[RBW] Re: Silver shifter break apart diagram

2010-07-19 Thread Earl Grey
I know this wasn't your question, but

is the pod stuck, or are you turning the allen key the wrong way? Bar-
end shifter pods (at least Shimano?) are loosened from the bars by a
clockwise turning of the key, IIRC. In other words, reverse threaded.
Someone correct me if I am wrong.

Good luck,

Gernot

On Jul 17, 4:55 am, David T. davidtren...@yahoo.ca wrote:
 I had that happen, I looked at the other one to figure it out. After I
 spent about half an hour finding the little spring on the carpet.

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[RBW] Re: double-top-tube hillborne sighted in wild

2010-07-19 Thread Earl Grey
Lovely.

May I suggest a tweak? Shorten the kickstand (a simple hacksaw will
do). But don't cut it too short. If you want to run wider tires at
some point, leave it long enough so it will work with the widest tires
that fit. Another way to shorten the kickstand for your medium tires
if you don't want to take a saw to it is to take off the kick stand's
rubber feet and put them in a safe place at home so you don't have to
lift the bike as high to get it onto the stand. That's what I do with
my Sam and my JB Greens. If I mount my big fat knobby 42mms, I put the
rubber foot back on.

Cheers,

Gernot


On Jul 19, 9:14 am, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
wrote:
 All over but the shouting. Now the only things left to do are to cut
 the rear rack stays and to put on the reel lights. Oh, and mount a new
 rear brake. Then ...let the tweaking begin!

 http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/7568778/1/Samuel%20Hillborne%205?h=f99605

 Yours,
 Thomas Lynn Skean

 On Jul 11, 5:02 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
 wrote:



  First real ride of the build!

  iPhone (3G, unfortunately), so not particularly stunning. But they
  wouldn't be anyway, given that I'm handling the camera.

 http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/7568778/1/Samuel%20Hillborne%204%20-%2...

  Yours,
  Thoams Lynn Skean

  On Jul 4, 7:42 am, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
  wrote:

   More quantity, probably no more quality. It is now ride-able (and is
   really nice to ride!). But obviously many things are yet to be done.

  http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/7568778/1/Samuel%20Hillborne%202?h=29474f

   Previously thought unthinkable, I have discovered that there are in
   fact non-weird bikes with Handlebars That Are Too High. Which is truly
   great! I'll lower them later. More build pics after fleshing out
   stuff...

   Yours,
   Thomas Lynn Skean- Hide quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] Re: double-top-tube hillborne sighted in wild

2010-07-19 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
Hi!

Yes, I've already chopped over 40mm off. It could probably stand to be another 
10-15mm shorter. But I want to have some margin for uneven surfaces. I don't 
know; I'm going to be chopping the rear rack stays while I still have a 
friend's dremel-ish rotary tool (fun and scary to use). Perhaps I'll lop off 
someorr kickstand while I'm at it. I have a spare. And if I go just a litle too 
far then I'm sure some 650B- or 26-wheel rider on this list wouldn't mind 
having a customized kickstand for cheap! Isn't the smallest Hunqa going to be 
a 26-er? :)

Keep those tweak ideas comin'i

Thanks!

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean


On Jul 19, 2010, at 3:52 AM, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:

 Lovely.
 
 May I suggest a tweak? Shorten the kickstand (a simple hacksaw will
 do). But don't cut it too short. If you want to run wider tires at
 some point, leave it long enough so it will work with the widest tires
 that fit. Another way to shorten the kickstand for your medium tires
 if you don't want to take a saw to it is to take off the kick stand's
 rubber feet and put them in a safe place at home so you don't have to
 lift the bike as high to get it onto the stand. That's what I do with
 my Sam and my JB Greens. If I mount my big fat knobby 42mms, I put the
 rubber foot back on.
 
 Cheers,
 
 Gernot
 
 
 On Jul 19, 9:14 am, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
 wrote:
 All over but the shouting. Now the only things left to do are to cut
 the rear rack stays and to put on the reel lights. Oh, and mount a new
 rear brake. Then ...let the tweaking begin!
 
 http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/7568778/1/Samuel%20Hillborne%205?h=f99605
 
 Yours,
 Thomas Lynn Skean
 
 On Jul 11, 5:02 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
 wrote:
 
 
 
 First real ride of the build!
 
 iPhone (3G, unfortunately), so not particularly stunning. But they
 wouldn't be anyway, given that I'm handling the camera.
 
 http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/7568778/1/Samuel%20Hillborne%204%20-%2...
 
 Yours,
 Thoams Lynn Skean
 
 On Jul 4, 7:42 am, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
 wrote:
 
 More quantity, probably no more quality. It is now ride-able (and is
 really nice to ride!). But obviously many things are yet to be done.
 
 http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/7568778/1/Samuel%20Hillborne%202?h=29474f
 
 Previously thought unthinkable, I have discovered that there are in
 fact non-weird bikes with Handlebars That Are Too High. Which is truly
 great! I'll lower them later. More build pics after fleshing out
 stuff...
 
 Yours,
 Thomas Lynn Skean- Hide quoted text -
 
 - Show quoted text -
 
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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-19 Thread Angus
I think they are worth it.  Phils are a bit pricey (esp the cassette
hub) but are very well done.

On my road bikes I'm also in the haven't touched the Phil hubs (or
BB) in over 10 years camp.

I raced a Rivendell Cyclocross bike for four years, I replaced one non-
driveside rear bearing towards the end of that time frame.  Those
wheels have an additional seven years of service on a
Rambouillet...with no additional maintenance.  I think that is pretty
good!

Same story on a MTB, rear Phil hub, one non-drive side bearing in over
10 years.  The Shimano hubs I was using prior would last 1-3 years,
drive side seals were not good, broke internal parts etc...

Angus

On Jul 16, 4:02 pm, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:
 I plan to purchase a Betty FoyI have been oggling the Betty Foy's
 online since as long as they have been around, and the Glorius before
 her.   This would be my first Riv (and probably only as I don't have
 huge expendable income).  This is a major purchase form me so I am
 thinking it would be worth it to make sure I don't just go cheap, but
 get it built up to something that I will love for years and years and
 not wish I had spent a little more to get an upgrated X or Y.

 I plan to use the Betty Foy for short tours (7-10 days likely the
 longest), bike commuting, tootling around town, and perhaps centuries
 or longer (I have a very lightweight road bike that has served this
 purpose but is not suited for touring, commuting, tootling, etc).

 Smy thought is that the wheelset would be the most important
 thing to upgrade (beyond the 'budget' wheelset.  Are the Phil Wood
 hubs really worth the money?  What would you do?  I am hugely
 intimdated by the cost but am intreged with the 'Riv' Phil Wood hubs
 that work with a freewheel.   I have no experience in this area as my
 only bike has a cassette.

 What would you upgrade and why?

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[RBW] Tires for Sam Hillborne

2010-07-19 Thread EricP
Been contemplating tires again on my Hillborne.  About a week and a
half ago, pulled the Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 700x40 off and went
with the positively skinny Panaracer Pasela TG 700x35.  Now, while
these tires seem heavier than the Schwalbe, paradoxically the bike
seems faster.

However, part of me is going why not shove in the biggest tire the
bike can take with fenders?  Then I could slightly lower the pressure
and go for more cush.

Incidently, next weekend will be riding on a limestone rail/trail.
Something worth considering.  Maybe the 35s are too skinny for that
type of adventure?

Opinions?

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Sam Hillborne

2010-07-19 Thread Mike
Last year I toured on Schwalbe Marathon 700x47 (actual 41) and they
were fine. Sure, they're a bit sluggish but fine for touring. No flats
and performed well off-road. I got them through Rivendell and they
were really quite cheap. And considering how well they wear, they're
about one of the best deals out there for a tire. Currently I have
Schwalbe Marathon 700x40 (37?) on my Hilsen and am heading out for a
camping trip. I like those also, I pulled them off my commuter. I'm
expecting them to perform about the same, just a little less cush.

--mike

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-19 Thread Ginz
Here's a few upgrade ideas:

Pedals - on a long ride, a nice, smooth pair of pedals with
comfortable clips and straps (if you use them) are a true luxury.
Check out the Grip Kings, White Industries Urban Pedals, Soma double-
toe straps and/or the VO leather-clap toe clips.  Rectangular cage
pedals are ok, but can dig into your sole (and maybe your soul) after
a while.

Brake Levers - If you are using drop bars, go for the Shimano Tiagras.
They are worth it.  If using Albatross bars (do choose the Albatross
over the Dove), there aren't may upgrade options but the Paul levers
for Cantis are nice.

Shifters - definitely use the Silvers.  If you must index, the Shimano
Ultegras.  If you must index, then you'll really want to get a
Cassette hub as you will need an 8 speed cassette.  So, this is a key
descision relative to your choice of hubs.

Bottom Bracket - you could go for a Phil but I'd suggest putting the
money towards other things first.  The $40 BB will last plenty long.

Headset - There aren't too many nice looking, silver upgrades
available in 1.  Chris King is a bit garish for a Betty Foy.  Cane
Creek is a little more subdued but still has logos.  Campy Record
might be a good choice but worth $100?  Hmm... that will start another
long discussion.

Brake pads - Request salmon brake pads.  They are a luxury and are
worth the few extra bucks.

Racks - The Nitto Mark's rack is so nice on a Betty Foy.  The Nitto
full racks are beautiful though pricey.

On Jul 19, 1:11 am, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:
 So for those of you who are using IRD freewheels with your PW hubs,
 what are your thoughts on the QC issues that IRD has had.   The folks
 at Rivendell seem to think the problems are over but reading various
 online forums, I am not so sure.

 Keely

 On Jul 18, 10:26 am, Philip Williamson philip.william...@gmail.com
 wrote:



  +1 on a Schmidt as the preferred hub upgrade.

   philip
  97128

  On Jul 17, 10:02 pm, All Rounder 2000 s_schermerh...@yahoo.com
  wrote:

   I have bikes with PW (Freewheel), SunTour (FW), and Shimano hubs
   (Cassette).
   I agree with all I've seen here.
   For me, the most practical difference has been the service after the
   sale.
   On two occasions I've had slight problems with PW gear and a quick
   phone call to PW HQ and the bearings or other parts are on their way,
   one time for free.
   Specifically, the issues were:
   *Car camped throughout southern Utah Red Rock, with my bike on the
   back of the car. Grit got into the BB bearings and killed it. PW
   replaced the BB. (for free!)
   *Needed to repurpose a hub for use on a 135 rear spacing 7 speed, to a
   132.5 5 speed. On the phone, PW told me what I needed, and sent for a
   very small fee.

   UPGRADE IDEA for you:
   For touring, and general night riding, I can highly recommend the
   Schmidt Dynohub for the front wheel. I've ridden this hub at least
   50 miles per week for the last 10 years, and it is like new.- Hide 
   quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: setup question for IRD Alpina-d on Sam

2010-07-19 Thread Ginz
Yep, that's how mine is setup.

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Sam Hillborne

2010-07-19 Thread Erik C

I've ridden miles of crushed limestone rail trails in WI on my 650b
Grand Bois Cypres (32mm) and my wife was on Pasela TGs 700x37 I
believe, with no complaints from either of us. I now live in western
MN on gravel roads. The tires felt much more surefooted on the crushed
limestone. They aren't bad on the gravel, just not as stable as I was
hoping in some of the looser stuff.

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[RBW] One reason for us to like bigger tires

2010-07-19 Thread Anne Paulson
Strapped cities and counties turning paved roads into gravel roads:

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748704913304575370950363737746.html

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[RBW] Re: FS: Shimano bar end shifters, San Marco Rolls

2010-07-19 Thread Ginz
Hello,

Do the bar end shifters include the bar mount pods?

Thanks

On Jul 15, 7:43 pm, franklyn sini...@msn.com wrote:
 Hi,

 I have a pair of Shimano Bar-end shifters. This was a pair of 8-speed
 indexed/friction shifters, but the index mode for the right lever
 stopped working, but it still works perfectly in friction mode. $25
 shipped. (looking for trade: silver downtube shifters)

 Another thing I have is a Selle San Marco Rolls saddle. Black with
 pattern; ti rail. like new conditions. $75 shipped CONUS. Here are
 pictures:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/franklyn/4785512480/

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/franklyn/4785511512/in/photostream/

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/franklyn/4784878125/in/photostream/

 Franklyn

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Re: [RBW] Tires for Sam Hillborne

2010-07-19 Thread cyclotourist
That's funny, Eric.  I had the same experience after moving to some fat
(44ish) Contis.  The 35mm Paselas seem like racing slicks in comparison!!!



On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 6:49 AM, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:

 Been contemplating tires again on my Hillborne.  About a week and a
 half ago, pulled the Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 700x40 off and went
 with the positively skinny Panaracer Pasela TG 700x35.  Now, while
 these tires seem heavier than the Schwalbe, paradoxically the bike
 seems faster.

 However, part of me is going why not shove in the biggest tire the
 bike can take with fenders?  Then I could slightly lower the pressure
 and go for more cush.

 Incidently, next weekend will be riding on a limestone rail/trail.
 Something worth considering.  Maybe the 35s are too skinny for that
 type of adventure?

 Opinions?

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN

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-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym.  ~Bill Nye,
scientist guy

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-19 Thread Andreas
If you are putting ten thousands of miles on the hub they may be worth
it.
In case you cycling where a hub problem would be catastrophic it would
be worth it.
If you mind repacking a shimano hub every year (or 10,000 miles) they
are worth it.

Shimano hubs are great.  And for your intended purpose they are fine.
Save money, go with an ultegra hub.

PS: I ride PW, Shimano, Schmidt and DT hubs and have used each for
many thousands of miles.

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[RBW] 650b vs. Big Apples

2010-07-19 Thread mr.trout
I am contemplating doing the big change over. Can anyone please
explain the difference in ride qualities in something like Big Apples
vs. a nice pair of 650b tires? Demi-balloon vs balloon? Would the 650b
tires feel a little quicker?
Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-19 Thread Garth
Powderpiggy,   I use FW's exclusively with 2 sets of Phil Touring
Hubs. I use mostly Sachs at present, but still have some Suntour
FW's.  Because of the very inconsistent quality of the IRD's , I've
stayed away from them.  I don't like IRD's cog selection on the 13-32
either, the 15-18 jump is too big, especially in the big ring. A
15-17-20-24 progression is perfect.

 IRD had supposedly fixed their problems, but even some of their
latest ones are prone to failure, from what I've read in probably the
same forums.  For the premium price IRD retails for, this is just not
acceptable. I've been able to amass a large selection of Sachs and
Suntour bodies and cogs, but most people can't do that, it takes a
long time. For new users, the only other choices are Shimano and
Sunrace and other assorted Asian brands, but the cog selection is even
more limited.

IRD has some more FW's due this summer, I don't know if these will
called Mark V, or what. but I sure hope they fix their issues. It
does no one any good to have FW failures. Weather this is a mass or
isolated problem, the public perception of many is that IRD FW's are
overpriced and unreliable.

The Velo Orange guy has even been pondering making FW's as they have
some new FW hubs being made for them. That would be a welcomed
addition to the FW supply. .  .  .granted they're made well.

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[RBW] Re: 650b vs. Big Apples

2010-07-19 Thread Patrick in VT
On Jul 19, 9:31 am, mr.trout ianet...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I am contemplating doing the big change over. Can anyone please
 explain the difference in ride qualities in something like Big Apples
 vs. a nice pair of 650b tires? Demi-balloon vs balloon? Would the 650b
 tires feel a little quicker?

i don't know the numbers, but I'm guessing the Big Apple weighs about
2-3 times more than a tire like the Pacenti Pari-Moto.  but, by all
accounts, the Big Apple is a great rolling tire.  comfort is a given.

Will 650b tires feel quicker?  yes, probably - the nice ones are
lighter and sport some fancy casings.  but, it really depends on how/
where you ride.  If you want something performance oriented, I'd go
with 650b.  If you just want fat, comfortable, durable tires and don't
care about the extra weight/performance stuff - well, i'd probably
still go with 650b.  but Big Apples would be great too, i'm sure.

what kind of riding do you plan on doing?




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[RBW] Re: 650b vs. Big Apples

2010-07-19 Thread JoelMatthews
700x60 or even 50 are big tires.  They put you higher off the street.
Not an issue if you are taller and have a larger bike.

Average to shorter riders get something of the feeling lamplighters
used to get on larger bikes.  Leastways that is how I felt when I put
Big Apples on a road bike.

As Patrick says, BAs are well made and roll wonderfully.  There is an
account from a (an apparently tall) Dutch Rider who used BAs on his
ride across the United States.  He did not have one flat.  They are
good tires if you have the right bike.

On the other hand, average height to shorter riders get a lot of the
same benefits with 650bs.  Nice, cush wide tires without putting you
into outerspace.  That is why I am going 650b.

On Jul 19, 8:31 am, mr.trout ianet...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I am contemplating doing the big change over. Can anyone please
 explain the difference in ride qualities in something like Big Apples
 vs. a nice pair of 650b tires? Demi-balloon vs balloon? Would the 650b
 tires feel a little quicker?
 Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-19 Thread JoelMatthews
  Chris King is a bit garish for a Betty Foy.

Sotto Voce CK headsets do not have that visible a logo.  Same with the
Ti if you can afford it.

On Jul 19, 9:04 am, Ginz theg...@gmail.com wrote:
 Here's a few upgrade ideas:

 Pedals - on a long ride, a nice, smooth pair of pedals with
 comfortable clips and straps (if you use them) are a true luxury.
 Check out the Grip Kings, White Industries Urban Pedals, Soma double-
 toe straps and/or the VO leather-clap toe clips.  Rectangular cage
 pedals are ok, but can dig into your sole (and maybe your soul) after
 a while.

 Brake Levers - If you are using drop bars, go for the Shimano Tiagras.
 They are worth it.  If using Albatross bars (do choose the Albatross
 over the Dove), there aren't may upgrade options but the Paul levers
 for Cantis are nice.

 Shifters - definitely use the Silvers.  If you must index, the Shimano
 Ultegras.  If you must index, then you'll really want to get a
 Cassette hub as you will need an 8 speed cassette.  So, this is a key
 descision relative to your choice of hubs.

 Bottom Bracket - you could go for a Phil but I'd suggest putting the
 money towards other things first.  The $40 BB will last plenty long.

 Headset - There aren't too many nice looking, silver upgrades
 available in 1.  Chris King is a bit garish for a Betty Foy.  Cane
 Creek is a little more subdued but still has logos.  Campy Record
 might be a good choice but worth $100?  Hmm... that will start another
 long discussion.

 Brake pads - Request salmon brake pads.  They are a luxury and are
 worth the few extra bucks.

 Racks - The Nitto Mark's rack is so nice on a Betty Foy.  The Nitto
 full racks are beautiful though pricey.

 On Jul 19, 1:11 am, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:



  So for those of you who are using IRD freewheels with your PW hubs,
  what are your thoughts on the QC issues that IRD has had.   The folks
  at Rivendell seem to think the problems are over but reading various
  online forums, I am not so sure.

  Keely

  On Jul 18, 10:26 am, Philip Williamson philip.william...@gmail.com
  wrote:

   +1 on a Schmidt as the preferred hub upgrade.

    philip
   97128

   On Jul 17, 10:02 pm, All Rounder 2000 s_schermerh...@yahoo.com
   wrote:

I have bikes with PW (Freewheel), SunTour (FW), and Shimano hubs
(Cassette).
I agree with all I've seen here.
For me, the most practical difference has been the service after the
sale.
On two occasions I've had slight problems with PW gear and a quick
phone call to PW HQ and the bearings or other parts are on their way,
one time for free.
Specifically, the issues were:
*Car camped throughout southern Utah Red Rock, with my bike on the
back of the car. Grit got into the BB bearings and killed it. PW
replaced the BB. (for free!)
*Needed to repurpose a hub for use on a 135 rear spacing 7 speed, to a
132.5 5 speed. On the phone, PW told me what I needed, and sent for a
very small fee.

UPGRADE IDEA for you:
For touring, and general night riding, I can highly recommend the
Schmidt Dynohub for the front wheel. I've ridden this hub at least
50 miles per week for the last 10 years, and it is like new.- Hide 
quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: setup question for IRD Alpina-d on Sam

2010-07-19 Thread William
Looks right now.  Well done.

On Jul 18, 7:12 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
wrote:
 Okay, all I have is an after picture, which is not that good.
 Apparently a very significant aspect of the alpina-d derailer is my
 complete inability to take a good picture of it.

 http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/7568778/1/Samuel%20Hillborne%20-%20der...

 Yours,
 Thomas Lynn Skean

 On Jul 16, 9:25 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
 wrote:

  Yep, when I look at it now and ignore the channel (I'm friction-shifting in 
  the front; I have no reason to follow an STI-intended cable path), I see 
  what effect routing over the nubby-thingy will have; it'll change the angle 
  of the cable's path to the mechanism in such a way, it appears, that would 
  lower the amount of derailer travel for a given amount of cable 
  pull-or-release, slowing the shifting. I certainly see no downside there. 
  When I shift in front, deliberate and controlled are much more important 
  than fast. And a big reason I prefer friction shifting in the front is to 
  be able to trim the chain angle; being able to do that with more 
  precision is also a plus.

  It might even reduce/eliminate the interference that inspired this thread 
  in the first place.

  Before-and-after pictures (*good* ones this time) to follow.

  Thanks, William.

  Yours,
  Thomas Lynn Skean

  On Jul 16, 2010, at 6:24 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

   No 180 bends.  Just over the knub and over the bolt and tighten.  Just
   like in the picture.  If there is a channel that appears to run under
   the knub thing, that is the alternate routing for STI and a triple.

   On Jul 16, 3:47 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
   wrote:
   Thanks for that info, William. I'll look at it again tonight.

   Any idea what role that channel is supposed to play? My vague 
   recollection is that I'll need to bend the cable 180 degrees to go over 
   the nub and through the channel. If so, that seems harsh somehow.

   Yours,
   Thomas Lynn Skean

   On Jul 16, 2010, at 4:59 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

   Here's the photo of the cable routed correctly on a not-identical
   derailleur.

  http://softsolder.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/dsc03170-front-deraille...

   On Jul 16, 2:57 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
   I agree it's not a problem, but from your photos it does appear that
   you have your cable routed wrong.

   In that third photo, the anchor bolt thread into the derailleur arm.
   On the arm is a bump, an appendage, a knubby thing.  The cable is
   supposed to wrap OVER that knubby thing.  From the picture, it looks
   like you have it neatly tucked UNDER that knubby thing.

   With the cable routed the way you appear to have it, a couple things
   are going to happen.  The potentially good thing is that your shifting
   will feel faster.  The derailleur will move farther with a smaller
   move of the shiftlever.  The bad things are twofold.  One is you are
   putting more bending strain on the cable routed that way, so it will
   fail sooner.  Whether sooner is 9 years instead of 10, or 1 year
   instead of 10 is hard to predict.  The second thing is that with the
   faster moving derailleur geometry, it's trickier to trim out the rubs
   with delicate shifter moves.

   I recommend you confirm that the cable is routed correctly, completely
   independent of whether it touches that cylinder.

   On Jul 16, 2:41 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
   wrote:

   Here are really grainy photos of my setup:

  http://home.comcast.net/~thomaslynnskean/site/?/photos/

   first picture is when the chain is on the middle chain ring, (barely)
   showing the cable straight and clear

   second picture is when the chain is on the inner chain ring, (barely)
   showing the cable bending around the black cylinder

   third picture is simply showing how the cable is anchored, which is
   apparently the way the derailer intends to have the cable anchored, in
   that there is a slight channel under where the anchor bolt squeezes
   and the cable is lined up with it

   As I say, the interference appears to affect nothing. So (especially
   knowing that the black cylinder need not roll at all) I'm fine with it
   as it is. And that's good, because I can't see that I can avoid the
   interference.

   Thanks for helping me look into this!

   Yours,
   Thomas Lynn Skean

   On Jul 15, 8:36 pm, Ginz theg...@gmail.com wrote:

   I had a look and, yes, my cable touches the black cylinder as well.
   I, too, find it a bit odd but seems harmless.

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-19 Thread msrw
I used PW hubs and bottom brackets for years on a tandem, and on one
of my racing bikes.

Since everyone has covered the advantages, I'll mention one possible
negative:

PW hubs aren't all that sophisticated in terms of the bearing seals,
so if you use the hubs in extreme conditions, they may not yield the
level of reliability that they have for most users.

That said, the only reports that have ever emerged (to my knowledge)
on hub failures have come from the randonneuring community, who may
tend to ride longer and in worse conditions that all but the most
extreme cyclists in other categories.

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[RBW] WTT: Mark's Rack for your Nitto Mini

2010-07-19 Thread Ginz
Hello,

Would anyone like to trade my lightly used Mark's rack (struts have
never been trimmed) for your Nitto Mini front rack?

Please reply off list and thanks!

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b vs. Big Apples

2010-07-19 Thread Brian Hanson
I think it's perception.  You don't get Big Apples for speed - I got them
for the cush ride.  I have 26x2.1s on my mtb (beater bike), and they
transformed the bumpy, rutty commute to a smooth Cadillac glide that I
immediately loved.  I have them at 30psi, so that helps.

Even so, I was coasting down a long hill the other day behind a gal on 23c
road slicks, and was gaining on her.  It's all physics at that point (mass,
friction, aerodynamics).

Brian

On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 9:46 AM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

 700x60 or even 50 are big tires.  They put you higher off the street.
 Not an issue if you are taller and have a larger bike.

 Average to shorter riders get something of the feeling lamplighters
 used to get on larger bikes.  Leastways that is how I felt when I put
 Big Apples on a road bike.

 As Patrick says, BAs are well made and roll wonderfully.  There is an
 account from a (an apparently tall) Dutch Rider who used BAs on his
 ride across the United States.  He did not have one flat.  They are
 good tires if you have the right bike.

 On the other hand, average height to shorter riders get a lot of the
 same benefits with 650bs.  Nice, cush wide tires without putting you
 into outerspace.  That is why I am going 650b.

 On Jul 19, 8:31 am, mr.trout ianet...@yahoo.com wrote:
  I am contemplating doing the big change over. Can anyone please
  explain the difference in ride qualities in something like Big Apples
  vs. a nice pair of 650b tires? Demi-balloon vs balloon? Would the 650b
  tires feel a little quicker?
  Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Sam Hillborne

2010-07-19 Thread jandrews_nyc
After riding Pasela TG 37's (which I love) on my Hillborne for about
six months, I would like something bigger for the occasional off road
ride..(without fenders).  I called Riv HQ a couple months ago and
asked about the Supreme 50's bc the Riv website says they actually
measure around 45mm on a Synergy rim.
The Hillborne is rated to take 44mm max without Fenders.  I can't
remember who I spoke with, but they tested a set of 50's on a Green 56
Hillborne frame, like mine..and said they barely fit...but they do
indeed fit, just a tiny bit of clearance.
FWIW, when I was at Rivendell last August, Kevin told me that the
orange Hillbornes have just a bit more tire clearance than the Green
Hillbornes.  I think he said the chainstays are rolled in a little
more.  I've been curious if the Dureme 50's also measure an actual
45mm like the Supreme's...(on a 22mm rim), but I can't find that data
anywhere.
Still I think I'm going to order a pair of Supreme 50's and hope for
the best.

I'm thinking of using my budget deore wheelset as the offroad one and
keep the big tires on permanently, as I've recently had a front dynamo
wheel built.  Now I just need to find a way to make a rear 7 speed
Phil FW wheel happen.

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[RBW] Re: 650b vs. Big Apples

2010-07-19 Thread William
Are you saying that you are considering doing a 650B conversion on an
existing bike?  If so, your biggest thing might be comparing your
resulting range of BB heights and figure out if any of them are too
high or too low.  The radius of a wheel with 700x60 Big apples will be
371mm nominally.  The radius of a 650B Pari-moto (for example) will be
330mm.  The difference between those two is 1.6 inches.  So your
standover would be 1.6 inches different, your BB height would be 1.6
inches different.  I'd imagine that one of those two would be too
high, or the other too low, or maybe even both.



On Jul 19, 6:31 am, mr.trout ianet...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I am contemplating doing the big change over. Can anyone please
 explain the difference in ride qualities in something like Big Apples
 vs. a nice pair of 650b tires? Demi-balloon vs balloon? Would the 650b
 tires feel a little quicker?
 Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Sam Hillborne

2010-07-19 Thread jlvota
I have ridden limestone with 32mm Panaracer RiBMos and had absolutely
no complaints.  The ride was smooth but still fast, and the 32mm tires
felt like a perfect match for that terrain; even on the few loose
spots and bumpy wash-outs.

The person I was ridding with was using 28mm Coninental Gatorskins and
he also seemed to think that they were a very good fit (it is
important to note that he is also a triathelete and roadie who
frequently rides bikes with ~23mm tires so 28mm to him is fat).

Contrary to that, I know many people who have ridden the same trail
with ~2.1 mountain tires and also have no complaints, and think that
the hard-packed limestone is very forgiving and enjoyable for almost
any type of tire with a conservative tread 28mm.  I think that with
limestone, a lot of the cush you are seeking comes from the trail
itself as well as the tire.


On Jul 19, 8:49 am, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:
 Been contemplating tires again on my Hillborne.  About a week and a
 half ago, pulled the Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 700x40 off and went
 with the positively skinny Panaracer Pasela TG 700x35.  Now, while
 these tires seem heavier than the Schwalbe, paradoxically the bike
 seems faster.

 However, part of me is going why not shove in the biggest tire the
 bike can take with fenders?  Then I could slightly lower the pressure
 and go for more cush.

 Incidently, next weekend will be riding on a limestone rail/trail.
 Something worth considering.  Maybe the 35s are too skinny for that
 type of adventure?

 Opinions?

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b vs. Big Apples

2010-07-19 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I think that the alternative makes sense for a 559 wheels conversion but
hardly for a 622 conversion; for one thing, it is a rare 700c frame that
will accept 50 mm, let alone 60 mm tires.

The value of the alternative for a 559 wheel-designed frame is that 650B
allows you to run narrower, lighter tires while preserving the overall, 26
diameter of the wheel that, because the frame is designed for it, will best
preserve the frame's designed handling. 559 frames with 24 actual (559X1)
tires handle horribly; Paselas (559X25) are better but not the best; it
isn't until you start getting to a width of 40 mm or so that the frame has
the chance to exhibit its best handling.

Upshot: if you are speaking of a 700c frame, forget Big Apples, unless it's
a 29er frame. If a 26er frame, the BAs will roll nicely, handling will be
fine, and you can take on any surface that is not wet. If you want lighter,
faster tires, go for 650B.

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Re: [RBW] snotty responce

2010-07-19 Thread PATRICK MOORE
What provoked this? Whatever, please say on list. Relax, take 10 deeep
breaths, and drink 4 oz of good bourbon.

[G]nat's ass is good, very, very good!

Patrick old, slow and philosophical Moore

On Sun, Jul 18, 2010 at 10:37 PM, donald compton dcompton1...@sbcglobal.net
 wrote:

 seriously, i could give nat's ass, but the response to my ride in the
 healdsburg from ? regarding my typing skills is  B.S.. i am a retired real
 estate developer with an economics degree from cal. your friend should think
 a little before he tries to embolden his education stasis. i really enjoy my
 riv's and grant and the guys and gals at riv, but some of the riv riders are
 just too much. the reality is that i don't race, but i will never  ride with
 many of the riv folks. but, i don't get a big charge of making fun of them.
 and, believe me, riv owners are an easy target.
 don c.

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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood, or CK worth it.

2010-07-19 Thread trevor segraves
As for, non garish headsets, Ive got Hatta Swan headsets on 2 of my bikes the 
only marking if I recall correctly is a tiny NJS symbol, a little spendy, in 
the 
same price range as Chris King, yet beautiful, and as of yet, 2 years on my 
Maldoror, problem free. We'll see if it holds up as well as my 15 year old CK 
head set.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7649...@n02/4645660599/in/set-72157622117479721/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7649...@n02/3887850202/in/set-72157622117479721/

Cheers


From: JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Mon, July 19, 2010 9:48:51 AM
Subject: [RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

  Chris King is a bit garish for a Betty Foy.

Sotto Voce CK headsets do not have that visible a logo.  Same with the
Ti if you can afford it.

On Jul 19, 9:04 am, Ginz theg...@gmail.com wrote:
 Here's a few upgrade ideas:

 Pedals - on a long ride, a nice, smooth pair of pedals with
 comfortable clips and straps (if you use them) are a true luxury.
 Check out the Grip Kings, White Industries Urban Pedals, Soma double-
 toe straps and/or the VO leather-clap toe clips.  Rectangular cage
 pedals are ok, but can dig into your sole (and maybe your soul) after
 a while.

 Brake Levers - If you are using drop bars, go for the Shimano Tiagras.
 They are worth it.  If using Albatross bars (do choose the Albatross
 over the Dove), there aren't may upgrade options but the Paul levers
 for Cantis are nice.

 Shifters - definitely use the Silvers.  If you must index, the Shimano
 Ultegras.  If you must index, then you'll really want to get a
 Cassette hub as you will need an 8 speed cassette.  So, this is a key
 descision relative to your choice of hubs.

 Bottom Bracket - you could go for a Phil but I'd suggest putting the
 money towards other things first.  The $40 BB will last plenty long.

 Headset - There aren't too many nice looking, silver upgrades
 available in 1.  Chris King is a bit garish for a Betty Foy.  Cane
 Creek is a little more subdued but still has logos.  Campy Record
 might be a good choice but worth $100?  Hmm... that will start another
 long discussion.

 Brake pads - Request salmon brake pads.  They are a luxury and are
 worth the few extra bucks.

 Racks - The Nitto Mark's rack is so nice on a Betty Foy.  The Nitto
 full racks are beautiful though pricey.

 On Jul 19, 1:11 am, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:



  So for those of you who are using IRD freewheels with your PW hubs,
  what are your thoughts on the QC issues that IRD has had.   The folks
  at Rivendell seem to think the problems are over but reading various
  online forums, I am not so sure.

  Keely

  On Jul 18, 10:26 am, Philip Williamson philip.william...@gmail.com
  wrote:

   +1 on a Schmidt as the preferred hub upgrade.

philip
   97128

   On Jul 17, 10:02 pm, All Rounder 2000 s_schermerh...@yahoo.com
   wrote:

I have bikes with PW (Freewheel), SunTour (FW), and Shimano hubs
(Cassette).
I agree with all I've seen here.
For me, the most practical difference has been the service after the
sale.
On two occasions I've had slight problems with PW gear and a quick
phone call to PW HQ and the bearings or other parts are on their way,
one time for free.
Specifically, the issues were:
*Car camped throughout southern Utah Red Rock, with my bike on the
back of the car. Grit got into the BB bearings and killed it. PW
replaced the BB. (for free!)
*Needed to repurpose a hub for use on a 135 rear spacing 7 speed, to a
132.5 5 speed. On the phone, PW told me what I needed, and sent for a
very small fee.

UPGRADE IDEA for you:
For touring, and general night riding, I can highly recommend the
Schmidt Dynohub for the front wheel. I've ridden this hub at least
50 miles per week for the last 10 years, and it is like new.- Hide 
quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] S24O: tent or no tent?

2010-07-19 Thread John Speare
On Sun, Jul 18, 2010 at 8:47 AM, Ray Shine r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 I mostly agree with Rene. I have used a Hennessey hammock for extended
 backpacking trips.  It is very comfortable, but if the temperature drops
 below 35 degrees, it is difficult to stay warm in a hammock AND keep the
 weight down at the same time.


Hennessey hammock has an underquilt that packs away super light and
small. The whole set up is pricey, but it makes the hennessey a pretty
attractive option if you're willing to spend the money.

But even with a light pad, I've slept in the Hennessey in freezing
weather and done ok. When it stays warm all night (over 50F), nothing
beats a hammock in my opinion.

Btw: some people have had issues learning a quick and easy way to
deploy the Hennessey hammock. I camped with Alex Wetmore about a month
ago and he's got the system dialed in (big surprise there). He solves
the knot and hammock centering/leveling issue with a simple hardware
upgrade: http://tinyurl.com/265kyhf

And he solves the packing/unpacking with a quilt issue by stuffing the
whole thing in tubes of light fabric, so he can tie off to the trees
while the hammock is still stuffed in an intestine-looking tube. It
literally takes him under 5 minutes to get his hammock set up.

I only use bivvy for cold camping. If it's more than 45F or so at
night, a bivvy just melts me. But for early-season S24O or winter
camping where night time temps can fall below freezing, a bivvy is a
great super light solution. When it's raining, I'll bring along the
fly from my Hennessey: http://tinyurl.com/2fa8bvl


Another good option for hot summer with bugs is a bug tent:
http://www.rei.com/product/71
It's 1.5 lbs and about $50.

I don't ever haul tents around anymore. Though I probably would if I
camped at campgrounds where other people were camping close by.

-- 
John Speare
Spokane, WA USA
http://cyclingspokane.blogspot.com/

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[RBW] FS: Brooks B17 Narrow Brown

2010-07-19 Thread eflayer
FS: Brooks B17 Narrow Brown

I bought this thinking it might like my butt more than the standard
width B17.  But standard still works best for me.

This is the rich brown color, not honey.  Mounted in post, ridden
less than 5 miles. Wiped off with Proofhide.

With original packaging box and innards.

$95 shipped.  Paypal via the personal tab preferred.

Eddie
Berkeley, CA

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[RBW] Re: FS: Brooks B17 Narrow Brown

2010-07-19 Thread eflayer
nice photo here, just in case you need a viewing:

http://aebike.com/product/brooks-b17-narrow-antique-brown-top-black-rails-sku-sa1269-qc30.htm

On Jul 19, 11:47 am, eflayer eddie.fla...@att.net wrote:
 FS: Brooks B17 Narrow Brown

 I bought this thinking it might like my butt more than the standard
 width B17.  But standard still works best for me.

 This is the rich brown color, not honey.  Mounted in post, ridden
 less than 5 miles. Wiped off with Proofhide.

 With original packaging box and innards.

 $95 shipped.  Paypal via the personal tab preferred.

 Eddie
 Berkeley, CA

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-19 Thread Angus
I recently picked up a few Shimano free-wheels from my LBS (for my
Rivendells) at amazingly low prices.  We'll see how they do.

I've not had any problems with IRD free wheels, the Sun-Race free
wheels I used a while back wore gear teeth quite quickly.

Angus

On Jul 19, 12:11 am, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:
 So for those of you who are using IRD freewheels with your PW hubs,
 what are your thoughts on the QC issues that IRD has had.   The folks
 at Rivendell seem to think the problems are over but reading various
 online forums, I am not so sure.

 Keely

 On Jul 18, 10:26 am, Philip Williamson philip.william...@gmail.com
 wrote:



  +1 on a Schmidt as the preferred hub upgrade.

   philip
  97128

  On Jul 17, 10:02 pm, All Rounder 2000 s_schermerh...@yahoo.com
  wrote:

   I have bikes with PW (Freewheel), SunTour (FW), and Shimano hubs
   (Cassette).
   I agree with all I've seen here.
   For me, the most practical difference has been the service after the
   sale.
   On two occasions I've had slight problems with PW gear and a quick
   phone call to PW HQ and the bearings or other parts are on their way,
   one time for free.
   Specifically, the issues were:
   *Car camped throughout southern Utah Red Rock, with my bike on the
   back of the car. Grit got into the BB bearings and killed it. PW
   replaced the BB. (for free!)
   *Needed to repurpose a hub for use on a 135 rear spacing 7 speed, to a
   132.5 5 speed. On the phone, PW told me what I needed, and sent for a
   very small fee.

   UPGRADE IDEA for you:
   For touring, and general night riding, I can highly recommend the
   Schmidt Dynohub for the front wheel. I've ridden this hub at least
   50 miles per week for the last 10 years, and it is like new.- Hide 
   quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Sam Hillborne

2010-07-19 Thread Michael_S
I started with Schwalbe 40mm Smart Sams on my Sam ,a kinda cross tire
with knobs, fab in the dirt but slooow on long paved sections. I
switched to a 35mm Pasela's,  faster on the road and just OK in the
dirt. On the Smart Sams I could go pretty fast thru downhill dirt
corners, not so on the Paselas.  Then I picked up the 38mm Schwalbe
Marathon Racer's, much lower rolling resistance (faster) on pavement
then the Pasela, and about the same in the dirt.

I'm pretty happy with the Racer...except that goathead day, when I
ended up with 20 or so on the back and close to that on the front.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37347...@n05/4568075881/in/set-72157623110722902/

Lotsa choices...you have to pick something that works for your riding
skills and terrain

~Mike~

On Jul 19, 11:13 am, jlvota jlv...@ilstu.edu wrote:
 I have ridden limestone with 32mm Panaracer RiBMos and had absolutely
 no complaints.  The ride was smooth but still fast, and the 32mm tires
 felt like a perfect match for that terrain; even on the few loose
 spots and bumpy wash-outs.

 The person I was ridding with was using 28mm Coninental Gatorskins and
 he also seemed to think that they were a very good fit (it is
 important to note that he is also a triathelete and roadie who
 frequently rides bikes with ~23mm tires so 28mm to him is fat).

 Contrary to that, I know many people who have ridden the same trail
 with ~2.1 mountain tires and also have no complaints, and think that
 the hard-packed limestone is very forgiving and enjoyable for almost
 any type of tire with a conservative tread 28mm.  I think that with
 limestone, a lot of the cush you are seeking comes from the trail
 itself as well as the tire.

 On Jul 19, 8:49 am, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:



  Been contemplating tires again on my Hillborne.  About a week and a
  half ago, pulled the Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 700x40 off and went
  with the positively skinny Panaracer Pasela TG 700x35.  Now, while
  these tires seem heavier than the Schwalbe, paradoxically the bike
  seems faster.

  However, part of me is going why not shove in the biggest tire the
  bike can take with fenders?  Then I could slightly lower the pressure
  and go for more cush.

  Incidently, next weekend will be riding on a limestone rail/trail.
  Something worth considering.  Maybe the 35s are too skinny for that
  type of adventure?

  Opinions?

  Eric Platt
  St. Paul, MN- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-19 Thread BykMor
I don't know. I'll tell you in 20,000 miles when mine wears out ;-)

BykMor

On Jul 18, 11:26 am, Philip Williamson philip.william...@gmail.com
wrote:
 +1 on a Schmidt as the preferred hub upgrade.

  philip
 97128

 On Jul 17, 10:02 pm, All Rounder 2000 s_schermerh...@yahoo.com
 wrote: I have bikes with PW (Freewheel), SunTour (FW), and Shimano hubs
  (Cassette).
  I agree with all I've seen here.
  For me, the most practical difference has been the service after the
  sale.
  On two occasions I've had slight problems with PW gear and a quick
  phone call to PW HQ and the bearings or other parts are on their way,
  one time for free.
  Specifically, the issues were:
  *Car camped throughout southern Utah Red Rock, with my bike on the
  back of the car. Grit got into the BB bearings and killed it. PW
  replaced the BB. (for free!)
  *Needed to repurpose a hub for use on a 135 rear spacing 7 speed, to a
  132.5 5 speed. On the phone, PW told me what I needed, and sent for a
  very small fee.

  UPGRADE IDEA for you:
  For touring, and general night riding, I can highly recommend the
  Schmidt Dynohub for the front wheel. I've ridden this hub at least
  50 miles per week for the last 10 years, and it is like new.

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[RBW] Re: S24O: tent or no tent?

2010-07-19 Thread Michael_S
The problem with the hammock is that you have to have trees or some
man made structures to attach it to that are in the right position. I
find this more challenging in California, even in the Sierras as it
limits my campsite choices. I do enjoy a nice afternoon nap in one,
and have taken a lightweight net one just for that.  I use a Marmot
Eos 1 person tent that has a mesh top under the fly and find it very
versatile and easy to work with. It weighs about 3 lbs.

~Mike~

On Jul 19, 11:44 am, John Speare johnspe...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Sun, Jul 18, 2010 at 8:47 AM, Ray Shine r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
  I mostly agree with Rene. I have used a Hennessey hammock for extended
  backpacking trips.  It is very comfortable, but if the temperature drops
  below 35 degrees, it is difficult to stay warm in a hammock AND keep the
  weight down at the same time.

 Hennessey hammock has an underquilt that packs away super light and
 small. The whole set up is pricey, but it makes the hennessey a pretty
 attractive option if you're willing to spend the money.

 But even with a light pad, I've slept in the Hennessey in freezing
 weather and done ok. When it stays warm all night (over 50F), nothing
 beats a hammock in my opinion.

 Btw: some people have had issues learning a quick and easy way to
 deploy the Hennessey hammock. I camped with Alex Wetmore about a month
 ago and he's got the system dialed in (big surprise there). He solves
 the knot and hammock centering/leveling issue with a simple hardware
 upgrade:http://tinyurl.com/265kyhf

 And he solves the packing/unpacking with a quilt issue by stuffing the
 whole thing in tubes of light fabric, so he can tie off to the trees
 while the hammock is still stuffed in an intestine-looking tube. It
 literally takes him under 5 minutes to get his hammock set up.

 I only use bivvy for cold camping. If it's more than 45F or so at
 night, a bivvy just melts me. But for early-season S24O or winter
 camping where night time temps can fall below freezing, a bivvy is a
 great super light solution. When it's raining, I'll bring along the
 fly from my Hennessey:http://tinyurl.com/2fa8bvl

 Another good option for hot summer with bugs is a bug 
 tent:http://www.rei.com/product/71
 It's 1.5 lbs and about $50.

 I don't ever haul tents around anymore. Though I probably would if I
 camped at campgrounds where other people were camping close by.

 --
 John Speare
 Spokane, WA USAhttp://cyclingspokane.blogspot.com/

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[RBW] Re: S24O: tent or no tent?

2010-07-19 Thread William
I'll be on an S24O on Mt Diablo this weekend.  I have a nice bivy
sack, so could go that route.  I also thought about just bringing the
footprint poles and rainfly without the tent to make a shelter, but
then the tent without the rainfly might be better ventilation, so
since it's under 40 miles each way regardless, I'm just gonna bring
the thing and decide on setup when I'm there.

On Jul 19, 1:10 pm, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:
 The problem with the hammock is that you have to have trees or some
 man made structures to attach it to that are in the right position. I
 find this more challenging in California, even in the Sierras as it
 limits my campsite choices. I do enjoy a nice afternoon nap in one,
 and have taken a lightweight net one just for that.  I use a Marmot
 Eos 1 person tent that has a mesh top under the fly and find it very
 versatile and easy to work with. It weighs about 3 lbs.

 ~Mike~

 On Jul 19, 11:44 am, John Speare johnspe...@gmail.com wrote:



  On Sun, Jul 18, 2010 at 8:47 AM, Ray Shine r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
   I mostly agree with Rene. I have used a Hennessey hammock for extended
   backpacking trips.  It is very comfortable, but if the temperature drops
   below 35 degrees, it is difficult to stay warm in a hammock AND keep the
   weight down at the same time.

  Hennessey hammock has an underquilt that packs away super light and
  small. The whole set up is pricey, but it makes the hennessey a pretty
  attractive option if you're willing to spend the money.

  But even with a light pad, I've slept in the Hennessey in freezing
  weather and done ok. When it stays warm all night (over 50F), nothing
  beats a hammock in my opinion.

  Btw: some people have had issues learning a quick and easy way to
  deploy the Hennessey hammock. I camped with Alex Wetmore about a month
  ago and he's got the system dialed in (big surprise there). He solves
  the knot and hammock centering/leveling issue with a simple hardware
  upgrade:http://tinyurl.com/265kyhf

  And he solves the packing/unpacking with a quilt issue by stuffing the
  whole thing in tubes of light fabric, so he can tie off to the trees
  while the hammock is still stuffed in an intestine-looking tube. It
  literally takes him under 5 minutes to get his hammock set up.

  I only use bivvy for cold camping. If it's more than 45F or so at
  night, a bivvy just melts me. But for early-season S24O or winter
  camping where night time temps can fall below freezing, a bivvy is a
  great super light solution. When it's raining, I'll bring along the
  fly from my Hennessey:http://tinyurl.com/2fa8bvl

  Another good option for hot summer with bugs is a bug 
  tent:http://www.rei.com/product/71
  It's 1.5 lbs and about $50.

  I don't ever haul tents around anymore. Though I probably would if I
  camped at campgrounds where other people were camping close by.

  --
  John Speare
  Spokane, WA USAhttp://cyclingspokane.blogspot.com/

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[RBW] Re: 650b vs. Big Apples

2010-07-19 Thread colin p. cummings
I ran 559 big apples (50mm width) on my bleriot after running 650b for
over a year, and I really enjoyed the ride.  At about 50 psi the
apples are soft but quick and I really dug the all black look.

colin cummings
amarillo, tx

On Jul 19, 8:31 am, mr.trout ianet...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I am contemplating doing the big change over. Can anyone please
 explain the difference in ride qualities in something like Big Apples
 vs. a nice pair of 650b tires? Demi-balloon vs balloon? Would the 650b
 tires feel a little quicker?
 Thanks.

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[RBW] For Sale: Almost new condition - 2009 Fuji Touring Bicycle, size 58

2010-07-19 Thread eflayer
For Sale:  Almost new condition - 2009 Fuji Touring Bicycle, size 58

Specs are as listed on Fuji website:

http://2009.fujibikes.com/Specialty/Touring/Touring.aspx

Photo:

http://picasaweb.google.com/107231724174916923201/Fuji#

I have changed out just a few parts.  The original wheels were really
heavy, so the bike has brand new set of Shimano RS10 wheels with black
spokes, black mid-rims, silver braking surfaces and silver nipples.
And a  brand new pair of Vittoria Rubino Pro 700x28 folding clincher
tires.

Otherwise the bike is stock and completely ready to ride after you add
in your pedals.  This has really nicely relaxed geometry along the
lines of a Rivendell, but without the artist touch.  Good all around
city bike or good enough for club rides and probably light touring.

Over $1000 new.  $700 picked up in Berkeley

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Re: [RBW] snotty responce

2010-07-19 Thread BPustow
I think that may have already occurred.
Bill
Kentucky (The birthplace of both good and bad bourbon)
 
 
 
In a message dated 7/19/2010 2:34:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
bertin...@gmail.com writes:

and  drink 4 oz of good bourbon.  



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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-19 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
Just a dissenting voice here... you *can* use 8-speed ultegra indexing
shifters with a 7-speed IRD freewheel with perfectly satisfactory
results.

I'm sure the silver shifters are great; I have some I intend to set up
to see what they're like.

But the choice of friction versus ultegra 8-speed indexing is truly
independent of whether you choose a cassette hub or a Phil freewheel
hub for a IRD 7-speed freewheel. You can use either shifters with
either a Shimano-compatible 8-speed cassette or a Phil freewheel 7-
speed IRD freewheel setup.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

On Jul 19, 9:04 am, Ginz theg...@gmail.com wrote:
 Here's a few upgrade ideas:

 Shifters - definitely use the Silvers.  If you must index, the Shimano
 Ultegras.  If you must index, then you'll really want to get a
 Cassette hub as you will need an 8 speed cassette.  So, this is a key
 descision relative to your choice of hubs.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-19 Thread Doug Van Cleve
Howdy.

It is probably a bit anti-RBW, but I would say if you have any concerns
about freewheels then skip the freewheel Phils.  If you plan on indexing, or
think you might ever want it, skip the freewheel Phils.  PW seems like a
great company, but among reputable brands any rear hub given reasonable care
will be pretty much trouble free IMHO.

Doug

P.S.  To me, the whole dishless rear wheel thing seems like a great idea
that doesn't matter much in real life.  I am well over 200lbs., don't use
particularly stout/overbuilt rear wheels and have never had an issue that I
would attribute to dish.  Quality components and quality construction seem
to make it pretty much a non-issue...


On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 8:44 AM, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.netwrote:

 Thanks for all the replies.The PW 'Rivy' hubs probably would not
 break the bank while the PW cassette hubs would.  But I was a little
 unsure about the freewheel but it sounds like maybe that should not be
 so much of a concern.

 Anything else you would recommend upgrading??

 On Jul 17, 8:30 am, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:
  I love mine, five or 6 speeds in the rear is all I seem to need.  I
  think with the Foy you can get a dishless 7 speed wheel build that
  will be very strong and last a very long time as others have stated.
  If you are heavy or plan to load the rear the benefits of added
  strength and even spoke length are enough to sway the decision for
  me.  Yes there are other makers of nice hubs, but the Phil freewheels
  hit a sweet spot for me.
 
  Plus they look really cool
 
  Rob
 
  On Jul 16, 2:02 pm, Powderpiggy ke...@mid-columbia-coho.net wrote:
 
 
 
   I plan to purchase a Betty FoyI have been ogling the Betty Foy's
   online since as long as they have been around, and the Glorius before
   her.   This would be my first Riv (and probably only as I don't have
   huge expendable income).  This is a major purchase form me so I am
   thinking it would be worth it to make sure I don't just go cheap, but
   get it built up to something that I will love for years and years and
   not wish I had spent a little more to get an upgrated X or Y.
 
   I plan to use the Betty Foy for short tours (7-10 days likely the
   longest), bike commuting, tootling around town, and perhaps centuries
   or longer (I have a very lightweight road bike that has served this
   purpose but is not suited for touring, commuting, tootling, etc).
 
   Smy thought is that the wheelset would be the most important
   thing to upgrade (beyond the 'budget' wheelset.  Are the Phil Wood
   hubs really worth the money?  What would you do?  I am hugely
   intimidated by the cost but am intrigued with the 'Riv' Phil Wood hubs
   that work with a freewheel.   I have no experience in this area as my
   only bike has a cassette.
 
   What would you upgrade and why?


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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-19 Thread Ginz
Can the the current ultregras be switched to 7sp or will there be an
extra click?

On Jul 19, 5:57 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
wrote:
 Just a dissenting voice here... you *can* use 8-speed ultegra indexing
 shifters with a 7-speed IRD freewheel with perfectly satisfactory
 results.

 I'm sure the silver shifters are great; I have some I intend to set up
 to see what they're like.

 But the choice of friction versus ultegra 8-speed indexing is truly
 independent of whether you choose a cassette hub or a Phil freewheel
 hub for a IRD 7-speed freewheel. You can use either shifters with
 either a Shimano-compatible 8-speed cassette or a Phil freewheel 7-
 speed IRD freewheel setup.

 Yours,
 Thomas Lynn Skean

 On Jul 19, 9:04 am, Ginz theg...@gmail.com wrote:



  Here's a few upgrade ideas:

  Shifters - definitely use the Silvers.  If you must index, the Shimano
  Ultegras.  If you must index, then you'll really want to get a
  Cassette hub as you will need an 8 speed cassette.  So, this is a key
  descision relative to your choice of hubs.

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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-19 Thread rperks
you never get to the extra click if the limit screws are properly
set.  The IRD freewheel cogs have moders 9/8 speed spacing and will
work with many modern shimano indexing systems.  When the limit screws
are set, you will only get the required throw out of the shift lever.
Likewise, the silver shifters work fine on my 9spd cassete, yet I do
not live in fear of them sending my 5 spd setup into the spokes - Rob

On Jul 19, 4:09 pm, Ginz theg...@gmail.com wrote:
 Can the the current ultregras be switched to 7sp or will there be an
 extra click?

 On Jul 19, 5:57 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
 wrote:



  Just a dissenting voice here... you *can* use 8-speed ultegra indexing
  shifters with a 7-speed IRD freewheel with perfectly satisfactory
  results.

  I'm sure the silver shifters are great; I have some I intend to set up
  to see what they're like.

  But the choice of friction versus ultegra 8-speed indexing is truly
  independent of whether you choose a cassette hub or a Phil freewheel
  hub for a IRD 7-speed freewheel. You can use either shifters with
  either a Shimano-compatible 8-speed cassette or a Phil freewheel 7-
  speed IRD freewheel setup.

  Yours,
  Thomas Lynn Skean

  On Jul 19, 9:04 am, Ginz theg...@gmail.com wrote:

   Here's a few upgrade ideas:

   Shifters - definitely use the Silvers.  If you must index, the Shimano
   Ultegras.  If you must index, then you'll really want to get a
   Cassette hub as you will need an 8 speed cassette.  So, this is a key
   descision relative to your choice of hubs.- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: S24O: tent or no tent? s24o too!

2010-07-19 Thread Michael_S
must be that time of year... I'm doing an s24o this weekend too. From
Moorpark to the coast and then camping at Carpinteria State Beach. And
of course a visit to the Island Brewing Co nearby.

~Mike~

On Jul 19, 1:21 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'll be on an S24O on Mt Diablo this weekend.  I have a nice bivy
 sack, so could go that route.  I also thought about just bringing the
 footprint poles and rainfly without the tent to make a shelter, but
 then the tent without the rainfly might be better ventilation, so
 since it's under 40 miles each way regardless, I'm just gonna bring
 the thing and decide on setup when I'm there.

 On Jul 19, 1:10 pm, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:



  The problem with the hammock is that you have to have trees or some
  man made structures to attach it to that are in the right position. I
  find this more challenging in California, even in the Sierras as it
  limits my campsite choices. I do enjoy a nice afternoon nap in one,
  and have taken a lightweight net one just for that.  I use a Marmot
  Eos 1 person tent that has a mesh top under the fly and find it very
  versatile and easy to work with. It weighs about 3 lbs.

  ~Mike~

  On Jul 19, 11:44 am, John Speare johnspe...@gmail.com wrote:

   On Sun, Jul 18, 2010 at 8:47 AM, Ray Shine r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
I mostly agree with Rene. I have used a Hennessey hammock for extended
backpacking trips.  It is very comfortable, but if the temperature drops
below 35 degrees, it is difficult to stay warm in a hammock AND keep the
weight down at the same time.

   Hennessey hammock has an underquilt that packs away super light and
   small. The whole set up is pricey, but it makes the hennessey a pretty
   attractive option if you're willing to spend the money.

   But even with a light pad, I've slept in the Hennessey in freezing
   weather and done ok. When it stays warm all night (over 50F), nothing
   beats a hammock in my opinion.

   Btw: some people have had issues learning a quick and easy way to
   deploy the Hennessey hammock. I camped with Alex Wetmore about a month
   ago and he's got the system dialed in (big surprise there). He solves
   the knot and hammock centering/leveling issue with a simple hardware
   upgrade:http://tinyurl.com/265kyhf

   And he solves the packing/unpacking with a quilt issue by stuffing the
   whole thing in tubes of light fabric, so he can tie off to the trees
   while the hammock is still stuffed in an intestine-looking tube. It
   literally takes him under 5 minutes to get his hammock set up.

   I only use bivvy for cold camping. If it's more than 45F or so at
   night, a bivvy just melts me. But for early-season S24O or winter
   camping where night time temps can fall below freezing, a bivvy is a
   great super light solution. When it's raining, I'll bring along the
   fly from my Hennessey:http://tinyurl.com/2fa8bvl

   Another good option for hot summer with bugs is a bug 
   tent:http://www.rei.com/product/71
   It's 1.5 lbs and about $50.

   I don't ever haul tents around anymore. Though I probably would if I
   camped at campgrounds where other people were camping close by.

   --
   John Speare
   Spokane, WA USAhttp://cyclingspokane.blogspot.com/- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] La Ruta Loca / Rough Riders Rally reports?

2010-07-19 Thread Jim M.
Did anyone ride either of these? How about a ride report?

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[RBW] FS Phil Wood Rear Hub plus other wheels

2010-07-19 Thread Andrew
Selling a Brand New 135mm Phil Wood rear cassette 136mm hub. Never
been laced. $295. Also selling a set of barely used XT (made in Japan)
700c wheels with Mach 240 rims. They were used less than 50 miles.
$125 for the front and rear.


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[RBW] Re: Newbie here: Are Phil Wood hubs worth it.

2010-07-19 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
On my setup with an XT low-normal (Rapid Rise) derailer with an IRD 7-
spd freewheel on a PW hub, I use the appropriate limit screw to
prevent the derailer from being moved past the outer cog.
Theoretically, I guess, one could get the extra click by straining
hard on the shifter and either stretching the cable or mangling the
derailer mechanical. But in practice, the derailer and cable maintain
their structure even with vigorous use and one doesn't get the extra
click. I guess with a top-normal (traditional) derailer the limit
screw controlling the inward movement would be involved.

I can't speak to this working well on non-IRD 7-speed freewheel hubs.
And I would expect 6-speed IRD freewheel hubs (5.3mm spacing) to work
poorly.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

On Jul 19, 6:09 pm, Ginz theg...@gmail.com wrote:
 Can the the current ultregras be switched to 7sp or will there be an
 extra click?

 On Jul 19, 5:57 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
 wrote:



  Just a dissenting voice here... you *can* use 8-speed ultegra indexing
  shifters with a 7-speed IRD freewheel with perfectly satisfactory
  results.

  I'm sure the silver shifters are great; I have some I intend to set up
  to see what they're like.

  But the choice of friction versus ultegra 8-speed indexing is truly
  independent of whether you choose a cassette hub or a Phil freewheel
  hub for a IRD 7-speed freewheel. You can use either shifters with
  either a Shimano-compatible 8-speed cassette or a Phil freewheel 7-
  speed IRD freewheel setup.

  Yours,
  Thomas Lynn Skean

  On Jul 19, 9:04 am, Ginz theg...@gmail.com wrote:

   Here's a few upgrade ideas:

   Shifters - definitely use the Silvers.  If you must index, the Shimano
   Ultegras.  If you must index, then you'll really want to get a
   Cassette hub as you will need an 8 speed cassette.  So, this is a key
   descision relative to your choice of hubs.

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Re: [RBW] Re: S24O: tent or no tent?

2010-07-19 Thread Ray Shine
I have hung my Hennessey from a granite face on several occasions in the 
Sierra. 
This link shows one such hang, and also shows the underquilt.  No tarp due to 
typical summer Sierra weather.  Just bug screen.  Here's the link:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8581...@n03/sets/72157624415970717/





From: Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Mon, July 19, 2010 1:10:29 PM
Subject: [RBW] Re: S24O: tent or no tent?

The problem with the hammock is that you have to have trees or some
man made structures to attach it to that are in the right position. I
find this more challenging in California, even in the Sierras as it
limits my campsite choices. I do enjoy a nice afternoon nap in one,
and have taken a lightweight net one just for that.  I use a Marmot
Eos 1 person tent that has a mesh top under the fly and find it very
versatile and easy to work with. It weighs about 3 lbs.

~Mike~

On Jul 19, 11:44 am, John Speare johnspe...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Sun, Jul 18, 2010 at 8:47 AM, Ray Shine r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
  I mostly agree with Rene. I have used a Hennessey hammock for extended
  backpacking trips.  It is very comfortable, but if the temperature drops
  below 35 degrees, it is difficult to stay warm in a hammock AND keep the
  weight down at the same time.

 Hennessey hammock has an underquilt that packs away super light and
 small. The whole set up is pricey, but it makes the hennessey a pretty
 attractive option if you're willing to spend the money.

 But even with a light pad, I've slept in the Hennessey in freezing
 weather and done ok. When it stays warm all night (over 50F), nothing
 beats a hammock in my opinion.

 Btw: some people have had issues learning a quick and easy way to
 deploy the Hennessey hammock. I camped with Alex Wetmore about a month
 ago and he's got the system dialed in (big surprise there). He solves
 the knot and hammock centering/leveling issue with a simple hardware
 upgrade:http://tinyurl.com/265kyhf

 And he solves the packing/unpacking with a quilt issue by stuffing the
 whole thing in tubes of light fabric, so he can tie off to the trees
 while the hammock is still stuffed in an intestine-looking tube. It
 literally takes him under 5 minutes to get his hammock set up.

 I only use bivvy for cold camping. If it's more than 45F or so at
 night, a bivvy just melts me. But for early-season S24O or winter
 camping where night time temps can fall below freezing, a bivvy is a
 great super light solution. When it's raining, I'll bring along the
 fly from my Hennessey:http://tinyurl.com/2fa8bvl

 Another good option for hot summer with bugs is a bug 
tent:http://www.rei.com/product/71
 It's 1.5 lbs and about $50.

 I don't ever haul tents around anymore. Though I probably would if I
 camped at campgrounds where other people were camping close by.

 --
 John Speare
 Spokane, WA USAhttp://cyclingspokane.blogspot.com/

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[RBW] Re: S24O: tent or no tent?

2010-07-19 Thread RayO
Go with a bivy sack. OR (Outdoor Research) has one that's 2lbs and
will fit in a Carradice.
Goretex with a mosquito net at the head end.



On Jul 17, 7:27 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 So tent or no tent for an S24O? This is actually more of a +24O where
 I'm gonna do approx 60 miles the first day and maybe 100+ the second
 day, taking in SW portions of the Mt Hood National Forest. I'm
 tentatively planning on camping by a lake so I'm thinking there's
 gonna be mosquitos so I'm thinking I might want my tent... well, and
 it is OR, so rain is always a possibility... I like the idea of nixing
 the tent as I could just carry everything in my Carradice Nelson LF
 and a medium Wald basket up front. Just kind of curious what people
 think. Obviously if there's any chance of rain in the forecast I'll
 take the tent.

 Tentative plan is to do this ride over two days as opposed to one day
 which totally wrecked me last year.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335...@n00/sets/72157621778650380/

 Riv content: I'm gonna ride my Hilsen.

 --mike

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[RBW] Re: S24O: tent or no tent?

2010-07-19 Thread Mike
I'm actually at my campsite--Hoodview Campground at Timothy Lake which
has a great view of Mt Hood. The weather is beautiful and I can't wait
until it's dark so I can take in the stars. I brought my whole tent
but have not set up the rainfly.

I've made dinner and enjoyed a nice cup of Starbuck's Viva instant
coffee. This was my first big ride in weeks and I'm cooked.

It seems criminal to be posting from a camsite so I'll sign off and
read my Jack Turner book and wait for the stars. Pictures tomorrow.

--mike


On Jul 19, 7:52 pm, RayO lochm...@msn.com wrote:
 Go with a bivy sack. OR (Outdoor Research) has one that's 2lbs and
 will fit in a Carradice.
 Goretex with a mosquito net at the head end.

 On Jul 17, 7:27 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:



  So tent or no tent for an S24O? This is actually more of a +24O where
  I'm gonna do approx 60 miles the first day and maybe 100+ the second
  day, taking in SW portions of the Mt Hood National Forest. I'm
  tentatively planning on camping by a lake so I'm thinking there's
  gonna be mosquitos so I'm thinking I might want my tent... well, and
  it is OR, so rain is always a possibility... I like the idea of nixing
  the tent as I could just carry everything in my Carradice Nelson LF
  and a medium Wald basket up front. Just kind of curious what people
  think. Obviously if there's any chance of rain in the forecast I'll
  take the tent.

  Tentative plan is to do this ride over two days as opposed to one day
  which totally wrecked me last year.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335...@n00/sets/72157621778650380/

  Riv content: I'm gonna ride my Hilsen.

  --mike

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[RBW] Re: 650b vs. Big Apples

2010-07-19 Thread mr.trout
so the decision would be to either convert a current frame to 650b, or
buy a 29er for the BAs.

my understanding is that the benefits of both 650b and BAs is they're
soft but quick.

I guess what I'm wondering is if I want a Big Apple-ish smooth ride
quality, is a 650b conversion gonna give it to me, or should I go all
the way and get a 29er frame?

On Jul 19, 3:35 pm, colin p. cummings colinthehip...@gmail.com
wrote:
 I ran 559 big apples (50mm width) on my bleriot after running 650b for
 over a year, and I really enjoyed the ride.  At about 50 psi the
 apples are soft but quick and I really dug the all black look.

 colin cummings
 amarillo, tx

 On Jul 19, 8:31 am, mr.trout ianet...@yahoo.com wrote:

  I am contemplating doing the big change over. Can anyone please
  explain the difference in ride qualities in something like Big Apples
  vs. a nice pair of 650b tires? Demi-balloon vs balloon? Would the 650b
  tires feel a little quicker?
  Thanks.

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[RBW] LX front and rear derailleurs New

2010-07-19 Thread Andrew
Selling a set of LX front and rear derailleurs new, never installed.
The rear is a SGS long cage T661 and the front is a m661 clamp on top
swing for a 28.6 or 34.9. Both for $65 shipped.

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell as a beater bike?

2010-07-19 Thread RoadieRyan
The HD is a good example.  If I had not Riv'd out my Handsome Devil
I think I could have come in for a sub $1000 price but Dammit between
this group and CycloFiend (Damn You Jim!) I wanted a cool steel
bike ;-)



On Jul 18, 11:32 am, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
 what about the Handsome Devil?  that could prob be built up for sub-$1K 
 pretty easily.

 On Jul 18, 2010, at 2:17 PM, Johnny Alien wrote:

  Those are both hi-tensile very low quality steel. I can't imagine
  Rivendell doing anything like that even for a budget bike. The
  Rivendell name still needs to go on it.  Neither is anywhere near what
  Surly or VO has. Even the lower level Bridgestones back in the day
  were CrMo. I was looking for steel that might be something Grant would
  possibly use.

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell as a beater bike?

2010-07-19 Thread RoadieRyan
Or you could get one of these Sub $500 beauties, not lugged of course
but cromo, I would, however,  be suspicious of the assembly quality

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/galaxy.htm

On Jul 19, 10:02 pm, RoadieRyan rya...@hotmail.com wrote:
 The HD is a good example.  If I had not Riv'd out my Handsome Devil
 I think I could have come in for a sub $1000 price but Dammit between
 this group and CycloFiend (Damn You Jim!) I wanted a cool steel
 bike ;-)

 On Jul 18, 11:32 am, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:

  what about the Handsome Devil?  that could prob be built up for sub-$1K 
  pretty easily.

  On Jul 18, 2010, at 2:17 PM, Johnny Alien wrote:

   Those are both hi-tensile very low quality steel. I can't imagine
   Rivendell doing anything like that even for a budget bike. The
   Rivendell name still needs to go on it.  Neither is anywhere near what
   Surly or VO has. Even the lower level Bridgestones back in the day
   were CrMo. I was looking for steel that might be something Grant would
   possibly use.

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[RBW] Shimano 16T freewheel, free, but you pay postage

2010-07-19 Thread RonLau
Found my bags of freewheel, not doing SS anymore, so here it is for
those who can use it.

Free but you pay postage, best guess will cost you 3 to 5 ship to US.

Send me a email offlist please.

Ron

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