Re: [RBW] Re: questions about buying /selling a bike on this group
I buy here from folks I know because they sell the things I want to buy, usually at great prices. I like giving these people my money because my money goes to their next project which almost always benefits me in some way. I sell here to folks I know because my parts go to their next project which almost always benefits me. Their money goes to my next project which ( I like to think) sometimes benefits the group. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Trigger Shifters?
Unique is one thing, proprietary is another. Definition of /PROPRIETARY / 1*:* one that possesses http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/possess, owns, or holds exclusive right to something; /specifically/ *:* proprietor http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/proprietor 2*:* something that is used, produced, or marketed under exclusive legal right of the inventor or maker; /specifically/ *:* a drug (as a patent medicine http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/patent%20medicine) that is protected by secrecy, patent http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/patent[2], or copyright against free competition as to name, product, composition, or process of manufacture 9 speed chains are not proprietary under either meaning of the word. On 07/19/2015 11:16 PM, cyclotourist wrote: Nine speed is specially sized. Not the company, the size. Chains from five to eight speed are interchangeable. At nine you need a proprietary-sized one. Same with 10 and 11. On Sun, Jul 19, 2015 at 7:39 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote: Proprietary sized chain? You can buy 9 speed chains from many, many companies. It's as much of a standard as any other size chain. On 07/19/2015 10:34 PM, cyclotourist wrote: Used to love eight speed, but I'm finding that other than a proprietary sized chain, nine is pretty nice. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: 1UpUSA Bike Rack and Rivs
Thank you David, I'm not sure how that got switched, but found the settings under Edit, which doesn't seem particularly intuitive to me at least. I had looked for Settings under More. https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/sets/72157655639570388 The original link should take people to the exact set. Now if I could only figure out why Photos tells me pictures have been uploaded to iCloud but nothing has appeared since I installed 10.10.3 Michael On Sunday, July 19, 2015 at 10:30:29 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: Still can't see it. Your photos end with this one on June 10th: https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/18750929011/in/datetaken/ Guessing you have your uploads defaulted to private. On Sun, Jul 19, 2015 at 5:50 PM, Michael Hechmer mhec...@gmail.com javascript: wrote: I've gotten two messages telling me the link didn't work, which is puzzling because it works for me. Here's another paste and copy. https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/albums I seem to be having problems with Flicker lately, and iCloud photos hasan't worked since I upgraded to Yosemety Deacon, I didn't give them an F because they sent the rack in a timely fashion. Otherwise, your right - F for failure to respond. Michael On Saturday, July 18, 2015 at 7:06:12 PM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote: Thanks to everyone who gave me feed back on how various bike racks worked with Rivs, fenders, racks, and wide bars. In the end we bought the 1UpUSA rack and offer this initial review Bottom line - Rack is an A, customer service is gentlemen's C. First the rack. It is as solid and almost as easy to set up as they claim. Once learned it is pretty simple to live with and works well with my large Saluki and Pat's Betty. Pictures here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/sets/72157655639570388 It was easy enough to get the rack onto the car, and adding or removing the second carrier is literally a one minute job. I initially ran into trouble getting it set up to work with fenders on 650B tires and had enough frustration to almost send it back. After some experimenting however I got it rock solid. The rack comes preconfigured to work with 700C tires, without fenders or a rack. I bought a pair of the fender adapters to add to the rear supports but found two problems. The rear carrier pinched, crushed actually, the fender stays before getting tight to the fender and the front attachment didn't quite get to the tire before hitting the fender. I lowered both the front and rear bars so that they would hit the wheels sooner. (you can see in the pictures how the tire stops have been lowered. This worked well in the front but continued to bend the rear fender stays. I went ahead and pushed the rear tight. This held the fender very firmly but allowed the wheel to move across the width of the two vertical wheel holders. When I released the carrier from the wheel I found that the stays immediately bounced back into position. You can see this clearly in one of the photos. I decided to simply add toe straps around the rear wheels, which held them firmly to one side. I took the rig out for a shakedown cruise which included 5 miles of dirt road, 5 miles of bad chip and seal and 5 miles of smooth highway. Pat drove while I sat in the back seat and observed the bikes. Given the amount of weight cantilevered off the back of the car and the roughness of the roads there was plenty of movement of the cars suspension but absolutely none between the bike and carrier nor the carrier and the hitch. The second bike carrier can be removed very easily and the whole rig then folds up out of the way, much better than any Tule, Yakima, or Saris rack that I have seen. So A for easy on and off and A for solidness. A for fitting two complex bikes without any interference. Service. Before ordering I sent two emails to the company seeking clarification of their shipping policy. I never got an answer. As I was working through the fender / rack / 650B set up, I called them. I told the nice lady at the other end of the line that I was having problems with the set up, and before I send this back to you I would like to talk to someone who can speak about these issues. She promised that someone would call me but no one ever has. C for customer service. Michael -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at
[RBW] bar-end shifter pod stripped out and stuck in handlebar
Hello everyone. the title pretty much sums it up. I was working on my bikes this morning switching a few things up to get ready for a weeklong camping tour next month and when I went to take out the FD side shifter pod (Shimano), the 6mm allen bolt was so tight that I stripped it out. Now the shifter pod is stuck in the the noodle bar and not one of my good allen keys will get a grip inside. Has this happened to anyone else? Are there any solutions? thanks Jason -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] bar-end shifter pod stripped out and stuck in handlebar
Jason, same thing happened to me, I was able to twist out the pod with a pair of Channelock pliers, pod was unuseable. Steve On Monday, July 20, 2015, jandrews_nyc jasonaschwa...@gmail.com wrote: Hello everyone. the title pretty much sums it up. I was working on my bikes this morning switching a few things up to get ready for a weeklong camping tour next month and when I went to take out the FD side shifter pod (Shimano), the 6mm allen bolt was so tight that I stripped it out. Now the shifter pod is stuck in the the noodle bar and not one of my good allen keys will get a grip inside. Has this happened to anyone else? Are there any solutions? thanks Jason -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','rbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com'); . To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com');. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- Steven Sweedler Plymouth, New Hampshire -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] bar-end shifter pod stripped out and stuck in handlebar
Just on the far remote off-chance: to remove, you turn the bolt clockwise. Any chance you were turning it the wrong way? http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bar-end-shifter-service On 07/20/2015 07:50 AM, Steven Sweedler wrote: Jason, same thing happened to me, I was able to twist out the pod with a pair of Channelock pliers, pod was unuseable. Steve On Monday, July 20, 2015, jandrews_nyc jasonaschwa...@gmail.com mailto:jasonaschwa...@gmail.com wrote: Hello everyone. the title pretty much sums it up. I was working on my bikes this morning switching a few things up to get ready for a weeklong camping tour next month and when I went to take out the FD side shifter pod (Shimano), the 6mm allen bolt was so tight that I stripped it out. Now the shifter pod is stuck in the the noodle bar and not one of my good allen keys will get a grip inside. Has this happened to anyone else? Are there any solutions? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] bar-end shifter pod stripped out and stuck in handlebar
A left hand thread tap tool aka easy out can do it. There's good ones and bad ones. I've got some that aren't the greatest, you're welcome to try them out. Or maybe slathering some epoxy on an Allen wrench for a one last try to loosen with the tool before completely mangling it via easy out? -Kai in Brooklyn -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] bar-end shifter pod stripped out and stuck in handlebar
Thank you I should mentioned that I'm aware of the reverse threading on that shifter pod. It was just very tight and as I tried to loosen the bolt clockwise, my 6mm allen key (bondus) stripped the bolt head out completely. The epoxy idea is interesting? Also thinking about finding a 7mm key to hammer in and try that. At this point, I think the pod is toast. I'm more concerned about saving the bars. Jason On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 8:12:05 AM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote: Just on the far remote off-chance: to remove, you turn the bolt clockwise. Any chance you were turning it the wrong way? http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bar-end-shifter-service On 07/20/2015 07:50 AM, Steven Sweedler wrote: Jason, same thing happened to me, I was able to twist out the pod with a pair of Channelock pliers, pod was unuseable. Steve On Monday, July 20, 2015, jandrews_nyc jasonas...@gmail.com javascript: wrote: Hello everyone. the title pretty much sums it up. I was working on my bikes this morning switching a few things up to get ready for a weeklong camping tour next month and when I went to take out the FD side shifter pod (Shimano), the 6mm allen bolt was so tight that I stripped it out. Now the shifter pod is stuck in the the noodle bar and not one of my good allen keys will get a grip inside. Has this happened to anyone else? Are there any solutions? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] bar-end shifter pod stripped out and stuck in handlebar
Jason- If you have a standard hex set, try the 1/4 inch first (before the 7 mm). 1/4 inch is 6.35 mm. The fixing bolt is stripped, but the whole pod isn't toast. I did this to an old pair of Suntour Accushift bar-ends, and was able to replace the bolt. The standard Shimano bar-end shifter bolt ($6 online) fits any Shimano or Silver bar-end (as well as the old Accushift). Best of luck, Tim On Mon, Jul 20, 2015 at 7:21 AM, jandrews_nyc jasonaschwa...@gmail.com wrote: Thank you I should mentioned that I'm aware of the reverse threading on that shifter pod. It was just very tight and as I tried to loosen the bolt clockwise, my 6mm allen key (bondus) stripped the bolt head out completely. The epoxy idea is interesting? Also thinking about finding a 7mm key to hammer in and try that. At this point, I think the pod is toast. I'm more concerned about saving the bars. Jason On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 8:12:05 AM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote: Just on the far remote off-chance: to remove, you turn the bolt clockwise. Any chance you were turning it the wrong way? http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bar-end-shifter-service On 07/20/2015 07:50 AM, Steven Sweedler wrote: Jason, same thing happened to me, I was able to twist out the pod with a pair of Channelock pliers, pod was unuseable. Steve On Monday, July 20, 2015, jandrews_nyc jasonas...@gmail.com wrote: Hello everyone. the title pretty much sums it up. I was working on my bikes this morning switching a few things up to get ready for a weeklong camping tour next month and when I went to take out the FD side shifter pod (Shimano), the 6mm allen bolt was so tight that I stripped it out. Now the shifter pod is stuck in the the noodle bar and not one of my good allen keys will get a grip inside. Has this happened to anyone else? Are there any solutions? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Bosco shifter placement
I also went with having thumb shifters on the down sloping part of the bar and used inverse brake levers on my old school Bosco like bars. Works and looks great. The only tricky part was wrapping the handle bar tape around the shifter. JohnS On Sunday, July 19, 2015 at 9:37:49 PM UTC-4, DS wrote: For those of you riding bosco bars, where do you place the shifters? Thinking about a cockpit swap on my Sam, and wondering if bar ends or thumbies are the way to go, and if thumbies where to put them? Consequently, if anyone has a bosco cockpit (all or whole) they're interested in selling, let me know ;) I need the bars (looking at the 52), stem (don't know length, I run 8cm on my albastaches), brake levers. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] bar-end shifter pod stripped out and stuck in handlebar
thanks Tim On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 8:48:47 AM UTC-4, Tim Gavin wrote: Jason- If you have a standard hex set, try the 1/4 inch first (before the 7 mm). 1/4 inch is 6.35 mm. The fixing bolt is stripped, but the whole pod isn't toast. I did this to an old pair of Suntour Accushift bar-ends, and was able to replace the bolt. The standard Shimano bar-end shifter bolt ($6 online) fits any Shimano or Silver bar-end (as well as the old Accushift). Best of luck, Tim On Mon, Jul 20, 2015 at 7:21 AM, jandrews_nyc jasonas...@gmail.com javascript: wrote: Thank you I should mentioned that I'm aware of the reverse threading on that shifter pod. It was just very tight and as I tried to loosen the bolt clockwise, my 6mm allen key (bondus) stripped the bolt head out completely. The epoxy idea is interesting? Also thinking about finding a 7mm key to hammer in and try that. At this point, I think the pod is toast. I'm more concerned about saving the bars. Jason On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 8:12:05 AM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote: Just on the far remote off-chance: to remove, you turn the bolt clockwise. Any chance you were turning it the wrong way? http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bar-end-shifter-service On 07/20/2015 07:50 AM, Steven Sweedler wrote: Jason, same thing happened to me, I was able to twist out the pod with a pair of Channelock pliers, pod was unuseable. Steve On Monday, July 20, 2015, jandrews_nyc jasonas...@gmail.com wrote: Hello everyone. the title pretty much sums it up. I was working on my bikes this morning switching a few things up to get ready for a weeklong camping tour next month and when I went to take out the FD side shifter pod (Shimano), the 6mm allen bolt was so tight that I stripped it out. Now the shifter pod is stuck in the the noodle bar and not one of my good allen keys will get a grip inside. Has this happened to anyone else? Are there any solutions? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Cheviot bridge placement aka: adventures in fender installation
you did great, and it looks great. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/aPC310005_zps1ce74da2.jpg I had something similar with my daughter's bike, though not quite that extreme, used a long bolt and a stack of leather washers. On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 6:41:56 AM UTC-5, jeffrey kane wrote: I’m wondering if anyone else has encountered the same and whether there's an explaination out there somewhere for this oddness? Here's some pic's of my spacing hacks: -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Cheviot bridge placement aka: adventures in fender installation
Found this on the Cheviot brochure. I'm not a fender expert, so I'm a bit confused. I've always used spacers for fenders with vertical drilled bridges. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Cheviot bridge placement aka: adventures in fender installation
I've found that I prefer the chain stay mounting to be a bit forward of perfect alignment to ease removing and replacement of the rear wheel. I use a spacer there, but not long enough to bring the fender to an equidistant position with the seat stay and strut placements. It's not really noticeable unless someone is looking for it. To solve your triangulation issue, install a rack that attaches to the fenders, like the VO Constructeur rear rack, for instance. Or, you could simply add a strut and use the rack eyelets. The rear rack, with two mounting points to the fender, would be stiffer. I don't ride with fenders in the dry part of the summer (when I mostly do short, intense, conditioning rides). but I leave the rack mounted to the fenders when I remove them. It takes me all of five minutes to reattach the fenders when I need them or the rack. On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 7:41:56 AM UTC-4, jeffrey kane wrote: We've been using my wife’s new Cheviot (aka: the Mother’s Day Chev) almost non-stop around town since the start of summer … without fenders. I figured I’d get to them once we settled into the season a bit. In the end I went with a pair of Velo Orange Snakeskin 650b/50's to clear the Hetres and while they don't offer a particularly large area of coverage, they are positively handsome! V/O certainly has their fender line dialed in. As others have mentioned here, their hardware is cleanly refined … even the packaging is first rate. What has thrown me for a loop, however, is the uneven spacing of the Chev's seat and chain stay bridges. Normally on a Riv I'd have secured the rear fender at the the seat-stay bridge and just dealt with the horizontal drilling for caliper brakes (my favorite fix is to use a fender daruma as a spacer). But in the case of the of the mixte, the brake bridge is simply too close to the chain-stay bridge to offer much rigidity in terms of triangulation. And anyway, Riv spec’d another bridge, drilled vertically on the seat-stay. So it didn't seem odd to me to attach the fender to the unused seat-stay bridge, right? Except that bridge is over 6mm too high! And just to complicate matters, the chain stay bridge is almost 2.5 cm too far forward! Clearly these bridges were placed without fender alignment in mind (despite the proper drilling for such). I don’t understand the point since you can’t get around the brake bridge spacing either way … it’s not like it’s usable clearance for bigger tires. I’m wondering if anyone else has encountered the same and whether there's an explaination out there somewhere for this oddness? Here's some pic's of my spacing hacks: -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Cheviot bridge placement aka: adventures in fender installation
Hi Jeff, I don't have an answer to your question... but nice fender line! Looks great. shoji On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 7:41:56 AM UTC-4, jeffrey kane wrote: We've been using my wife’s new Cheviot (aka: the Mother’s Day Chev) almost non-stop around town since the start of summer … without fenders. I figured I’d get to them once we settled into the season a bit. In the end I went with a pair of Velo Orange Snakeskin 650b/50's to clear the Hetres and while they don't offer a particularly large area of coverage, they are positively handsome! V/O certainly has their fender line dialed in. As others have mentioned here, their hardware is cleanly refined … even the packaging is first rate. What has thrown me for a loop, however, is the uneven spacing of the Chev's seat and chain stay bridges. Normally on a Riv I'd have secured the rear fender at the the seat-stay bridge and just dealt with the horizontal drilling for caliper brakes (my favorite fix is to use a fender daruma as a spacer). But in the case of the of the mixte, the brake bridge is simply too close to the chain-stay bridge to offer much rigidity in terms of triangulation. And anyway, Riv spec’d another bridge, drilled vertically on the seat-stay. So it didn't seem odd to me to attach the fender to the unused seat-stay bridge, right? Except that bridge is over 6mm too high! And just to complicate matters, the chain stay bridge is almost 2.5 cm too far forward! Clearly these bridges were placed without fender alignment in mind (despite the proper drilling for such). I don’t understand the point since you can’t get around the brake bridge spacing either way … it’s not like it’s usable clearance for bigger tires. I’m wondering if anyone else has encountered the same and whether there's an explaination out there somewhere for this oddness? Here's some pic's of my spacing hacks: -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Rivelo Visit and a few pics
Dropped by Rivelo to check out the shop while I'm in Portland. Really nice. The type of place where the more you look, the more you see, if you know what I mean. Little cool details. A few words and some photos here: http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2015/07/rivelo-visit.html A great selection of bags. I walked off with a shirt I'd been eyeing for awhile online but had the chance to try it on there. Best, Addison Wilhite, M.A. Academy of Arts, Careers and Technology http://www.washoeschools.net/aact *“Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success”* Educator: Professional Portfolio http://addisonwilhite.blogspot.com/ Blogger: Reno Rambler http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/ Bicycle Advocate: Regional Transportation Commission, Bicycle Pedestrian Advisory Committee http://www.rtcwashoe.com/public-transportation-22-124.html -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Cheviot bridge placement aka: adventures in fender installation
They threw you a problem, and you solved it! You did a great job no I am going to have to contemplate metal fenders for my Sam! Edwin On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 6:41:56 AM UTC-5, jeffrey kane wrote: We've been using my wife’s new Cheviot (aka: the Mother’s Day Chev) almost non-stop around town since the start of summer … without fenders. I figured I’d get to them once we settled into the season a bit. In the end I went with a pair of Velo Orange Snakeskin 650b/50's to clear the Hetres and while they don't offer a particularly large area of coverage, they are positively handsome! V/O certainly has their fender line dialed in. As others have mentioned here, their hardware is cleanly refined … even the packaging is first rate. What has thrown me for a loop, however, is the uneven spacing of the Chev's seat and chain stay bridges. Normally on a Riv I'd have secured the rear fender at the the seat-stay bridge and just dealt with the horizontal drilling for caliper brakes (my favorite fix is to use a fender daruma as a spacer). But in the case of the of the mixte, the brake bridge is simply too close to the chain-stay bridge to offer much rigidity in terms of triangulation. And anyway, Riv spec’d another bridge, drilled vertically on the seat-stay. So it didn't seem odd to me to attach the fender to the unused seat-stay bridge, right? Except that bridge is over 6mm too high! And just to complicate matters, the chain stay bridge is almost 2.5 cm too far forward! Clearly these bridges were placed without fender alignment in mind (despite the proper drilling for such). I don’t understand the point since you can’t get around the brake bridge spacing either way … it’s not like it’s usable clearance for bigger tires. I’m wondering if anyone else has encountered the same and whether there's an explaination out there somewhere for this oddness? Here's some pic's of my spacing hacks: -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Cheviot bridge placement aka: adventures in fender installation
Found this on the Cheviot brochure. I'm not a fender expert, so I'm a bit confused. I've always used spacers for fenders with vertical drilled bridges. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] bar-end shifter pod stripped out and stuck in handlebar
Sometimes an fractional size instead of a metric size will give you a better fit. If you or anyone else needs a replacement pod I may have an extra. John Wilson Greensburg, PA USA On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 8:21:17 AM UTC-4, jandrews_nyc wrote: Thank you I should mentioned that I'm aware of the reverse threading on that shifter pod. It was just very tight and as I tried to loosen the bolt clockwise, my 6mm allen key (bondus) stripped the bolt head out completely. The epoxy idea is interesting? Also thinking about finding a 7mm key to hammer in and try that. At this point, I think the pod is toast. I'm more concerned about saving the bars. Jason On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 8:12:05 AM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote: Just on the far remote off-chance: to remove, you turn the bolt clockwise. Any chance you were turning it the wrong way? http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bar-end-shifter-service On 07/20/2015 07:50 AM, Steven Sweedler wrote: Jason, same thing happened to me, I was able to twist out the pod with a pair of Channelock pliers, pod was unuseable. Steve On Monday, July 20, 2015, jandrews_nyc jasonas...@gmail.com wrote: Hello everyone. the title pretty much sums it up. I was working on my bikes this morning switching a few things up to get ready for a weeklong camping tour next month and when I went to take out the FD side shifter pod (Shimano), the 6mm allen bolt was so tight that I stripped it out. Now the shifter pod is stuck in the the noodle bar and not one of my good allen keys will get a grip inside. Has this happened to anyone else? Are there any solutions? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Babyshoe Pass EL's Tubeless on Pacenti SL23's
It wasn't clear to me at which step you put the sealant in. After the tubeless tire stem, or before? On Sat, Jul 18, 2015 at 12:40 PM, Doug Williams salg...@minbaritm.com wrote: I converted my Babyshoe Pass EL's on Pacenti SL23 rims to tubeless yesterday. So my 58cm 650B Homer is running SMOOTH. Everything is great so far, I'll followup with a long term report after some more miles. Some preliminary observations: From what I had read, I was expecting a battle; but seating the tires was actually quite easy. I didn't want water inside the tires, so I used no soapy water or lubricant of any kind. I had an injector for the Orange Seal sealant, so I added the sealant AFTER the tires were seated. In short, the tires were seated while completely dry. Here is how I did it. First, I seated the tires in the normal manner with an inner tube. Then I broke ONE bead and removed the inner tube. I installed the tubeless tire stem. Then I worked my way around the rim and pulled the loose bead outward on the rim to seat it as best as I could. It wasn't fully seated of course, but somewhat close. Then I just pumped the tire up and seated it, didn't even remove the valve core (as some recommend for faster air flow) because my pump fit the valve stem better with the core in. It was actually quite easy to seat the tire with my floor pump! Full disclosure, I have the high volume Lezyne Dirt Floor Drive Pump, but really I think any floor pump would have worked. My daughter seated one of the tires and I seated the other. Easy both times. I think the key is to have one bead completely on and the second bead pulled in close like I did. So far I'm quite satisfied with tubeless. My goal was to avoid having to use a heavy commuter tire because I really love the ride of the Babyshoe Pass EL's. I see no weight savings with tubeless and I don't care. If there is a difference in performance I can't tell. I was already using Schwalbe SV14 light (130 gram) inner tubes and the ride was sweet (when I didn't flat). I'm interested only in flat protection because with all the goat heads and other thorns around here flats were annoyingly common with tubes. I probably used more Orange Seal than necessary, but we will see. I'll probably carry two inner tubes and a patch kit as emergency backup, so again...no weight savings. But if I don't get flats, it will be worth it. I use my bike to commute to work. It is only 5 miles each direction, but I get up early and extend my morning commute somewhere fun to get a 90 minute or so morning ride. I don't want to be fixing a flat out in the boonies at dawn before work. Been there, done that! So hopefully tubeless will be the answer for me...time will tell. Doug -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Babyshoe Pass EL's Tubeless on Pacenti SL23's
I seated both beads using a n inner tube. Then I broke one bead to remove the inner tube and install the tubeless valve. On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 11:22:22 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote: It wasn't clear to me at which step you put the sealant in. After the tubeless tire stem, or before? On Sat, Jul 18, 2015 at 12:40 PM, Doug Williams sal...@minbaritm.com javascript: wrote: I converted my Babyshoe Pass EL's on Pacenti SL23 rims to tubeless yesterday. So my 58cm 650B Homer is running SMOOTH. Everything is great so far, I'll followup with a long term report after some more miles. Some preliminary observations: From what I had read, I was expecting a battle; but seating the tires was actually quite easy. I didn't want water inside the tires, so I used no soapy water or lubricant of any kind. I had an injector for the Orange Seal sealant, so I added the sealant AFTER the tires were seated. In short, the tires were seated while completely dry. Here is how I did it. First, I seated the tires in the normal manner with an inner tube. Then I broke ONE bead and removed the inner tube. I installed the tubeless tire stem. Then I worked my way around the rim and pulled the loose bead outward on the rim to seat it as best as I could. It wasn't fully seated of course, but somewhat close. Then I just pumped the tire up and seated it, didn't even remove the valve core (as some recommend for faster air flow) because my pump fit the valve stem better with the core in. It was actually quite easy to seat the tire with my floor pump! Full disclosure, I have the high volume Lezyne Dirt Floor Drive Pump, but really I think any floor pump would have worked. My daughter seated one of the tires and I seated the other. Easy both times. I think the key is to have one bead completely on and the second bead pulled in close like I did. So far I'm quite satisfied with tubeless. My goal was to avoid having to use a heavy commuter tire because I really love the ride of the Babyshoe Pass EL's. I see no weight savings with tubeless and I don't care. If there is a difference in performance I can't tell. I was already using Schwalbe SV14 light (130 gram) inner tubes and the ride was sweet (when I didn't flat). I'm interested only in flat protection because with all the goat heads and other thorns around here flats were annoyingly common with tubes. I probably used more Orange Seal than necessary, but we will see. I'll probably carry two inner tubes and a patch kit as emergency backup, so again...no weight savings. But if I don't get flats, it will be worth it. I use my bike to commute to work. It is only 5 miles each direction, but I get up early and extend my morning commute somewhere fun to get a 90 minute or so morning ride. I don't want to be fixing a flat out in the boonies at dawn before work. Been there, done that! So hopefully tubeless will be the answer for me...time will tell. Doug -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Babyshoe Pass EL's Tubeless on Pacenti SL23's
It is still not clear to me at what point you put the sealant (Stan's, Orange Seal, or similar) in the tire. You mention installing the tubeless valve stem, but you don't mention adding sealant. Or are you saying you didn't use any sealant? On Mon, Jul 20, 2015 at 1:42 PM, Doug Williams salg...@minbaritm.com wrote: I seated both beads using a n inner tube. Then I broke one bead to remove the inner tube and install the tubeless valve. On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 11:22:22 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote: It wasn't clear to me at which step you put the sealant in. After the tubeless tire stem, or before? On Sat, Jul 18, 2015 at 12:40 PM, Doug Williams sal...@minbaritm.com wrote: I converted my Babyshoe Pass EL's on Pacenti SL23 rims to tubeless yesterday. So my 58cm 650B Homer is running SMOOTH. Everything is great so far, I'll followup with a long term report after some more miles. Some preliminary observations: From what I had read, I was expecting a battle; but seating the tires was actually quite easy. I didn't want water inside the tires, so I used no soapy water or lubricant of any kind. I had an injector for the Orange Seal sealant, so I added the sealant AFTER the tires were seated. In short, the tires were seated while completely dry. Here is how I did it. First, I seated the tires in the normal manner with an inner tube. Then I broke ONE bead and removed the inner tube. I installed the tubeless tire stem. Then I worked my way around the rim and pulled the loose bead outward on the rim to seat it as best as I could. It wasn't fully seated of course, but somewhat close. Then I just pumped the tire up and seated it, didn't even remove the valve core (as some recommend for faster air flow) because my pump fit the valve stem better with the core in. It was actually quite easy to seat the tire with my floor pump! Full disclosure, I have the high volume Lezyne Dirt Floor Drive Pump, but really I think any floor pump would have worked. My daughter seated one of the tires and I seated the other. Easy both times. I think the key is to have one bead completely on and the second bead pulled in close like I did. So far I'm quite satisfied with tubeless. My goal was to avoid having to use a heavy commuter tire because I really love the ride of the Babyshoe Pass EL's. I see no weight savings with tubeless and I don't care. If there is a difference in performance I can't tell. I was already using Schwalbe SV14 light (130 gram) inner tubes and the ride was sweet (when I didn't flat). I'm interested only in flat protection because with all the goat heads and other thorns around here flats were annoyingly common with tubes. I probably used more Orange Seal than necessary, but we will see. I'll probably carry two inner tubes and a patch kit as emergency backup, so again...no weight savings. But if I don't get flats, it will be worth it. I use my bike to commute to work. It is only 5 miles each direction, but I get up early and extend my morning commute somewhere fun to get a 90 minute or so morning ride. I don't want to be fixing a flat out in the boonies at dawn before work. Been there, done that! So hopefully tubeless will be the answer for me...time will tell. Doug -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Babyshoe Pass EL's Tubeless on Pacenti SL23's
True Joe, My SL-23 rims are tubeless ready. They have a tighter fit than other rims. So I don't recommend going tubeless unless your rims are made for tubeless. On Jul 20, 2015 11:26 AM, Joe Broach joebro...@gmail.com wrote: Proceed with caution, Shoji. I don't think synergies are tubeless ready (i.e. not designed to keep a tire on without a tube). Some people have had success just putting the sealant in the tube, though. Best, joe broach pdx or Caveat lector. Sent from a phone. On Jul 20, 2015 9:39 AM, Shoji Takahashi shoji.takaha...@gmail.com wrote: Hi Doug, I'm considering tubeless set up for my Loup Loup Pass EL (650B x 38) on Velocity Synergies. I've had a number of rear-tire flats the past two weeks from glass bits. Puts a damper on the nice ride. For the conversion: did you use the tubeless valves and stan's tape? And then add the Orange Seal via injector? Is that really all there is to it? Thanks for your help/advice, Shoji On Saturday, July 18, 2015 at 1:40:47 PM UTC-4, Doug Williams wrote: I converted my Babyshoe Pass EL's on Pacenti SL23 rims to tubeless yesterday. So my 58cm 650B Homer is running SMOOTH. Everything is great so far, I'll followup with a long term report after some more miles. Some preliminary observations: From what I had read, I was expecting a battle; but seating the tires was actually quite easy. I didn't want water inside the tires, so I used no soapy water or lubricant of any kind. I had an injector for the Orange Seal sealant, so I added the sealant AFTER the tires were seated. In short, the tires were seated while completely dry. Here is how I did it. First, I seated the tires in the normal manner with an inner tube. Then I broke ONE bead and removed the inner tube. I installed the tubeless tire stem. Then I worked my way around the rim and pulled the loose bead outward on the rim to seat it as best as I could. It wasn't fully seated of course, but somewhat close. Then I just pumped the tire up and seated it, didn't even remove the valve core (as some recommend for faster air flow) because my pump fit the valve stem better with the core in. It was actually quite easy to seat the tire with my floor pump! Full disclosure, I have the high volume Lezyne Dirt Floor Drive Pump, but really I think any floor pump would have worked. My daughter seated one of the tires and I seated the other. Easy both times. I think the key is to have one bead completely on and the second bead pulled in close like I did. So far I'm quite satisfied with tubeless. My goal was to avoid having to use a heavy commuter tire because I really love the ride of the Babyshoe Pass EL's. I see no weight savings with tubeless and I don't care. If there is a difference in performance I can't tell. I was already using Schwalbe SV14 light (130 gram) inner tubes and the ride was sweet (when I didn't flat). I'm interested only in flat protection because with all the goat heads and other thorns around here flats were annoyingly common with tubes. I probably used more Orange Seal than necessary, but we will see. I'll probably carry two inner tubes and a patch kit as emergency backup, so again...no weight savings. But if I don't get flats, it will be worth it. I use my bike to commute to work. It is only 5 miles each direction, but I get up early and extend my morning commute somewhere fun to get a 90 minute or so morning ride. I don't want to be fixing a flat out in the boonies at dawn before work. Been there, done that! So hopefully tubeless will be the answer for me...time will tell. Doug -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/q6VHUBT2_pY/unsubscribe . To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more
Re: [RBW] Re: Babyshoe Pass EL's Tubeless on Pacenti SL23's
Thanks, Joe. I'm thinking of putting Stans or Orange into the tube. I've got Schwalbe tubes, and I think they have a removable core. Shouldn't be too hard to put in some sealant. Downsides of that? Some added weight? :) shoji On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 2:26:07 PM UTC-4, joe b. wrote: Proceed with caution, Shoji. I don't think synergies are tubeless ready (i.e. not designed to keep a tire on without a tube). Some people have had success just putting the sealant in the tube, though. Best, joe broach pdx or Caveat lector. Sent from a phone. On Jul 20, 2015 9:39 AM, Shoji Takahashi shoji.t...@gmail.com javascript: wrote: Hi Doug, I'm considering tubeless set up for my Loup Loup Pass EL (650B x 38) on Velocity Synergies. I've had a number of rear-tire flats the past two weeks from glass bits. Puts a damper on the nice ride. For the conversion: did you use the tubeless valves and stan's tape? And then add the Orange Seal via injector? Is that really all there is to it? Thanks for your help/advice, Shoji On Saturday, July 18, 2015 at 1:40:47 PM UTC-4, Doug Williams wrote: I converted my Babyshoe Pass EL's on Pacenti SL23 rims to tubeless yesterday. So my 58cm 650B Homer is running SMOOTH. Everything is great so far, I'll followup with a long term report after some more miles. Some preliminary observations: From what I had read, I was expecting a battle; but seating the tires was actually quite easy. I didn't want water inside the tires, so I used no soapy water or lubricant of any kind. I had an injector for the Orange Seal sealant, so I added the sealant AFTER the tires were seated. In short, the tires were seated while completely dry. Here is how I did it. First, I seated the tires in the normal manner with an inner tube. Then I broke ONE bead and removed the inner tube. I installed the tubeless tire stem. Then I worked my way around the rim and pulled the loose bead outward on the rim to seat it as best as I could. It wasn't fully seated of course, but somewhat close. Then I just pumped the tire up and seated it, didn't even remove the valve core (as some recommend for faster air flow) because my pump fit the valve stem better with the core in. It was actually quite easy to seat the tire with my floor pump! Full disclosure, I have the high volume Lezyne Dirt Floor Drive Pump, but really I think any floor pump would have worked. My daughter seated one of the tires and I seated the other. Easy both times. I think the key is to have one bead completely on and the second bead pulled in close like I did. So far I'm quite satisfied with tubeless. My goal was to avoid having to use a heavy commuter tire because I really love the ride of the Babyshoe Pass EL's. I see no weight savings with tubeless and I don't care. If there is a difference in performance I can't tell. I was already using Schwalbe SV14 light (130 gram) inner tubes and the ride was sweet (when I didn't flat). I'm interested only in flat protection because with all the goat heads and other thorns around here flats were annoyingly common with tubes. I probably used more Orange Seal than necessary, but we will see. I'll probably carry two inner tubes and a patch kit as emergency backup, so again...no weight savings. But if I don't get flats, it will be worth it. I use my bike to commute to work. It is only 5 miles each direction, but I get up early and extend my morning commute somewhere fun to get a 90 minute or so morning ride. I don't want to be fixing a flat out in the boonies at dawn before work. Been there, done that! So hopefully tubeless will be the answer for me...time will tell. Doug -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Babyshoe Pass EL's Tubeless on Pacenti SL23's
Proceed with caution, Shoji. I don't think synergies are tubeless ready (i.e. not designed to keep a tire on without a tube). Some people have had success just putting the sealant in the tube, though. Best, joe broach pdx or Caveat lector. Sent from a phone. On Jul 20, 2015 9:39 AM, Shoji Takahashi shoji.takaha...@gmail.com wrote: Hi Doug, I'm considering tubeless set up for my Loup Loup Pass EL (650B x 38) on Velocity Synergies. I've had a number of rear-tire flats the past two weeks from glass bits. Puts a damper on the nice ride. For the conversion: did you use the tubeless valves and stan's tape? And then add the Orange Seal via injector? Is that really all there is to it? Thanks for your help/advice, Shoji On Saturday, July 18, 2015 at 1:40:47 PM UTC-4, Doug Williams wrote: I converted my Babyshoe Pass EL's on Pacenti SL23 rims to tubeless yesterday. So my 58cm 650B Homer is running SMOOTH. Everything is great so far, I'll followup with a long term report after some more miles. Some preliminary observations: From what I had read, I was expecting a battle; but seating the tires was actually quite easy. I didn't want water inside the tires, so I used no soapy water or lubricant of any kind. I had an injector for the Orange Seal sealant, so I added the sealant AFTER the tires were seated. In short, the tires were seated while completely dry. Here is how I did it. First, I seated the tires in the normal manner with an inner tube. Then I broke ONE bead and removed the inner tube. I installed the tubeless tire stem. Then I worked my way around the rim and pulled the loose bead outward on the rim to seat it as best as I could. It wasn't fully seated of course, but somewhat close. Then I just pumped the tire up and seated it, didn't even remove the valve core (as some recommend for faster air flow) because my pump fit the valve stem better with the core in. It was actually quite easy to seat the tire with my floor pump! Full disclosure, I have the high volume Lezyne Dirt Floor Drive Pump, but really I think any floor pump would have worked. My daughter seated one of the tires and I seated the other. Easy both times. I think the key is to have one bead completely on and the second bead pulled in close like I did. So far I'm quite satisfied with tubeless. My goal was to avoid having to use a heavy commuter tire because I really love the ride of the Babyshoe Pass EL's. I see no weight savings with tubeless and I don't care. If there is a difference in performance I can't tell. I was already using Schwalbe SV14 light (130 gram) inner tubes and the ride was sweet (when I didn't flat). I'm interested only in flat protection because with all the goat heads and other thorns around here flats were annoyingly common with tubes. I probably used more Orange Seal than necessary, but we will see. I'll probably carry two inner tubes and a patch kit as emergency backup, so again...no weight savings. But if I don't get flats, it will be worth it. I use my bike to commute to work. It is only 5 miles each direction, but I get up early and extend my morning commute somewhere fun to get a 90 minute or so morning ride. I don't want to be fixing a flat out in the boonies at dawn before work. Been there, done that! So hopefully tubeless will be the answer for me...time will tell. Doug -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Babyshoe Pass EL's Tubeless on Pacenti SL23's
Hi Doug, I'm considering tubeless set up for my Loup Loup Pass EL (650B x 38) on Velocity Synergies. I've had a number of rear-tire flats the past two weeks from glass bits. Puts a damper on the nice ride. For the conversion: did you use the tubeless valves and stan's tape? And then add the Orange Seal via injector? Is that really all there is to it? Thanks for your help/advice, Shoji On Saturday, July 18, 2015 at 1:40:47 PM UTC-4, Doug Williams wrote: I converted my Babyshoe Pass EL's on Pacenti SL23 rims to tubeless yesterday. So my 58cm 650B Homer is running SMOOTH. Everything is great so far, I'll followup with a long term report after some more miles. Some preliminary observations: From what I had read, I was expecting a battle; but seating the tires was actually quite easy. I didn't want water inside the tires, so I used no soapy water or lubricant of any kind. I had an injector for the Orange Seal sealant, so I added the sealant AFTER the tires were seated. In short, the tires were seated while completely dry. Here is how I did it. First, I seated the tires in the normal manner with an inner tube. Then I broke ONE bead and removed the inner tube. I installed the tubeless tire stem. Then I worked my way around the rim and pulled the loose bead outward on the rim to seat it as best as I could. It wasn't fully seated of course, but somewhat close. Then I just pumped the tire up and seated it, didn't even remove the valve core (as some recommend for faster air flow) because my pump fit the valve stem better with the core in. It was actually quite easy to seat the tire with my floor pump! Full disclosure, I have the high volume Lezyne Dirt Floor Drive Pump, but really I think any floor pump would have worked. My daughter seated one of the tires and I seated the other. Easy both times. I think the key is to have one bead completely on and the second bead pulled in close like I did. So far I'm quite satisfied with tubeless. My goal was to avoid having to use a heavy commuter tire because I really love the ride of the Babyshoe Pass EL's. I see no weight savings with tubeless and I don't care. If there is a difference in performance I can't tell. I was already using Schwalbe SV14 light (130 gram) inner tubes and the ride was sweet (when I didn't flat). I'm interested only in flat protection because with all the goat heads and other thorns around here flats were annoyingly common with tubes. I probably used more Orange Seal than necessary, but we will see. I'll probably carry two inner tubes and a patch kit as emergency backup, so again...no weight savings. But if I don't get flats, it will be worth it. I use my bike to commute to work. It is only 5 miles each direction, but I get up early and extend my morning commute somewhere fun to get a 90 minute or so morning ride. I don't want to be fixing a flat out in the boonies at dawn before work. Been there, done that! So hopefully tubeless will be the answer for me...time will tell. Doug -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Trigger Shifters?
Today you have won all the internets! Nine speed chains are special. On Mon, Jul 20, 2015 at 4:46 AM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote: Unique is one thing, proprietary is another. Definition of PROPRIETARY 1: one that possesses, owns, or holds exclusive right to something; specifically : proprietor 2: something that is used, produced, or marketed under exclusive legal right of the inventor or maker; specifically : a drug (as a patent medicine) that is protected by secrecy, patent, or copyright against free competition as to name, product, composition, or process of manufacture 9 speed chains are not proprietary under either meaning of the word. On 07/19/2015 11:16 PM, cyclotourist wrote: Nine speed is specially sized. Not the company, the size. Chains from five to eight speed are interchangeable. At nine you need a proprietary-sized one. Same with 10 and 11. On Sun, Jul 19, 2015 at 7:39 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote: Proprietary sized chain? You can buy 9 speed chains from many, many companies. It's as much of a standard as any other size chain. On 07/19/2015 10:34 PM, cyclotourist wrote: Used to love eight speed, but I'm finding that other than a proprietary sized chain, nine is pretty nice. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- Cheers, David Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: San Marcos vs ES
33.3 with a plastic fender. No idea what they were thinking. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Cheviot bridge placement aka: adventures in fender installation
Funny, I actually have a VO Constructeur rear rack hanging unused in my garage -- and I thought about it -- but I don't want (or need) a rear rack ... and while, technically that solves the problem, I'm asking why does the problem exist at all? Ok, I get the idea of having the chain stay a hair forward (but not 1!) to ease wheel removal even if it's a non-issue with vertical drop outs anyway. But as for the seat stay I simply can't see any reason not to have it aligned. I mean really: why necessitate the need for a spacer where there doesn't need to be one in the first place? And btw, my Saluki and Bleriot both have perfect seat and chain stay bridge placement ... NDB, really -- just curious what's behind GP's thinking here ... On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 10:36:58 AM UTC-4, Arthur Mayfield wrote: I've found that I prefer the chain stay mounting to be a bit forward of perfect alignment to ease removing and replacement of the rear wheel. I use a spacer there, but not long enough to bring the fender to an equidistant position with the seat stay and strut placements. It's not really noticeable unless someone is looking for it. To solve your triangulation issue, install a rack that attaches to the fenders, like the VO Constructeur rear rack, for instance. Or, you could simply add a strut and use the rack eyelets. The rear rack, with two mounting points to the fender, would be stiffer. I don't ride with fenders in the dry part of the summer (when I mostly do short, intense, conditioning rides). but I leave the rack mounted to the fenders when I remove them. It takes me all of five minutes to reattach the fenders when I need them or the rack. On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 7:41:56 AM UTC-4, jeffrey kane wrote: We've been using my wife’s new Cheviot (aka: the Mother’s Day Chev) almost non-stop around town since the start of summer … without fenders. I figured I’d get to them once we settled into the season a bit. In the end I went with a pair of Velo Orange Snakeskin 650b/50's to clear the Hetres and while they don't offer a particularly large area of coverage, they are positively handsome! V/O certainly has their fender line dialed in. As others have mentioned here, their hardware is cleanly refined … even the packaging is first rate. What has thrown me for a loop, however, is the uneven spacing of the Chev's seat and chain stay bridges. Normally on a Riv I'd have secured the rear fender at the the seat-stay bridge and just dealt with the horizontal drilling for caliper brakes (my favorite fix is to use a fender daruma as a spacer). But in the case of the of the mixte, the brake bridge is simply too close to the chain-stay bridge to offer much rigidity in terms of triangulation. And anyway, Riv spec’d another bridge, drilled vertically on the seat-stay. So it didn't seem odd to me to attach the fender to the unused seat-stay bridge, right? Except that bridge is over 6mm too high! And just to complicate matters, the chain stay bridge is almost 2.5 cm too far forward! Clearly these bridges were placed without fender alignment in mind (despite the proper drilling for such). I don’t understand the point since you can’t get around the brake bridge spacing either way … it’s not like it’s usable clearance for bigger tires. I’m wondering if anyone else has encountered the same and whether there's an explaination out there somewhere for this oddness? Here's some pic's of my spacing hacks: -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] WAY O.T. ...or is it? (carbon content)
Interesting article about carbon fiber and counterfeit bike products. Hopefully this isn't too un-Riv related, but I thought many of you would find it interesting. It IS another reminder about what makes Rivendell special. http://www.nytimes.com/2015/07/20/sports/cycling/as-tour-de-france-embraces-carbon-fiber-bicycle-makers-struggle-with-counterfeits.html?partner=rssemc=rss_r=2 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Bosco shifter placement
I have my rear/right shifter on the inside of the bar, just past the brake lever on my Handsome XOXO. I put a thumbie on the stem for the front derialer. If I had had two of the same thumbie, I would've put both on the bar, but since I had two different kinds, I figured I'd switch it up. I also have bar end shifters on another bike w/ Boscos, but with the long sweep, bump into them fairly often. I'd go thumbie. Can't sell any of this because it's too dang comfy. Best, Eric On Sunday, July 19, 2015 at 9:37:49 PM UTC-4, DS wrote: For those of you riding bosco bars, where do you place the shifters? Thinking about a cockpit swap on my Sam, and wondering if bar ends or thumbies are the way to go, and if thumbies where to put them? Consequently, if anyone has a bosco cockpit (all or whole) they're interested in selling, let me know ;) I need the bars (looking at the 52), stem (don't know length, I run 8cm on my albastaches), brake levers. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Babyshoe Pass EL's Tubeless on Pacenti SL23's
Where I have been riding...yes, that is a record. But I will reserve final judgment until I get more more tubeless miles. Doug On Mon, Jul 20, 2015, 09:56 Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote: On 07/20/2015 12:46 PM, Doug Williams wrote: The answers are yes, yes, and yes. That's all there is to it. Over 50 flat free miles and counting. Is that like some kind of longevity record? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/q6VHUBT2_pY/unsubscribe . To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: 1UpUSA Bike Rack and Rivs
That's the one! I like how compact it is, maybe because it's just a single, but it looks like the mounting/hinge area is much cleaner than the similar Thule. On Mon, Jul 20, 2015 at 4:00 AM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote: Thank you David, I'm not sure how that got switched, but found the settings under Edit, which doesn't seem particularly intuitive to me at least. I had looked for Settings under More. https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/sets/72157655639570388 The original link should take people to the exact set. Now if I could only figure out why Photos tells me pictures have been uploaded to iCloud but nothing has appeared since I installed 10.10.3 Michael On Sunday, July 19, 2015 at 10:30:29 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: Still can't see it. Your photos end with this one on June 10th: https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/18750929011/in/datetaken/ Guessing you have your uploads defaulted to private. On Sun, Jul 19, 2015 at 5:50 PM, Michael Hechmer mhec...@gmail.com wrote: I've gotten two messages telling me the link didn't work, which is puzzling because it works for me. Here's another paste and copy. https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/albums I seem to be having problems with Flicker lately, and iCloud photos hasan't worked since I upgraded to Yosemety Deacon, I didn't give them an F because they sent the rack in a timely fashion. Otherwise, your right - F for failure to respond. Michael On Saturday, July 18, 2015 at 7:06:12 PM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote: Thanks to everyone who gave me feed back on how various bike racks worked with Rivs, fenders, racks, and wide bars. In the end we bought the 1UpUSA rack and offer this initial review Bottom line - Rack is an A, customer service is gentlemen's C. First the rack. It is as solid and almost as easy to set up as they claim. Once learned it is pretty simple to live with and works well with my large Saluki and Pat's Betty. Pictures here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/sets/72157655639570388 It was easy enough to get the rack onto the car, and adding or removing the second carrier is literally a one minute job. I initially ran into trouble getting it set up to work with fenders on 650B tires and had enough frustration to almost send it back. After some experimenting however I got it rock solid. The rack comes preconfigured to work with 700C tires, without fenders or a rack. I bought a pair of the fender adapters to add to the rear supports but found two problems. The rear carrier pinched, crushed actually, the fender stays before getting tight to the fender and the front attachment didn't quite get to the tire before hitting the fender. I lowered both the front and rear bars so that they would hit the wheels sooner. (you can see in the pictures how the tire stops have been lowered. This worked well in the front but continued to bend the rear fender stays. I went ahead and pushed the rear tight. This held the fender very firmly but allowed the wheel to move across the width of the two vertical wheel holders. When I released the carrier from the wheel I found that the stays immediately bounced back into position. You can see this clearly in one of the photos. I decided to simply add toe straps around the rear wheels, which held them firmly to one side. I took the rig out for a shakedown cruise which included 5 miles of dirt road, 5 miles of bad chip and seal and 5 miles of smooth highway. Pat drove while I sat in the back seat and observed the bikes. Given the amount of weight cantilevered off the back of the car and the roughness of the roads there was plenty of movement of the cars suspension but absolutely none between the bike and carrier nor the carrier and the hitch. The second bike carrier can be removed very easily and the whole rig then folds up out of the way, much better than any Tule, Yakima, or Saris rack that I have seen. So A for easy on and off and A for solidness. A for fitting two complex bikes without any interference. Service. Before ordering I sent two emails to the company seeking clarification of their shipping policy. I never got an answer. As I was working through the fender / rack / 650B set up, I called them. I told the nice lady at the other end of the line that I was having problems with the set up, and before I send this back to you I would like to talk to someone who can speak about these issues. She promised that someone would call me but no one ever has. C for customer service. Michael -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
Re: [RBW] Re: Babyshoe Pass EL's Tubeless on Pacenti SL23's
The answers are yes, yes, and yes. That's all there is to it. Over 50 flat free miles and counting. Doug On Mon, Jul 20, 2015, 09:39 Shoji Takahashi shoji.takaha...@gmail.com wrote: Hi Doug, I'm considering tubeless set up for my Loup Loup Pass EL (650B x 38) on Velocity Synergies. I've had a number of rear-tire flats the past two weeks from glass bits. Puts a damper on the nice ride. For the conversion: did you use the tubeless valves and stan's tape? And then add the Orange Seal via injector? Is that really all there is to it? Thanks for your help/advice, Shoji On Saturday, July 18, 2015 at 1:40:47 PM UTC-4, Doug Williams wrote: I converted my Babyshoe Pass EL's on Pacenti SL23 rims to tubeless yesterday. So my 58cm 650B Homer is running SMOOTH. Everything is great so far, I'll followup with a long term report after some more miles. Some preliminary observations: From what I had read, I was expecting a battle; but seating the tires was actually quite easy. I didn't want water inside the tires, so I used no soapy water or lubricant of any kind. I had an injector for the Orange Seal sealant, so I added the sealant AFTER the tires were seated. In short, the tires were seated while completely dry. Here is how I did it. First, I seated the tires in the normal manner with an inner tube. Then I broke ONE bead and removed the inner tube. I installed the tubeless tire stem. Then I worked my way around the rim and pulled the loose bead outward on the rim to seat it as best as I could. It wasn't fully seated of course, but somewhat close. Then I just pumped the tire up and seated it, didn't even remove the valve core (as some recommend for faster air flow) because my pump fit the valve stem better with the core in. It was actually quite easy to seat the tire with my floor pump! Full disclosure, I have the high volume Lezyne Dirt Floor Drive Pump, but really I think any floor pump would have worked. My daughter seated one of the tires and I seated the other. Easy both times. I think the key is to have one bead completely on and the second bead pulled in close like I did. So far I'm quite satisfied with tubeless. My goal was to avoid having to use a heavy commuter tire because I really love the ride of the Babyshoe Pass EL's. I see no weight savings with tubeless and I don't care. If there is a difference in performance I can't tell. I was already using Schwalbe SV14 light (130 gram) inner tubes and the ride was sweet (when I didn't flat). I'm interested only in flat protection because with all the goat heads and other thorns around here flats were annoyingly common with tubes. I probably used more Orange Seal than necessary, but we will see. I'll probably carry two inner tubes and a patch kit as emergency backup, so again...no weight savings. But if I don't get flats, it will be worth it. I use my bike to commute to work. It is only 5 miles each direction, but I get up early and extend my morning commute somewhere fun to get a 90 minute or so morning ride. I don't want to be fixing a flat out in the boonies at dawn before work. Been there, done that! So hopefully tubeless will be the answer for me...time will tell. Doug -- You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/q6VHUBT2_pY/unsubscribe . To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Babyshoe Pass EL's Tubeless on Pacenti SL23's
On 07/20/2015 12:46 PM, Doug Williams wrote: The answers are yes, yes, and yes. That's all there is to it. Over 50 flat free miles and counting. Is that like some kind of longevity record? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Sam Bliss, my first Riv
Awesome! Amazing as this may sound, it keeps gets better from here! With abandon, Patrick On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 1:52:16 PM UTC-6, Alohashirt wrote: Just got my new Sam Hillborne, and I am in awe! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Sam Bliss, my first Riv
Haha! I've had mine a month now. Have ridden it every single day now. I feel the exact way it's as good as it gets. I wish I could have 2 one for winter w studded tires and one for summer! Enjoy. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Bliss, my first Riv
Have you considered a set of winter wheels? On 07/20/2015 05:02 PM, murphyjrfk wrote: Haha! I've had mine a month now. Have ridden it every single day now. I feel the exact way it's as good as it gets. I wish I could have 2 one for winter w studded tires and one for summer! Enjoy. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: 1UpUSA Bike Rack and Rivs
It can be a singe, double or triple. Each carrier slides over two bolts so they are very quick to put on and off. The two bike set up folds up under my rear door, but since we most often use it for one bike, we decided to leave one in the garage. The base also folds in half so it is pretty simple to put it in a trunk. Michael On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 11:25:45 AM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: That's the one! I like how compact it is, maybe because it's just a single, but it looks like the mounting/hinge area is much cleaner than the similar Thule. On Mon, Jul 20, 2015 at 4:00 AM, Michael Hechmer mhec...@gmail.com javascript: wrote: Thank you David, I'm not sure how that got switched, but found the settings under Edit, which doesn't seem particularly intuitive to me at least. I had looked for Settings under More. https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/sets/72157655639570388 The original link should take people to the exact set. Now if I could only figure out why Photos tells me pictures have been uploaded to iCloud but nothing has appeared since I installed 10.10.3 Michael On Sunday, July 19, 2015 at 10:30:29 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: Still can't see it. Your photos end with this one on June 10th: https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/18750929011/in/datetaken/ Guessing you have your uploads defaulted to private. On Sun, Jul 19, 2015 at 5:50 PM, Michael Hechmer mhec...@gmail.com wrote: I've gotten two messages telling me the link didn't work, which is puzzling because it works for me. Here's another paste and copy. https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/albums I seem to be having problems with Flicker lately, and iCloud photos hasan't worked since I upgraded to Yosemety Deacon, I didn't give them an F because they sent the rack in a timely fashion. Otherwise, your right - F for failure to respond. Michael On Saturday, July 18, 2015 at 7:06:12 PM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote: Thanks to everyone who gave me feed back on how various bike racks worked with Rivs, fenders, racks, and wide bars. In the end we bought the 1UpUSA rack and offer this initial review Bottom line - Rack is an A, customer service is gentlemen's C. First the rack. It is as solid and almost as easy to set up as they claim. Once learned it is pretty simple to live with and works well with my large Saluki and Pat's Betty. Pictures here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/sets/72157655639570388 It was easy enough to get the rack onto the car, and adding or removing the second carrier is literally a one minute job. I initially ran into trouble getting it set up to work with fenders on 650B tires and had enough frustration to almost send it back. After some experimenting however I got it rock solid. The rack comes preconfigured to work with 700C tires, without fenders or a rack. I bought a pair of the fender adapters to add to the rear supports but found two problems. The rear carrier pinched, crushed actually, the fender stays before getting tight to the fender and the front attachment didn't quite get to the tire before hitting the fender. I lowered both the front and rear bars so that they would hit the wheels sooner. (you can see in the pictures how the tire stops have been lowered. This worked well in the front but continued to bend the rear fender stays. I went ahead and pushed the rear tight. This held the fender very firmly but allowed the wheel to move across the width of the two vertical wheel holders. When I released the carrier from the wheel I found that the stays immediately bounced back into position. You can see this clearly in one of the photos. I decided to simply add toe straps around the rear wheels, which held them firmly to one side. I took the rig out for a shakedown cruise which included 5 miles of dirt road, 5 miles of bad chip and seal and 5 miles of smooth highway. Pat drove while I sat in the back seat and observed the bikes. Given the amount of weight cantilevered off the back of the car and the roughness of the roads there was plenty of movement of the cars suspension but absolutely none between the bike and carrier nor the carrier and the hitch. The second bike carrier can be removed very easily and the whole rig then folds up out of the way, much better than any Tule, Yakima, or Saris rack that I have seen. So A for easy on and off and A for solidness. A for fitting two complex bikes without any interference. Service. Before ordering I sent two emails to the company seeking
Re: [RBW] Re: 1UpUSA Bike Rack and Rivs
Michael, Looks like a nice unit. Next time you get it loaded with two bikes would you please take a picture and share?? Thanks, Jon On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 3:55:45 PM UTC-6, Michael Hechmer wrote: It can be a singe, double or triple. Each carrier slides over two bolts so they are very quick to put on and off. The two bike set up folds up under my rear door, but since we most often use it for one bike, we decided to leave one in the garage. The base also folds in half so it is pretty simple to put it in a trunk. Michael On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 11:25:45 AM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: That's the one! I like how compact it is, maybe because it's just a single, but it looks like the mounting/hinge area is much cleaner than the similar Thule. On Mon, Jul 20, 2015 at 4:00 AM, Michael Hechmer mhec...@gmail.com wrote: Thank you David, I'm not sure how that got switched, but found the settings under Edit, which doesn't seem particularly intuitive to me at least. I had looked for Settings under More. https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/sets/72157655639570388 The original link should take people to the exact set. Now if I could only figure out why Photos tells me pictures have been uploaded to iCloud but nothing has appeared since I installed 10.10.3 Michael On Sunday, July 19, 2015 at 10:30:29 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: Still can't see it. Your photos end with this one on June 10th: https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/18750929011/in/datetaken/ Guessing you have your uploads defaulted to private. On Sun, Jul 19, 2015 at 5:50 PM, Michael Hechmer mhec...@gmail.com wrote: I've gotten two messages telling me the link didn't work, which is puzzling because it works for me. Here's another paste and copy. https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/albums I seem to be having problems with Flicker lately, and iCloud photos hasan't worked since I upgraded to Yosemety Deacon, I didn't give them an F because they sent the rack in a timely fashion. Otherwise, your right - F for failure to respond. Michael On Saturday, July 18, 2015 at 7:06:12 PM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote: Thanks to everyone who gave me feed back on how various bike racks worked with Rivs, fenders, racks, and wide bars. In the end we bought the 1UpUSA rack and offer this initial review Bottom line - Rack is an A, customer service is gentlemen's C. First the rack. It is as solid and almost as easy to set up as they claim. Once learned it is pretty simple to live with and works well with my large Saluki and Pat's Betty. Pictures here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/sets/72157655639570388 It was easy enough to get the rack onto the car, and adding or removing the second carrier is literally a one minute job. I initially ran into trouble getting it set up to work with fenders on 650B tires and had enough frustration to almost send it back. After some experimenting however I got it rock solid. The rack comes preconfigured to work with 700C tires, without fenders or a rack. I bought a pair of the fender adapters to add to the rear supports but found two problems. The rear carrier pinched, crushed actually, the fender stays before getting tight to the fender and the front attachment didn't quite get to the tire before hitting the fender. I lowered both the front and rear bars so that they would hit the wheels sooner. (you can see in the pictures how the tire stops have been lowered. This worked well in the front but continued to bend the rear fender stays. I went ahead and pushed the rear tight. This held the fender very firmly but allowed the wheel to move across the width of the two vertical wheel holders. When I released the carrier from the wheel I found that the stays immediately bounced back into position. You can see this clearly in one of the photos. I decided to simply add toe straps around the rear wheels, which held them firmly to one side. I took the rig out for a shakedown cruise which included 5 miles of dirt road, 5 miles of bad chip and seal and 5 miles of smooth highway. Pat drove while I sat in the back seat and observed the bikes. Given the amount of weight cantilevered off the back of the car and the roughness of the roads there was plenty of movement of the cars suspension but absolutely none between the bike and carrier nor the carrier and the hitch. The second bike carrier can be removed very easily and the whole rig then folds up out of the way, much better than any Tule, Yakima, or Saris rack
[RBW] Re: Sam Bliss, my first Riv
Congratulations! I ride mine all over the place... road, trail, 1 miles or 40 miles, with all kinds of handlebars (da Vinci splitters are wonderful). I've done S24Os and S48Os hauling 50 pounds (when I weighed almost 300 pounds myself), I commute, I shop, I cruise along and just enjoy being out and about. It's really, really good for all of it. I've had one for 5 years (and two for 3 years) and still am not over how comfortable and pleasant ot ride the Hillborne is. It remains stunningly fun. You should expect to enjoy it quite a bit for years. Yours, Thomas Lynn Skean On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 2:52:16 PM UTC-5, Alohashirt wrote: Just got my new Sam Hillborne, and I am in awe! There just aren't enough superlatives in the English language to describe how agile, comfortable, and commanding it feels to ride this masterpiece. I've been riding for more than 40 years, and have not felt this level of joy since I rode my first new bike-- the three-speed I got for my ninth birthday. Since then, there have been several beastly mountain bikes and plenty of pricey Euro bikes to pass through my life. But nothing has made me smile quite like Sam. The guys at Mt. Airy/College Park Bikes (Maryland) and the patient folks at Riv really went out of their way to help me get the ride of my life. Apologies if all this gushing is boring-- but I just had to post it for the one group of people most likely to understand! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: New Rivendellian, or at least Rivendell-ish full-body workout
I should add that the Pro Races are *no more prone to goathead flats *than my Kojaks, my City Slickers, my Fatboys, and less so than my 559X32 mm Paselas. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] New Rivendellian, or at least Rivendell-ish full-body workout
I've been riding the gofast, 650C X 22 mm, 180 gram Pro Races and all, and great fun it has been -- except that, after months of good luck, I've been plagued by goathead punctures. Two on Saturday within 1.5 miles of each other -- first the front, then the rear; then just now, the rear. Of course, I learned how to fix punctures as a very wee lad at the feet of roadside bicycle wallahs in N Delhi, India, and 1 flat per 20 mile ride is, in my admittedly off-curve book, acceptable; and I've learned to look on such repairs as benefits rather than defects. Cyclists are notorious for weak upper body strength, and this exactly fits their fitness needs. The beauty of this scheme is that, the more flats you get, the more workout. The trick is to ride a high pressure tire (at least 80 psi) and to use a minipump (I use, for this bike, the Lezyne Pressure Drive). 200 strokes to as full pressure as you need, or indeed, can get; and the last 50 are hard, while the last 20 or so are the heart of the workout. You can substitute a Silca Imperial, which is less efficient and gives a more difficult workout while adding thousands of style points. Or, to make it diabolically hard, use a relatively high volume tire and a primitive type of minipump, and pump it to max pressure per the sidewall number -- say, a Specialized Fatboy pumped to 110 psi with an old Blackburn Airstick -- 400 strokes and you are only halfway there. Ask me why I know -- and why I tried to reach 110 on a 35 mm tire. You heard it here first. Patrick Moore, who, quite seriously, hopes eventually to find a right-size HpX and have it painted to match his frame, in ABQ, NM. -- Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews. By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching. Other professional writing services. http://www.resumespecialties.com/ www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/ Patrick Moore Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Vereinigte Staaten * *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu *Kinei hos eromenon. It moves as the being-loved. *Aristotle *The Love that moves the Sun and all the other stars. *Dante -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Sam Bliss, my first Riv
Just got my new Sam Hillborne, and I am in awe! There just aren't enough superlatives in the English language to describe how agile, comfortable, and commanding it feels to ride this masterpiece. I've been riding for more than 40 years, and have not felt this level of joy since I rode my first new bike-- the three-speed I got for my ninth birthday. Since then, there have been several beastly mountain bikes and plenty of pricey Euro bikes to pass through my life. But nothing has made me smile quite like Sam. The guys at Mt. Airy/College Park Bikes (Maryland) and the patient folks at Riv really went out of their way to help me get the ride of my life. Apologies if all this gushing is boring-- but I just had to post it for the one group of people most likely to understand! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Sam Bliss, my first Riv
Aloha, It's marvelous isn't it? Design, aesthetics, and buiild quality reveal themselves... and it's all yours. :-) Will On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 2:52:16 PM UTC-5, Alohashirt wrote: Just got my new Sam Hillborne, and I am in awe! There just aren't enough superlatives in the English language to describe how agile, comfortable, and commanding it feels to ride this masterpiece. I've been riding for more than 40 years, and have not felt this level of joy since I rode my first new bike-- the three-speed I got for my ninth birthday. Since then, there have been several beastly mountain bikes and plenty of pricey Euro bikes to pass through my life. But nothing has made me smile quite like Sam. The guys at Mt. Airy/College Park Bikes (Maryland) and the patient folks at Riv really went out of their way to help me get the ride of my life. Apologies if all this gushing is boring-- but I just had to post it for the one group of people most likely to understand! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: New Rivendellian, or at least Rivendell-ish full-body workout
Basically, other than tank treads, isn't /everything/ prone to goathead flats? On 07/20/2015 03:17 PM, Patrick Moore wrote: I should add that the Pro Races are /no more prone to goathead flats /than my Kojaks, my City Slickers, my Fatboys, and less so than my 559X32 mm Paselas. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com mailto:rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: I can't get the shifting dialed in
New DuraAce bar ends did it. I'm at my lunch stop on a hilly 90 mile ride, lots of shifting and no problems. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: tandem captain advice?
Eunice, so far everything you have written is correct. It certainly complicates matters having a pilot who is shorter than the stoker. I would add this. The pilot needs to straddle the bike with the brakes locked while the stoker gets clipped in. When Pat is ready she lowers the left pedal for me and I clip in, then we raise the left pedal to a power position, and I ask if she is ready, if she agrees, I say lets go, release the brakes and push off, usually two steps before trying to clip into the right pedal which is now down. It takes a little while to feel smooth about it, so don't sweat it, just do it. When we stop at an intersection, I put one foot down and Pat stays clipped in. When we are both dismounting, I first put both feet on the ground and lock the brakes while she gets off. Then I get over the tube and she puts the kickstand up. I always announce when I'm going to shift, especially a front shift, and when I'm going to brake. I also announce coasting and restarting pedaling. She tells me when she wants a higher or lower cadence or gear and when she wants to coast. I yell pot hole when I can't miss it. This means stop pedaling and lift your touche. Pat is left handed and I am right handed so we sometimes get crossed up in dismounting. We try to avoid describing these moments as, you did it wrong. So glad to read that your getting a chance to tandem again. It's so much fun. We had friends visiting from Switzerland last week and i took mom 8 year old son out for a spin. They both loved it. Michael Member, Human Race. On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 8:10:21 PM UTC-4, Eunice Chang wrote: This might be somewhat OT, but I thought I would ask the few of you who are tandem captains what advice you would give to a new captain. It has been a while... A charity ride is coming up this Saturday, and it's at night, and since I'm night-blind, a friend of mine has offered to captain the tandem. I fixed one up, and we rode around a few times. Here's what I know: On starting: -captain gets on first, feet on ground -stoker gets on, puts feet on pedal -captain starts On stopping: -captain puts feet down first? -stoker puts feet down, and gets off -captain gets off On turning: both lean, right? Part of the problem is that my friend is shorter than I am by 2-4 inches, which may influence her handling. We have no problem riding around, just not so great on starting and stopping. Thanks in advance for any advice! -E. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: 1UpUSA Bike Rack and Rivs
Jon, I hope you can see the bikes loaded here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/sets/72157655639570388 On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 6:02:50 PM UTC-4, Jon Dukeman in the foothills of Colorado wrote: Michael, Looks like a nice unit. Next time you get it loaded with two bikes would you please take a picture and share?? Thanks, Jon On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 3:55:45 PM UTC-6, Michael Hechmer wrote: It can be a singe, double or triple. Each carrier slides over two bolts so they are very quick to put on and off. The two bike set up folds up under my rear door, but since we most often use it for one bike, we decided to leave one in the garage. The base also folds in half so it is pretty simple to put it in a trunk. Michael On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 11:25:45 AM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: That's the one! I like how compact it is, maybe because it's just a single, but it looks like the mounting/hinge area is much cleaner than the similar Thule. On Mon, Jul 20, 2015 at 4:00 AM, Michael Hechmer mhec...@gmail.com wrote: Thank you David, I'm not sure how that got switched, but found the settings under Edit, which doesn't seem particularly intuitive to me at least. I had looked for Settings under More. https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/sets/72157655639570388 The original link should take people to the exact set. Now if I could only figure out why Photos tells me pictures have been uploaded to iCloud but nothing has appeared since I installed 10.10.3 Michael On Sunday, July 19, 2015 at 10:30:29 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: Still can't see it. Your photos end with this one on June 10th: https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/18750929011/in/datetaken/ Guessing you have your uploads defaulted to private. On Sun, Jul 19, 2015 at 5:50 PM, Michael Hechmer mhec...@gmail.com wrote: I've gotten two messages telling me the link didn't work, which is puzzling because it works for me. Here's another paste and copy. https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/albums I seem to be having problems with Flicker lately, and iCloud photos hasan't worked since I upgraded to Yosemety Deacon, I didn't give them an F because they sent the rack in a timely fashion. Otherwise, your right - F for failure to respond. Michael On Saturday, July 18, 2015 at 7:06:12 PM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote: Thanks to everyone who gave me feed back on how various bike racks worked with Rivs, fenders, racks, and wide bars. In the end we bought the 1UpUSA rack and offer this initial review Bottom line - Rack is an A, customer service is gentlemen's C. First the rack. It is as solid and almost as easy to set up as they claim. Once learned it is pretty simple to live with and works well with my large Saluki and Pat's Betty. Pictures here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/sets/72157655639570388 It was easy enough to get the rack onto the car, and adding or removing the second carrier is literally a one minute job. I initially ran into trouble getting it set up to work with fenders on 650B tires and had enough frustration to almost send it back. After some experimenting however I got it rock solid. The rack comes preconfigured to work with 700C tires, without fenders or a rack. I bought a pair of the fender adapters to add to the rear supports but found two problems. The rear carrier pinched, crushed actually, the fender stays before getting tight to the fender and the front attachment didn't quite get to the tire before hitting the fender. I lowered both the front and rear bars so that they would hit the wheels sooner. (you can see in the pictures how the tire stops have been lowered. This worked well in the front but continued to bend the rear fender stays. I went ahead and pushed the rear tight. This held the fender very firmly but allowed the wheel to move across the width of the two vertical wheel holders. When I released the carrier from the wheel I found that the stays immediately bounced back into position. You can see this clearly in one of the photos. I decided to simply add toe straps around the rear wheels, which held them firmly to one side. I took the rig out for a shakedown cruise which included 5 miles of dirt road, 5 miles of bad chip and seal and 5 miles of smooth highway. Pat drove while I sat in the back seat and observed the bikes. Given the amount of weight cantilevered off the back of the car and the roughness of the roads there was plenty of movement of the cars suspension but absolutely none between the
[RBW] Re: More Sam Love--and do you ride your Riv through winter?
I ride through Colorado winters, but that's low humidity generally. Though this year's spring was wet and humid (and summer so far also). I usually just use a stiff hand broom brush to brush off the drive train when it's below freezing. Above freezing, I just let it drip met/dry, then brush off the mud. https://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/16937815641/in/dateposted-public/ With abandon, Patrick -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: FS: Brooks Champion Flyer Special Saddle, Honey Brown
Saddle is Sold! Thanks, Keith On Sunday, July 19, 2015 at 9:42:56 PM UTC-4, Keith Muller wrote: Some more stuff I'm looking to sell. I have a Honey Brown Brooks Champion Flyer Special Saddle. Saddle is in great shape, just a little scuff(character) on the right side of the saddle. Includes cover and wrench. $95 shipped. PM me with questions, offers, or payment information. Thanks, Keith -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: FS: Sugino XD2 Crankset, Shimano XT Front Rear Derailleurs
All Items are sold! Thanks, Keith -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Sam Bliss, my first Riv
Pictures please! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Babyshoe Pass EL's Tubeless on Pacenti SL23's
Jim, I put the sealant into the tire after installing the tubeless valve stem and seating both beads of the tire on the rim. I used an injector to put the sealant in through the valve stem. Doug On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 11:59:48 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote: It is still not clear to me at what point you put the sealant (Stan's, Orange Seal, or similar) in the tire. You mention installing the tubeless valve stem, but you don't mention adding sealant. Or are you saying you didn't use any sealant? On Mon, Jul 20, 2015 at 1:42 PM, Doug Williams sal...@minbaritm.com javascript: wrote: I seated both beads using a n inner tube. Then I broke one bead to remove the inner tube and install the tubeless valve. On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 11:22:22 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote: It wasn't clear to me at which step you put the sealant in. After the tubeless tire stem, or before? On Sat, Jul 18, 2015 at 12:40 PM, Doug Williams sal...@minbaritm.com wrote: I converted my Babyshoe Pass EL's on Pacenti SL23 rims to tubeless yesterday. So my 58cm 650B Homer is running SMOOTH. Everything is great so far, I'll followup with a long term report after some more miles. Some preliminary observations: From what I had read, I was expecting a battle; but seating the tires was actually quite easy. I didn't want water inside the tires, so I used no soapy water or lubricant of any kind. I had an injector for the Orange Seal sealant, so I added the sealant AFTER the tires were seated. In short, the tires were seated while completely dry. Here is how I did it. First, I seated the tires in the normal manner with an inner tube. Then I broke ONE bead and removed the inner tube. I installed the tubeless tire stem. Then I worked my way around the rim and pulled the loose bead outward on the rim to seat it as best as I could. It wasn't fully seated of course, but somewhat close. Then I just pumped the tire up and seated it, didn't even remove the valve core (as some recommend for faster air flow) because my pump fit the valve stem better with the core in. It was actually quite easy to seat the tire with my floor pump! Full disclosure, I have the high volume Lezyne Dirt Floor Drive Pump, but really I think any floor pump would have worked. My daughter seated one of the tires and I seated the other. Easy both times. I think the key is to have one bead completely on and the second bead pulled in close like I did. So far I'm quite satisfied with tubeless. My goal was to avoid having to use a heavy commuter tire because I really love the ride of the Babyshoe Pass EL's. I see no weight savings with tubeless and I don't care. If there is a difference in performance I can't tell. I was already using Schwalbe SV14 light (130 gram) inner tubes and the ride was sweet (when I didn't flat). I'm interested only in flat protection because with all the goat heads and other thorns around here flats were annoyingly common with tubes. I probably used more Orange Seal than necessary, but we will see. I'll probably carry two inner tubes and a patch kit as emergency backup, so again...no weight savings. But if I don't get flats, it will be worth it. I use my bike to commute to work. It is only 5 miles each direction, but I get up early and extend my morning commute somewhere fun to get a 90 minute or so morning ride. I don't want to be fixing a flat out in the boonies at dawn before work. Been there, done that! So hopefully tubeless will be the answer for me...time will tell. Doug -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more
Re: [RBW] Re: Babyshoe Pass EL's Tubeless on Pacenti SL23's
I log my miles with Ride With GPS and I use the same program to log maintenance, including flats. Checking my records, I was averaging a flat every 42.75 miles. I have now gone 65.6 miles without a flat and I am riding the same thorn prone routes. If anything, I'm riding over more thorns because I used to shy away from areas that I knew were full of thorns, but now I'm riding right through them. So...nice; but too early to give a meaningful and statistically significant review of my tubeless setup. Stay tuned as I bike more miles. :-) Doug On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 9:59:57 AM UTC-7, Doug Williams wrote: Where I have been riding...yes, that is a record. But I will reserve final judgment until I get more more tubeless miles. Doug On Mon, Jul 20, 2015, 09:56 Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote: On 07/20/2015 12:46 PM, Doug Williams wrote: The answers are yes, yes, and yes. That's all there is to it. Over 50 flat free miles and counting. Is that like some kind of longevity record? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/q6VHUBT2_pY/unsubscribe . To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Babyshoe Pass EL's Tubeless on Pacenti SL23's
IME, this depends on the pressure. Stan's in 622X28 tube at 60 psi = invincible flat protection. Stan's in 622X 50 tube at 20 psi = very vincible flat protection. Stan's in 622X 50 tubeless Furious Fred = flat free paradise. Patrick Moore, with some 3500 miles under his treads to prove his assertions in ABQ, Goatheadland, NM. On Mon, Jul 20, 2015 at 4:27 PM, Doug Williams salg...@minbaritm.com wrote: Shoji, From what I have read, putting the sealant in the tube is somewhat effective in reducing flats, but it is not anywhere as good as going tubeless because the thin inner tube just won't seal as well as a thicker tire. Still worth trying, but don't expect a flat-free miracle. Doug On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 11:49:34 AM UTC-7, Shoji Takahashi wrote: Thanks, Joe. I'm thinking of putting Stans or Orange into the tube. I've got Schwalbe tubes, and I think they have a removable core. Shouldn't be too hard to put in some sealant. Downsides of that? Some added weight? :) shoji On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 2:26:07 PM UTC-4, joe b. wrote: Proceed with caution, Shoji. I don't think synergies are tubeless ready (i.e. not designed to keep a tire on without a tube). Some people have had success just putting the sealant in the tube, though. Best, joe broach pdx or Caveat lector. Sent from a phone. On Jul 20, 2015 9:39 AM, Shoji Takahashi shoji.t...@gmail.com wrote: Hi Doug, I'm considering tubeless set up for my Loup Loup Pass EL (650B x 38) on Velocity Synergies. I've had a number of rear-tire flats the past two weeks from glass bits. Puts a damper on the nice ride. For the conversion: did you use the tubeless valves and stan's tape? And then add the Orange Seal via injector? Is that really all there is to it? Thanks for your help/advice, Shoji On Saturday, July 18, 2015 at 1:40:47 PM UTC-4, Doug Williams wrote: I converted my Babyshoe Pass EL's on Pacenti SL23 rims to tubeless yesterday. So my 58cm 650B Homer is running SMOOTH. Everything is great so far, I'll followup with a long term report after some more miles. Some preliminary observations: From what I had read, I was expecting a battle; but seating the tires was actually quite easy. I didn't want water inside the tires, so I used no soapy water or lubricant of any kind. I had an injector for the Orange Seal sealant, so I added the sealant AFTER the tires were seated. In short, the tires were seated while completely dry. Here is how I did it. First, I seated the tires in the normal manner with an inner tube. Then I broke ONE bead and removed the inner tube. I installed the tubeless tire stem. Then I worked my way around the rim and pulled the loose bead outward on the rim to seat it as best as I could. It wasn't fully seated of course, but somewhat close. Then I just pumped the tire up and seated it, didn't even remove the valve core (as some recommend for faster air flow) because my pump fit the valve stem better with the core in. It was actually quite easy to seat the tire with my floor pump! Full disclosure, I have the high volume Lezyne Dirt Floor Drive Pump, but really I think any floor pump would have worked. My daughter seated one of the tires and I seated the other. Easy both times. I think the key is to have one bead completely on and the second bead pulled in close like I did. So far I'm quite satisfied with tubeless. My goal was to avoid having to use a heavy commuter tire because I really love the ride of the Babyshoe Pass EL's. I see no weight savings with tubeless and I don't care. If there is a difference in performance I can't tell. I was already using Schwalbe SV14 light (130 gram) inner tubes and the ride was sweet (when I didn't flat). I'm interested only in flat protection because with all the goat heads and other thorns around here flats were annoyingly common with tubes. I probably used more Orange Seal than necessary, but we will see. I'll probably carry two inner tubes and a patch kit as emergency backup, so again...no weight savings. But if I don't get flats, it will be worth it. I use my bike to commute to work. It is only 5 miles each direction, but I get up early and extend my morning commute somewhere fun to get a 90 minute or so morning ride. I don't want to be fixing a flat out in the boonies at dawn before work. Been there, done that! So hopefully tubeless will be the answer for me...time will tell. Doug -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners
Re: [RBW] Re: Babyshoe Pass EL's Tubeless on Pacenti SL23's
Oh, and once again: you don't need removable valve cores; and you don't need injectors. Sealant works with non-removable cores (no, not through a hole in the tube) and using the 2 oz bottle. Ask me how I know. Patrick fixing flats since 1965 Moore On Mon, Jul 20, 2015 at 4:41 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote: IME, this depends on the pressure. Stan's in 622X28 tube at 60 psi = invincible flat protection. Stan's in 622X 50 tube at 20 psi = very vincible flat protection. Stan's in 622X 50 tubeless Furious Fred = flat free paradise. Patrick Moore, with some 3500 miles under his treads to prove his assertions in ABQ, Goatheadland, NM. On Mon, Jul 20, 2015 at 4:27 PM, Doug Williams salg...@minbaritm.com wrote: Shoji, From what I have read, putting the sealant in the tube is somewhat effective in reducing flats, but it is not anywhere as good as going tubeless because the thin inner tube just won't seal as well as a thicker tire. Still worth trying, but don't expect a flat-free miracle. Doug On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 11:49:34 AM UTC-7, Shoji Takahashi wrote: Thanks, Joe. I'm thinking of putting Stans or Orange into the tube. I've got Schwalbe tubes, and I think they have a removable core. Shouldn't be too hard to put in some sealant. Downsides of that? Some added weight? :) shoji On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 2:26:07 PM UTC-4, joe b. wrote: Proceed with caution, Shoji. I don't think synergies are tubeless ready (i.e. not designed to keep a tire on without a tube). Some people have had success just putting the sealant in the tube, though. Best, joe broach pdx or Caveat lector. Sent from a phone. On Jul 20, 2015 9:39 AM, Shoji Takahashi shoji.t...@gmail.com wrote: Hi Doug, I'm considering tubeless set up for my Loup Loup Pass EL (650B x 38) on Velocity Synergies. I've had a number of rear-tire flats the past two weeks from glass bits. Puts a damper on the nice ride. For the conversion: did you use the tubeless valves and stan's tape? And then add the Orange Seal via injector? Is that really all there is to it? Thanks for your help/advice, Shoji On Saturday, July 18, 2015 at 1:40:47 PM UTC-4, Doug Williams wrote: I converted my Babyshoe Pass EL's on Pacenti SL23 rims to tubeless yesterday. So my 58cm 650B Homer is running SMOOTH. Everything is great so far, I'll followup with a long term report after some more miles. Some preliminary observations: From what I had read, I was expecting a battle; but seating the tires was actually quite easy. I didn't want water inside the tires, so I used no soapy water or lubricant of any kind. I had an injector for the Orange Seal sealant, so I added the sealant AFTER the tires were seated. In short, the tires were seated while completely dry. Here is how I did it. First, I seated the tires in the normal manner with an inner tube. Then I broke ONE bead and removed the inner tube. I installed the tubeless tire stem. Then I worked my way around the rim and pulled the loose bead outward on the rim to seat it as best as I could. It wasn't fully seated of course, but somewhat close. Then I just pumped the tire up and seated it, didn't even remove the valve core (as some recommend for faster air flow) because my pump fit the valve stem better with the core in. It was actually quite easy to seat the tire with my floor pump! Full disclosure, I have the high volume Lezyne Dirt Floor Drive Pump, but really I think any floor pump would have worked. My daughter seated one of the tires and I seated the other. Easy both times. I think the key is to have one bead completely on and the second bead pulled in close like I did. So far I'm quite satisfied with tubeless. My goal was to avoid having to use a heavy commuter tire because I really love the ride of the Babyshoe Pass EL's. I see no weight savings with tubeless and I don't care. If there is a difference in performance I can't tell. I was already using Schwalbe SV14 light (130 gram) inner tubes and the ride was sweet (when I didn't flat). I'm interested only in flat protection because with all the goat heads and other thorns around here flats were annoyingly common with tubes. I probably used more Orange Seal than necessary, but we will see. I'll probably carry two inner tubes and a patch kit as emergency backup, so again...no weight savings. But if I don't get flats, it will be worth it. I use my bike to commute to work. It is only 5 miles each direction, but I get up early and extend my morning commute somewhere fun to get a 90 minute or so morning ride. I don't want to be fixing a flat out in the boonies at dawn before work. Been there, done that! So hopefully tubeless will be the answer for me...time will tell. Doug -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
Re: [RBW] Re: Babyshoe Pass EL's Tubeless on Pacenti SL23's
Shoji, From what I have read, putting the sealant in the tube is somewhat effective in reducing flats, but it is not anywhere as good as going tubeless because the thin inner tube just won't seal as well as a thicker tire. Still worth trying, but don't expect a flat-free miracle. Doug On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 11:49:34 AM UTC-7, Shoji Takahashi wrote: Thanks, Joe. I'm thinking of putting Stans or Orange into the tube. I've got Schwalbe tubes, and I think they have a removable core. Shouldn't be too hard to put in some sealant. Downsides of that? Some added weight? :) shoji On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 2:26:07 PM UTC-4, joe b. wrote: Proceed with caution, Shoji. I don't think synergies are tubeless ready (i.e. not designed to keep a tire on without a tube). Some people have had success just putting the sealant in the tube, though. Best, joe broach pdx or Caveat lector. Sent from a phone. On Jul 20, 2015 9:39 AM, Shoji Takahashi shoji.t...@gmail.com wrote: Hi Doug, I'm considering tubeless set up for my Loup Loup Pass EL (650B x 38) on Velocity Synergies. I've had a number of rear-tire flats the past two weeks from glass bits. Puts a damper on the nice ride. For the conversion: did you use the tubeless valves and stan's tape? And then add the Orange Seal via injector? Is that really all there is to it? Thanks for your help/advice, Shoji On Saturday, July 18, 2015 at 1:40:47 PM UTC-4, Doug Williams wrote: I converted my Babyshoe Pass EL's on Pacenti SL23 rims to tubeless yesterday. So my 58cm 650B Homer is running SMOOTH. Everything is great so far, I'll followup with a long term report after some more miles. Some preliminary observations: From what I had read, I was expecting a battle; but seating the tires was actually quite easy. I didn't want water inside the tires, so I used no soapy water or lubricant of any kind. I had an injector for the Orange Seal sealant, so I added the sealant AFTER the tires were seated. In short, the tires were seated while completely dry. Here is how I did it. First, I seated the tires in the normal manner with an inner tube. Then I broke ONE bead and removed the inner tube. I installed the tubeless tire stem. Then I worked my way around the rim and pulled the loose bead outward on the rim to seat it as best as I could. It wasn't fully seated of course, but somewhat close. Then I just pumped the tire up and seated it, didn't even remove the valve core (as some recommend for faster air flow) because my pump fit the valve stem better with the core in. It was actually quite easy to seat the tire with my floor pump! Full disclosure, I have the high volume Lezyne Dirt Floor Drive Pump, but really I think any floor pump would have worked. My daughter seated one of the tires and I seated the other. Easy both times. I think the key is to have one bead completely on and the second bead pulled in close like I did. So far I'm quite satisfied with tubeless. My goal was to avoid having to use a heavy commuter tire because I really love the ride of the Babyshoe Pass EL's. I see no weight savings with tubeless and I don't care. If there is a difference in performance I can't tell. I was already using Schwalbe SV14 light (130 gram) inner tubes and the ride was sweet (when I didn't flat). I'm interested only in flat protection because with all the goat heads and other thorns around here flats were annoyingly common with tubes. I probably used more Orange Seal than necessary, but we will see. I'll probably carry two inner tubes and a patch kit as emergency backup, so again...no weight savings. But if I don't get flats, it will be worth it. I use my bike to commute to work. It is only 5 miles each direction, but I get up early and extend my morning commute somewhere fun to get a 90 minute or so morning ride. I don't want to be fixing a flat out in the boonies at dawn before work. Been there, done that! So hopefully tubeless will be the answer for me...time will tell. Doug -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Babyshoe Pass EL's Tubeless on Pacenti SL23's
For me, that would be a longevity record. (Almost.) Except when using Stan's. On Mon, Jul 20, 2015 at 10:55 AM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote: On 07/20/2015 12:46 PM, Doug Williams wrote: The answers are yes, yes, and yes. That's all there is to it. Over 50 flat free miles and counting. Is that like some kind of longevity record? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews. By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching. Other professional writing services. http://www.resumespecialties.com/ www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/ Patrick Moore Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Vereinigte Staaten * *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu *Kinei hos eromenon. It moves as the being-loved. *Aristotle *The Love that moves the Sun and all the other stars. *Dante -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Bosco shifter placement
My Riv has Albas and Silver bar ends. My Bosco bars are on my non-Riv bike. I use (gasp) twist shifters. They have been trouble free and ergonomically sweet. Doug On Sunday, July 19, 2015 at 6:37:49 PM UTC-7, DS wrote: For those of you riding bosco bars, where do you place the shifters? Thinking about a cockpit swap on my Sam, and wondering if bar ends or thumbies are the way to go, and if thumbies where to put them? Consequently, if anyone has a bosco cockpit (all or whole) they're interested in selling, let me know ;) I need the bars (looking at the 52), stem (don't know length, I run 8cm on my albastaches), brake levers. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] tandem captain advice?
This might be somewhat OT, but I thought I would ask the few of you who are tandem captains what advice you would give to a new captain. It has been a while... A charity ride is coming up this Saturday, and it's at night, and since I'm night-blind, a friend of mine has offered to captain the tandem. I fixed one up, and we rode around a few times. Here's what I know: On starting: -captain gets on first, feet on ground -stoker gets on, puts feet on pedal -captain starts On stopping: -captain puts feet down first? -stoker puts feet down, and gets off -captain gets off On turning: both lean, right? Part of the problem is that my friend is shorter than I am by 2-4 inches, which may influence her handling. We have no problem riding around, just not so great on starting and stopping. Thanks in advance for any advice! -E. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] More Sam Love--and do you ride your Riv through winter?
Wonderful build to my eye. The sage Sams are my favorite. Maybe I'll use that color on a repaint one day. I hope you find a way to ride it in winter. If not, you can send it down here and I'll ride it for you Chris Johnson Sanger, Texas -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: 1UpUSA Bike Rack and Rivs
Michael, All I could see was the rack folded up..no bikes. no problem..I was just curious.Looks like a nice rack. Jon On Mon, Jul 20, 2015 at 7:40 PM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote: Jon, I hope you can see the bikes loaded here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/sets/72157655639570388 On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 6:02:50 PM UTC-4, Jon Dukeman in the foothills of Colorado wrote: Michael, Looks like a nice unit. Next time you get it loaded with two bikes would you please take a picture and share?? Thanks, Jon On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 3:55:45 PM UTC-6, Michael Hechmer wrote: It can be a singe, double or triple. Each carrier slides over two bolts so they are very quick to put on and off. The two bike set up folds up under my rear door, but since we most often use it for one bike, we decided to leave one in the garage. The base also folds in half so it is pretty simple to put it in a trunk. Michael On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 11:25:45 AM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: That's the one! I like how compact it is, maybe because it's just a single, but it looks like the mounting/hinge area is much cleaner than the similar Thule. On Mon, Jul 20, 2015 at 4:00 AM, Michael Hechmer mhec...@gmail.com wrote: Thank you David, I'm not sure how that got switched, but found the settings under Edit, which doesn't seem particularly intuitive to me at least. I had looked for Settings under More. https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/sets/72157655639570388 The original link should take people to the exact set. Now if I could only figure out why Photos tells me pictures have been uploaded to iCloud but nothing has appeared since I installed 10.10.3 Michael On Sunday, July 19, 2015 at 10:30:29 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: Still can't see it. Your photos end with this one on June 10th: https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/18750929011/in/datetaken/ Guessing you have your uploads defaulted to private. On Sun, Jul 19, 2015 at 5:50 PM, Michael Hechmer mhec...@gmail.com wrote: I've gotten two messages telling me the link didn't work, which is puzzling because it works for me. Here's another paste and copy. https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/albums I seem to be having problems with Flicker lately, and iCloud photos hasan't worked since I upgraded to Yosemety Deacon, I didn't give them an F because they sent the rack in a timely fashion. Otherwise, your right - F for failure to respond. Michael On Saturday, July 18, 2015 at 7:06:12 PM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote: Thanks to everyone who gave me feed back on how various bike racks worked with Rivs, fenders, racks, and wide bars. In the end we bought the 1UpUSA rack and offer this initial review Bottom line - Rack is an A, customer service is gentlemen's C. First the rack. It is as solid and almost as easy to set up as they claim. Once learned it is pretty simple to live with and works well with my large Saluki and Pat's Betty. Pictures here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/25287678@N08/sets/72157655639570388 It was easy enough to get the rack onto the car, and adding or removing the second carrier is literally a one minute job. I initially ran into trouble getting it set up to work with fenders on 650B tires and had enough frustration to almost send it back. After some experimenting however I got it rock solid. The rack comes preconfigured to work with 700C tires, without fenders or a rack. I bought a pair of the fender adapters to add to the rear supports but found two problems. The rear carrier pinched, crushed actually, the fender stays before getting tight to the fender and the front attachment didn't quite get to the tire before hitting the fender. I lowered both the front and rear bars so that they would hit the wheels sooner. (you can see in the pictures how the tire stops have been lowered. This worked well in the front but continued to bend the rear fender stays. I went ahead and pushed the rear tight. This held the fender very firmly but allowed the wheel to move across the width of the two vertical wheel holders. When I released the carrier from the wheel I found that the stays immediately bounced back into position. You can see this clearly in one of the photos. I decided to simply add toe straps around the rear wheels, which held them firmly to one side. I took the rig out for a shakedown cruise which included 5 miles of dirt road, 5 miles of bad chip and seal and 5 miles of smooth highway. Pat drove while I sat in the back seat and observed the bikes. Given the amount of weight cantilevered off the back of the car and the roughness of the roads there was plenty of
[RBW] Re: tandem captain advice?
Michael's advice is all good. In my case, both my wife and I have ridden horses, so we _always_ mount and dismount on the left side of the bike. Another helpful hint for the captain ... if you can sit in the top tube while straddling, and push back against the nose of the saddle, it helps stabilize the bike while the stoker mounts or dismounts. I always put both feet on the ground at full stops, and the stoker only takes feet off the pedals if I announce a dismount. In the corners, the stoker should try to stay in line with the captain, trying not to lean in more than the captain or to resist the lean the captain initiates. This is one of those areas where the stoker really has to develop trust in the captain, and the captain has to earn that trust with smooth, safe riding and clear communication of the upcoming turn direction and severity. The stoker should give appropriate hand signals, and get both hands back on the bars prior to leaning into the corner. Finally, my better half would say the very most important thing for the captain is to announce bumps. An experienced single rider unweights the saddle without even thinking about it, and the tandem captain has 50+ inch chain stays to absorb the bumps. The stoker, on the other hand, can't see the bumps coming and has to deal with the inertia of the entire rig hitting her in the coccyx. So, call the bumps in time for both of you to stop pedaling and unweight the saddles. It'll spare your wheels some misery, too. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: tandem captain advice?
On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 10:00:35 PM UTC-5, RonaTD wrote: if you can sit in the top tube while straddling, On, not in. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Sam Bliss, my first Riv
Congratulations on your new Sam. And welcome! Evan -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: tandem captain advice?
This is rad!!! Good advice so far. I presume you'll be going slow to start, so the aero advantage of larger captain won't matter for initial rides. As long as she can straddle the bike and hold it steady, that's all you need. Captain hugely need to call out bumps, shifts, coasts, and Punch it, Chewie. We dismount to left, but that's from singles and avoiding chain tattoos. Always start off with a Right foot up check and go. As stoker, please keep your feet on the pedals at stops. Unless dismounting, stoker never needs to put feet down IMHO. Nothing throws me off more at stops or intersections... bad things can happen. Clipless helps out a bit with that. The team will learn when to lean together, I never found that a big problem or learning curve. Be patient with the captain!!! Hope it turns out to be a great ride! On Mon, Jul 20, 2015 at 8:01 PM, RonaTD teddur...@gmail.com wrote: On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 10:00:35 PM UTC-5, RonaTD wrote: if you can sit in the top tube while straddling, On, not in. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- Cheers, David Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: More Sam Love--and do you ride your Riv through winter?
I rode my sam through vermont winters. I had this same dilemma, was thinking about finding a winter beater, then figured why ride a bike i don't love in the winter? I frame-savered the frame, wiped it off after riding, and then gave it a deeper clean every once in a while. i would say it probably made the drivetrain age faster, but the frame and everything else is fine. good luck! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: tandem captain advice?
Having only had the Mashley Tandem for so long I know just as much I can read. This was a great read. From Bill McCready of Santana Tandems. http://www.precisiontandems.com/artpropermethod.htm On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 5:10:21 PM UTC-7, Eunice Chang wrote: This might be somewhat OT, but I thought I would ask the few of you who are tandem captains what advice you would give to a new captain. It has been a while... A charity ride is coming up this Saturday, and it's at night, and since I'm night-blind, a friend of mine has offered to captain the tandem. I fixed one up, and we rode around a few times. Here's what I know: On starting: -captain gets on first, feet on ground -stoker gets on, puts feet on pedal -captain starts On stopping: -captain puts feet down first? -stoker puts feet down, and gets off -captain gets off On turning: both lean, right? Part of the problem is that my friend is shorter than I am by 2-4 inches, which may influence her handling. We have no problem riding around, just not so great on starting and stopping. Thanks in advance for any advice! -E. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] PBP Training Weekend
Not on a Riv, but I did choose a classic lugged steel Singer for a weekend of riding in Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, and Marin counties. 300 miles in two days, and photos prove my camera was there: https://flic.kr/s/aHskgCrLS8 https://flic.kr/s/aHskgCrLS8 --Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com www.campyonly.com campyonlyguy.blogspot.com -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] More Sam Love--and do you ride your Riv through winter?
No complaints on that build! What do you not like about the Synergies? On Mon, Jul 20, 2015 at 7:50 PM, Pondero cj.spin...@gmail.com wrote: Wonderful build to my eye. The sage Sams are my favorite. Maybe I'll use that color on a repaint one day. I hope you find a way to ride it in winter. If not, you can send it down here and I'll ride it for you Chris Johnson Sanger, Texas -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- Cheers, David Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: PBP Training Weekend
Good luck with PBP Eric! Looking forward to seeing pictures of randofriends sleeping. in ditches On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 10:07:51 PM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote: Not on a Riv, but I did choose a classic lugged steel Singer for a weekend of riding in Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, and Marin counties. 300 miles in two days, and photos prove my camera was there: https://flic.kr/s/aHskgCrLS8 --Eric Norris campyo...@me.com javascript: www.campyonly.com campyonlyguy.blogspot.com -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
