid-90's).
The Dyad had me worried as it doesn't have eyelets, but that has been a
non-issue.



On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 11:15 PM, happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:

 On Apr 19, 11:54 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
  Have one (Dyad) on our tandem and works fine.  It was the replacement for
  the Mavic rim that failed.
 

 Do you notice any difference in braking?  Was that a Mavic A719?

 Thanks.

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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym.  ~Bill Nye,
scientist guy

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[RBW] Re: fatter tires for 26 wheels

2010-04-20 Thread Philip Williamson
I was wondering if the front-end geometry of the Kogswells in the test
affected the sweet spot range of tire sizes for each wheel size. It
seems that a set of similarly sized Rivendells in the three wheel
sizes could be found, and the same tires used.

 Philip

On Apr 19, 7:03 pm, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote:
 My 1996 A/R is shod with Pasela 26 x 1.25 tires and I like the feel  
 of these very much.  They are the cushiest tires I have, seem plenty  
 fast and handle well.  I run 700 x 25 or 700 x 28 Paselas on my other  
 bikes.

 I don't find any of the vagueness or wandering Jan reported, however  
 my bike has more geometric trail than the test bike used in BQ.  My  
 estimate is about 50-55 mm trail.  It might be that smaller wheel  
 bikes need a bit more trail.

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Re: [RBW] fatter tires for 26 wheels

2010-04-20 Thread Bruce
Beth:

 I have 37mm (1 1/2) Paselas for a Rambouillet. I tend to ride at the same 
speed on them as I do on 28 mm Conti Ultra Gatorskins. They are more 
comfortable on coarse roads, and very reliable on wet roads.

Bruce





From: b hamon periwinkle...@yahoo.com
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Mon, April 19, 2010 8:14:13 PM
Subject: [RBW] fatter tires for 26 wheels



. I'd like to hear from others who are running wider tires on 26 bikes they 
ride mostly on pavement.
Beth


  

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[RBW] Re: fatter tires for 26 wheels

2010-04-20 Thread Angus
Beth,

I have run Panaracer Pasela 26x1.25 on my All-Rounder and they felt
like skinny tires.  I ran Ritchey 26x1.4 for many years, felt
smoother but measurably slower.  I recently went to Panaracer Ribmo
26x2.0 for durability and flat resistance.  Too few miles on the
Ribmos to judge them yet.

Angus

On Apr 19, 8:14 pm, b hamon periwinkle...@yahoo.com wrote:
 After reading Jan's article about fatter tires in the latest BQ, I decided to 
 try it on my All-Rounder. I'd gotten this frameset about three years ago and 
 built it up with drop bars. (Although the height of the frame was a little 
 short for my legs, the top tube was the right length for drops.) I've ridden 
 it on numerous city and country rides and have done a couple of bike-camping 
 overnights on it (longest rides on this have been several metric centuries). 
 I have wrestled with the feel of this bike since building it up with 26 x 
 1.25 Paselas. Although the tires help up well, the feel of the 1.25 width 
 seemed sort of harsh, and worse, squirrelly.

 In the absence of a pair of T-Serv tires just sitting around, I installed 
 some 1.5 Paselas, and ran some errands while at work. I noticed the 
 difference in handling pretty much right away. The bike rolled easily but 
 cornered more gently and without as much of the squirrelly feeling I'd had 
 with the skinnier tires. Just for fun, I also raised the handlebar about 
 1/2. Now the bike looks sort of odd because the handlebars are so close to 
 the saddle; but I have a really short torso and had let go of the classic 
 look of a road bike long ago anyway. What I have now is a more comfortable 
 bike with a mellower ride quality.

 Do I feel slower? Well, I felt slower already but that's totally on me. The 
 ride is smoother and more stable and that matters more to me than speed these 
 days. I think this is a good experiment to do on bikes with 26 wheels. I'd 
 like to hear from others who are running wider tires on 26 bikes they ride 
 mostly on pavement.
 Beth

 http://bikelovejones1.blogspot.com/

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[RBW] RBW Saddle Height question

2010-04-20 Thread Jay LePree
Hi all:

One of the things I always wanted to know but was afraid to ask.  The
RBW method for determining saddle height is PBH - 10 to 11.  The
measurement is made from center of the cranks (the spindle of the
bottom bracket) to the top of the saddle.

Here are the questions.  How many of you use this formula?  Do you
adjust it if you place the saddle all the way back on its rails?
(Relateddon't laugh...where does one measure the top of the
saddle...the area where you sit, the area right over the seat post?)

I ask because my saddle height seems to be shorter than this (with MKS
pedals and Addidas Sambas)..more like PBH - 15.  I would like to raise
it to Riv recommendations, but I was wondering what your experiences
have been.

Regards,

Jay
Demarest, NJ

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[RBW] Re: fatter tires for 26 wheels

2010-04-20 Thread EricP
Been riding my Surly LHT with Big Apple 26x2.0 and am content.  Had a
pair on the now departed Atlantis.  Keep coming back to them for a
combination of cush, traction and cornering ability.  Plus, they look
cool.  Been running them at pretty high pressures, though.

Because of my weight and other factors, something from about 45 to
50mm wide seems to work best for me on a 26 wheel bike.  Very much
the wide end of Jan's recommendation.  Then again, I find the Sam
Hillborne rides best on tires between 35 and 40mm wide.  So what do I
know?

If I were a light rider would love to try the Schwalbe Kojak model
in 26x2.0.  Those might be the first tires in a long time I've lusted
after.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN



On Apr 20, 5:35 am, Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 Beth,

 I have run Panaracer Pasela 26x1.25 on my All-Rounder and they felt
 like skinny tires.  I ran Ritchey 26x1.4 for many years, felt
 smoother but measurably slower.  I recently went to Panaracer Ribmo
 26x2.0 for durability and flat resistance.  Too few miles on the
 Ribmos to judge them yet.

 Angus

 On Apr 19, 8:14 pm, b hamon periwinkle...@yahoo.com wrote:

  After reading Jan's article about fatter tires in the latest BQ, I decided 
  to try it on my All-Rounder. I'd gotten this frameset about three years ago 
  and built it up with drop bars. (Although the height of the frame was a 
  little short for my legs, the top tube was the right length for drops.) 
  I've ridden it on numerous city and country rides and have done a couple of 
  bike-camping overnights on it (longest rides on this have been several 
  metric centuries). I have wrestled with the feel of this bike since 
  building it up with 26 x 1.25 Paselas. Although the tires help up well, the 
  feel of the 1.25 width seemed sort of harsh, and worse, squirrelly.

  In the absence of a pair of T-Serv tires just sitting around, I installed 
  some 1.5 Paselas, and ran some errands while at work. I noticed the 
  difference in handling pretty much right away. The bike rolled easily but 
  cornered more gently and without as much of the squirrelly feeling I'd had 
  with the skinnier tires. Just for fun, I also raised the handlebar about 
  1/2. Now the bike looks sort of odd because the handlebars are so close to 
  the saddle; but I have a really short torso and had let go of the classic 
  look of a road bike long ago anyway. What I have now is a more comfortable 
  bike with a mellower ride quality.

  Do I feel slower? Well, I felt slower already but that's totally on me. The 
  ride is smoother and more stable and that matters more to me than speed 
  these days. I think this is a good experiment to do on bikes with 26 
  wheels. I'd like to hear from others who are running wider tires on 26 
  bikes they ride mostly on pavement.
  Beth

 http://bikelovejones1.blogspot.com/

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Re: [RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues

2010-04-20 Thread Steve Hemmelgarn
Regarding the question about Velocity Dyad rims:

I built up a set of wheels for my touring bike (Trek 520) with a Schmidt front 
hub and an XT rear. Have been using them for more than a year with no problems. 
I like them a lot and plan to use them on my planned Hunquapillar.

Steve Hemmelgarn





From: happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Tue, April 20, 2010 1:50:41 AM
Subject: [RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues

You might want to browse around Peter White's website, and see what he
has to say about wheels:

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/Wheels.asp

I imagine that if you are going to get a Sam Hillborne, Rivendell is
going to recommend either the Velocity Dyad or Mavic 719 rims.  The
Velocity Dyad's do not have a machined side wall.  Machined side walls
are created by removing metal to smooth out the braking surface, which
potentially weakens the rim(although manufacturers can start with a
thicker piece of aluminum in anticipation that part of the surface
will be shaved off).  Grant has written about how he prefers non-
machined side walls for strength.

What I want to know is: do rims with non-machined side walls brake
worth a damn?  Or, is the brake pad skipping all over the brake
surface and making a terrible racket?  Has anyone used Velocity Dyad
rims before?

Thanks.

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Re: [RBW] RBW Saddle Height question

2010-04-20 Thread Bruce
Jay:

After numerous saddle tweaks, I found that all my saddles ended up at 67 cm in 
height from the BB center, and my PBH is 78, so I'd say the Riv formula works 
really well for me. I measure through the center-line of the seat post. Moving 
the saddle back or forward changes the measurement due to the angle I pitch the 
saddle at, so yes, I have to raise or lower the seat post if I slide the saddle 
around.  Also, if I wear thick soled shoes (like KSwiss hikers), I have to 
raise the saddle for efficient pedaling. My standard is based on Addidas 
Sambas, or my Summer sandals (Teva and Nike) which have the same sole thickness.

Rather than tune your saddle to numbers on the riv site, you might try small 
changes in height to see where the sweet spot is for you. That's giving you an 
efficient stroke (you feel all the leg power going into the pedals when 
climbing or accelerating) and you have no pain in front and above your knees or 
just behind your knees. Then see how your numbers compare. You can of course 
just try the riv suggestions and see how they go, and tweak from there. small 
increments though regardless.

Bruce





From: Jay LePree lep...@optonline.net
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Tue, April 20, 2010 6:46:17 AM
Subject: [RBW] RBW Saddle Height question

Hi all:

The RBW method for determining saddle height is PBH - 10 to 11. 

 How many of you use this formula?  
Do youadjust it if you place the saddle all the way back on its rails?
(Relateddon't laugh...where does one measure the top of the
saddle...the area where you sit, the area right over the seat post?)


  

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[RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues

2010-04-20 Thread Leslie
On Apr 20, 1:50 am, happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I imagine that if you are going to get a Sam Hillborne, Rivendell is
 going to recommend either the Velocity Dyad or Mavic 719 rims.   The
 Velocity Dyad's do not have a machined side wall.  Machined side walls
 are created by removing metal to smooth out the braking surface, which
 potentially weakens the rim(although manufacturers can start with a
 thicker piece of aluminum in anticipation that part of the surface
 will be shaved off).  Grant has written about how he prefers non-
 machined side walls for strength.

 What I want to know is: do rims with non-machined side walls brake
 worth a damn?   Or, is the brake pad skipping all over the brake
 surface and making a terrible racket?  Has anyone used Velocity Dyad
 rims before?

I had Rich build me a set of wheels on XT hubs and Dyad rims. 36h,
both front and back; wanted it to have less weight and tension per
spoke, but still a strong rim at that spoke count.   Per Grant's
aforementioned explanation, I was wanting unmachined; so Rich and I
talked a good while about machined versus unmachined.  But in
checking, he couldn't get Dyads that were unmachined at the time, we
had to go with machined instead.  However, he said a machined Dyad is
plenty strong, stronger than most other unmachined rims (unmachined
Synergies, for example).

I don't have a ton of miles on 'em yet, just built the bike in March.
I did twenty-five miles on the first of the April, then the next day I
did 35 miles on the Creeper trail (Abingdon to Damascus and back).
Just some shorter rides last weekend with my daughter at Steele Creek
(~5mil each), and just a couple of miles w/ the family this past
weekend.Last night my son and I did 15mi on the Greenbelt.  I'm
runnin' 32 Paselas, no problems yet.

Oh, and I was at 255 at Christmas, I'm down to 233 now, my initial
goal is, 199... still a ways to go

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[RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues

2010-04-20 Thread JoelMatthews
Not a heavy rider, but would like to join the pro-Dyad chorus. The
Rock n' road has 40 spoke Dyads matched with Maxi Car hubs.  The
wheels ride wonderful with full load or just me.

On Apr 20, 7:36 am, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Apr 20, 1:50 am, happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:

  I imagine that if you are going to get a Sam Hillborne, Rivendell is
  going to recommend either the Velocity Dyad or Mavic 719 rims.   The
  Velocity Dyad's do not have a machined side wall.  Machined side walls
  are created by removing metal to smooth out the braking surface, which
  potentially weakens the rim(although manufacturers can start with a
  thicker piece of aluminum in anticipation that part of the surface
  will be shaved off).  Grant has written about how he prefers non-
  machined side walls for strength.

  What I want to know is: do rims with non-machined side walls brake
  worth a damn?   Or, is the brake pad skipping all over the brake
  surface and making a terrible racket?  Has anyone used Velocity Dyad
  rims before?

 I had Rich build me a set of wheels on XT hubs and Dyad rims. 36h,
 both front and back; wanted it to have less weight and tension per
 spoke, but still a strong rim at that spoke count.   Per Grant's
 aforementioned explanation, I was wanting unmachined; so Rich and I
 talked a good while about machined versus unmachined.  But in
 checking, he couldn't get Dyads that were unmachined at the time, we
 had to go with machined instead.  However, he said a machined Dyad is
 plenty strong, stronger than most other unmachined rims (unmachined
 Synergies, for example).

 I don't have a ton of miles on 'em yet, just built the bike in March.
 I did twenty-five miles on the first of the April, then the next day I
 did 35 miles on the Creeper trail (Abingdon to Damascus and back).
 Just some shorter rides last weekend with my daughter at Steele Creek
 (~5mil each), and just a couple of miles w/ the family this past
 weekend.    Last night my son and I did 15mi on the Greenbelt.  I'm
 runnin' 32 Paselas, no problems yet.

 Oh, and I was at 255 at Christmas, I'm down to 233 now, my initial
 goal is, 199... still a ways to go

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RE: [RBW] fatter tires for 26 wheels

2010-04-20 Thread Frederick, Steve
I like the Pasela 1.5 tires on my XO-1.  I like the Pasela 1.75 on the tandem 
too, and would like to try them on the XO someday.  They fit fine--I tried it!  
Them big, aero profile tandem rims looked sorta sporty on the B-stone...B-)

Steve

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com]on Behalf Of Steve Palincsar
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 9:55 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] fatter tires for 26 wheels


On Mon, 2010-04-19 at 18:14 -0700, b hamon wrote:
 After reading Jan's article about fatter tires in the latest BQ, I
 decided to try it on my All-Rounder. I'd gotten this frameset about
 three years ago and built it up with drop bars. (Although the height
 of the frame was a little short for my legs, the top tube was the
 right length for drops.) I've ridden it on numerous city and country
 rides and have done a couple of bike-camping overnights on it (longest
 rides on this have been several metric centuries). I have wrestled
 with the feel of this bike since building it up with 26 x 1.25
 Paselas. Although the tires help up well, the feel of the 1.25 width
 seemed sort of harsh, and worse, squirrelly. 
 
 In the absence of a pair of T-Serv tires just sitting around, I
 installed some 1.5 Paselas, and ran some errands while at work. I
 noticed the difference in handling pretty much right away. The bike
 rolled easily but cornered more gently and without as much of the
 squirrelly feeling I'd had with the skinnier tires. Just for fun, I
 also raised the handlebar about 1/2. Now the bike looks sort of odd
 because the handlebars are so close to the saddle; but I have a really
 short torso and had let go of the classic look of a road bike long
 ago anyway. What I have now is a more comfortable bike with a mellower
 ride quality.
 



1.5 isn't extraordinarily wide for a 559 to begin with.  What's more,
going by the chart on p. 20 of BQ Spring 2010, the 'stable yet nimble'
zone for 559 extends roughly from 38mm wide to about 48mm.  I'd try a
559 x 1.75 tire to see how that feels - it's squarely in the gray
zone.



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[RBW] Re: RBW Saddle Height question

2010-04-20 Thread Tim McNamara


On Apr 20, 2010, at 6:46 AM, Jay LePree wrote:


Hi all:

One of the things I always wanted to know but was afraid to ask.  The
RBW method for determining saddle height is PBH - 10 to 11.


There's a lot of variation in this and a lot of factors (e.g., how  
far your saddle is pushed back), whether you pedal toe down, heel  
down or foot about level, etc.  Your flexibility is also an issue.   
So is the relative strength of different muscle groups.  Bike fit is  
a dynamic rather than static thing.  Just measuring lengths, which  
most scientific fitting systems do, is not enough.


Through years of trial and error adjustments, reading lots of things  
on the topic, etc., I have arrived at a saddle height that is PBH  
-9.5 cm.


My advice is raise the saddle until your hips start rocking and then  
lower it a bit.  Move it fore and aft until your weight distribution  
between the saddle and the handlebars is comfortable.  Then do the  
measurements.


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[RBW] Re: RBW Saddle Height question

2010-04-20 Thread stevep33
The formula is spot on for me.  PBH 81.5 SH 71.
I check it by putting the heel of my foot on the pedal with that crank
rotated to about 6 or 7 o'clock; if my leg is fairly straight and my
hips don't rock up/down while trying to keep my heel on the pedal,
then the saddle height is about right for me. This rough check works
well for me.  Finer adjustments are just by feel.

On Apr 20, 8:32 am, Bruce fullylug...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Jay:

 After numerous saddle tweaks, I found that all my saddles ended up at 67 cm 
 in height from the BB center, and my PBH is 78, so I'd say the Riv formula 
 works really well for me. I measure through the center-line of the seat post. 
 Moving the saddle back or forward changes the measurement due to the angle I 
 pitch the saddle at, so yes, I have to raise or lower the seat post if I 
 slide the saddle around.  Also, if I wear thick soled shoes (like KSwiss 
 hikers), I have to raise the saddle for efficient pedaling. My standard is 
 based on Addidas Sambas, or my Summer sandals (Teva and Nike) which have the 
 same sole thickness.

 Rather than tune your saddle to numbers on the riv site, you might try small 
 changes in height to see where the sweet spot is for you. That's giving you 
 an efficient stroke (you feel all the leg power going into the pedals when 
 climbing or accelerating) and you have no pain in front and above your knees 
 or just behind your knees. Then see how your numbers compare. You can of 
 course just try the riv suggestions and see how they go, and tweak from 
 there. small increments though regardless.

 Bruce

 
 From: Jay LePree lep...@optonline.net
 To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Tue, April 20, 2010 6:46:17 AM
 Subject: [RBW] RBW Saddle Height question

 Hi all:

 The RBW method for determining saddle height is PBH - 10 to 11.

  How many of you use this formula?  
 Do youadjust it if you place the saddle all the way back on its rails?
 (Relateddon't laugh...where does one measure the top of the
 saddle...the area where you sit, the area right over the seat post?)

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[RBW] Re: RBW Saddle Height question

2010-04-20 Thread newenglandbike
I found that Rivendell's formula SH - 10 or 11 puts the seat a tad low
for me. My experience has been PBH - 9.0 cm.I'm also positive
I'm not under-measuring my pbh, as I've measured it myself with one
other person, pulled up until it hurt, had it done at the LBS and it's
always the same (or below my biggest measurement). I find that my
knees are pretty sensitive to a seat that's too low, even by 1 or 2
cm, unless I'm riding standing out of the saddle all the time.

Other potentially influencing data points for my SH:

-MKS touring pedals
-usually ride in a pair of sneakers
-size 10
-do not ride on my toes
-brooks b17/nitto crystal fellow

If the fronts of your knees feel sore after a ride, a good first thing
to check is your seat height, to make sure it's not too low.  I've
read that a good method for finding the sweet spot is to set the
saddle too high (which in terms of rideability, is impossible to
ignore even for short distances) and incrementally lower it until you
can ride the bike normally.



Matt



On Apr 20, 8:32 am, Bruce fullylug...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Jay:

 After numerous saddle tweaks, I found that all my saddles ended up at 67 cm 
 in height from the BB center, and my PBH is 78, so I'd say the Riv formula 
 works really well for me. I measure through the center-line of the seat post. 
 Moving the saddle back or forward changes the measurement due to the angle I 
 pitch the saddle at, so yes, I have to raise or lower the seat post if I 
 slide the saddle around.  Also, if I wear thick soled shoes (like KSwiss 
 hikers), I have to raise the saddle for efficient pedaling. My standard is 
 based on Addidas Sambas, or my Summer sandals (Teva and Nike) which have the 
 same sole thickness.

 Rather than tune your saddle to numbers on the riv site, you might try small 
 changes in height to see where the sweet spot is for you. That's giving you 
 an efficient stroke (you feel all the leg power going into the pedals when 
 climbing or accelerating) and you have no pain in front and above your knees 
 or just behind your knees. Then see how your numbers compare. You can of 
 course just try the riv suggestions and see how they go, and tweak from 
 there. small increments though regardless.

 Bruce

 
 From: Jay LePree lep...@optonline.net
 To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Tue, April 20, 2010 6:46:17 AM
 Subject: [RBW] RBW Saddle Height question

 Hi all:

 The RBW method for determining saddle height is PBH - 10 to 11.

  How many of you use this formula?  
 Do youadjust it if you place the saddle all the way back on its rails?
 (Relateddon't laugh...where does one measure the top of the
 saddle...the area where you sit, the area right over the seat post?)

 --
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[RBW] Re: Final round of stuff for sale

2010-04-20 Thread cyclotourist
Excellent, glad folks can use some of this stuff!  Everything is spoken for
except the 22T X 58BCD
chainringhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4490554719/- $10,
free shipping.

Also, the Trek 330
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4501357803/from previous
listings is still looking for a good home.  I'll start parting
it out later this week if nobody wants it as is.

On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 10:33 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.comwrote:

 1)  Swobo 
 Jerseyhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/sets/72157622818019343/- 
 was an XL, shrunk a bit, maybe to a L/M size.  Thicker wool than current
 Swobo jersies.  Little bit of a moth hole on the collar, little bit of
 shellac splatter on the front.  Color is a little pinker than in photos.
 Really nice though!  $25 shipped

 2)  Shimano Freewheelhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4490557039/- 
 $10, free shipping

 3)  Sachs Freewheelhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/2369082421/- 
 cogs great, body exploded on me.  FREE (shipping only)

 4)  22T X 58BCD 
 chainringhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4490554719/- $10, free 
 shipping

 5)  Onza pedals http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4536650085/ -
 the best of the '90s.  It's like hanging out with Kurt Cobain Courtney
 Love, in fact I always referred to the left one as Kurt (he was left handed)
 and the right as Courtney - FREE (shipping only)




-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym.  ~Bill Nye,
scientist guy

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Re: [RBW] fatter tires for 26 wheels

2010-04-20 Thread PATRICK MOORE
On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 7:31 AM, Frederick, Steve frede...@mail.lib.msu.edu
 wrote:


 On Mon, 2010-04-19 at 18:14 -0700, b hamon wrote:
 1.5 isn't extraordinarily wide for a 559 to begin with.  What's more,
 going by the chart on p. 20 of BQ Spring 2010, the 'stable yet nimble'
 zone for 559 extends roughly from 38mm wide to about 48mm.


Well, well, stable but nimble is going to depend on the frame. On my Riv
Roads, the 22mm Turbos and 23 mm Conti GPs are perfectly stable -- much
more so than a 1.25 Pasela on a typical, early '90s unsuspended mountain
bike.


-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com
(505) 227-0523

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[RBW] Re: RBW Saddle Height question

2010-04-20 Thread Michael_S
From the other side of the range... My PBH is 86 but a SH somewhere
around 72.5-73cm works best for me. I always measure on the centerline
even though I'm one of those long femured people who slides the saddle
back, even with 71.5 degree SA's.  I have had bike fitting done as
well and their recommendation is always higher than my hamstrings can
handle.

~Mike~

On Apr 20, 7:01 am, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote:
 On Apr 20, 2010, at 6:46 AM, Jay LePree wrote:

  Hi all:

  One of the things I always wanted to know but was afraid to ask.  The
  RBW method for determining saddle height is PBH - 10 to 11.

 There's a lot of variation in this and a lot of factors (e.g., how  
 far your saddle is pushed back), whether you pedal toe down, heel  
 down or foot about level, etc.  Your flexibility is also an issue.  
 So is the relative strength of different muscle groups.  Bike fit is  
 a dynamic rather than static thing.  Just measuring lengths, which  
 most scientific fitting systems do, is not enough.

 Through years of trial and error adjustments, reading lots of things  
 on the topic, etc., I have arrived at a saddle height that is PBH  
 -9.5 cm.

 My advice is raise the saddle until your hips start rocking and then  
 lower it a bit.  Move it fore and aft until your weight distribution  
 between the saddle and the handlebars is comfortable.  Then do the  
 measurements.

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Re: [RBW] RBW Saddle Height question

2010-04-20 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I believe from my experience that finding the right height, horizontal
position and tilt for a saddle is a matter of personal experience and
preference, with rules being simply a more convenient starting point than,
say, starting with your saddle resting on the top tube.

So the question becomes: how do you feel presently? Do you feel the need or
desire to stretch your legs more? Raise the saddle a cm or so. Do you feel
as if you can't get power over the top of the stroke? Try pushing it back a
cm. Do you feel as if it is slowly slicing you in half? Lower it a cm. And
so on. For me, it took 20 years of riding before I learned my preferences,
and even now I continue to adjust slightly, by 5 mm increments, as season,
shoes and astrological signs vary (just kidding about the signs; I always do
my yearly height tuning in Mars/Ram.)

Seriously, if you are inexperienced, start with the Riv instructions and
adjust per the above.

On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 5:46 AM, Jay LePree lep...@optonline.net wrote:

 Hi all:

 One of the things I always wanted to know but was afraid to ask.  The
 RBW method for determining saddle height is PBH - 10 to 11.  The
 measurement is made from center of the cranks (the spindle of the
 bottom bracket) to the top of the saddle.

 Here are the questions.  How many of you use this formula?  Do you
 adjust it if you place the saddle all the way back on its rails?
 (Relateddon't laugh...where does one measure the top of the
 saddle...the area where you sit, the area right over the seat post?)

 I ask because my saddle height seems to be shorter than this (with MKS
 pedals and Addidas Sambas)..more like PBH - 15.  I would like to raise
 it to Riv recommendations, but I was wondering what your experiences
 have been.

 Regards,

 Jay
 Demarest, NJ

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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com
(505) 227-0523

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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread Richard
Here's a Sugino crank to consider.

http://www.velo-orange.com/suoldlotr.html

I believe the pins and ramps are not a big deal if the front
derailleur is friction, not STI or similar.  The following is from
Peter White's web site, and might also be useful.

http://peterwhitecycles.com/chainrings.asp

On Apr 20, 5:06 am, happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Hi,

 What's an alternative to the Sugino XD2 that has ramps and pins (all
 silver finish of course).

 How big a difference is there with no ramps and pins?

 Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread Mitch Browne
Having just made the transition from my 2007 Salsa Casseroll Triple
featuring stock / full Shimano STI 105 shifting to my Atlantis with
bar end shifters / Campy FD / Deore XT RD / Sugino XD2 triple I can
say I actually like the friction shifting better but find no
appreciable difference in ramps pin etc.

On Apr 20, 7:33 am, Richard rsv...@netzero.net wrote:
 Here's a Sugino crank to consider.

 http://www.velo-orange.com/suoldlotr.html

 I believe the pins and ramps are not a big deal if the front
 derailleur is friction, not STI or similar.  The following is from
 Peter White's web site, and might also be useful.

 http://peterwhitecycles.com/chainrings.asp

 On Apr 20, 5:06 am, happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:

  Hi,

  What's an alternative to the Sugino XD2 that has ramps and pins (all
  silver finish of course).

  How big a difference is there with no ramps and pins?

  Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: fatter tires for 26 wheels

2010-04-20 Thread Mojo
I would like to echo Patrick's thoughts. Beth, Patrick, and I are all
riding Rivendell 26ers, with higher trail than the Kogswells used in
the BQ tests. My bike is a 1996 Allrounder. After several tries at
smaller tires (Such as Ritchey Tom Slicks) and larger tires (such as
Marathon XRs), I found my happy place with the 1.5inch Marathon Racer.
It seems to have few compromises for road and light dirt riding.

On Apr 19, 7:55 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Mon, 2010-04-19 at 18:14 -0700, b hamon wrote:
  After reading Jan's article about fatter tires in the latest BQ, I
  decided to try it on my All-Rounder. I'd gotten this frameset about
  three years ago and built it up with drop bars. (Although the height
  of the frame was a little short for my legs, the top tube was the
  right length for drops.) I've ridden it on numerous city and country
  rides and have done a couple of bike-camping overnights on it (longest
  rides on this have been several metric centuries). I have wrestled
  with the feel of this bike since building it up with 26 x 1.25
  Paselas. Although the tires help up well, the feel of the 1.25 width
  seemed sort of harsh, and worse, squirrelly.

  In the absence of a pair of T-Serv tires just sitting around, I
  installed some 1.5 Paselas, and ran some errands while at work. I
  noticed the difference in handling pretty much right away. The bike
  rolled easily but cornered more gently and without as much of the
  squirrelly feeling I'd had with the skinnier tires. Just for fun, I
  also raised the handlebar about 1/2. Now the bike looks sort of odd
  because the handlebars are so close to the saddle; but I have a really
  short torso and had let go of the classic look of a road bike long
  ago anyway. What I have now is a more comfortable bike with a mellower
  ride quality.

 1.5 isn't extraordinarily wide for a 559 to begin with.  What's more,
 going by the chart on p. 20 of BQ Spring 2010, the 'stable yet nimble'
 zone for 559 extends roughly from 38mm wide to about 48mm.  I'd try a
 559 x 1.75 tire to see how that feels - it's squarely in the gray
 zone.

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Re: [RBW] RBW Saddle Height question

2010-04-20 Thread Bill Connell
On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 6:46 AM, Jay LePree lep...@optonline.net wrote:
 Hi all:

 One of the things I always wanted to know but was afraid to ask.  The
 RBW method for determining saddle height is PBH - 10 to 11.  The
 measurement is made from center of the cranks (the spindle of the
 bottom bracket) to the top of the saddle.

 Here are the questions.  How many of you use this formula?  Do you
 adjust it if you place the saddle all the way back on its rails?
 (Relateddon't laugh...where does one measure the top of the
 saddle...the area where you sit, the area right over the seat post?)

 I ask because my saddle height seems to be shorter than this (with MKS
 pedals and Addidas Sambas)..more like PBH - 15.  I would like to raise
 it to Riv recommendations, but I was wondering what your experiences
 have been.


I'll mostly echo what others have said: the Riv method is a great
starting point, but like everything else in bike fit, the details can
vary quite a bit. Tim's note to put the saddle up until your hips rock
then back it off a bit is good too. Make small adjustments, ride,
repeat. I can do this for days when i'm setting up a new bike, or
especially if i'm trying a new saddle. All of those parts have
different dimensions, so you just have to tweak.

Once you figure out what you're happy with, noting the resulting
measurements can make it easier to set up the next bike for yourself,
but the numbers themselves aren't important otherwise.

-- 
Bill Connell
St. Paul, MN

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[RBW] Re: RBW Saddle Height question

2010-04-20 Thread Mojo
It worked perfectly for me; 89.2 PBH and settled on a saddle height of
79.3.

On Apr 20, 5:46 am, Jay LePree lep...@optonline.net wrote:
 Hi all:

 One of the things I always wanted to know but was afraid to ask.  The
 RBW method for determining saddle height is PBH - 10 to 11.  The
 measurement is made from center of the cranks (the spindle of the
 bottom bracket) to the top of the saddle.

 Here are the questions.  How many of you use this formula?  Do you
 adjust it if you place the saddle all the way back on its rails?
 (Relateddon't laugh...where does one measure the top of the
 saddle...the area where you sit, the area right over the seat post?)

 I ask because my saddle height seems to be shorter than this (with MKS
 pedals and Addidas Sambas)..more like PBH - 15.  I would like to raise
 it to Riv recommendations, but I was wondering what your experiences
 have been.

 Regards,

 Jay
 Demarest, NJ

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[RBW] Re: RBW Saddle Height question

2010-04-20 Thread Angus
Works well for me:

PBH: 89cm, Saddle Height 79cm.

If I go through all the LeMond formulas (which I believe came from a
French cycling team he road for early on) I end up at 79cm.

Angus


On Apr 20, 6:46 am, Jay LePree lep...@optonline.net wrote:
 Hi all:

 One of the things I always wanted to know but was afraid to ask.  The
 RBW method for determining saddle height is PBH - 10 to 11.  The
 measurement is made from center of the cranks (the spindle of the
 bottom bracket) to the top of the saddle.

 Here are the questions.  How many of you use this formula?  Do you
 adjust it if you place the saddle all the way back on its rails?
 (Relateddon't laugh...where does one measure the top of the
 saddle...the area where you sit, the area right over the seat post?)

 I ask because my saddle height seems to be shorter than this (with MKS
 pedals and Addidas Sambas)..more like PBH - 15.  I would like to raise
 it to Riv recommendations, but I was wondering what your experiences
 have been.

 Regards,

 Jay
 Demarest, NJ

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[RBW] Re: RBW Saddle Height question

2010-04-20 Thread Mike
PBH: 91cm, SH: 80cm.

I have four bikes and the saddle is at the same height on all of them.
I ride two of the bikes with platform pedals and two with SPDs. Like
others have said, the RBW system is a great starting place and get
definitely get you close to where you want to be. Good luck.

--mike

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Re: [RBW] Re: RBW Saddle Height question

2010-04-20 Thread RM
My PBH: 87cm, SH: 76cm. 11cm difference

My saddle height was established 10 years ago during two training camps and 
bike fits at the Boulder Center for Sports Medicine with Dr Andy Pruitt and has 
been spot on for my comfort ever since. There is no black magic to Rivendell's 
fit formula, it's about right in the center of what works for most people's 
bio-geometry.

Rob

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[RBW] Amos?

2010-04-20 Thread D. Goff
Any new rumors on the Amos?

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[RBW] Re: strong wheels

2010-04-20 Thread RoadieRyan
..ok so besides than the aqueducts sanitation, roads,  medicine,
education, public health, irrigation  what have the Romans ever done
for US!

Life of Brian

On Apr 19, 5:54 pm, Mojo gjtra...@yahoo.com wrote:
  Costly but worth the money.

 Gee, then the relatively inexpensive Shimanos, with better double lip
 seals that actually keep out water, and bearings that can actually be
 adjusted are a screaming deal. The Phil hubs are pretty, and the
 company's service is very good. Other than that...well they do have
 status.

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Re: [RBW] For Sale: Rivendell Romulus

2010-04-20 Thread Rob Harrison
Am I correct in thinking the largest tires you can fit with fenders on  
the Romulus are 28s, and without fenders 37s?


I _think_ this is why I need a 650b bike: Using the tire pressure  
spreadsheet I need at least a 35mm tire to get the rear tire down into  
the normal range of pressure. I'm running 28s on my RB-T now, but the  
spreadsheet suggests 120 lbs, figuring me, bike and luggage at 246  
lbs, and a 65/35 rear/front weight distribution 'cause I have  
Albatross bars fitted.  The max inflation for the Top Contact tires is  
95 lbs. I've been inflating the rear tire to ~110 lbs without problems  
so far, but it can't be good for the wheel.


So the Romulus would work for me if I used a 35-37mm tire, but that  
rules out fenders. Maybe not a wise choice in Seattle.


Rob in Seattle


On Apr 19, 2010, at 6:02 PM, NotSoSpeedy wrote:



FS - I am selling my Rivendell Romulus, 61 frame at:

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bik/1700264714.html



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Re: [RBW] For Sale: Rivendell Romulus

2010-04-20 Thread nathan spindel
I've asked about the tire clearance limits of the Rom before and almost 
everyone says with fenders, no bigger than 32s. Although _maybe_ this changes 
with the new Paul Racer M…?

It sounds like a Hillborne or Hilsen would fit your needs, Rob. :) 

-nathan

On Apr 20, 2010, at 11:28 AM, Rob Harrison robha...@gmail.com wrote:

 Am I correct in thinking the largest tires you can fit with fenders on the 
 Romulus are 28s, and without fenders 37s?
 
 I _think_ this is why I need a 650b bike: Using the tire pressure spreadsheet 
 I need at least a 35mm tire to get the rear tire down into the normal range 
 of pressure. I'm running 28s on my RB-T now, but the spreadsheet suggests 120 
 lbs, figuring me, bike and luggage at 246 lbs, and a 65/35 rear/front weight 
 distribution 'cause I have Albatross bars fitted.  The max inflation for the 
 Top Contact tires is 95 lbs. I've been inflating the rear tire to ~110 lbs 
 without problems so far, but it can't be good for the wheel.
 
 So the Romulus would work for me if I used a 35-37mm tire, but that rules out 
 fenders. Maybe not a wise choice in Seattle.
 
 Rob in Seattle
 
 
 On Apr 19, 2010, at 6:02 PM, NotSoSpeedy wrote:
 
 
 FS - I am selling my Rivendell Romulus, 61 frame at:
 
 http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bik/1700264714.html
 
 
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Re: [RBW] cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread CycloFiend
on 4/20/10 3:06 AM, happyriding at happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
 What's an alternative to the Sugino XD2 that has ramps and pins (all
 silver finish of course).

Just a point that the ramps/pins are a function of the chainrings, not the
crank.  

 How big a difference is there with no ramps and pins?

With friction/manual shifting, little to none.

I'm running a 38/48 on the Hilsen right now with unpinned (pinless?) rings
on the Sugino , and don't notice a spec o' difference versus the same sized
ones which were on my Ritchey crankset.

- J

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Send In Your Photos! - Here's how: http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines

The bike between her legs was like some hyper-evolved alien tail she'd
somehow extruded, as though over patient centuries; a sweet and intricate
bone-machine, grown Lexan-armored tires, near-frictionless bearings, and gas
filled shocks.

William Gibson - Virtual Light


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Re: [RBW] For Sale: Rivendell Romulus

2010-04-20 Thread John Blish
Hi Rob,

I have no problem fitting SKS fenders with 700 x 32 Panaracer Pasela tires
on both my 59 Romulus bikes.  I had the same question as you and I called
Riv World HQ and spoke with Keven who said, Do it.

I did.

Write to me if you want to see pictures.

-jb


On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 1:28 PM, Rob Harrison robha...@gmail.com wrote:

 Am I correct in thinking the largest tires you can fit with fenders on the
 Romulus are 28s, and without fenders 37s?

 I _think_ this is why I need a 650b bike: Using the tire pressure
 spreadsheet I need at least a 35mm tire to get the rear tire down into the
 normal range of pressure. I'm running 28s on my RB-T now, but the
 spreadsheet suggests 120 lbs, figuring me, bike and luggage at 246 lbs, and
 a 65/35 rear/front weight distribution 'cause I have Albatross bars fitted.
  The max inflation for the Top Contact tires is 95 lbs. I've been inflating
 the rear tire to ~110 lbs without problems so far, but it can't be good for
 the wheel.

 So the Romulus would work for me if I used a 35-37mm tire, but that rules
 out fenders. Maybe not a wise choice in Seattle.

 Rob in Seattle



 On Apr 19, 2010, at 6:02 PM, NotSoSpeedy wrote:


 FS - I am selling my Rivendell Romulus, 61 frame at:

 http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bik/1700264714.html


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-- 
John Blish
Minneapolis MN USA

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[RBW] Re: Final round of stuff for sale

2010-04-20 Thread Trent in TX
I'm curious about the price for the Trek? Sorry if I overlooked it in
this post somewhere...

Thanks!
Trent


On Apr 20, 9:13 am, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
 Excellent, glad folks can use some of this stuff!  Everything is spoken for
 except the 22T X 58BCD
 chainringhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4490554719/- $10,
 free shipping.

 Also, the Trek 330
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4501357803/from previous
 listings is still looking for a good home.  I'll start parting
 it out later this week if nobody wants it as is.

 On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 10:33 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.comwrote:





  1)  Swobo 
  Jerseyhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/sets/72157622818019343/- 
  was an XL, shrunk a bit, maybe to a L/M size.  Thicker wool than current
  Swobo jersies.  Little bit of a moth hole on the collar, little bit of
  shellac splatter on the front.  Color is a little pinker than in photos.
  Really nice though!  $25 shipped

  2)  Shimano 
  Freewheelhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4490557039/- $10, free 
  shipping

  3)  Sachs Freewheelhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/2369082421/- 
  cogs great, body exploded on me.  FREE (shipping only)

  4)  22T X 58BCD 
  chainringhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4490554719/- $10, free 
  shipping

  5)  Onza pedals http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4536650085/ -
  the best of the '90s.  It's like hanging out with Kurt Cobain Courtney
  Love, in fact I always referred to the left one as Kurt (he was left handed)
  and the right as Courtney - FREE (shipping only)

 --
 Cheers,
 David
 Redlands, CA

 Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
 wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym.  ~Bill Nye,
 scientist guy

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[RBW] Re: fatter tires for 26 wheels

2010-04-20 Thread Beth H
Mojo gjtra...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I would like to echo Patrick's thoughts. Beth, Patrick, and I are all
 riding Rivendell 26ers, with higher trail than the Kogswells used in
 the BQ tests.

I am not an expert on bike gemometry. That said, I keep wondering if
there is a correlation between wheel size and frame size that changes
the ride quality as well? I've mostly heard responses here from guys
who ride much bigger frames than I do. Would a larger frame (and
longer chainstay lengths, and bigger everything else) change the ride
quality that much? Would it change the tire choice substantially? It
sounds like it's up to the individual rider, but I remain curious.
Obviously, a 1.5 Pasela seems to been a good solution for me, but my
frame is a 53cm c-t (55cm c-c top tube). How would this be for someone
who rides a 60cm frame? Would it make a difference at all? --Beth

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[RBW] Re: Amos?

2010-04-20 Thread sjauch
It's going to be pink.

On Apr 20, 12:22 pm, D. Goff dbg...@mac.com wrote:
 Any new rumors on the Amos?

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Re: [RBW] RBW Saddle Height question

2010-04-20 Thread James Dinneen
PBH minus 10, measured to the top of the saddle works great for me.
 Jim D.  Massachusetts

--- On Tue, 4/20/10, Jay LePree lep...@optonline.net wrote:

From: Jay LePree lep...@optonline.net
Subject: [RBW] RBW Saddle Height question
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Date: Tuesday, April 20, 2010, 7:46 AM

Hi all:

One of the things I always wanted to know but was afraid to ask.  The
RBW method for determining saddle height is PBH - 10 to 11.  The
measurement is made from center of the cranks (the spindle of the
bottom bracket) to the top of the saddle.

Here are the questions.  How many of you use this formula?  Do you
adjust it if you place the saddle all the way back on its rails?
(Relateddon't laugh...where does one measure the top of the
saddle...the area where you sit, the area right over the seat post?)

I ask because my saddle height seems to be shorter than this (with MKS
pedals and Addidas Sambas)..more like PBH - 15.  I would like to raise
it to Riv recommendations, but I was wondering what your experiences
have been.

Regards,

Jay
Demarest, NJ

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[RBW] Re: Henry Coe Ride Report

2010-04-20 Thread Adam
I've received feedback that the photos on Flickr came up pretty
small.  Here's a second go:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/39219...@n06/?saved=1


Also, per request, our route in Henry Coe looked something like this:
From Hwy 138-- County line fire Road
--the peak of Bear Mountain--Poverty Flat--Park Headquarters

Just don't mention your route to the ranger :)

Glad to spark some excitement.

Cheers,
Adam


On Apr 19, 9:26 pm, Adam oceanm...@gmail.com wrote:
 Henry Coe Ride Report

 I logged on a few weeks ago and asked the listserv about experiences
 of Henry W. Coe Park.  Got some great reports that fueled my
 excitement.

 It’s the biggest state run park in Northern California, 87,000 acres
 of open space.  Certain parts are closed to cyclists though it is
 recognized as some of the best mountain biking in the greater bay
 area.

 Almost everyone I spoke to warned of the almost vertical climbs and
 descents.  Even riders who I thought were in the same club suggested
 full suspension.

 My buddy Todd and I had planned an early morning departure last Monday
 but delayed until about 6pm to avoid riding in the rain.  We departed
 from Berkeley and arrived in Briones about an hour after dark.  We
 rode a fire road out from the park entrance about a mile and pushed up
 an extremely steep and muddy hill.  This short ascent proved to be one
 of the most challenging moments of the trip.

 Todd spent the night a bit cold, and we were both soaked from the tall
 grasses we’d be tromping through.  In the morning we were considering
 heading back home so he could pick up his thicker sleeping bag when
 alas I remembered stories of the VBL.  Todd and I rode out to Walnut
 Creek to the headquarters.  We both picked up some “Vapor Barrier
 Liners” and we agreed our dollars could not have been better spent.
 We went from wearing our down jackets inside our bags and shivering
 through the night to ditching the jackets and feeling more than cozy.
 Pretty incredible results for such a packable and inexpensive item.

 Grant and Mark gave us directions from Walnut Creek out to Livermore
 where Todd grew up.  They seemed a bit doubtful about our ambitious
 journey but gave us some uplifting encouragement.

 We made it out for sandwiches and tea with Todd’s parents and then a
 good 10 miles into Mines Rd. before sunset.  We found a lovely
 campsite on an unknowingly generous landowners’ space.  It felt
 incredibly remote for being just 10 miles out of Livermore.

 The next day we continued along Mines Rd. until a welcomed stop at the
 Junction Café.  It’s located at the junction of Mines Rd. and Hwy 138
 and is of a different world.  Giant Boar heads over the bar with
 mangled tusks, not a single guy without a camouflage baseball cap.
 Wonderful people, we felt warmly welcomed, humored perhaps.  Had too
 much to eat and drink for our adventurous spirits and enjoyed some
 good games of horseshoe outside the restaurant.

 We departed from Mines Rd. soon after unto some private land for a
 mile or so and then into the beauty of Henry Coe.  We spent 1 night
 and 2 full days in the park.  Riding and pushing, pushing and riding.
 I’d say our time was about 50/50 between the 2.  We crossed a dozen or
 so rivers and felt lost in the isolated beauty.

 From the park we rode down through Gilroy and into Downtown San Jose
 where we caught bus 181 to Fremont Bart and then homeward bound.

 It was an incredible 4 days.

 Refreshed and enlivened,
 Adam

 Pictures and some short 
 videos:http://www.flickr.com/photos/39219...@n06/sets/72157623893960464/

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[RBW] Re: Amos?

2010-04-20 Thread Darin G.
Enough gossip like that and you might force HQ to put out some
clarification.  I did almost fall over though.

On Apr 20, 2:43 pm, sjauch sja...@gmail.com wrote:
 It's going to be pink.

 On Apr 20, 12:22 pm, D. Goff dbg...@mac.com wrote:

  Any new rumors on the Amos?

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[RBW] Bullmoose on a Hillborne

2010-04-20 Thread Johnny Alien
I am really really in like with the photo of the Hunqapillar on the
Rivendell site.  I have decided that I want to make my next bike
similar to this one with nice fat tires a Bullmoose bars.

http://www.rivbike.com/images/products/full//3453/Vaughn_s_Quarterbest.jpg

I kinda like the colors and 650B size of the Hilborne but of course
the frame is not as heavy duty as the Hunqapillar. I am not sure how
wide it can go tire-wise without fenders either.

So would it make sense to gear up a Hillborne in this fashion or
should I just suck it up and go with the Hunqapillar when it comes out?

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[RBW] Re: fatter tires for 26 wheels

2010-04-20 Thread Tim McNamara


On Apr 20, 2010, at 3:35 PM, Beth H wrote:


Mojo gjtra...@yahoo.com wrote:

I would like to echo Patrick's thoughts. Beth, Patrick, and I are all
riding Rivendell 26ers, with higher trail than the Kogswells used in
the BQ tests.


I am not an expert on bike gemometry. That said, I keep wondering if
there is a correlation between wheel size and frame size that changes
the ride quality as well? I've mostly heard responses here from guys
who ride much bigger frames than I do. Would a larger frame (and
longer chainstay lengths, and bigger everything else) change the ride
quality that much? Would it change the tire choice substantially? It
sounds like it's up to the individual rider, but I remain curious.
Obviously, a 1.5 Pasela seems to been a good solution for me, but my
frame is a 53cm c-t (55cm c-c top tube). How would this be for someone
who rides a 60cm frame? Would it make a difference at all?


Mine (1996) is a 59.5 with a 59 cm top tube.  So the top tube is  
about 4 cm longer than yours.  I don't know if the chainstays are  
longer, but even if they are the same the wheelbase would be maybe 4  
cm longer, depending on the front geometry.  If the chainstays are  
longer, then my wheelbase might be longer still.


All other things being equal, a bike with a longer wheelbase will be  
more stable.  I suspect a small/short top tube, low-trail bike with  
really short chain stays and skinny hard tires would be like riding  
one of those bikes with two wheels that steer.


The best handling bike (for racing, back when I raced) I ever rode is  
my Ritchey with 700 x 23 Michelin Super Course slicks.  It had the  
perfect balance of stable and nimble for racing.  Now that I don't  
race, I still ride it but not as much.  I prefer slightly fatter  
tires and a bit more stability at the expense of some nimbleness; the  
Ritchey will fit 25s and I might be able to squeeze in 28s, but it  
doesn't handle as nice with the bigger tires.  I ride the Riv A/R  
most of the time and my homebrew 3 speed the almost all the rest of  
the time.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues

2010-04-20 Thread Tim McNamara


On Apr 20, 2010, at 2:06 PM, CycloFiend wrote:

Hmmm... such spoke/failures (particularly without any pinch  
flatting) would
point me back to looking at the dropout alignment or rear triangle  
alignment
on the frame. You can get a sense of frame alignment with the  
string test

described on Sheldon's site:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

You are running the right hubs for your frame spacing, right?


That will give you the major alignment of the triangles bit not the  
alignment of the faces of the dropouts, which must be parallel to  
each other.  You need a dropout gauge to check this.  Good bike shops  
will always have them (although shops with them are not necessarily  
good) and all frame builders will have them.


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[RBW] Re: Hilsen and tire clearance.

2010-04-20 Thread wile
Hmmm - good question.  I never considered that there could be an
alignment issue.  Everything else seems to indicate that it's well
aligned - its an AHH with extremely quiet drivetrain, visually
straight from the back, and the ride is smooth, stable and heavenly.
The tires align perfectly with the rear fender.  My experience has
been that if I put on a set of JBs or Paselas (32C), and I let the
tires get to about 1000 or 1100 without rotating, the rear tire will
be toast (i.e. get a flat every other day from puncture).  Once it
gets to this point I have found it is too late to rotate them - the
same tire will continue to flat once it gets to the front.  I have had
the same experience with 2 sets of JB greens and 1 set of JB blues.
If I switch after 600 miles, I could probably get 1200 miles out of
them.  I found the Paselas to be almost exactly the same (however much
cheaper).  I also have had the beads separate from both types of tire
around that mileage point.

My riding conditions, however, may be very different from others.  I
commute to work year round in Tucson, AZ on fairly rough roads (lots
of chip seal, but not many huge potholes).  From May through August,
all of my afternoon rides are at around 100 deg.  I think I read on
the Schwalbe website that high temperatures will accelerate tire
wear.  I also strap my work bag with clothes and stuff onto the rear
rack.  With bike lock and lunch, etc. it probably averages 25 lbs.  I
myself weigh about 200 lbs.  For reference, before the AHH I commuted
on a racing bike with a messenger bag.  I consistently got 2000 out of
the 25C tires I used.  It's probably a combination of everything and I
certainly enjoyed riding on both JBs and Paselas.  It's just that I
now may have found my nirvana tire.  The Schwalbes are bigger
(running 622-42 HS 366 with fenders), very comfy and seem very
durable.  Of course, it's not a fair test yet since the Schwalbes only
have 1000 miles on them.

On Apr 20, 2:44 pm, Joe Bartoe jbar...@hotmail.com wrote:
 I have to ask. How does one burn through the JBs and why would only get 1000 
 miles on the Paselas? I've ridden a pair of JBs for voer 1500 miles and they 
 still don't show a lot of wear. Others on the list claim that Pasela's wear 
 well. If you're really burning through the tires, especially on the rear, I'd 
 suggest having a shop check the alignment of your rear triangle. Something 
 doesn't sound right.

 Joe





  Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 14:33:58 -0700
  Subject: [RBW] Re: Hilsen and tire clearance.
  From: dylanmcner...@yahoo.com
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com

  I have also switched over to the Schwalbe Marathons - and I am shocked
  at how fast they roll and how durable they are.  I got sick of burning
  through the JBs and tried similar sized Paselas, but they also only
  lasted for about 1000 mi.  The marathons have about 1000 on them now
  with hardly any noticeable tread wear (and no flats).  I ride about 30
  mi a day to and from work and the peace of mind is great.  I really
  thought I was making a compromise, trading weight and rolling
  resistance for durability, but that has not been the case.  One caveat
  - I don't have a lot of hills on my route.  They may be slower going
  uphill, but based on the way they feel every day, I wouldn't hesitate
  to ride up the mountains around here.

  On Apr 19, 11:30 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
   on 4/19/10 9:12 AM, Mike at mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:

On Apr 18, 10:53 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:
I do ride my JB greens off-road, though they are less fun than my 42mm
IRC Mythos XC Slicks. Have gotten one pinch flat on a high speed
descend on a gravel road with sharp fist-sized rocks, running around
35-40 psi with a bike+rider weight of 210 lbs.

Gernot

I think there are plenty of riders who can get by riding JB greens off
road. Mark at Rivendell does and I think Cyclofiend has too. I weigh
190 and am magnetically drawn to every rut, rock, root and bad line
when pedaling off road so it's just not a good idea for me. Then
again, I've ridden 28s off road at times. It's really nice to have a
bike the Hilsen or SH that provides lots of options.

   JB Greens are my choice.  But, I have gotten pretty quick at on-the-trail
   tube replacements over the years. ;^)

   Most of the local trails have some pretty sharp, rocky bits, which means
   adding a bit more pressure.  I think you'll find a lot of pinch flats at
   that psi, if those are your conditions.  On certain trails, I increase
   pressure significantly.

   It's always a balance of comfort, control, pressure and technique.  That's
   the challenge I enjoy, and it doesn't always make for easy-breezy
   descending.

   If you want lower pressures, increase the tire volume.  JB's are nice and
   fat and round, which give significant control, but things can get dicey 
   when
   when things are jagged. Of course, if you increase size 

[RBW] Re: New Sam Hillborne

2010-04-20 Thread MichaelH
Beautiful, Darin.  I really like seeing a beautiful classic put
together with good, affordable parts.

Happy trails,
michael

On Apr 20, 3:08 pm, Darin G. dbg...@mac.com wrote:
 My Sam Hillborne is complete with all accessories

 http://gallery.me.com/dbgoff#18

 Frameset:       Rivendell Sam Hillborne 56cm
 Brake Levers:   Cane Creek - Gum
 Shifters:       Shimano Bar End 9
 Crank:  Sugino XD Special
 Bottom Bracket:  Tange
 Brakes: Shimano 550
 Front Derailleur:       Tiagra 28.6
 Rear Derailleur:        Deore XT
 Cassette:       12-32 Shimano HG50
 Stem:   Nitto Tech Delux
 Handlebars:     Nitto Noodle 44
 Tape:   Cork
 Headset:        Tange
 Wheels: Deore XT Mavic A719
 Saddle: Brooks B17 Special Honey
 Seatpost:       Nitto Crystal
 Tires:  Riv Jack Brown Blue
 Fender:         Planet Bike Cascadia
 Rear Rack:      Nitto Big
 Front Rack:     Nitto Mini
 Pedals: Shimano 540

 Thanks to Mark Kennedy at Saturday Cycles for putting this together.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Final round of stuff for sale

2010-04-20 Thread cyclotourist
It's an '88, made with Reynolds 531 tubes.  Brooks saddle, 46cm Nitto
Noodles  Tech Dlx stem.  Handbuild Open Sport (MA3) wheel with flip-flop
hub and two freewheels.   Pump, lock, Jandd bags included.  $300 plus
shipping.  I'm getting  ready to part it out ($100 frame, $100 wheelset,
probably $150 or so in parts).

More pics in this set:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/sets/72157623677638509/

Thanks for the interest.

On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 1:27 PM, Trent in TX trent.thi...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'm curious about the price for the Trek? Sorry if I overlooked it in
 this post somewhere...

 Thanks!
 Trent


 On Apr 20, 9:13 am, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
  Excellent, glad folks can use some of this stuff!  Everything is spoken
 for
  except the 22T X 58BCD
  chainringhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4490554719/- $10,
  free shipping.
 
  Also, the Trek 330
  http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4501357803/from previous
  listings is still looking for a good home.  I'll start parting
  it out later this week if nobody wants it as is.
 
  On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 10:33 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
 wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
   1)  Swobo Jersey
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/sets/72157622818019343/- was an
 XL, shrunk a bit, maybe to a L/M size.  Thicker wool than current
   Swobo jersies.  Little bit of a moth hole on the collar, little bit of
   shellac splatter on the front.  Color is a little pinker than in
 photos.
   Really nice though!  $25 shipped
 
   2)  Shimano Freewheel
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4490557039/- $10, free shipping
 
   3)  Sachs Freewheel
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/2369082421/- cogs great, body
 exploded on me.  FREE (shipping only)
 
   4)  22T X 58BCD chainring
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4490554719/- $10, free shipping
 
   5)  Onza pedals http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4536650085/
 -
   the best of the '90s.  It's like hanging out with Kurt Cobain Courtney
   Love, in fact I always referred to the left one as Kurt (he was left
 handed)
   and the right as Courtney - FREE (shipping only)
 
  --
  Cheers,
  David
  Redlands, CA
 
  Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
  wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym.  ~Bill Nye,
  scientist guy
 
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David
Redlands, CA

Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym.  ~Bill Nye,
scientist guy

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[RBW] unclaimed custom?

2010-04-20 Thread rperks
http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/230

Wondering if it is the fixed gear mtn bike from the San Diego Show?
Can not imagine it would be something to take a loss on.  Even with
the current state of the union something that created that much drool
must have value.  No telling if that is the one though.

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[RBW] Re: Bullmoose on a Hillborne

2010-04-20 Thread Johnny Alien
I don't think I will be thrashing it really at all but I do want a
bike set up for slightly rougher trails.  I wasn't sure if it would be
overkill to set up a country bike frame in this manner.  I have a
Bleriot and it doesn't seem like it would be a great frame to set up
in this manner.  I think the Hillborne is more heavy duty than the
Bleriot though.

On Apr 20, 8:06 pm, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote:
 The spec sheet says 44 mm max tire.

 How hard are you planning on thrashing the bike?  Do you really need
 the extra beef of the Hunq?  If not, and the Sam would fit, then go
 for it!

 On Apr 20, 3:48 pm, Johnny Alien johnnyal...@verizon.net wrote:





  I am really really in like with the photo of the Hunqapillar on the
  Rivendell site.  I have decided that I want to make my next bike
  similar to this one with nice fat tires a Bullmoose bars.

 http://www.rivbike.com/images/products/full//3453/Vaughn_s_Quarte...

  I kinda like the colors and 650B size of the Hilborne but of course
  the frame is not as heavy duty as the Hunqapillar. I am not sure how
  wide it can go tire-wise without fenders either.

  So would it make sense to gear up a Hillborne in this fashion or
  should I just suck it up and go with the Hunqapillar when it comes out?

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[RBW] Re: unclaimed custom?

2010-04-20 Thread doug peterson
I asked Grant to re-think the idea of stripping  re-painting and
selling at a loss.  Unless it's something really weird, I can't
imagine there isn't someone on this list who would be interested, or
know someone who may be interested.  Looking forward to the pix.  I'll
probably never find the minor cosmetic detail.

dougP

On Apr 20, 5:13 pm, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:
 http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/230

 Wondering if it is the fixed gear mtn bike from the San Diego Show?
 Can not imagine it would be something to take a loss on.  Even with
 the current state of the union something that created that much drool
 must have value.  No telling if that is the one though.

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[RBW] Re: unclaimed custom?

2010-04-20 Thread William
That was exactly my thought since he used the term Bizarro.  If the
Bizarro bike as GP called it is so unlike a Riv that they need to
strip decals and paint it before they take a loss on it, then why
would they allow it to be shown at the San Diego Show?  Unless it just
slipped their mind to pull it.  They are human.  I'm wondering what
the single unresolvable cosmetic detail that killed the deal could
have been.  It's like episodes of a reality show.

On Apr 20, 5:13 pm, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:
 http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/230

 Wondering if it is the fixed gear mtn bike from the San Diego Show?
 Can not imagine it would be something to take a loss on.  Even with
 the current state of the union something that created that much drool
 must have value.  No telling if that is the one though.

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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread doug peterson
My Atlantis came with ramps  pins on the Sugino.  They are good rings
 lasted me over 20k miles but I replaced with generic flat rings
because they were half the price.  The 24 to 36 shift takes a bit more
thought with the flat rings but no big deal.  With friction it's
pretty EZ to over-shift slightly to assure chain pick up.  No real
difference from middle to big.

The ramps  pins don't hurt anything if you're looking at a set-up
that already has them.

dougP

On Apr 20, 12:14 pm, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 on 4/20/10 3:06 AM, happyriding at happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:

  What's an alternative to the Sugino XD2 that has ramps and pins (all
  silver finish of course).

 Just a point that the ramps/pins are a function of the chainrings, not the
 crank.  

  How big a difference is there with no ramps and pins?

 With friction/manual shifting, little to none.

 I'm running a 38/48 on the Hilsen right now with unpinned (pinless?) rings
 on the Sugino , and don't notice a spec o' difference versus the same sized
 ones which were on my Ritchey crankset.

 - J

 --
 Jim Edgar
 cyclofi...@earthlink.net

 Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
 Current Classics - Cross Bikes
 Singlespeed - Working Bikes

 Send In Your Photos! - Here's how:http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines

 The bike between her legs was like some hyper-evolved alien tail she'd
 somehow extruded, as though over patient centuries; a sweet and intricate
 bone-machine, grown Lexan-armored tires, near-frictionless bearings, and gas
 filled shocks.

 William Gibson - Virtual Light

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[RBW] Re: New Sam Hillborne

2010-04-20 Thread Darin G.
Working on better pictures--unfortunately Mr. Nikon is in the shop,
again, so when he gets back we'll try for some better shots.

On Apr 20, 5:38 pm, happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Whoa!  We are going to need to see: 1) More pictures!  2) Sharp
 pictures!
 of that beauty.

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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread amoll68
Not 100% sure about this, but didn't ramps/pins come about because of
indexed shifting?

I've got a few bikes with old TA rings (thin), and they shift great in
friction mode.

Alex

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[RBW] Re: New Sam Hillborne

2010-04-20 Thread amoll68
Darin,

Cool - you're gonna enjoy that.

Alex

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[RBW] Re: unclaimed custom?

2010-04-20 Thread Ken Yokanovich
Whatever it it, it certainly raises my curiosity level.  I think
cosmetic details are important because I find bicycles beautiful,
functional art.  But, I don't think that anything outside of a
horrible color would be cosmetic enough to prevent me from interest in
a bicycle.  Oh, and one of my very favorite forms of riding is fixed
gear off road riding.  It's the ultimate under-bike experience.  So,
if this mystery bike is a fixed gear off roader, I'm really
interested.

On Apr 20, 7:13 pm, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:
 http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/230

 Wondering if it is the fixed gear mtn bike from the San Diego Show?
 Can not imagine it would be something to take a loss on.  Even with
 the current state of the union something that created that much drool
 must have value.  No telling if that is the one though.

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[RBW] Re: RBW Saddle Height question

2010-04-20 Thread Jay LePree
Hi all:

Thanks for the responses and the clarifications.  I will try to raise
my saddle gradually and just test how I feel.  Again, I appreciate the
thoughtful responses.

Jay

On Apr 20, 6:14 pm, James Dinneen jfxdinn...@yahoo.com wrote:
 PBH minus 10, measured to the top of the saddle works great for me.
  Jim D.  Massachusetts

 --- On Tue, 4/20/10, Jay LePree lep...@optonline.net wrote:

 From: Jay LePree lep...@optonline.net
 Subject: [RBW] RBW Saddle Height question
 To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Date: Tuesday, April 20, 2010, 7:46 AM

 Hi all:

 One of the things I always wanted to know but was afraid to ask.  The
 RBW method for determining saddle height is PBH - 10 to 11.  The
 measurement is made from center of the cranks (the spindle of the
 bottom bracket) to the top of the saddle.

 Here are the questions.  How many of you use this formula?  Do you
 adjust it if you place the saddle all the way back on its rails?
 (Relateddon't laugh...where does one measure the top of the
 saddle...the area where you sit, the area right over the seat post?)

 I ask because my saddle height seems to be shorter than this (with MKS
 pedals and Addidas Sambas)..more like PBH - 15.  I would like to raise
 it to Riv recommendations, but I was wondering what your experiences
 have been.

 Regards,

 Jay
 Demarest, NJ

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[RBW] Re: RBW Saddle Height question

2010-04-20 Thread MikeC

PBH=94 cm, SH=83.5 cm at point of sit bones on B17 slammed all the way
back on seat post on my Sam Hill.

I like to use the method of putting the heels of your bare feet on the
pedals and setting seat height when your leg is fully extended at 6:00
position. For me, this works out to PBH- 10-11 cm and it automatically
takes into account any changes is seat fore/aft and seat angle.

-Mike

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[RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues

2010-04-20 Thread Peter Andrews
I'll add to the Dyad yap.  I'm running a couple of machined 32H 700c
Dyads laced with 2.0 straight gauge to White Industry hubs built up by
Mark @ Hank + Frank's in Oakland.  Bomb-proof.  I'm now comin' in @
250 lbs. and hop curbs and railroad tracks (but have yet to jump the
draw-bridge) on my urban commute.  I do run 50mm rubber, so this is a
major factor, but these wheels are as true as the day I got them.

-P.

On Apr 20, 10:49 am, Bill Connell bconn...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 12:50 AM, happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
  What I want to know is: do rims with non-machined side walls brake
  worth a damn?   Or, is the brake pad skipping all over the brake
  surface and making a terrible racket?  Has anyone used Velocity Dyad
  rims before?

 Another data point: i have a set of XT/Dyad wheels i built myself for
 my cyclocross/commuter bike 4 years ago, and they've been excellent
 rims through racing seasons and thousands of miles of year-round
 riding. Nothing more than minor truing touch-up needed on them, and
 braking has been perfectly fine. I highly recommend it as a good rim
 for riding anything from about a 32mm tire on up.

 --
 Bill Connell
 St. Paul, MN

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Re: [RBW] Re: unclaimed custom?

2010-04-20 Thread cyclotourist
I don't know if this is it, but it's the one that was at the San Diego
show:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671...@n02/4512933760/sizes/l/

Pacenti crown, cantis front, no brakes rear, horizontal fork ends (RIP
Sheldon), no shifter cable braze-ons, curvy chain stays.

I guess that is about one standard deviation away from a typical Rivendell.

On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 5:59 PM, Ken Yokanovich 
reflector.collec...@gmail.com wrote:

 Whatever it it, it certainly raises my curiosity level.  I think
 cosmetic details are important because I find bicycles beautiful,
 functional art.  But, I don't think that anything outside of a
 horrible color would be cosmetic enough to prevent me from interest in
 a bicycle.  Oh, and one of my very favorite forms of riding is fixed
 gear off road riding.  It's the ultimate under-bike experience.  So,
 if this mystery bike is a fixed gear off roader, I'm really
 interested.

 On Apr 20, 7:13 pm, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:
  http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/230
 
  Wondering if it is the fixed gear mtn bike from the San Diego Show?
  Can not imagine it would be something to take a loss on.  Even with
  the current state of the union something that created that much drool
  must have value.  No telling if that is the one though.
 
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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym.  ~Bill Nye,
scientist guy

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[RBW] Atlantis SKS Fender Install

2010-04-20 Thread Mitch Browne
I'm about to mount SKS P50's over the 700x45 Marathon Plus' on my
Atlantis.

The included 5mm bolts with the fenders don't quite fill the fork
mounting hole but a 6mm bolt seems fine. I recently installed some SKS
hardware on my XO-1 with Sheldon Fender Nuts / dremel tool so I'm
familiar with the need for some sort of spacer to move the front
fender mount out from under the fork crown race. Any suggestions on
hardware or technique?

As an aside I'm a little sensitive about how easily the paint cracks
on this bike and don't mind spending a little time and expense to get
it right. I read a comment about this in another post and then noticed
that the lock n roll seat post lock I installed this weekend has
cracked off all of the paint on the outside of the post where it
clamps. If I had it to do over again I'd probably find something to
fit in the pinch bolt hole to absorb some of the force. This hasn't
happened on my  XO-1, the paint is much more robust.

Finally, what's the best way to mount the rear fender to the threaded
seat stay bridge? My inclination is to flatten the mounting tab on the
fender and drill a hole and mount the 5mm bolt through a nylon or
aluminum spacer, I have both.

Thanks for the thought and consideration, it's reassuring to be able
to tap into the wealth of knowledge.

Oh! I bit on the Viyella shirt Grant started hawking  it is very
well made and has the great non-smelly wool quality though it won't
get much use in the summer time, the searsucker will though!

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Re: [RBW] Re: unclaimed custom?

2010-04-20 Thread Jon Grant
And no fender/rack eyelets! Ye gods and little fishes!

--
Jon ³Papa² Grant
Illustration + Information Graphics
Austin, Texas
jgr...@papagrant.com
512-284-9599

Drawings ‹ all sorts



From: cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
Reply-To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 18:24:58 -0700
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: unclaimed custom?

I don't know if this is it, but it's the one that was at the San Diego
show:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671...@n02/4512933760/sizes/l/

Pacenti crown, cantis front, no brakes rear, horizontal fork ends (RIP
Sheldon), no shifter cable braze-ons, curvy chain stays.

I guess that is about one standard deviation away from a typical Rivendell.

On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 5:59 PM, Ken Yokanovich
reflector.collec...@gmail.com wrote:
 Whatever it it, it certainly raises my curiosity level.  I think
 cosmetic details are important because I find bicycles beautiful,
 functional art.  But, I don't think that anything outside of a
 horrible color would be cosmetic enough to prevent me from interest in
 a bicycle.  Oh, and one of my very favorite forms of riding is fixed
 gear off road riding.  It's the ultimate under-bike experience.  So,
 if this mystery bike is a fixed gear off roader, I'm really
 interested.
 
 On Apr 20, 7:13 pm, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:
  http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/230
 
  Wondering if it is the fixed gear mtn bike from the San Diego Show?
  Can not imagine it would be something to take a loss on.  Even with
  the current state of the union something that created that much drool
  must have value.  No telling if that is the one though.
 
  --
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-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym.  ~Bill Nye,
scientist guy

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Re: [RBW] Re: unclaimed custom?

2010-04-20 Thread Bill Connell
On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 8:24 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
 I don't know if this is it, but it's the one that was at the San Diego
 show:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671...@n02/4512933760/sizes/l/

 Pacenti crown, cantis front, no brakes rear, horizontal fork ends (RIP
 Sheldon), no shifter cable braze-ons, curvy chain stays.

 I guess that is about one standard deviation away from a typical Rivendell.


Wow, that's a pretty cool Rivendell frame. I'd say that a fixed trail
bike is the only explanation for it, and now i'm really curious about
what the flaw could have been. It seems like it would have to be a big
deal for the customer to bail on such a carefully negotiated custom
like that, but it's hard to see anything to complain about from here.

Ken, this one is right up your alley (if indeed it's the frame in question).

-- 
Bill Connell
St. Paul, MN

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[RBW] Re: unclaimed custom?

2010-04-20 Thread Ken Yokanovich
Wow, that's one VERY cool bike. I bet it would be a real HOOT to
ride.  I've been riding a custom made Co Motion steel frame, rigid
fork, front cantilever only bike. It's really an old regular off-
roader, but I converted to fixed gear using a White Industries ENO
hub.  I also have a custom Phil Wood Independent Fabrication TI
singlespeed that I've been very tempted to convert over to fixed. (I
also have a Trek OCLV fixed gear off-roader. Say what you will about
carbon, the thing is stupid light and I care very little if it get
trashed.  I keep hoping it will fail so I have reason to destroy it.)

Man-o-man, I bet the mystery Rivendell would be really a fun time. I'd
be really curious to get the Rivendell interpretation of ride
characteristics. I have no clue on size, but judging from the photos
it looks like it might be too small.  Good thing, I think if I asked
if I could get another bike right now, my wife would ring my neck!

On Apr 20, 8:24 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
 I don't know if this is it, but it's the one that was at the San Diego
 show:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671...@n02/4512933760/sizes/l/

 Pacenti crown, cantis front, no brakes rear, horizontal fork ends (RIP
 Sheldon), no shifter cable braze-ons, curvy chain stays.

 I guess that is about one standard deviation away from a typical Rivendell.

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Re: [RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread Horace
I don't think so, since the front is never indexed.

On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 5:52 PM, amoll68 amol...@comcast.net wrote:

 Not 100% sure about this, but didn't ramps/pins come about because of
 indexed shifting?

 I've got a few bikes with old TA rings (thin), and they shift great in
 friction mode.

 Alex

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Re: [RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread cyclotourist
MTBs index the front.

Strangely, I tried a unpinned chainring, and couldn't get it to shift.  It
was the middle ring of a triple.

On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 7:29 PM, Horace max...@sdf.lonestar.org wrote:

 I don't think so, since the front is never indexed.


 On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 5:52 PM, amoll68 amol...@comcast.net wrote:

 Not 100% sure about this, but didn't ramps/pins come about because of
 indexed shifting?

 I've got a few bikes with old TA rings (thin), and they shift great in
 friction mode.

 Alex

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scientist guy

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Re: [RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread Shaun Meehan
I think some of the early Shimano brifters had indexed front shifting
too. Didn't they? RX100...

Shaun Meehan

On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 9:35 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
 MTBs index the front.

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Re: [RBW] Re: unclaimed custom?

2010-04-20 Thread Shaun Meehan
If the frame from the San Diego show is the frame in question, I
certainly don't see why they'd want to strip the paint. Great looking
bike!

Shaun Meehan

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[RBW] Re: unclaimed custom?

2010-04-20 Thread newenglandbike
 Is that a Pacenti fork crown?   It seems a fork crown like that would
be quite at home on a Hunqapillar or Bombadil!

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[RBW] Re: Bullmoose on a Hillborne

2010-04-20 Thread Jim M.
I would bet that the Hilborne is at least as rugged as the MB-1 and
MB-0, which saw lots of rougher trails.

jim m
wc ca

On Apr 20, 5:13 pm, Johnny Alien johnnyal...@verizon.net wrote:
 I don't think I will be thrashing it really at all but I do want a
 bike set up for slightly rougher trails.  I wasn't sure if it would be
 overkill to set up a country bike frame in this manner.  I have a
 Bleriot and it doesn't seem like it would be a great frame to set up
 in this manner.  I think the Hillborne is more heavy duty than the
 Bleriot though.

 On Apr 20, 8:06 pm, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote:



  The spec sheet says 44 mm max tire.

  How hard are you planning on thrashing the bike?  Do you really need
  the extra beef of the Hunq?  If not, and the Sam would fit, then go
  for it!

  On Apr 20, 3:48 pm, Johnny Alien johnnyal...@verizon.net wrote:

   I am really really in like with the photo of the Hunqapillar on the
   Rivendell site.  I have decided that I want to make my next bike
   similar to this one with nice fat tires a Bullmoose bars.

  http://www.rivbike.com/images/products/full//3453/Vaughn_s_Quarte...

   I kinda like the colors and 650B size of the Hilborne but of course
   the frame is not as heavy duty as the Hunqapillar. I am not sure how
   wide it can go tire-wise without fenders either.

   So would it make sense to gear up a Hillborne in this fashion or
   should I just suck it up and go with the Hunqapillar when it comes out?

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[RBW] Re: unclaimed custom?

2010-04-20 Thread Michael_S
well maybe they think it should have some canti brake studs in the
back?  It does seem a little odd of a build... of course the JB paint
job is the cats pajamas!

~Mike~

On Apr 20, 8:10 pm, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:
  Is that a Pacenti fork crown?   It seems a fork crown like that would
 be quite at home on a Hunqapillar or Bombadil!

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[RBW] Re: Bullmoose on a Hillborne

2010-04-20 Thread Michael_S
I have a Hillborne and am running some 700 x 40 Schwalbe Smart Sam
knobbies.. it could easily take a 45-47mm knobbie w/o fenders. And
I've ridden it on some pretty techy singletrack in this mode and as a
result I hardly ever take out my 29er an more.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37347...@n05/4220857510/sizes/l/in/set-72157623110722902/

~Mike~

On Apr 20, 8:14 pm, Jim M. mather...@gmail.com wrote:
 I would bet that the Hilborne is at least as rugged as the MB-1 and
 MB-0, which saw lots of rougher trails.

 jim m
 wc ca

 On Apr 20, 5:13 pm, Johnny Alien johnnyal...@verizon.net wrote:





  I don't think I will be thrashing it really at all but I do want a
  bike set up for slightly rougher trails.  I wasn't sure if it would be
  overkill to set up a country bike frame in this manner.  I have a
  Bleriot and it doesn't seem like it would be a great frame to set up
  in this manner.  I think the Hillborne is more heavy duty than the
  Bleriot though.

  On Apr 20, 8:06 pm, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote:

   The spec sheet says 44 mm max tire.

   How hard are you planning on thrashing the bike?  Do you really need
   the extra beef of the Hunq?  If not, and the Sam would fit, then go
   for it!

   On Apr 20, 3:48 pm, Johnny Alien johnnyal...@verizon.net wrote:

I am really really in like with the photo of the Hunqapillar on the
Rivendell site.  I have decided that I want to make my next bike
similar to this one with nice fat tires a Bullmoose bars.

   http://www.rivbike.com/images/products/full//3453/Vaughn_s_Quarte...

I kinda like the colors and 650B size of the Hilborne but of course
the frame is not as heavy duty as the Hunqapillar. I am not sure how
wide it can go tire-wise without fenders either.

So would it make sense to gear up a Hillborne in this fashion or
should I just suck it up and go with the Hunqapillar when it comes out?

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[RBW] Pasela 35/37 or Marathon Racer 38?

2010-04-20 Thread Earl Grey
Hi,

I am looking for a wider tire than my Jack Brown Greens, that is also
supple and has low rolling resistance (yes, a 700C Hetre). Does anyone
have experience with 2 out of these 3 tires and can compare them both
in terms of actual width and ride quality?

There have been a couple of posts claiming the 35 and 37 Paselas are
both 36mm. Do they ride differently?

Thanks,

Gernot

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[RBW] Re: Pasela 35/37 or Marathon Racer 38?

2010-04-20 Thread Mike
I had a set of Pasela 35s for about a year and they were okay. When I
replaced the rear I got a lemon as the sidewall gave way pretty
quickly. I've been using Panaracer T-serves in 35 and like them a lot.
Same tread as a Pasela but with tougher sidewalls. I've used them for
road rides, gravel road rides, and centuries. Give them a try. The
Pasela 37s seem to be a little harder to find now that Riv doesn't
have them. I wish they'd make a 700x40 T-Serve.

--mike

On Apr 20, 8:32 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi,

 I am looking for a wider tire than my Jack Brown Greens, that is also
 supple and has low rolling resistance (yes, a 700C Hetre). Does anyone
 have experience with 2 out of these 3 tires and can compare them both
 in terms of actual width and ride quality?

 There have been a couple of posts claiming the 35 and 37 Paselas are
 both 36mm. Do they ride differently?

 Thanks,

 Gernot

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Re: [RBW] Re: Pasela 35/37 or Marathon Racer 38?

2010-04-20 Thread cyclotourist
I have the 35mm Pasela Tourguards, and they indeed measure 36mm.  Sidewalls
go before the tread, but cheap enough to not be too upset by that.  I ride
them EVERYWHERE so they get beat up pretty good.  They are very supple,
which I love about them.

Don't forget to add the Marathon Supremes to your list.  They're pricey but
last a bit and are supple (or so I've heard from others).



On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 8:54 PM, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:

 I had a set of Pasela 35s for about a year and they were okay. When I
 replaced the rear I got a lemon as the sidewall gave way pretty
 quickly. I've been using Panaracer T-serves in 35 and like them a lot.
 Same tread as a Pasela but with tougher sidewalls. I've used them for
 road rides, gravel road rides, and centuries. Give them a try. The
 Pasela 37s seem to be a little harder to find now that Riv doesn't
 have them. I wish they'd make a 700x40 T-Serve.

 --mike

 On Apr 20, 8:32 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:
  Hi,
 
  I am looking for a wider tire than my Jack Brown Greens, that is also
  supple and has low rolling resistance (yes, a 700C Hetre). Does anyone
  have experience with 2 out of these 3 tires and can compare them both
  in terms of actual width and ride quality?
 
  There have been a couple of posts claiming the 35 and 37 Paselas are
  both 36mm. Do they ride differently?
 
  Thanks,
 
  Gernot
 
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Redlands, CA

Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym.  ~Bill Nye,
scientist guy

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[RBW] Re: Pasela 35/37 or Marathon Racer 38?

2010-04-20 Thread doug peterson
Gernot:

Your selection ought to consider what kinds of abuse your tires see
off-road.  I've used Paselas, T-Servs, and now Marathon Supremes.  The
Paselas ride nice but the sidewalls take a beating in gravel, rocks,
etc.  I went with T-Servs to address that problem and they are much
more rugged.  I'm currently using Marathon Supremes because I hate
flats.  The Paselas may have ridden a bit better than either of the
other 2 but not hugely different.  I have no direct experience with
the Marathon Racer but would expect it to be more supple than the
Supreme due to lighter construction.  All good tires.  You just need
to think about how abusive your situation may be.

dougP

On Apr 20, 8:32 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi,

 I am looking for a wider tire than my Jack Brown Greens, that is also
 supple and has low rolling resistance (yes, a 700C Hetre). Does anyone
 have experience with 2 out of these 3 tires and can compare them both
 in terms of actual width and ride quality?

 There have been a couple of posts claiming the 35 and 37 Paselas are
 both 36mm. Do they ride differently?

 Thanks,

 Gernot

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[RBW] Re: Pasela 35/37 or Marathon Racer 38?

2010-04-20 Thread Michael_S
ditto, I threw the 35mm Pasela TG's on my Hillborne recently  as the
knobbie Smart Sams are slow on pavement. They ride very nicely and
handle dirt pretty well. They wash out in sandy stuff compared to the
Smart Sams though.
I'm in the same boat as you and about ready to take the plunge on the
38 Racers. They seem to have a little more tread than the Supremes.
After looking at everything else the Racers seem to have it all...
light wt, some tread and a supple casing ... so they say...

The Paselas are planned for my Bridgestone T700 camper/errand project
so I need some final rubber for the SH.




On Apr 20, 9:10 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have the 35mm Pasela Tourguards, and they indeed measure 36mm.  Sidewalls
 go before the tread, but cheap enough to not be too upset by that.  I ride
 them EVERYWHERE so they get beat up pretty good.  They are very supple,
 which I love about them.

 Don't forget to add the Marathon Supremes to your list.  They're pricey but
 last a bit and are supple (or so I've heard from others).





 On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 8:54 PM, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
  I had a set of Pasela 35s for about a year and they were okay. When I
  replaced the rear I got a lemon as the sidewall gave way pretty
  quickly. I've been using Panaracer T-serves in 35 and like them a lot.
  Same tread as a Pasela but with tougher sidewalls. I've used them for
  road rides, gravel road rides, and centuries. Give them a try. The
  Pasela 37s seem to be a little harder to find now that Riv doesn't
  have them. I wish they'd make a 700x40 T-Serve.

  --mike

  On Apr 20, 8:32 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:
   Hi,

   I am looking for a wider tire than my Jack Brown Greens, that is also
   supple and has low rolling resistance (yes, a 700C Hetre). Does anyone
   have experience with 2 out of these 3 tires and can compare them both
   in terms of actual width and ride quality?

   There have been a couple of posts claiming the 35 and 37 Paselas are
   both 36mm. Do they ride differently?

   Thanks,

   Gernot

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 Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
 wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym.  ~Bill Nye,
 scientist guy

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[RBW] Re: unclaimed custom?

2010-04-20 Thread doug peterson
If there was a minor cosmetic flaw on that bike in San Diego, it was
missed by at least a dozen (or two) critical inspectors.  The
detailing is fantastic!  As to sizing, Ken, you can always make 'em
bigger; they're a bit harder to shrink.

dougP

On Apr 20, 5:59 pm, Ken Yokanovich reflector.collec...@gmail.com
wrote:
 Whatever it it, it certainly raises my curiosity level.  I think
 cosmetic details are important because I find bicycles beautiful,
 functional art.  But, I don't think that anything outside of a
 horrible color would be cosmetic enough to prevent me from interest in
 a bicycle.  Oh, and one of my very favorite forms of riding is fixed
 gear off road riding.  It's the ultimate under-bike experience.  So,
 if this mystery bike is a fixed gear off roader, I'm really
 interested.

 On Apr 20, 7:13 pm, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:

 http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/230

  Wondering if it is the fixed gear mtn bike from the San Diego Show?
  Can not imagine it would be something to take a loss on.  Even with
  the current state of the union something that created that much drool
  must have value.  No telling if that is the one though.

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[RBW] Re: Pasela 35/37 or Marathon Racer 38?

2010-04-20 Thread Mike
You could just go with the basic wire bead Marathon that Riv sells:

http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/schwalbe-marathon/10-068

They're not supple but they're not that bad, especially when you
consider the price. The model Riv sells measures 41 so it should fit
on the Hillborne. They're nice off road, durable and confidence
inspiring.

mike


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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread doug peterson
I just re-assembled a bike with STI for someone who had it shipped
(that's a disclaimer so no one thinks I really know anything about the
stuff).  In checking that everything worked, the front shifts 1 ring
for each push of the lever.  The lever must be released and return to
rest before shifting to the next ring.  There seems to be some sort of
ratchet mechanism in there.  So the short answer is yes, STI indexes
on the front.  The bike in question is a few years old Specialized
aluminum racy road bike, triple front  8 speed rear.

dougP

On Apr 20, 7:46 pm, Shaun Meehan meehan.sh...@gmail.com wrote:
 I think some of the early Shimano brifters had indexed front shifting
 too. Didn't they? RX100...

 Shaun Meehan

 On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 9:35 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
  MTBs index the front.

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[RBW] Re: RBW Saddle Height question

2010-04-20 Thread happyriding
pbh: 91.5
saddle height: currently 83cm

I tend to move my saddle height around between 83cm-84cm depending on
how my knees are feeling.  Last year, I was recovering from a broken
leg, and I had to lower it a bit to 83cm.

How many of you use this formula?

Not me.  I wasn't aware of it.  My difference is 8.5-9.5 cm.


 Do you
 adjust it if you place the saddle all the way back on its rails?
 (Relateddon't laugh...where does one measure the top of the
 saddle...the area where you sit, the area right over the seat post?

If you think about it, ramming your saddle as far back as it will go
is the same as having a bike with a slacker/shallower/lower-number-
numerically seat tube angle with the saddle centered on the rails.  So
I suggest you measure from the center of the BB to the place where you
sit on the saddle--not along the seat tube.  The idea is to set the
reach for your legs, so the location of the seat tube is irrelevant.

Be careful adjusting your saddle height.  The recommendation is to do
it in small increments. If you feel pain in the back of your knee,
which can feel like you pulled a muscle in the back of your leg, the
saddle is too high.  Alternately, if you feel pain or tendonitis in
the front of your knee, the saddle is too low.

An ad hock rule is usually just an average.  Whether the average works
for you or not, you'll have to see.  If you are just starting to
cycle, then you have to start somewhere.  Then pay attention to how
your knees feel and adjust from there.

As Tim McNamara pointed out, what I've heard termed as 'ankling' plays
a role as well.  Do you naturally pedal with your toes pointed down,
i.e. with your heel higher then your toes, or with your feet parallel
to the ground?  I don't think there is a correct way--just different
natural tendencies.  Obviously, if you point your toes down, your
saddle will be higher than your twin's saddle if he pedals with his
feet flat.

If you were interested in achieving maximum power output, you could go
to a professional fitter, and they could hook you up to a Compu-
Trainer and then measure power output with various positions, saddle
heights, and fore-aft cleat adjustments.


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[RBW] Re: RBW Saddle Height question

2010-04-20 Thread happyriding
On Apr 20, 10:09 am, RM b...@san.rr.com wrote:
 My PBH: 87cm, SH: 76cm. 11cm difference

 My saddle height was established 10 years ago during two training camps and 
 bike fits at the Boulder Center for Sports Medicine with Dr Andy Pruitt and 
 has been spot on for my comfort ever since. There is no black magic to 
 Rivendell's fit formula, it's about right in the center of what works for 
 most people's bio-geometry.


I wonder if you could give some more details.  I almost went to get
fit by Dr. Andy Pruitt many years ago.  Did you have aches and pains
that went away after the fit?  Does he still do fittings?

Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread happyriding
Thanks for the replies.  Richard, thanks for the velo orange link.
I've read Peter White's article before, but I'm going to read it
again.

I was under the impression that bar end shifters had two modes: index
and friction.  If the bar end shifters are in index mode for the front
derailleur, do you need ramps and pins for smooth shifting?  Or do
most people with triples run the front derailleur in friction mode?

Thanks.

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